Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 30-11-2010
tires: Tires are the first part of any suspension system. The design of the tire and even the pressure you run can have a profound affect on the way your motorcycle handles. Stiff, low profile tires will give a sharper feel to the bike, as will higher tire pressures. Those of us who ride our GS’s off the road will decrease the tire pressure to about 50% of the street spec when we are in the dirt. The tire then becomes a very active part of the suspension, but will wallow like an old pig if not re-inflated when pressed back into pavement duty. It still surprises me when we have a customer complain that his BMW needs new shocks when they come in with nearly flat tires. It is possible that the best dollars-per- unit improvement you can make to your BMW may be in keeping the tires inflated. Chassis: There is not much that we can do about the chassis design, unless we are Troy the Welder, but it is a fact that different frames and swing arms flex differently and therefore are part of the suspension. On the Airheads, we often braced various parts of the frame and swing arms, resulting in improved handling that even mere mortals could appreciate. On the latest BMW’s it would take the likes of a Valentino Rossi to even notice if the parts were stiffened. Stiffer is not always better. One of the Japanese racing bike manufactures controls the stiffness of the frame in various areas to allow some flex for better handling. So, Mr. Rossi might not even like it if Troy stiffened his new BMW. Springs: Springs control the ride height of the motorcycle and the ability to allow for different loads. On most BMW’s there is a way to adjust the spring preload to some extent so that the ride can be optimized for a light rider or two-up operation with luggage. Dampers: Dampers control the speed and frequency at which the suspension operates by changing the kinetic (moving) energy to thermal (heat) energy. Without the damper, the suspension would oscillate as each movement occurred, resulting in decreased vehicle control. Dampers on BMW’s fall into two main groups. On airheads, older K bikes, F and G models, and the R1200 HP-2, the front dampers are integrated into the forks. On the rear of the above mentioned -3 – models, and on both ends of all the rest of the bikes, there is a more common shock absorber, around which the spring is located. The HP-2 uses an air spring and air dampened rear shock. Seat: OK, folks, this is here for my old buddy Jeff. We know that a seat isn’t part of suspension, but a bad one sure can make you miserable. We have sent dozens of seats to our friend Mike Harris for inexpensive mods that might improve your riding enjoyment more than any suspension changes you could make! Let us know if we can help you with this most important item
Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 05-03-2011
36753-87A This kit fits 1987 and later FXLR model motorcycles. 36755-87A This kit fits 1987 and later FXRS/SP model motorcycles. 38601-89 This kit fits 1988 and later FLTC, FLTC-Ultra, FLHS, FLHTC FLHTC-Ultra and FLHTP model motorcycles. 38606-87A This kit fits 1987 and later FXR, FXRS and FXRT model motorcycles. 38607-87A This kit fits 1987 and later FLST, FXST, FXSTC, FXRP, FLTC, FLHT, FLHTP and FLHTC model motorcycles. 38617-95 This kit fits 1995 and later FXSTSB model motorcycles. 38647-98 This kit fits 1998 and 1999 FXSTB model motorcycles. 38661-00 This kit fits2000 and later FXDL, FXDS-CONV and FXDWG model motorcycles. 38664-00 This kit fits2000 and later FXSTD model motorcycles. 38665-00 This kit fits2000 and later FXSTB model motorcycles. 38666-00 This kit fits2000 and later FXSTS, FLSTS, FLSTC, FLSTF, FXDX, FXD and FXST model motorcycles. 38667-00 This kit fits 2000 and later FLTR, FLTRI, FLHT, FLHTC, FLHTCI, FLHTCUI, FLHR, FLHRI, FLHRCI and FLHP model motorcycles. 38672-01 This kit fits 2001 and later FXDWG2 model motorcycles. Kit Contents: QTY DESCRIPTION 1 O-ring, rubber 1 Cable, clutch 1 Pin, cable pivot 1 Grommet (Kit no. 38607-87A, 38660-00A and 38667-00 only) Installation NOTE A Service Manual for your motorcycle is available from your Harley-Davidson dealer. A SERVICE MANUAL IS NEEDED TO INSTALL THIS KIT. The rider’s safety depends upon the correct installation of this kit. If the procedure is not within your capabilities or you do not have the correct tools, have your Harley-Davidson dealer perform the installation. Improper installation of this kit could result in death or serious injury. 1. Refer to the Service Manual for your motorcycle model. Screw the cable adjuster all the way in to allow for maximum cable free play. 2. Remove clutch hand lever from hand-lever bracket at pivot pin. Remove original clutch cable from hand lever and transmission. Retain anchor pin bushings. 3. See Figure 1. Install lever end of new clutch cable. Position cable eyelet in clutch lever slot. Retain with new cable pivot pin through original bushings. NOTE See Figure 2. When routing cable on models where clutch cable passes through inner fairing (FLHTC, FLHTC-U and FLHTP with fairing), clutch cable eyelet may be too large to pass through clutch cable access hole in fairing. If this is the case, use the template supplied with this sheet to file out a hole to accommodate the new eyelet. Place the grommet included with kit no. 38607-87A, 38660-00A, and 38667-00 in the hole after filing. 4. Secure the clutch lever in the lever bracket with the lever pivot pin and retaining ring. 5. Follow steps outlined in the applicable Service Manual and install the transmission-end of the new cable with O- ring. 6. Adjust clutch cable according to procedure in Service Manual.
Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 07-03-2011
OPERATION 1. Remove cap from air suspension air valve and connect pump by threading the air valve adapter (1) on the pump as shown in Figure 1. When adapter is threaded properly, the current air pressure in the system will be indicated on the gauge of the pump. Do not exceed maximum air pressure for rear suspension. Air components fill rapidly. Therefore, use low air line pressure. Failure to do so may result in possible damage to components. (00165a) NOTES See the motorcycle’s Owner’s Manual or, if installed, the air suspension lowering kit’s instruction sheet for the recommended air pressures. Using pressures outside the recommended loading range will result in a reduction of available suspension travel and reduced rider comfort. 2. To increase pressure, operate the air pump handle (4) until the desired pressure is indicated on gauge (2). Use caution when bleeding air from the suspension. Moisture combined with lubricant may leak onto the rear wheel, tire and/or brake components and adversely affect traction, which could result in death or serious injury. (00084a) NOTE The pressure release button is designed to release pressure slowly. If the button is completely or rapidly depressed, no air will be released. For the best results, depress the pressure release button slowly and only partially. 3. To decrease pressure, slowly depress the pressure release button (3) on the pump until desired pressure is indicated on gauge (2)
Filed Under (Victory) by admin on 31-10-2010
1. Turn the key on and make sure the transmission is in neutral and ‘n’ is displayed on the readout. (Please leave the key ‘ON’ for about 5 seconds before continuing) 2. Turn the key off (.1 seconds) and then back on (1 second) again rapidly. The display should show 1 bar. If you wait too long before continuing the readout will exit the setup routine. (If the unit has already been cleared, it will immediately jump to step 6.) 3. Repeat step #2. The display should show 2 bars. 4. Repeat step #2. The display should show 3 bars. 5. Repeat step #2. The display should show 2 bars. 6. Repeat step #2. The display should show ‘n’ with a bar over it. If the display is upside down then kick the transmission out of neutral and the display will invert and show ‘C’. Tach adapter(for open-collector tach signal from ECM w/out pull-up resistor) ( 2004+ Victory motorcycles use this option , most other bikes use application on front page) VSS Notes: The PGR-1000 is designed for motorcycles with an Electronic VSS signal. Most modern motorcycles use a 3-wire hall-effect type speed sensor in the transmission with a power, ground, and a signal wire. The SEN-1019 is available for motorcycles without a factory VSS signal, fabrication will be required for sensor mounting
Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 27-02-2011
INSTALLATION 1. This lowering method requires replacement of the front spring spacers. This is a simple task, and is completely reversible. First, raise the front tire off of the ground before you begin. Raise the motorcycle so no weight is applied to the front wheel. 2. Cover the gas tank with a thick towel to prevent scratching. Don’t omit this…you’ll be sorry if you do! 3. If the handlebar risers are OEM (stock), loosen the handlebars in their clamps and lift them from the risers, carefully placing them on the gas tank on a thick towel to prevent scratching. This will allow room for the spring spacers to be removed from the front forks. 4. Using a small knife blade, sharp screw driver, etc. in the pinch grove on each side of the triple clamp, gently pry upwards and pop the chromed plastic covers off. These are the covers on the top of the front forks, covering the spring retainers. Below these chrome caps, you’ll find a gold anodized metal plug with a small counter bore in the center. This is the part used to retain the springs within the front fork tubes. Using an extension bar, large Phillips screwdriver, etc., press down a bit in the counter bored area of the plug to take the pressure off of the small internal “C” ring. While this “gold” colored plug is depressed, remove the internal C-ring. The C-ring is made of small diameter wire. Once the C-ring is removed, slowly release the pressure on the plug and it’ll push itself out of the top of the shock. The picture below is of the upper fork leg with the gold retaining plug removed. 5. Stick a finger into the fork tube, and slide the OEM tubular spacer up and out of the fork tube. 6. The picture below illustrates the use of a Scootworks lowering spacer with the fork spring. On the right hand end of the you’ll see a Scootworks lowering spacer. The fork spring stays in the front fork, and you’ll drop in the spacer with the desired amount of lowering. The approximate amount of lowering is marked on each Scootworks spacer. 7. Select the spacers for the desired amount of lowering. The longest spacers supplied are marked as  and will lower the front suspension 1″. The spacers of middle length are marked as  and will lower the front suspension by 2″. The shortest spacers supplied in the kit are marked as  and will lower the front suspension by 3″. Omission of the spacers completely will lower the front suspension by approximately 4″. 8. Install the selected spacers in the fork tubes, on top of the internal fork spring. Place the gold anodized metal plugs on top of the spacers and press them back into the fork tube. Be sure to turn the metal plug so the side with the counter bore is facing outwards. Reinstall the C-rings, and gently lower the front end back to the ground. Make sure the C-rings seat themselves in their respective grooves when the weight of the bike is placed back on the front end. Re-install the chrome caps.