china manufactures contacts email metal inc ltd co 2019 mail

You search Auto repair manual PDF china manufactures contacts email metal inc ltd co 2019 mail, if there are search results will appear below. If search results do not exist, please search by others keyword.





Aprilia RSV4 Exhaust Systems Installation instructions

0

Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 26-10-2010

download
REMOVAL OF STOCK EXHAUST SYSTEM 1. 2. 5 Figure 3 Figure 4 Remove the metal collar and rubber damper from the stock muffler hanging bracket (Figure 3, 4). 3. 6 Unscrew the marked bolts and remove the plastic fasteners from the left and right side of the cowling (Figure 5, 6). 4. Figure 5 Figure 6 7 Unscrew the marked bolts and remove the lower part of the cowling (Figure 7). 5. Figure 7
8 Figure 8 Figure 9 Coat the bolt and interior of the metal clamp with spring hook whit Akrapovič anti-seize lead-free copper paste (black tube) and correctly install it onto the stock collector. Hand tighten the bolt (Figure 9, 10). WARNING: use anti-seize copper paste on bolt threads and interior of the metal clamp! 2. 1. Coat the bolt and interior of the metal clamp with Akrapovič antiseize lead-free copper paste (black tube) and correctly install it onto the link pipe (Figure 8). WARNING: use anti-seize copper paste on bolt threads and interior of the metal clamp

Incoming search terms:

HONDA CB1000R AKRAPOVIC SLIP-ON EXHAUST SYSTEM REMOVAL And Installation instructions

0

Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 01-11-2010

download
1. Put the motorcycle on a side stand, we recommend a racing stand. Make sure, that surface is solid and flat. 2. Untighten the bolt on the metal clamp at the muffler – collector joint, unscrew the bolts from the muffler brackets, and remove the muffler (Figure 1, 2, 3, 4). T-handle 8mm wrench T-handle 12mm wrench T-handle 13mm wrench T-handle 10mm swiveling wrench T-handle 12mm swiveling wrench T-handle 3mm three hexagon key wrench T-handle 5mm three hexagon key wrench T-handle 8mm three hexagon key wrench Combination 13mm wrench Combination 17mm wrench Spring puller Figure 1 Figure 2 Figure 3 Figure 4
NAV – 401 3 Figure 7 Figure 8 Figure 9 Figure 10 3. Remove the metal collar and the rubber damper from the lower stock muffler bracket (Figure 5, 6). 4. For open slip-on only: for easier dismount of stock collector unscrew the bolt from the water cooler hanging bracket and slightly remove the cooler – do not disconnect the cooling system tubes! (Figure 7) , loosen the header tubes flanges (Figure 8) , untighten the bolts of the metal clamps A from stock collector – header tubes joint and then unscrew the bolt from the collector bracket (Figure 9, 10). Make sure not to damage the cooling fins of the cooler during this process. Figure 5 Figure 6
NAV – 401 4 5. For open slip-on only: Unscrew the lambda sensor and remove the stock collector (Figure 11, 12). Remove the metal collar and the rubber dampers from the stock collector bracket (Figure 13). INSTALLATION OF THE AKRAPOVIC SLIP-ON EXHAUST SYSTEM: 1. Unsrew the bolts and remove the right foot peg. Assemble the additional Akrapovic metal bracket, reinstall the foot peg and tighten the bolts (Figure 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19)

Incoming search terms:

Harley- Davidson Bagger Audio factory service manual for removal

0

Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 03-04-2012

download
POWER & SPEAKER HARNESS INSTALLATION- (Read electrical connections prior to connecting center power and ground wires) 1. Disconnect battery (negative cable first!) 2. Remove outer faring cover 3. Route long speaker wires from fairing area through tank channel to seat area. 4. Route one pair of speaker wires under each fender strut support; purple and purple and black wires to the right and green and green and black wires to the left. AMPLIFIER INSTALLATION- 1. Factory installed electronics will determine suggested placement of amplifier. 2. Position and attach amplifier to outer fairing support bars with supplied wire ties. (Electra/Ultra/Street Glide) BAGGER AUDIO™ LIDS INSTALLATION- Detach factory lid by removing the 2 screws holding the factory strap to inner lid and 5 small torque screws holding lid to factory latch assembly. (Consult factory service manual for further instructions) Remove metal strap from behind factory seal (This is the metal strap that the previous 5 small torque screws were removed from) Position metal strap in same location on your new lid. (If you purchased your product unpainted, you must install the supplied seal to your finished lid) Reattach BAGGER AUDIO™ LIDS by installing the 5 small torque screws in the same location as on the factory lid. (We suggest that you have an assistant hold the lid in place while attaching your new lids) Replace factory nylon Hinge straps with new nylon straps supplied in kit. Use metal straps and machined screws to secure the nylon hinge straps. 
 Place a small bead of silicone on the inside rim of the speaker basket to create a watertight seal between the inside of the lid and the speaker. 
 Install speaker into the bottom of the lid (not through the top opening) with supplied stainless screws and washers (4 per lid). Be sure to center speaker in lid opening to ensure proper speaker grill placement. Install speaker with terminals facing toward the front of the lid. One 1/4″ hole must be drilled in each bag. Holes can be positioned at the ownerʼs discretion. Place rubber grommet in drilled hole before running wires

HONDA CBR 1000 RR AKRAPOVIC SLIP-ON & SLIP-ON STREET LEGAL EXHAUST SYSTEM REPAIR

0

Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 17-11-2011

download
INSTALLATION OF THE AKRAPOVIC SLIP-ON STREET LEGAL SYSTEMbinstalling the independent link pipe:m1. onto the stock collector properly install the metal ring for attaching the spring (Figure 27, 28) 2. install the metal clamp onto the Akrapovic independent link pipe (Figure 29) 3. slide the Akrapovic independent link pipe onto the stock collector; do not tighten the metal clamp (Figure 30) 4. attach the spring (Figure 31) 5. make sure the link pipe is not touching the frame and other parts installing the muffler: 1. correctly position the carbon-fiber clamp and slide it onto the muffler. WARNING: open the clamp to slightly wider than the diameter of the outer sleeve of the muffler – do not scrape it along the muffler outer sleeve! Do not fully tighten the bolts of the clamp (Figure 32) 2. position the muffler correctly and slide it onto the outlet side of the link pipe (Figure 33) 3. position and attach the springs (Figure 34) 4. tighten the carbon-fiber clamp onto the stock chassis hanging bracket on the frame (both sides of the motorcycle (Figure 35, 36, 37) 5. tighten the metal clamp at the independent link pipe – stock collector connection (Figure 38) 6. tighten the bolts of the carbon-fiber clamp. 7. reattach the stock heat shield (Figure 39, 40)8. reattach the rider’s footrest bracket (Figure 41) 9. make sure the muffler is not touching other parts of the motorcycle 10. reattach the license plate holder and turn signal lamps (Figure42, 43)11. reconnect the electrical leads for the rear light and reattach the fastback and both seats

Incoming search terms:

Express ATVS -250cc Cobra Setup/ Installation Manual

0

Filed Under (Cobra) by admin on 10-11-2010

download
Unpacking your Cobra Installing the front shock Installing the front tires Installing rear shocks Installing the rear tires Installing seats and harnesses Steering wheel installation Roll cage installation Safety checks / Adjustments General maintenance Unpacking your Cobra First off you should pull the carton off from your new 250 Cobra cart. Inspect the cart thoroughly to make sure that your new Cobra has not been heavily damaged. You will notice that the product has a metal frame holding it in place; you may want to start removing bolts from the shipping steel frame. The next step is to remove the metal frame and lift it off of the cart. Remove any of the metal frame that may afford resistance when working on the cart it self. Be careful the metal frame may be heavy and sharp. Now would also be a good time to inspect your Cobra a little more thoroughly. In the box with the Cobra you should have found a box containing miscellaneous hardware. Installing the front shock Using some of the bolts you found in your box, install the front shocks sliding the bolt through the brackets and tighten the nut down. Next, you will need to place the ball head into the turning arm, then tighten the castle nut and insert a cotter pin so that the castle nut doesn’t loosen and become a hazard. Installing the front tires
Find the front tires and place them on the front hub and place the lug nuts on the studs. Tighten them down. Make sure that all of the lug nuts are on tightly. Installing the rear shocks Moving to the rear of the Cobra you will notice the rear shocks are not inserted. Place the rear shocks into the bracket on the rear of the Cobra. Slide one of the provided bolts through the bracket and shock eyelet and tighten the bolt down. Installing the rear tires Now that the shocks have been placed properly you can install the rear tires, place the tires onto the axle then place the rear rim lined up onto the axle and tighten the provided castle nut down. Place the cotter pin through the axle and bend off to the side. This is so the castle nut does not loosen under load. Installing the seats and harnesses
(The arrow points to an example of where the seat bolts mount) Find the two racing seats shipped in the box with the Cobra. You will need to affix them to the frame by sliding the bolts up through the bottom of the frame. This can be tricky so have patience. Once both seats have been placed in the cart and tightened find the harnesses. Once found the harnesses mount to a bracket behind the seats. Place a bolt through the bracket and bolt the harnesses down tightly. Installing the steering wheel Find the steering wheel and place it onto the steering wheel mount. Grab the six small screws and place them through the steering wheel and mount, tighten them down but also make sure the top of the wheel is facing up. Installing the roll cage

HONDA 420 RANCHER 2×4/4×4 2007-2009 CLUTCH KIT INSTRUCTIONS

0

Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 22-12-2011

download
Remove key from the ignition switch. Remove the side panels from both sides. Remove both foot wells. 2. Drain coolant. Remove the oil drain plug from the motor; if you carefully drain it into a clean container you should be able to reuse it. 3. Disconnect shift motor (on electric shift models only). Remove coolant hoses. 4. Remove the bolts that mount the front differential to the frame, no other parts need to be removed. Carefully slide the front differential towards the front of the machine; you might need to lift up slightly to get the differential to move. Remove the drive shaft. Remove o-ring on output shaft (on motor). 5. Remove the fuel pump. 6. Loosen the front crankcase cover bolts, keep track of each bolt length and location. Slowly remove the crankcase cover. Carefully watch for o-ring shims and dowel pins that may fall out. 7. Unstake the nut holding the clutch on and remove nut. Using Honda tool #07933-HB3000A thread the large part of the tool into the center of the clutch. Tighten the center bolt on the tool while holding the large part of the tool with a wrench. This will pull the clutch off the machine. Place the clutch on a clean work surface. EPI performance.com
8. Using the c-clamps push down slightly on the outside cover and remove the four e-clips. Keeping track of which way they come off, remove the round metal plates one at a time. This will allow you to see the complete spring. Remove one end of each spring using a spring tool or needle nose pliers and then remove springs. Install the EPI springs by inserting the spring into the outer edge first. Using a spring tool or pliers (45 degree bent pliers work well) pull on the spring and insert the end into the hole. Install the metal plates and the e-clips. If you can’t get the plates to sit flat make sure each clutch arm is flat against the bottom plate of the clutch. Occasionally when you put the springs on, the clutch arms will pop up. Slide the clutch into the machine. The Sprague clutch is marked “outside” when installing make sure this is facing out. Torque clutch nut to 87 ft/lbs. 9. Clean the gasket surface on the motor and on the cover. Put a thin layer of Honda Bond or Yamabond semi-drying liquid gasket (or something similar as long as it is semi-drying) on the crankcase cover. Carefully install crankcase cover, do not force cover on. Torque bolts to 9 ft/lbs. 10. Install the fuel pump. 11. Install the o-ring on the output shaft (on motor) and install the drive shaft. Carefully slide the front differential back into place and mount to the frame. Install the coolant hoses. Refill your engine coolant to the proper level according to your owner’s manual. 12. Install the oil drain plug. Refill your engine to the proper level according to your owner’s manual. You can reuse your oil if it is clean and was drained into a clean container. Only use manufactures recommended oil. 13. Be sure to double check coolant and oil levels and to look for any leaks after the machine has run for a few minutes. 14. Go out and ride your machine. If your performance doesn’t seem right double check to make sure everything has been done properly. 15. EPI is constantly testing our products. Sometimes there is a need to contact the user with new technical information. To ensure that you are receiving this information visit our web site EPIperformance.com to register your clutch kit.

Incoming search terms:

Suzuki GSX-R 1000 AFR Tuner INSTALLATION MANUAL

0

Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 20-02-2012

download
The installation of the AFR Tuner should be done by experienced technicians only. Always disconnect the battery from the motorcycle before making any modification to the wiring harness. Remove the negative terminal from the battery before starting the installation work. The quality of the installation work greatly affects the reliability of the AFR Tuner and the motorcycle. Work precisely and very carefully when modifying the wiring harness of the vehicle. Always double check that the wire you are about to cut or tap into is the correct one. The ECM or the AFR Tuner can be destroyed by a faulty installation. 3.2. Installing the AFR Tuner to the wiring harness 3.2.1. Main cable The AFR Tuner connects to the motorcycle through its Main connector . Figure 2 shows the wiring diagram and the necessary modifications, which needs to be made when installing the unit into the fuel injection system of the motorcycle. Information about the ECM terminal numbers and wire colors for some popular motorcycles can be found in Chapter 6 . The best location for installing the AFR Tuner main unit is at the passenger seat area of the motorcycle mounted in the trunk space or on the subframe under the fairing, as this place provides protection from engine heat and the weather. Electrical contact between the metal casing of the AFR Tuner and the rear subframe must be prevented by using insulating material, such as the included self adhesive velcro strips. If necessary use some cable ties to secure the unit in place. The installation of the AFR Tuner into the wiring harness involves tapping into some wires and cutting others while connecting the two ends to the AFR Tuner. The harness modifications are best done near the ECM, since most of the wires can be found there. Part of the wiring modifications are related to connecting the AFR Tuner in-line between the ECM and the fuel injectors. In such cases when the motorcycle is equipped with primary and secondary injectors the AFR Tuner has to be installed on the primary injectors, which operate under all engine conditions. Correct grounding of the AFR Tuner is very important for electrical noise reduction. The above mentioned insulation of the metal case from the motorcycle frame is necessary for the same reason, which is to avoid the forming of a ground loop. An even more important requirement is the correct connection of the three ground wires of the AFR Tuner. As shown on Figure 2 , these three wires must be led out separately to the ECM and connected together at same point where the ECM ground wire is tapped into. This point should be as close to the ECM terminal as possible. For best quality of the electrical contacts all connections should be done by soldering and covering the exposed part of the wire with heat shrink tubing. For reliability reasons do not use clip on type wire taps

Incoming search terms:

Triumph Seats are functional and firm Installation

0

Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

download
1. Un-pack the accessory pack from under the new seat. 2. Remove the stock seat from your bike. 3. From the underside of the stock seat, remove the 2 metal hooks fixed by a single bolt to the seat pan. There is one metal hook on each side, as shown in the photo, right. The securing bolt also holds the safety strap on some seat types. 4. Replace the stock bolt on the old seat. 5. From the underside of your new Retro Racer Seat remove the 2 bolts provided each side of the seat pan, as shown in the photo below. 6. Fit one metal hook each side, making sure they face the same direction as on the stock seat. 7. If it is wished to remove the safety strap (Grey Top and Black seats only) do so at this point: NOTE: Removing the Safety Strap makes the bike suitable only for Solo use. 8. Remove the accessory pack from under the seat. Fit the rear brackets to the rear of the seat, as shown in the photo, right. 9. The rear fixing lugs are bolted to the seat pan, not moulded as on the stock seat. The photo below shows the attached bracket. 10. Tighten so that the bracket is held, but not tight, then test fit on the bike. 11. When properly lined up remove the seat and tighten all the bolts to 12Nm 12. Finally re-fit the new seat, using Jenks Thumb Bolts for preference: Standard Length: SBB (Black) 02 SBN (Nickel) 02 Hidden Length UTB (Black) 02 UTN (Nickel) 02 NOTE: Regularly check the Bolts are tight, approx 20Nm, which is about as tight as can be made using fingers on the knurled grip. Do not tighten with pliers. For added security, lock washers may be used if desired

Kawasaki Vulcan Front Suspension Lowering Kit Installation manual

0

Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 27-02-2011

download
INSTALLATION 1. This lowering method requires replacement of the front spring spacers. This is a simple task, and is completely reversible. First, raise the front tire off of the ground before you begin. Raise the motorcycle so no weight is applied to the front wheel. 2. Cover the gas tank with a thick towel to prevent scratching. Don’t omit this…you’ll be sorry if you do! 3. If the handlebar risers are OEM (stock), loosen the handlebars in their clamps and lift them from the risers, carefully placing them on the gas tank on a thick towel to prevent scratching. This will allow room for the spring spacers to be removed from the front forks. 4. Using a small knife blade, sharp screw driver, etc. in the pinch grove on each side of the triple clamp, gently pry upwards and pop the chromed plastic covers off. These are the covers on the top of the front forks, covering the spring retainers. Below these chrome caps, you’ll find a gold anodized metal plug with a small counter bore in the center. This is the part used to retain the springs within the front fork tubes. Using an extension bar, large Phillips screwdriver, etc., press down a bit in the counter bored area of the plug to take the pressure off of the small internal “C” ring. While this “gold” colored plug is depressed, remove the internal C-ring. The C-ring is made of small diameter wire. Once the C-ring is removed, slowly release the pressure on the plug and it’ll push itself out of the top of the shock. The picture below is of the upper fork leg with the gold retaining plug removed. 5. Stick a finger into the fork tube, and slide the OEM tubular spacer up and out of the fork tube. 6. The picture below illustrates the use of a Scootworks lowering spacer with the fork spring. On the right hand end of the you’ll see a Scootworks lowering spacer. The fork spring stays in the front fork, and you’ll drop in the spacer with the desired amount of lowering. The approximate amount of lowering is marked on each Scootworks spacer. 7. Select the spacers for the desired amount of lowering. The longest spacers supplied are marked as [1] and will lower the front suspension 1″. The spacers of middle length are marked as [2] and will lower the front suspension by 2″. The shortest spacers supplied in the kit are marked as [3] and will lower the front suspension by 3″. Omission of the spacers completely will lower the front suspension by approximately 4″. 8. Install the selected spacers in the fork tubes, on top of the internal fork spring. Place the gold anodized metal plugs on top of the spacers and press them back into the fork tube. Be sure to turn the metal plug so the side with the counter bore is facing outwards. Reinstall the C-rings, and gently lower the front end back to the ground. Make sure the C-rings seat themselves in their respective grooves when the weight of the bike is placed back on the front end. Re-install the chrome caps.

Incoming search terms:

Honda GL1000/1100 starter motor Removal/ Over haul Manual

0

Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 08-04-2011

download
1. Remove the three long bolts that hold the sections together and separate them. Be careful as there are a series of flat thrust washers on each end of the armature (located in the middle section). 2. The end cap basically performs no function other than to cover the brush plate and commutator area as well as center the armature shaft in a pressed in bushing located in the end of the cap. 3. The drive end contains the reduction gearing and if need be, can be disassembled to replace the bearing. This is extremely unlikely. The shaft should turn freely and normally only requires a cleaning and grease application. If the bearing in fact needs replacing, simply remove the “C” clips on either end, drive out the bearing and reinstall with an appropriate size replacement. Any decent auto parts / industrial supply should be able to supply the correct bearing. 4. Remove the brush plate from the end of the center section by removing the screw at the one brush connection. Before removing the brushes, note that one of them has an insulating sleeve over the braided wire. The replacement must go in the same brush holder. Remove the brushes and replace if necessary and clean the brush plate. ** Brake Cleaner is a good general cleaner for this entire job. 5. Remove the thrust washers from brush plate end of the armature. Count them and ensure they go back on the correct way. 6. The end of the center section that had the drive end on it has a circular plate covering it with a short splined shaft protruding through the plate. Drive the plate out by tapping the opposite end of the section on the shaft – just lightly with a rubber hammer or piece of wood to protect the shaft. Once the plate is out, remove the armature from the section. You will find more thrust washers at this end. Make sure they go back on correctly. 7. In the center of the center section there are four large Philips screws. These hold in the field coils found within the housing. Using an “impact driver”, loosen the four screws that go around the circumference of the center section and remove them. Remove the 10mm nut for the battery connection and the accompanying fiber insulating washers. With the screws and nut removed, the entire field coil assembly should withdraw entirely from the housing. There will be four (4) metal plates that the screws mounted into come falling out. They are easily replaced into the field coils when you slide it back into the housing. Do not be alarmed that you suddenly have four loose metal parts. 8. With everything out of the housing, thoroughly clean everything using the Brake Cleaner. Although the cleaner will dry without leaving a film, it is suggested that the components be dried with compressed air. 9. Get some extremely fine steel wool (“000″ of even “0000″ is better) and gently clean the metal surfaces or bars of the armature and the commutator. Blow with compressed air. 10. Using a volt/ohmeter, test for continuity between pairs of armature bars (the long ones). There should be continuity between the pairs around the entire circumference.

Incoming search terms:

Incoming search terms: