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MOTORCYCLE ROLLER CHAIN Maintenance and Lubrication

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 27-11-2010

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Cleaning and Relubrication Perhaps the largest contributor to shortened chain life is inadequate lubrica- tion. All working parts of a chain should be lubricated uniformly. The use of the highest viscosity oil that allows for flow between the link plates and coats pin-bushing areas will normally provide the greatest wear resistance. Apply oil to the upper edges of link plates. This allows for the greatest access of oil to pin-bushing joints. For open drives, excess lubrication on outer chain surfaces should be removed, since it will either be thrown off during operation or serve to collect foreign materials. If foreign objects or surplus lubrication accumulates on chain surfaces to the extent of making re-lubrication of the joints impossible, the chain must be cleaned. Standard roller chains may be cleaned by washing in kerosene or any other good petroleum-based solvent. WARNING: These solvents are flammable. Agitate the chain to assure penetration of the solvent and a thorough flushing of the pin-bushing areas. Drain off excess solvent and inspect bushings and pins for wear. Replace the chain if wear is excessive or parts are fractured or missing. O-ring chains may be cleaned externallyby washing in kerosene. Do not use any other cleaning agent or the O-rings may be damaged. When cleaning O- ring chain, clean only the external areas of the chain. Do not attempt to force kerosene into the pin-bush cavity. Do not try to repair a worn-out chain by replacing individual links. The pitch of the new links will be shorter and will most likely result in chain fatigue failure and/or severe sprocket damage. For chains which are still usable, soak them in SAE 40 or 50 automotive engine oil (without additives). Flexing the chain in oil will assure greater penetration of lubricant. Inspect and clean sprockets. If sprockets are worn or damaged, they should be replaced.Installing new chain on worn out sprockets will significantly shorten the chain’s service life. WARNING: always wear eye protection when assembling or disassembling chain

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2001 YAMAHA TDM900 SERVICE MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 20-11-2010

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CHECKING THE SWITCHES ELEC EAS00731 ELECTRICAL CHECKING THE SWITCHES Check each switch for damage or wear, proper connections, and also for continuity between the terminals. Refer to “CHECKING SWITCH CONTINUITY”. Damage/wear Repair or replace. Improperly connected Properly connect. Incorrect continuity reading Replace the switch. -3- ELECTRIC STARTING SYSTEM ELEC EAS00755 ELECTRIC STARTING SYSTEM CIRCUIT DIAGRAM -4- ELECTRIC STARTING SYSTEM ELEC 4 Main fuse 5 Battery 7 Starter relay 8 Starter motor 9 Main switch 12 Starting circuit cut-off relay 13 Sidestand switch 14 Neutral switch 49 Clutch switch 59 Engine stop switch 60 Start switch 61 Ignition fuse -5- ELECTRIC STARTING SYSTEM ELEC EAS00756 STARTING CIRCUIT CUT-OFF SYSTEM OPERATION If the engine stop switch is set to “” and the main switch is set to “ON” (both switches are closed), the starter motor can only operate if at least one of the following conditions is met: The transmission is in neutral (the neutral switch is closed). The clutch lever is pulled to the handlebar (the clutch switch is closed) and the side- stand is up (the sidestand switch is closed). The starting circuit cut-off relay prevents the starter motor from operating when neither of these conditions has been met. In this instance, the starting circuit cut-off relay is open so current cannot reach the starter motor. When at least one of the above conditions has been met the starting circuit cut-off relay is closed and the engine can be started by pressing the starter switch. WHEN THE TRANSMISSION IS IN NEUTRAL WHEN THE SIDESTAND IS UP AND THE CLUTCH LEVER IS PULLED TO THE HANDLEBAR 4. Starting circuit cut-off relay Disconnect the starting circuit cut-off relay from the wire harness. Connect the pocket tester (Ω 1) and battery (12 V) to the starting circuit cut-off relay terminals as shown. YES NO Replace the starting circuit cut-off relay. Does the starting circuit cut-off relay have continuity between blue/white and black? EAS00759 Continuity Tester positive probe sky blue Tester negative probe blue/yellow No conti- nuity 1 2 1 3 Tester positive probe sky blue Tester negative probe black/yellow Battery positive terminal red/black Battery negative terminal black/yellow 1 2 Tester positive prove blue/white Tester negative prove black 3 4 5. Starting circuit cut-off relay (diode) Disconnect the starting circuit cut-off relay from the wire harness. Connect the pocket tester (Ω 1) to the starting circuit cut-off relay terminals as shown. Measure the starting circuit cut-off relay for continuity as follows. Tester positive probe blue/green Tester negative probe blue/yellow 4 3 Tester positive probe black/yellow Tester negative probe sky blue 2 1 Tester positive probe blue/yellow Tester negative probe sky blue 3 1 Tester positive probe blue/yellow Tester negative probe blue/green 3 4 When you switch the tester’s positive and negative probes, the readings in the above chart will be reversed. Are the testing readings correct? YES NO Replace the starting circuit cut-off relay. NOTE: EAS00760

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Harley-Davidson CHAIN DRIVE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 15-04-2012

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1) Assemble & install the chain tensioner assembly over the primary chain as shown in figure 1. 2) Install the compensator sprocket with extender & spacer (numbers 5, 6, & 7, FIG 2)(#7 is not included in this kit), primary chain, chain tensioner, and clutch basket simultaneously onto the motor drive shaft & transmission main shaft. Rotate the chain drive slightly as needed to allow the splines to line-up. 3) Install the chain tensioner nut loosely on the chain tensioner bolt. 4) Install the sliding cam onto the compensator sprocket, & slide the compensating sprocket cover-assembly (#3) over the cam. 5) Apply 2 drops of Rivera “Red” thread-lock on the threads of the motor drive shaft, & install the motor nut loosely with the fingers at this time. The hex spacer (#7) and spacer (#2) as seen in fig.2 are not provided in Rivera Engineering’s chain drive kit. These components are required with some applications, and can be purchased from your local Harley-Davidson dealer. FIG 2 6) Apply 2 drops of Rivera “red” thread-lock on the threads of the transmission main-shaft and loosely install the clutch hub nut (left hand threads). 7) Place the HD “Primary Drive Locking Tool” HD-41214 on the primary chain as shown in figure XXX and tighten the motor sprocket nut to 150-165 foot-pounds. 8)Turn the locking tool 180 degrees and move it to the clutch sprocket. Tighten the clutch hub nut to 70-80 foot pounds (left- hand thread). Adjust chain tension so that the top strand has 5/8″- to-7/8″ of up and down play (cold drive train). Tighten the center bolt nut to 21-29 foot pounds of torque.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON DETACHABLE TOUR-PAK LIGHT HARNESS KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 08-03-2011

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INSTALLATION Models with main FUSE: To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, remove main fuse before proceeding. (00251b) 1. Refer to the Service Manual and follow the instructions given to remove the main fuse. Models with main CIRCUIT BREAKER: To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect negative (-) battery cable before proceeding. (00048a) 1. Refer to the Service Manual and follow the instructions given to remove the seat and disconnect the negative (black) battery cable from the negative (-) battery terminal. Retain all seat mounting hardware. 2. ALL models: Install the Detachable Tour-Pak Rack Kit per the instructions in that kit, up to the point where the saddlebags are to be re-installed. NOTE Make note of the cable strap locations before releasing the harness from the upper frame tube. New straps will be fastened in the same location. 3. Cut the larger cable strap fastening Tour-Pak circuit [12] (see the Service Manual Wiring Diagram) of the vehicle main harness to the left-side upper frame tube, rearward of the shock absorber. Cut the small cable strap at the end of the circuit [12] conduit. 4. Slit the conduit open along its length to expose the final ten inches (0.25 M) of main harness circuit [12] wiring. Cut the three wires (Black, Blue, and Red with Yellow tracer) nine inches (0.23 M) from the three-way Multilock socket housing [12B]. The socket housing and cut wires can be discarded. 5. Obtain the socket housing, secondary lock (locking wedge), and three socket terminals from the kit. See the illustration at DEUTSCH ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS: REMOVING/INSTALLING SOCKETS in the Service Manual. Refer to CRIMPING INSTRUCTIONS in the Service Manual, and follow the instructions to install the terminals to the three wire leads of main harness circuit [12]. 6. Per the instructions under DEUTSCH ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS, insert the Blue lead and terminal into Cavity 1 of the new socket housing. Insert the Red/Yellow lead and terminal into Cavity 2. Insert the Black lead and terminal into Cavity 3. 7. Cut the excess conduit from main harness circuit [12]. 8. Obtain the two cable straps from the kit. As noted in Step 3, use one strap to bind the end of the main harness circuit [12] conduit. Use the second strap

Yamaha YZ 250F Camshafts REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 30-12-2011

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Remove the 4 bolts that hold the exhaust cam cap in place, lift the cam cap off. It may be necessary to pry very lightly on the cap to lift it off its dowel pins. Do not use the cam lobes as the pry point. Be careful not to drop the dowels and also be careful to not lose the half moon shaped retainer for the bearing under the cam cap. Remove the 6 bolts that hold the intake camshaft cap and lift the cam cap off the camshaft, again, be careful to not drop the retainer or dowels. Lift the intake camshaft out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting. Remove the cam chain from the sprocket, set the stock camshaft aside. Lift the exhaust cam out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting and remove the chain from the sprocket. Do not drop the cam chain, dangle it over the side of the engine while keeping slight upward pressure on the chain to maintain its position on the drive sprocket on the crankshaft. Fit the half moon shaped retainers in the grooves of the Hot Cams camshaft bearings to ensure good fit, set retainers aside for the time. Using assembly lube, lube the shim buckets, bearing surfaces for the camshafts in the cylinder head, and pack some in the camshaft bearings. Set the exhaust cam into the cylinder head casting while at the same time fitting the cam chain over the sprocket. Make sure that you keep all the cam chain slack to the back of the engine. The cam chain pulls the camshaft sprockets in a counter clockwise direction and the slack of the chain must be kept on the cam chain tensioner side of the engine. The exhaust cam has two timing marks on it. When correctly installed one mark will be at the 9 o’clock position and the other mark will be at the 12 o’clock position. When correctly timed the mark at 9 o’clock will be aligned with the valve cover gasket surface. Repeat the above process for the intake camshaft. Again, make sure you keep the chain slack to the cam chain tensioner side of the engine. Check to be sure the crankshaft is still at TDC. The intake cam has two timing marks also. One at 12 o’clock and the other at 3 o’clock. When both cams are installed correctly, the valve cover gasket surface will form a straight line through the exhaust timing mark at 9 o’clock and the intake timing mark at 3 o’clock

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Kawasaki KFX KLX 400 Camshafts Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Remove the plug bolt from the back of the cam chain tensioner assembly. It is under pressure from the spring. Remove the spring and pin. Remove the bolts and tensioner assembly from the cylinder. Release the lock on the tensioner assembly and push the tensioner rod into the assembly so that it is fully retracted. Remove the eight 5mm Allen headed bolts that hold the cam caps in place. Remove the cam caps; be aware of the locating dowels in the caps to keep them from falling into the engine. It may be necessary to pry very lightly on the caps to lift them off their dowel pins. Do not use the cam lobe as the pry point. Lift the intake camshaft out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting. Remove the cam chain from the sprocket, set the stock camshaft aside. Lift the exhaust cam out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting and remove the chain from the sprocket. Do not drop the cam chain; dangle it over the side of the engine while keeping slight upward pressure on the chain to maintain its position on the drive sprocket on the crankshaft. Using assembly lube, lube the shim buckets and bearing surfaces for the camshafts in the cylinder head. Set the exhaust camshaft into the cylinder head casting while at the same time fitting the cam chain over the sprocket. Make sure that you keep all the cam chain slack to the back of the engine. Repeat the above process for the intake camshaft. Again, make sure you keep the chain slack to the cam chain tensioner side of the engine. Check to be sure the crankshaft is still at TDC. Check the location of the cam lobes. The camshafts are marked, and preset to 108-degree centers. If the lobes are not where they should be, adjust the positioning of the camshaft by rotating the sprocket one tooth on the chain. Do this until it is in the correct position as before you removed the camshafts. Check the positioning of the crankshaft for the TDC mark

YAMAHA FZR 400 ELECTRICAL CIRCUIT DIAGRAM

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 29-11-2010

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CHECKING OF SWITCHES Check the switches for the continuity between the terminals to determine correct connection. Read the following for switch inspection. SWITCH CONNECTION AS SHOWN IN MANUAL The manual contains a connection chart as shown left showing the terminal connections of the switches (e.g., main switch, handlebar switch, brake switch, lighting switch, etc.) The extreme left column indicates the switch positions and the top line indicates the colors of leads connected with the terminals in the switch component. “C’&-0″ indicates the terminals between which there is a continuity of electricity; i.e., a cl.osed circuit at the respective switch positions. In this chart: “R and Br” and “L/W and L/R” are continuous with the “ON” switch position. “B and B/W” is continuous with the “OFF” switch position. “B and B/W” is continuous with the “LOCK” switch position. “B and B/W” and “R and L/R” are continuous with the “P” switch position. CHECKING SWITCH FOR TERMINAL CONNECTION Before checking the switch, refer to the connection chart as shown above and check for the correct terminal connection (closed circuit) by the color combination. To explain how to check the switch, the main switch is taken for example in the following

Harley-Davidson BAKER COMPENSATING SPROCKET INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 19-04-2012

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1) Remove the primary chain case cover. Refer to your Factory Service Manual for this procedure. 2) Remove the compensating sprocket nut with a 1-1/2″ socket. A ½” impact gun is best for this task. *) Remove the 1-3/16″ clutch nut. This is a left handed nut so loosen it by turning it in the clockwise direction (as viewed from the left side of the motorcycle). 4) With one hand on the compensating sprocket and one on the clutch assembly, remove the primary drive assembly (compensating sprocket, primary chain, tensioner assembly, and clutch as shown in figure a and set it on a clean surface. 5) Flip the adjuster shoe bracket on the chain tensioner assembly. figure b shows the stock orientation of the adjuster show and bracket. Figure C shows the adjuster show bracket flipped 180°. To flip the shoe bracket, remove the two ¼-28×2 bolts that hold the bracket assembly together. This will allow you to separate the chain tensioner assembly components from the primary chain. Flip the bracket around as shown in figure c . PAGE 4 Figure B Figure A BAKER COMPENSATING SPROCKET INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS 6) install the new compensating sprocket, chain, and clutch onto the motor sprocket shaft and the transmission input shaft. The flipped chain tensioner assembly (as shown in figure c ) is not ‘captured’ on the primary chain like the stock configuration. Loosely install the chain tensioner assembly onto the anchor plate bolt. Tighten the compensating sprocket nut to 157+ 7 ft-lbs and the clutch hub nut to 75+ 5 ft-lbs using red Loctite on the threads.

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CCS- 100 ELECTRONIC CRUISE CONTROL INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 10-11-2010

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UNDER HOOD INSTALLATION Connecting the Cruise Control Cable to the Throttle NOTE: Prior to attaching servo cable to throttle, locate an accessible area to mount the cruise control servo, but do not mount it. Leave the servo in this area (unmounted) and route cable to throttle attachment area. CAUTION: Attach the cruise control cable so that it parallels the existing throttle cable as nearly as possible. Choose a mounting method from the figures below: Attachment area for securing cable Bead Chain Coupling Sleeve (#23) Bead Chain Coupling (#24) 3 BEAD CONNECTOR FIG. 6 FIG. 7 FORD LINKAGE ADAPTOR Rubber Ring WIRE LOOP FOR PULLEY Carburetor Existing Snap-On Throttle Arm On Vehicle FIG. 2 SNAP-ON THROTTLE ARM MOUNT FIG. 3 CLAMP-ON THROTTLE ARM MOUNT Determine a suitable point on the throttle linkage to mount the cable connector. The mounting point chosen should have between 1-1/2″ to 2″ total linkage travel. It must operate smoothly by hand. There should be at least 5 beads between the throttle connector and servo cable end. The cable must pull in a straight line from throttle linkage. Some vehicles that do not have enough total linkage travel have to be connected at the accelerator pedal. The bead chain and servo cable end must be inserted into the bead chain connector. Then the bead chain coupling sleeve must slide over bead chain connector to insure that the end will not hang in the connector. FIG. 1 Cable Bead Chain Eyelet Connector (#25) Pull off Throttle Arm and Insert Bead Chain Connector between it and Carburetor Arm. Be sure additional thickness of adaptor does not bind linkage. 20° Bead Chain Eyelet Connector (#25) Cable Must Be within 20° of same angle as Throttle Rod Throttle Cable Throttle Wire Loop (#29) Barrel Wire Adaptor (#30) WIRE BARREL FOR PULLEY FIG. 5 FIG. 4

Yamaha YZ400/426F Camshafts REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 01-01-2012

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Cleanliness is always a good place to start. Make sure the motorcycle is cleaned thoroughly before you start. It would be advisable to use an engine degreaser on the frame and the engine. This will ensure a clean engine during the assembly process and less of a chance of thread damage and/or dirt contamination in the engine during reassembly. And as always, replace any fiber-based gasket that was moved in any way, i.e.: cam chain tensioner. You will need basic hand tools and a torque wrench, machine towels (rags), some cleaning solvent, and a cam chain tensioner gasket. And the Hot Cams’ Degree Wheel Kit if you so desire. We will start by removing the tank and seat, top engine mount, and the cam cover. Remove the crankshaft cap and timing hole cap on the left engine case cover. Remove the spark plug. Rotate the engine in a counter clockwise (CCW) direction. Position the engine on top dead center (TDC) using the mark on the flywheel or better yet a degree wheel using a positive stop. Be sure to notice that the intake valves were the last to move, this will ensure the engine of being on “true” TDC. True top dead center occurs when both the intake and exhaust valve are closed when the piston is at TDC. This is technically the end of the compression stroke and the Page 1
beginning of the power stroke. The “artificial” TDC is during the overlap when both the intake and exhaust valves would be open. Note the positioning of the cam lobes (their included angle will be close to 170 degrees), this will help during the installation of your new Hot Cams camshafts Remove the cap bolt on the end of the cam chain tensioner block, be aware of the copper washer. Release the spring tension on the cam chain tensioner by turning the flat blade screw slot inside the adjuster block in a clockwise (CW) direction; it will lock in the retracted position. Remove the two 8mm headed bolts that hold the cam chain tensioner to the cylinder block. Remove and discard the gasket. Remove the 4 bolts that hold the exhaust cam cap in place, lift the cam cap off. It may be necessary to pry very lightly on the cap to lift it off its dowel pins. Do not use the cam lobes as the pry point. Be careful not to drop the dowels and also be careful to not lose the half moon shaped retainer for the bearing under the cam cap. Remove the 6 bolts that secure the intake cam cap and lift the cam cap off the camshaft, again, be careful to not drop the retainer or dowels. Lift the intake camshaft out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting. Remove the cam chain from the sprocket, set the stock camshaft aside. Lift the exhaust camshaft out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting and remove the chain from the sprocket. Do not drop the cam chain, dangle it over the side of the engine while keeping slight upward pressure on the chain to maintain its position on the drive sprocket on the crankshaft

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