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Kawasaki Ninja 250 FAQ

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 15-11-2010

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Am I too small for this motorcycle? Duke – Sun May 14 17:38:31 2000 I’m only about 5’2″ and don’t have a problem, even though I can only touch the ground with the ends of my toes. Once you get a feel for the balance of the bike it’s not hard to keep everything upright. Only place I have trouble is pushing the bike backwards in a parking lot. Usually I just walk the bike (beside it) to where I can get on and get going. How does the EX500 compare to the EX250? Craig M. – Mon May 22 10:23:29 2000 I have both the EX250 and the EX500; both are Y2K models. The 250 is a screamer that performs well and can easily get me into trouble. My only complaints about the 250 are the excessive nose dive when getting on the front brake hard and the skittishness of the rear during high speed cornering. Both are easily corrected with suspension adjustments, I’ve just been too lazy to get the parts and do the work. A bit more wind protection would be great too. The 500 addresses these problems, the diving of the front end (to a degree); the rear’s skittishness and the wind protection. A plus for the 500 is the greater torque and power off the line; it pulls stronger (in my opinion) and will get you into illegal speed territory just a bit quicker than the 250. With greater weight, is has more stability in high speed and windy situations. Insurance is just about the same for both, with the 250 getting the nod for gas mileage. Service requirements are almost identical for both as well, being that they’re both parallel twins, the technology is the virtually the same. The downfalls of the 500: $2K more than the 250 (can do a lot to the 250 with that kind of money); buzzy mirrors, barely useful; heavier weight to have to push around the garage; lesser gas mileage (55-60 MPG; 250 pushes 70 MPG easily); engine is worse than a nervous dog shaking around at idle and at speed (here the 250 is far superior and much smoother). In my opinion, the 500 is a better suited for a larger rider, from a comfort standpoint. I feel I can stretch out a bit more on it than the 250 (I’m 5′ 9″, 160 lbs). The 250′s brakes are better tuned than the 500 and the shifter is much smoother. That may be due to the 3,500 mile difference between the two bikes. Bottom line, both bikes are great, the 250 is now my wife’s ride (mainly) and the 500′s mine (unless she steals the keys away). In time, I’ll make the adjustments to the 250; she doesn’t push it like I do.

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2008 KTM 250 SX-F 250 XC-F, XCF-W 250 EXC-F, EXC-F SIX DAYS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 22-10-2010

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Hand brake lever The hand brake lever [1] is mounted on the handlebars on the right and actuates the front wheel brake. The adjusting screw [A] can be used to change the basic position of the hand brake lever (see “Maintenance”). 1 A Short circuit button The short circuit button [2] turns off the engine. When pressing this button, the ignition circuit is short-circuited. 2 Headlamp switch (XCF-W) In this model the headlamp is switched on with the pull switch [5] . 5 Flasher switch The flasher switch is a separate unit and is mounted on the left portion of the handlebar. The wire harness is designed in a way that whenever you want to use your bike off-road, you can dismount the entire turn indicator system without affecting the function of the remaining electrical system. Flasher left Flasher right
OPERATION INSTRUMENTS » ENGLISH 7 1 2 3 4 5 Starter button Pushing the red starter button [1] will actuate the E-starter. Emergency OFF switch (EXC-F Australia) The red emergency-OFF switch [2] is arranged adjacent to the throttle grip. In this position, the E-starter is operational and the engine can be started. In this position, the E-starter and ignition circuits are interrupted.The E-starter cannot be actuated, and the engine will not start, not even if you attempt to start it with the kickstarter. Pushing the black starter button [3] will actuate the E-starter. Indicator lamps The green control lamp [4] flashes in the same rhythm as the flashing indicator when the indicator is working. The blue control lamp [5] lights up when the high beam is on. TEST All of the display segments briefly light up for the display function test. Electronic speedometer The display in the electronic speedometer is activated as soon as you press a button on the speedometer or an impulse is received from the wheel sensor. The display lights up when the engine is running. The display is cleared if no button is pressed for 1 minute or no impulse is received from the wheel sensor. The button is used to change between display modes. The + and – buttons are used to control various functions

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KYMCO MAXXER 300/ 250 MONGOOSE 300/ 250 SERVICE MANUAL

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Filed Under (Kymco) by admin on 26-10-2010

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apply or add designated greases and lubricants to the specified lubrication points. ÑAfter reassembly, check all parts for proper tightening and operation. ÑWhen two persons work together, pay attention to the mutual working safety. ÑDisconnect the battery negative (-) terminal before operation. ÑWhen using a spanner or other tools, make sure not to damage the motorcycle surface. ÑAfter operation, check all connecting points, fasteners, and lines for proper connection and installation. ÑWhen connecting the battery, the positive (+) terminal must be connected first. ÑAfter connection, apply grease to the battery terminals. ÑTerminal caps shall be installed securely. 1 . GENERAL INFORMATION 1-6 ATV 300/250 ÑIf the fuse is burned out, find the cause and repair it. Replace it with a new one according to the specified capacity. ÑAfter operation, terminal caps shall be installed securely. ÑWhen taking out the connector, the lock on the connector shall be released before operation. ÑHold the connector body when connecting or disconnecting it. ÑDo not pull the connector wire. ÑCheck if any connector terminal is bending, protruding or loose. Confirm Capacity 1 . GENERAL INFORMATION 1-7 ATV 300/250 ÑThe connector shall be inserted completely. ÑIf the double connector has a lock, lock it at the correct position. ÑCheck if there is any loose wire

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2006 KTM 250 SX-F 250 EXC RACING 400 EXC RACING 450 SX, XC, EXC RACING 525 SX, XC, EXC RACING, REPAIR MANUAL

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 05-05-2012

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Hot start lever (250 SX-F) If you pull the red hot start lever [1] during the starting procedure backward, a bore in the carburetor will be opened through which the engine may take in additional air. The result is a „lean” fuel-air mixture of the type needed for hot starts.
ENGLISH 7 OPERATION INSTRUMENTS » Headlamp switch (EXCUSA) In this model the headlamp is switched on with the pull switch [1] . Flasher switch The flasher switch is a separate unit and is mounted on the left portion of the handlebar. The wire harness is designed in a way that whenever you want to use your bike off-road, you can dismount the entire turn indicator system without affecting the function of the remaining electrical system. Flasher left Flasher right Starter button (EXC) Pushing the black starter button [2] will actuate the E-starter. Emergency OFF switch (EXC Australia) The red emergency-OFF switch [3] is arranged adjacent to the throttle grip. In this position, the E-starter is operational and the engine can be started. In this position, the E-starter and ignition circuits are interrupted.The E-starter cannot be actuated, and the engine will not start, not even if you attempt to start it with the kickstarter. Pushing the black starter button [4] will actuate the E-starter. 2 3 4 5 6 Indicator lamps The green control lamp [5] flashes in the same rhythm as the flashing indicator when the indicator is working. The blue control lamp [6] lights up when the high beam is on

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Honda CBR 400RR Service and Repair Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 16-12-2011

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Once you have found al1 the identification nurnbers, record thern for reference when nbuying parts. Since the rnanufacturers change specifications, parts and vendors (cornpanies that rnanufacture various cornponents on the
rnachine), providing the ID nurnbers is the only av to be reasonablv sure that vou are buvina Model, c ~ d e and
production year CBR400RR-J (1988) CBR400RR-K (1 989) CBR400RR-L (t990 and 91) CBR400RR-N (1992 and 93) CBR400RR-R (1 994-on) , the correct parts. Whenever possible, take the worn pari to the dealer so direct cornparison with the new cornponent can be rnade. Along the trail frorn the rnanufacturer to the parts shelf, there are nurnerous places that the part can end up with the wrong nurnber or be listed incorrectly. The two places to purchase new parts for
your rnotorcycle – the accessory shop and the rnotorcycle dealer – differ in the type of parts they carry. While dealers can obtain virtually every part for your rnotorcycle, the accessory shop is usually lirnited to norrnal high wear iterns such as shock absorbers, tune-up parts, various engine gaskets, cables, chains, brake parts, etc. Rarely will an accessory outlet have rnajor suspension cornponents, cylinders, transrnission gears, or cases. Used parts can be obtained for roughly half the price of new ones, but you can’t always be sure of what you’re getting. Once again, take your worn part to the breaker for direct cornparison. Whetherhu~ng new, used or rebuilt parts, the best course is to dea1 directly with sorneone who specialises in parts for your particular rnake. Frame nwnber NC23-1020001 t0 1036454 NC23 t090001 t0 10981 16 NC29-1000001 to 101 0598 NC29-1050001 on NC29-l t00001 on Unofficial (grey) imports
All CBR400RR rnodels in the LIK are unofficial (grey) irnports frorn Japan. The rnajority are second-hand rnachines and are allocated age-related licence plates for UK use (the licence plate letter reflects the production year in Japan), although new CBRs are allocated current year UK registration letter plates. Cornrnon changes rnade prior to sale in the UK are the disabling of the rev-lirniter device (or more correctly ‘speed-lirniter’ device), which is fitted to cornply with Japanese rnarket regulations. The device is located inthe speedorneter head and is linked to th

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APRILIA SPORTCITY 125-200 Technical specifications

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Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 07-11-2010

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The engine and transmission assembly also acts as swing arm. Suspension is provided by two rear shock absorbers. Spring preload is adjustable for maximum efficiency under all load and road conditions. Rear wheel travel is 80 mm , more than enough to smooth out even the roughest surfaces. The SPORTCITY 250 i.e. is equipped with 15 inch wheels and large, high profile tubeless tyres (120/70 at the front and 130/80 at the rear). Rolling diameter is therefore equivalent to that of a 16 inch tyre but the ability to absorb shocks from rough road surfaces is far better, ensuring a superbly smooth ride. In conjunction with the excellent frame, this intelligent choice of tyres gives the SPORTCITY 250 i.e. excellent stability and the sort of intuitive feel that makes it a piece of cake to ride even for novices . The brakes are another of the strong points of the SPORTCITY 250 i.e. . The new system features triple discs for far shorter stopping distances and far greater active safety. Even inexperienced riders will have no trouble in pulling up well ahead of trouble. At 90 km/h the SPORTCITY 250 i.e. takes just 2.7 seconds to come to a full stop . The front brakes feature two 260 mm discs and floating calipers with two parallel pistons . The rear disc is a 220 mm unit with single piston caliper. Engine technology is another major plus point for the SPORTCITY 250 i.e. Its new electronic fuel injected engine is state of the art on the scooter scene . Powerful, flexible, and extremely low on emissions and consumption, this 250 cc single cylinder unit is perfect for the job in hand. Developing 22.5 HP at 8,000 rpm with 21 Nm of torque at 6,250 rpm, the engine delivers standard-setting performance . It also enables the Sportcity to function as a fun to ride sports scooter not only in town centres but on fast urban ring roads too. And the SPORTCITY 250 i.e. respects the environment wherever it goes, being one of the few scooters to conform to Euro 3 emission control standards. Finally, miserly fuel consumption and a generous 9 litre tank give the SPORTCITY 250 i.e. great autonomy . Engine Horizontal, single cylinder, 4 stroke. Forced liquid cooling with centrifugal pump. 4 valve head with overhead camshaft Fuel Unleaded petrol Bore and stroke 72 x 60 mm Displacement 244,29 cc Compression ratio 11:1 Maximum power 16.5 HP (22.5 kW) at 8,000 rpm Maximum torque 21 Nm at 6,250 rpm Fuel system Electronic fuel injection Ignition Electronic inductive discharge ignition with variable advance Starting Electric Alternator 300 W Lubrication Wet sump. Forced circulation with mechanical pump Gearbox Automatic torque converter Clutch Automatic centrifugal dry clutch Primary drive V belt Final drive Gearbox Frame Open cradle in high tensile strength steel Front suspension Hydraulic telescopic fork with 35 mm stanchions. Wheel travel 100 mm Rear suspension Engine unit acting as swinging arm. Double hydraulic shock absorber with adjustable preload. Wheel travel 80 mm Brakes Front: Twin ∅ 260 mm stainless steel discs. Twin piston floating callipers Rear: ∅ 220 mm stainless steel disc Wheels Light alloy Front: 2.75 x 15″ Rear: 3.00 x 15″ Tyres Tubeless. Front: 120 / 70 x 15″ Rear: 130 / 80 x 15″ Dimensions Maximum length: 1,985 mm Maximum width: 880 mm (at mirrors) Wheelbase: 1,360 mm Seat height; 815 mm Dry weight 148 kg Tank capacity 9 litres (reserve 1.5 litres) Colours Excalibur Grey, Shot Grey, Couture Blue, Moka Black Accessories 28 litre top box, 32 litre top box, 35 litre top box, large windshield, sports windshield, leg cover

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YAMAHA XVS1100 (L) SERVICE MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 07-11-2010

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GENERAL INFORMATION MOTORCYCLE IDENTIFICATION EB100010 VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER The vehicle identification number 1 is stamped into the right side of the steering head. MODEL LABEL The model label 1 is affixed to the frame. This information will be needed to order spare parts. 1-2 IMPORTANT INFORMATION GEN INFO EB101000 IMPORTANT INFORMATION PREPARATION FOR REMOVAL PROCE- DURES 1. Remove all dirt, mud, dust and foreign material before removal and disassembly. 2. Use proper tools and cleaning equipment. Refer to the “SPECIAL TOOLS” section. 3. When disassembling the machine, always keep mated parts together. This includes gears, cylinders, pistons and other parts that have been “mated” through normal wear. Mated parts must always be reused or replaced as an assembly. 4. During machine disassembly, clean all parts and place them in trays in the order of disassembly. This will speed up assembly and allow for the correct installation of all parts. 5. Keep all parts away from any source of fire. EB101010 REPLACEMENT PARTS 1. Use only genuine Yamaha parts for all replacements. Use oil and grease recommended by Yamaha for all lubrication jobs. Other brands may be similar in function and appearance, but inferior in quality. EB101020 GASKETS, OIL SEALS AND O-RINGS 1. Replace all gaskets, seals and O-rings when overhauling the engine. All gasket surfaces, oil seal lips and O-rings must be cleaned. 2. Properly oil all mating parts and bearings during reassembly. Apply grease to the oil seal lips. 1-3 IMPORTANT INFORMATION GEN INFO CAUTION: EB101030 LOCK WASHERS/PLATES AND COTTER PINS 1. Replace all lock washers/plates 1 and cotter pins after removal. Bend lock tabs along the bolt or nut flats after the bolt or nut has been tightened to specification

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Triumph Bonneville America And Speedmaster The Freak Installation Instructions and Parts List

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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INSTALLATION In order to install The Freak, the factory air-box must be removed. Because of it’s design, the factory air-box is not an item that is easily removed. There are several parts that must be removed in order to get the air-box out of the bike in one piece. We recommend using the following method to remove your air box without having to cut it into smaller pieces in order to get it out of the frame. 1. PARTS REMOVAL In order to gain access to the air-box, it is necessary to remove certain parts of the motorcycle to gain access to the air-box area of the frame. Removing the following parts should be the first steps you take. A. Seats – Remove both seats starting with the passenger pillion, if applicable. B. Side cover and grommets – Remove the plastic side cover on the right side (throttle side) of your motorcycle. This is the faux oil-tank cover that has the name of your bike on it. Underneath the side cover there are three rubber grommets (1 on the frame tab, and two on the air-box) that support the side cover. Remove the two that are on the air-box and leave the one on the frame. You will attach the two that you removed to the right side bracket in Section 4C . C. Faux air filter covers – On the right side of the bike, remove the chrome faux air filter covers, by removing the one allen head screw that holds it onto the air-box. On the left hand side (clutch side) remove the faux air filter cover in the same manner, you removed the one on the right. D. Plastic shrouds – on the left side, remove the black plastic air-box shroud, by removing the two allen head screws holding it in place. Then remove the plastic shroud covering your fuse box (this is the piece that surrounds your ignition terminal next to the battery). E. Battery – Remove the battery by unscrewing the torx-head bolt that holds the chrome bracket in place. Remove the chrome bracket and the black plastic cap. Tilt the battery out of the box with the top towards you. Disconnect both battery terminal connectors, negative (-) terminal first. Remove the battery. F. Battery box – Remove the two bolts that hold the battery box to the frame. Pull the battery box out as far as you can, then remove the the ignition terminal from the battery box, by removing the two allen screws that hold it in place from the back. Next, remove the fuse box from the battery box, by pushing it out from the back. It is not necessary to disconnect any of the wiring going to the fuse box, or the ignition terminal. G. Rear fender – Remove the rear fender, by first disconnecting the taillight wires. Follow the wires from the tail light assembly on the inside of the rear fender (left side) towards the front of the bike until you come to the box connector. Disconnect the tail light wires at this connector, being careful not to break it. Once the wiring is disconnected, remove the 6 bolts that hold it to the struts. Have someone hold the fender for you while you are removing all of the bolts so that it does not drop once the bolts are removed. Slide the fender out the rear of the bike. 2. PREPARE THE MOTORCYCLE FOR AIR-BOX REMOVAL To remove the factory air-box without damaging it, it is necessary to lift the bike. We recommend the use of a multi-position ATV/motorcycle jack with a minimum lift height of 10″. A. Setting up the lift – Place the lift under your bike and secure your bike to the lift according to the lift manufacturer’s instructions. B. Raise slightly – Lift the motorcycle to the point where the rear springs are without tension, but NOT to where the rear tire is off the ground. C. Remove the rear springs – Take off each of the rear springs by removing the the two bolts on each spring. Once all the bolts are removed gently pull the springs out off of the studs. If they do not pull off easily, you can raise or lower the bike slightly with the lift to ease tension on the spring. Remember, you should not have the rear tire off the ground at this point. The bike should only be raised enough to relax the tension in the springs. D. Remove the mufflers – Remove the mufflers by loosening the clamp at the exhaust header, and by removing the rear foot peg hangers. If the mufflers are not removed, they can become damaged by the axles in Section 2H . E. Disconnect the carburetors – With a small flathead screwdriver, pull the retainer springs out of the channel of the carburetor intake tubes (the two large black tubes coming from the air box into the back of each carburetor), and simply push them towards the air box off of the carbs

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Harley Davidson Shift leverbracket INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 24-03-2012

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Installation of any parts should be performed by a qualified, trained mechanic. • All parts included in the Rocker Boards™Conversion Kit are intended to be used as sold. Modification of any part will void all warranties. • Installation should be performed on a motorcycle that is completely cool to avoid burns or other injuries. • Refer to a specific authorized Harley-Davidson service manual for correct disassembly and reassembly procedures for any parts that need to be removed to facilitate installation. • Motorcycle exhaust fumes are toxic and poisonous and must not be inhaled. Always run motorcycle in a well-ventilated area. • Do not perform any installation steps under the influence of alcohol, drugs, or if feeling fatigued. Warranty Briggs Made Cycle Parts, Inc. Rocker Boards™and all parts included in the conversion kit are warranted to the original purchaser to be free of manufacturing defects in materials and workmanship for a period of one (1) year from the original date of purchase. Any part that fails to conform to these conditions, will be repaired or replaced at the discretion of Briggs Made Cycle Parts, Inc. upon receipt of the defective part within the one year warranty period. In the event a part has been rendered defective, Briggs Made Cycle Parts, Inc. must be notified prior to the return of the defective part. Briggs Made Cycle Parts, Inc. will not be liable for any consequential or incidental damages resulting from the failure of any part, the breach of any warranties, the failure to deliver, delay in delivery or any other breach of duty between Briggs Made Cycle Parts, Inc. and a customer

YAMAHA YW50X SERVICE MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 25-11-2010

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1. Before removal and disassembly, remove all dirt, mud, dust and foreign material. 2. Use only the proper tools and cleaning equipment. Refer to the “SPECIAL TOOLS”. 3. When disassembling, always keep mated parts together. This includes gears, cylinders, pistons and other parts that have been “mated” through normal wear. Mated parts must always be reused or replaced as an assembly. 4. During disassembly, clean all of the parts and place them in trays in the order of disassembly. This will speed up assembly and allow for the correct installation of all parts. 5. Keep all parts away from any source of fire. EAS00021 REPLACEMENT PARTS Use only genuine Yamaha parts for all replacements. Use oil and grease recommended by Yamaha for all lubrication jobs. Other brands may be similar in function and appearance, but inferior in quality. EAS00022 GASKETS, OIL SEALS AND O-RINGS 1. When overhauling the engine, replace all gaskets, seals and O-rings. All gasket surfaces, oil seal lips and O-rings must be cleaned. 2. During reassembly, properly oil all mating parts and bearings and lubricate the oil seal lips with grease.
1-3 GEN INFO IMPORTANT INFORMATION EAS00023 LOCK WASHERS/PLATES AND COTTER PINS After removal, replace all lock washers/plates 1 and cotter pins. After the bolt or nut has been tightened to specification, bend the lock tabs along a flat of the bolt or nut. EAS00024 BEARINGS AND OIL SEALS Install bearings and oil seals so that the manufacturer’s marks or numbers are visible. When installing oil seals, lubricate the oil seal lips with a light coat of lithium-soap-based grease. Oil bearings liberally when installing, if appropriate. 1 Oil seal c C Do not spin the bearing with compressed air because this will damage the bearing surfaces. 1 Bearing

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