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SUSPENSION SERVICE TOOLS/ FORK DAMPER ROD BLEED TOOL

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 30-11-2010

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33 SHOP EQUIPMENT & TOOLS SUSPENSION SERVICE TOOLS K&L FORK TUBE U-BLOCKS Precision machined from billet aluminum, these quality three piece sets are a handy, accurate and safe way to straighten and check fork tubes. 35-9411 36mm (for 33 thru 36mm tubes) 35-9412 40mm (for 37 thru 40mm tubes) 35-9413 43mm (for 41 thru 43mm tubes) 35-9414 46mm (for 44 thru 46mm tubes) 35-1964 35-8579 35-7995 DAMPER ROD HOLDERS Holds damper rod when disassembling forks. 35-8578 Yamaha front forks, 43mm Kayaba YZ125/250 (1988) YZ490 (88-90) 35-8579 Yamaha YZ125/250 with UD(upside down) forks FORK DAMPER ROD TOOLS Sold each. 35-7995 Combination Fork Damper Tool Designed to hold the damper rod during assembly & disassembly of Honda XR400′s or Suzuki DR-Z400S. One end features spanner type prongs for the XR400 and the other a 27mm hex for Suzuki. 35-1964 Combination Damper Rod Fork Tool Designed for assembly and disassembly of most inverted Kayaba and Showa 41mm, 43mm, 46, and 47mm forks. Use one end for Kayaba forks and the other for Showa forks. (not required for 91-92 Honda CR models) ROD HOLDER Double sided damper rod holder. Works on Kayaba U.D (upside down) 41mm forks. 35-8580 Yamaha YZ125/250Amodels (89-90) FRONT FORK CAP SOCKET Designed to remove and install Yamaha front fork caps with female hex head. Sold each. 35-8571 14mm female socket 35-8573 19mm female socket FORK DAMPER ROD HOLDERS Holds damper rod when disassembling and assembling front forks. 35-8576 Use for Yamaha 43mm Kayaba forks, 30mm hex YZ125 (84-87), YZ250 (81-87) IT250 (1983) YZ490 (82-87) 35-8577 Use for Yamaha 38mm Kayaba forks, 24mm hex YZ125 (81-83), IT175 (82-83), IT250 (81-82) YZ250 (77-80), YZ400 (77-79), IT465 (81-82) FORK CAP WRENCH Designed to remove the front fork caps on late model Honda CR’s and Suzuki RM’s. Can also be used for adjusting compression. One end of wrench is 49mm, the other is 50mm. Sold each. 35-7803 Fork Cap Wrench 35-8576 35-8577 35-8571 35-8573 6 Point Hex 35-8578

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DUCATI TITANIUM EXHAUST SYSTEM INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Ducati) by admin on 26-10-2010

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BILLET BRAKE RADIAL MOUNTS Moto Corse brake radial mounts are crafted by precision machine tools as shown, the caliper mount is “box” type precision tooled from single ERGAL 7075 solid piece. The result: performance, reduced weight, quality and beauty unmatched by none used extensively in moto gp as standard technology Moto Corse delivers moto gp technology for the ultimate performance. The kit is available for caliper with bolt distance 108mm or 100mm and includes all the parts to assemble it on the bike. 102143002 102143003 102143005 102143006 102143008 102143009 102143011 raDial MOunt Kit FOr OHlins rOaD &tracK Ø 43 FrOnt FOrKs FOr breMbO racing calipers screW Distance 108MM raDial MOunt Kit FOr OHlins rOaD &tracK Ø 43 FrOnt FOrKs FOr breMbO racing calipers screW Distance 108MM raDial MOunt Kit FOr OHlins rOaD &tracK Ø 43 FrOnt FOrKs FOr breMbO street calipers screW Distance 100MM raDial MOunt Kit FOr OHlins rOaD &tracK Ø 43 FrOnt FOrKs FOr breMbO street calipers screW Distance 100MM raDial MOunt Kit FOr sHOWa Ø 43 FrOnt FOrKs FOr breMbO street calipers screW Distance 100MM raDial MOunt Kit FOr sHOWa Ø 43 FrOnt FOrKs FOr breMbO street calipers screW Distance 100MM raDial MOunt Kit FOr sHOWa Ø 43 FrOnt FOrKs FOr breMbO street calipers screW Distance 100MM Ducati 999s/999r/749r Ducati 748r/996sps/996r/998r/998 eF Ducati 748r/996sps/996r/998r/998 eF Ducati 999s/999r/749/r Ducati 749/749s/999 748/998 – MOnster 1000/s4/s2r Ducati MultistraDa 1000D

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Ducati Front Suspension and Wheel Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Ducati) by admin on 26-10-2010

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It is important to follow the proper installation sequence for installing the front suspension components. With out doing so it is possible to incorrectly align the front axle in the forks or misalign the forks themselves. Be careful to tighten the pinch bolts for the forks and the axle to the correct torque as many of the large diameter axles are thin-walled and can become permanently distorted if over- torqued. It is also possible to distort the fork stanchions or overstress the triple clamp with excessive torque. The forks derive a significant portion of there rigidity from a strong junction with the axle and triple clamp. Always sequentially cross tighten the pinch bolts to allow an even compression. Cogent Dynamics recommends measuring your fork position (height of the “legs”) using the bottom surface of the lower triple clamp as the datum point as shown in the Ducati service manual. Once the height is correctly set, clamp the lower pinch bolts to hold the forks in this position. The top clamp should have all three pinch bolts loose at this point (this includes the steering stem pinch bolt). Also the steering stem top bolt should be loosened. Clean and grease the axle before inserting it into the wheel. Avoid damaging the thin-walled axle, during installation. Once the axle is inserted through the fork lowers and the, line up the holes in the axle with the holes in the axle clamps so that the through-holes allow screwdriver access to the compression valve adjusters (for forks with the bottom compression adjusters.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON CHROME FORK SLIDERS REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 10-02-2011

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REMOVAL 1. Support the motorcycle so the front end is off the floor and the forks are fully extended. 2. Remove the front fender, front brake caliper(s) and front wheel according to instructions found in the Chassis section of the appropriate service manual. NOTE On some models other parts will also need to be removed to access the front forks. See the service manual. 3. For All Models EXCEPT Touring: Drain and remove the front forks. See the service manual. 4. For Touring models equipped with air-adjustable suspension: Bleed the air-adjustable suspension according to the instructions in the appropriate service manual. Wear safety glasses or goggles when servicing fork assembly. Do not remove slider tube caps without relieving spring preload or caps and springs can fly out, which could result in death or serious injury. (00297a) 5. For 2000 and Later Models EXCEPT Touring: See Figure 1. Using a piece of dental floss (or similar material) in a back and forth motion, loosen reflector from fork slider at both ends. Rotate reflector from side-to-side until it can be removed. Save reflector for future use. See Figure 2. Repeat procedure on the opposite side fork slider. Peel off any excess adhesive from both reflectors . Surface must be clean for installation. 6. Disassemble the front fork tubes according to instructions in the service manual. INSTALLATION NOTES The chrome fork sliders included in this kit install in the same manner as the original equipment parts. Refer to the service manual for proper installation procedures. Prior to installation of this kit, check the bores of the new chrome sliders to be certain they are free of dirt and debris or damage to the new sliders may occur. 1. Assemble the front fork tubes, replacing worn seals, bushings or other items as needed. NOTE Do not use an impact wrench to tighten the drain screws. Use of an impact wrench may damage the screws. 2. Tighten the drain screws: •Early Models with 39 mm forks (see Figure 2): Tighten to 13-17 in-lbs (1.5-1.9 Nm) •Early Models with 41 mm forks (see Figure 2): Tighten to 52-78 in-lbs (5.8-8.8 Nm) •Later Models (see Figure 3): Tighten to 52-78 in-lbs (5.8- 8.8 Nm) 3. Fill with TYPE E FORK OIL (99884-80) according to the instructions in the service manual. 4. Install the front fork and any parts that were removed to access the front forks. Install the front fender, wheel and caliper(s) according to instructions in the service manual. 5. For Touring models equipped with air-adjustable suspension: Refill the air-adjustable suspension system after assembly according to the service manual instruc- tions

HARLEY-DAVIDSON SPRINGER FORKS MOUNTING INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 06-04-2012

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1. The shock mounts with the body up —shaft pointing down. The nitrogen fill valve can be positioned toward the rear of the motorcycle. 2. Make sure that both halves of the upper and lower bushings are in place. NOTE: Do not try to install the shock with only half of the bushings, as this will lead to poor performance and premature seal leakage. The amount of “float” in the bushing set is necessary to ensure smooth operation of the damper assembly. 3. It is easiest to install the shock when the forks are fully extended, however the shock can be installed with the bike on the kick stand. 4. Insert the body eye into the mounting channel on the fork crown. Rotate the shock down into the lower channel. NOTE: A thread locking compound such as Red Loctite 262 or other similar product should be used on the shock fasteners. 5. Install the upper mounting stud and nuts, finger tight. 6. Push the shaft up far enough to insert the lower mounting stud and nuts. This will take a little effort because of the gas pressure in the shock. 7. Torque the upper and lower shock mount nuts to 22 ft. lb.

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AJS DISMANTLING AND REBUILDING FULL- WIDTH REAR WHEEL HUBS

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Filed Under (AJS) by admin on 31-10-2010

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The numbers shown thus: (2), refer to the num­ bered parts in the illustration. (a) Disconnect the speedometer driving cable. (b) Remove the lock-nut (16) which secures the speedometer-drive gearbox in position. (c) Remove the wheel from the frame. (d) Grasp the speedometer-drive gearbox with the fingers and firmly pull it away from the hub. (e) Slacken the circlip lock-nut (13). (f) Unscrew and remove the adjusting sleeve (14). With it will come: the sleeve (2) upon which the speedometer-drive No. 504 gearbox is mounted; the lock-nut (13) and the hub cover disc. (g) From the brake side of the wheel remove the spindle nut (19) and washer (18), the spacer for the fork end (17), and the outer spacer (20) (h) Withdraw the brake cover plate com­ plete with the brake shoes from the brake drum. (i) Remove the inner spacer (12). (j) If it is desired to remove the brake drum, take off the nuts (23) and washers (24). and pull the drum away from the hub. It is located on a spigot in the hub. The bolts (25) will remain in the hub and can be pushed out. (k) Press out the spindle (1). It can be withdrawn from either side and pushed out with a press and a suitable brass or copper rod of slightly less diameter than the spindle, or driven out with a ham­ mer and a copper or brass drift. (1) Remove the oil-seal retaining washer (3). the oil seal (4), the oil-seal cup (5), and oil-seal distance piece (6). These can be hooked out with the shank of a small and narrow screw-driver

AJS DISMANTLING AND REBUILDING FULL-WIDTH FRONT WHEEL HUBS INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (AJS) by admin on 31-10-2010

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Removal of the Brake-side Bearing Cup The bearing cup (5) is located endwise by a circlip (1), and between the cup and circlip arc an oil-seal retaining washer (4), oil seal (3), and oil-seal cup washer (2) Before these parts can be removed from the hub the bearing cup must be moved inwards for a very short distance (3/16-inch) so that the circlip can be withdrawn. (n) Gently heat the hub shell. (i) Place a soft metal rod (e.g. brass) against the oil-seal cup washer (2) and apply pressure with a hand press or hammer blows. It is only necessary to move the bearing cup (5) inwards about 1/16-inch. (j) Extract the circlip by inserting a narrow pen-knife blade under one end of the circlip; lift it upwards and outwards and prise the clip out of its groove. (k) Remove the oil-seal cup washer (2), oil seal (3) and oil-seal retaining washer (4). They can be hooked out with the shank of a small and narrow screw­ driver, (l) The bearing cup can now be ejected by placing a suitable rod of soft metal (e.g. brass) in the hub tunnel from the right-hand side and pressing it — with a press or hammer blows — against the bearing cup until the cup is forced out of the bearing. This must be done with care so that the cup remains square with the housing. Reassembly To facilitate replacement of the bearing cups gently heat the hub shell. Just too hot to hold is about the right temperature. (a) Place the brake-side bearing cup squarely in the hub shell — the open end faces inwards — and press it into the hub tunnel A short length of brass rod, slightly less than the outside dia­ meter of the cup, should be interposed between the cup and ram of the press, or hammer head. Press the cup in until the outer face is approximately half-an-inch below the mouth of the hub tunnel. This will allow sufficient room to allow [he circlip to be inserted into its groove. (b) Refit in the following order: oil-seal retaining washer (4), oil seal (3), oil-seal cup washer (2). (c) The circlip can now be replaced. In the interest of reliability use a new circlip, for it is possible that the existing circlip was strained when it was re­ moved. (d) Insert into the hub tunnel from the right-hand side a brass rod of suitable length, and press the bearing cup firmly against the circlip. (e) Before inserting the spindle complete with the roller races, pack them with clean and fresh grease of a suitable grade (Mobilgrease No. 4. Castrolease heavy, Energrease C3, Esso Pressure Gun Grease. Shelf Retinax Grease CD or A). (0 Insert the spindle into the hub. (g) Place the right-hand side bearing cup in the hub tunnel; the open end faces inwards, It may be necessary to re-heat the hub to allow the cup to go into position without difficulty. (h) Press the cup into position, but do not force it fully home, leave some end play on the spindle. (i) Refit in the following order: oil-seal retaining washer (6), oil-seal (7) and oil-seal cup washer (8). (j) Screw into the hub the adjusting sleeve (9) until it comes into contact with the bearing cup (5)

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1998 YAMAHA YZF-R6 SERVICE MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 25-11-2010

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Camshafts Drive system Camshaft cap inside diameter Camshaft journal diameter Camshaft-journal-to-camshaftcap clearance Intake camshaft lobe dimensions Measurement A Measurement B Measurement C Exhaust camshaft lobe dimensions Measurement A Measurement B Measurement C Max. camshaft runout Chain drive (right) 23.000 23.021 mm 22.967 22.980 mm 0.020 0.054 mm 33.05 33.15 mm 25.14 25.24 mm 7.81 8.01 mm 32.55 32.65 mm 25.07 25.17 mm 7.38 7.58 mm 0.08 mm 33.0 mm 25.09 mm 32.50 mm 25.02 mm 0.06 mm
2-5 ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS SPEC Head Diameter Face Width Seat Width Margin Thickness Item Standard Limit Timing chain Model/number of links Tensioning system RH2015/120 Automatic Valves, valve seats, valve guides Valve clearance (cold) Intake Exhaust Valve dimensions 0.11 0.20 mm 0.21 0.30 mm Valve head diameter A Intake Exhaust Valve face width B Intake Exhaust Valve seat width C Intake Exhaust Valve margin thickness D Intake Exhaust Valve stem diameter Intake Exhaust Valve guide inside diameter Intake Exhaust Valve-stem-to-valve-guide clearance Intake Exhaust Valve stem runout Valve seat width Intake Exhaust 24.9 25.1 mm 21.9 22.1 mm 1.14 1.98 mm 1.14 1.98 mm 0.9 1.1 mm 0.9 1.1 mm 0.6 0.8 mm 0.6 0.8 mm 3.975 3.990 mm 3.960 3.975 mm 4.000 4.012 mm 4.000 4.012 mm 0.010 0.037 mm 0.025 0.052 mm 0.9 1.1 mm 0.9 1.1 mm 1.6 mm 1.6 mm 0.5 mm 0.5 mm 3.950 mm 3.935 mm 4.042 mm 4.042 mm 0.08 mm 0.1 mm 0.04 mm 1.6 mm 1.6 mm
2-6 ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS SPEC Item Standard Limit Valve springs Free length Intake (inner) (outer) Exhaust Installed length (valve closed) Intake (inner) (outer) Exhaust Compressed spring force (installed) Intake (inner) (outer) Exhaust Spring tilt Intake (inner) (outer) Exhaust Winding direction (top view) Intake Exhaust 37.0 mm 38.4 mm 41.7 mm 30.0 mm 32.5 mm 36.1 mm 69 79 N (7.0 8.0 kgf) 114 132 N (11.6 13.4 kgf) 160 184 N (16.3 18.7 kgf) Clockwise Clockwise 35 mm 36.5 mm 39.5 mm 2.5/1.6 mm 2.5/1.7 mm 2.5/1.8 mm Cylinders Cylinder arrangement Bore stroke Compression ratio Bore Max. taper Max. out-of-round Forward-inclined, parallel 4-cylinder 65.5 45.5 mm 12.4 : 1 65.50 65.51 mm 0.05 mm 0.05 mm

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Lilac LS-18 Motorcycle Maintenance Standards

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Filed Under (Lilac) by admin on 25-11-2010

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CYLINDER AND CYLINDER HEAD MAINTENANCE ITEM STANDARD REPAIR LIMIT METHOD REMARKS Cylinder Bore 54 -0.01 54.1 Boring After boring honing should be performed Ovality 0.01 0.05 Boring After boring honing should be performed Taper 0.01 0.05 Boring After boring honing should be performed Oversize 0.25 steps 55 max. Do R and L cylinders at same time / 4 steps Valve Seat Width 0.8 – 1.0 1.3 Adjust Use a cutter Angle 45∞ Combustion Chamber Volume 18.2cc -0.5cc Remove carbon if heavy accumulation Compression Ratio 7.8:1 Head Gasket Thickness 1.0 Cylinder Head Nut Torque 3.0 kg/m (22 ft.-lb.) Out standard Adjust 8mm nut Intake and Exhaust Ports Port Wall SurfaceMust be smooth Remove carbon Intake and Exh. Valve GuidesOD 12 +0.09 +0.1 ID 7 +0.01 -0.0 7.06 Exchange Intake Valve Stem Diameter 7 -0.02 -0.03 6.9 Exchange Head Thickness 1 0.7 Exchange Exhaust Valve Stem Diameter 7 -0.02 -0.03 6.9 Exchange Head Thickness 1 0.7 Exchange Intake and Exhaust Valve Seat Face Width Range 0.8~1.0 1.3 Use valve seat cutter Intake Valve Guide Clearance 0.02~0.04 0.08 Replace valve or guide Exhaust Valve Guide Clearance 0.06~0.08 0.12 Replace valve or guide Valve Spring (Large) Installed Load 10.2 kg 8.7 kg Replace Fitted length 31.5 Free Length 36.5 34.7 Replace Tilt 1.5/100 3/100 Replace Valve Spring (Small) Installed Load 5.48 kg 4.65 kg Replace Fitted length 29.5 Page 4 of 10 Free Length 33.5 31.8 Replace Tilt 1.5/100 3/100 Replace Rocker Arm ID 12 +0.00 +0.02112.07 Replace Rocker Shaft OD 12 -0.06 -0.024 11.92 Replace Arm and Shaft Clearance 0.045~0.006 0.10 Replace arm or shaft Tappet Clearance 0.05 Out standard Adjust Measure cold at TDC Rocker Arm Ball Surface 1.8îR -0.006 -0.024 Replace if severe wear Pushrod Bend 0.1 0.5 Straighten Over 100mm (2) CRANKSHAFT, PISTON AND CONROD MAINTENANCE ITEM STANDARD REPAIR LIMIT METHOD REMARKS Piston OD @ Top 53.65 -0.02 Max Diameter 53.95 -0.015 53.85 Replace Ovality 0.1 Piston and Cylinder Clearance 0.04~0.05 0.15 Replace Piston Ring Groove Clearance 0.03~0.07 0.10 Replace Piston Oversize Step 0.25 4 steps Top Ring and 2nd Ring Thickness 2 -0.01 -0.03 1.92 Replace Width 2.5 -0.01 0.55kg Tension 0.85 – 1.15kg 1 Replace End Gap 0.15 – 0.35 Replace Oil Ring Thickness 3.2 -0.01 -0.03 3.12 Replace Width 2.5 -0.1 Tension 1.0~1.3kg 0.65kg Replace End Gap 0.15~0.35 1 Replace Ring Gap Position 120∞ 3 equal spacesOut standard Adjust Avoid Piston Pin Axis Ring Oversizes 0.25 steps 4 steps Piston Pin OD 15 -0.0 +0.006 14.95 Replace Pin Hole in Piston ID 15 +0.012 -0.015.05 Replace Pin and Piston Clearance -0.006 ~ +0.012 0.06 Replace Hand push fit piston at 100∞C Conrod Small End Bush ID 15+0.027+0.016 15.07 Replace bush Conrod and Piston Pin Clearance 0.01~0.027 0.07 Replace Crankpin OD 24.94 +0.0+0.0124.90 Replace Crankpin Roller OD 5 (+0.001+0.003) Refer to conrod ID Replace 3Sizes; 52 per assembly for selective fit 5 (+0.0 -0.002) 5 (-0.003 -0.005) Conrod ID 34.95+0.03+0.02435.02 Axial Play 0.2~0.4 0.5 Adjust Radial Play 0.026~0.036 0.06 Replace

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Honda GL1800 EZ-Steer Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 16-02-2011

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1. Use the Parts Checklist included with your hardware to verify the contents of the box. 2. Remove the front wheel, forks and triple clamps as shown in the Honda Shop Manual. 3. Remove the fork tube caps and install the new 1-inch extensions using the new “O” rings provided in your kit. 4. Install the new Triple Clamps. Remember to grease the new upper and lower steering bearings. The signal-cancel device under the lower triple clamp does not require special re-mounting hardware. 5. Install the forks into the new Triple Clamps. Check the steering lock action by turning the forks fully in both directions. 6. Reinstall the fender and wheel assembly. Be sure the brake hoses are routed to allow full travel of the forks.

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