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HARLEY-DAVIDSON LARGE LED SILVER BULLETS INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 29-01-2011

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PROCEDURE STEP 1*Remove the stock turn signal fixtures and cut the wires in a convenient and inconspicuous splice location. STEP 2**Place the split lock and flat washers on to the hollow bolts as shown in PIC. 1. Run the power leads through the hollow bolts and assemble the Silver Bullets to their mounts. See PIC. 2. STEP 3*Install the new Silver Bullet assemblies to the Mount Bar on the motorcycle. The stock 10-24 x 1/2″ socket head screws are to be re-used. PROCEDURE fOR AMBER DUAL CIRCUIT (fRONT WIRING) LED SILVER BULLET WIRE COLOR CODING IS AS fOLLOWS: Black — Ground Blue — Running Lights (power) Violet — Turn Signal (power) STEP 1 Turn key on. Test OEM stock front turn signal wiring with test light. STEP 2 Locate and mark the running light (power) wire. STEP 3 Individually activate the turn signals and mark the side-appropriate wires. STEP 4 Use the color code above to solder/connect the corresponding Silver Bullet wires to your Join like colored wires on the Silver Bullets and the bike’s turn signal harnesses. Insulate your connections. Route the wires safely out of harms way and tie the wires in place with nylon cable ties. 1995-EARLIER MODELS With a test light, probe the two black wires leading to each of the stock front turn signals. On each side, the wire that has power only when the turn signal button is depressed is the turn signal positive wire. The wire that is “hot” constantly when the key is on is the running light wire. Connect the violet wire from the Silver Bullet to the bikes turn signal wire, and the blue Silver Bullet wire to the bikes running light wire. Connect the black wire from the Silver Bullet to a known good chassis ground (bare metal). Insulate your connections. Route the wires neatly out of harms way and secure them with nylon cable ties. When replacing stock incandescent turn signals with LED lights, it may be necessary to add a load equalizer to make the turn signals flash properly. NOTE: When using Amber Dual Circuit Silver Bullets in rear applications, blue running lights (power) wire will not be used. To avoid corrosion, tape off bare wire. Test the lights for run and flash functions. If they light, but do not flash in the turn mode, add the load equalizer. The load equalizer has one black and two violet wires. The violet wires are not side specific. NOTE: LED Turn signals require the use of one Load Equalizer PER PAIR OF LED TURN SIGNALS to achieve the proper flash function. It is perfectly normal for the equalizer to get warm (about 140 degrees) during turn signal operation.

Victory Kingpin Rear LED Turn Signal Kit Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Victory) by admin on 31-10-2010

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Step 1 •Remove rider’s seat, strut covers, and passenger seat (if applicable) •Separate wiring harness connector for rear lights •Remove screws from each side of fender and plastic connectors from plastic inner fender •Carefully remove the fender by gentle prying outward and upward on one side to clear the mounting points, then the other side •Set aside on a flat and smooth surface to protect the fender’s finish Step 2 •Turn the rear fender assembly upside down on a stable and covered/protected surface to prevent damaging the fender/paint •Remove the metal piece that covers the rear wiring harness area (10mm socket) and unscrew the wire junction box (5mm Allen wrench) •Disconnect the turn signals from the stock wiring harness and unscrew the Allen bolts holding them in place (5mm Allen) •Enlarge the center mounting hole in the inner fender of the turn signal mounting location with a 3/8ths metal drill bit (see picture below). Victory Kingpin Rear LED Turn Signal Kit Installation Guide
Be extremely careful to drill slowly and make sure to avoid contact with the sides of the fender! Ensure that the surface area where the holes have been made are smooth. This will allow for a flush fit with the turn signal mounting blocks. If not, use a small file or other suitable tool to fix it. Don’t be concerned if your new hole extends into the other holes. Step 3 •Prior to installing the silver bullets, choose which style bezel you prefer, visor or visor-less. Both styles are included with amber LEDs only. Red LED silver bullets come standard with visor-less bezels, however visored bezels can be purchased separately. •Place the fender upright on a protected and secure surface. Insert the mounting blocks into place flush with the surface of the fender. They will only fit one way and are not interchangeable. Place a small amount of loc-tite on the threads of the hollow bolt. Hold the silver bullet LED light in place on the mounting block and thread the wire through the holes, and hand tighten the hollow bolt from the inside of the fender. Once a proper alignment of the lights has been achieved, tighten them securely with a 9/16ths box end wrench. Step 4 •Run the wiring of the turn signals in an appropriate/desireable path to the stock wiring harness. Once the wires are run, cut any excess wire and install the bullet connectors (included) to the end of the wires as noted in the wiring advisory and continue with wiring as follows: 1. Silver bullet right rear PURPLE to stock wire BLUE with RED stripe 2. Silver bullet right rear BLACK to stock wire BLACK 3. Silver bullet left rear PURPLE to stock wire BLUE 4. Silver bullet left rear BLACK to stock wire BLACK Make sure that the connectors are firmly snapped in place and are covered with the stock rubber connector. Ensure that the preexisting dielectric grease isn’t completely wiped off/removed, it will ensure conductivity and corrosion resistance. Please note that the amber LED silver bullets are dual intensity, while the stock system is single intensity (turn signal only). If you wish to wire your silver bullets to also function as running lights, the blue wire from each silver bullet must be wired to a “constant-on”/power wire, such as the stock purple wire that connects to the license plate assembly. If you do not wish to wire your turn signals for dual intensity then the blue wires should be tied off

2007 HONDA SILVER WING Specifications / PRESS INFORMATION

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 18-02-2011

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Specifications Silver Wing ED-type Engine Type Liquid-cooled 4-stroke 8-valve DOHC parallel twin Displacement 582cm³ Bore x Stroke 72 x 71.5mm Compression Ratio 10.2 : 1 Max. Power Output 37kW / 7,000min-1 (95/1/EC) Max. Torque 54Nm / 5,500min-1 (95/1/EC) Idling Speed 1,300min-1 Oil Capacity 2.6 litres Fuel System Carburation PGM-FI electronic fuel injection Throttle Bore 32mm Aircleaner Dry, cartridge-type paper filter Fuel Tank Capacity 16 litres (including 3.5-litre reserve) Electrical System Ignition System Computer-controlled digital transistorised with electronic advance Ignition Timing 12° BTDC (idle) ~ 43° BTDC (8,250min-1) Sparkplug Type CR8EH-9 (NGK); U24FER9 (ND) Starter Electric Battery Capacity 12V / 11AH ACG Output 450W Headlights 12V, 55W x 1 (low) / 55W x 1 (high) Drivetrain Clutch Automatic; centrifugal Transmission V-Matic Final Reduction 6.016 Final Drive V-belt Belt Converter Ratios 2.1 ~ 0.85 Frame Type Centre backbone; steel tube 2/3 Chassis Dimensions (LxWxH) 2,275 x 770 x 1,430mm Wheelbase 1,595mm Caster Angle 28° 30′ Trail 105mm Turning Radius 2.9m Seat Height 740mm Ground Clearance 140mm Dry Weight 218kg (*229.6kg) Kerb Weight 242kg (F: 96.7kg; R: 145.3kg), *247kg (F: 98kg; R: 149kg) Max. Carrying Capacity 180kg Loaded Weight 386kg (F: 141.3kg; R: 244.7kg), *397.4kg (F: 145kg; R: 252.4kg) Suspension Type Front41mm telescopic fork, 120mm axle travel RearDual conventional dampers with 5-step spring preload adjustment, 115mm axle travel Wheels Type FrontU-section triple-spoke cast aluminium RearU-section triple-spoke cast aluminium Rim Size Front14M/C x MT2.75 Rear13M/C x MT4.50 Tyre Size Front120/80 14M/C (58S) Rear150/70 13M/C (64S) Tyre Pressure Front 200kPa Rear 225kPa Brakes Type Front256 x 5mm single disc with Combined 3-piston calliper, (*ABS) and sintered metal pads Rear240 x 6mm hydraulic disc with dual-piston calliper, (*ABS) and sintered metal pads * ABS Version All specifications are provisional and subject to change without notice.

Aprilia RSV4 Exhaust Systems Installation instructions

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Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 26-10-2010

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REMOVAL OF STOCK EXHAUST SYSTEM 1. 2. 5 Figure 3 Figure 4 Remove the metal collar and rubber damper from the stock muffler hanging bracket (Figure 3, 4). 3. 6 Unscrew the marked bolts and remove the plastic fasteners from the left and right side of the cowling (Figure 5, 6). 4. Figure 5 Figure 6 7 Unscrew the marked bolts and remove the lower part of the cowling (Figure 7). 5. Figure 7
8 Figure 8 Figure 9 Coat the bolt and interior of the metal clamp with spring hook whit Akrapovič anti-seize lead-free copper paste (black tube) and correctly install it onto the stock collector. Hand tighten the bolt (Figure 9, 10). WARNING: use anti-seize copper paste on bolt threads and interior of the metal clamp! 2. 1. Coat the bolt and interior of the metal clamp with Akrapovič antiseize lead-free copper paste (black tube) and correctly install it onto the link pipe (Figure 8). WARNING: use anti-seize copper paste on bolt threads and interior of the metal clamp

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HARLEY DAVIDSON STARTER SOLENOID REPAIR KIT

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 31-10-2010

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1. Remove, but do NOT discard, bolt washer 1 and 4 (fig. 1). 2. Remove, but do NOT discard, nut washer 2 (fig. 1). 3. Remove, but do NOT discard, nut washer 3 from shortest copper bolt on cap (fig. 1). 4. Gently remove solenoid cap. 5. IMPORTANT!: Snip wire 5 as close as possible to large copper bolt (fig. 2). 6. Discard old copper bolt and cap. 7. Replace old plunger 6 with new plunger provided in kit. 8. Guide small bolt 7 through hole in new cap as shown (fig. 3). 9. Solder cut wire 5 to new copper bolt terminal 8CAUTION!: Solder wire to terminal, so as not to interfere with contact of plunger to terminal. 10. Install new cap. 11. Re-assemble nuts, bolts and washers 1 2 3 4 as shown (fig. 1). Replace worn parts with those provided in kit.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON DETACHABLE QUARTER FAIRING AND DOCKING HARDWARE KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 10-03-2011

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Installation The rider’s safety depends upon the correct installation of this kit. Use the appropriate service manual procedures. If the procedure is not within your capabilities or you do not have the correct tools, have a Harley- Davidson dealer perform the installation. Improper installation of this kit could result in death or serious injury. (00333a) NOTE If your motorcycle has directional lights mounted on the upper fork bracket they must be relocated to the bottom fork bracket. Some models have front directional lights equipped with three wires, the third black wire is a ground wire. Check to determine how many wires are connected to the front directional lights and follow the following procedure that applies. Ifdirectional lights are not mounted on the upper fork bracket proceed to “ASSEMBLING FAIRING”. Relocating Two Wire Directional Lights 1. Support motorcycle on a center stand such that front wheel is raised slightly off the ground. 2. Remove fork tube pinch screw from right side of lower bracket. 3. Cut wires connected to right directional light about 2 in. away from directional light body. 4. Remove fork tube pinch screw from right side of upper fork bracket. (This is the screw that secures the right directional light.) 5. Install right directional light on right side of lower fork bracket using pinch screw removed in step 4. Install pinch screw removed in step 2 into right side of upper bracket. Tighten both pinch screws to 30-35 ft-lbs. 6. Repeat steps 1 through 5 to relocate left directional light. NOTE Fork tubes may slide downward within fork brackets. If this occurs, front fork tube extension above front fork upper bracket will have to be readjusted according to appropriate Service Manual procedures. 7. Connect the right directional light as follows: Strip approx. 5/16 in. of insulation from the wires cut in step 3. 8. Crimp solderless connectors from kit on two wires coming from motorcycle. 9. Split one end of the 2-conductor polarized wire from kit back about 2 in. and strip 5/16 in. of insulation from wire ends. 10. Slide a piece of shrink tubing from kit over each of the wire ends stripped in step 9 and crimp the wires into the terminals installed in step 8. Make sure you connect the silver and copper colored wires to like colored wires. NOTE Polarized wire is used in this application to ensure correct wiring. One wire is silver, one is copper colored. Wire colors of spliced wire must match wire color of original directional wire leads. 11. Cut polarized wires to the length required for connection to the wires at the relocated directional light. Make certain you leave enough slack in wires to allow routing the harness along the fork tube. 12. Split remaining end of the 2-conductor polarized wire from kit back about 2 in. and strip 5/16 in. of insulation from wire ends. 13. Slide heat shrink tubes over the two wire end. 14. Strip 5/16 in. of insulation from wires connected to directional light and connect like colored wires at directional light with connectors from kit. 15. Slide heat shrink tubing over connectors installed in steps 10 and 14. Activate shrink tubing with heat gun or hair dryer.

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2010 Toyota Motorsports/ TRD USA Contingency Award Program

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 29-09-2011

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To enroll in the program, complete the registration form included in the enclosed material and mail, fax or e-mail it to TRD per the instructions at the bottom of the form. Contact personnel are listed on the attached 2010 Contingency Award Guidelines sheets. These people are available to assist you throughout the year. Parts Ordering: If you are planning to order Toyota parts during 2010 you must supply us with your Visa or Master Card credit card number at the time you register in the program. There is a line on the registration form for this number. See the attached Parts Ordering Guidelines for detailed information on how to order parts. TRD is looking forward to working with each of you, and we wish you a very successful year with your racing program

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KTM 250F Timing Chain Tensioner Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 19-10-2010

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1) Remove OEM Tensioner: On some models including the 250F motors, it may be necessary to put the engine at TDC before proceeding. Check your manual. This is not the case on the 450 and 530 single cam motors. • Remove the outer cover plug. • Remove the large cover with copper washer. • Using needle nose pliers grab the end of the OEM tensioner and pull it outward. Be careful not to damage the aluminum port or face. • If the O-ring did not come out with the tensioner, carefully reach into the port and remove it without pushing it further into the engine. 2) Install new Tensioner: • To prepare the new tensioner, set the spring aside. Put the new tensioner in the collapsed position. (They are packaged and shipped in the collapsed position.) If you have extended it, rotate the assembly until the “top” on the piston is facing up. Then a light tap from the bottom will release the ratchet. This will now allow the plunger to be retracted to about 1- 13/16″ (46mm). • Install the O-ring over the tensioner body, keeping it outboard of the ridge as shown. • Slide the tensioner assembly with O-ring (without the spring), into the engine port. The end (with the hex-head spring hole) should only protrude from the engine about 1/32″ (.75mm). • Install the cover and tighten. The copper washer should be tight. • Insert the spring through the cover port. As it is slowly inserted, you may hear clicks as it pushes the plunger inward while ratcheting. • Install and tighten the plug against the spring. Note: some 250F engines have a one piece cap. Slide the spring into the tensioner far enough to hold it, then capture it with the cap and tighten. • Start the engine and carefully check for oil leaks. Adjustment will occur internally as it is needed. No further maintenance of the tensioner is required

Triumph Center Mount Oil Pressure Gauge with active oil light Installation

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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Remove the two hex head screws and spacers that secure the handlebars. Attach the oil pressure mounting bracket using the bolts removed earlier. It is not necessary to use the spacers as the bracket is the same thickness as the spacers that were removed. Make sure the oil pressure gauge bracket is clamped securely so that the handlebars cannot rotate. This part of the assembly is complete. Do not tighten the fitting mounted on the far side of the Swivel body. This fitting is designed to rotate and is sealed in place with Loctite 242 thread sealant. Over tightening will shear the threads resulting in destruction of the fitting. Remove oil pressure sending unit. Sit the copper crush washer aside for future use. The Swivel and Swivel Adaptor are supplied assembled. Remove the plug from the rear of the Swivel. Slip the crush washer removed earlier over the end of the Adaptor. There is an ‘O’-ring seal between the Adaptor and the Swivel, leaving the two assembled will prevent damage to the seal. Thread the Adaptor, with Swivel still attached, into the port from where the original sending unit was removed. With the use of a 5/32″ Allan wrench, reach inside the Swivel and tighten the Swivel against the Adaptor. Install the original oil pressure sending unit in the top port as shown using the new copper crush washer supplied. Use a wrench on both the Swivel and the original oil pressure sending unit to prevent imparting stress on the Adaptor to Swivel junction. Reinstall the 1/8 NPT plug in the end of the Swivel using with the use of a 3/16″ Allan wrench. Use Loctite 242 or equivalent semi-permanent thread sealant at this junction. Do not over tighten. Use a 3/16″ Allan wrench on the plug and an open end wrench on the Swivel to prevent imparting stress on the Adaptor to Swivel junction. Next, attach one end of the oil pressure line to the swivel fitting (located far side) by pushing the end of the tubing into the hole at the end of the fitting. FYI: these fittings are quick disconnect and self-clinching. They need only to be pushed in to connect. They will not slip out unless the ferrule at the end of the fitting is pushed back away from the tubing as the tubing is pulled from the fitting. Routing: Next, route the other end of the tube up along the frame and in front of the steering head over to the fitting in the gauge body. Avoid the exhaust pipes when routing the tubing. Push the end of the tube into the gauge fitting as was done at the swivel fitting at the other end of the tube. The tubing can be removed and cut to the length required by your routing. Make sure there is enough service loop remaining so

2003 Honda ST1300/A Wire Harness Inspection and Repair Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 21-04-2011

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REPAIR PROCEDURE Note: While completing this procedure DO NOT disconnect the 2-pin connector unless repair of the wire harness is required. 1. If not previously done, complete the ST1300/A #1 Service Bulletin before starting this procedure. 2. Remove the seats, left saddlebag, and left side panel by following the instructions in section 2 of the Service /l/Ianua/on pages 2-5 and 2-6. 3. Secure the centerstand assist handle out of the way. 4. Remove the rear shock adjuster support bar top bolt and move the bar out of the way. 5. Locate the ignition cord leading to the 2P connector and check the two black and white wires for chafing. |GNlTl6N con BLACK AND WHITE WIRES Chafing V I may OOCUF _ in this area 2-PIN CONNECTOR 2of6 – If the insulation is still intact and copper wire is not showing, proceed to the Preventative Measure section of this bulletin. – lf copper wire is showig, wrap the exposed area of the wire with a good quality electrical tape and proceed to the Preventative Mea- sure section of this bulletin. Preventative Measure: 1. Place the length of PVC split tubing around the ignition cord, butting up against the con- nector. Rotate the split toward the inside of the motorcycle. 2. Use good quality electrical tape to cinch the end of the PVC split tubing together (at the end that is touching the 2-pin connector), together. Secure the PVC split tubing to the ignition cord at the other end with electrical tape. 3. Secure the ignition cord and wire harness cord to the rear sub-frame with a commer- cially available wire band. The 2-pin connector should be routed behind and to the rear of where the rear shock adjuster support bar is located. ~! IR ARNESS C R COR W EH O D