crank ptoblems yz450 f

You search Auto repair manual PDF crank ptoblems yz450 f, if there are search results will appear below. If search results do not exist, please search by others keyword.



  crank ptoblems yz450 f Direct Download speed 5282 Kb/s

  crank ptoblems yz450 f Full Version speed 6162 Kb/s



Honda / Acura Crank Shaft Seal Kit installation

0

Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 17-11-2011

download
Due to the close proximity of transversely mounted engines to the shock tower, this essential tool is crucial for the
proper installation of Cam Shaft Oil Seals. Comes equipped with an exclusive expansion guide ensuring damage free installation. Applicable: Most Toyota 4 cylinder & some Mazda engines. This Special Bonus Kit was designed for the proper installation of Pulley Crank Shaft oil seals, situated within confined areas on most 4, 6 & 8 cylinder Toyota / Lexus, Nissan, Mitsubishi, Mazda and Infiniti engines. Application includes Cam Shaft oil seal installation of Toyota / Lexus 2.5L, 2.8L, 3.0L, 3.4L, 4.0L & 4.3L engines. The step bolts screw into the cam or crank shaft end. The press nut w/ washer allows for an even ressing force, seating the oil seal into the engine case every time

Incoming search terms:

TOYOTA Engine Intermittent No Crank/ No Start REPAIR

0

Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 11-10-2011

download
Some Highlander, Matrix, and RAV4 vehicles may intermittently exhibita”no crank”condition. The engine can usually be started after moving the shift lever to the Neutral position orby cycling the shift lever in and out of the Park position. Are vised neutral starts witch assembly is available to address this condition. Warranty Information OP CODE DESCRIPTION MODEL TIME OFP T1 T2 Highlander 0.9 Matrix 0.5 832131 R&RP ark/Neutral Position Switch Assembly RAV4 0.7 84540-42010 17 99 APPLICABLE WARRANTY •Thisrepairis covered under the Toyota Comprehensive Warranty. This warranty is in effect for 36 monthsor36,000 miles, whichever occurs first, from the vehicle’sin-service date. •Warranty application is limited to occurrence of the specified condition described in this bulletin.

Crankshaft Durability of Rover K-Series Engine: Comparison of ENGDYN Analysis with Dynamic Measurements

0

Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 17-11-2010

download
The Rover K-Series engine has now been in production for over 10 years, initially of 1.4 L capacity. Since then 1.1L, 1.6L, 1.8L and 1.8L VVC (Variable Valve Control) have been introduced with an accumulative build of two million engines since 1989. The 1.8L engine is also built under official licence for Lotus and Caterham, and also in the MGF motorsport series. The K-Series is an attractive buy due to its reduced cost and low weight, which is a necessity for sport cars. This report aims to validate Ricardo ENGDYN software with respect to Rover K-Series 1.8 Litre VVC crankshaft durability. The software will be used to output the behaviour of the crankshaft under as realistic conditions as possible. The oil film thickness and bearing load characteristics of the crankshaft through the running range of the engine will be compared to results obtained from in-house software. The torsional and bending vibration output from ENGDYN will then be compared with results obtained from dynamic measurements. Finally, the crank stress and durability results from ENGDYN will be compared to strain gauge measurements at comparative points on the crankshaft. ENGDYN is a computer program used for analysing the dynamics of the engine, and in particular the crankshaft and its interaction with the cylinder block. In this analysis the software will be used to predict the time-domain response of the 3-dimensional vibration of the crankshaft coupled to the block by way of a non-linear oil film. When this loading and motion has been calculated the software can perform a fast Fourier transform to break down the time-domain response into its corresponding frequencies. This allows the results to be post-processed in the frequency domain. 2 Method of Analysis 2.1 Engine Specifications Configuration: in-line 4 Fuel: Gasoline Cylinder bore: 80 mm Piston stroke: 89.3 mm Swept volume: 1.8L Crankpin Peak Power: 107 KW @ 7000 rpm Peak Torque: 174 N/m @ 4500 rpm Engine running range: 750-7200 rpm 2.2 Component Modelling 2.2.1 Crankshaft To perform the analysis within ENGDYN two crankshaft models were created. These included a complete stiffness representation of the crank (excluding the crank nose hub and the flywheel), and a detailed model of the crank from main bearing 4 to main bearing 5, with mesh density increased around the fillets. ENGDYN can however perform crank analysis of any portion of the crank as long as the model incorporates at least two main journal bearings. Features such as bolt holes and oil drilling were omitted on both models, which were meshed using solid tetrahedral elements

Incoming search terms:

Corolla & Matrix 2005 – 2006 1ZZ-FE ENGINE NO START OR EXTENDED CRANK CONDITION

0

Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 29-05-2011

Download
Some 2005 and 2006 model year Corolla and Matrix vehicles equipped with a 1ZZ–FE engine may exhibit a “no start” or “extended crank” condition. This may be caused by insufficient fuel pressure after the vehicle has been parked for a period of time. The fuel pump assembly manufacturing process has been improved to correct this condition. Applicable Vehicles S 2005 – 2006 model year Corolla and Matrix (2WD) vehicles equipped with the
1ZZ–FE engine. Parts Information PREVIOUS PART NUMBER 77020–02180 77144–04010 77169–02050 CURRENT PART NUMBER Same Same Same PART NAME Fuel Suction w/Pump & Gauge Tube Assembly Fuel Pump Gauge etainer
Fuel Suction Tube Set Gasket

Incoming search terms:

2003 Ducati ST4s Timing Belt Adjustment

0

Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 31-10-2010

download
This instruction on cam belt adjustment starts after you remove the fairing pieces. Plan on an hour to remove these. Since you are performing your own service, buying Ducati belts may not be that expensive. There may be another belt source, but I have not confirmed this for the 996 engine of the 02-03 ST4s. Fig 1 – ST4s ready for belt adj./ repl. Fig 2 – Crank tool installed. See dwg. 1) Ensure maximum of ½ tank of gas. Fuel will leak into the charcoal canister, then onto the floor if the tank is over half full and the tank is tilted up on its hinge. So put the tank up on its hinge. 2) Remove spark plugs. Cover sparkplug wells with boots or rags. This is a great time to toss out those Champions for a set of NGK DCPR8E’s. 3) Remove the front shield from the horizontal cylinder head. 4) Remove crankshaft cover on Riders LH side and insert crank tool. A crank tool can be made by following the drawing at the end of this document. See Fig 2 above. The flat head screws used are kind of soft so beware on their removal. 5) Remove oil pressure sending unit cable and remove oil sending unit. No oil should pour out. 6) Remove battery and remove bolts fastening battery box to engine/frame. You can let the battery box dangle or partially support it via a bungee cord. Be careful of the cable on the ground of the ECU. By dangling the battery box excess stress could be placed on this cables connector and you don’t want to troubleshoot an intermittent electrical issue. 7) Remove cam belt covers. The two covers over the cams are real easy. The center piece is removed by pulling it down. You may have to move some hoses and cables out Timing belt adj. doc 1
of the way because it is a tight fit. Removing the oil pressure sending unit gave clearance for the removal. Fig 1 shows bike ready to be worked on. On the Rider’s LH is a window on the case cover. Using a flashlight to illuminate the area, marks can be rotated into view using the engine turning tool. There are two marks denoting the TDC of each of the cylinders. When a mark in the window aligns with the pointer, look at the crank driving pulley on the Rider’s RH of the engine. If the driving pulley’s mark is aligned with the pointer on the engine case, you are at TDC horizontal cylinder. If the pulley mark and the pointer on the engine do not align, rotate the engine until the mark in the window on the Rider’s LH side case cover aligns as well as the pulley’s mark and the engine’s pointer. Fig 3 shows the engine pulley and pointer. You can check that the horizontal piston is at TDC by inserting a welding rod into the spark plug well and touch the top of the piston with it to sense its position. Timing marks on cam pulleys are clearly stamped on all four pulleys. When the crank driving pulley aligns with its corresponding pointer on the engine case and the marks on the pulleys align with their corresponding marks on both cylinders, you are in position for belt adjustment and replacement

Incoming search terms:

1933 AJS 33- 7 OHC Trophy Owners Manual

0

Filed Under (AJS) by admin on 31-10-2010

download
the cylinder head can then be lifted up and off. There is no Spigot or washer on the Cylinder Barrel, hut the Head must he lifted high enough to clear the two Cylinder Head studs. If the Cylinder Barrel is removed do not prise this from (he Crank-case but place the palms of the hands round the finning and rock the Cylinder from side to side and when it starts to leave the crank-case lift upwards. Do not let the connecting rod fall heavily against the mouth of the Crank-case or the crank-case face will be damaged. When removing the Piston, only withdraw one Gudgeon Pin Circlip with the special pliers provided and then either push the Gudgeon Pin out from the opposite side or insert a screw-driver inside the Gudgeon Pin and bear the screw-driver to one side and turn the Pin slowly out of the Piston Bosses. The Gudgeon Pin is a sliding fit in the Piston and Small End. When the Piston is removed either remember the correct original position indicated by the remaining Circlip, or take a sharp instrument and make a mark on the inside of the piston to indicate front and back ; be sure to replace the Piston in its original position, For the removal of the Valves we list a special tool costing 5s. 9d. Part No. XB3340; and for Valve Grinding a Small Tool costing 1s. 6d. Part No. XB.3360. The accompanying illustration shows the method of operation of both the valve extractor and the valve grinding tool; although the Cylinder Head shown does not of course belong to a Camshaft Model the operation is similar. For portability the valve extractor is made to fold. Be careful to see that the portion of the toot which depresses the valve spring collar is central before compressing the spring, otherwise it is almost impossible to remove the split cones. An important factor to watch when replacing the valve springs is that the collars are replaced underneath the valve springs. Whilst the cylinder head is dismantled remove the oil feed nipples to the valve guides to ascertain that these are clear; the inlet nipple, it will be noticed, is purposely restricted with a disc, so be careful to see that these nipples are replaced correctly.

HARLEY DAVIDSON SOFTAIL FRONT SPOILER KITS INSTALLATION MANUAL

0

Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 09-03-2011

download
This instruction sheet references Service Manual information. A Service Manual for your model motorcycle is required for this installation and is available from a Harley-Davidson Dealer. Kit Contents See Figure 2 and Table 1. INSTALLATION 1. Position the vehicle on a motorcycle lift table. To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, remove maxi-fuse before proceeding. (00251a) 2. Refer to the Service Manual and follow the instructions given to remove the Maxi® Fuse. 3. Raise the vehicle on the lift table to allow access to the lower front portion of the frame. 2008+ 2007 7 8 11 3 3 4 4 12 5 5 1 1 9 2 2 10 6 6 9 9 11 13 is02652c 8. 1. Two-pin voltage regulator connector (2007 only) Voltage regulator 2. 9. Voltage regulator attaching screws (2) Cable strap (2 for 2007, 1 for 2008 and later) 10. 3. Lower voltage regulator cover (2007 only) Voltage regulator bracket 4. 11. Bracket screw to engine crankcase (2) Oxygen sensor connector 12. 5. Crank position sensor connector (2007 only) Voltage regulator caddy 6. 13. Voltage regulator caddy cover Horn connectors (some 2008 and later models) 7. Four-pin voltage regulator connector (2007 only) Figure 1. Original Equipment Voltage Regulator  NOTE For 2007 models: The ground wire on the voltage regulator must be re-attached at the original location when re-installing the voltage regulator to ensure adequate ground. 4. For ALL models: See Figure 1. Remove and discard the voltage regulator caddy cover (6) from the regulator bracket (3) and caddy (5). For 2007 models: In addition, remove the lower voltage regulator cover (10). 5. Remove and retain the hex socket head screw (4) at the top left of the bracket For 2007 models: In addition, disconnect the ground wire. Free the cable straps (9) from the regulator bracket, beneath the regulator. 6. Remove the two hex socket head screws with washers (2) retaining the voltage regulator to the bracket. Remove and save the regulator, but discard the screws. 7. Remove and retain the screw (4) at the top right of the regulator bracket. Remove the bracket from the engine. 8. For 2008 and later models: Free the strap (9) that ties the jiffy stand wiring to the voltage regulator bracket. Unfasten the three-way jiffy stand sensor connector and the two-way crank position sensor connector [79] (12) from the T-studs on the back of the regulator bracket (3). Discard the bracket. Disconnect both plugs from the back of the voltage regulator (1). For 2007 models: Unfasten the four-way (7) and two-way (8) voltage regulator connectors from the T-studs on the back of the regulator bracket (3), and discard the bracket. Disconnect the voltage regulator (1) at both connectors. 9. For 2008 and later models: Unclip the two-way O 2 (oxygen) sensor electrical connector [138] (11) from the voltage regulator caddy (5). For 2007 models: Unfasten the two-way crank position sensor connector [79] (12) from the voltage regulator caddy (5). Remove the caddy from the vehicle frame. a. For 2007 models: Unclamp the bottom of the caddy from the engine mount spacers. b. For ALL models: Unhook the top clips from around the tabs on the front of the engine casting. Remove the original equipment (O.E.) caddy from the vehicle frame, and discard it.

Incoming search terms:

Honda CBR F4 or F4I 600cc Engine PE-ECU-1 System INSTALLATION

0

Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 05-01-2012

download
The PE-ECU-1 can be installed on virtually any 1,2,4,6 or 8 cylinder even-firing engine that requires fuel injection and/or ignition control. All of the functions of the ECU can be adjusted by using a laptop or PC running Windows. The following describes the basic requirements for using the system with a Honda 600cc F4 or F4I motorcycle engine. Please refer to the User’s Manual for a more in-depth description. Input Sensors The stock Honda F4 and F4I crank position sensors can be used with the PE-ECU-1 engine control system, provided the engine controller is configured for a 2- wire variable reluctance sensor. The configuration for the input is handled at the factory via a set of board jumpers. If the type of crank sensor should ever be changed, please contact PE for support on this issue. The stock Honda crank sensor should be wired according to the following: • Solid Yellow Wire – Pin 34 on ECU • Yellow with White Stripe (GND) – Pin 25 on ECU Failure to wire the sensor in this way may result in an engine that misfires and/or has incorrect ignition timing. The stock Honda trigger wheel cannot be used with the PE-ECU-1 system due to the differences in the number and spacing of the teeth. The PE-ECU-1 must be provided with a 12-1 pulse-train, correctly phased with TDC #1 according to Figure 1

Incoming search terms:

MODEL 8100 HID/ HALOGEN MOTORCYCLE HEADLIGHT INSTALLATION

0

Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 29-11-2010

download
1) Remove seat. 2) Refer to service manual to locate the following wires: An ignition signal that has power while the ignition is in the “ON” position. Terminal 30 on start relay . A “CRANK” signal (start signal) that has power while the starter motor is being activated. Terminal 86 on start relay . 3) Locate a mounting position for the module that will fit in front of or next to the battery. DO NOT MOUNT the module until all connections to the module have been made. 4) Verify the operation of the ignition and crank signals using the voltmeter or test light. Disconnect battery and make the following connections: • Connect the Blue wire from the lamp module to the ignition feed wire Terminal 30 on start relay . • Connect the Grey wire from the lamp module to the starter crank feed Terminal 86 on start relay . • Connect the Red wire from the module to one end of the fuse harness provided in the kit. • Crimp a ring terminal to the other end of the fuse harness (for connection the POSITIVE battery terminal) . • Crimp a ring terminal to the Black wire from the module. This will need to be routed to the NEGATIVE terminal of the battery • Do not in any way (lengthened or shortened) . Ensure that the ballast is close enough to the lamp to use the length of cable provided. 5) Securely mount ballast in chosen location. Plug the 2 wire sealed connector (RED AND BLACK 16 AWG WIRES) to the ballast. Route the Red and Black wires along the frame, and follow the harness under the fuel tank (recommended) to the battery compartment. Connect the Orange wire from the lamp module to the red wire from the ballast using connector. Crimp ring terminal to black wire coming from the ballast, and connect to the NEGATIVE battery terminal. • IT IS NOT RECOMMENDED THAT THE BALLAST BE MOUNTED IN CLOSE PROXIMITY TO ECU OR FUEL INJECTION WIRING. • Do not mount near sources of high heat (i.e. Cylinder head or exhaust manifold) . • Do not mount in a location where there is a possibility of mechanical interference from moving parts (i.e. Steering components or linkage) . • There is a 3-foot length of cable provided for connection between the BALLAST and the HID LAMP. This cable MUST NOT be modified in any way (lengthened or shortened) . Ensure that the ballast is close enough to the lamp to use the length of cable provided

Harley-Davidson Softail Conversion Kit Installation Instructions

0

Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 02-12-2010

download
1. Place the motorcycle on the lift. 2. Place a suitable Jack under the Frame of the Motorcycle and tie down securely. 3. Remove Drain Plug from Primary Cover Assembly and drain oil. 4. Slide Rubber Boot off of the Clutch Cable Adjuster. Loosen and back the Jam nut away from the Clutch Cable Adjuster. Move Clutch Cable Adjuster towards the Jam Nut to introduce free play in the Clutch Lever. 5. Remove the fasteners that secure the seat. Remove seat. 6. Disconnect negative Battery Terminal. 7. Remove the Saddle Bags. And their hardware. If equipped. 8. Loosen Muffler Clamp on both Mufflers and other attaching hardware. Remove and discard both Mufflers. 9. Loosen the 4 exhaust stud nuts and save. Remove and discard head pipes and exhaust gaskets. 10. Disconnect the Rear Lamp Wiring Harness. 11. Remove any fasteners from Electrical Box. 12. Remove and discard Rear Fender, Fender Support and fasteners. NOTE: 2008-Current various models. Remove ECM from Fender and save nuts. 13. Drain all Brake Fluid from the Rear Brake System. 14. Un-clamp Rear Brake Line from the frame and Rear Fork. 15. Remove and discard both Banjo Bolts and Crush Washers from the Rear Brake Caliper and the Rear Brake Master Cylinder. 16. Remove Brake Light Switch from the Brake line, Save for reassembly. 17. Remove the Torx screw from the Brake Line bracket, Save the Torx screw for reassembly. 18. Remove and Discard Brake Line. 19. If Lower Controls option. Remove and Discard right and left floorboards/foot pegs, brake pedal, shifter, and shift linkage. Remove and Discard Passenger Foot pegs or Floorboards and their mounts. Then skip to step 24. 20. If Lower Controls Not purchased. Continue. 21. Remove acorn nut from Shift Linkage. 22. Remove 3 fasteners from Drivers Floorboard and remove. 23. Remove and discard Jiffy Stand. 24. Remove the Primary Cover by first removing the top and rear inspection cover screws. 25. Continue by removing remaining fasteners. 14 total. 26. Remove and discard Primary Cover Gasket. 27. Clean residual gasket material from both surfaces. 28. Loosen the Top Center Nut on the Primary Chain Adjuster. Lower the Primary Chain Adjuster until it rests flat on the Inner Primary Cover. 29. Remove the Clutch Lifter Retaining Ring from the Clutch Basket. Remove Clutch Lifter Assembly. 30. Using the Primary Drive Locking Tool. Loosen the Compensating Sprocket Nut. 31. Using the Primary Drive Locking Tool. Loosen the Clutch Hub Main shaft Nut. WARNING: This nut is LEFT HAND threaded. 32. Remove the Primary Drive Locking Tool, Compensating Sprocket Nut, and Clutch Hub Main shaft Nut. 33. Remove the Sprocket cover and Sliding Cam from the Crank Shaft Extension. 34. Remove the Clutch Assembly, Primary Chain, Compensating Sprocket, and Crank Shaft Extension in one assembly.

Incoming search terms: