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KTM Enduro Engineering Shock Spring Removal And Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 12-11-2010

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1 Place motorcycle on a stand so that the rear wheel is off the ground. 2 Remove the upper shock bolt. (Figure 1) 3 Remove the lower shock bolt. (Figure 2) 4 Remove the shock from the motorcycle by sliding it down and out the right rear side of the bike. (Figure 3) 5 Place the shock upside down in a vice with soft jaws. Loosen the retaining ring lock screw with a 4mm Allen wrench. (Figure 4) 6 Using EE KTM shock wrench #22-300 (Figure 5), loosen the retaining collar enough to provide ¾ clearance between the bottom of the spring and the spring retaining collar. (Figure 6) 7 Push the spring retaining collar down to access the retaining clip. (Figure 7) 8 Remove the retaining clip. 9 Remove the spring retaining collar by sliding it up and off of the shock clevis. (Figure 8) 10 Slide the shock spring up and off of the shock. 11 Slide the new spring onto the shock. It should be sitting on the adjusting collar. 12 Re-install the spring retaining collar by sliding it over the clevis far enough to allow the retaining clip to be installed. 13 Install the retaining clip. Make sure that it is fully seated in the groove. 14 Slide the spring retaining collar up until it bottoms out on the retaining clip. 15 Tighten the spring adjusting collar until the bottom of the spring contacts the spring retaining collar. Turn the spring adjusting collar a couple more turns to put a small amount of pre-load on the spring. 16 Remove the shock from the vice and re-install it on the bike by reversing removal steps. Make sure to torque the upper and lower shock bolts to the manufacturer’s torque spec. 17 Set static and race sag as specified in your owner’s manual. Remember to torque the adjusting collar lock screw to manufacturer’s specification

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Honda ATV 650 Lift Kit REMOVAL AND Installation

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 14-01-2012

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Place jack under center on the ATV front end and lift until front wheels clear the ground. Be careful to support ATV properly so that it is secure, but so that the A-arms and shocks can droop to full extension. 2. Remove front wheels and shocks. 3. Using a shock spring compressor, compress the spring on the shock and remove the spring retaining ring.
CAUTION: The spring is installed under tension. Failure to use a shock spring compressor could cause loss of control of the spring, which could unload rapidly causing bodily injury. If you do not have a shock spring compressor you should acquire one or take it to a dealer or professional mechanic for installation of the stiffeners. 4. Remove the spring. 5. Insert the smaller front spring stiffener onto the shock with the lip of the spring stop, on the shock, mating into the recessed portion of the spring stiffener. 6. Slide the spring back onto the shock and it should rest on the lip of the spring stiffener.
7. Reattach the spring retaining ring. 8. Repeat steps for the opposite side. Once springs are complete reattach the top of the shock to the top shock mount on the ATV and the spring stiffener will be closest to the A-arm. 9. Take two of the “L” brackets and connect them to the bottom of the shock, the part that connects to the A-arms. 10. There is a top and bottom to the “L” bracket. See the diagram

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HONDA 450E/ S MOUNTING AND ARS ADJUSTMENT INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 24-12-2011

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MULTI-RATE SPRINGS AND THE ARS SYSTEM Depending on the application dual–rate springs are fitted on the shocks. Dual-rate springs are just that– a spring set with two separate rates. This is done with a short spring stacked on a longer spring. As both springs collapse they produce a soft, or initial, rate. The spring set will maintain this initial rate until the short spring stops compressing. At that point, the spring rate “crosses over” to the stiffer, or final, rate. This multi-rate system allows a soft initial rate for comfort on small bumps, but has the capability of soaking up the big pot-holes and other off road hazards. ARS stands for Adjustable Rate Suspension. ARS is available on some dual-rate spring 4-wheel ATV shocks. ARS differs from spring preload. The ARS system allows the rider to increase or decrease the load-carrying capacity of the shocks by turning a lever. Depending on the application and spring set, the rider can increase the load capacity of the shocks up to 50 percent. The average preloader that makes a half-inch increase in preload will HONDA 450E/S MOUNTING & ARS ADJUSTMENT INSTRUCTIONS Continued on next page. #TRX450 – 5/28/99 #TRX450 – 5/28/99 Fig. 1. Front shock installation. Note that the shock body is at the top with the shaft pointing down. ARS shown is in the unloaded position. Fig. 2. Rear shock mounting with ARS. Position the lever so that it will not come in contact with any vehicle parts around it. The cup can be rotated to reposition the lever if necessary.
increase the capacity of the shocks to only about 5 to 10 percent. ARS allows the shocks to be correct for solo riding, but still handle the increased weight of an added load. ARS can also be employed to stiffen the rates for aggressive riding. The ARS system consists of an indexing lever and a stepped cup that contains the short spring of the dual- rate. The position of the lever in relation to the steps in the cup determines how long the spring set remains on the soft, or initial, spring rate. On most ARS applications, four positions can be selected from full stiff to full soft. Indexing is done in a matter of seconds by rotating the lever or the cup by hand. Indexing the cup to the lever is usually preferable to avoid interference. Adjustment of the ARS system should only be made while the vehicle is unloaded to reduce the load on the springs. NOTE: It is important to make sure that a step in the cup is positioned directly over the tang on the lever. This will prevent damage to the cup and/or lever that can be caused by making partial contact between the tang and a step. In addition, make sure that the lever will not contact any vehicle parts around it, as the suspension moves up. TUNING TIPS—The “softest” setting on the ARS does not mean that the ride will be the most comfortable at that setting. It means that this is the softest spring setting which would be employed on smooth trails or without a load. Excessive suspension bottoming caused by rough conditions or by the addition of a large load will cause a harsh ride when the shock is adjusted to this setting. To eliminate this bottoming, adjust the ARS to the stiffer positions for a more comfortable ride. Hence, sometimes “stiffer is softer.” NITROGEN PRESSURES IN EMULSION SHOCKS

HARLEY DAVIDSON FL SOFTAIL PROFILE LOW FRONT SUSPENSION KIT INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 30-11-2010

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Fork Spring Removal 1. Elevate and support the vehicle so the front tire is off the floor and the forks are fully extended. 4 9 3 1 10 11 2 5 6 7 8 is04004 1. Slider tube cap 2. Spacer washer 3. Oil seal 4. Clamp bolt and washer 5. Fork tube plug 6. O-ring 7. Fork spring 8. Tight-wound end of spring 9. Fork slider tube 10. Fork slider 11. Drain screw and washer Figure 1. Front Fork NOTE Remove the brake caliper from the fork slider. DO NOT remove the brake line from the caliper. 2. Remove the front wheel. See FRONT WHEEL: FLSTC/FLSTF/FLSTN in the Service Manual. 3. Remove the front fender. See FRONT FENDER in the Service Manual. 4. See Figure 1. Remove the slider tube cap (1), spacer (2) and oil seal (3) from the top of one fork side. Save the cap and spacer. The oil seal can be discarded. 5. Loosen the clamp bolt (4) and pull the fork from the brackets. 6. Repeat Steps 4 and 5 for the other fork side. -J00280 1 of 4 Wear saf ety glasses or gog gles when ser vicing f ork assembly. Do not remove slider tube caps without relieving spring preload or caps and springs can fly out, which could result in death or serious injury. (00297a) NOTE Be careful not to damage the O-ring. 7. See Figure 1. Remove the fork tube plug (5) and O-ring (6). Pull the spring (7) out of the slider tube (9). Remove the drain screw and washer (11), and drain the fork. Reinstall the drain screw and washer, and tighten to 52-78 in-lbs (5.9-8.9 Nm). 8. Repeat Step 7 for the other fork side. NOTE The Profile® Low Front Suspension Kit requires a different amount of H-D TYPE E FORK OIL than is listed in the Service Manual. NOTE Measure the oil level from the top of the fork tube with the fork spring removed and the fork fully compressed. 9. See FRONT FORK OIL in the Service Manual, but substitute the measures below. Fill the forks with Harley- Davidson TYPE E FORK OIL: • 1986 through 1999 models: •11.7 oz (345 cc) of oil, or •5.2 inch (132 mm) from top of oil level to top of tube. • 2000 and later models: •13.4 oz (396 cc) of oil, or •4.1 inch (104 mm) from top of oil level to top of tube. Fork Spring Installation 1. Insert a new Profile Low spring (7) from the kit into each slider tube (9), with the tight-wound portion (8) toward the bottom of the fork slider. NOTE Be careful not to damage the O-ring. 2. Install the fork tube plug (5) and O-ring (6) assembly into the slider tube and tighten securely. Be sure that one flat on each fork tube plug faces toward the inside of the fork. 3. Insert both fork side assemblies up through the slider covers, the fork stem and bracket, and the upper bracket. 4. Obtain two new oil seals (3), H-D Part Number 45733-48, and the spacer washers (2) and slider tube caps (1) saved earlier. Place an oil seal, followed by a spacer washer, onto each fork tube plug. 5. Insert the threads of a slider tube cap through each washer and seal, and into the fork tube plugs. Tighten to 40-60 ft- lbs (54.2-81.3 Nm). 6. Tighten the fork stem bracket clamp bolts (4) to 30-35 ft- lbs (40.7-47.5 Nm). 7. Install the front fender. See FRONT FENDER in the Service Manual. Install the front wheel and brake caliper. See FRONT WHEEL: FLSTC/FLSTF/FLSTN in the Service Manual. Jiffy Stand Removal/Installation 1. Move the jiffy stand to the retracted (up) position. Wear safety glasses or goggles when removing or installing spring. Spring tension can cause spring, attached components and/or hand tools to fly out which could result in death or serious injury. (00477c) 2. See Figure 3. Unfasten the jiffy stand leg spring (A) from the vehicle. Remove the hex bolt (B), lock washer (C), flat washer (D) and leg stop (E) from the threaded end of the jiffy stand leg. Discard the jiffy stand leg, but retain all other components. 3. Clean and inspect the jiffy stand attaching parts and mounting bracket for wear or damage. If parts replacement is necessary, refer to the Jiffy Stand section of your Service Manual for replacement procedures

Yamaha Road Star Forward Control Kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 08-11-2010

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Before starting to assemble this forward kit on your motorcycle check the packing list to make sure that the kit you received is the correct one for your model motorcycle and that the foot pegs are the style you ordered (billet or ISO). Next check the contents hardware kit P.N.0109-1000 against the packing list for completeness. Installing The Shift Control Photo 1 Remove wires from horn. Remove the two hex head bolts (Save for later installation) that mount the OEM shift controls to your motorcycle. Unthread stock shift rod at trans shift arm, leaving OEM rod end connected to stock shift arm. Using Original Metric hardware, place a drop of Loctite #242 (blue) to the bolt threads and mount the shift control plate to the motorcycle frame, Photo 2. FORWARD CONTROL KIT PM SHIFT CONTROL ASSEMBLY Note Before torquing the shift control mounting bolts down, tighten them snug and look behind the shift control mounting plate to where it contacts the mounting lug on the frame. Make sure it fits squarely to the lug before proceeding further. Torque the two shift control mounting bolts down to 25 ft-lb. Using a 3/8″ x 1″ hex head bolt with a lock and flat washer put a drop of Loctite #242 (blue) on the threads and insert the bolt through the rear of the control mounting plate and attach the foot-peg pivot to it. Tighten the bolt while holding the footpeg pivot so that its hinge is lined up in a 45˚ rear facing angle. Thread supplied shift rod coupler to stock shift rod end at trans arm. Mount the shift pedal to the other end of the shift ro d using a 5/16″ x 1″ socket head screw and Nylocnut . Adjust the transmission shift linkage so that the shift arm on the forward controls and the shift arm on the transmission are parallel. Secure it with the jam nuts. Apply a drop of Loctite #242 (blue) to the threads under the jam nut before tightening see Photo 3 After you have assembled the shift control onto your motorcycle you must align the footpeg. The folding footpeg assembly uses a blind stud to attach the footpeg to the footpeg pivot. Shim washers (3/8″ x .015″) are used on the stud between the footpeg and the pivot, see Photo 4, so that the top surface of the footpeg is correctly aligned for your foot when it is tightened down on the pivot. This is done by setting a couple of shim washers on the footpeg mounting stud “A” and then screwing the footpeg onto the mounting stud, if the footpeg is rotated to far forward then add another shim washer, if not far enough then remove a shim washer. After you have the selected the correct number of shims for your footpeg, disassemble the footpeg and put a drop of Loctite #271 (red) on both ends of the stud and reassemble the footpeg. This will also need to be done on the brake control footpeg. Setting Up the Master Cylinder The master cylinder pushrod return spring and pushrod boot must be installed on the master cylinder before it is assembled onto the forward control mount. The parts are shown in Photo 5: pushrod boot (A), pushrod return spring (B), spring seat washer (C), and master cylinder (D). Place the return spring seat washer into bore of master cylinder so that is sits on top of the piston retaining snap ring. Next set the pushrod return spring on the seat washer and slide the pushrod boot over the return spring now slip the big end of the boot over the flange on the master cylinder so that the ridge on the inside of the boot fits into groove “A” that is machined into the end of the master cylinder flange, see Photo 6. Installing The Brake Control Unplug stock brake light switch at master cylinder. Remove brake line from rear caliper. Remove the existing brake controls from your motorcycle down to the control mounting lug that is welded on to the frame’s right side, see Photo 8. Save Metric hardware for later use. A Shim Washer PHOTO 4 A B C D PHOTO 5 A PHOTO 6 PHOTO 7 Note For complete brake system removal instructions and precau – tions refer to the appropriate service manual for your year and model motorcycle

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Yamaha Forward Control Kit INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 17-01-2012

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After you have assembled the shift control onto your motorcycle you must align the footpeg. The folding footpeg assembly uses a blind stud to attach the footpeg to the footpeg pivot. Shim washers (3/8″ x .015″) are used on the stud between the footpeg and the pivot, see Photo 4, so that the top surface of the footpeg is correctly aligned for your foot when it is tightened down on the pivot. This is done by setting a couple of shim washers on the footpeg mounting stud “A” and then screwing the footpeg onto the mounting stud, if the footpeg is rotated to far forward then add another shim washer, if not far enough then remove a shim washer. After you have the selected the correct number of shims for your footpeg, disassemble the footpeg and put a drop of Loctite #271 (red) on both ends of the stud and reassemble the footpeg. This will also need to be done on the brake control footpeg. Setting Up the Master Cylinder The master cylinder pushrod return spring and pushrod boot must be installed on the master cylinder before it is assembled onto the forward control mount. The parts are shown in Photo 5: pushrod boot (A), pushrod return spring (B), spring seat washer (C), and master cylinder (D). Place the return spring seat washer into bore of master cylinder so that is sits on top of the piston retaining snap ring. Next set the pushrod return spring on the seat washer and slide the pushrod boot over the return spring now slip the big end of the boot over the flange on the master cylinder so that the ridge on the inside of the boot fits into groove “A” that is machined into the end of the master cylinder flange, see Photo 6. Installing The Brake Control Unplug stock brake light switch at master cylinder. Remove brake line from rear caliper. Remove the existing brake controls from your motorcycle down to the control mounting lug that is welded on to the frame’s right side, see Photo 8. Save Metric hardware for later use

Street Fork Spring Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 13-02-2011

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1. Remove fork springs according to instructions contained in your shop manual. For maximum performance we highly recommend that the forks be thoroughly cleaned, inspected and new fork oil installed. Note: If your motorcycle comes equipped with two fork springs in each leg (long & short), remove and discard both springs and the flat washer between the springs. If a stock spacer exits, remove it. If there is a short spring on the damper rod, do not remove it! 2. Use the recommended fork oil viscosity as noted in your owners manual with the following exceptions: GL1100 20 weight, GL1200/1500 15 weight required. See fine tuning for more in- formation. Fork oil level/volume should be checked according to the steps outlined in your authorized shop manual. Measurement of your fork oil by level is the preferred method. However, some manuals only specify a volume measurement. Due to the design of a progressive wound fork spring it will displace more oil thus requiring a maximum oil level of 5.5″ (140mm). Caution: This is not a recommendation, it is only a precautionary statement. If your manual specifies an oil level higher than 5.5″ (140mm) set the oil level at 5.5″ (140mm). (Oil level is the distance from the top of the fork tube to the top of the oil with the fork completely collapsed and the fork spring removed see figure 1.) This measurement can be made by using either one of the Progressive Suspension Fork Oil Level Adjusters (FOL-1 or FOL-2). 3. Install your new fork springs into the forks. Mechanically, it makes no difference which way the springs are installed. Some manuals will state; install the spring with the close wound end towards the bottom. This is done because sometimes there will be less spring noise. The springs will perform exactly the same regardless of which direction they are placed. Check the spacer length requirement for your motorcycle in the enclosed supplement. If not listed, you must calculate the pre-load. What is pre-load? Pre-load is the distance the spring compresses when the fork cap is installed. You may or may not utilize a spacer to achieve proper pre-load. The spacer in itself is not “pre-load”. It just helps to achieve it. Why is pre-load important? It determines the proper ride height which in turn affects how the bike handles.

FC Shock Spring Installation Guide

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 14-12-2010

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Installation: 1. Remove the fork springs according to the OEM Owner’s Manual. 2. Check/adjust fork oil level and weight according to OEM Specifications. Caution: Most inverted forks will not require the use of any shim washers or spacers. In cases where use is necessary with the twin chamber style fork, the shims must be placed at the bottom of the spring. Most conventional forks (non-inverted) will use shim washers or spacers at the top of the fork spring. 3. Install Factory Connection fork springs and refer to OEM Owner’s Manual for proper assembly procedures. 4. Be sure to double check all fasteners. Note: Most modern day forks require special tools for disassembly and assembly of the components. Examples : Showa 47/49mm Twin Chamber, KYB 48mm Twin Chamber, WP 07 SX Models/SXS Components. Installing fork springs is an intricate process that should be performed with extreme care by a qualified suspension technician. Failure to install the springs correctly could cause damage to one or more components of the fork. This damage, although not readily apparent, could lead to unexpected failure or rider injury. Factory Connection manufactures models specific fork springs. Installation of a Factory Connection spring not designed for your motorcycle may result in unexpected failure and rider injury. Please consult your Factory Connection spring dealer or call Factory Connection directly if you are unsure about a spring/or springs. 1. Factory Connection’s Limited Lifetime Warranty Factory Connection warrants, to the original retail purchaser (“consumer”) who retains ownership of the vehicle on which the suspension spring(s) (“products(s)”) was originally installed, all suspension springs for life against factory defects in material and workmanship (other than defects in finish) when used under normal use and operating conditions. 2. Your Remedy Upon verification of warranty coverage, Factory Connection at its option will replace defective or prematurely worn-out product (s), without charge, or refund the purchase price of the products(s). This is the Consumer’s sole and exclusive remedy for any loss or damage, however arising, due to a nonconformity or defect in the product(s). 3. Warranty Claim Procedure To make claim under this warranty, the consumer should contact the Factory Connection dealer or Factory Connection where the product(s) was purchased. Factory Connection reserves the right to test the returned product(s) to evaluate the nonconformity or possible defect. The Consumer is responsible for all costs of returning the defective or prematurely worn-out product(s) to the Factory Connection dealer as well as all costs for removing the product(s) from and installing the products(s) on the vehicle.

Harley Davidson 39 mm Front Spring Lowering Kit INSTALLATION PROCEDURE

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 07-04-2012

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1. Support the motorcycle so the front wheel is off the ground. Next remove the front wheel and fender. Remove the fork cap nuts and loosen the lower triple clamp pinch bolts. Remove the front brake caliper. Some models have a tapered end to the fork tube. Extra effort will be required to remove the tube from the crown. Loosen the top fork cap 1 to 2 revolutions. Use a soft wood block or similar tool (that will not mark fork cap finish) and tap down with mallet to loosen fork tube from its tapered fit in top steering crown. Make sure fork pinch bolts are loose. To completely remove fork of this style, unscrew the fork cap entirely. 2. Slide both fork assemblies out of the triple clamps. Unscrew the top fork tube plugs. Remove the plugs and fork springs. CAUTION: Fork caps are under spring pressure and could cause serious injury. Drain the fork oil by turning the fork assemblys upside-down. 3. Next, bottom the fork tube into the fork leg. DO NOT extend the tube while you remove the allen bolt on the bottom of the fork leg. Turn the assembly upside-down and shake the damper rod and rebound spring out of the fork assembly. Again, DO NOT extend the tube during this. Extending the tube could dislodge the internal bottoming cone, which fits on the end of the damping rod, making it very difficult to reinstall the damper rod without complete fork disassembly. 4. FOR 1″ REDUCTION IN FORK LENGTH: You must first measure the length of the O.E.M. rebound spring. Depending on the model of the motorcycle, the length will either be 1″ or 2″ long. A. If you currently have a 1″ rebound spring, you need to replace it with the 2″ long LA Choppers rebound spring (included in the kit), then reinstall the damper rod in the fork tube. B. If you currently have a 2″ rebound spring, you will need to add the 1″ long spacer, then reinstall the damper rod in the fork tube.

Aluminum Body One-Way Adaptive Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 21-11-2010

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Place the motorcycle on the centerstandor block the motorcycle securely so the rear wheel is slightly off the ground. 2. Remove the old shocks and note location of mount- inghardware. If additional accessories are installed on your motorcycle, please refer to their mounting instructions for removal to gain access to the shocks. Note: Steps (3-5) are only necessary if aftermarket fender, tire or any other accessories have been installed. If none of these applies, 18 Series proceed to step 5,418 Series proceed to step 6. Caution: Make sure that the proper bushings/sleeves are installed in the shocks. Improper bushings/sleeves can cause unsatisfactory or unsafe operation. Bushings: A universal hardware kit is included. Determine the proper sleeves and washers for mounting stud/bolt for your particular application. Not all parts will be used. 3. Install one shock (without spring) and check clearance (#Ain Fig. 1). Raise wheel into fender well until shock bottoms. There should bea minimumof1″of clearance between the tire and fender. 4. If clearance (#A) is sufficient, remove the shock and install the springs onto the shock (See Step 5). Caution: This step requires a spring compression tool from Progressive Suspension, (Part#32-5503). If a spring compression tool is not available, refer the work to your local dealer or repair shop. Attempting to compress the springs without the proper tool may result in serious injury or damage to the shock! 5. Spring Installation: A. Install tab cover and cam adjuster to the minimum setting (lowest point on preloadramps). See A figure 2. B. Install plastic body protector insuring that the protrusion seats into the cam adjuster. See Bfigure2. C. Install the spring. D. Install retaining ring above the spring. Make sure the circlipbevelis facing upward. Place the wirecirclip over the top eye sliding it close to the retaining ring. See Cfigure 2. E. Using a spring compressor tool, compress the spring enough to install wire circlipinthe groove. Slide the wire circlipdowninto the groove. Release the spring slowly, making sure the spring retainer ring seats fully on the wirecirclip. See Dfigure 2.

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