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Harley-Davidson CHROME FRONT BRAKE CALIPER KIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 25-11-2010

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See Figure 1. Refer to FRONT BRAKE CALIPERS: REMOVAL in the Service Manual, and follow the instructions to: a. remove the banjo bolt with bleeder valve (2) and both gaskets (4), and b. detach the front brake line (3) from the caliper. c. Discard the gaskets. For this installation, the banjo bolt (2) can also be discarded. d. Remove the caliper mounting bolts (1). Lift the brake caliper assembly upward to remove it from the brake disc. -J03529 1 of 4
2 5 3 4 1 is04104 1. Mounting bolt (2) 2. Banjo bolt with bleeder valve 3. Brake line 4. Gasket (2) 5. Screen cover Figure 1. Remove Existing Caliper 2. Remove the brake pads from the caliper. Refer to BRAKE PADS AND DISCS: BRAKE PAD REPLACEMENT, FRONT BRAKE CALIPER in the Service Manual. a. Remove the screen cover (5) from the caliper. b. See Figure 2. Note the orientation of the brake pads, and remove the retaining clip (2), pad pin (1) and brake pads from the caliper. Also note the position of the brake pads at removal, so they can be installed back in the same location. 3. Repeat the procedure for the opposite-side caliper. 2 1 is04105 1. Pad pin 2. Retaining clip Figure 2. Front Caliper Pad Pin Pad and Pin Inspection 1. Refer to BRAKE PADS AND DISCS: INSPECTION in the Service Manual, and follow the instructions given to inspect the brake pads. If any front brake pad is worn to 0.5 mm (0.020 inch) or less above the backing plate, replace all four front pads. 2. Inspect the brake disc thickness, lateral runout and warpage. If necessary, follow the instructions in the Service Manual under FRONT WHEEL to replace the discs. Chrome Caliper Installation 1. See Figure 3. Obtain the correct-side new chrome caliper assembly from the kit. Remove the screen cover (5), retaining clip and pad pin (4) from the caliper. NOTE Do not remove the shipping plug protecting the brake line threaded hole until ready to install the brake line. 2. Place the caliper over the brake disc with the brake line threaded hole (protected by a shipping plug) facing upward. 3. See Figure 1. Obtain two of the brake caliper mounting bolts (1), removed earlier. Loosely install both bolts through the front fork and into the chrome caliper. Alternately tighten the mounting bolts to 38.0-51.5 Nm (28-38 ft-lbs) . 4. Install the brake pads removed earlier or, if necessary, new brake pads into the caliper. 5. See Figure 2. Install the new pad pin (1) through the inner and outer brake pads. Tighten to 8.5-11.5 Nm (75-100 in- lbs ) . 6. Install the new retaining clip (2) onto the pad pin. NOTE Ensure that the screen cover is oriented with the single tab end up, and the double tab end down. 7. See Figure 1. Install the new screen cover (5) onto the caliper.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON REAR BRAKE CALIPER KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 21-02-2011

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INSTALLATION Prepare the Motorcycle for Service To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect negative (-) battery cable before proceeding. (00048a) 1. Follow the Service Manual instructions to disconnect the negative (-) battery cable. Remove Rear Brake Caliper Remove the Brake Pads 1. For models equipped with saddlebags: Remove the right-side saddlebag. Refer to the SADDLEBAGS section of the Service Manual. 2. Remove the rear master cylinder reservoir cover. 3. Pry both the inside and outside pads away from the brake disc and toward the caliper assembly to push the caliper pistons back into their bores. Use steady pressure to prevent scoring the brake disc. Pry between the pads and the brake disc. 4. When the pistons are fully retracted into their bores, pull the pad pins out to allow the pads to drop from the caliper assembly. Note the pads’ original orientation for installa- tion. 5. Install the cover on the rear master cylinder reservoir. NOTE Place a container under the brake caliper to catch brake fluid released when removing the brake line from the caliper. 6. Remove the banjo bolt fastening the rear brake line to the stock rear brake caliper. Save the banjo bolt for brake caliper installation and discard the two steel/rubber gas- kets. Remove the Stock Rear Brake Caliper 1. Apply isopropyl alcohol to the rubber bumper on the brake caliper to ease removal. 2. Lift the stock rear brake caliper toward the front of the motorcycle. The notch in the caliper must clear the weldment on the swing arm. 3. Remove the caliper from anchor weldment on rear swingarm. Inspect Pad and Pins 1. Inspect the brake pads. If friction material above the backing plate on either pad is 0.040 in. (1.02 mm) thick or less, replace the set. Follow the instructions in the Service Manual. 2. Inspect pad pins for wear and grooving. If wear is more than 0.015 in. (0.38 mm), replace both pins. 3. Inspect the brake disc and, if necessary, follow the instructions in the Service Manual to replace the brake disc. Install the Rear Brake Caliper NOTE Pay close attention to all warnings, cautions, and torque specifications in this instruction sheet and in the service manual when installing this rear brake caliper. NOTE Apply isopropyl alcohol to the rubber bumper for ease of installation. 1. See Figure 1. Position the caliper (1) between the brake disc and the rear fork. The weldment on the fork should fit between the notch and rubber bumper on the caliper. Verify that the full length of the rubber bumper contacts the underside of the weldment

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Harley Davidson Sportster 4 Piston Rear Brake Caliper installation Manual

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 02-04-2012

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Installing Rear Caliper – Sportster Models Removing The Stock Brakes SPORTSTER REAR BRAKE SYSTEM 84 & UP MODELS The basic steps are the same to install a PM rear brake caliper kit on any of the late model Harley Davidson “swingarm” style motorcycles; all require the removal of the rear wheel. Using a suitable lift, raise the motorcycle high enough off the ground to allow you to remove the rear wheel assembly. PHOTO 2 W a r n i n g Center the motorcycle on the lift so that it will not fall while you are working on it. Photo 2: Remove the rear brake caliper assembly by unscrewing the 2 caliper mounting bolts that go through the caliper into the caliper mounting bracket. Lift the caliper up and off the mounting bracket and brake rotor, move the caliper back out of your working area. Don’t remove the brake line from the caliper yet; you will do this just before you are ready to hook it up to the new caliper. The brake pads are held into the caliper mounting bracket by 2 spring clips; slide the brake pads out of the mounting bracket and remove the retaining springs. PHOTO 3 Remove Cotter pin and rear axle nut, slide rear axle completely out. Photo 3: Remove nut from Right rear shock and rotate belt guard up. Slide belt off of pulley and roll rear wheel back 6 – 8″. Photo 4: Remove original caliper bracket from swingarm

HARLEY DAVIDSON VRSC CHROME BRAKE CALIPER INSERT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 01-02-2011

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This kit fits 2006 and later VRSC model motorcycles.INSTALLATION 1. See Figure 1. Press in the upper tab (3) with a small screwdriver and remove the stock brake caliper insert (1) from the brake caliper (2). NOTE When installing the front caliper insert, position the single prong tab to the top of the caliper. When installing the rear caliper insert, position the single prong tap toward the front of the caliper. 2. Install the the chrome brake caliper insert into the brake caliper with the caliper oriented in the same manner as the stock insert. 1 2 3 is00627 1. Brake caliper insert 2. Brake caliper 3. Single prong tab Figure 1. Front Brake Caliper (VRSCR Model Shown

HONDA NRX RUNE CALIPER COVERS INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Starting on the right side hold the cover in place over the brake caliper. See photo (1), note how the spring when installed wraps around the bleeder screw (1A) at the front of the cover. See photo (2), note how the spring at the rear of the cover is routed behind the brake pad retaining pin. Using one of the springs supplied hook both ends of the spring into the holes at the front edge of the cover. Clean the face of the caliper (area marked “Nissin”) with rubbing alcohol. Peel the backing from the adhesive tape on the inside of the cover. Carefully position the cover in place aligning it with the suspension arm and being sure it is seated flat against the caliper. Press firmly to secure the tape to the caliper. Next stretch the spring over the bleeder as shown in photo (1A). At the rear of the cover route the spring behind the brake pad retaining pin as shown in photo (2A). Hook the spring into the upper hole then using a piece of fine wire or string (dental floss works good) hook onto the open end of the spring as shown in photo (3). Pull the hook into the hole in the cover. Remove the wire or string. Check again to see that the cover is seated on the caliper and that the springs are secure and not interfering with the moving parts of the brakes. 2. Repeat on the left side caliper. Rear Caliper Cover 1. Set the cover in place over the caliper. Notice that you need to hook the top of the cover over the caliper and the location of the two small spring holes at the front and back of the cover. The long spring supplied will attach to the front hole, pass between the caliper housing and the backside of the brake pad, then attach to the rear hole

How to Replacing Rear Main Seal 1

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 24-11-2010

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The next day I woke up early and drank lots of coffee before going out to the garage. I knew I had two distinct problems confronting me. First, I would have to purchase an impact tool in order to loosen the six bolts holding the clutch together. Also, I would have to purchase at least three 8mm by 50mm bolts and nuts in order to prevent the clutch from exploding when the six bolts were unscrewed. For the third time in two days, I went to Sears and asked the salesman, (who I now I knew as Art,) where I could find an impact tool. He did not know what it was I was looking for, but he asked another employee and soon I had the tool as well as a 6mm Allen socket. Unfortunately, the Allen socket only came in 3/8″ drive, and the impact tool only came in 1/2″ drive. Thinking quickly, I purchased a 1/2″ to 3/8″ adapter, as well as a 3lb. dead- blow hammer. On the way home, I stopped at a Chief Auto Parts to buy the bolts I would need. The closest size they had were 8mm by 40mm, which was nearly 10mm too short. I was unsure whether the clutch cover bolts were coarse thread or fine thread, so I bought three of each, along with corresponding nuts. Finally, around 11 o’clock in the morning, I was back at the garage ready to work. I prepared the impact tool and placed the adapter and the Allen socket on it. I began to hammer on the end of the tool, trying to loosen each of the six bolts. None of them seemed to move, even though it seemed the impact tool was turning. Finally, I put the Allen socket on the breaker bar and found that all of the bolts had actually come loose. The tension from the clutch spring made it nearly impossible to see, however. I removed three of the bolts in a triangular pattern. Into these empty holes I threaded the fine- thread 40mm bolts with nuts attached and tightened them evenly. I was now able to remove the remaining Allen bolts. By slowly turning and loosening the nuts evenly on the 40mm bolts, I relieved the pressure from the clutch spring until the cover plate was free. I removed the cover plate, the clutch, the pressure plate, and finally the clutch spring. I had already marked each of the elements with Whiteout to insure that they would fit together the same way on installation. Apparently, this is essential as the flywheel could be rendered out-of-balance if the clutch components are not installed correctly. The flywheel itself was now exposed. I could see the five bolts that attached it to the crankshaft. I now used a tool I had fabricated. Although the manual describes two possible tools that can be fabricated, I found a piece of metal that resembled the tool and decided to use it. Unfortunately it was not strong enough and broke. I turned and looked at my workbench, and noticed a bracket which I had previously fabricated for mounting a mirror on my Vespa. The piece of steel was extremely strong and was already pre-drilled with correct-sized holes. It fit perfectly, so I placed it over the exposed bolt which protruded from the case, and placed the other end on one of the 40mm bolts, which I then bolted into the flywheel itself. I used the breaker bar again and removed the five bolts. The flywheel came loose after inserting two more 40mm bolts and tugging on them evenly

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HARLEY DAVIDSON DYNA AND SPORTSTER Chrome Front Wheel Spacers INSTALLATION ISNTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Block motorcycle underneath frame so front wheel is raised off the ground. 2. See Figure 1. Remove the upper (1) and lower (2) brake caliper mounting bolts and brake caliper(s) (3). Support caliper(s) using a rubber bungee cord. Be careful not to scratch fender paint. NOTES Do not operate front brake lever with the front wheel removed or the caliper piston may be forced out of piston bores. Reseating the piston requires disassembly of the caliper. Prior to removal, make note of existing left and right spacer location. The new spacers will be installed in the locations. 3. See Figure 3. On left side of wheel, remove axle nut (D), lockwasher (E) and washer (F). Perform the following: 4. Sportster and Dyna (except FXDWG) See Figure 2. Loosen the pinch bolt nut (1) and pull the the axle (2) free. Remove wheel and spacers. Leave bearing(s) in place. Discard spacers. 3 1 2 is04469 1. Brake caliper mounting bolt, long (top) 2. Brake caliper mounting bolt, short (bottom) 3. Brake caliper Figure 1. Caliper Mounting Bolts (Left Side) Dyna and Sportster 3 1 2 is04470 1. Pinch bolt nut 2. Axle 3. Pinch bolt Figure 2. Front Wheel Mounting (Dyna and Sportster Except FXDWG-Right Side) 5. See Figure 3. Obtain the new right (1) and left (2) chrome spacers from kit and install. 6. Apply a light coat of ANTI-SEIZE LUBRICANT (Harley- Davidson Part Number 98960-97) to the axle.
7. Place wheel between sliders and install axle. Verify that axle spacers on right and left side are properly installed. 8. See Figure 3. Install the washer (F), lockwasher (E) and nut (D) onto threaded end of axle (A). 9. In order to properly align the front fork, perform the fol- lowing: a. On the right side of the wheel, insert a 7/16 inch drill bit through the hole in the axle. While holding axle stationary, tighten axle nut to 50-55 ft-lbs (61.0-74.6 Nm) . b. Pull fork leg so that it just contacts drill bit. Tighten according to the following: c. Refer to Figure 2. Tighten the Axle Pinch Bolt Nut to 25-30 ft-lbs (33.9-40.7 Nm) . d. Remove drill bit from axle hole. 10. Follow instructions in Service Manual and install brake caliper to the sliders noting the following: •Loosely install long bolt to the top hole on fork leg. Install the short mounting bolt to the bottom hole and tighten to 28-38 ft-lb (38.0-51.5 Nm) . •Final tighten top bolt to 28-38 ft-lbs (38.0-51.5 Nm) . 11. Repeat Step 10 to install brake caliper on opposite side of wheel. After servicing brakes and before moving motorcycle, pump brakes to build brake system pressure. Insufficient pressure can adversely affect brake performance, which could result in death or serious injury. (00279a) 12. Pump brake lever to move pistons out until they contact both brake pads. Verify piston location against pads

Harley-Davidson FL Caliper Mount Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 26-02-2012

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Motolight® Caliper mounts are designed to be mounted on the brake caliper mounting boss. Before removing the caliper bolt make certain you have the manufacturer’s recommended torque settings for your make, model and year. 2 . Disconnect your battery. Never work on the electrical system of a motorcycle while the battery is connected. If you’re not sure how, check your owner’s manual, or consider having your dealer install the lights. 3 . Motolights®, like any light, get hot when operating. Do not touch any part of the housing when the Motolights® are in operation and for at least 15 minutes after they have been turned off. 4 . If you are transferring your Motolights® to another bike or have obtained the lights secondhand, it is VERY IMPORTANT that you contact us at 800-567-8346 or 513-474-7530 for new caliper bolts of proper grade and size. Step 1. Unpack the Motolight® system . Take this chance to familiarize yourself with everything. Below is the list of included items: Item # Quantity Description 1 (2) º” x 20 x 5/8″ stainless steel socket head cap screws 2 (2) Housings, aluminum, assembled with lens, lamp and leads 3 (2) Mounting blocks, aluminum, left and right 4 (2) Caliper replacement bolts 5 (2) Lock washers 6 (1) Motolight wiring harness with relay and 20 amp fuse 7 incl. Special Harley auxiliary plug connector in wiring harness (included) 8 (2) Motolight decals (1 helmet size, 1 regular) 9 (1) Aiming tube (cardboard ring) 10 (1) 3/16″ hex wrench 11 (1) Pin wrench (for standard lamp retaining rings-not required for knurled/grooved rings) 12 (15) Cable ties, long and short

HONDA VT-600 Front Wheel Adapter kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 10-11-2010

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1. Using a 6mm Allen wrench, loosen the 2 front axle pinch bolts on the right side of the lower fork leg. Loosen bolts 4 or 5 turns. 2. Using a 17mm Allen wrench, slightly loosen the front axle from the right side of the bike. Having the front wheel on the ground will help you in loosening the axle. Do not remove the axle at this time! 3. Loosen and remove the speedometer cable from the back of the speedometer on your handlebars. Pull the speedometer cable all the way out of the front fork. Remove the cable from the speedometer drive on your front wheel (note the position of the connection as it will be similar on your new drive installation). This speedometer cable or speedometer drive will not be needed on your new wheel installation. 4. Block the back wheel to prevent the bike from rolling backwards, and raise the motorcycle’s front wheel off of the ground, so the wheel spins freely. You can do this with a motorcycle lift placed under the front portion of the motorcycle frame. Contact Scootworks to purchase a lift if you don’t have access to one. Ensure the bike is stable and will not fall before proceeding further! Scootworks, Inc. 3 5. Using the 17mm Allen wrench, finish loosening the front axle until it is completely free from the left side of the lower fork. Hold onto the front wheel and slowly remove the axle from the front fork. Be careful not to let the wheel drop. Having a helper hold the wheel for you as you remove the axle will ease the removal. Slide the brake rotor out of the calipers. NOTE: be careful not to operate the front brake controls with the brake rotor removed from the calipers. 6. With the wheel removed from the front forks, lay the wheel on a padded or cushioned surface with the brake rotor facing upwards. Using a 6mm Allen wrench, remove the 5 Allen bolts from the brake rotor. (The bolts are sometimes installed with loctite, and may require heating with a small torch to loosen the loctite). Remove the brake rotor from the wheel. Place the wheel to the side. Clean up the bolts as you will reuse them later. 7. Take your new custom wheel that you will be installing on your bike and place it on a cushioned or padded surface to prevent scratching. Turn it so that the side where the brake rotor attaches is facing upward. 8. Ensure the brake rotor mounting holes on the wheel are clean and free of oil or grease. Clean with alcohol if needed, then let dry. Place your new brake rotor adapter plate onto the wheel with the flat side against the wheel. Apply a small amount of medium strength (blue) loctite on each of the 5/16″ Allen bolts supplied with your kit and install through the new rotor adapter plate and into the wheel. Tighten with a 3/16″ Allen wrench until snug. When all bolts are installed, tighten in a star pattern, and torque to 25-30 ft. lbs. 9. Install your brake rotor onto the new brake rotor adapter using the original bolts you removed in step 6. Apply a small amount of medium strength loctite to each bolt and install through the brake rotor into the new brake rotor adapter. Tighten in a star pattern, and torque to 25-30 ft. lbs. 10. It is now time to install your new wheel/rotor adapter onto your bike. It is easiest to accomplish this with a helper, as it takes some coordination to get the wheel, brake rotor and spacers into place. Apply a thin coat of grease to the axle. Lift the front wheel into place between the front forks, aligning the brake rotor into the caliper. The caliper floats from left to right and can be moved into the proper position. If the caliper is closed, pry the brake pads apart so that the rotor will slide into the caliper.

1999-2001 DUCATI Monster INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Ducati) by admin on 25-10-2010

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It is essential to use Blue Loc-tite on all nuts and bolts. Remove any other steering stabilizers. 2) Cover the tank with an old sweatshirt or protective device so you don’t scratch it. 3) General concept for this mount: The new key cover is the anchor point for the stabilizer, so it must be fitted correctly as per the instructions below. The base of the new key cover must sit flush all the way around to provide the support needed. The bolt lengths are critical, so be sure you read the instructions carefully so you know which bolts go in which spots! 4) Remove the (4) 8x85mm Allen bolts that hold your handlebars tight. There are plastic plugs in the tops of these bolts that must be removed before you can access the Allen head. Replace the stock top barclamp with the one provided in the kit. 5) Tighten the 4 bolts evenly so the gaps between upper and lower perches, front to back, are even. 6) Remove the (2) 6x12mm Allen bolts and the plastic key cover that covers your key switch. 7) Fit the new billet aluminum key cover over the key switch and be sure the new cover is sitting down flush all the way around on the frame. It needs to be touching the frame to function properly. We’ve machined this part to fit precisely on the bike but each bike can vary slightly due to machining variations from the Ducati Factory. The new key cover should center itself by locating on the 2 spacer/nuts underneath. You might need to loosen the 2 bolts on the underside of the frame to allow those spacer/nuts to find their centering point on our key cover. 8) Note: Your stock key switch itself has a casting knub near its base that could restrict our new cover from sitting all the way down flush. We’ve machined a clearance notch inside our part for this knub to fit into, but it is possible it could vary from bike to bike, which might require a bit more clearance filing. Be sure the key cover is sitting down flush against the frame. 9) We’ve machined the key cover to fit over a 20mm spacer nut / .805″. If for some reason the stock “spacer/nuts” are too tall, you may have to file them slightly to allow the Billet key cover to sit down flush and touch the frame. 10) Once the key switch cover is flush against the frame, all the way around it’s base, retighten the bolts that hold the spacer/nuts secure from the under side of the frame using Loc-tite. Reinstall the (2) 6x12mm stock key cover bolts to a maximum of 6-ft/lbs . The stock key cover bolts are designed to engage 6mm of thread in the spacer nut. Do not be tempted to use any longer bolts than 6x12mm or they can prematurely bottom out which will keep the key cover from tightening. Shorter than 6×12 or if the cover is not flush, makes it possible to damage the threads. Double check these key-cover bolts after your first ride, as they may loosen after initial movement from the damper

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