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Fairing bodywork in glass-reinforced plastic Cruciata Racing

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 27-10-2010

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The fairing bodywork that they have I use in contest is made in sturdy and flexible glass-reinforced plastic. The fairing bodywork in glass-reinforced plastic they succeed to replace the fairing bodywork originates them nearly perfectly, thanks to the predisposition holes. The greater part of the fairing bodywork in glass- reinforced plastic in production has the points of attachment with the moto reinforces to you in carbon on every attack with the chassis of the moto. Between the types of fairing bodywork and as point of reference between the fairing bodywork is as an example fairing bodywork it Cruciata Racing, worked always handicraft with passion for it gets passionate to it to you, which has enjoyed in particular way of the progresses and the evolution of the materials and the members. fairing bodywork the Cruciata Racing is constructed entire in woven of glass with reinforces in carbon in correspondence of the attacks to the motor and between the parts in glass-reinforced plastic. In the line racing standards are included plexiglass of height (to pierce), neoprene sponge cm 1,5 (supplied already sagomata). It fairing bodywork Cruciata Racing is which between the types of fairing bodywork is distinguished for its use, that is, this fairing bodywork is born and it is developed in order to answer carefully and to satisfy the requirements of the pilots. Fairing bodywork the Cruciata Racing in glass-reinforced plastic obviously is demanded for that it regards the sport within and the contests in track, because they are the only ones like characteristic to resist to the sollicitations impegnative thanks to theirs reinforces inner. Moreover to being resistant, these fairing bodywork offer to an optimal elasticity and lightness. Fairing bodywork the Cruciata Racing of sure the fairing bodywork better is produced with the best materials on the market. The fairing bodywork in glass-reinforced plastic they can be acquired crude, or can be painted and prepared in in professional way, applying all the processes of preparation that guarantee a final result of elevated quality, is from the aesthetic point of view, the point of view of the duration and from the point of view of I use it of the fairing bodywork.

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TOYOTA SPECIALTY AND REPLACEMENT PARTS

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 30-09-2011

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73-3844 Replaces: 3977775, 3078511 CLIP -HOOD INSULATION Head Dia.: 2″ Length: 3/4″ G.M. ’64/ UNIT PACKAGE 100 79-5126 Replaces: 20064875 CLIP -HOOD INSULATION Head Dia.: 1 21/32″ Length: 3/4″ G.M. ’78/ UNIT PACKAGE 50 79-5127 Replaces: 20030401 CLIP -HOOD INSULATION Head Dia.: 1 3/8″ Length: 1″ G.M. ’80/ UNIT PACKAGE 50 79-5100 Replaces: 388908-S RETAINER -HOOD INSULATION Head Dia.: 1-3/4″ Ford ’80/ UNIT PACKAGE 100 74-3945 Replaces: 385330-S, 6003351 FASTENER -HOOD INSULATION Ford & Chrysler Products ’73/ AMC 4005513 ’76 UNIT PACKAGE 100 92-7067 Replaces: 15678493, 21039141 RETAINER -HOOD INSULATION Head Dia.: 1-9/16″ Length: 1/2″, Hole: 1/4″ Plastic Saturn ’91/ UNIT PACKAGE 25 67-3119 Replaces: 389809, C6GY-16776-A CLIP -HOOD INSULATION RETAINER 1-1/2″ x 1-1/2″ Plastic G.M., Ford Products UNIT PACKAGE 50 72-3718 Replaces: 389089 FASTENER -HOOD INSULATION 2″ x 2″ Plastic G.M. Cars UNIT PACKAGE 50 99-8032 Replaces: 385595-S, 386553-S RETAINER -HOOD INSULATION Plastic Formerly 74-3944 For Heavier Type Insulation Head: 1-3/16 Ford ’74/ UNIT PACKAGE 50 95-7382 Replaces: N-803613-S RETAINER -HOOD INSULATION Hole: 1/4″, Head: 1-3/4″ Stem Length: 7/8″ Plastic Ford Explorer ’91/, Taurus, Sable, Mustang, Continental ’92/ UNIT PACKAGE 50 95-7369 Replaces: W700671-S300 RETAINER -HOOD INSULATION Head Dia.: 25MM, Hole: 8MM Black Plastic Ford Contour & Mercury Mystique ’95/ UNIT PACKAGE 15 96-7577 Replaces: 01644290, 15678979, 01553-0075U RETAINER -SPEAKER, DOOR SILL, BUMPER, HOOD INSULATOR Black Plastic Hole: M6, Barb Length: 12MM Head Dia.: 11MM, O/L: 19MM G.M. Various Models ’86/, Nissan Altima & Maxima 2002/

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1999-2004 Kawasaki 1500 Drifter Power Commander Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1 Remove the seat. 2 Remove the left side cover. 3 Remove the speedometer assembly. 4 Unbolt the fuel tank. NOTE: It is not necessary to remove the fuel tank. It does however make the installation easier. If you do remove the tank, pay attention to the vent hose routing. Pressing the tabs on the black fuel line connector will allow the fuel line to be disconnected (Fig. A) 5 Remove the battery/ECU hold down bracket (Fig. B). 6 Unbolt and move the bank angle (tip over) sensor out of the way (Fig. C). Fig. A Fig. B Fig. C i201-411 www.powercommander.com 1999-2004 Kawasaki 1500 Drifter – PCIII USB – 2 Bank angle sensor (tip over switch) Remove these 2 bolts 7 Loosen the bolts holding the plastic tray on the left side of the bike (under the left side cover) (Fig. D). 8 Route the wire from the PCIII behind the plastic tray and under the frame side rail (Fig. E). 9 Retighten the bolts holding the plastic tray. 10 Continue routing the wires from the PCIII under the frame near the lower fuel tank mount and go up to the throttle body area (Fig. F). Fig. D Fig. E Fig F i201-411 www.powercommander.com 1999-2004 Kawasaki 1500 Drifter – PCIII USB – 3 Route PCIII harness between plastic tray and frame Route wires under frame Loosen these bolts 11 Disconnect the injector connector from the rear injector (Fig. H). 12 Plug the female PCIII connector with ORANGE/WHITE wire onto the rear injector (Fig. H). 13 Connect the male PCIII connector with ORANGE wire onto the stock injector connector (Fig. H). 14 Repeat steps 11 thru 13 for front injector using the PCIII connectors with the YELLOWcolored wires. 15 Locate the wires coming from the throttle position sensor. (Fig. H). The throttle position sensor is located on the right hand side of the throttle body. It is between the frame and engine

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2000 YAMAHA YZF-R1 SERVICE MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 27-11-2010

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CABLE ROUTING SPEC AProperly insert the meter assembly coupler and rubber boot into the meter assembly. BRoute the meter assembly lead through the left side of the headlight housing. CThe speedometer lead with not be tighten. DInstall the headlight relays onto the headlight housing bridge. EConnect to the right front turn signal connectors. FRoute the turn signal leads upper the headlight housing boss. 1 Clutch cable 2 Left handlebar switch lead 3 Starter cable 4 Main switch lead 5 Steering cover EB206000 CABLE ROUTING -21- NRoute the thermo switch/temperature sender sub- wire harness to the outside of the radiator cap. ORoute the right handlebar switch lead behind the throttle cables. Do not cross the throttle cables and the right handlebar switch lead. PRoute the right handlebar switch lead in front of the throttle cables. GFasten the headlight lead with a plastic clamp at white tape mark. HFasten the wire harness to the headlight housing boss with a plastic locking tie. IRoute the headlight lead through the plastic guide. JRoute the throttle cable to the front side of the brake hose. KRoute the clutch cable behind the front fork leg. LMake sure that the horn leads face out. MRoute the throttle cables and right handlebar switch lead between the lower bracket and steering cover. CABLE ROUTING SPEC -22- CRoute the rollover-valve-to-fuel-tank hose to the inside of the fuel hose (California only). DRoute the coolant reservoir breather hose over the timing chain tensioner. EInsert the plastic clip through the hole in the plastic frame panel and then fasten the wire harness and coolant reservoir breather hose with it. FRoute the clutch cable between the radiator bracket and frame and in front of the thermostat assembly breather hose. GRoute the clutch cable to the inside of the radiator inlet hose. HInsert the plastic clamp into the hole in the coolant reservoir’s tab

Kawasaki ZX-14 TITANIUM SIDEWINDER EXHAUST Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 30-04-2012

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STEP 2: PRE-ASSEMBLE HEADERS, COLLECTOR, AND MID-PIPE TO INSURE PROPER FIT BETWEEN ALL PARTS: Brock’s Performance pre-assembles the exhaust system before it is shipped to your door. We ask you to this to insure there were no shipping damages incurred before you start disassembling your bike. A lot of our customers use WD-40 applied to the joints to ease assembly, adjustment, and/or disassembly. STEP 3: REMOVE ZX-14 RIGHT AND LEFT DASHBOARDS : The right and left dashboards are held in place by three fasteners (Figure 4) which are removed with a No. 4 hex head wrench. Note that all dashboard and fairing fasteners have thin plastic washers located between the fastener head and the plastic body work. Be careful to save the plastic washers. To avoid losing fasteners and washers it is recommended that the installer place them in a container once they are removed. STEP 4: REMOVE ZX-14 LOWER FAIRING : The lower fairing consists of separate right and left side panels, both of which should be removed. The locations of the bolts and plastic push pins holding the fairing in place are illustrated in Figure 5. Details are provided below. • The plastic push pins is located in the front of the fairing (3) , aft of the front tire, and holds the left and right panels together. Remove the plastic push pins using a thin blade screw driver to lift the rivet head. Then pull the rivet from the bodywork. This will release the right panel from the left panel. • Remove the lower fairing fasteners & washers (1 & 2) on the right fairing panel with a No. 5 hex head wrench. • Remove the upper fairing fasteners & washers (4, 5, & 6) on the right fairing panel with a No. 4 hex head wrench. • Note that the top of the fairing incorporates slots into which hooks at the bottom of the mid fairing (red bodywork) fit. These hooks are shown in Figure 8. Pull the bottom of the lower fairing panel away from the bike and then downward to clear the hooks from the slots. The right side lower fairing should now separate easily from the mid-fairing. • Repeat for the left side lower fairing

Honda Foreman 500 And Honda Rubicon WINCH MOUNTING KIT INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 13-12-2011

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Begin by removing the front skid plate located on the front of the ATV. Remove the four side 8mm bolts and four bottom 6mm bolts securing the front skid plate, figure 1. Save the fasteners as they will be used later to reinstall the front skid plate. 2. Remove the four plastic rivets on each side of the front plastic fascia, figure 2. Use a large screw driver to carefully remove the center rivet. After removing the center rivet, remove the rivet housing. Save the fasteners as they will be used to reinstall the front plastic fascia. 3. Remove the two 6mm bolts that attach the front plastic fascia to the bumper, figure 3. Remove the front plastic fascia at this time . Remove the two 6mm bolts that attach the front bumper to the plastic headlight assembly, figure 4. Save the fasteners as they will be used to reinstall the front bumper. 5. Remove the two top 8mm bumper bolts that attach the front bumper to the front rack, figure 5. Save the fasteners as they will be used to reinstall the front bumper. Figure 5 Remove Top Bumper Bolts Remove (both sides) 6. Remove the two ottom bumper bolts that attach the bumper to the bottom of the vehicle frame, figure 6. Save the fasteners as they will be used to reinstall the front bumper

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Kawasaki Z1000 Engine Case Sliders Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1. Remove the left factory engine plastic cover by removing the two OEM bolts. 2. Replace the left factory engine plastic cover with the SkykingProducts. com Delrin plastic engine slider and add the two longer bolts supplied in stock bolt holes. 3. Tighten the two 6mm bolts provided to factory torque specifications. 4. Repeat for the right side engine cover. NOTE: LOCKTITE MUST BE APPLIED TO THE M6 BOLTS TO FASTEN THE PLASTIC SLIDERS. Warranty and Remedy: Skyking hereby warrants that at the time of delivery thereof the parts bought will be free from defects in material and workmanship and will conform to the requirements of the order. Skyking assumes no liability for faulty or improper installation or use. All claims under this warranty must be made in writing to Skyking. Upon receipt of authorization from Skyking, the parts claimed to defective or non-conforming must be returned freight prepaid, to Skyking. Skyking will repair, or its option, replace any defective or nonconforming parts and will return the repaired part or its replacement without charge. The failure to give Skyking written notice of any claim hereunder within the warranty period shall constitute a waiver of all claims hereunder. The foregoing states Skyking’s remedy for any breach of warranty and for any claim whether sounding in contract or tort, based upon any defect in Skyking’s parts. This warranty does not extend to the parts that have been altered or repaired nor does it extend to parts that has been subjected to misuse, neglect, accident, or improper installation.

HARLEY DAVIDSON FLHX MIRROR COVERS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 22-03-2011

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INSTALLATION 1. Remove the outer fairing using service manual instructions. 2. See Figure 1. Remove the mirrors (1) and retain the flange nuts (2) and plastic backing plates (3) securing the mirrors to the inner fairing. Do not heat or bake plastic parts after painting. Applying heat can damage plastic parts. (00615b) NOTE The adhesive will not bond correctly if it is applied at temperatures less than 50° F (10° C). 3. For primed/painted mirror kits: See Figure 2. Install mounting tape to the mirror covers as follows: a. Clean the tape mounting surface of the mirror cover (1) with alcohol pads provided. Allow to dry com- pletely. b. Get the primer tube and follow the instructions on the tube to activate the primer. When the primer is activated apply the primer to the tape mounting surface of the mirror cover. c. Rub the adhesive backing of the mounting tape (2 or 3) to activate the adhesive then remove the backing. d. Install mounting tape to the mirror cover in the locations shown. Press tape and hold in place for 60 seconds. e. Repeat steps c and d and attach each piece of mounting tape to the mirror cover as shown, then repeat step 3 for the opposite mirror cover. 4. Clean the backside of the mirrors with the alcohol pads provided. Allow to dry completely. 5. Get the primer tube and follow the instructions on the tube to activate the primer. When the primer is activated apply the primer to the back face of the mirror. 6. Rub the adhesive backing on the backside of the mirror cover to activate the adhesive then remove the backing. 7. Place the mirror cover over the backside of the mirror and press into place for a minimum of 60 seconds. 8. Repeat steps 4 through 6 for the opposite mirror. 9. With the mirror post on the outboard side, place the plastic backing plate against the inner fairing engaging two holes in the washer with the threaded stud and index pin. The letters “L” or “R” are stamped on the backing plate posts to differentiate between the left and right side. Repeat for opposite mirror. 10. Install the flange nut on the threaded stud and tighten to 30-40 in-lbs (3.4-4.5 Nm) . 11. Install the outer fairing using the service manual instruc- tions

Honda CBR 954 RR Undertail Kit INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 04-12-2011

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Carefully remove the tail section body work. Save all bolts, washers and plastic rivets for re-installation of tail. Disconnect and remove the brake light (with all mounting grommets and washers), license plate and turn signals, key lock (with clip) and move all wiring out of the cutting areas. Remove the two bolts at the rear end of the stock fender (inside glove box) to allow the end to hang down for cutting.
2) Using a “Dremel” tool or cutting disc (this can also be done using a sharp edged knife, but is not recommended), remove the plastic shown in the photos to the above and below. Be sure to take your time cutting, so that you don’t cut away any more plastic than necessary. Honda CBR954RR Undertail Kit (2002-03, Available in: Honda Red, Gloss Black and Gun Metal) 3) *Install license plate brackets to back side of license plate as shown. Now hold license plate in desired location on undertail, carefully mark and drill holes, install using the two (2) sets of allen bolts and lock nuts. 4) Insert undertail left side first, then right side, be carefully not to crack
or scratch undertail. Use your stock plastic screw rivets to hold under- tail in place. Tighten all hardware on tail section, attach seat.
5) Using clips, splice your turn signal wires to the signals in the undertail. On the bike; the orange wire is the the left turn, light blue wire is the right turn and the green wires are the grounds. On the undertail the red wires are the power wires and the black wires are the ground. * After this modification your undertail is not returnable. Paint is not warrantied against paint chips, flaking or scratches from installation or rocks being thrown from tire into the tray. Need Help? If you need additional help with the installation of the undertail, go to www.hotbodiesracing.com and look for the “FAQs” link at the bottom of the home page. Most of your general questions can be answered on those pages. This installation does require a basic mechani- cal aptitude, if in doubt, contact your local motorcycle shop and have a professional mechanic perform the installation, 3 hours is the average installation time

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HARLEY DAVIDSON ULTRA TOUR-PAK BRAKE LAMP CHROME ACCENT COVERS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 24-02-2011

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Installation- Corner Brake Lamp Trim 1. Carefully cut out brake lamp trim template (1) attached to this instruction sheet. 2. Position template (1) on plastic brake housing (2) as shown in Figure 2. 3. Using a punch, score two points indicated on template to mark mounting hole locations (3) on plastic brake housing (2). 4. Using a 1/8 in. drill bit, drill a pilot hole in plastic housing. 5. Use a 7/32 in. drill bit to drill through housing and fiberglass Tour-Pak. 6. See Figure 3. Insert studs on chrome brake lamp trim piece through holes drilled in plastic housing and Tour- Pak. Using two flatwashers (1), two lockwashers (2) and two acorn nuts (3) from kit, secure trim piece to Tour- Pak. Tighten finger tight. 7. See Figure 3. Locate brake lamp retaining clip (4) on inside of Tour-Pak and remove. Save clip (4) for later reinstallation. 8. Form chrome trim around corner of Tour-Pak, so that it is positioned around plastic housing evenly. While holding chrome trim in position, mark forward mounting hole position on Tour-Pak using a punch

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