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Kawasaki KVF650/ 700, KSV 700 Camshaft Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 29-04-2012

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Liberally apply assembly lube to every surface of the camshaft. Install the camshaft into the cylinder head (the lobes should be pointed down) and align the decompressor shaft dowels with the weight arms. Install one of the camshaft sprocket holder bolts and tighten to less than finger tight, you should be able to move the camshaft very slightly back and forth, roll the crank over until the other bolt hole is exposed and insert the sprocket bolt and tighten to less than finger tight. Install the cam chain tensioner assembly, do not install the spring, spring dowel, washer, and bolt. Using the spring from the cam chain tensioner very slowly push the tensioner shaft in until the cam chain slack has just been taken out, this is witnessed by the very slight lifting of the opposite end of the cam out of the cylinder head cam journal, do not over tighten the cam chain at this point, if you do, remove the tensioner assembly and retract the plunger again and start over. (If it stays too tight it will stretch the cam chain prematurely and cause cam sprocket damage when the engine is assembled) Roll the camshaft toward the back of the machine (clockwise) loading the sprocket bolts against the back of the sprocket bolt holes, while holding the camshaft in that direction, tighten the sprocket mounting bolt to 14 ft/lb of torque. Rotate the engine in the opposite direction that you rotated it earlier and align the TDC mark, tighten the other sprocket-mounting bolt to 14 ft/lb of torque. Verify the cam timing and crankshaft TDC marks are in alignment

Honda XR600/ XR650L Camshaft Installation and removal Instructions

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 05-12-2011

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Remove the tappet covers. Remove the crankshaft cap and timing hole cap on the left engine case cover. Remove the spark plug. Rotate the engine in a counter clockwise direction. Position the engine at true top dead center (TDC) using the mark on the flywheel. True top dead center occurs when both the intake and exhaust valve are closed when the piston is at TDC. This is technically the end of the compression stroke and the beginning of the power stroke. The “artificial” TDC is during the overlap when both the intake and exhaust valves would be open. Since the rocker arms are located in the valve cover on an XR600, true TDC occurs when the cam lobes are pointed downward when the piston is at TDC. Remove the cylinder head cover. Warning, do not drop the locating dowels into the cam chain cavity. There are two dowels, one on either side of the cover. Remove and discard the gasket. Note the positioning of the cam lobes, this will help during installation of your new Hot Cams camshaft. Note also the location of the sealed bearing on the end of the camshaft and the direction in which it is facing. Loosen the bolts that hold the camshaft sprocket. Remove the lower camshaft sprocket bolt first, it will be necessary to rotate the engine. Rotate the engine back to TDC. Release the spring tension on the cam chain tensioner by lifting the end of the spring out of its hole in the tensioner block. A spring tool is a good method. Be careful not to scar the cylinder head’s gasket surface for the cylinder head cover. Remove the allen bolt that holds the end of the tensioner block shaft
just to the inside of the tensioner block. Note the location of the tensioner block shaft cap ridge. Using a pair of pliers pull the shaft out by grasping the ridge and using a clockwise rotation of the shaft while pulling outward. Pull the tensioner block upwards, out of the cylinder head. Remove the top camshaft sprocket bolt. Pull the sprocket off the camshaft but maintain upward tension, do not allow the chain to sag, it is possible for the chain to “slip” on the bottom sprocket of the crankshaft and change the cam timing. Remove the camshaft. Remove the cam bearings. Set the stock camshaft with the auto-decompression aside. It is not possible to use the auto-
decompression on the Hot Cams so do not attempt to re-install. Use a manual decompression. Install the bearings onto the new Hot Cam

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HARLEY DAVIDSON CHROME BELT SPROCKET COVER KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 11-02-2011

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Installation 1. Remove rear wheel. Refer to the applicable Service Manual for the proper removal procedure. 2. Remove bolts and washers from sprocket. •If you intend to install Acorn Nut and Stud Kit (Part No. 91734-85), refer to that Instruction Sheet at this time (please note that this Acorn Nut and Stud Kit does not fit Sportster (XL) models). •If you do not intend to install Acorn Nut and Stud Kit (Part No. 91734-85), retain bolts and washers for reassembly. Proceed to Step 3. 3. Position sprocket cover so that its mounting holes align with the holes in the sprocket. NOTE There is only one position which allows each hole in the cover to align with a hole in the sprocket. If replacement bolts, washers, or nuts are required, use only genuine Harley-Davidson parts specified for your particular model. Aftermarket fasteners can adversely affect performance, which could result in death or serious injury. NOTE • See Harley-Davidson service manual for proper torque val- ues; •Aftermarket fasteners may not have the specific property requirements to perform properly. 4. Install bolts with washers through holes in sprocket cover and sprocket, and into threaded holes in wheel hub. Depending on the tensile strength grade of the bolts in your particular application, tighten bolts in a crosswise pattern to one of the torque values listed in the following table: 5. Refer to the applicable Service Manual for the proper procedure and perform the following: •Install axle. •Align belt. •Adjust belt tension. •Tighten rear axle nut to 60 – 65 ft-lbs torque. 6. Check sprocket for radial runout (eccentricity). If runout is visible, mark outer edge of sprocket at the location of runout. Loosen sprocket bolts and tap the marked location with a rubber mallet. Tighten sprocket bolts in a crosswise pattern to the applicable torque specified in Step 4.

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Harley Davidson Big Twin EVO Engines Edelbrock Performer-Plus Camshaft , Performer RPM Camshaft , & Performer RPM Camshaft INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 03-03-2012

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Disconnect the battery. Secure the motorcycle on a suitable stand with the rear wheel off the ground. Remove components necessary for easy access to rocker covers, pushrod covers, and gear case cover, i.e., exhaust system, gas tank, air cleaner, foot rest, etc. Remove spark plugs. 2. Remove top and middle sections of rocker boxes, then rotate engine so both valves are closed on the cylinder head being worked on (put transmission in high gear and move rear wheel to slowly rotate engine). Remove the two 5/16″ bolts nearest the rocker arm shafts (keep all shafts, rocker arms, and pushrods in order so they can be installed in their original position). Remove the pushrod covers and pushrods. NOTE: The use of adjustable time-saver pushrods will simplify installation. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for installation of those parts. 3. It is not necessary to remove the tappet guides if you use a cam installation tool such as Crane #9-0020 to hold the tappets in place during cam installation. If you remove the tappet guides, you must use a tappet block alignment tool such as Crane #9- 0021 to re-install the tappet guides. Tappets can be held up in place during removal of guides by using U-shaped piece of safety wire or paper clip hooked to the tappets. 4. Remove ignition covers on gearcase cover by drilling out rivets to gain access to sensor plate. Remove the inner cover, sensor plate and rotor. NOTE: For re-installation, use new rivets H-D #8699 or drill and tap for 10-32 screws. 5. Remove the gearcase cover screws and remove cover while holding end of cam inward. Now remove the camshaft, spacing washer and thrust plate

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Yamaha YZ 250F Camshafts REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 30-12-2011

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Remove the 4 bolts that hold the exhaust cam cap in place, lift the cam cap off. It may be necessary to pry very lightly on the cap to lift it off its dowel pins. Do not use the cam lobes as the pry point. Be careful not to drop the dowels and also be careful to not lose the half moon shaped retainer for the bearing under the cam cap. Remove the 6 bolts that hold the intake camshaft cap and lift the cam cap off the camshaft, again, be careful to not drop the retainer or dowels. Lift the intake camshaft out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting. Remove the cam chain from the sprocket, set the stock camshaft aside. Lift the exhaust cam out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting and remove the chain from the sprocket. Do not drop the cam chain, dangle it over the side of the engine while keeping slight upward pressure on the chain to maintain its position on the drive sprocket on the crankshaft. Fit the half moon shaped retainers in the grooves of the Hot Cams camshaft bearings to ensure good fit, set retainers aside for the time. Using assembly lube, lube the shim buckets, bearing surfaces for the camshafts in the cylinder head, and pack some in the camshaft bearings. Set the exhaust cam into the cylinder head casting while at the same time fitting the cam chain over the sprocket. Make sure that you keep all the cam chain slack to the back of the engine. The cam chain pulls the camshaft sprockets in a counter clockwise direction and the slack of the chain must be kept on the cam chain tensioner side of the engine. The exhaust cam has two timing marks on it. When correctly installed one mark will be at the 9 o’clock position and the other mark will be at the 12 o’clock position. When correctly timed the mark at 9 o’clock will be aligned with the valve cover gasket surface. Repeat the above process for the intake camshaft. Again, make sure you keep the chain slack to the cam chain tensioner side of the engine. Check to be sure the crankshaft is still at TDC. The intake cam has two timing marks also. One at 12 o’clock and the other at 3 o’clock. When both cams are installed correctly, the valve cover gasket surface will form a straight line through the exhaust timing mark at 9 o’clock and the intake timing mark at 3 o’clock

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Kawasaki KFX KLX 400 Camshafts Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Remove the plug bolt from the back of the cam chain tensioner assembly. It is under pressure from the spring. Remove the spring and pin. Remove the bolts and tensioner assembly from the cylinder. Release the lock on the tensioner assembly and push the tensioner rod into the assembly so that it is fully retracted. Remove the eight 5mm Allen headed bolts that hold the cam caps in place. Remove the cam caps; be aware of the locating dowels in the caps to keep them from falling into the engine. It may be necessary to pry very lightly on the caps to lift them off their dowel pins. Do not use the cam lobe as the pry point. Lift the intake camshaft out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting. Remove the cam chain from the sprocket, set the stock camshaft aside. Lift the exhaust cam out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting and remove the chain from the sprocket. Do not drop the cam chain; dangle it over the side of the engine while keeping slight upward pressure on the chain to maintain its position on the drive sprocket on the crankshaft. Using assembly lube, lube the shim buckets and bearing surfaces for the camshafts in the cylinder head. Set the exhaust camshaft into the cylinder head casting while at the same time fitting the cam chain over the sprocket. Make sure that you keep all the cam chain slack to the back of the engine. Repeat the above process for the intake camshaft. Again, make sure you keep the chain slack to the cam chain tensioner side of the engine. Check to be sure the crankshaft is still at TDC. Check the location of the cam lobes. The camshafts are marked, and preset to 108-degree centers. If the lobes are not where they should be, adjust the positioning of the camshaft by rotating the sprocket one tooth on the chain. Do this until it is in the correct position as before you removed the camshafts. Check the positioning of the crankshaft for the TDC mark

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Daytona 675 Motorcycle Race Kit Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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Remove the existing cylinder head gasket in line with the procedures detailed in the Daytona 675 service manual. 2. Fit the chosen race kit cylinder head gasket following the procedures detailed in the Daytona 675 service manual. Caution The use of the following race kit cylinder head gaskets will require changes to the fuelling settings. To alter fuelling settings a third party programmable control unit will be required. Item Description Qty 1 Head gasket (t = 0.65mm) 1 1 Head gasket (t = 0.60mm) 1 1 * Page 7 of 29 © Triumph Designs Ltd 2007. Cams, Valve Spring & Sprocket Kits Parts Supplied Camshaft Inlet Kit – A9618055 Camshaft Exhaust Kit – A9618056 Valve Spring Kit – A9618058 Camshaft Sprocket Kit – A9618057 Warning The race kit must be fitted as a complete set. If it is not fitted as a complete set a failure may result which could cause loss of motorcycle control and an accident. Caution The use of the Camshaft, Valve spring & Sprocket race kits detailed below will require changes to the fuelling settings. To alter fuelling settings a third party programmable control unit will be required. 5 5 4 1 3 2 4 3 Item Description Qty 1 Cam assy, inlet, race 1 Item Description Qty 2 Cam assy, exhaust, race 1 Item Description Qty 3 Valve spring, 14.4id, race12 Item Description Qty 4 Sprocket, camshaft, 34T 2 5 Socket head cap screw, Encapsulated, M6x10 4
Page 8 of 29 © Triumph Designs Ltd 2007. NOTE •The standard inlet cam is 9.25mm max lift and 258.50o duration. The race kit inlet cam is 9.25mm max lift and 268.74o duration. •The standard exhaust cam is 8.5mm max lift and 246o duration. The race kit exhaust cam is 8.5mm max lift and 262.21o duration. •The race kit valve spring must be used in conjunction with the standard spring platforms and retainers. The fitted length of the race springs is the same as the standard spring. 1. The race kit valve springs should be assembled in the same manner as the standard valve springs. Follow the procedure detailed in section 3 of the Daytona 675 service manual. Ensure the springs are installed with the close wound, colour coded end of the springs facing downwards, towards the piston. 2. The race kit camshafts should be assembled in the same manner as the standard camshafts. Follow the procedure detailed in section 3 of the Daytona 675 service manual. 3. The race kit cam sprockets should be mounted and secured to the camshafts using the slotted holes in the sprocket. The slotted holes allow adjustment of the valve timing. The circular holes in the sprockets are for Triumph service tool T3880102 and should not be used to mount the sprockets to the camshafts. NOTE •No timing marks are included on the race sprockets. Race engines will typically have different depths skimmed off the cylinder head and, therefore require specific individual timing. 4. The camshafts should be timed using cam degreeing equipment which typically consists of a degree wheel, pointer, dial indicator and piston stop. Optimum cam timing will depend on the exact specification of the engine, but a recommended starting point is 104o IMOP (Inlet Maximum Opening Point) and 104o EMOP (Exhaust Maximum Opening Point). 5. Always check the inlet and exhaust piston to valve clearance for the timing selected to use, before running the engine. You must ensure both clearances are adequate. As a guide, the standard nominal piston to valve clearance is 1.3mm inlet & 1.5mm exhaust

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HARLEY DAVIDSON CHROME SPROCKET HARDWARE KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 14-02-2011

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INSTALLATION For 1991 through 1996 XL with Laced Wheels For 1993 through 1996 Softail with Laced Wheels For 1993 through 1997 Dyna with Laced Wheels 1. Remove the rear wheel. Refer to REAR WHEEL REMOVAL in the Service Manual. 2. Remove all stock sprocket mounting screws, washers and locknuts. 3. Place a new chrome washer onto the threads of each new chrome screw from the kit. Install the sprocket onto the wheel. 4. See Figure 1. Obtain new original equipment locknuts and install on the screws. See Figure 2. Tighten all screws in the sequence shown to 45-55 ft-lbs (61-75 Nm). 5. Install the rear wheel. See REAR WHEEL INSTALLATION in the service manual. Verify the correct axle alignment and check belt deflection per service manual instructions INSTALLATION For 1997 and Later XL with Laced Wheels For 1997 through 1999 Softail with Laced Wheels For 1998 through 1999 Dyna with Laced Wheels For ALL Models with Cast Wheels 1. Remove the rear wheel. Refer to REAR WHEEL REMOVAL in the Service Manual. 2. Remove all stock sprocket mounting screws and washers. 3. Place a new chrome washer onto the threads of each new chrome screw from the kit. Apply 2-3 drops of Loctite 262 (red) to the screw threads, and install the sprocket onto the wheel. Tighten all sprocket screws finger-tight. 4. See Figure 3. Tighten the bolts in the sequence shown to 23 ft-lbs (31.2 Nm). NOTE If 23 ft-lbs (31.2 Nm) is reached before screw is fully seated, remove screw and examine screw and wheel for thread damage. Replace screw or wheel if threads are damaged. 5. After all screws have been tightened to 23 ft-lbs (31.2 Nm), mark a straight line, with a grease pencil, on all sprocket screw heads continuing the line over onto the sprocket. 1 4 2 5 3 30 is04009 Figure 3. Tightening Sequence (Later Laced Wheels and All Cast Wheels) 6. Mark a second line at 30° clockwise from the lines on the sprocket at each screw. NOTE For best results, use Snap-on Torque Angle Gauge TA360 or equivalent. 7. Using the marks as a guide, and using the tightening sequence shown in Figure 3+, turn each screw an additional 1/12 turn or 30° clockwise. 8. Install the rear wheel. See REAR WHEEL INSTALLATION in the service manual. Verify the correct axle alignment and check belt deflection per service manual instructions

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Honda GL1000 Timing Belts Removal / Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 08-04-2011

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Turn engine as described above until the T-1 mark aligns with engine block marks (it looks a little ‘out’ on the photo, it’s the angle). AND (this is important) the pulley marks align with the marks on the engine cover like here on LEFT side (seen from sitting on bike … remember). and RIGHT side. Mark this position on the central pulley and engine block. Now release the tensioner bolts. (*) And remove the belt. (*) (*) When you do that the right pulley (photo-left) will ‘wander/turn’ out of position when you remove the belt, as it is ‘riding’ on cam ‘slope’ (which is under the influence of the valve springs). Don’t worry. One thing you can do to calm your nerves and keep it in position: put the new belt loosely over the pulley and holding the pulley in the CORRECT POSITION (marks aligned) ‘strip’ a spanner to the frame. Do not use the spanner to turn the pulley. Use your hands … then ‘lock’ it with the spanner. (Make absolutely sure you do not turn (release/loosen) the bolt). And, here’s a nifty trick posted by Mooseheadm5 in another thread: “..one thing that made it super easy (and 3 reduced the anxiety level quite a bit) was that I loosened the tappet adjusters all the way [...snip...] you do not have to fight the valve springs much, plus the cams do not want to snap back or forward so you do not necessarily need to use Octane’s zip-tied wrench trick.” – Thanks, Moosehead . Release left tensioner bolts . Remove belt. Put on new belt. Check the tensioners or ‘tension rollers’. You may think they are ‘fine’: they ‘roll’ and don’t make funny sounds? You won’t know until you’ve had a set of new rollers in your hands. They should be real ‘tight’ as a set of new roller bearings … which I think they are, in fact. If they appear ‘dry’ or make any sounds; renew them and get rid of that high pitched whining sound associated with ‘dry’ rollers. This is how they go on left side (remember…photo-right). And the spring gets attached . … Pulleys in correct position (crank pulley and cam pulley) . … Left belt tight at the bottom … Tension roller loosely attached (let the spring do the tension). (On photo it is not on yet … ooops.

2003 Ducati ST4s Timing Belt Adjustment

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Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 31-10-2010

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This instruction on cam belt adjustment starts after you remove the fairing pieces. Plan on an hour to remove these. Since you are performing your own service, buying Ducati belts may not be that expensive. There may be another belt source, but I have not confirmed this for the 996 engine of the 02-03 ST4s. Fig 1 – ST4s ready for belt adj./ repl. Fig 2 – Crank tool installed. See dwg. 1) Ensure maximum of ½ tank of gas. Fuel will leak into the charcoal canister, then onto the floor if the tank is over half full and the tank is tilted up on its hinge. So put the tank up on its hinge. 2) Remove spark plugs. Cover sparkplug wells with boots or rags. This is a great time to toss out those Champions for a set of NGK DCPR8E’s. 3) Remove the front shield from the horizontal cylinder head. 4) Remove crankshaft cover on Riders LH side and insert crank tool. A crank tool can be made by following the drawing at the end of this document. See Fig 2 above. The flat head screws used are kind of soft so beware on their removal. 5) Remove oil pressure sending unit cable and remove oil sending unit. No oil should pour out. 6) Remove battery and remove bolts fastening battery box to engine/frame. You can let the battery box dangle or partially support it via a bungee cord. Be careful of the cable on the ground of the ECU. By dangling the battery box excess stress could be placed on this cables connector and you don’t want to troubleshoot an intermittent electrical issue. 7) Remove cam belt covers. The two covers over the cams are real easy. The center piece is removed by pulling it down. You may have to move some hoses and cables out Timing belt adj. doc 1
of the way because it is a tight fit. Removing the oil pressure sending unit gave clearance for the removal. Fig 1 shows bike ready to be worked on. On the Rider’s LH is a window on the case cover. Using a flashlight to illuminate the area, marks can be rotated into view using the engine turning tool. There are two marks denoting the TDC of each of the cylinders. When a mark in the window aligns with the pointer, look at the crank driving pulley on the Rider’s RH of the engine. If the driving pulley’s mark is aligned with the pointer on the engine case, you are at TDC horizontal cylinder. If the pulley mark and the pointer on the engine do not align, rotate the engine until the mark in the window on the Rider’s LH side case cover aligns as well as the pulley’s mark and the engine’s pointer. Fig 3 shows the engine pulley and pointer. You can check that the horizontal piston is at TDC by inserting a welding rod into the spark plug well and touch the top of the piston with it to sense its position. Timing marks on cam pulleys are clearly stamped on all four pulleys. When the crank driving pulley aligns with its corresponding pointer on the engine case and the marks on the pulleys align with their corresponding marks on both cylinders, you are in position for belt adjustment and replacement

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