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motorcycle Turn Signal Conversion Kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 09-11-2010

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1. Place motorcycle on solid, level ground and on center stand if equipped. 2. Remove your turn signal lens. Place it upside down and clean the lens interior with the supplied alcohol wipe. Allow to completely air dry. Note: the LEDs are mounted to the inside of the turn signal lens with the LEDs making direct contact with the lens. The supplied silicone is used to secure the LED board to the lens. It remains flexible but can be removed. Test fit the board in your lens prior to using silicone. 3. Using a small screwdriver, poke a small hole in the end of the tube of silicone. Place a dab of silicone on each of the 12 LEDs on the circuit board. CAUTION : Note the position of the metal pins on the back of the LED board, They must be located 90 degrees from where the holes are that secure the lens to the housing. See attached diagram. 4. Position the round circuit board over the inside of your turn signal lens with the LEDs facing down. Get the board as centered as possible. Allow the silicone to make contact with the inside of the lens and then push down and slightly rotate the board back and forth to allow the LEDs to make contact with the lens surface. Repeat other side. NOTE : the silicone will require 30 minutes in 70 degree weather to tack up. Full cure will occur within 24 hours. We suggest not riding for several hours if possible to allow the best adhesion. 5. You will need to access the following wires; running light (license plate can be used), brake lights, right turn and left turn. Disassemble the bike as needed to gain access to the wiring. Shop Tip: we have found that on the Yamaha Star Series and the Kawasaki Cruisers that installation is much easier when you remove the turn signal bar from the fender. On the Yamahas, there are 3 bolts holding the moustache in position. The wires will unplug from behind the license plate. On the Kawasakis, unplug the signals under the seat and bend the tabs under the fender to be able to remove the wires. 6. We have provided some tubing to slide over the wires so that when you re-install the bulb socket, our wires for the LED boards will not be pinched. This tube should be slid all the way into the turn signal housing. You may have to shorten the tubing for your installation. 7. You will need to run wires through the stem of the turn signal. You can see samples of how the various manufacturers signal housings come apart on our web site. Click on “Other Lighting Products” and then “Turn Signal Conversion Kits” and follow the link. We suggest placing the removed turn signal assembly on a towel on your work area. 7. You will need to leave 2″ of slack in the wires at the turn signal housing to allow for wire connection. 8. Reinstall the turn signal housing back on the motorcycle if removed. NOTE: both of the run/brake circuits must be used. You may shorten the wires only on the run/brake circuits as needed. Do not change the circuits under the heat shrink. T-Tap instructions. Lay the “donor” wire in the slot in the burgandy connector. Close and snap together with pliars. Strip some insulation off of the wire which will be tapping into the factory wire. Crimp one of the pink connectors on the bare wire and plug it into the burgandy T-Tap 9. Connect the green wires from the run/brake circuits to the bikes running lights. The 2 greens can be connected together. 10. Connect the blue wires from the run/brake circuits to the bikes brake lights. The 2 blues can be connected together. 11. Take one of the red wires from a run/brake circuit and connect it to one of the black with white stripe wires coming from one of the LED boards using the supplied red butt connector. Connect the other run/brake circuit red wire to the remaining black with white stripe wire on the other LED board. 12. Connect the black wire from the LED board on the right side of the bike to the right turn signal positive (+) wire on the motorcycle. 13. Connect the black wire from the LED board on the left side of the bike to the left turn signal positive (+) wire on the motorcycle. 14. Plug the wires into the LED boards. If you hold the turn signal lens so that you are viewing the back of the LED board, position the connectors on the board at the 12 o’clock (top) position. The connector on the left is the positive (+) terminal. Connect the red wire to it. Connect the black wire to the remaining connector on the right side. 15. Check operation. LEDs should come on with running lights. LEDs will brighten when brake lights are applied. LEDs will shut off when the amber turn signal comes on. 16. Should you have any problems, please see the troubleshooting chart on our website.* * 17. Reassemble bike

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CUSTOM LED 2004-2006 YAMAHA ROAD STAR INTEGRATED TAIL KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 10-11-2010

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1 ) REMOVE THE SCREWS ON THE BACK SIDE OF THE TAIL LIGHT THAT HOLD THE CHROME TRIM TO THE TAIL LIGHT. 2 ) POSITION YOUR CUTTING WHEEL AS SHOWN IN THE PICTURE TO THE LEFT WHERE THE CLEAR PART OF THE LENS TURNS 90 DEGREES. THE CUTTING WHEEL SHALL REMAIN IN THE PLANE OF THE LENS. 3 ) PROCEED TO CUT INTO THE CLEAR LENS APPROXIMATELY HALF OF THE THICKNESS, ALL THE WAY AROUND THE PERIMETER OF THE LENS – BE SURE NOT TO CUT ALL THE WAY THROUGH BECAUSE IT WILL NOT GLUE BACK TOGETHER PROPERLY. SEE “TIPS FOR CUTTING YOUR LENS” BEFORE BEGINNING. TIPS FOR CUTTING YOUR LENS A) KEEP THE CUTTING WHEEL MOVING AND APPLY LIGHT PRESSURE. SITTING IN ONE SPOT WILL JUST MELT THE PLASTIC. WHEN YOU MAKE YOUR WAY AROUND THE ENTIRE PERIMETER, CLEAN ALL THE BURRED PLASTIC FROM AROUND THE EDGES AND FROM INSIDE THE GROOVE YOU’VE MADE. OPENING THE LENS 4 ) PLACE THE TIP OF A FLAT HEAD SCREWDRIVER IN THE GROOVE YOU HAVE CREATED. 5 ) GENTLY TWIST THE SCREWDRIVER TO CRACK THE GLUE ALONG THE GROOVE. NOTE: AS SOON AS YOU HEAR THE SOUND OF THE GLUE GIVING (A CRACK), MOVE THE SCREWDRIVER SLIGHTLY AND ADVANCE THE CRACK. SLOW AND STEADY IS THE NAME OF THE GAME HERE. IF YOU FIND A HARD SPOT, WEAKEN IT WITH THE CUTTING WHEEL AS NECESSARY. THE HARD PART IS OVER! YOU CAN RELAX NOW! 2 ©2005 Custom LED LLC. All Rights Reserved. 6 ) REMOVE THE SCREWS HOLDING THE STOCK LED BOARDS TO THE HOUSING (YOU WILL BE REUSING SOME OF THE SCREWS SO PUT THEM TO THE SIDE). 7 ) REMOVE THE STOCK LED ASSEMBLY FROM THE LENS HOUSING. YOU WILL NO LONGER NEED THE STOCK LED BOARD, DISPOSE OF IT AS YOU WISH. 8 ) GENTLY PRY OFF THE PLASTIC COVER TO EXPOSE THE DRIVER BOARD UNDERNEATH. 9 ) REMOVE THE SCREWS SUPPORTING THE DRIVER BOARD AND SNIP OFF THE THREE WIRES (BLUE, BLACK, YELLOW) AS SHOWN AS CLOSE TO THE CIRCUIT BOARD AS POSSIBLE! YOU WILL NEED TO CONNECT TO THESE WIRES LATER. 10 ) POP OUT THE LITTLE BLACK PLUG AS SHOWN IN THE PICTURE. YOU CAN POKE IT OUT FROM THE INSIDE OF THE HOUSING. WIRING UP YOUR CUSTOM LED BOARD PLACE YOUR CUSTOM LED INTEGRATED TAIL BOARD NEXT TO THE HOUSING AND MATCH THE WIRE COLORS AS FOLLOWS: TRY TO HANDLE THE CIRCUIT BOARD AS LITTLE AS POSSIBLE AS FINGERPRINTS AND DIRT WILL HINDER THE PERFORMANCE. • BLACK ON HARNESS TO 6″ BLACK ON CUSTOM LED BOARD • BLUE ON HARNESS TO 6″ BLUE ON CUSTOM LED BOARD • YELLOW ON HARNESS TO 6″ YELLOW ON CUSTOM LED BOARD USE THE THREE (3 OF 5) SUPPLIED ORANGE SPLICE CONNECTORS. PUSH THE TWO WIRES TO BE SPLICED TOGETHER INTO THE OPEN END. BE SURE TO PUSH THE WIRES ALL THE WAY IN (UNTIL YOU CAN SEE THEY HAVE REACHED THE OTHER SIDE). NOTE: YOU WILL NEED TO SEPARATE THE THREE WIRES FIRST BY CUTTING THE PLASTIC COLLAR THAT BINDS THEM. FOR THE WIRES TO FIT PROPERLY INTO THE CONNECTORS, YOU MUST ALSO REMOVE THE REMNANTS OF THE COLLAR FROM THE WIRES. NOTE: THE SPLICE IS MORE RELIABLE IF THE WIRE IS NOT STRIPPED. BE SURE TO SNIP OFF THE BARE ENDS OF THE WIRES ON THE CUSTOM LED TAIL TO ENSURE THAT THERE IS INSULATION WHERE THE SPLICE WILL OCCUR. THE SUPPLIED SPLICE CONNECTORS AUTOMATICALLY DISPLACE THE INSULATION AS NECESSARY. ONCE YOU DOUBLE CHECK YOUR COLOR MATCHING AND ARE ABSOLUTELY SURE THAT THE WIRES ARE FULLY INSERTED INTO THE SPLICE CONNECTORS DO THE FOLLOWING: 11 ) SQUEEZE THE SPLICE CONNECTORS FIRMLY WITH PLIERS. VISUALLY INSPECT YOUR CONNECTIONS TO SEE THAT THEY HAVE BEEN SPLICED PROPERLY INSIDE. 12 ) RUN THE GREEN AND BROWN WIRES THROUGH THE HOLE YOU OPENED UP IN STEP 9

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YAMAHA ROADLINER AND STRATOLINER LAY DOWN LICENSEPLATE/ TAIL LIGHT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Remove the license plate. Remove the license plate holder assembly from the rear fender (three 8mm Allen bolts 5mm wrench). Remove the five 4mm Allen screws underneath the rear fender which secure the taillight/turn signal assembly to the rear fender (3mm wrench). As shown in photo #2, pull the taillight assembly out away from the fender, turn it over, place a towel or rag between the light and fender and allow it to rest on the fender. 2. Locate the supplied triangular license plate mounting block, two 8 x 20mm Allen screws with holes driiled thru and three rubber washers. Place the two Allen screws thru the upper holes in the block and the rubber washers over the screws on the backside of the block. Start the screws into the upper holes on the fender. Use one of the three screws removed earlier from the original mount in the remaining lower hole of the new block sliding the remaining rubber washer between the block and fender. Tighten all three Allen screws secure enough to compress the rubber washers (4-6 ft lbs.). 3. Locate the supplied license plate mounting plate and LED lights. Cut off the excess red and black wires at the end of the black loom or tube. Referring to photo (1) thread the wires of the LED lights thru the small holes in the mounting plate, peel the cover from the adhesive backing on the lights and press them firmly into place as shown. 4. Locate the three supplied ¼” x ½” flat head Allen screws. Hold the plate up to the mounting block installed earlier with the wires at the bottom of the plate. Thread the wires from the LED lights thru the holes in the upper bolts of the block. Install the plate onto the block using the three flat head screws being sure to keep the exposed wire behind he plate as short as possible and fitting into the slot or cut out at the edge of the block. Snug the screws and again check to see tat the wires are in the slot or cut out in the block and do not become pinched as the screws are tightened. Tighten the screws securely. 5. Where the wires from the taillight go thru the fender there is a grommet, pull this grommet out from the fender. Thread the wires from the LED lights thru the grommet with the other wires. Replace the grommet into the fender and remove any slack from the wires under the fender. Cut the LED wires off at 6″ past the grommet. 6. Referring to photo (2) remove 2″ of the black tubing exposing the red and black wires on the LEDs. Locate the supplied brake/tail light dual function element (a red wire at one end with a red and orange wire at the other) and wire connectors. Cut all three wires on the dual element to 3″ long. Strip the end of the single red wire on the element and both of the red wires from the LEDs then connect them using one of the blue butt connectors. Connect the two black wires from the LEDs to any one of the black wires on the tail light or signals using one of the supplied splice connectors (place both black wires into one of the holes on the connector). Using the remaining splice connectors attach the red wire from the dual element to the yellow wire on the tail light and the orange wire to the blue wire on the tail light. Turn on the ignition and check that the LEDs are working both as tail and brake lights when the brakes are applied.

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The New Kawasaki ZX-6R Trading in gets easier and easier

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 18-02-2011

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didn’t go to my local Kawasaki shop expecting to trade in the 2004 636 I’d been happily riding. I honestly didn’t expect there to be anything on the floor that would motivate me to bring the bike in. Some of you reading this may be able to relate to what I am saying, the day you don’t look for something is the day that you find exactly what you didn’t know you need. That was the day I decided I needed to take home the new ZX-6R. The reworking of the new ZX-6R is more than just about looking good. According to KMC the engine has been redesigned from the crankcase up for the first time in ten years. Racing technology built into the new bike is a close-ratio cassette transmission that can be removed without the needing to split the main crankcases in case you needed to make repairs or adjustments at the track. They also tell us that the fuel injection system has shorter throttle bodies with a smaller diameter bore which claim to give this new smaller sized engine more torque in the mid-range. It also comes with a GPS – Gear Position Sensor. The new ZX-6R comes stock with a slipper clutch which is one difference between the 2004 and 2007. My 2004′s rear wheel would hop if I geared down before a corner and my engine rpms were too high. The slipper clutch allows quicker downshifts. To experience the gains of a slipper clutch you don’t have to buy a 2007 Kawasaki – it was introduced to the 636 in 2005. A quick glance at the exhaust might leave the impression that the ZX-6R comes stock with stacked twin small diameter exhaust cans but if you look closely you will see it is a single oval pipe with a shotgun styled end cap. The titanium pipe has the pre-chamber and catalyser located below the engine to keep the weight on the bike low and centered and the temperature of the under seat silencer reduced. Looking at the new Kawasaki with its fairing removed, I wonder how much more it would have cost the consumer to have an exhaust system that not only works wonders but would be worth showing off? Even if some of the systems of the new 600 look better hidden by plastic the bike does have a cohesive look and every year the fit and finish of Kawasaki’s bikes seem to get better. You can look at this bike from almost any angle and nothing jumps out at you – unless you are on the right side of the bike looking at the rear brake reservoir. It seems odd to me that they would leave the rear brake reservoir exposed. Another design feature of the smooth body of the 2007 ZX-6R is the lack of tie down points for any luggage. It can be argued that this is a bike intended for Sunday morning canyon rides or track days on weekends but if you want to take the 600 out for a weekend away then there is aftermarket solution. Ventura Racks allow you go on vacation with your bike. A Ventura Rack provides you with a frame that you attach to your bike that you can secure luggage to. There is no drilling of body work and the Ventura rack I got fit onto the bike perfectly the first try. One of the things I really like about the Ventura Rack is that you can easily attach bags that you may already have or you have the option of buying the Ventura luggage system. Just give yourself time before a motorcycle trip to pack

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HARLEY-DAVIDSON LARGE LED SILVER BULLETS INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 29-01-2011

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PROCEDURE STEP 1*Remove the stock turn signal fixtures and cut the wires in a convenient and inconspicuous splice location. STEP 2**Place the split lock and flat washers on to the hollow bolts as shown in PIC. 1. Run the power leads through the hollow bolts and assemble the Silver Bullets to their mounts. See PIC. 2. STEP 3*Install the new Silver Bullet assemblies to the Mount Bar on the motorcycle. The stock 10-24 x 1/2″ socket head screws are to be re-used. PROCEDURE fOR AMBER DUAL CIRCUIT (fRONT WIRING) LED SILVER BULLET WIRE COLOR CODING IS AS fOLLOWS: Black — Ground Blue — Running Lights (power) Violet — Turn Signal (power) STEP 1 Turn key on. Test OEM stock front turn signal wiring with test light. STEP 2 Locate and mark the running light (power) wire. STEP 3 Individually activate the turn signals and mark the side-appropriate wires. STEP 4 Use the color code above to solder/connect the corresponding Silver Bullet wires to your Join like colored wires on the Silver Bullets and the bike’s turn signal harnesses. Insulate your connections. Route the wires safely out of harms way and tie the wires in place with nylon cable ties. 1995-EARLIER MODELS With a test light, probe the two black wires leading to each of the stock front turn signals. On each side, the wire that has power only when the turn signal button is depressed is the turn signal positive wire. The wire that is “hot” constantly when the key is on is the running light wire. Connect the violet wire from the Silver Bullet to the bikes turn signal wire, and the blue Silver Bullet wire to the bikes running light wire. Connect the black wire from the Silver Bullet to a known good chassis ground (bare metal). Insulate your connections. Route the wires neatly out of harms way and secure them with nylon cable ties. When replacing stock incandescent turn signals with LED lights, it may be necessary to add a load equalizer to make the turn signals flash properly. NOTE: When using Amber Dual Circuit Silver Bullets in rear applications, blue running lights (power) wire will not be used. To avoid corrosion, tape off bare wire. Test the lights for run and flash functions. If they light, but do not flash in the turn mode, add the load equalizer. The load equalizer has one black and two violet wires. The violet wires are not side specific. NOTE: LED Turn signals require the use of one Load Equalizer PER PAIR OF LED TURN SIGNALS to achieve the proper flash function. It is perfectly normal for the equalizer to get warm (about 140 degrees) during turn signal operation.

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2005 TRIUMPH SPEED TRIPLE AND SPRINT ST INTEGRATED TAIL KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 30-10-2010

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1 ) PLACE THE TAIL LIGHT ASSEMBLY ON A SOFT SURFACE TO AVOID SCRATCHING OR DAMAGING THE LENS DURING THE CUTTING OPERATION. 2 ) POSITION YOUR CUTTING WHEEL AS SHOWN IN THE PICTURE TO THE LEFT WHERE THE CLEAR PART OF THE LENS MEETS THE BLACK PART. 3 ) PROCEED TO CUT INTO THE CLEAR LENS APPROXIMATELY HALF OF THE THICKNESS, ALL THE WAY AROUND THE PERIMETER OF THE LENS – BE SURE NOT TO CUT ALL THE WAY THROUGH BECAUSE IT WILL NOT GLUE BACK TOGETHER PROPERLY. SEE “TIPS FOR CUTTING YOUR LENS” BEFORE BEGINNING. TIPS FOR CUTTING YOUR LENS A) KEEP THE CUTTING WHEEL MOVING AND APPLY LIGHT PRESSURE. SITTING IN ONE SPOT WILL JUST MELT THE PLASTIC. WHEN YOU MAKE YOUR WAY AROUND THE ENTIRE PERIMETER, CLEAN ALL THE BURRED PLASTIC FROM AROUND THE EDGES AND FROM INSIDE THE GROOVE YOU’VE MADE. OPENING THE LENS 4 ) PLACE THE TIP OF A FLAT HEAD SCREWDRIVER IN THE GROOVE YOU HAVE CREATED. 5 ) GENTLY TWIST THE SCREWDRIVER TO CRACK THE GLUE ALONG THE GROOVE. NOTE: AS SOON AS YOU HEAR THE SOUND OF THE GLUE GIVING (A CRACK), MOVE THE SCREWDRIVER SLIGHTLY AND ADVANCE THE CRACK. SLOW AND STEADY IS THE NAME OF THE GAME HERE. IF YOU FIND A HARD SPOT, WEAKEN IT WITH THE CUTTING WHEEL AS NECESSARY. THE HARD PART IS OVER! YOU CAN RELAX NOW!
2 ©2005 Custom LED LLC. All Rights Reserved. 6 ) REMOVE THE SCREWS HOLDING THE STOCK LED BOARD TO THE HOUSING (YOU WILL BE REUSING THE SCREWS SO PUT THEM TO THE SIDE). 7 ) REMOVE THE STOCK LED ASSEMBLY FROM THE LENS HOUSING AND TURN IT FACE DOWN TO EXPOSE THE WIRING BEHIND. 8 ) SNIP OFF THE WIRES THAT CONNECT TO THE LED CIRCUIT BOARD AS CLOSE TO THE CIRCUIT BOARD AS POSSIBLE. 9 ) PLACE THE STOCK LED CIRCUIT BOARD OUT OF THE WAY. YOU WILL NO LONGER NEED THIS PART, DISPOSE OF IT AS YOU WISH. 10 ) DRILL A HOLE IN THE BACK SIDE OF THE ENCLOSURE IN THE LOCATION SHOWN IN FIGURE 10. THIS HOLE WILL BE USED TO ROUTE THE TWO BLINKER WIRES (RED AND WHITE) OUT OF THE ENCLOSURE. CHOOSE A BIT SIZE THAT IS ONLY AS LARGE AS NECESSARY TO FIT THE TWO WIRES THROUGH THE HOLE. WIRING UP YOUR CUSTOM LED BOARD PLACE YOUR CUSTOM LED INTEGRATED TAIL NEXT TO THE HOUSING, AND MATCH THE WIRE COLORS AS FOLLOWS: TRY TO HANDLE THE CIRCUIT BOARD AS LITTLE AS POSSIBLE AS FINGERPRINTS AND DIRT WILL HINDER THE PERFORMANCE. • • • • BLACK ON HARNESS TO 6″ BLACK ON CUSTOM LED BOARD • • • • GREEN ON HARNESS TO 6″ GREEN ON CUSTOM LED BOARD • • • • YELLOW ON HARNESS TO 6″ YELLOW ON CUSTOM LED BOARD USE THE THREE (3 OF 5) SUPPLIED ORANGE SPLICE CONNECTORS. PUSH THE TWO WIRES TO BE SPLICED TOGETHER INTO THE OPEN END. BE SURE TO PUSH THE WIRES ALL THE WAY IN (UNTIL YOU CAN SEE THEY HAVE REACHED THE OTHER SIDE). NOTE: THE SPLICE IS MORE RELIABLE IF THE WIRE IS NOT STRIPPED. BE SURE TO SNIP OFF THE BARE ENDS OF THE WIRES ON THE CUSTOM LED TAIL TO ENSURE THAT THERE IS INSULATION WHERE THE SPLICE WILL OCCUR. THE SUPPLIED SPLICE CONNECTORS AUTOMATICALLY DISPLACE THE INSULATION AS NECESSARY. ONCE YOU DOUBLE CHECK YOUR COLOR MATCHING AND ARE ABSOLUTELY SURE THAT THE WIRES ARE FULLY INSERTED INTO THE SPLICE CONNECTORS DO THE FOLLOWING: 11 ) SQUEEZE THE SPLICE CONNECTORS FIRMLY WITH PLIERS. VISUALLY INSPECT YOUR CONNECTIONS TO SEE THAT THEY HAVE BEEN SPLICED PROPERLY INSIDE. 12 ) RUN THE RED AND WHITE WIRES THROUGH THE HOLE YOU OPENED UP IN STEP 10. 13 ) POSITION YOUR CUSTOM LED BOARD IN PLACE AS SHOWN AND FASTEN THE BOARD USING THE SCREWS REMOVED FROM THE STOCK BOARD.

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Street Magic Magical Wizards LED Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Always wear appropriate safety gear including safety glasses when soldering or performing any electrical work. It is highly recommended that safety glasses be worn throughout this installation process. Temperature of bike must be at least 60 degrees F. for tape to properly cure. Read all directions before starting project. 2. Turn fuel supply valve to off position before starting. Be sure bike is on level surface and secure and cool. 3. Important: Disconnect negative battery cable from battery; refer to owner’s manual. Failure do to so may result in electrical shock, injury, or fire. Secure negative battery cable away from positive side of battery and all other positive voltage sources on bike. 4. Select hidden locations to mount LED Accent Lights to provide best coverage. 5. Remove fuse from fuse holder. 6. Clean mounting locations on both motorcycle and accent lights with 3M promoter, promoter sponge will dry up quickly, place sponge in sealed plastic bag when not in use. Do not touch 3M promoter with bare fingers. 7. Place piece of double sided tape on accent light if needed, lights come pre-taped on back surface. Trim excess off sides with razor blade. Carefully remove backing from double sided tape and place light on selected mounting location. Press firmly and hold for 10 seconds. Repeat for all lights to be mounted on bike. 8. Route wires from accent lights back to central points near battery compartment under seat. Route wires such that they not interfere with normal operation of bike. Cut off any excess wires, strip back insulation as required. 9. Select several locations to secure wires to frame. Secure wires using tie wraps provided. 10. Join all black wires from LEDs into one Cage Clamp Connector #1. Join all Red wires from LEDs into Cage Clamp Con- nector #2, Join all Blue wires from LEDs into Cage Clamp Connector #3, Join all Green wires from LEDs into Cage Clamp Connector #4. 11. Connect Orange wire from the remote control wire harness to the Red Cage Clamp Connector, connect Blue wire from remote control wire harness to Blue Cage Clamp Connector, connect Green wire from remote control wire harness to Green Cage Clamp Connector. Connect White wire from remote control wire harness to Black Cage Clamp Connector. 12. Crimp spade connector on ends of remaining Red and Black wires from Remote Wiring Harness. Heat spade connector with heat gun so that it shrinks around wire. 13. Connect Red Wire to Positive (+) side of battery, and Black Wire to (-) Side of battery. Take necessary precautions when making connection and refer to bike’s owner’s manual. DO NOT allow any tools to touch both positive (+) side of battery and any metal surface on bike as it will cause a short which could result in serious injury and damage to the battery or other electrical circuits.

2010 Harley-Davidson New Model and Technical Information

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 15-12-2010

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Meet MY2010 EPA Emissions regulations for all Harley- Davidson®vehicles sold in 50 state and Canadian markets •Reduce oxygen intrusion into the exhaust system -Promotes catalyst health and efficiency New rib/curl pipe end feature offers positive muffler stop and improved pipe consistency. 2010 Dyna®Models Crossover joints updated with new clamp and gasket. Updated joint New clamp (Comes w/gasket) New Gasket Torque 15-19 ft-lbs (20.3-25.8 Nm) 2010 Dyna®Models New 2010 FXDWG Wide Glide® New 2010 FXDWG Wide Glide® New rear fender New Floating Front Brake Rotors* New fuel tank with wider tunnel* *All Dyna®Models Current FXDB solo seat with new cover New sissybar New pillion Current FXDWG front forks with 1″shorter overall length Current FXDWG front wheel (steel) (21×2.15) black rim with chrome spokes & machined hub; Front tire pattern -GT402 FXDWG front fender 34 degree frame with tank mount boss raised by ¾” New handlebar with FXDF risers/caps *Michelin®tires on all but FXDF and FXDWG FXDB rear wheel (black rim with chrome spokes) (17×4.5) (180- 60×17), rear tire pattern -GT502 (Screamin’Eagle®) FXDF exhaust pipes & mufflers with chrome exhaust shields Gloss black rear forging covers Current FXDB rear shocks with top covers Current FXDC battery cover with chrome Wide Glide®trim Forward foot controls New 2010 FXDWG Wide Glide® Domestic tail lights Canada & all International tail lights Taillight (HDI/Canada) Side mount license plate Domestic only •Internally wired handlebar •34 degree frame with tank mount boss raised by ¾”& rear forgings moved out 2mm each side from FXDF •Flame tank replacement part is VIN restricted •Two new rear fenders (Domestic & HDI/Canada)

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LED SHOW LIGHTING INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIOINS

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 27-12-2010

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1. The kit is supplied with 4 “cluster” lights that project a round flood lighting pattern and 4 “array” lights that have a narrow fan type pattern. Determine where you would like to mount the supplied lights, switch and wiring connections. You may want to hook up one of the lights with some long jumper wires connected to the battery and hold it in various places to see what will show off your bike best. The idea is to see the light reflected off your bike and not see the light fixture. 2. Mount the lights and switch using the supplied primer and 2-sided adhesive pad. Apply the primer to the backside of the lights and switch; let it dry for 5 minutes. Remove the protector from one side of the adhesive pad and apply. Apply the primer on the motorcycle where the lights and switch will be mounted and let it dry for 5 minutes. Remove the protector from the adhesive pad and mount the lights and switch. 3. Refer to the provided wiring diagram. The wiring is color-coded and connects in parallel. All of the black wires connect together through the BLACK wire of the 2 conductor black jacketed wire (Ground Wires). All of the colored wires connect together through the RED wire of the 2 conductor black jacketed wire (Power Wires). Connections may be soldered, crimped with solderless connectors, or twisted together. 4. Measure and cut the supplied 2-conductor black-jacketed wire to the lengths that are needed to connect the lights and switch. When routing the wire from any lights that you have mounted to the front make sure you have provided enough slack at the steering head to be able to turn the front wheel full left and full right without damaging the lights or wires. Also be sure the wire is at least æ” from any exhaust pipe. 5. Join each connection and cover with the supplied heat shrink tubing. NOTE; All wire connections must be insulated. Cut a piece of the provided heat shrink tubing long enough to cover the connection completely. 6. Connect one wire from the switch to the RED wire of the lights with one of the supplied blue butt connectors. Connect the second wire from the switch to one wire from the fuse holder with the other blue butt connector. Connect the second wire from the fuse holder to the positive (+) battery terminal using one of the supplied fork connectors. 7. Connect the BLACK wire of the lights using the other fork connector to a ground connection. (The negative (-) battery terminal or motorcycle frame.) 8. Secure all loose wires by using the supplied cable ties. Check the front wheel again to be sure there is enough wire slack for turning.

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Motorcycle LED lights RENEGADE LIGHTS Installation Guide

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Make sure your bike is cool and parked on a flat secure surface! 2. Find your battery (you may have to remove your seat or side covers in order to get to your battery) Disconnect the NEGATIVE ( -) cable. Negative battery cable must be disconnected from the battery in order to avoid safety hazards! Be sure as you disconnect the Negative cable that it does not touch or make contact with your Positive terminal 3. Your new motorcycle LED lights are polarity sensitive–meaning that the RED wires on the LEDs must be hooked to the Positive (+) terminal and the BLACK wires must be hooked to the Ground (-) . All Red Wires must go to a common power wire and ALL Black Wires must go to a common ground. You cannot run the LED motorcycle lights in a series nor can you run the wires from one motorcycle LED light to another in a loop type installation. ( All of the wires on the motorcycle LED lights which you install will end up together in one place at your battery.) 4. Pick a hidden flat surface around the front of your seat area to mount the switch. ( You must be able to reach the switch when the seat and/or side covers are back on your bike.) You will install your switch later using the double-sided tape provided to you. 5. Next, begin choosing the locations where you would like to mount your motorcycle LED lights. Choose areas which will give you the most light coverage overall, but which will allow the motorcycle LED lights itself to be hidden from easy view when you are standing back and looking at the bike. 6. Clean each area where you choose to place a motorcycle LED light with the alcohol based cleaner making sure all dirt and/or oil is removed from that area

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