carb screw settings for bayou 250

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KAWASAKI 1500 CARB THUNDER Air Filter Kit Installation And removal Instruction

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1) Remove Seat 10mm KAW 1500 CARB ADPTOR QTY PARTS LIST 1 1500 CARB ADAPTOR 1 3″ PIECE OF HOSE 1 DOUBLE BARB 1 L-BARB 1 3/8″ RED PLUG 1 ¼” BLACK VACCUM PLUG 1 M6-1 NYLON INSERT LOCK NUT 3 M6-1 X 16 FLAT SOCKET HD CAP SCREW 1 170 MJ 1 INSTRUCTIONS 2) Remove Dash Plaque 8mm bottom Bolt only 3) Lift from bottom then Remove speedo cable 4) Disconnect Electric Plugs 5) Remove 12mm bolts holding tank 6) Turn petcock OFF – Pinch off fuel line. 7) Disconnect the electric Plug under speedo opening 8) Lift Tank at Rear – Disconnect two Vent Lines; Fuel gage Vent will Pull up – Remove. 9) Remove Chrome Air Cover. 10) Left side Remove two screws – 10mm bolt in side Air box. Pull hoses off Remove 1″ hose going to cross over Tube. 11) Remove two 8mm bolts on Bracket – Remove Bracket 12) Remove Screw on Top of air Box Snorkel 13) Remove both side covers 14) Remove air Backing plate right side (Crank Case Breather hose that connects to stock air box will connect to new) 15) Remove Bracket that holds Carb and holds Backing Plate 16) Take idle adjustable Knob loose – let hang loose 17) Take Choke Knob out of holding Bracket 18) Hose that went to cross over tube MAY BE PLUGGED OR VENTED your Choice (Fresh air unit) ** 98′S or any models with carb warmer should disconnect carb warmer by pinching off line on each side of connector that plugs into carb on bottom. Small bracket with one screw directly on the bottom of carb. 19) Loosen Clamp that holds Carb to intake Manifold, Carb will hang loose 20) Remove intake Manifold 5mm Allen- Remove crossover tube. 21) (- BE CAREFULL-) LINE IT UP RIGHT- Replace intake Manifold (YOU MAY TO SEAL THIS WITH A SEALER LIKE PERMATEX) ( BE SUPER CAREFUL TO KEEP INTAKE COVERED DURING EACH STEP. SCREWS CAN FALL ONTO INTAKE) 22) Drain Float Bowl 3mm allen – very bottom of carb 23) Remove Float Bowl 4 screws (#2 Phillips) let hang down 24) Remove main jet, if Emulsion tube comes out use 8mm and Flat tip to separate jet from Emulsion tube. 25) Install with new jet 26) CAREFULLY Reinstall Float Bowl Cover 27) If installing Needle Remove Top Cover of Carb, Carefully pull the slide out. ( BE CAREFUL WITH DIAPHRAM) Remove Spring + Needle Install new Needle (WE RECOMMEND THE 3RD CLIP FROM TOP WITH TWO WASHERS ON TOP. REINSTALL 28) Be sure to reseat diaphragm – BE CAREFUL Reinstall Cover. 29) Install Carb to Intake – reconnect carb warmer if applicable 30) Reattach idle adjustment 31) Reattach Choke 32) Reattach Bracket in front of Carb- 33) Take Center bolt mount Rubber Gromlet from Stock Air box Plate install in to new Air box Adapter use stock Bolt, Attach to Bracke

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How To Adjust the Accelerator Pump On the 40mm Mikuni Carburetor

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 21-01-2012

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1) The “blue” colored screw in the image is the duration adjustment screw. Underneath the head of the screw is a lock nut and the bracket arm that the screw is threaded into. To decrease the amount of fuel squirted the adjustment screw is turned “clockwise” or in. To increase the amount of fuel squirted the adjustment screw is turned “counter clockwise” or out. To get the max, amount of decrease remove the screw and take the lock nut off of the screw. Then replace the screw into the cam arm, then replace the lock nut underneath the arm on the screw. this gives you another 3/32″ of an inch in which the screw can be screwed in.
2) Turn the adjustment screw fully clockwise or IN. Start your engine, Blip your throttle open, if the engine stutters, (hesitates), it is not getting enough fuel so turn the screw counter clockwise to increase the amount of fuel squirted from the accelerator pump into the carburetor. Keep blipping the throttle and adjusting the screw till the carburetor starts to cough. Stop here and turn the screw back in till the coughing stops. Tighten down the lock nut. This should give you the best throttle response with the least amount of coughing and backfiring out the carburetor. Timing Adjustment Screw This is the “Green” colored screw just above the Blue duration adjustment screw. The” Mucker” said it best,,,,, This upper screw adjusts the “timing” of the squirt. By altering it’s setting, you can advance or delay the onset of the fuel squirt. But probably, it won’t have to be touched

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Kawasaki Ninja 250 FAQ

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 15-11-2010

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Am I too small for this motorcycle? Duke – Sun May 14 17:38:31 2000 I’m only about 5’2″ and don’t have a problem, even though I can only touch the ground with the ends of my toes. Once you get a feel for the balance of the bike it’s not hard to keep everything upright. Only place I have trouble is pushing the bike backwards in a parking lot. Usually I just walk the bike (beside it) to where I can get on and get going. How does the EX500 compare to the EX250? Craig M. – Mon May 22 10:23:29 2000 I have both the EX250 and the EX500; both are Y2K models. The 250 is a screamer that performs well and can easily get me into trouble. My only complaints about the 250 are the excessive nose dive when getting on the front brake hard and the skittishness of the rear during high speed cornering. Both are easily corrected with suspension adjustments, I’ve just been too lazy to get the parts and do the work. A bit more wind protection would be great too. The 500 addresses these problems, the diving of the front end (to a degree); the rear’s skittishness and the wind protection. A plus for the 500 is the greater torque and power off the line; it pulls stronger (in my opinion) and will get you into illegal speed territory just a bit quicker than the 250. With greater weight, is has more stability in high speed and windy situations. Insurance is just about the same for both, with the 250 getting the nod for gas mileage. Service requirements are almost identical for both as well, being that they’re both parallel twins, the technology is the virtually the same. The downfalls of the 500: $2K more than the 250 (can do a lot to the 250 with that kind of money); buzzy mirrors, barely useful; heavier weight to have to push around the garage; lesser gas mileage (55-60 MPG; 250 pushes 70 MPG easily); engine is worse than a nervous dog shaking around at idle and at speed (here the 250 is far superior and much smoother). In my opinion, the 500 is a better suited for a larger rider, from a comfort standpoint. I feel I can stretch out a bit more on it than the 250 (I’m 5′ 9″, 160 lbs). The 250′s brakes are better tuned than the 500 and the shifter is much smoother. That may be due to the 3,500 mile difference between the two bikes. Bottom line, both bikes are great, the 250 is now my wife’s ride (mainly) and the 500′s mine (unless she steals the keys away). In time, I’ll make the adjustments to the 250; she doesn’t push it like I do.

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2008 KTM 250 SX-F 250 XC-F, XCF-W 250 EXC-F, EXC-F SIX DAYS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 22-10-2010

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Hand brake lever The hand brake lever [1] is mounted on the handlebars on the right and actuates the front wheel brake. The adjusting screw [A] can be used to change the basic position of the hand brake lever (see “Maintenance”). 1 A Short circuit button The short circuit button [2] turns off the engine. When pressing this button, the ignition circuit is short-circuited. 2 Headlamp switch (XCF-W) In this model the headlamp is switched on with the pull switch [5] . 5 Flasher switch The flasher switch is a separate unit and is mounted on the left portion of the handlebar. The wire harness is designed in a way that whenever you want to use your bike off-road, you can dismount the entire turn indicator system without affecting the function of the remaining electrical system. Flasher left Flasher right
OPERATION INSTRUMENTS » ENGLISH 7 1 2 3 4 5 Starter button Pushing the red starter button [1] will actuate the E-starter. Emergency OFF switch (EXC-F Australia) The red emergency-OFF switch [2] is arranged adjacent to the throttle grip. In this position, the E-starter is operational and the engine can be started. In this position, the E-starter and ignition circuits are interrupted.The E-starter cannot be actuated, and the engine will not start, not even if you attempt to start it with the kickstarter. Pushing the black starter button [3] will actuate the E-starter. Indicator lamps The green control lamp [4] flashes in the same rhythm as the flashing indicator when the indicator is working. The blue control lamp [5] lights up when the high beam is on. TEST All of the display segments briefly light up for the display function test. Electronic speedometer The display in the electronic speedometer is activated as soon as you press a button on the speedometer or an impulse is received from the wheel sensor. The display lights up when the engine is running. The display is cleared if no button is pressed for 1 minute or no impulse is received from the wheel sensor. The button is used to change between display modes. The + and – buttons are used to control various functions

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HW Prowler Carburetor Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Mikuni) by admin on 31-10-2010

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1. Remove both seats and the plastic seat pans under the seats. 2. Remove the engine cover 3. Remove the air-box by removing the cross-bar support that runs under the air-box to the framing on each side by the seat framing and disconnect the air box from the carburetor and from the plastic intake in the rear. 4. Disconnect the engine breather hose from the bottom of the air box 5. Set the air-box to the side 6. Disconnect the plug going to the stock carburetor, this is the electronic choke. Wrap the end left on the vehicle with electrical tape. 7. Cut the fuel line just above the fitting on the passenger side of the carb 8. Remove the side cover off the drivers side of the carb where the throttle cable goes in, see fig. #1 9. Pull the throttle cable out and then remove the throttle cable end from the throttle plate See Fig. #2 10. Loosen the clamp on the rear of the carb holding the carb on 11. Pull the carb out of the intake boot 12. Set OE carb to the side. 13. Push the new Carb into the intake boot making sure the carb is perfectly vertical and then tighten the clamp back up. The new carb is slightly larger than the stock one so some additional pressure will be needed to get it in. 14. Route all the breather lines connected to the carb down under the carb. 15. Connect the throttle cable onto the new carb but putting the cable end in the bottom hole of the throttle plate on the passenger side of the carb allowing the cable to ride in the slot in the plate and then turn the throttle plate clock wise allowing the threaded end of the cable to fit into the lower round hole of the throttle cable connection plate. See Fig. #3 16. Make sure you have a nut on each side of the plate turn the nut on the outside of the plate to take up the slack in the throttle cable then tighten the nut on the inside of the plate. See Fig. #3 17. Push the fuel line onto the fuel inlet on the passenger side of the carb and install the supplied clamp to hold it on. The fuel line will be a little hard to push on. 18. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO INSTALL THE CHOKE CABLE PARTS SUPPLIED IN THE KIT UNTIL AFTER THE CHOKE CABLE ITSELF IS INSTALLED AND READY TO SCREW INTO THE CARBUETOR. 19. To install the supplied choke cable, drill a 3/8″ hole in the dash on the left side of the steering wheel in a location convenient to your left hand. 20. Remove the plastic nut from the bottom of the choke handle on the choke cable. 21. Push the choke cable thru the hole you drilled and then slide the nut over the cable to the inside of the dash and reinstall back on the back of the choke mechanism. Some dash screws maybe needed to be removed to accomplish this

KTM 250/ 300/ 380 SX,MXC,EXC ENGINE REPAIR MANUAL

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 12-11-2010

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Repair manual KTM 250 / 300 / 380 Art No 3206004 -E 2-2C main jet jet needle jet needle air control screw idle adjusting screw idle jet throttle valve Idling range A Operation with closed throttle valve. This range is influenced by the position of the air control screw 1 and the idle adjusting screw 2 . Only make adjustments when the engine is hot. To this end, slightly increase the idling speed of the engine by means of the idle adjusting screw. Turning it clockwise produces a higher idling speed and turning the screw counterclockwise produces a lower idling speed. Create a round and stable engine speed using the air control screw (basic position of the air control screw = open by 1.5 turns). Then adjust to the normal idling speed by means of the idle adjusting screw. Opening up B Engine behavior when the throttle opens. The idle jet and the shape of the throttle valve influences this range. If, despite good idling-speed and part-throttle setting, the engine sputters and smokes when the throttle is fully opened and develops its full power not smoothly but suddenly at high engine speeds, the mixture to the carburetor will be too rich, the fuel level too high or the float needle is leaking. Part-throttle range C Operation with partly open throttle valve. This range is only influenced by the jet needle (shape and position). The optimum part-throttle setting is controlled by the idling setting in the lower range and by the main jet in the upper range. If the engine runs on a four-stroke cycle or with reduced power when it is accelerated with the throttle partly open, the jet needle must be lowered by one notch. If then the engine pings, especially when accelerating under full power at maximum engine revs, the jet needle should be raised. If these faults should occur at the lower end of the part throttle range at a four-stroke running, make the idling range leaner; if the engine pings, adjust the idling range richer. Full throttle range D Operation with the throttle fully open (flat out). This range is influenced by the main jet and the jet needle. If the porcelain of the new spark plug is found to have a very bright or white coating or if the engine rings, after a short distance of riding flat out, a larger main jet is required. If the porcelain is dark brown or black with soot the main jet must be replaced by a smaller one. mixture too rich: too much fuel in proportion to air mixture too lean: not enough fuel in proportion to air 1 2 OPERATING RANGES OF THE CARBURETOR 2-3C Carburetor adjustment Basic information on the original carburetor setting The original carburetor setting was adapted for an altitude of approx. 500 meters (1600 ft.) above sea level, and the ambient temperature of approx. 20°C (68°F), mainly for off-road use and central European premium-grade fuel (ROZ 95 MOZ). Mixing ratio 2-stroke motor oil : super fuel 1:40 – 1:60. Basic information on a change of the carburetor setting Always start out from the original carburetor setting. Essential requirements are a clean air filter system, air-tight exhaust system and an intact carburetor. Experience has shown that adjusting the main jet, the idling jet and the jet needle is sufficient and that changes of other parts of the carburetor will not greatly affect engine performance. RULE OF THUMB:

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BMW R1200RT Sport/ Touring 1100X Kit Installation Manual

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 17-12-2010

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Step 1 — Locate ‘mold circle’ indentation on each side fairing panel (Pic 1). With panel mounted on bike, this indentation is center, at rear inside panel edge, and faces inside. Temporarily install bracket as shown in (Pic 2), align bottom bracket hole over indentation and mark for hole. Remove brackets at this time. Step 2 — Remove fairing body side panels. Four screws per side required for removal, see owners manual. Drill a 3/8″ hole at mark. If harness kit has not been installed, do not re-install left side panel until finished unless you remove tank to install harness. Removal of the tank is the best option to route harness from battery area to front of the bike. Step 3 — As required, re-install fairing body side panels. Do not re-install the top factory inner panel Torx Screw yet, as you will re-use this screw to secure the top light bracket mounting hole to the fairing panel. Step 4 — Using 10/32×1/2 screws and black shoulder washers from Hardware package, secure lights to PIAA Ezy-Mount® brackets (See Pics 3 & 4). Right side bracket is stamped ‘EZY-MOUNT’. See note below for Powersports lights. Due to close proximity of the light body to fairing side panel, access to the vertical adjustment screw on the panel side of the light will not be possible after installation. To prepare for this; before installing bracket/light assembly to panel, make sure this screw is tightened so that you can barely move the light body. After bracket is installed, final vertical adjustment can be secured with the inside screw. Torque on this screw is adequate to hold vertical adjustment, and the screw that faces the panel will not come loose. NOTE: WHEN INSTALLING POWERSPORTS LIGHTS, YOU MUST INSERT THE SHOULDER ADAPTER WASHER INTO THE LIGHT FOOT, BEFORE INSERTING SCREW TO SECURE LIGHT FOOT TO BRACKET. THIS ADAPTER CENTERS LIGHT FOOT OVER PEMNUT (TIGHTEN THIS SCREW SECURELY). Step 5 — Insert well nut into previously drilled 3/8″ hole. Place bracket assembly against fairing, aligning top hole with the top fairing mounting position; re-install the factory Torx screw at this location. Adjust as necessary and install the second supplied SS 10/32 x 5/8 Torx screw thru the lower bracket mounting hole to the well nut. With constant pressure on the screw, tighten securely. Constant pressure ensures that the rear expandable section of the well nut captures the back of the plastic inner panel as you tighten the screw. Future removal of fairing panels is now possible with light assembly installed (utilizing the bottom bracket mounting screw), thus re-alignment of lights is not required after normal maintenance.

HARLEY DAVIDSON FLSTN SADDLEBAG GUARD KIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 06-03-2011

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REMOVAL All Models 1. If equipped with saddlebags, removal may ease installation. Follow the instructions in the appropriate Service Manual or Instruction Sheet. 2. See Figure 1. Remove and discard the forwardmost fender support bolt (1). Repeat for the other side. 3. See Figure 2. On the left side, remove the footrest support mounting bolt (1) and footrest support bracket assembly (2). Discard the mounting bolt. 2005 – 2006 Models 1. Loosen the exhaust shields as necessary following the instructions in the appropriate Service Manual. Move as necessary for access. 2. Loosen the exhaust header nuts following the instructions in the appropriate Service Manual. 3. See Figure 3. Remove bolt (1) connecting the exhaust system (2) to the support bracket (3). 4. See Figure 4. Remove the two rear muffler bracket bolts (1). 5. See Figure 5. Move mufflers enough to access the rear bolt attaching the exhaust mounting bracket to the frame. Remove bolt (1) and discard. 2007 – Later Models NOTE On 2007 – later models, the frame tab (4) has a plug instead of a bolt (see Figure 6, item 1). 1. Remove plug and discard. 1 is05313 1. Fender support bolt (discard) Figure 1. Remove Docking Hardware 1 2 is05320 1. Footrest support mounting bolt 2. Footrest support bracket assembly Figure 2. Footrest Support Bracket Assembl NSTALLATION Right Side See Figure 5 or Figure 6. 1. See Figure 7. Install upper screw (7) in the fender support. Tighten screw finger-tight. 2. Install the lower screw (4 or 5) with the saddlebag guard, washer (9) and locknut (6) inside the frame. Tighten screw finger-tight. 3. Tighten the upper screw to 30 ft-lbs (41 Nm) . 4. Tighten the lower screw to 40 ft-lbs (54 Nm) . Tighten nut to 30 ft-lbs (41 Nm) . 5. 2005 – 2006 Models: a. Loosely install the exhaust header bolts. b. See Figure 4. Loosely install two rear muffler bracket bolts (1). c. See Figure 3. Loosely install bolt securing exhaust system (2) to support bracket (3). d. Tighten exhaust header bolts following the instructions in the appropriate Service Manual. e. Tighten support bracket bolt and rear muffler bracket bolts following the instructions in the appropriate Service Manual. f. Tighten exhaust shields following the instructions in the appropriate Service Manual. 6. Install saddlebag (if removed) following the instructions in the appropriate Service Manual or Instruction Sheet. 1 2 3 4 is05333 1. Lower saddlebag guard screw 2. Upper saddlebag guard screw 3. Saddlebag guard 4. Exhaust support bracket Figure 5. Install Saddlebag Guard – Right Side Shown (2005 Models) -J04645 2 of 4
2 1 3 4 is05332 1. Lower saddlebag guard screw 2. Upper saddlebag guard screw 3. Saddlebag guard 4. Frame tab Figure 6. Install Saddlebag Guard – Right Side Shown (2007-Later Models) Left Side 1. Loosely install upper screw (7) through the saddlebag guard and the fender support. NOTE Spacer (8) must be installed with the chamfer facing out. 2. See Figure 7. For 2005-2006 Models: Install lower screw (3) through the saddlebag guard, saddlebag guard spacer (8), footpeg support and the frame. Tighten to 30 ft-lbs (41 Nm) . For 2007 and later Models: Install lower screw (10) through the saddlebag guard, footpeg support and the frame. Tighten to 30 ft-lbs (41 Nm) . 3. Tighten upper screw to 30 ft-lbs (41 Nm)

KTM 125/ 200/ 250/ 300 SX, MXC, EXC SERVICE MANUAL

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 28-11-2010

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Compression damping of shock absorber (MXC, EXC) The compression damping (during compression) can be adjusted for the MXC and EXC shock absorbers (Mono Compression Control). The degree of damping can be adjusted by turning adjusting screw 1 with a screwdriver. Turning in a clockwise direction will increase the damping, turning in a counterclockwise direction will decrease the damping. STANDARD ADJUSTMENT: -Turn the adjusting screw clockwise to the stop. -Then turn the adjusting screw counterclockwise, counting the number of clicks that corresponds to the respective type of shock absorber. Type White Power 1218X757…………..17 clicks Type White Power 1218X759…………..17 clicks * WARNING * THE DAMPING UNIT OF THE SHOCK ABSORBER IS FILLED WITH HIGH – COMPRESSION NITROGEN . NEVER TRY TO TAKE THE SHOCK ABSORBER APART OR TO DO ANY MAINTEN – ANCE WORK YOURSELF . SEVERE INJURIES COULD BE THE RESULT . NEVER UNSCREW THE BLACK SCREW 2 CONNECTION (24 MM ). Rebound damping of shock absorber (SX, MXC, EXC) By using the adjusting screw 3 , the degree of damping of the rebound can be adjusted. Turn the knob to the right side to increase damping, turn it to the left side to reduce damping during rebounding. STANDARD ADJUSTMENT: -Turn the adjusting screw clockwise to the stop. -Then turn the adjusting screw counterclockwise, counting the number of clicks that corresponds to the respective type of shock absorber. Type White Power 1218X756…………..28 clicks Type White Power 1218X757…………..28 clicks Type White Power 1218X759…………..26 clicks * WARNING * THE DAMPING UNIT OF THE SHOCK ABSORBER IS FILLED WITH HIGH – COMPRESSION NITROGEN . N EVERTRYTOTAKETHESHOCKABSORBERAPARTORTODOANYMAINTE – NANCE WORK YOURSELF . SEVERE INJURIES COULD BE THE RESULT . NEVER UNSCREW THE BLACK SCREW 4 CONNECTION (15 MM )

HARLEY DAVIDSON SADDLEBAG SUPPORT (DRESSER BAR) KIT CHROME INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 18-03-2011

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INSTALLATION To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect negative (-) battery cable before proceeding. (00048a) 1. Refer to the Service Manual and follow the instructions to remove the seat and disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the saddlebags. Refer to SADDLEBAG REMOVAL in the Service Manual. NOTE See Figure 1. Item 12 covers saddlebag side rails, front guard and lower support removal for FLHT/C/CI/CUI, FLTR/I, FLHR/C and FLHR/I/CI models and item 13 cover removal for lower saddlebag support and front guard for FLHR/I/CI models. 3. See Figure 1. Gently pull one side cover (1) from the frame downtubes (no tools are required). 4. Remove the 5/16-18 hex head screws (not shown) and lockwashers (not shown) that secure the muffler to the muffler support (2). Save the muffler mount bracket, rubber mount from the old saddlebag lower support, 5/16-18 hex head screws and lockwashers. 5. With a T-40 TORX® driver, remove and discard the outside 5/16-18 TORX pan head screw (3) and 5/16-18 locknut (4) that secure the lower saddlebag support to the rear bumper and fender support. 6. Remove and discard the inside 5/16-18 locknut (5). Leave in, the inside 5/16-18 TORX pan head screw (6), to keep alignment TORX driver, remove and discard the 3/8- 16 TORX pan heaof the rear bumper rail to the rear bumper and fender support. 7. With a T-40 TORX driver, remove and discard 5/16-18 TORX pan head screws (7) that secure the horizontal side rail saddlebag guards to the fender mounting support. 8. With a T-40 d screw (8) and 3/8-16 locknut (9) that fastens the lower flange of the front saddlebag guard to the motorcycle frame. 9. With a T-40 TORX driver, remove and discard the 3/8- 16 TORX pan head screw (10) that fastens the upper flange of the front saddlebag guard to the frame. Remove the saddlebag guard with the rails and discard. 10. Repeat Steps 3 through 9 for the opposite side. 11. See Figure 2. The new chrome saddlebag supports are side-specific. Take the chrome left (1) (not shown) or right (2) side support from the kit and place it in position on the vehicle frame. Insert a 3/8-16 x 7/8 in long TORX pan head screw (5) and 3/8-16 locknut (6) from the kit through the front flange of the new support and into the vertical frame tube. Do not tighten the screw at this time. 12. Obtain the 5/16-18 x 1in long TORX hex socket screw (3) and 5/16-18 locknut (4) from the kit. Insert screw through the outside hole (A) mounting tab on bumper and fender bracket and also through rear flange in new support and thread locknut onto screw and finger tighten. 13. See Figure 1. Remove old screw (6) from the inside hole of bracket. See Figure 2. From the kit, insert new 5/16-18 screw (4) into the inside hole (B) of bracket and thread locknut (5) on screw. 14. Tighten the front screw, then the rear screws and locknuts to 15-20 ft lbs (20.3-27.1 Nm) . 15. Install the muffler mount bracket and rubber mount saved from Step 4, into the new lower chrome support bracket (8). 16. Secure the muffler to the new chrome support bracket (8) with 5/16-18 hex head screws and 5/16 lockwashers (not shown) saved from Step 4. 17. Tighten the screws and locknuts to 15-20 ft lbs (20.3-27.1 Nm) . 18. Repeat Steps 11 through 16 for the opposite side

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