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BMW K 1300 S, K 1300 R and K 1300 GT SPECIFICATION

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 17-11-2010

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The K 1300 S with 175 hp, the K 1300 R with 173 hp and the K 1300 GT with 160 hp. The new K bikes feature updated transmission and clutch assembly, plus smoother engine performance and new switchgear. Von Kuenheim continues: “By raising capacity to 1300 cc, our engineers have not only increased output but also torque on all three models. At the same time the driveline was intensively revised from air/fuel mixture formation right through to the exhaust system. In this way we have been able to optimize partial load behavior as well as throttle response. Now the clutch can be operated with even less effort and with greater refinement. Shifting has been improved tangibly due to constructional changes to the gearbox and drive.” BMW is introducing new options for the 2009 as well. The popular Electronic Suspension Adjustment that first appeared on the 2005 K 1200 S has now been updated with even more on-the-fly adjustability and it’s called ESA II. Also new is the quick-shifter option, racing-style gear shift assistant, borrowed from BMW’s race-ready HP2 Sport. Automatic Stability Control (ASC) is also offered as an option on the new K bikes. “Both the K 1300 S and also the R will also have the shift assistant – familiar from the HP2 Sport – available as an option for the first time,” von Kuenheim emphasized. “We have also advanced the chassis. The new lower longitudinal strut is now made of aluminum and is thus considerably lighter. This makes the front wheel guidance response even more sensitive. The result of this comprehensive development work is superior handling, improved rideability and lower fuel consumption. The electronically adjustable suspension – called ESA in short – was launched as a world first on the K 1200 S. Now we are presenting the new, well-proven ESA II as an option for the K Series. Apart from the suspension and damping this unique system also allows the spring rate to be adjusted at the press of a button. The K Series model revision also heralds a new and innovative generation of switches and controls.

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ULTIMA IGNITION MODULE AND KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL FOR HARLEY DAVIDSON

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 03-03-2011

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Disconnect battery. 2. Mark location of timing plate in relation to inside of cam cover. This will give a starting point for timing on new module. Remove old ignition if applicable (see manual) Clymer, Haynes. 3. If your bike is not equipped with timing rotor M/W# 53-528 OEM#32402-83 you must buy one (included in kit). Also a single fire coil is needed (included in kit) M/W# 53-632. Any single fire coil rated 2-4 ohms can be used. NO SOLID CORE PLUG WIRES (copper, silver) they will damage the unit. 4. Install module: helpful hints, early model nose cones, i.e. Shovel Heads, the hole for the wire may need to be drilled out. Align with previously scripted mark for timing. Use lockwashers for stand offs for correct clearance of cover plate. Run wire loom. 5. Connect wires, see wiring diagram. Tape unused wires, green or brown. 12v to tach (brown) will damage module. Set timing. 1996 and later should not be timed 20˚ BTDC as the OEM module, but at 35˚ BTDC. Use this mark when using timing light. If VOESswitch is not used you must ground VOES wire (green) while timing. Refer to manual for correct identification of timing marks. At start up and timing, set spark advance in middle position. FUNCTION SWITCHES LED timing indicator light: When out, shows TDC. When ignition is on, LED will light up. When engine is cranking LED will blink. Electric Start/Kickstart: Set accordingly. VOES/Race mode: VOES switch lets the motor run smoother and improves gas mileage. If you don’t use it or add one tape up green wire and switch to race. VOES switch to use, M/W# 53-652. Spark advance: High compression motors should use race mode and 93 octane or better gas. Changing from VOES to race changes advance curves. Agood rule of thumb is if the engine knocks when throttle is applied in high gear, turn back spark advance curve until it stops engine knock. RPMlimiter: Set at desired RPM to cut engine power. Rear Cylinder: This is for racing and should be set at a dyno. +/-5˚. Rear cylinder timing is achieved through this adjuster. Most should dial to middle setting and leave alone. After all switches are set, install cover with supplied gasket and feel the increased performance of a solid state single fire ignition. Again, we remind you, if you don’t feel confident about installing this unit, let a qualified mechanic do it and be assured you are getting the best performance and gas mileage possible.

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Daytona 675 Motorcycle Race Kit Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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Remove the existing cylinder head gasket in line with the procedures detailed in the Daytona 675 service manual. 2. Fit the chosen race kit cylinder head gasket following the procedures detailed in the Daytona 675 service manual. Caution The use of the following race kit cylinder head gaskets will require changes to the fuelling settings. To alter fuelling settings a third party programmable control unit will be required. Item Description Qty 1 Head gasket (t = 0.65mm) 1 1 Head gasket (t = 0.60mm) 1 1 * Page 7 of 29 © Triumph Designs Ltd 2007. Cams, Valve Spring & Sprocket Kits Parts Supplied Camshaft Inlet Kit – A9618055 Camshaft Exhaust Kit – A9618056 Valve Spring Kit – A9618058 Camshaft Sprocket Kit – A9618057 Warning The race kit must be fitted as a complete set. If it is not fitted as a complete set a failure may result which could cause loss of motorcycle control and an accident. Caution The use of the Camshaft, Valve spring & Sprocket race kits detailed below will require changes to the fuelling settings. To alter fuelling settings a third party programmable control unit will be required. 5 5 4 1 3 2 4 3 Item Description Qty 1 Cam assy, inlet, race 1 Item Description Qty 2 Cam assy, exhaust, race 1 Item Description Qty 3 Valve spring, 14.4id, race12 Item Description Qty 4 Sprocket, camshaft, 34T 2 5 Socket head cap screw, Encapsulated, M6x10 4
Page 8 of 29 © Triumph Designs Ltd 2007. NOTE •The standard inlet cam is 9.25mm max lift and 258.50o duration. The race kit inlet cam is 9.25mm max lift and 268.74o duration. •The standard exhaust cam is 8.5mm max lift and 246o duration. The race kit exhaust cam is 8.5mm max lift and 262.21o duration. •The race kit valve spring must be used in conjunction with the standard spring platforms and retainers. The fitted length of the race springs is the same as the standard spring. 1. The race kit valve springs should be assembled in the same manner as the standard valve springs. Follow the procedure detailed in section 3 of the Daytona 675 service manual. Ensure the springs are installed with the close wound, colour coded end of the springs facing downwards, towards the piston. 2. The race kit camshafts should be assembled in the same manner as the standard camshafts. Follow the procedure detailed in section 3 of the Daytona 675 service manual. 3. The race kit cam sprockets should be mounted and secured to the camshafts using the slotted holes in the sprocket. The slotted holes allow adjustment of the valve timing. The circular holes in the sprockets are for Triumph service tool T3880102 and should not be used to mount the sprockets to the camshafts. NOTE •No timing marks are included on the race sprockets. Race engines will typically have different depths skimmed off the cylinder head and, therefore require specific individual timing. 4. The camshafts should be timed using cam degreeing equipment which typically consists of a degree wheel, pointer, dial indicator and piston stop. Optimum cam timing will depend on the exact specification of the engine, but a recommended starting point is 104o IMOP (Inlet Maximum Opening Point) and 104o EMOP (Exhaust Maximum Opening Point). 5. Always check the inlet and exhaust piston to valve clearance for the timing selected to use, before running the engine. You must ensure both clearances are adequate. As a guide, the standard nominal piston to valve clearance is 1.3mm inlet & 1.5mm exhaust

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Harley-Davidson Electronic Ignition Module Installation instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 23-04-2012

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Step 1: Switch main dashboard switch to “off” position (Ignition& light switch) Step 2: Disconnect negative (ground) cable from the Battery Step 3: Remove the Condenser and Breaker points from the circuit breaker timing base. Step 4: Disconnect advance/ retard cable from timing base Step 5: Remove timing base from timer shaft and housing (see your manual for instructions) Step 6: Remove circuit breaker wire stud or circuit breaker to coil wire assembly from timing base Step 7: Remove circuit breaker wire from Ignition coil, and mark terminal on coil with piece of tape. Step 8: Install the Electronic Ignition Module on the timing base. Mount this short black wire to one on the timer base screws by keeping some slack in this wire so the timing base can turn free. Solder the flag terminal to this short black wire and mount it under the timer to motor bolt. This way of mounting provides a much better grounding. Do NOT use the screws (number 1 or 2 screws from picture below) from the timing base!!!! Step 9: Now three wires pass this hole via the rubber grommet. Figure 1 Figure 2 Step 10: Reinstall the timer base on the timer shaft housing, and keep some slack in the wires before protruding the hole in the timer shaft housing, and secure with ground spring and cover retainer. Reconnect the advance/retard cable to the timer base. Step 11: Route the two long wires to the ignition coil. Check in the HD service manual for a proper route to the ignition coil. (Keep away from hot surfaces like exhaust systems). Cut the wires to the exact length necessary for mounting. Step 12: Determine the exact length of the wire loom. Keep in mind that one end of the loom enters the timer shaft housing by 1cm. Cut the loom to the proper length. Step 13: Insert both wires in the loom. Strip both wire ends and solder the two flag terminals on the wires. Step 14: Connect the red wire to the ignition coil, on the terminal where the 6 or 12 volt is supplied to. This terminal has at minimum one wire connected which runs to the main switch. Step 15: Connect the black wire to the ignition coil on the terminal which is empty, and has piece of tape on it. (Old place where the circuit breaker wire was connected to) Step 16: Install the trigger rotor on the timer shaft cam, and tighten the hex screw by using the hex key tool. Do not over tighten the screw! Step 17: Check for clearance between trigger rotor and Electronic Ignition Module. Appropriate clearance is between 0,5mm and 1,5mm . Minor adjustments can be made by unlocking the two screws and slightly shift/move the Electronic Ignition Module. Check if the rotor moves free. Timing instructions: Remove the spark plugs from the engine, but keep them connected to the spark coil cables and engine ground. This enables normal operation of the spark, and prevents unwanted engine firing on compression stroke. See service manual or handbook for timing instructions of your model Step 18: Reconnect the negative (ground) cable to the battery. Step 19: Switch main power to “on” position. The red light in the Electronic Ignition Module might already light up. If not, turn the kick starter slowly. The red light is on while charging (closed points)the Ignition coil, facing solid metal of the trigger rotor. The light goes off (open points) when the end of the solid surface of the trigger rotor passes the centre of the Electronic Ignition Module. At that point a spark is generated by the coil

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YAMAHA XS650H/ SH Supplementary Service Manual

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 21-11-2010

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Ignition timing check 1. Ignition timing is checked with a timing light by observing the position of the rotor pointer and the marks stamped on the timing plate. The timing plate is marked as follows. “ll” Firing range for No. 1 (L.H.) “T” Top Dead Center for No. 1, fL.H.1 cylinder 2. Connect the timing light to the left cylinder spark plug lead wire. 3. Start the engine and keep the engine speed as specified. Use a tachometer to check the engine speed. B. PICK-UP COIL ASSEMBLY The method of mounting the pick-up coil assembly is changed for easier service work. Thus, the followings “Pick-up coil assembly removal” and “Pick-up coil assembly reinstallation” should be changed. Pick-up coil assembly removal Remove the pick-up coil securing screws and remove the pick-up coil assembly. Pick-up coil assembly reinstallation Install the pick-up coil assembly on to the stator assembly. _ L 4. Specified engine speed: 1,200 r/min The rotor pointer should be within the limits of ” fl ” on the timing plate. If it exceeds the limits or does not steady, check the timing plate for tight- ness and/or ignition system for damage. NOTE: Ignition timing is not adjustable. C. FUEL LEVEL The carburetor is furnished with a drain screw to provide easy access to service work. Thus, the following “Fuel level measurement” should be added. Fuel level measurement NOTE: Before checking the fuel level, note the follow- ing: 1. Place the motorcycle on a level surface. 2. Adjust the motorcycle position by placing a suitable stand or a garage jack under the engine so that the carburetor is positioned vertically. 1. 2. Connect the level gauge (special tool) or a vinyl pipe of 6 mm (0.24 in) in inside diameter to the float bowl nozzle left or right side carburetor. Set the gauge as shown and loosen the drain screw 3. Start the engine and stop it after a few minutes of run. This procedure is neces- sary to obtain the correct fuel level. NOTE: Make sure the fuel petcock is “ON” or “RES” oosition. 4. Note the fuel level and bring the gauge to the other end of the carburetor line and repeat step 3 above. Note the fuel level again and compare it with the previous gauge reading. They should be equal. If not, place a suitable size of wooden piece or the. alike under the center stand and adjust. 5. Check the fuel level one by one. The level should be in the specified range.

CL-1000 CONDOR CYCLE LOADER USER INSTRUCTION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 25-11-2010

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Confirm that the cradle is set in the optimized position setting (See RECOMMENDED CRADLE SETTINGS) for the entering tire and wheel. Adjustment of cradle is crucial for optimum retention. Optimum retention is achieved by trying different settings. ( REFER TO CAUTION PARAGRAPH BELOW ): If the optimum vertical support is achieved, the motorcycle will hold itself upright. If optimum retention is not achieved try different cradle settings. ( REFER TO CAUTION PARAGRAPH BELOW ). Once cradle is positioned, tighten the brakes using the eye bolts and place the Cycle Loader in front of the motorcycle. Push or drive the motorcycle, centered into unit, until the cradle of the Cycle Loader has fully engaged the wheel. Once the wheel is cradled, proceed to push further into the Cycle Loader until the wheel has engaged the front stop. If the optimum vertical support is achieved, the motorcycle will hold itself upright. As an extra precaution, an optional Velcro strap may be used to strap the cradled wheel to the front stop (Optional Velcro strap purchased separately). Always strap Velcro through the wheel and around the front stop below the upper front stop flange. Loosen the brakes and use two (2) tie-down straps to secure the motorcycle to the two front eyebolts of the Cycle Loader. Hook wench to Ω” ‘U’ hook in front of Cycle Loader. Use the wench to pull the Cycle Loader with motorcycle up the flat bed. Once the motorcycle is all the way on the flat bed, the bike should be secured to the flat bed itself. For more information on use, refer to www.condor- lift.com. RECOMMEDED CRADLE SETTINGS: The Condor® Cycle Loader is designed so that for every tire/wheel size within the ranges specified a minimum of 2 cradle settings is suitable. **The optimum cradle setting for a specific tire would be, the setting that allows the cradle to tilt flush with the unit/ or º” below the opening in the main unit where the cradle sits, without touching.** The 2nd optimum setting would be the setting forward from the optimum setting away from the entry direction. If less retention is desired at any time due to too much retention or sticking, the cradle may be moved away from the entry direction one notch. RACING APPLICATIONS: For bikes with GP or low durometer front tires compounds, use the 5th cradle setting from the entry directions. CAUTION: Always make sure that all fasteners are tight and all pins are in place prior to use. Understand the limitations of this product and do not exceed these limitations. Always make sure that the unit’s cradle settings are optimum for the tire size of the motorcycle before use. For bikes with very low fenders and or cowlings, a custom cradle may be purchased fitted to specific tire sizes, so as not to make contact. For standard sport bike front wheel combinations, the 1, 2, 3, front settings may be suitable. If instructions are not clear, additional information is available at www.condor-lift. com or call 1-800-461-1344. Technical Components Development & Design is not responsible for any damage incurred by exceeding this product’s limitations in structure and/or functionality.

2003 – 2007 4Runner OIL LEAK FROM FRONT TIMING COVER

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 31-10-2011

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evidence of a small oil leak located where the Bank 1 cylinder head, engine block, and timing cover meet. Use the following repair procedure to address this condition. 2003 – 2007 model year 4Runner vehicles equipped with the 1GR-FE engine and produced BEFORE the Production Change Effective VINs shown below. MODEL PLANT DRIVETRAIN PRODUCTION CHANGE EFFECTIVE VIN 2WD JTEZU17R#68064608 Hino 2WD JTEZU14R#78076191 4Runner Hino 4WD JTEBU14R#78078323 4Runner 4WD JTEBU14R#78090468 Tahara 2WD JTEZU14R#70091230 Tahara 4WD JTEBU14R#70117349 OP CODE DESCRIPTION TIME OFP T1 T2 EG7036 Reseal FrontTiming Cover with FIPG 2WD7.6 113100P0306548 EG7036 Reseal Front Timing Cover with FIPG 4WD8.5 11310-0P030 65 48 Applicable Warranty*: This repair is covered under the Toyota Powertrain Warranty. This warranty is in effect for 60 months or 60,000 miles, whichever occurs first, from the vehicle’s in-service date. *Warranty application is limited to correction of a problem based upon a customer’s specific complaint

2003 Ducati ST4s Timing Belt Adjustment

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Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 31-10-2010

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This instruction on cam belt adjustment starts after you remove the fairing pieces. Plan on an hour to remove these. Since you are performing your own service, buying Ducati belts may not be that expensive. There may be another belt source, but I have not confirmed this for the 996 engine of the 02-03 ST4s. Fig 1 – ST4s ready for belt adj./ repl. Fig 2 – Crank tool installed. See dwg. 1) Ensure maximum of ½ tank of gas. Fuel will leak into the charcoal canister, then onto the floor if the tank is over half full and the tank is tilted up on its hinge. So put the tank up on its hinge. 2) Remove spark plugs. Cover sparkplug wells with boots or rags. This is a great time to toss out those Champions for a set of NGK DCPR8E’s. 3) Remove the front shield from the horizontal cylinder head. 4) Remove crankshaft cover on Riders LH side and insert crank tool. A crank tool can be made by following the drawing at the end of this document. See Fig 2 above. The flat head screws used are kind of soft so beware on their removal. 5) Remove oil pressure sending unit cable and remove oil sending unit. No oil should pour out. 6) Remove battery and remove bolts fastening battery box to engine/frame. You can let the battery box dangle or partially support it via a bungee cord. Be careful of the cable on the ground of the ECU. By dangling the battery box excess stress could be placed on this cables connector and you don’t want to troubleshoot an intermittent electrical issue. 7) Remove cam belt covers. The two covers over the cams are real easy. The center piece is removed by pulling it down. You may have to move some hoses and cables out Timing belt adj. doc 1
of the way because it is a tight fit. Removing the oil pressure sending unit gave clearance for the removal. Fig 1 shows bike ready to be worked on. On the Rider’s LH is a window on the case cover. Using a flashlight to illuminate the area, marks can be rotated into view using the engine turning tool. There are two marks denoting the TDC of each of the cylinders. When a mark in the window aligns with the pointer, look at the crank driving pulley on the Rider’s RH of the engine. If the driving pulley’s mark is aligned with the pointer on the engine case, you are at TDC horizontal cylinder. If the pulley mark and the pointer on the engine do not align, rotate the engine until the mark in the window on the Rider’s LH side case cover aligns as well as the pulley’s mark and the engine’s pointer. Fig 3 shows the engine pulley and pointer. You can check that the horizontal piston is at TDC by inserting a welding rod into the spark plug well and touch the top of the piston with it to sense its position. Timing marks on cam pulleys are clearly stamped on all four pulleys. When the crank driving pulley aligns with its corresponding pointer on the engine case and the marks on the pulleys align with their corresponding marks on both cylinders, you are in position for belt adjustment and replacement

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4-STROKE TRIUMPH SINGLE CYLINDER MOTORCYCLES ELECTRONIC IGNITION SYSTEM INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 27-10-2010

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1. Remove the petrol tank (and seat if necessary) to gain access to the ignition coil, condensor and wiring. 2. For safety, disconnect the battery, if fitted (preferably both terminals). 3. Remove the spark plug. 4. Remove the alternator rotor cover (if fitted). 5. Loosen the auto-advance centre bolt. Rotate the engine to the correct full advance timing position for your machine (see table on page 6), using one of these methods: • Models from 1967 on: use the marks provided for strobe timing on the rotor & chaincase (inside the rotor cover). Unless these marks are known to be accurate it is recommended that they are checked for correct alignment. These marks should line up at the full advance position, check using one of the methods below and, if necessary, re-mark the rotor. • Models from 1969 on: use the timing plug on the left-hand crankcase • Use a degree disc on the crankshaft / camshaft (see table on page 6) • Use a dial guage down the spark plug hole (see table on page 6) 5. Remove kickstart, gear lever and outer timing cover. 6. Remove the contact-breaker plate and lead from the outer timing cover. 7. Taking the ignition trigger assembly, insert a small cable tie into the two holes in front of the connector block on the ignition trigger. This will be used later to secure the two wires to the plate. 8. Fit the ignition trigger plate with the adjustable slots at approx. 6 & 12 o’clock, using the original pillar fixings & washers, positioned in the centre of the slots (to allow for adjustment in either direction). Handle the trigger with care. • RED EARTHING WIRE • CRIMP CONNECTORS & INSULATORS • LARGE & SMALL CABLE TIES • CABLE TIE ADHESIVE MOUNTING BASE 3
9. Remove the centre bolt securing the auto-advance unit. Remove the complete auto-advance unit with an extractor bolt or by tapping it gently sideways. 10. Fit the magnetic rotor in place of the auto-advance unit, with the magnets/ red marks positioned at approx. 3 & 9 o’clock. The magnetic rotor has a male taper which fits into the taper in the end of the camshaft. There is no keyway, allowing it to be fitted in any desired position. 11. Using the ¼” washer and the appropriate bolt (UNF or BSF), pass the bolt through the centre of the magnetic rotor and into the thread in the camshaft. Finger tighten only at this stage. The magnetic rotor centre thread (metric M8) is provided for attaching a puller, if the rotor should need to be removed for engine servicing, etc. 12. Replace the outer timing cover, gear lever & kickstart. 13. Check that the engine is still at the correct full advance position, then adjust the magnetic rotor position so that one of the red marks is centrally behind the static timing hole at 9 o’clock (see fig. 4, page 7). If your machine’s camshaft rotates clockwise, refer to fig. 3. Gently tap the rotor into the taper & tighten the centre bolt, using a 3/16″ allen key. WIRING: 14. All connections must be of the highest quality, use crimped or soldered connections; twisted wires will not give a satisfactory operation. Avoid coiling up surplus lead.

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Honda VTX 1300 Trike Conversion Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 27-10-2010

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Removal of Original Parts Secure and raise the motorcycle 9 to 10 inches using a quality motorcycle lift. Remove the following from the vehicle. See OEM manual for detailed instructions. Items to be retained for reinstallation after modification are noted. · Rider’s Seat (to be re-installed without modification) · Passenger Seat (to be reinstalled without modification) NOTE: OEM front and rear seat mounting bolts and brackets to be retained and reused. · Left and right passenger foot rests. (to be re-installed later). · Mufflers (to be re-installed and relocated with minor modification) · Rear Fender (complete w/ sub frame and all attaching parts) · Swing Arm, Drive Shaft and Rear Wheel (complete w/ all attaching parts) · Rear brake Line to hard line in front of the Swing Arm. Core Return There are NO core return parts for this model. Honda VTX 1300 TRIKE CONVERSION CHAMPION TRIKES Installation Manual Page 7 of 16 Revision 2 3 Installation of Champion Trike Conversion Kit 3.1 Modify Frame and Passenger Footrests. a. Cut and remove passenger foot rest mount from OEM frame on both sides (left hand side picture shown) . Figure 1 b. Clean cut frame and paint black. c. Remove and secure Charcoal Canister. d. Cut and remove charcoal canister frame bracket. Figure 2 e. Clean cut frame and paint black

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