camshaft 94 suzuki intruder 1400 performance

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SUZUKI 1400/ 800 INTRUDER TURN SIGNAL RELOCATION INSTALLATION AND CLEANING INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 09-11-2010

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1. Refer to Figure 1. 2. Remove seat. Safety: disconnect battery prior to all wiring modifications LeatherLyke 510 5/1/2009 3. Disconnect wires to turn signals. 4. Remove turn signals and retain hardware for reinstallation. Observe and mark “left” and “right” for reinstallation. Information: Do not remove license plate bracket . 5. Remove license plate. Turn signal bracket must be oriented with flange (side with only 2 holes) on top. 6. Install turn signal bracket behind license plate bracket and license plate using 6 x 35mm pan phil machine screws for the 800 or 6 x 20mm pan phil machine screws for the 1400, 1/4″ flat washers, and 6mm locknuts. Insert black spacer spool between license plate bracket and turn signal bracket. 7. Mount turn signals directly to turn signal bracket using 6 x 10mm hex cap screws and star lock washer. Information: Observe all color-coding of wires and splice one wire at a time. 8. Cut each turn signal wires three inches from end and splice 10 inches of supplied wire. Secure wires to inner fender clips. 9. Follow route of tail light wires and connect wires into harness. 10. Secure wires together behind license plate bracket with tie wrap. 11. Connect battery and test turn signals for function. 12. Install seat. Information: Not all license plate mounts are grounded. In some cases, it may be necessary to run a ground wire to turn signal bracket. WARNING: States may have minimum width requirements on motorcycle turn- signals, so check your local laws. LeatherLyke 510 5/1/2009 SADDLEBAG INSTALLATION 13. Refer to Figure 2. Information: Cover plates are pressed into strut. 14. Remove round cover plate at end of fender mount strut on right side. 15. Remove nut on right rear and replace with 1.2″ hex adapter. If hex adapter is less than flush with the outside of both fender struts, add a 5/16″ flat washer. 16. Assemble 5 x 30mm flathead screw and 5mm mounting spool with chamfer on spool under head of screw. Insert assembly thru 1 1/4″ fender washer for the 1400 or 1″ for the 800. 17. Install spool assembly into previously installed 1.2” hex adapter. Information: Do not remove washer on shock absorber. Hex adapter will protrude 1/4″ beyond fender strut. 18. Remove round cover plate over right rear shock, remove shock absorber nut and install .75″ hex adapter. 19. Assemble 5 x 30mm flathead screw, mounting spool and cup washer with chamfer on spool under head of screw. 20. Install spool assembly into previously installed hex adapter. 21. Insert 5/8” finishing plug into old turn signal hole on right side. 22. Repeat procedures on opposite side

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Harley Davidson Big Twin EVO Engines Edelbrock Performer-Plus Camshaft , Performer RPM Camshaft , & Performer RPM Camshaft INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 03-03-2012

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Disconnect the battery. Secure the motorcycle on a suitable stand with the rear wheel off the ground. Remove components necessary for easy access to rocker covers, pushrod covers, and gear case cover, i.e., exhaust system, gas tank, air cleaner, foot rest, etc. Remove spark plugs. 2. Remove top and middle sections of rocker boxes, then rotate engine so both valves are closed on the cylinder head being worked on (put transmission in high gear and move rear wheel to slowly rotate engine). Remove the two 5/16″ bolts nearest the rocker arm shafts (keep all shafts, rocker arms, and pushrods in order so they can be installed in their original position). Remove the pushrod covers and pushrods. NOTE: The use of adjustable time-saver pushrods will simplify installation. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for installation of those parts. 3. It is not necessary to remove the tappet guides if you use a cam installation tool such as Crane #9-0020 to hold the tappets in place during cam installation. If you remove the tappet guides, you must use a tappet block alignment tool such as Crane #9- 0021 to re-install the tappet guides. Tappets can be held up in place during removal of guides by using U-shaped piece of safety wire or paper clip hooked to the tappets. 4. Remove ignition covers on gearcase cover by drilling out rivets to gain access to sensor plate. Remove the inner cover, sensor plate and rotor. NOTE: For re-installation, use new rivets H-D #8699 or drill and tap for 10-32 screws. 5. Remove the gearcase cover screws and remove cover while holding end of cam inward. Now remove the camshaft, spacing washer and thrust plate

Suzuki INTRUDER 1400 SLIP-ON EXHAUST SYSTEM Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 22-12-2010

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REMOVING THE STOCK EXHAUST SYSTEM 1. Loosenthe mounting bolt and pinch clamp on both left and right hand mufflers. 2. Loosenthe clamp on the crossover tube, located between the two mufflers. 3. Remove the two nuts that mount the front head pipe flange to the cylinder head. 4. Remove the two nuts that mount the rear head pipe flange to the cylinder head. 5. Remove the head pipes using a twisting motion to break the seal at the muffler and to clear the cylinder head. Note : If the exhaust coupler gaskets did not remain in the mufflers, remove them from the head pipes at this time. These coupler gaskets will not be reused in your new exhaust system. 6. Remove the mounting bolt from the left hand muffler. Remove the muffler, again using a twisting motion to seperate the crossover tube and set the muffler aside. (Save the stock mounting hardware for reuse). 7. Repeat step #6 on the the right hand muffler. Set the muffler aside. INSTALLING YOUR NEW VANCE & HINES EXHAUST SYSTEM 1. Check the stock exhaust gaskets to be sure they are in good shape. If you have any doubts as to their condition, replace them. 2. Reinstall the stock head pipes to the engine. Note : Leave the flange nuts loose at this time. 3. Remove the mufflers from their boxes. There are a left and right hand muffler in this system. To define the difference between the left and right mufflers, check the bracket that is welded to the back side of the muffler. Each muffler is stamped with it’s own part number. Part # D500 is the RIGHT muffler and Part # D550 is the LEFTmuffler. 4. Install a three hole mounting bracket to each of the mufflers. Slide one dog bone shaped nut plate under the bracket that is welded to the backside of each muffler. Attach the mounting bracket using two of the 5/16 flange head bolts (supplied), leave them loose at this time. Note : Each muffler bracket has a number stamped on it, #179 bracket is for the left hand muffler and #180 is for the right hand muffler. When the brackets are mounted correctly, the end of the bracket with the single hole should point to the inlet end (small end) of the muffler. Refer to figure 1.

Honda XR600/ XR650L Camshaft Installation and removal Instructions

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 05-12-2011

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Remove the tappet covers. Remove the crankshaft cap and timing hole cap on the left engine case cover. Remove the spark plug. Rotate the engine in a counter clockwise direction. Position the engine at true top dead center (TDC) using the mark on the flywheel. True top dead center occurs when both the intake and exhaust valve are closed when the piston is at TDC. This is technically the end of the compression stroke and the beginning of the power stroke. The “artificial” TDC is during the overlap when both the intake and exhaust valves would be open. Since the rocker arms are located in the valve cover on an XR600, true TDC occurs when the cam lobes are pointed downward when the piston is at TDC. Remove the cylinder head cover. Warning, do not drop the locating dowels into the cam chain cavity. There are two dowels, one on either side of the cover. Remove and discard the gasket. Note the positioning of the cam lobes, this will help during installation of your new Hot Cams camshaft. Note also the location of the sealed bearing on the end of the camshaft and the direction in which it is facing. Loosen the bolts that hold the camshaft sprocket. Remove the lower camshaft sprocket bolt first, it will be necessary to rotate the engine. Rotate the engine back to TDC. Release the spring tension on the cam chain tensioner by lifting the end of the spring out of its hole in the tensioner block. A spring tool is a good method. Be careful not to scar the cylinder head’s gasket surface for the cylinder head cover. Remove the allen bolt that holds the end of the tensioner block shaft
just to the inside of the tensioner block. Note the location of the tensioner block shaft cap ridge. Using a pair of pliers pull the shaft out by grasping the ridge and using a clockwise rotation of the shaft while pulling outward. Pull the tensioner block upwards, out of the cylinder head. Remove the top camshaft sprocket bolt. Pull the sprocket off the camshaft but maintain upward tension, do not allow the chain to sag, it is possible for the chain to “slip” on the bottom sprocket of the crankshaft and change the cam timing. Remove the camshaft. Remove the cam bearings. Set the stock camshaft with the auto-decompression aside. It is not possible to use the auto-
decompression on the Hot Cams so do not attempt to re-install. Use a manual decompression. Install the bearings onto the new Hot Cam

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Yamaha YZ250F 2001-2080 Wiseco High Performance Camshaft INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 15-01-2012

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Wiseco’s new Camshafts are made from premium materials, state-of-the-art forgings, machined to exact tolerances, and specifically engineered for high performance and maximum durability. Brought to you by one of the most trusted names in the industry… Wiseco. Wiseco Cam- blue OEM Cam- red Wiseco’s new high-performance camshafts for the Yamaha YZ250F produce 3% horsepower and 3% torque gain over the stock OEM camshaft across the entire RPM range.

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Kawasaki KVF650/ 700, KSV 700 Camshaft Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 29-04-2012

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Liberally apply assembly lube to every surface of the camshaft. Install the camshaft into the cylinder head (the lobes should be pointed down) and align the decompressor shaft dowels with the weight arms. Install one of the camshaft sprocket holder bolts and tighten to less than finger tight, you should be able to move the camshaft very slightly back and forth, roll the crank over until the other bolt hole is exposed and insert the sprocket bolt and tighten to less than finger tight. Install the cam chain tensioner assembly, do not install the spring, spring dowel, washer, and bolt. Using the spring from the cam chain tensioner very slowly push the tensioner shaft in until the cam chain slack has just been taken out, this is witnessed by the very slight lifting of the opposite end of the cam out of the cylinder head cam journal, do not over tighten the cam chain at this point, if you do, remove the tensioner assembly and retract the plunger again and start over. (If it stays too tight it will stretch the cam chain prematurely and cause cam sprocket damage when the engine is assembled) Roll the camshaft toward the back of the machine (clockwise) loading the sprocket bolts against the back of the sprocket bolt holes, while holding the camshaft in that direction, tighten the sprocket mounting bolt to 14 ft/lb of torque. Rotate the engine in the opposite direction that you rotated it earlier and align the TDC mark, tighten the other sprocket-mounting bolt to 14 ft/lb of torque. Verify the cam timing and crankshaft TDC marks are in alignment

Harley Davidson engine modification

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 02-11-2010

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Looking for high performance engine specifications for your Harley- Davidson motorcycle? Need to know what high performance equipment provides the best performance at the lowest costs for your H-D. Here you can look at performance modifications with the dyno runs of many different engine combinations, so you can pick your own equipment, horsepower rating and dollars to spend. An incremental approach to engine development has provided some good results on many engines. Find out what combination of carburetor, camshaft, exhaust systems, ignition systems, head work, pistons and the other high performance components work well. There are tests of some equipment that did not work well. Know what works and what does not. Compare the results of your current bike to those seen here. Are you getting the performance you paid for? If you have had success in your engine development program, send a picture of the bike and your performance results (dyno sheets or time slips) to the V -Twin Café for publication. The V -Twin Café is always looking for good articles on motorcycle performance work. If you write performance oriented articles, contact us. Twin Cam 88 and 95 cubic inches Twin Cam Engines from Harley-Davidson have a good design and some nice upgrades available from the local Dealer including a 95 cubic inch big bore kit. What can you expect from this engine? Here are some engine configurations that have been tested. 45 to 50 HP Stock Evolution Engines are the starting point for all the modifications. The only way to validate what the performance gain was for any change is to have dyno runs before and after. These are the before runs of several bikes. 55 to 65 HP Up to $750 Stage One Evolution Harley-Davidson engines involve no internal changes made to the engine. All modifications are made by changing or modifications to external components on the engine. These components include air cleaners, carburetors, exhaust systems and ignition systems. No special tools or training is required to perform stage one modifications.

DUCATI 900 SuperSport Engine performance And technical specification

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Filed Under (Ducati) by admin on 11-11-2010

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Displacement: 904 cc Bore: 92 mm Stroke: 68 mm Max. power: 75 hp at 7000 rpm Max. torque: 80 Nm at 5000 rpm Max. velocity: 220 km/h Pass-By noise: 82 dB(A) Homologation: 1992 Main Targets of Development Today’s motorcycle market requests more powerful engines, however, legislative noise and pollution limits are becoming more severe. In order to reduce development cost only small modifications were allowed. Entirely new designs of technical components (i.e. cylinder head) had to be avoided. In additon, the complete development had to be finished in a relatively short time of about three months. The most important targets of development were: better engine performance: – more max. power: +5 hp – more torque at low rpm lower noise emission: -2 dB(A) 80 dB(A) (89/235/CEE) change from carburettor to fuel injection system Figure 1, Ducati 900 SS
3 Engine performance calculation with WAVE A complete model of the new engine concept (fuel injection) with actual intake- and exhaust geometry allowed us to set up a reference engine-cycle-simulation model for further optimization. The most important parameter-variation during the cycle-studies to improve volumetric efficiency were: intake duct length valve timing constant or even lower exhaust backpressure Figure 2 shows the improvement in calculated engine performance due to different intake-duct length and modified valve timing. Figure 3 gives an example of accuracy of the calculation results compared with measured data of engine performance with new intake-duct length. Figure 4 illustrates the final engine performance with modified valve-timing, intake-duct length and new exhaust silencer. A comparison of measured performance data between the original and the redesigned engine gives shows the improvements in terms of maximum power and torque at low rpm.

SUZUKI INTRUDER 1500 LC BOTH WHEELS REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 27-02-2011

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In order to keep the proper balance on the bike lift, I would suggest that the front wheel be removed first, this is comparatively easier than the rear wheel which will be explained later. Front wheel removal : Remove the end caps, remove the front axle “Pinch Bolt” front left fork ( item (2) in manual ) remove caliper bolts both (2) both sides (2003 model year) secure calipers, secure wheel from dropping while removing axle from left side. Remove front axle, caution : there are (2) spacers on this axle, left & right, make sure you mark them, as they are both different in shape & in length, & must be re-assembled in same order to provide proper cetrallity of the front wheel with the forks & the brake calipers.both spacers have large flanges which go towards the bearing, the right spacer has (2) flanges, the largest dia. goes towards the bearing. ( very important) Now comes the tough part, I had the original stock pipes, so if you have different pipes, or your bike is a different year, (2003) your choices may be different from mine. Remove OEM right side saddlebag, slack off muffler coupling brackets # 8 & # 8a which connect muffler crossover tank to top muffler, this is where the power of the allen socket wrench set will come in handy, they’re pretty tight with the heat,remove top exhaust pipe bracket bolt (item 19 in manual) the top exhaust pipe should now swing down clear of the rear axle. You may be forced to provide more room for the exit and/or re-installation of the rear wheel by removing the bolt which secures the underside mufflet tank on the lower left side of the frame, (item # 13 in manual) then the (2) bolts, ( items # 14 in manual) which will allow the rear muffler body ( lower exhaust pipe ) to be pulled over to the right to provide access for easier rear wheel entry or removal

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2009 Daytona 675 Motorcycle Race Kit Manual

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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1. Remove the existing cylinder head gasket in line with the procedures detailed in the Daytona 675 service manual. 2. Position a piece of solder (with a diameter approximately 1.3 mm) on the four squish surfaces of each piston. Position the solder in line with the corresponding squish surfaces on the cylinder head and hold in place with a small amount of grease. 3. Refit the cylinder head with the head gasket. 4. Slowly turn the engine over, by hand, to compress the solder to the same height as the squish clearance. 5. Remove the cylinder head and head gasket. 6. Measure the compressed thickness of the solder. The squish clearance must be a minimum of 0.65 mm. If the thickness of the solder is less than 0.65 mm repeat steps 2 to 6 with a thicker head gasket until the squish clearance is at an acceptable level. NOTE •In some cases, it may be necessary to use a standard cylinder head gasket to achieve the correct squish clearance. 7. Fit the chosen cylinder head gasket following the procedures detailed in the Daytona 675 service manual. Warning Running the engine at less than the minimum recommended squish height can lead to the pistons contacting the cylinder head, causing major engine damage. This could cause loss of motorcycle control and an accident. Triumph Designs Ltd 2009. Camshaft, Valve Spring & Camshaft Sprocket Kits Parts Supplied Camshaft, Inlet – A9618055 Camshaft, Exhaust – A9618056 Valve Spring Kit – A9618086 Camshaft Sprocket Kit – A9618095 Warning The Race Kit camshaft, valve Spring and camshaft sprockets must be fitted as a complete set. If they are not fitted as a complete set a failure may result which could cause loss of motorcycle control and an accident. Caution The use of The Race Kit camshaft, valve Spring and camshaft sprockets detailed below will require changes to the fuelling and ignition settings. To alter these settings, a Triumph Programmable Race ECU combined with Triumph TRACS Race Calibration Software will be required. Failure to correct the fuelling and ignition settings will result in poor engine performance and could result in engine damage.

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