converting a 1976 sportster to right side shift

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Yamaha Road Star Forward Control Kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 08-11-2010

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Before starting to assemble this forward kit on your motorcycle check the packing list to make sure that the kit you received is the correct one for your model motorcycle and that the foot pegs are the style you ordered (billet or ISO). Next check the contents hardware kit P.N.0109-1000 against the packing list for completeness. Installing The Shift Control Photo 1 Remove wires from horn. Remove the two hex head bolts (Save for later installation) that mount the OEM shift controls to your motorcycle. Unthread stock shift rod at trans shift arm, leaving OEM rod end connected to stock shift arm. Using Original Metric hardware, place a drop of Loctite #242 (blue) to the bolt threads and mount the shift control plate to the motorcycle frame, Photo 2. FORWARD CONTROL KIT PM SHIFT CONTROL ASSEMBLY Note Before torquing the shift control mounting bolts down, tighten them snug and look behind the shift control mounting plate to where it contacts the mounting lug on the frame. Make sure it fits squarely to the lug before proceeding further. Torque the two shift control mounting bolts down to 25 ft-lb. Using a 3/8″ x 1″ hex head bolt with a lock and flat washer put a drop of Loctite #242 (blue) on the threads and insert the bolt through the rear of the control mounting plate and attach the foot-peg pivot to it. Tighten the bolt while holding the footpeg pivot so that its hinge is lined up in a 45˚ rear facing angle. Thread supplied shift rod coupler to stock shift rod end at trans arm. Mount the shift pedal to the other end of the shift ro d using a 5/16″ x 1″ socket head screw and Nylocnut . Adjust the transmission shift linkage so that the shift arm on the forward controls and the shift arm on the transmission are parallel. Secure it with the jam nuts. Apply a drop of Loctite #242 (blue) to the threads under the jam nut before tightening see Photo 3 After you have assembled the shift control onto your motorcycle you must align the footpeg. The folding footpeg assembly uses a blind stud to attach the footpeg to the footpeg pivot. Shim washers (3/8″ x .015″) are used on the stud between the footpeg and the pivot, see Photo 4, so that the top surface of the footpeg is correctly aligned for your foot when it is tightened down on the pivot. This is done by setting a couple of shim washers on the footpeg mounting stud “A” and then screwing the footpeg onto the mounting stud, if the footpeg is rotated to far forward then add another shim washer, if not far enough then remove a shim washer. After you have the selected the correct number of shims for your footpeg, disassemble the footpeg and put a drop of Loctite #271 (red) on both ends of the stud and reassemble the footpeg. This will also need to be done on the brake control footpeg. Setting Up the Master Cylinder The master cylinder pushrod return spring and pushrod boot must be installed on the master cylinder before it is assembled onto the forward control mount. The parts are shown in Photo 5: pushrod boot (A), pushrod return spring (B), spring seat washer (C), and master cylinder (D). Place the return spring seat washer into bore of master cylinder so that is sits on top of the piston retaining snap ring. Next set the pushrod return spring on the seat washer and slide the pushrod boot over the return spring now slip the big end of the boot over the flange on the master cylinder so that the ridge on the inside of the boot fits into groove “A” that is machined into the end of the master cylinder flange, see Photo 6. Installing The Brake Control Unplug stock brake light switch at master cylinder. Remove brake line from rear caliper. Remove the existing brake controls from your motorcycle down to the control mounting lug that is welded on to the frame’s right side, see Photo 8. Save Metric hardware for later use. A Shim Washer PHOTO 4 A B C D PHOTO 5 A PHOTO 6 PHOTO 7 Note For complete brake system removal instructions and precau – tions refer to the appropriate service manual for your year and model motorcycle

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HARLEY DAVIDSON SPORTSTER FORWARD CONTROL KITS REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 07-02-2011

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Remove Stock Shift Lever and Footrest Assembly 1. See Figure 1. Loosen the shift lever retaining screw (2) securing the shift lever (1) to the shifter shaft. Slide the shift lever off the splined shaft. Remove shifter peg from lever and save for installation. Discard shift lever. 2. Remove the two socket head screws (4) securing the footrest bracket (3) to the frame and remove footrest. Discard screws. 3. See Figure 6. Obtain two hole plugs (1) from kit and firmly press plugs into frame screw holes remaining from footrest removal. 4. See Figure 2. Remove the retaining ring (1) from the clevis to free the footrest clevis pin (4). Remove the clevis pin and footrest (3) from the footrest support. Save footrest for installation. Discard retaining ring, clevis pin, spring washer and footrest bracket. 1 2 4 3 is03193 1. Shift lever 2. Retaining screw 3. Footrest bracket 4. Socket head screw (2) Figure 1. Remove Shift Lever and Footrest 5 1 3 2 4 is03194 1. Retaining ring 2. Spring washer 3. Footrest 4. Clevis pin 5. Footrest bracket Figure 2. Remove Left Footrest from Support Remove Stock Brake Pedal and Footrest Assembly 1. See Figure 3. At the right footrest, remove the retaining ring (1) clevis pin (2), footrest (3) and spring washer (4). Discard all hardware but save footrest for installation. 2. Remove the exhaust to access the brake rod. Follow the instructions in the appropriate Service Manual. 3. Remove brake rod (5) from brake pedal and master cylinder bell crank. Discard brake rod INSTALLATION Install Forward Control Brake Pedal and Footrest Assemblies 1. See Figure 5 and Figure 6. At the lower front of the right frame downtube, remove the two screws securing the J- clip (B) to the frame. Discard the screws but save J-clip for installation. 2. Install the other end of the brake rod into the brake pedal assembly (8). Tighten to 84-144 in-lbs (9.5-16.3 Nm) . NOTE Assemble the brake pedal and footpeg clevis onto the footrest support bracket (as described in the next step) prior to mounting the support bracket to the frame. This will allow easier installation of the footrest mount clevis retaining ring (installed to grooved end of footrest mount clevis). 3. Slide the brake pedal (8) onto footrest mount clevis (11) then slide clevis into footrest/brake pedal support bracket (9). Align hole in the clevis with hole in the support bracket and install screw (6). Tighten the screw to 18-22 ft-lbs (24.4-29.9 Nm) . 4. Install the footrest mount clevis retaining ring (18) to the groove at the end of the footpeg clevis. 5. Position the J-clip (from Step 1) against the frame aligning the mounting holes. Mount the footrest/brake pedal support bracket (9) and J-clip to frame using the new screws (3). Tighten the bracket to 45-50 ft-lbs (61.1- 67.9 Nm) . 6. Obtain the brake rod (15) from kit and thread one end into the master cylinder bell crank. Tighten to 120-180 in-lbs (13.6-20.3 Nm) . 7. Install footpeg on clevis with spring washer (2). Make sure spring washer is positioned inside clevis (11) with the square edge toward the inside. Align holes and push clevis pin (7) from top down through hole in clevis. Secure clevis pin using the new retaining ring (17). 8. Install exhaust following the instructions in the appropriate Service Manual. Install Forward Control Shift Lever Assembly

2007 Ural Models Gear Up Patrol Tourist Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Ural) by admin on 02-11-2010

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Font Brake Control Lever Clutch control lever: When the clutch lever is squeezed, the engine is disengaged from the gearbox. When the lever is released, the engine and gearbox are engaged. WARNING: MAKE SURE FINGERS ARE NOT POSITIONED BETWEEN HAND CONTROL LEVERS AND HANDLEBAR GRIPS OR OPERATION OF VEHICLE COULD BE IMPAIRED . WARNING: B EFORE STARTING ENGINE , ALWAYS SHIFT TRANSMISSION TO NEUTRAL TO PREVENT ACCIDENTAL MOVEMENT WHICH COULD CAUSE POSSIBLE DAMAGE TO MOTORCYCLE AND PERSONAL INJURY . Caution: Always engage the clutch release lever when shifting. Serious internal damage may result to the transmission if the clutch release lever is not engaged. Front brake control lever: When the lever is squeezed, the front wheel brake is actuated. The front brake should be used together with rear brake. When the brake lever is squeezed, the stop signal lights are switched on. 19 Kickstart lever : Designed to start the engine. Upon kicking the lever the crankshaft is actuated through the gearbox. The lever is returned to its initial position by the spring inside the gearbox. Gear shift lever: This is a heal shift type of lever. To shift up from a low gear to a high gear the rear arm(heal shift) is pressed. To shift down from a high gear to a low gear the from arm is depressed. Since the heel-toe shift lever is short-coupled, it is much easier to shift up using the heal shift, and to shift down using the toe shift with the ball of your foot. The neutral gear is between the 1st and 2nd gears. It is important to shift smoothly with a constant force, and not to kick the gear shift pedal. Serious damage may result to the shifting mechanism if the gear shift pedal is kicked, rather than pressed. NOTE: The neutral lamp will illuminate when the transmission is in neutral. (see “Starting the Engine”). Gear Shift Foot Pedal Kick Lever 20 Parking Brake Sidecar Drive Lever Rear Brake Pedal Parking Brake: Used to hold the bike when parked. To engage, press the rear brake pedal, push down and twist the parking brake lever counter clockwise. Sidecar drive engagement lever: Used to engage the drive axle to the sidecar wheel on the Patrol and Gear Up model motorcycles. WARNING: Never engage sidecar drive on concrete or hard surface. Severe damage to drivetrain will result if the sidecar drive is engaged on pavement. Rear brake lever: Actuates the rear brakes on both the motorcycle and sidecar. WARNING: DO NOT APPLY EITHER BRAKE STRONGLY ENOUGH TO LOCK THE WHEELS BECAUSE THIS MAY CAUSE POSSIBLE LOSS OF CONTROL OF THE MOTORCYCLE . ALWAYS USE BOTH BRAKES . NEVER STOP WITH FRONT OR REAR BRAKE ONLY . WARNING: AN IMPROPERLY ADJUSTED REAR BRAKE PEDAL COULD INTERFERE WITH PROPER REAR BRAKE OPERATION RESULTING IN POOR BRAKE ACTION

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HARLEY DAVIDSON SPORTSTER ALUMINUM SHIFT LINKAGE KITS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 10-03-2011

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INSTALLATION 1. See Figure 1. Remove stock capscrews (4) and stock shifter rod (2). Discard stock capscrews. 2. See Figure 2 and Table 2. Loosen the lock nuts (5) and turn the rod ends on the new aluminum shifter rod (1) to match the length of the stock shifter rod. 3. See Figure 2 and Table 2. Slide longer capscrew (3) through the front rod end of new shifter rod (1). Place rod on the outside of the lever assembly. Thread capscrew (3) into the lever assembly. 4. Slide shorter capscrew (2) through the rear rod end of new shifter rod (1). Place rod on the outside of the transmission shift lever. Thread capscrew (2) into the transmission shift lever. 5. Tighten capscrews to 10-15 ft-lbs (13.6-20.3 N-m) . 6. Firmly tighten the lock nuts (5) against the rod ends to 20- 24 ft-lbs (27.1-32.5 Nm) . 1 4 2 4 3 is05394 1. Lever assembly 2. Shifter rod 3. Transmission shift lever 4. Capscrew Figure 1. Shift Linkage Components

HARLEY DAVIDSON DYNA AND SPORTSTER Chrome Front Wheel Spacers INSTALLATION ISNTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Block motorcycle underneath frame so front wheel is raised off the ground. 2. See Figure 1. Remove the upper (1) and lower (2) brake caliper mounting bolts and brake caliper(s) (3). Support caliper(s) using a rubber bungee cord. Be careful not to scratch fender paint. NOTES Do not operate front brake lever with the front wheel removed or the caliper piston may be forced out of piston bores. Reseating the piston requires disassembly of the caliper. Prior to removal, make note of existing left and right spacer location. The new spacers will be installed in the locations. 3. See Figure 3. On left side of wheel, remove axle nut (D), lockwasher (E) and washer (F). Perform the following: 4. Sportster and Dyna (except FXDWG) See Figure 2. Loosen the pinch bolt nut (1) and pull the the axle (2) free. Remove wheel and spacers. Leave bearing(s) in place. Discard spacers. 3 1 2 is04469 1. Brake caliper mounting bolt, long (top) 2. Brake caliper mounting bolt, short (bottom) 3. Brake caliper Figure 1. Caliper Mounting Bolts (Left Side) Dyna and Sportster 3 1 2 is04470 1. Pinch bolt nut 2. Axle 3. Pinch bolt Figure 2. Front Wheel Mounting (Dyna and Sportster Except FXDWG-Right Side) 5. See Figure 3. Obtain the new right (1) and left (2) chrome spacers from kit and install. 6. Apply a light coat of ANTI-SEIZE LUBRICANT (Harley- Davidson Part Number 98960-97) to the axle.
7. Place wheel between sliders and install axle. Verify that axle spacers on right and left side are properly installed. 8. See Figure 3. Install the washer (F), lockwasher (E) and nut (D) onto threaded end of axle (A). 9. In order to properly align the front fork, perform the fol- lowing: a. On the right side of the wheel, insert a 7/16 inch drill bit through the hole in the axle. While holding axle stationary, tighten axle nut to 50-55 ft-lbs (61.0-74.6 Nm) . b. Pull fork leg so that it just contacts drill bit. Tighten according to the following: c. Refer to Figure 2. Tighten the Axle Pinch Bolt Nut to 25-30 ft-lbs (33.9-40.7 Nm) . d. Remove drill bit from axle hole. 10. Follow instructions in Service Manual and install brake caliper to the sliders noting the following: •Loosely install long bolt to the top hole on fork leg. Install the short mounting bolt to the bottom hole and tighten to 28-38 ft-lb (38.0-51.5 Nm) . •Final tighten top bolt to 28-38 ft-lbs (38.0-51.5 Nm) . 11. Repeat Step 10 to install brake caliper on opposite side of wheel. After servicing brakes and before moving motorcycle, pump brakes to build brake system pressure. Insufficient pressure can adversely affect brake performance, which could result in death or serious injury. (00279a) 12. Pump brake lever to move pistons out until they contact both brake pads. Verify piston location against pads

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HARLEY DAVIDSON SPORTSTER CHROME PRIMARY TRIM COVER KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 08-03-2011

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INSTALLATION To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect negative (-) battery cable before proceeding. (00048a) 1. Refer to the Owner’s Manual and follow the instructions given to remove the seat and disconnect the negative battery cable at the engine crankcase. Retain all seat mounting hardware. 2. Models with mid foot controls: Remove the two screws retaining the left-side rider footrest and mounting bracket assembly. 3. All models: See Figure 1. Note the installed orientation of the transmission foot shift lever to aid in re-assembly. Use a 1/4 in. hex key to remove the socket head screw (5) holding the shift lever (3 or 4) to the transmission shift lever shaft (1). Remove the lever and rubber washer (2). 4 1 5 3 2 5 is 01929 1. Transmission shift lever shaft 2. Rubber washer 3. Foot shift lever (mid control) 4. Shift lever (forward control) 5. Socket head screw Figure 1. Shift Lever Removal 4 2 3 1 is 01930 Figure 2. Primary Cover Mounting Screw Locations NOTE Remove ONLY the four screws shown. 4. See Figure 2 and Figure 3. Remove and discard the primary cover hex-socket head screws from the four locations shown. 5. Refer to CLUTCH CONTROL: REMOVAL: CLUTCH CABLE-LOWER in the Service Manual to remove the clutch cable at the lower end with these exceptions: •The negative battery cable has already been disconnected, and •On mid-control models, the rider footrest has already been removed. 6. See CLUTCH LEVER AND CLUTCH CABLE-UPPER to remove the clutch cable at the upper end. NOTE Be careful not to scratch the paint on the frame tube when removing the clips. 7. Carefully remove the two vinyl-coated spring steel clips that retain the clutch cable to the frame downtube. 8. Obtain all of the items from the kit. 9. See Figure 2. Insert a chrome screw (3), from the outside, through the hole in location 3 on the chrome trim cover. Place the thinner steel spacer (4) onto the threads of the screw from the inside of the trim cover. 10. Use a 5/32 inch hex key on the screw head, and grip one of the Nylon keeper washers (6) with a pliers. Install the washer onto the screw until several threads extend from the washer, capturing the screw and spacer on the trim cover. 11. Insert the remaining chrome screws, from the outside, through the holes in locations 1, 2 and 4 on the chrome trim cover. Place a thicker steel spacer (5) onto the threads of each screw from the inside of the trim cover. 12. Thread a Nylon keeper washer onto each of the screws as described in Step 10. 13. Position the trim cover over the primary cover with the transmission shift lever shaft extending through the clearance hole (A) in the chrome trim cover. 14. Thread one of the chrome screws into the mating primary cover mounting hole for several threads, taking care not to cross-thread the screw in the hole. 15. Carefully start the remaining screws partially into their mating holes. Continue tightening the screws in turn

HARLEY DAVIDSON HEEL/TOE SHIFT LEVER KITS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 18-03-2011

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INSTALLATION NOTE The shift levers in these kits have opposite counterbored screw holes. When the toe and heel levers are positioned correctly, the socket head cap screws will be installed from the bottom of both levers. 1. Before removing the original shift levers, note the orientation. You may want to replace them at the same position and angle. NOTE The original equipment shift levers may have the socket head screws that secure the shift levers to the splined shifter shaft installed from the top or bottom, depending on your model motorcycle. 2. See Figure 1. Remove the original equipment shifter pegs (A) and retain for re-attachment to the new levers if desired. Remove the socket head screws (3) that clamp the shift levers onto the splined shifter shaft. Remove the original equipment shift levers. 3. First, position the toe shifter lever (1) so the counterbored screw hole is at the bottom. Slide the toe shifter lever onto the splined shifter shaft and position to the desired angle, aligning the screw hole with the notch on the shaft. 4. Install the heel shift lever (2) with the counterbore at the bottom. 5. Add a few drops of Loctite® 243 (blue) to the socket head screws (3), and insert the screws into the counterbored holes. Tighten to 24-26 ft-lbs (32-35 Nm) . 6. Install the shifter pegs onto the new shift levers. If using the original pegs, place a few drops of Loctite blue onto the screw threads prior to installation. Tighten the shifter peg screws. 7. Check for proper operation and clearance

2007 Ural Retro Model Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Ural) by admin on 02-11-2010

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Kickstart lever : Designed to start the engine. Upon kicking the lever the crankshaft is actuated through the gearbox. The lever is returned to its initial position by the spring inside the gearbox. Gear shift lever: This is a heal shift type of lever. To shift up from a low gear to a high gear the rear arm(heal shift) is pressed. To shift down from a high gear to a low gear the from arm is depressed. Since the heel-toe shift lever is short-coupled, it is much easier to shift up using the heal shift, and to shift down using the toe shift with the ball of your foot. The neutral gear is between the 1st and 2nd gears. It is important to shift smoothly with a constant force, and not to kick the gear shift pedal. Serious damage may result to the shifting mechanism if the gear shift pedal is kicked, rather than pressed urn indicator lamp indicates that the turn signals are activated. Alternator fault indicator lamp , indicates that the charging system is malfunctioning and needs immediate attention. Gearbox neutral lamp indicates that the gearbox is in neutral. Head lamp high beam indicator , indicates that the headlight high beam is activated. Speedometer is on the dash board, with trip and total odometer. The trip odometer is reset to zero by rotating knob (Fig.1, # 3) counterclockwise. Note that the odometer reads in kilometers

HONDA GL1800 DRIVER BOARDS WITH HEEL/ TOE SHIFT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Place the motorcycle on its centerstand. Remove the stock foot pegs and mounts (four 6mm wrench size allen screws) 2. Beginning on the left or shift side remove the rubber cover from the shift pedal. (Some WD-40 or armor all will make it much easier). Using a hacksaw cut the retaining knob off the end of the shift pedal as shown in photo #1A. Don’t worry should you ever remove the floorboards you can replace the rubber and glue it in place. 3. Install the left floorboard assembly being sure the fork in the toe-heel shifter goes over the shift pedal. Install the two original bolts and snug them. 4. Locate the black plastic shift bushing (see photo #2A) notice the set screw on the side of the bushing slide the bushing onto the shift pedal with the small diameter going on first and engaging the fork on the toe-heel shifter. The shoulder of the bushing should be touching but not putting a side force on the fork. Rotate the bushing so that the set screw is at 9 o’clock tighten the set screw. Locate the rubber cap provided and install it over the end of the stock shift pedal. (See photo #2B). 5. Next rock or pivot the floorboard assembly up and down noting the play between the bolts and bolt holes. Position the floorboard half way between these two extremes then tighten the bolts securely. Check for clearance between the bottom of the toe shifter and the floorboard (min. 1/8″) by pushing the toe shifter down until it stops while rotating the rear wheel (see photo 2C). If there is not sufficient clearance loosen the two mounting screws and pivot the floorboard to obtain the1/8″ clearance and retighten the screws. If installing the heel shifter into one of the two optional forward mounting holes check for the 1/8″ clearance while rotating the rear wheel and up shifting. 6. On the right side remove the 12mm brake pedal mounting bolt, notice the punch mark on the pedal shaft that aligns with the slot in the pedal. The pedal MUST be re-installed in the same position. Pull the pedal outward and off the shaft. 7. See photo (3). On the bottom side of the footpad make a mark ¾” from the rear and outside edge as shown. Drill a ¼” hole thru the pedal at the mark. See photo (4) lay the brake pedal extension upside down on a bench and place the stock pedal into the opening as shown, while holding the two pieces firmly together and using the hole drilled earlier as a guide drill a ¼” hole thru the bottom of the pedal extension. Turn the two pieces over, using a needle nose pliers insert the ¼” bolt provided from the top down thru both pieces, install the lock nut provided and tighten securely. Carefully align the punch mark with the slot on the pedal and re-install the brake pedal (should the shaft slide inward you will need to remove the chrome side cover and hold the shaft outward using your finger as shown in photo (5A). Install the original 12mm bolt and tighten securely

MPS Electronic Engine Kill Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 27-10-2010

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blue wire should be connected to the normally open pole of the shift button. The Shift Button is a momentary type switch. The common pole of the shift button should be connected to a good ground and the normally open connects to the blue wire from the Electronic Engine Kill box. Electric Air Valve – The Electric Air Valve has two wires. These wires are interchangeable. One needs an ignition switched 12 volt power source. The other needs a ground signal when the shift button is depressed. The easiest way to do this is to locate the red and blue wires in the Electronic Engine Kill wire harness. Splice one Electric Air Valve wire into the red wire and splice the other Electric Air Valve wire into the blue. Once again soldering is the preferred method but you can use schotchlok splices. Setting Kill Time – Kill time is the amount of time the engine stays dead between gears during a shift. Generally the shorter the kill time the quicker the shift. The proper kill time will vary from bike to bike. Its generally better to start with to much kill time and work your way quicker. We generally start at around 75 ms. of kill time. The Kill Time is adjusted via a small potentiometer accessed through the grommet on the front of the unit. Using a small screwdriver Carefully turn the pot clockwise to the end of its travel. This is 100 ms of kill time. Now, carefully turn the pot screw counterclockwise to the end of its travel. This is 50 ms of kill time. Halfway in between is 75 ms. The pot only goes from 7 oclock to 5 oclock so don’t force it, they break easily! Testing The System – With no air in the system start the bike. Bring the rpm up to around 3000 rpm and push the shift button. You should hear a slight hesitation in the engine each time you depress the shift button. Once you establish that you have a engine kill when pushing the shift button remove the clevis pin from the shift cylinder and extend the shaft to the end of its travel. Air up the shifter to 120 psi. We also have onboard compressor kits available to conveniently fill the air tank on the fly or high pressure CO2 systems that can shift hundreds of times without refilling. With the engine off and the key on push the shift button

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