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Adjusting the Pekar K68 for Dnepr or Ural

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 11-11-2010

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1. Make sure the ignition timing is correct 2. Adjust the valves as necessary to ensure proper operation 3. Run the engine to warm it up a bit 4. Adjust the float setting. To do this, remove the carburetors (leave the throttle cables attached), remove the bowl and turn the carburetor upside down (fuel will spill). The float should look like this: Adjust as necessary by bending the float support (#37 in Figure 1). Reinstall Installation and idle adjustment 1. First you must adjust the idle. It is acceptable per the manual to adjust the idle by using the idle adjust screws (11). This usually involves screwing them then backing out 1 to 1.5 turns. Or you can adjust looking at the sliders 2. If installing the carburetors: a. Remove the cover (2) b. Reomve the slider (3) c. Place the throttle cable through the guide (18) with the spring (4) on the cable. d. Route the cable through the slide catch (6) e. Insert the slide assembly into the chamber and make sure it easily slides up and down. Direct the needle (8) into the opening of the diffuser (angled side visible). f. Screw assembly together and verify via throttle movement that slide moves freely. Attach fuel delivery lines to (12). 3. Using the idle set screw (11) raise the slider so the lower edge is 1-2 mm. 4. Assemble to engine using the proper gaskets (paper – felt – paper). 5. Using the locknut (26) adjust the free play of the throttle cable (2-3 mm) 6. Adjust the idle mixture screw – turn in completely then out 1 to 1.5 turns. * Starting using the K68′s (cold weather) 1. Verify fuel flow. Apply choke (pull 52 in Fig1). 2. Using the ticklers (13) allow fuel to enter the bowl until fuel drains from (14) 3. With the ignition off, kick 1 or 2 times 4. Turn ignition on, and as soon as engine is warmed up (maybe sooner) push choke mechanisms to open choke Idle Adjustment (engine running and warm) 1. Remove one of the spark plug caps, and with the cap shorted, adjust (11) to decrease RPM’s to a point of being minimally steady. 2. Adjust the mixture (15) out until RPM’s decrease. Turn in until RPM’s increase slightly. Then turn in screws ¼ to 1/3 revoultion. 3. Do the same for the second carburetor with the first spark plug cap shorted. 4. With both cylinders, adjust each idle (11) on each carburetor the same amount each until it’s at a steady, minimal RPM. Use small changes. (at this point you can use your airflow tool to check). 5. Sharply increase, then decrease throttle. Then engine must return to low RPMs smoothly. If the engine goes below limits, readjust (11) from step 4. Synchronization of the K68 Note: Rather than using the opposite cylinder shorted to test the pull of the live cylinder carburetor, you can use something like a Twinmax connected to the test ports (27 Fig 1). Or, if you have a model without these ports, use a Synchrometer (Appendix 2) held against the face of the carburetor. These tools merely show airflow passing through each carburetor (which is dependent on the position and wear on the slide). If using these tools, it’s not necessary to do the following steps. You wil want to use a throttle guide (Appendix 1), to show airflow at various throttle settings. Using the flow meter of your choice make sure each carburetor is the same at the various throttle settings. 1. Place the motorcycle on the center stand ensuring the rear wheel is suspended 2. Make sure you have large area to work with (safety issues here) 3. Shift into the highest gear with the engine running 4. Short one spark plug cap to the cylinder (using a nail or something in the fins) 5. Increase the speed to 40-50 km/hr 6. Fix the throttle using the throttle (maybe using a throttle stop screw under the throttle housing). 7. Reconnect other cylinder and using the opposite carburetor determine the speed which should be the same as the first. 8. Adjust the position of this slide to achieve the referenced speed using the locknut at the top of the carburetor.

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KAWASAKI TERYX EFI Installation Instructions.

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 08-02-2011

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Basic Tuning Adjustments 1. The following instructions are for basic fuel tuning. Modes 1,2, & 3 are allowing adjustments to increase and decrease the amount of fuel the engine needs. Modes 4 & 5 are for advanced tuning only. DO NOT change modes 4 & 5 when doing basic tuning! 2. To help understand how these modes work, you can think of them as if you were working with a carburetor. 3. Remember each time you push the MODE button you will be advancing to the next mode. Push the MODE button once and you are now in mode 1, push the MODE button again and you are now in mode 2 and so on. You only need to be concerned with modes 1, 2 & 3 for basic tuning. Modes 4 & 5 are for advanced tuning ONLY. 4. If you need to go back to the settings that were pre programmed when you purchased the controller, just look at the picture in each mode, the colored square represents where the settings were when you purchased the controller. 5. Looking at the controller you will see eight lights with numbers under them, this is what you need to look at when changing settings. The #1 light on the controller represents the leanest setting. TRINITY RACING DOES NOT TAKE REPONSIBLITY FOR DAMAGES THAT MAY OCCUR DURING OPERATION OF YOUR VEHICLE UNDER IMPROPER JET SETTINGS. IT IS THE FINAL RESPONSIBLITY OF THE OWNER/RIDER TO ADJUST JETTING TO SPECIFIC RIDING CONDITIONS AND ELEVATION BEFORE RIDING. WARNING! 1.877.FAS TOYS 2.Remove both seats 6. Re-install engine cover and seats. 6. Mode 1 green light represents idle & cruise adjustment (i.e. pilot jet). To adjust this setting push the MODE button once and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. 7. Mode 2 yellow light represents an additional amount of fuel added during acceleration (i.e. needle position). To adjust this setting, push MODE twice and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. 12 34 56 7 8 12 34 56 7 8 8. Mode 3 red light represents more fuel being added during full throttle (i.e. main jet). To adjust this setting push the MODE button three times and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. 9. If you are confident about your tuning skills and feel you need to adjust other parameters, see Advanced Tuning. 12 34 56 7 8 Advanced Tuning Adjustments 1. Advance tuning has two modes in which to adjust. They are called mode 4 and mode 5. In basic tuning, you are changing the amount of fuel that the engine receives, but with advance tuning, you will be changing when the fuel will be available. In each mode you can adjust how soon the fuel delivery occurs. 2. Mode 4 yellow light and blue light represent when the fuel delivery is available during partial throttle acceleration. To adjust this setting, push the MODE button four times and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. Only the yellow light will be changing.

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Ural carburetors Installation and idle adjustment

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Filed Under (Ural) by admin on 02-11-2010

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1. First you must adjust the idle. It is acceptable per the manual to adjust the idle by using the idle adjust screws (11). This usually involves screwing them then backing out 1 to 1.5 turns. Or you can adjust looking at the sliders 2. If installing the carburetors: a. Remove the cover (2) b. Reomve the slider (3) c. Place the throttle cable through the guide (18) with the spring (4) on the cable. d. Route the cable through the slide catch (6) e. Insert the slide assembly into the chamber and make sure it easily slides up and down. Direct the needle (8) into the opening of the diffuser (angled side visible). f. Screw assembly together and verify via throttle movement that slide moves freely. Attach fuel delivery lines to (12). 3. Using the idle set screw (11) raise the slider so the lower edge is 1-2 mm. 4. Assemble to engine using the proper gaskets (paper – felt – paper). 5. Using the locknut (26) adjust the free play of the throttle cable (2-3 mm) 6. Adjust the idle mixture screw – turn in completely then out 1 to 1.5 turns 1. Remove one of the spark plug caps, and with the cap shorted, adjust (11) to decrease RPM’s to a point of being minimally steady. 2. Adjust the mixture (15) out until RPM’s decrease. Turn in until RPM’s increase slightly. Then turn in screws ¼ to 1/3 revoultion. 3. Do the same for the second carburetor with the first spark plug cap shorted. 4. With both cylinders, adjust each idle (11) on each carburetor the same amount each until it’s at a steady, minimal RPM. Use small changes. (at this point you can use your airflow tool to check). 5. Sharply increase, then decrease throttle. Then engine must return to low RPMs smoothly. If the engine goes below limits, readjust (11) from step 4. Synchronization of the K68 Note: Rather than using the opposite cylinder shorted to test the pull of the live cylinder carburetor, you can use something like a Twinmax connected to the test ports (27 Fig 1). Or, if you have a model without these ports, use a Synchrometer (Appendix 2) held against the face of the carburetor. These tools merely show airflow passing through each carburetor (which is dependent on the position and wear on the slide). If using these tools, it’s not necessary to do the following steps. You wil want to use a throttle guide (Appendix 1), to show airflow at various throttle settings. Using the flow meter of your choice make sure each carburetor is the same at the various throttle settings. 1. Place the motorcycle on the center stand ensuring the rear wheel is suspended 2. Make sure you have large area to work with (safety issues here) 3. Shift into the highest gear with the engine running 4. Short one spark plug cap to the cylinder (using a nail or something in the fins) 5. Increase the speed to 40-50 km/hr 6. Fix the throttle using the throttle (maybe using a throttle stop screw under the throttle housing). 7. Reconnect other cylinder and using the opposite carburetor determine the speed which should be the same as the first. 8. Adjust the position of this slide to achieve the referenced speed using the locknut at the top of the carburetor.

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Kawasaki FI Calibration Tool Instruction Manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 08-02-2011

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System Function Kawasaki FI Calibration Tool (FI Tool) is developed to modify the mapping of the racing machine to gain operating conditions suitable for the course and the rider’s skill. The following are the available setting functions. Table 1 FI Tool Function Model Name Functions Available Setting Range ’04 ZX-10R ’05 ZX-6RR ’05 ZX-10R ’06 ZX-10R ’07 ZX-6R 1) Adjust the injected fuel rate at acceleration -30 % ~ +30 % 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 2) Adjust the injected fuel rate of No.1 and No.4 cylinder -30 % ~ +30 % 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 3) Adjust the injected fuel rate of No.2 and No.3 cylinder -30 % ~ +30 % 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 4) Adjust the injected fuel rate of primary and secondary injector * -30 % ~ +30 % -10 % ~ +10 % — – — 〇 — – — – — 〇 5) Adjust the ignition timing -15°CA~ +5°CA 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 6) Adjust the sub-throttle opening angle -50 % ~ +50 % -45 % ~ +45 % 〇 — – 〇 〇 — 〇 — – 〇 7) Adjust the exhaust device opening angle -50 % ~ +50 % 〇 — 〇 〇 — 8) Adjust the all injected fuel rates of all cylinders and operating are a simultaneously -30 % ~ +30 % 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 9) Adjust the value of engine over revolution limiter 0 ~ +300 rpm -1000 ~ +700rpm -1000 ~+1200rpm — – — 〇 — – — 〇 — – — 〇 〇 — – 10) Set the fuel cut or not at deceleration Use or Not Use 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 11) Set the sub throttle controlled or not Controlled or Full Open Fixed 〇 — – — – 12) Set the exhaust device controlled or not Controlled or Full Open Fixed 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 13) Set the Auto Shifter Ignition Cut Length Controlled or not, set Ig. Cut Time by gear range — – 〇 〇 〇 14) Set the Pit Road RPM Limit Controlled or not, set Upper Limit RPM by gear range

Honda Goldwing GL1800 Solid Rear Axle Trike Conversion Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 16-02-2011

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Specifications Overall Width: 57.75″ Overall Length: 108″ Overall Length w/EZ-Steer 109.5 Wheel Base: 71″ Extended 4.5″ At Rear Axel Wheel Base w/EZ Steer 72.5″ Load Capacity: 500 Lb Tire Size: 205 / 70 / R15 Wheel Size (15″) Offset +35 mm 15x7JJ 4×4.5 Tire Pressure 20 PSI Suspension: “Zero-Flex” Internal Swing Arm utilizing 3 shocks, OEM shock absorber plus 2 coil over shock absorbers. Rear Differential: Champion Lightweight rear axle / differential assembly. Gear Ratio 2.93:1 gear ratio Brakes: Original front plus 2 high performance disc brakes at rear. Storage Capacity: 6.75 cubic feet. 3 full-face helmets and additional storage. Trike Conversion Installation Kit Honda Goldwing GL1800 Champion Trikes Page 7 of 28 Revision 10 4 Removal of Original Parts Most tasks necessary in this guide can be accomplished with the vehicle on its center stand. Secure the center stand to one of the forward crash bars with a ratchet strap to keep vehicle from rolling forward and off the center stand. Be sure that the vehicle is laterally stable as well. Remove the following from the vehicle. See OEM manual for detailed instructions. Items to be retained for return of deposit or re-installation after modification shall be duly noted. • Seat (to be re-installed without modification) • Left and right side covers (to be re-installed without modification) • Battery and battery box (to be re-installed without modification) • Left and right saddle bags • Remove taillight and locking assemblies from saddlebags (to be returned for refund of deposit) • Trunk (to be re-installed without modification) • Left and right passenger foot rests (to be re-installed without modification) • Left and right foot rest under covers (to be modified and re-installed) • Left and right rear crash bars • Saddle bag trunk stay (to be modified and re-installed) • Left and right mufflers (Mufflers only, do not remove decorative covers) • Rear wheel • Left and right pivot bolt covers (to be re-installed without modification) • Reverse resistor (to be relocated) • Swing Arm – Note : Carry out brake system modifications (Section 5) prior to removing Swing Arm. • Note : Upper bolt of mono shock can be removed without removing the fuel tank. • Note : Do not remove actuator hose from actuator pump or shock absorber. Dismounting shock actuator pump will allow more movement of shock absorber when removing swing arm.Trike Conversion Installation Kit Honda Goldwing GL1800 Champion Trikes Page 8 of 28 Revision 10 5 Brake System Modification Note : Modification to the vehicle brake system should be carried out prior to removal of the swing arm. From the manufacturer, your Honda Gold Wing brake system utilizes both front and rear brakes when the foot brake is applied. In order to insure safe operation of your Gold Wing when converted to a Champion Sidecars Trike, the brake system must be modified to isolate the front and rear brake systems from each other. Once modification is complete, four of the six pistons in the front calipers operate only when the hand brake lever is applied. The rear brakes operate only when the foot brake pedal is applied. The diagrams below outline the difference between the GL1800 OEM brake system and the system as modified by the Champion Sidecars Trike Conversion Kit.

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TRIUMPH AMERICA AND SPEEDMASTER HANDLEBAR RISERS INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Place a blanket folded several times over the fuel tank to help prevent any damage during the installation of the risers. Loosen the two 14mm riser mounting nuts located on the bottom side of the upper steering head. Loosen the four handlebar top clamp 6mm socket head screws. 2. It will help having a second person to hold the handlebars while you change the risers. Remove the four screws from the clamps and then remove the clamps. Pull the handlebars up off the risers, pull them back and rest them on top of the blanket. 3. Remove the nuts from the bottom of the risers and remove the risers carefully without allowing the risers to rotate, as this will scratch the clear coating on the upper steering head. Using the bolts, lock washers and washers supplied install the new risers making the bolts finger tight only. (NOTE; again, take care not to allow the risers to rotate as this will scratch the clear coating on the upper steering head). 4. Place the handlebars back up onto the new risers. Install the new top clamps supplied using the four M8 X 30mm socket head screws supplied. Set the height of the handlebars to the desired position, tighten the front bolts first and then the rear securely. (15-18 ft. lbs.) (There should be no gap between the riser and clamp at the front side) Tighten the two riser mounting bolts securely. (20-25 ft. lbs.). 5. Turn the handlebars all the way to the left and then right checking for any pulling or binding of the wires, hoses or cables. YOU MUST! Check to see that the throttle returns freely on its own when the handlebars are at full left and full right turn THIS STEP IS VERY IMPORTANT FOR OBVIOUS SAFETY REASONS! If you have a windshield installed it may be necessary to reroute the throttle cables, wires or hoses around the other side of the windshields mounting hardware to obtain adequate free play and free throttle return. You may also wish to remove the plastic clips or cable tie which secure the wiring to the handlebars and secure them to the brake hose and clutch cable (not the throttle cables) for a cleaner appearance

HARLEY DAVIDSON PULLBACK RISER KIT FOR 1.25-INCH HANDLEBARS REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 12-02-2011

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REMOVAL NOTES Cover the fuel tank with clean shop towels to prevent scratching. If replacing the handlebar, refer to the service manual to remove controls, hand levers, handlebar and risers. If only the risers are being replaced, proceed as follows: 1. Remove the two hex head cap screws and split lock- washers on the underside of the upper fork bracket that hold the currently installed risers in place. Discard the screws, but retain the lockwashers for assembly. Retain all additional components from the riser assembly when the screws are removed. 2. Remove and discard the four screws that fasten the currently installed handlebar upper clamp(s) to the risers. Remove and discard the clamp(s). Remove the handlebar from the risers and carefully set the handlebar on the fuel tank. INSTALLATION NOTES See Figure 3. The upper cup washer (A) must be oriented with the flat side up and the lower cup washer (D) with the flat side down. 1. See Figure 3. Align the components as shown, and install the risers (2) to the upper fork bracket. The ground wire (G) and the lock washer (F) are located on the right side only. Do not tighten the riser mounting screws (4) at this time. 2. If an appropriate Harley-Davidson 1-1/4 inch handlebar has not been installed, install one according to the Instruction Sheet included with the kit, or install the handlebar assembly onto the risers. 3. Loosely install riser caps (1) onto the handlebars and risers with the Bar & Shield toward the front of the motorcycle (Figure 1, Item 1). Install four socket head screws (3) with four washers (6). 1 is05253 1. Bar & Shield (install toward front of motorcycle) Figure 1. Bar & Shield on Riser and Cap 4. Check that the risers stay properly aligned with the handlebar and tighten the riser mounting screws following the instructions in the service manual. 5. Adjust handlebar to the desired position, verify that it is centered on the risers, then tighten the front socket head screws (3) to 12-15 ft-lb (16-20 Nm) . There should be no gap at the front of the risers.

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POLINI X1 GENERAL INFORMATION AND SPECIFICATIONS

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Filed Under (Polini) by admin on 02-12-2010

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Air cleaner – Clean and reoil daily or after each moto to prevent motor failure and reduced performance. Transmission oil – change after every race, or at end of riding day. Chain – check tension and lubricate before every ride, adjust or replace as needed. Reoil after riding in damp conditions. Clutch – disassemble and clean clutch assembly frequently, every 2-3 races at least. Inspect kickstarter gears at this time. Ignition cover – remove cover and wipe dry after each ride or after washing bike to remove condensation. Piston rings – replace as often as every 3-5 races with expert rider, less often with less aggressive riders. Piston, pin, rod bearing & circlips – replace as often as every 8-10 races with expert rider, less often with less aggressive riders. Coolant – change yearly, make sure there is at least a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze if freezing temperatures are possible. Steering bearings – Check daily for looseness or play. Adjust and regrease as needed. Swingarm – Check often for looseness. Regrease several times a year. Replace bushings if any play is evident. Sprockets – check for worn or curved teeth each time chain is adjusted. Chain roller& wear pads – check roller for free rotation when checking chain. Make sure roller is not bent or damaged. Check chain wear strips on swingarm and chain guide frequently. Replace as needed to prevent chain from damaging motorcycle. Spokes – Check after each race or after each day of riding for looseness or damage. Wheels & tires – check wheels after each race for dents, cracks or other damage. Check tires for cuts, damage or wear. Check tire pressure daily and adjust for riding conditions. Shock – Check shaft area daily for signs of oil leakage or damage. Check swingarm and shock bushings for looseness. Forks – Check forks daily for leaking oil or damage to tubes. Make sure forks are not twisted check for smooth operation. Spark plug – check sparkplug color and condition after each race or end of riding day. Adjust jetting to keep plug from fouling or overheating. Silencer – If bike seems to be getting louder, replace packing and decarbonize inner tube. Expansion pipe – check daily for large dents, damage or leakage. Remove carbon from headpipe when pipe is removed. Have large dents fixed, or any dents within 8″ of the cylinder. Replace o-rings on pipe as needed to maintain a good seal. Footpegs – check daily for proper operation, pegs should spring back into place. Make sure pegs are not bent or overly dull. Handlebars – check bars after any crash for bending. Look for cracks near bar clamps. Replace bars that have been straightened more than 2 or three times, or if bar is badly bent. Aweakened bar can snap suddenly causing injury to rider. Throttle – check throttle for proper operation each time before bike is started. Remove and clean inside of grip and bar as needed. Grips – check grips daily for wear or looseness. Replace as needed. Use grip glue & safety wire to help hold grips in position. Calipers & pads – check pad wear and caliper function daily or after each race. Replace pads and clean calipers as needed. Brake lever – check lever daily for damage or wear. Make sure lever is at proper angle for both seated and standing positions. Leave lever clamp loose enough to allow clamp to rotate during crash rather than breaking lever. Check and adjust freeplay as needed. Brake pedal – Check pedal daily for damage and proper freeplay. Adjust rear caliper as needed. Reeds – Remove and inspect reed block during every ring change. Check reeds for signs of wear, fraying and cracking. Make sure reeds sit flat and seal well. Replace at any sign of wear or damage or at least once a year, more often for expert riders. Nuts & bolts – Check all nuts and bolts regularly. Make sure to check engine mounting bolts and swingarm bolt frequently

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Triumph Rocket III Touring HANDLEBAR RISERS INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Place a blanket folded several times over the fuel tank to help prevent any damage during the installation of the risers. Using a small screwdriver pry out the plastic caps covering the handlebar clamp bolts. 2. Reroute the clutch cable behind the steering head as follows. Remove the clutch cable from the lever and perch. To do this first loosen the cable adjuster lock nut and then the adjuster as far as possible to give its maximum free play. Align their slots with the slot in the perch so that the cable may slide out. Standing in front of the handlebars grasp the clutch cable firmly trying to pull it out of the adjuster with one hand while pulling in the lever with the other hand. Now release the lever rapidly. Repeat several times if needed while keeping outward tension on the cable until the cable is out of the adjuster then slide it out thru the slots and remove the cable end from the lever. Reroute the clutch cable behind the steering head this will allow the additional slack needed when moving the handlebars back with the new risers (see photo). Replace the cable into the perch in the same manner. 3. It will help having a second person to hold the handlebars while you change the risers. Remove the four Allen bolts from the clamps and then remove the clamps. Pull the handlebars up off the risers, pull them back and rest them on top of the blanket. 4. Remove the Allen bolts from the center of the risers while holding the 14mm nut on the bottom side of the steering head with a wrench. Remove the risers leaving the large washer on the top side of the steering head in place. Using the bolts and lock washers supplied and the original heavy or thick washer install the new risers making the bolts finger tight only. 5. Place the handlebars back up onto the new risers. Install the new top clamps supplied using the four Allen bolts remover earlier. Set the height of the handlebars to the desired position, tighten the front bolts first and then the rear securely. (15-18 ft. lbs.) (There should be no gap between the riser and clamp at the front side) Tighten the two riser mounting bolts securely. (20-25 ft. lbs.). Replace the plastic bolt caps.

1988-2000 Honda Goldwing GL 1500 Signal Mirror Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 29-01-2011

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Start on either the left or right side mirror. These instructions start with the right side mirror. Pull back the rubber boot covering the mirror mount. 1 2 3 Remove the accessory compartment cover. Remove the four screws on all sides of the accessory compartment. Remove the accessory compartment from the motorcycle fairing and set it aside. 4 The motorcycle’s electrical wiring for turn indicators is located forward of the accessory compartment cavity and behind the front amber turn indicator light. Disconnect the wire connected to the turn indicator light. 5 There are three screws holding the mirror housing to the mirror mount. Remove the three screws. Set the mirror housing aside.
Mirror Replacement – 2 – Remove the three screws holding the hinge to the mirror housing. Remove the hinge and remove the rubber boot surrounding the mirror housing. 1 Match the base of the hinge up to the new Signal® mirror housing. Mark the place on the hinge where the Signal® mirror wire will go through. Drill a ¼” hole in the hinge. 2 Position the rubber boot over the Signal® mirror housing. 3 Guide the Signal® mirror wire harness through the drilled hole in the hinge. Mount the hinge on the Signal® mirror housing using the original three screws.

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