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HARLEY DAVIDSON CHROME BILLET LIFTER-COVER KIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 25-02-2011

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Installation with Stock Pushrods Refer to the service manual for your motorcycle model. Installation with Adjustable Pushrods Lifter-Cover Removal Installing or removing the pushrods with the valve train loaded can result in engine damage. On the cylinder being serviced, always set the lifters to the base circle on the cam before servicing pushrods, lifters, rocker arms, and valves. 1. Set the lifters of the rear cylinder to their lowest point, or base circle, on the cam. Refer to Setting the Lifters to the Base Circle in this instruction sheet. 2. See Figure 1. Insert a screwdriver into the slot on the side of the spring-cap retainer on the pushrod cover. 3. Press the spring-cap and retainer down while pulling outward to remove the spring-cap retainer. 4. See Figure 2. Lift the lower pushrod cover to reveal the lower third of the pushrod. 5. If the engine has stock pushrods installed and you are installing adjustable pushrods with this lifter-cover installation, go to step 6. If the engine already has adjustable pushrods installed and you are installing adjustable pushrods with this lifter-cover installation, go to step 7 6. Use a bolt cutter or similar tool to cut the stock pushrod. Avoid cutting the pushrods with a saw, grinder, or other method that may allow metal debris into the engine. Go to step 8. 7. Loosen the jam nut on each adjustable pushrod and resize each rod to its shortest length. 8. Remove the pushrod covers and pushrods from the engine. 9. Remove the O-rings from the seats in the engine at the top and bottom of the pushrod cover. 10. Remove the four screws fastening the lifter cover to the engine to remove the cover and gasket. 11. Remove old lifter-cover gasket material from the engine, taking care not to allow material to fall into the engine. Continue to Lifter-Cover Installation in this I-Sheet. Lifter-Cover Installation 1. See Figure 3. Verify that the lifter anti-rotation pin is in position. Installing or removing the pushrods with the valve train loaded can result in engine damage. On the cylinder being serviced, always set the lifters to the base circle on the cam before servicing pushrods, lifters, rocker arms, and valves. 2. Verify that the cylinder lifters are set to their lowest point, or base circle, on the cam. Refer to Setting the Lifters to the Base Circle in this instruction sheet. 3. Fasten the new lifter-cover gasket and chrome billet lifter cover to the engine using the chrome screws from this kit. In a cross pattern, torque the lifter-cover screws to 90 – 120 in-lbs (10.2 – 13.6 Nm). 4. See Figure 4. Loosen the jam nut on all of the pushrods and adjust the pushrods to their shortest length. NOTE See Figures 4 and 5. Install the narrow-band pushrods in the cylinder-intake location. Install the wide-band pushrods in the cylinder-exhaust location. 5. Assemble the O-rings (purchased separately) and pushrod covers. 6. Install the pushrods with the pushrod covers. The adjustment-end of the pushrod must be on the lifter

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HARLEY DAVIDSON CHROME LIFTER BLOCK COVER INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 06-03-2011

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INSTALLATION The rider’s safety depends upon the correct installation of this kit. Use the appropriate service manual procedures. If the procedure is not within your capabilities or you do not have the correct tools, have a Harley-Davidson dealer perform the installation. Improper installation of this kit could result in death or serious injury. (00333a) NOTE A Service Manual for your motorcycle is available at any Harley- Davidson Dealer. NOTE Removal of the air cleaner assembly and, in cases where the bike has forward controls, shifter linkage will aid in installation of this kit. Remove the air cleaner and, if necessary, shifter linkage by following procedures in the appropriate Service Manual. 1. Remove the two rear most screws on the rear lifter cover. 2. See Figure 1. Install rear lifter cover bracket (1) assembly using screws (2) removed in step 1. Torque screws to 90- 120 in-lbs (10.0 – 13.5 Nm). 3. Remove the two screws most forward on the front lifter cover. 4. See Figure 2. Install front lifter cover bracket (1) assembly using screws (2) removed in step 3. Torque screws to 90- 120 in-lbs (10.0 – 13.5 Nm)

Harley-Davidson Evolution Engines, Hydraulic Lifter Limited Travel Kit Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 23-10-2010

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Remove tappet assemblies from engine being sure that each one is kept with it’soriginal tappet block. NOTE: This procedure is the preferred method of installation. However, kit can be installed without removing lifters from engine. 2. Remove hydraulic piston retaining wire clip from one assembly at a time. Be careful not to bend wire clip during disassembly. 3. Completely disassemble tappet removing all parts. 4. Thoroughly clean all parts including tappet body. Remove any oil which might prevent hydraulic unit from fully collapsing during adjustment. 5. Insert one spacer from S&S HL 2 Tkit in tappet body. 6. Reassemble tappet in reverse order making sure original parts arereturned to their original positions. See Picture1. 7. Replace wire retaining clip in tappet body. 8. Put tappet back in original tappet block. 9. Repeat Steps 2 through 8 for three remaining tappets. 10. Reassemble engine with modified tappets. 11. Adjust pushrods. NOTE – In all cases engine must be cold and lifter must be at lowest point of travel for pushrod adjustment To prevent accidents, remove ground cable from battery. A. Remove spark plugs. B. Bring piston to TDC on compression stroke in cylinder to be adjusted. Normally both tappets will be at their lowest point of travel. C. Extend pushrod adjustment, collapsing lifter until piston assembly is in contact with HL 2 Tspacer and pushrod is tight. If tappets contain oil, as when pushrods are readjusted after engine has been run, or if all oil was not removed during installation, extend pushrod adjustment until valve is open (about five additional turns of adjusting screw). Allow 5 minutes for hydraulic unit to bleed down. If pushrod can be turned with fingers after bleeding down, lifter is not completely collapsed, and this step must be repeated. NOTE – perform this operation on one cylinder at a time. Do not turn engine until pushrod adjustment is complete. Turning engine while valve is held off the seat could result in valve to valve or valve to piston contact and serious valve train damage. D. Loosen pushrod adjustment until pushrod can be rotated with the fingers with slight drag. NOTE – Shortening adjuster an additional six flats or full turn from zero lash often results in quieter pushrod operation. This provides additional travel for the hydraulic piston assembly, which can improve the ability of the hydraulic unit to maintain zerolash under normal operating conditions. E. Tighten lock nut. F. Follow the same procedure for all four push rods. G. Recheck pushrod adjustment after a few hundred miles. NOTES ● It is a good idea to recheck pushrod adjustment in a new engine as valve train may tighten up due to gasket compression and valve seat wear. ● Upon initial start up after modification, HL 2 Tequipped lifters may be somewhat noisy for 10-20 miles. If lifters are still noisy after 20 miles it is recommended that pushrods be adjusted 1⁄2 turnlooser. See step D

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TRIUMPH 750 BIG BORE CYLINDER AND PISTON SET FOR 650 TWINS INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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Step 1. Unpack your big bore kit and inspect the contents. There should be the following: 1. Cylinder x l 2. piston with wristpin x 2 3. Hepolite piston ring set x l 4. Special big bore head gasket Step 2. Thoroughly wash the cylinder bores with soap and water. Do not use solvent! Dry bores with air or a lint free towel and let completely air dry. This step is most important and will greatly extend the life of the pistons. Step 3. Following the procedure outlined in your service manual, drain the fuel tank, remove the exhaust system, fuel tank and carburetors. Have a catch basin handy to capture any fuel that may spill from the carburetors, as fuel is highly flammable and can be ignited by a dryer pilot light etc. from a long distance. Clean up any spilled fuel immediately and dispose of away from any source of ignition. Store the fuel tank in a well vented area, outdoors is best, in the event your fuel taps should leak. Step 4. Remove the rocker boxes by slacking the 9 head bolts a little at a time in a star pattern. Remove the 6 nuts at the front and back of the head. Remove the 4 corner rocker box bolts. Remove the head bolts and rocker boxes. Remove the push rods. Examine the push rods to insure they are straight and the ends are tight. Replace any suspect push rod. Step 5. Remove the cylinder head. Now would be a good time for guide and valve renewal. This is best left to an expert. More cylinder heads have been ruined by auto machine shops than by hard use. If you do not have a qualified shop in your area please call for a referral. Step 6. Remove the push rod tubes and the cylinder base nuts. Clip rubber bands around the top of the lifters to keep them from dropping into the crankcase. Have a few lint free rags handy. Bring the pistons to the top of the stroke and begin lifting off the cylinder. If the cylinder is hard to lift off, thread a nut on one of the base studs and use a tire lever to pry against the bottom fin close to its base using the stud as a fulcrum. After partially raising the cylinder stuff the crankcase mouth with rags to keep any carbon or broken rings from entering the crankcase. These will remain in place until step 12. Step 7. Leaving the rags in the crankcase remove the wrist pin circlips from the pistons and discard. Heat the piston and gently push the wrist pin out. Do not use force as this can damage the connecting rod or its bearings. Be sure to account for all the clips as one left in the crankcase can do extensive damage. Step 8. Clean all gasket surfaces to remove any traces of the old gaskets. Use Pennatex gasket remover if needed. Be very careful not to scratch the gasket surface or to allow any gasket particles to enter the crankcase. Even a small bit of gasket can stop the oil pump from working! Step 9. Note the direction and location of the lifters. These must be replaced in the same position as when removed. Remove the lifter blocks from the old cylinder. Start by removing the small retaining bolts and washers. The lifter blocks are extremely fragile and are easily broken. They are also very expensive so great care must be taken in this step! Triumph special tool 222-616008 is advisable here. Apply pressure to the center of the block only. Do not press against the tangs that locate the lifter! A tool can be fabricated using two dowels to locate in the lifter holes. Step 10. Clean and examine the lifters and camshaft faces. Clean the lifter blocks and remove the sealing oring under the locating flange. Replace these with the new orings in the gasket set. Apply a smear of gasket sealant to the lifter block oring and press into the new cylinder. Be sure the lifter block is parallel with the bores and the grooved block is on the exhaust side. Apply a small amount of assembly oil to the lifters and replace in the exact position they came from

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YAMAHA ROADLINER / STRATOLINER Fuel Injected INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 28-10-2010

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1. Be sure the main switch is in the off position during the installation process. Failure to do this will cause the “check engine” light to be set. 2. Remove seat exposing the Electronic Control Unit (ECU) and battery. 3. Remove the right side coil cover by removing two allen screws and gently pulling. 4. Disconnect the 6 pin factory connector behind the ignition coils. (Fig 1) 5. Connect Fuelpak 6 pin connectors in-line with factory connectors. 6. Disconnect 3 pin factory connectors behind the ignition coils and connect Fuelpak 3 pin connectors in-line with factory connectors. 7. Route Fuelpak harness up to battery area and reinstall coil side cover. 8. Connect Fuelpak black wire to negative ground wire. (Fig 2) 9. Locate factory 2 pin connector with brown and black wires. Disconnect empty connector and attach Fuelpak red wire connector. 10. Connect Fuelpak 10 pin connector to Fuelpak harness. 11. You are now ready to set-up your Fuelpak. INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR P/N 65001 READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE BEGINNING INSTALLATION FUEL INJECTION MANAGEMENT SYSTEM ROADLINER / STRATOLINER NOTICE: Fuelpak is intended for racing or off-highway use only, and is not legal for sale or use in California on pollution-controlled vehicles. PLEASE NOTE: FUELPAK USE REQUIRES A HIGH PERFORMANCE AIR FILTER. HOW IT WORKS ENTERING VALUES 1. Remove Fuelpak clear case cover by removing all four screws, save hardware . 2. Turn on main power with key, but do not start engine. Fuelpak display should light up, if not, turn power off and verify the connectors are fully seated. 3. Refer to Fuelpak Setting Reference to locate the Setting Values specific to your bike and exhaust system. If you do not find your setting, visit fuelpakfi.com or call tech support at (562) 921-0071. 4. Starting with mode 1 selected, press the value (+) or the value (-) buttons to input the correct value as indicated in your Setting Value. After entering your first value, press the mode select button to move to mode 2 and enter the value. Continue until you have entered the value for each of the first 18 mode positions. Each time the value (+) is pressed, the value increases by one number. Each time the value (-) is pressed, the value decreases by one number. (Please refer to the “How It Works” section directly above if you have questions about this step. 5. As the next procedure, after you have entered in your values for the first 18 modes, press the mode select button to move to mode 19. Fully twist open the throttle and return to idle position to calibrate the Fuelpak to your bike. 6. By pressing the mode select button twice, move to mode 21 and verify that it reads “0″ with the throttle closed, “50″ at approximately half-throttle and “99″ when fully opened; if not, repeat step 5. Do not proceed to step 7 until mode 21 is verified.

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YAMAHA ROADLINER AND STRATOLINER LAY DOWN LICENSEPLATE/ TAIL INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Remove the license plate. Remove the license plate holder assembly from the rear fender (three 8mm Allen bolts 5mm wrench). Remove the five 4mm Allen screws underneath the rear fender which secure the taillight/turn signal assembly to the rear fender (3mm wrench). As shown in photo #2, pull the taillight assembly out away from the fender, turn it over, place a towel or rag between the light and fender and allow it to rest on the fender. 2. Locate the supplied triangular license plate mounting block, two 8 x 20mm Allen screws with holes driiled thru and three rubber washers. Place the two Allen screws thru the upper holes in the block and the rubber washers over the screws on the backside of the block. Start the screws into the upper holes on the fender. Use one of the three screws removed earlier from the original mount in the remaining lower hole of the new block sliding the remaining rubber washer between the block and fender. Tighten all three Allen screws secure enough to compress the rubber washers (4-6 ft lbs.). 3. Locate the supplied license plate mounting plate and LED lights. Cut off the excess red and black wires at the end of the black loom or tube. Referring to photo (1) thread the wires of the LED lights thru the small holes in the mounting plate, peel the cover from the adhesive backing on the lights and press them firmly into place as shown. 4. Locate the three supplied ¼” x ½” flat head Allen screws. Hold the plate up to the mounting block installed earlier with the wires at the bottom of the plate. Thread the wires from the LED lights thru the holes in the upper bolts of the block. Install the plate onto the block using the three flat head screws being sure to keep the exposed wire behind he plate as short as possible and fitting into the slot or cut out at the edge of the block. Snug the screws and again check to see tat the wires are in the slot or cut out in the block and do not become pinched as the screws are tightened. Tighten the screws securely. 5. Where the wires from the taillight go thru the fender there is a grommet, pull this grommet out from the fender. Thread the wires from the LED lights thru the grommet with the other wires. Replace the grommet into the fender and remove any slack from the wires under the fender. Cut the LED wires off at 6″ past the grommet.

YAMAHA ROADLINER AND STRATOLINER LAY DOWN LICENSEPLATE/ TAIL LIGHT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Remove the license plate. Remove the license plate holder assembly from the rear fender (three 8mm Allen bolts 5mm wrench). Remove the five 4mm Allen screws underneath the rear fender which secure the taillight/turn signal assembly to the rear fender (3mm wrench). As shown in photo #2, pull the taillight assembly out away from the fender, turn it over, place a towel or rag between the light and fender and allow it to rest on the fender. 2. Locate the supplied triangular license plate mounting block, two 8 x 20mm Allen screws with holes driiled thru and three rubber washers. Place the two Allen screws thru the upper holes in the block and the rubber washers over the screws on the backside of the block. Start the screws into the upper holes on the fender. Use one of the three screws removed earlier from the original mount in the remaining lower hole of the new block sliding the remaining rubber washer between the block and fender. Tighten all three Allen screws secure enough to compress the rubber washers (4-6 ft lbs.). 3. Locate the supplied license plate mounting plate and LED lights. Cut off the excess red and black wires at the end of the black loom or tube. Referring to photo (1) thread the wires of the LED lights thru the small holes in the mounting plate, peel the cover from the adhesive backing on the lights and press them firmly into place as shown. 4. Locate the three supplied ¼” x ½” flat head Allen screws. Hold the plate up to the mounting block installed earlier with the wires at the bottom of the plate. Thread the wires from the LED lights thru the holes in the upper bolts of the block. Install the plate onto the block using the three flat head screws being sure to keep the exposed wire behind he plate as short as possible and fitting into the slot or cut out at the edge of the block. Snug the screws and again check to see tat the wires are in the slot or cut out in the block and do not become pinched as the screws are tightened. Tighten the screws securely. 5. Where the wires from the taillight go thru the fender there is a grommet, pull this grommet out from the fender. Thread the wires from the LED lights thru the grommet with the other wires. Replace the grommet into the fender and remove any slack from the wires under the fender. Cut the LED wires off at 6″ past the grommet. 6. Referring to photo (2) remove 2″ of the black tubing exposing the red and black wires on the LEDs. Locate the supplied brake/tail light dual function element (a red wire at one end with a red and orange wire at the other) and wire connectors. Cut all three wires on the dual element to 3″ long. Strip the end of the single red wire on the element and both of the red wires from the LEDs then connect them using one of the blue butt connectors. Connect the two black wires from the LEDs to any one of the black wires on the tail light or signals using one of the supplied splice connectors (place both black wires into one of the holes on the connector). Using the remaining splice connectors attach the red wire from the dual element to the yellow wire on the tail light and the orange wire to the blue wire on the tail light. Turn on the ignition and check that the LEDs are working both as tail and brake lights when the brakes are applied.

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YAMAHA ROADLINER AND STRATOLINER PASSENGER FLOOBOARD RELOCATION ARMS

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 23-12-2010

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1. When installing floorboards at the same time first refer to their instructions and using the longer right side black floorboards mounting block supplied with this set of relocation arms. Leave the final floorboards mounting bolt installed loosely at this time. 2. If installing the relocation arms after installing the floorboards at an earlier date proceed as follows. 3. On the left side remove the Allen screw below the floorboards pivot and remove the floorboard from the black mounting block. Remove the dowel pins from their holes on the block. Locate the left relocation arm (stamped “L” and “R” on their backsides). On the end with the clearance hole (not threaded) Place the two dowel pins into one of the two sets of holes which are directly across from each other (180 degrees apart). Hold the arm with the dowel pins up to the mounting block. Align the dowel pins with each of the three sets of holes in the block one at a time noting the height of the opposite end of the arm where the floorboard will mount. Move the dowel pins to the other set of holes on the arm and again hold the arm with the dowel pins up to the blocks three sets of holes. Choose the set of holes in both the block and arm which will set the floorboard to the desired height and place the arm with the dowel pins onto the block. Using one of the button head Allen screws supplied bolt the arm to the block and tighten securely. 4. Locate two of the dowel pins supplied and one of the Allen screw removed earlier. Place the dowel pins into the holes of the arm which allow the floorboard to be level or parallel to the ground. Place a drop of loctite on the threads of the screw and tighten securely. Install the right floorboard in the same manner. 5. On the right side remove the floorboard from the mounting block. Remove the mounting block and replace it with the longer one supplied. Install the right arm in the same manner as the left using the set of dowel pin holes to match the height or angle of the left arm. Install the right floorboard and tighten securely. Recheck all fasteners for tightness.

YAMAHA ROADLINER AND STRATOLINER PASSENGER FLOOBOARDS

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 26-12-2010

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1. Remove the passenger foot pegs pivot bolts and nuts. Remove the pegs, springs, detent ball and shims. 2. Locate the black mounting blocks supplied, notice they are marked “L” and “R” on their outer face. Install the blocks into the slots or clevises where you removed the foot pegs the tapered end should be facing down and the “L” and “R” to the outside. Install the original bolts and nuts removed earlier and tighten the bolts securely

Yamaha Stratoliner 2006 3" Big Straights REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 02-01-2012

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1. Remove right side Foot peg assembly or Floorboard. (Whichever is applicable to your model.) 2. Remove bolts that are holding muffler at rear mounting bracket. 3. Remove Cables from exhaust valve. 4. Remove O2 Sensor from pipe. 5. Remove the two nuts that secure the rear exhaust header pipe to the rear cylinder head. 6. Remove the two nuts that secure the front exhaust header pipe to the front cylinder head. 7. Remove complete pipe assembly. Hard-Krome Exhaust System Installation NOTE: Take care when fitting this Hard-Krome aftermarket exhaust system on your motorcycle. It has been designed to replace a STOCK exhaust system on a motorcycle with its engine, frame and other components in their STOCK design, configuration and location. WARNING : Re-check and re-tighten ALL fasteners and supports after 50 miles, then re-check and tighten as necessary on a periodic basis to ensure proper operation and performance. NOTE: All fasteners should be loose during initial installation to ensure proper fit and location of the new exhaust system. 1. Install new exhaust gaskets. 2. Install mounting bracket using Bolts with flat & lock washers. (See Illustration) 3. Install O2 Sensor onto front pipe and install front pipe onto front cylinder, taking care to not scratch chrome surfaces on pipe, engine or motorcycle. 4. Install the two nuts to secure the flange that holds the exhaust header pipe to the front cylinder head — DO NOT TIGHTEN NUTS! 5. Install 3/8-16 Square nut into each slotted bracket of front pipe and start the 3/8-16×3/4″ Bolt with flat & lock washer through backside of mounting bracket. — DO NOT TIGHTEN BOLTS! 6. Carefully install rear pipe onto rear cylinder. 7. Install the two nuts to secure the flange that holds the exhaust header pipe to the rear cylinder head — (Remove chrome plastic valve cover to access top nut) — DO NOT TIGHTEN NUTS! 8. Install 3/8-16 Square nut into each slotted bracket of rear pipe and start the 3/8-16×3/4″ Bolt with flat & lock washer through backside of mounting bracket. — DO NOT TIGHTEN BOLTS! 9. Tighten the two bolts that secure the rear exhaust header pipe flange. 10. Tighten the two bolts that secure the front exhaust header pipe flange. 11. Tighten front pipe bolts at mounting bracket. 12. Tighten rear pipe bolts at mounting bracket. 13. Reinstall foot peg assembly or floorboard. 14. If applicable to your model install foot peg relocating brackets and foot pegs as shown in illustration.

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