convert a 1200 honda to chain drive

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Harley-Davidson CHAIN DRIVE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 15-04-2012

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1) Assemble & install the chain tensioner assembly over the primary chain as shown in figure 1. 2) Install the compensator sprocket with extender & spacer (numbers 5, 6, & 7, FIG 2)(#7 is not included in this kit), primary chain, chain tensioner, and clutch basket simultaneously onto the motor drive shaft & transmission main shaft. Rotate the chain drive slightly as needed to allow the splines to line-up. 3) Install the chain tensioner nut loosely on the chain tensioner bolt. 4) Install the sliding cam onto the compensator sprocket, & slide the compensating sprocket cover-assembly (#3) over the cam. 5) Apply 2 drops of Rivera “Red” thread-lock on the threads of the motor drive shaft, & install the motor nut loosely with the fingers at this time. The hex spacer (#7) and spacer (#2) as seen in fig.2 are not provided in Rivera Engineering’s chain drive kit. These components are required with some applications, and can be purchased from your local Harley-Davidson dealer. FIG 2 6) Apply 2 drops of Rivera “red” thread-lock on the threads of the transmission main-shaft and loosely install the clutch hub nut (left hand threads). 7) Place the HD “Primary Drive Locking Tool” HD-41214 on the primary chain as shown in figure XXX and tighten the motor sprocket nut to 150-165 foot-pounds. 8)Turn the locking tool 180 degrees and move it to the clutch sprocket. Tighten the clutch hub nut to 70-80 foot pounds (left- hand thread). Adjust chain tension so that the top strand has 5/8″- to-7/8″ of up and down play (cold drive train). Tighten the center bolt nut to 21-29 foot pounds of torque.

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MOTORCYCLE ROLLER CHAIN Maintenance and Lubrication

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 27-11-2010

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Cleaning and Relubrication Perhaps the largest contributor to shortened chain life is inadequate lubrica- tion. All working parts of a chain should be lubricated uniformly. The use of the highest viscosity oil that allows for flow between the link plates and coats pin-bushing areas will normally provide the greatest wear resistance. Apply oil to the upper edges of link plates. This allows for the greatest access of oil to pin-bushing joints. For open drives, excess lubrication on outer chain surfaces should be removed, since it will either be thrown off during operation or serve to collect foreign materials. If foreign objects or surplus lubrication accumulates on chain surfaces to the extent of making re-lubrication of the joints impossible, the chain must be cleaned. Standard roller chains may be cleaned by washing in kerosene or any other good petroleum-based solvent. WARNING: These solvents are flammable. Agitate the chain to assure penetration of the solvent and a thorough flushing of the pin-bushing areas. Drain off excess solvent and inspect bushings and pins for wear. Replace the chain if wear is excessive or parts are fractured or missing. O-ring chains may be cleaned externallyby washing in kerosene. Do not use any other cleaning agent or the O-rings may be damaged. When cleaning O- ring chain, clean only the external areas of the chain. Do not attempt to force kerosene into the pin-bush cavity. Do not try to repair a worn-out chain by replacing individual links. The pitch of the new links will be shorter and will most likely result in chain fatigue failure and/or severe sprocket damage. For chains which are still usable, soak them in SAE 40 or 50 automotive engine oil (without additives). Flexing the chain in oil will assure greater penetration of lubricant. Inspect and clean sprockets. If sprockets are worn or damaged, they should be replaced.Installing new chain on worn out sprockets will significantly shorten the chain’s service life. WARNING: always wear eye protection when assembling or disassembling chain

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Ural Motorcycle Repair Manual

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Filed Under (Ural) by admin on 11-11-2010

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FLUID CAPACITIES TOURIST & -10 Models Sportsman Solo Gasoline tank 19 L / 5 Gal 19L / 5 Gal 18.5 L / 4.9 Gal Reserve 2L / 0.5 gal 2L / 0.5 gal 2L- / 0.5 Gal Engine crankcase 2 L / 2 qt. + 3.6 oz. 2.0L / 2.11 qt 2 L / 2 qt. + 3.6 oz. Gearbox 0.9L / 1 qt 0.9L / 1 qt 0.9L / 1 qt Final drive 110 ml / 3.85 oz. 150 ml / 5.25 oz. 110 ml / 3.85 oz. Telescopic Forks (-10 & solo models) N/A on Tourist N/A on Sportsman 135 ml / 4.56 oz. Shock Absorbers 105 ml / 3.55 105 ml / 3.55 oz 105 ml / 3.55 oz
RUNNING GEAR TOURIST / SPORTSMAN SOLO Frame Tubular welded Rear wheel suspension Swing arm with hydraulic spring shock absorbers Sidecar: same as -40 Solo: Lower spring rate Front fork Leading link Telescopic spring Sidecar Cushioned body (on rubber cushions) and wheel on long-lever suspension with hydraulic spring shock absorber N/A Brakes Shoe-type with mechanical drive on front, rear and sidecar wheels, front wheel has dual cams. Tires 4″ x 19″ Front & Side: 22 psi cold Rear: 36 psi cold 3.5″ x 18″ Solo: Front 25 psi cold Rear: 32 psi cold -10′s: Front & side: 25 psi cold Rear: 36 psi cold CLEARANCES mm in Valves with engine cold 0.05 0.002 Between spark plug electrodes 0.50 – 0.65 0.020 – 0.026 Between brake shoes and drum 0.3 – 0.70 0.012 – 0.028 Backlash between tooth faces of bevel gears in final drive 0.1 – 0.3 0.004 Between rotor and ignition pickup 0.3 – 0.4 .012 – .016 FREE TRAVEL / ADJUSTMENTS mm in Hand brake control lever 5 – 8 0.2 – 0.3 Clutch control lever 5 – 8 0.2 – 0.3 Foot brake drive pedal ¼ of full stroke of pedal, 25 – 30 1.0 – 1.2 Toe-in throughout motorcycle center distance (exception: Sportsman 0 ° toe-in) 10 N/A Angle of motorcycle inclination to vertical plane (camber angle of rear wheel) 1° away from sidecar N/A Headlight installation (with motorcycle laden) horizontal (high beam) TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS Metric (in repair manual) US Equivalent Location on Bike 29 to 33 Nm 22 ft/lb. to 30 ft/lb. cylinder heads 22 to 25 kgf-m 175 ft/lb. to 185 ft/lb. fly wheel tightening screws 3.8 to 4.2 kgf-m 30 ft/lb. to 40 ft/lb. cylinder 2.1 to 3.0 kgf-m top 14 ft/lb. to 22 ft/lb. shock absorber 3.6 to 5.0 kgf-m bottom 28 ft/lb. to 36 ft/lb. shock absorber 3.0 to 3.4 kgf-m 22 ft/lb. to 26 ft/lb. bearing nut 3.0 to 3-4 kgf-m 22 ft/lb. to 26 ft/lb. final drive to swing arm bolts 1.6 to 1.8 kgf-m 12 ft/lb. to 14 ft/lb. oil pump bolt .8 to 1.0 kgf-m 5 ft/lb. to 8 ft/lb. engine sump 1.4 to 1.8 kgf-m 10 ft/lb. to 14 ft/lb. final drive case nuts 7 to 9 kgf-m 50 ft/lb. to 66 ft/lb. nut fastening the pinion bearing 2.2 to 2.8 kgf-m 16 ft/lb. to 20 ft/lb. reverse gear brake lever 1.8 to 2.0 kgf-m 14 ft/lb. to 16 ft/lb. generator gear nut 14.0 to 16.8 kgf-m 100 ft/lb to 120 ft/lb steering stem nut CONVERSIONS To convert from mm to in, divide by 25.4 (there are 25.4 mm per inch). To convert from liters to gallons, divide by 3.785 (there are 3.78 liters per gallon). To convert from liters to quarts, multiply by 1.056 (there are 1.056 quarts per liter). To convert from liters to pints, multiply by 2.112 (there are 2.112 pints per liter). To convert from km to miles, multiply by .62 (there is .62 mile per km). To convert from km/hr to mph, multiply by .62. To convert from Newton-meter (Nm) to inch-pound, multiply by 8.86. To convert from cm 3 (cc) to pints, divide by 473 (there are 473 cc per pint). To convert Celsius to Fahrenheit, F° = C° x 1.8 = 32°. To convert Fahrenheit to Celsius,C ° = (F° – 32° ) divided by 1.8

HONDA CRF250R OWNER'S MANUAL AND COMPETITION HANDBOOK

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 04-12-2010

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Before Riding 9 Is Y our Motorcycle Ready to Ride? Competitive riding can be tough on a motorcycle, so it’s important to inspect your CRF and correct any problems you find before each ride. Check the following items (page numbers are at the right): Pre-ride Inspection Check the following before each ride: • Engine oil level ……………. ……………. ………….37 •T ransmission oil level……….. ……………. ……..40 • Coolant for proper level……….. ……………. …..41 • Cooling system and hoses for condition……. 42 • Spark plug for proper heat range, carbon fouling and high tension cord terminal for looseness ……………. ……………. ……………. …….55 • Air cleaner for condition and contamination… ……………. ……………. ………….43 • Clutch lever adjustment and freeplay ………..49 • Hot start lever freeplay ……………. ……………. .54 • Breather drain for cleaning ……………. ………..45 • Steering head bearing and related parts for condition……. ……………. ……………. ………..91 • Carburetor throttle operation ……………. ……..47 •T yres for damage or improper inflation pressure ……………. ……………. ……………. ……..82 • Spokes for looseness……. ……………. …………..81 • Rim locks for looseness……. ……………. ………81 • Front and rear suspension for proper operation ……………. ……………. ……………. .72, 73 • Front and rear brakes, check operation ……..77 • Drive chain for correct slack and adequate lubrication ……………. ……………. ……………. …..84 • Drive chain guide, sliders and drive chain rollers for damage or wear……… ………….84, 85 • Exhaust pipe/Muffler inspection…… ………….87 • Steering damper operation inspection ……….91 • Every possible part for looseness (such as cylinder head nuts, engine mounting bolts/nuts, axle nuts, handlebar holder bolts, fork bridge pinch bolts, drive chain adjuster, drive chain guide, wire harness connectors, kickstarter mounting bolt) ……………. 148 -

Yamaha YZ 250F Camshafts REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 30-12-2011

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Remove the 4 bolts that hold the exhaust cam cap in place, lift the cam cap off. It may be necessary to pry very lightly on the cap to lift it off its dowel pins. Do not use the cam lobes as the pry point. Be careful not to drop the dowels and also be careful to not lose the half moon shaped retainer for the bearing under the cam cap. Remove the 6 bolts that hold the intake camshaft cap and lift the cam cap off the camshaft, again, be careful to not drop the retainer or dowels. Lift the intake camshaft out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting. Remove the cam chain from the sprocket, set the stock camshaft aside. Lift the exhaust cam out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting and remove the chain from the sprocket. Do not drop the cam chain, dangle it over the side of the engine while keeping slight upward pressure on the chain to maintain its position on the drive sprocket on the crankshaft. Fit the half moon shaped retainers in the grooves of the Hot Cams camshaft bearings to ensure good fit, set retainers aside for the time. Using assembly lube, lube the shim buckets, bearing surfaces for the camshafts in the cylinder head, and pack some in the camshaft bearings. Set the exhaust cam into the cylinder head casting while at the same time fitting the cam chain over the sprocket. Make sure that you keep all the cam chain slack to the back of the engine. The cam chain pulls the camshaft sprockets in a counter clockwise direction and the slack of the chain must be kept on the cam chain tensioner side of the engine. The exhaust cam has two timing marks on it. When correctly installed one mark will be at the 9 o’clock position and the other mark will be at the 12 o’clock position. When correctly timed the mark at 9 o’clock will be aligned with the valve cover gasket surface. Repeat the above process for the intake camshaft. Again, make sure you keep the chain slack to the cam chain tensioner side of the engine. Check to be sure the crankshaft is still at TDC. The intake cam has two timing marks also. One at 12 o’clock and the other at 3 o’clock. When both cams are installed correctly, the valve cover gasket surface will form a straight line through the exhaust timing mark at 9 o’clock and the intake timing mark at 3 o’clock

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Harley-Davidson Twin Cam Engines Cam Chain Drive System Installation and removal MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 27-03-2012

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Removing the Cam Chain Drive System. NOTES Changing camshafts and cam drives in the 2006-up Harley-Davidson® Twin Cam 88® engines is different than in pervious engines. Procedures require use • of some special tools. Installation should be done by an experienced mechanic with access to factory service manual and required tools. Tighten all fasteners to the correct specifications and in order described. Always use an accurate torque wench. • Incorrect installation can cause engine damage not covered under warranty. CAUTION Failure to install components correctly can result in sudden engine seizure. Engine seizure may result in serous injury to motorcycle operator, passenger, or others. A- Disconnect the battery ground cable to eliminate potential sparks and inadvertently engagement of the starter while working on the motorcycle. B- Remove spark plugs and pushrod cover clips. Collapse the pushrod covers to expose the pushrods. C- Safely elevate and stabilize the rear of the motorcycle. Place the transmission in high gear. Turn the rear wheel to rotate the engine until both lifters and pushrods for either cylinder are at the lowest point on the camshaft (TDC of compression stroke). Both intake and exhaust pushrods for that cylinder will be under pressure from the valve springs and will rotate with light finger pressure. NOTE: 510G camshafts may use stock style non-adjustable pushrods instead of adjustable pushrods. If installing non-adjustable pushrods, disassemble and assemble rocker boxes per H-D® instructions. All other S&S® gear driven cams require installing adjustable pushrods. As a time-saving measure, the stock pushrods can be removed with bolt cutters. Be sure to head caution and warnings of these instructions. D- Cut the pushrods for the cylinder that is at TDC with the bolt cutter and remove the pushrod covers from the engine. Rotate the engine to place the pushrods for the other cylinder at their lowest point. Cut and remove the remaining pushrods. WARNING CAUTION Cutting pushrods with a saw or cutoff wheel may result in debris entering the engine, causing engine damage not covered under warranty. WARNING Cutting pushrods without releasing spring pressure, by rotating the engine until tappets are at the lowest point of travel can result in bodily injury. E- Remove the pushrod covers and lifters form the crankcase. F- Remove engine cam cover and gasket. Secure lifers with a tool made from a large binder clip

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HONDA VTX, VTX RETRO AND VALKYRIE DRIVE SHAFT COVER INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 21-12-2010

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1. Place the cover over the drive shaft housing. 2. Hook one end of the springs provided into the lower holes. Wrap the springs around the backside of the drive shaft housing. Using a needle nose pliers stretch the springs and hook them into the upper holes. 3. Note; if springs are too long, shorten and reform end to be able to hook spring in place.

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MC 1200 Motorcycle Trailer – 1200 lbs Assembly Instructions

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 29-01-2011

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Tongue: Remove tongue assembly from the frame bundle. Insert into the tongue channel and slide into the front cross member of the frame. Secure with two (2) 3/8″ X 4″ carriage bolts and 3/8″ flange lock nuts. Tighten. Thread the tongue wire harness through the front top hole in the tongue and pull out the hole provided in the left side of the tongue towards the rear. Connect to the frame harness with the plugs provided. Install grommets. Safety Chains: Insert a 3/8″ X 1-1/4″ hex bolt into a 3/8″ flat washer, safety chain and then through the lower hole on the front of the tongue. Place on a 3/8″ flat washer on the inside of the tongue and secure with 3/8″ flange lock nuts. Repeat procedure on the opposite side of the tongue. Tighten. Coupler: Mount the coupler onto the tongue with a 1/2″ X 4″ hex bolt trough the rear mounting holes of the coupler. Using two (2) 1/2″ X 1″ hex bolt attach the coupler to the tongue using the front mounting holes. Secure with flange lock nuts. Tighten. Axle: Attach the spring busing in the rear spring shackles with 1/2″ X 3- 1/4″ hex bolts and 1/2″ flange lock nuts. Position the axle under the trailer with spring eye to the front of the trailer. Slip the flat end of the spring in the rear spring shackle above the bushing just installed. Secure the front spring eye to the front spring shackle with 98/16″ X 3-1/4″ hex bolts and 9/16″ hex lock nuts. Tighten. Mount the tire and rim assemblies to the axle assembly with 1/2″ lug nuts and tighten to 80-90 ft./lbs. of torque using the rotation pattern as shown in the Shore Land’r Owners Manual . Retorque the lug nuts after 50 miles of driving and then periodically thereafter. Ramps: Locate the loading ramp. Note that one end has two holes punched in the bottom of the channel. (See parts drawing) Insert a 3/8″ X 1-1/2″ full threaded carriage bolt into one of these holes. Secure in this position using a 3/8″ flange lock nut. Tighten Place a second 3/8″ flange lock nut onto the same bolt only until the threads of the bolt are exposed through the nut locking it in

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Kawasaki KFX KLX 400 Camshafts Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Remove the plug bolt from the back of the cam chain tensioner assembly. It is under pressure from the spring. Remove the spring and pin. Remove the bolts and tensioner assembly from the cylinder. Release the lock on the tensioner assembly and push the tensioner rod into the assembly so that it is fully retracted. Remove the eight 5mm Allen headed bolts that hold the cam caps in place. Remove the cam caps; be aware of the locating dowels in the caps to keep them from falling into the engine. It may be necessary to pry very lightly on the caps to lift them off their dowel pins. Do not use the cam lobe as the pry point. Lift the intake camshaft out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting. Remove the cam chain from the sprocket, set the stock camshaft aside. Lift the exhaust cam out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting and remove the chain from the sprocket. Do not drop the cam chain; dangle it over the side of the engine while keeping slight upward pressure on the chain to maintain its position on the drive sprocket on the crankshaft. Using assembly lube, lube the shim buckets and bearing surfaces for the camshafts in the cylinder head. Set the exhaust camshaft into the cylinder head casting while at the same time fitting the cam chain over the sprocket. Make sure that you keep all the cam chain slack to the back of the engine. Repeat the above process for the intake camshaft. Again, make sure you keep the chain slack to the cam chain tensioner side of the engine. Check to be sure the crankshaft is still at TDC. Check the location of the cam lobes. The camshafts are marked, and preset to 108-degree centers. If the lobes are not where they should be, adjust the positioning of the camshaft by rotating the sprocket one tooth on the chain. Do this until it is in the correct position as before you removed the camshafts. Check the positioning of the crankshaft for the TDC mark

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HONDA GL1800 TIMING CHAIN COVER INSPECTION NUT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 28-02-2011

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GL1800 TIMING CHAIN COVER INSPECTION NUT 1. Place bike on center stand. 2. Remove the inspection nut on the bike using a 17mm socket. 3. Remove the rubber o-ring seal from the inspection nut and place on new inspection nut. 4. Install the new inspection nut using the 17mm socket.

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