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Harley-Davidson touring bikes WHEELDOCK EZ-UP Center Stand Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 18-04-2012

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Unlike other center stands, the WHEELDOCK EZ UP stand requires very little effort to operate and can usually be done while still on the bike by simply pushing down on the foot lever with your left foot. Once you feel both feet of the center stand in contact with the ground, transfer your weight up off of the seat and onto the foot lever of the center stand. The stand should rotate under the bike and a bit forward lifting the bike quite easily. CAUTION: Never attempt to raise the bike with a passenger on board, as you will damage the foot lever. You can also raise the bike on the center stand by using the following traditional method: Place the bike on the side stand and step off to the side. From the left side of the bike, push the bike up to the vertical position and press down on the foot lever until both feet of the stand are in contact with the ground. Now apply weight to the foot lever while lifting up on the bike. For cleaning the rear wheel: first place a ½-inch piece of plywood under the stand and use this (beside the bike) method for placing the bike up on the plywood spacer; this will allow the wheel to rotate freely for cleaning. Do not try this while on the bike, as it will require too much foot pressure on the lever. You now have two options to get the bike off of the stand: You can simply rock the bike forward, or put the bike in gear and drive off in most cases as long as you are parked on a flat, level surface. Tips for solving common problems: If you have the correct height stand and you still have difficulty getting the bike up on the stand check the following: the bike must be in neutral, the wheel should be straight forward and not cocked, do not hold the front brake lever and make sure you have 15 lb or more air pressure in the rear suspension. These are the most common problems we encounter.

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Steering Stem Nut Installation Instructions & Owners Manual

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 26-11-2010

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Sport Bike Damper Kit Installation Instructions DISCLAIMER: All GPR Sport Bike damper kits are manufactured to be used ONLY w/ the stock top triple clamp and frame. If either is modded, aftermarket or crash damaged, the kit will not install properly and GPR will not be held responsible for the consequences of improper installation due to this or any other improper mounting or modifying. The provided instructions must be followed precisely, as failure to do so can result in the GPR damper kit being installed incorrectly. An improper installation may lead to a variety of undesirable steering problems. Please take your time and carefully follow the installation instructions. As always, give us a call if you have any questions, we’re more than happy to assist you in getting the damper kit mounted on your bike properly 1. Remove the stock Steering Stem Nut (SSN) and washer from the stock top triple clamp steering stem. Carefully set the stock nut aside, as you may be using it later. Bikes requiring a specific GPR SSN to replace the stock SSN are listed at the end of this installation sheet. If your bike is on the chart, throw you stock SSN in the toolbox along w/ the washer, as you may need it at a later date if for any reason you need to remove the GPR kit from your bike. Stock SSN’s that are either ‘domed’ at the top or ‘flanged’ at the bottom will definitely NOT work, may lead to problems and should NOT be reinstalled during the baseplate installation. See #2 below for further instructions about both SSN/Steering stem and arm clearance issues 2. With the stock SSN and washer removed, place the GPR Baseplate over the steering stem on the top triple clamp and reinstall either the stock SSN or the GPR SSN provided. Torque SSN down to the recommended specs as per the owner’s manual for your particular bikes make and model. NEVER reinstall the stock washer that came on the bike! The baseplate is now your new washer. If you do accidentally use the stock washer, the arm on the stabilizer will most likely ‘rub’ on the nut. It will be too high, potentially locking the steering and handlebars, thus making your bike un steerable and unridable. DO NOT ride your bike until all installation steps have been completed and you can visually verify that there is clearance between the arm of the stabilizer and the steering stem and/or SSN. Once the installation is complete, at the #1 setting you

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TVS50 Voice Processing System Installation Manual

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Filed Under (TVS) by admin on 27-10-2010

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installation must be performed by a qualified professional installer. If required, provide the telephone company with the following technical information:  The telephone numbers to which the system will be connected Make: Panasonic Model: KX-TVS50 FCC Registration No.: found on the back of the unit Ringer Equivalence No.: 0.4B Facility Interface Code: 02LS2 Service Order Code: 9.0F Required Network Interface Jack: RJ11C Connection to the Telephone Line The VPS unit must not be connected to coin operated telephone lines. Contact the telephone company before connecting this unit to a party line. Telephone Service Problems The telephone company may temporarily discontinue service if the VPS causes problems with the telephone network. Discontinued service usually occurs after prior notification. When prior notification is not practical, the telephone company must:  Promptly notify the customer of the temporarily discontinued service.  Provide the customer with an opportunity to correct the situation or problem.  Inform the customer of the right to bring a complaint to the Federal Communication Commission pursuant to the procedures set forth in Subpart E of Part 68 of the FCC Telephone Equipment Rules. Telephone Network and Terminal Equipment compatibility Availability of Telephone Interface Information When requested by the customer, the telephone company must provide the following information:  technical information concerning interface parameters.  technical information not specified in FCC rules such as the number of ringers that can be connected to a particular telephone line. Changes in Telephone Company Communications Facilities, Equipment, Operations, and Procedures The telephone company may make changes to its communication facilities, equipment, operations, or procedures, when such action is reasonably required in the operation of its business, and is not inconsistent with FCC rules (FCC Telephone Equipment Rules, Part 68). The customer shall be given adequate notice in writing when changes will

Kawasaki 650/360 Prairie Lift Kit Installation and removal Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1) Place jack under center of ATV front end and lift until front wheels clear the ground. Be careful to support ATV properly so that it is securely supported but so that A-arms and shocks can droop to full extension. 2) Remove front wheels. 3) Remove or loosen front plastic. 4) Remove C-clip and nut at the top of the strut. 5) Screw bracket “A” on top of strut to the same torque specifications as the nut. 6) Place the top adapter “A” through the top of the strut mount, and screw the original nut on the top of bracket “A” securing it to the strut mount. Tighten this nut to the required manufacturer specifications and replace the factory C-clip. 7) Repeat the procedure for the other side. 8) Install the wheels, torque wheel lug nuts to manufacturer’s specifications, lower and remove jack. Check for clearance problems or misalignment. Rear Lift 1) Place jack under ATV at the rear of the bottom skid plate and lift until the weight is off of the suspension. Be careful to secure the ATV properly so as not to fall off the jack. 2) Remove the bottom of the shock from the shock mount on the axle. 3) After removing the shock, jack the ATV up 1″-2″ further. 4) Place Bracket “B” between the shock and shock mount with the notched out ends facing downward. Insert stock bolt to secure bracket “B” to the shock mount and the shock. Fasten nut. 5) Insert the new 12x75mm Bolt to the top of bracket “B” and the shock eyelet and secure with a new 12mm nut. 6) Tighten all nuts and bolts to manufacturer’s torque specifications. 7) Install the wheels, torque wheel lug nuts to manufacturer’s specifications, lower and remove jack. Check for clearance problems or misalignment.

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Kawasaki Ninja 250 FAQ

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 15-11-2010

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Am I too small for this motorcycle? Duke – Sun May 14 17:38:31 2000 I’m only about 5’2″ and don’t have a problem, even though I can only touch the ground with the ends of my toes. Once you get a feel for the balance of the bike it’s not hard to keep everything upright. Only place I have trouble is pushing the bike backwards in a parking lot. Usually I just walk the bike (beside it) to where I can get on and get going. How does the EX500 compare to the EX250? Craig M. – Mon May 22 10:23:29 2000 I have both the EX250 and the EX500; both are Y2K models. The 250 is a screamer that performs well and can easily get me into trouble. My only complaints about the 250 are the excessive nose dive when getting on the front brake hard and the skittishness of the rear during high speed cornering. Both are easily corrected with suspension adjustments, I’ve just been too lazy to get the parts and do the work. A bit more wind protection would be great too. The 500 addresses these problems, the diving of the front end (to a degree); the rear’s skittishness and the wind protection. A plus for the 500 is the greater torque and power off the line; it pulls stronger (in my opinion) and will get you into illegal speed territory just a bit quicker than the 250. With greater weight, is has more stability in high speed and windy situations. Insurance is just about the same for both, with the 250 getting the nod for gas mileage. Service requirements are almost identical for both as well, being that they’re both parallel twins, the technology is the virtually the same. The downfalls of the 500: $2K more than the 250 (can do a lot to the 250 with that kind of money); buzzy mirrors, barely useful; heavier weight to have to push around the garage; lesser gas mileage (55-60 MPG; 250 pushes 70 MPG easily); engine is worse than a nervous dog shaking around at idle and at speed (here the 250 is far superior and much smoother). In my opinion, the 500 is a better suited for a larger rider, from a comfort standpoint. I feel I can stretch out a bit more on it than the 250 (I’m 5′ 9″, 160 lbs). The 250′s brakes are better tuned than the 500 and the shifter is much smoother. That may be due to the 3,500 mile difference between the two bikes. Bottom line, both bikes are great, the 250 is now my wife’s ride (mainly) and the 500′s mine (unless she steals the keys away). In time, I’ll make the adjustments to the 250; she doesn’t push it like I do.

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YAMAHA PW 50Y SPECIFICATION AND OWNER'S MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 19-11-2010

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Rear brake lever The rear brake lever is located on the left handlebar grip. To apply the rear brake, pull this lever toward the handlebar grip. EAU13182 Fuel tank cap To remove the fuel tank cap, turn it counterclockwise, and then pull it off. To install the fuel tank cap, insert it into the tank opening, and then turn it clock- wise. WARNING EWA11091 Make sure that the fuel tank cap is properly closed after filling fuel. Leaking fuel is a fire hazard. EAU13221 Fuel Make sure there is sufficient gasoline in the tank. WARNING EWA10881 Gasoline and gasoline vapors are extremely flammable. To avoid fires and explosions and to reduce the risk of injury when refueling, follow these instructions. 1. Before refueling, turn off the engine and be sure that no one is sitting on the vehicle. Never refuel while smoking, or while in the vicinity of sparks, open flames, or other sources of ignition such as the pilot lights of water heaters and clothes dryers. 2. Do not overfill the fuel tank. When refueling, be sure to insert the pump nozzle into the fuel tank filler hole. Stop filling when the fuel reaches the bottom of the filler tube. Because fuel expands when it heats up, heat from the engine or the sun can cause fuel to spill out of the fuel tank. Your Yamaha engine has been designed to use regular unleaded gasoline with a pump octane number [(R+M)/2] of 86 or higher, or a research octane number of 91 or higher. If knocking (or pinging) occurs, use a gasoline of a different brand or premium unleaded fuel. Use of unleaded fuel will extend spark plug life and reduce maintenance costs. Gasohol There are two types of gasohol: gasohol containing ethanol and that containing methanol. Gasohol containing ethanol can be used if the ethanol content does not exceed 10% (E10). Gasohol containing methanol is not recommended by Yamaha because it can cause damage to the fuel system or vehicle performance problems

How to Replacing Rear Main Seal 1

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 24-11-2010

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The next day I woke up early and drank lots of coffee before going out to the garage. I knew I had two distinct problems confronting me. First, I would have to purchase an impact tool in order to loosen the six bolts holding the clutch together. Also, I would have to purchase at least three 8mm by 50mm bolts and nuts in order to prevent the clutch from exploding when the six bolts were unscrewed. For the third time in two days, I went to Sears and asked the salesman, (who I now I knew as Art,) where I could find an impact tool. He did not know what it was I was looking for, but he asked another employee and soon I had the tool as well as a 6mm Allen socket. Unfortunately, the Allen socket only came in 3/8″ drive, and the impact tool only came in 1/2″ drive. Thinking quickly, I purchased a 1/2″ to 3/8″ adapter, as well as a 3lb. dead- blow hammer. On the way home, I stopped at a Chief Auto Parts to buy the bolts I would need. The closest size they had were 8mm by 40mm, which was nearly 10mm too short. I was unsure whether the clutch cover bolts were coarse thread or fine thread, so I bought three of each, along with corresponding nuts. Finally, around 11 o’clock in the morning, I was back at the garage ready to work. I prepared the impact tool and placed the adapter and the Allen socket on it. I began to hammer on the end of the tool, trying to loosen each of the six bolts. None of them seemed to move, even though it seemed the impact tool was turning. Finally, I put the Allen socket on the breaker bar and found that all of the bolts had actually come loose. The tension from the clutch spring made it nearly impossible to see, however. I removed three of the bolts in a triangular pattern. Into these empty holes I threaded the fine- thread 40mm bolts with nuts attached and tightened them evenly. I was now able to remove the remaining Allen bolts. By slowly turning and loosening the nuts evenly on the 40mm bolts, I relieved the pressure from the clutch spring until the cover plate was free. I removed the cover plate, the clutch, the pressure plate, and finally the clutch spring. I had already marked each of the elements with Whiteout to insure that they would fit together the same way on installation. Apparently, this is essential as the flywheel could be rendered out-of-balance if the clutch components are not installed correctly. The flywheel itself was now exposed. I could see the five bolts that attached it to the crankshaft. I now used a tool I had fabricated. Although the manual describes two possible tools that can be fabricated, I found a piece of metal that resembled the tool and decided to use it. Unfortunately it was not strong enough and broke. I turned and looked at my workbench, and noticed a bracket which I had previously fabricated for mounting a mirror on my Vespa. The piece of steel was extremely strong and was already pre-drilled with correct-sized holes. It fit perfectly, so I placed it over the exposed bolt which protruded from the case, and placed the other end on one of the 40mm bolts, which I then bolted into the flywheel itself. I used the breaker bar again and removed the five bolts. The flywheel came loose after inserting two more 40mm bolts and tugging on them evenly

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SUZUKI DR 650SE Oil Filter Guard Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 10-11-2010

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1. Before starting make sure you have all the components in the exploded view below. The oil filter guard does not replace the stock oil filter cover but reinforces it with a heavy duty guard. 2. Clean the area around the oil filter housing of any dirt, mud, or grease. 3. Remove the three screws that hold the oil filter cover. 4. Remove the oil filter cover being careful not to loose the cover O-ring and the filter retaining spring. 5. Place the star lock washers over the three screws provided with your new guard. 6. Insert the screws into the mounting holes in the guard. 7. Place the stock oil filter cover over the three screws protruding from the guard. 8. Place the oil filter cover O-ring in the O-ring groove in the stock cover. 9. Place the spring over the boss on the inside of the oil filter cover. 10. Position the entire assembly on the engine and hand tighten the three screws. Be very careful not to loose the O-ring or spring. 11. Check to make sure the O-ring did not get pinched. 12. Tighten the three screws a little at a time with a final torque of 4 ft-lbs (48 in-lb) or 5.5 N-m or 0.55 kg-m. Be careful not to over tighten the screws. Also before inserting screws make sure the threaded holes are free of dirt and grit. Dirt and grit mixed with oil will soon wear away the soft aluminum and cause the threads to fail. DO NOT eliminate the lock washers. The lock washers are there to help prevent the screws from loosening due to engine vibration 13. Getting all the pieces to mount up can be a challenge but with a little practice you should become an expert. If a permanent installation is desired the oil filter cover can be glued to the guard with RTV to aid in installation and give you one less thing to hold together. My best advice is don’t hurry and be thorough. The most costly mistakes are made when you are in a hurry and are not thinking. It might be a good idea just to practice taking the oil filter cover off and putting it back on again so you know how everything fits with the filter, O-rings, and screws. 14. Start the engine and look for leaks or other problems. It is a good idea to inspect your bike before each ride and check your oil level and look for loose bolts or other damage.

Basic Motorcycle Maintenance/ Repair Manual

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 24-11-2010

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1. Types of Motorcycles and Components a. Identify off-road, street bikes, three and four wheel cycles. b. Identify motorcycle components. 2. Demonstrate Safe Working Habits in the Shop. a. Demonstrate, list, and discuss personal safety habits. b. Demonstrate, list, and discuss shop safety. 3. Correct use of Tools (common and measuring) and Equipment a. Perform work on cycles using proper hand tools. b. Perform work on cycles using shop equipment correctly. 4. Specifications in a Shop Manual a. Locate engine tune-up specification. b. Locate engine lubrication and cooling capacities. 5. Identify and Describe Different Types of Fasteners a. Threaded and non-threaded. b. Nuts, bolts, and washers. c. Metric and English. d. Strength and Grade. e. Thread inserts. 6. Identification and Description of Engine Fundamentals a. Basic two cycle engine. b. Basic four cycle engine. c. Displacement and compression ratios. d. Horsepower and torque. 7. Disassembly, Service, and Reassembly of the Components of the Clutch and Final Drive Assembly a. Remove, measure and replace clutch components. b. Clean, lubricate, and measure chain. c. Clean and measure sprockets. d. Adjust and align rear wheel. e. Discuss shaft drive. 8. Service of Brakes, Tires, and Wheel Assemblies a. Service and adjust drum brake. b. Service disc brake caliper. c. True a wheel by adjusting spokes. d. Replace or repair a tire. 9. Attitudes and Work Habits a. Identify and develop positive attitudes toward tasks and fellow employees appropriate for the workplace, including giving and accepting criticism and praise. b. Identify and develop productive work habits, including attending to detail, completing tasks, maintaining the work setting and recording data. c. Identify and develop collaborative/teamwork skills, including solving problems in groups, building consensus, and responding to supervision

URAL motorcycles Installation and Removal Manual

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Filed Under (Ural) by admin on 02-11-2010

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The Repair Manual provides information on setup, tune-ups, servicing, diagnosing problems, removing and installing components (otherwise referred to as “assembly units”), overhauling components, adjusting repaired components, and testing the repaired motorcycle. The increasing competition in the motorcycle market requires, more than ever, careful attending to the customer in order to assure the owner satisfaction with one’s motorcycle and to maintain customer confidence in the dealer and factory. It is important to repair the client’s vehicles correctly in a well organized and clean repair shop equipped with all necessary tools and parts. In such an environment, and having been trained at the technical training course, a repair technician will prove to be competent and efficient. Repairs on the engine and transmission especially, should be carried out in dust-free places. During breaks, disassembled transmissions and openings leading to the inner engine parts or lubrication holes should be protected from dust by clean rags. Valves, valve springs, spring retainers, rockers, pushrods, tappets, pistons, connecting rods and bearings should be put away in suitable boxes. Disassembled parts have to be cleaned and thoroughly checked for the following: Sliding and rolling surfaces for wear and freedom from scoring marks, all metal parts, particularly castings, tempered parts and welded joints as well for cracks and corrosion, and rubber parts for suitableness. As a rule, all gaskets and tab washers are to replaced upon reassembling. When disassembling parts, attention has to be paid to the arrangement of lock-washers on screws and nuts, spacing washers, gaskets, rubber mounts and so on. If necessary, mark mating parts in order to guarantee correct assembly.

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