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Yamaha V-Star 1100 Custom and Classic cruisers Floorboard/ Footpeg Extension Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 09-11-2010

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Start on the right (brake) side. 1) Loosen the nut at the end of the brake rod. This will allow you to unscrew the brake rod from the brake lever clevis later. 2) Pull out the cotter pin and remove the pivot pin. Unscrew the clevis 3) Then using a 14mm socket or box-end wrench, remove the two bolts that hold the brake floorboard/footpeg assembly (whichever your bike has) to the frame. These bolts are torqued to 46 ft lbs, so this may be a bit difficult. 1. Loosen this nut 2. Remove the cotter pin (other side of this pivot pin) remove the pivot pin a unscrew the nut to remove the clevis nd 3. Remove these bolts When you remove the floorboard/footpeg bracket, be careful not to pull the brake switch wires loose. You may wish to cut the cable tie for more room, and then rest the bracket, with the footpeg or floorboard attached, on a short box, or block of wood, to keep it handy. Install the new brake rod, to the end of the existing brake rod. Re-install the pivot pin, and the pivot pin cotter pin. Installing the extension bar: Note that the extension bar is bolted so that it rises up in front. Use the new bolts to mount the floorboard/ footpeg bracket to the threaded holes in front. Install the Extension in the proper orientation (angled holes bolt up to the frame, with front of the bar higher than the rear – see photo) using the stock bolts for the extensions to the frame and the new bolts and washers supplied with the kit, on the forward threaded section to relocate the floorboard or footpeg bracket. The use of LocTite ® Blue here is recommended. At this point the right side Floorboard or Footpeg should be secured tightly and the brake lever hanging loose. Now install the Brake rod extension, threading the male end to the original brake rod. Don’t tighten this end yet Place the clevis over the forward most end of the brake rod extension, and threat the clevis nut onto the end of the rod. Bring the brake rod upright, to meet with the clevis at the end of the brake rod extension and replace the pivot pin. Before reinstalling the cotter pin, check the angle of the brake lever, to insure that you have the brake pedal where you want. If necessary, adjust the extension rod in or out, until you are satisfied, and then reinstall the cotter pin into the pivot pin. Check the Brake switch wire and install a new cable tie if required. Note: Due to utilizing a thicker material, 1/2″ versus 3/8″ from our competitor, the Brake rod is now positioned at a greater angle. Even with the angle, braking performance is not affected, but if you wish to bring the master cylinder in line with the brake rod, do this. Loosen the rear, and remove the front Allen bolt. Then place two washers behind the front bolt, under the bracket, and then re-install the bolts To change the angle of the brake rod, 1) loosen and remove the two master cylinder bracket Allen bolts 2) insert two washers behind the front bolt (front of the bike), behind the master cylinder bracket 3) tighten both bolts. Do not install any washers on the rear mounting hole. This will make the angle of the Brake Rod less aggressive. Step Two – Left Side For the left (Shifter) side, 1) use an open-end 10 mm wrench, to unscrew the two nuts that hold the shift rod in place. PLEASE note that one end of the shift rod has a left hand threaded nut. SAVE the nuts, as you will need them on the new longer Polished Stainless Steel Shift Rod. 2) Remove the stock shift rod. 3) Then using a 14mm socket or box-end wrench, remove the two bolts that hold the shifter floorboard/footpeg assembly (whichever your bike has) to the frame.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON FLHT OIL PRESSURE AND AIR TEMPERATURE GAUGE KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 08-02-2011

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INSTALLATION Oil Pressure Sending Unit To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect negative (-) battery cable before proceeding. (00048a) 1. Refer to the Service Manual and follow the instructions given to remove the seat and disconnect the battery cables, negative (-) cable first. 1 2 3 4 is04574 1. Oil pressure sending unit 2. Cam position sensor 3. Crank position sensor 4. Main harness to ECM Figure 1. Electrical Bracket: 2000-2001 Fuel Injected Models (Magnetti-Marelli) 1 2 3 is04575 1. Oil pressure sending unit 2. Crankshaft position sensor 3. P&A siren kit Figure 2. Electrical Bracket (ECM Removed) 2002-2003 Fuel Injected Models (Delphi) -J01875 1 of 4 NOTE For 2002 to 2003 models: See Figure 2. Remove the two screws securing the ECM and remove the ECM to access the electrical bracket. 2. For 2004 and later models: Proceed to the Gauges section. For 2000 to 2003 models: See Figure 1, Figure 2 and Figure 3 for the applicable model and locate the sensor harness connector (2-piece mini-Deutsch® connector). 3 2 4 1 is04576 1. Ignition harness 2. Cam position sensor 3. Oil pressure sending unit 4. Crankshaft position sensor Figure 3. Ignition Module – Carbureted Models 3. Locate the oil pressure sending unit at the front right side of the crankcase and pull wire socket from terminal of the oil pressure sending unit. 4. Carefully draw the conduit and the pin side of mini-Deutsch connector forward and then up between the rear brake master cylinder reservoir and the frame downtube to area of the rear brake pedal. 5. See Figure 4. Remove the secondary locking wedge (3) from the pin side of the connector with a needle nose pliers. 1 3 2 is04577 1. Pin 2. Wire seal 3. Locking wedge Figure 4. Deutsch Connector Pin Side (2-pin connector shown) 6. Gently depress terminal latches inside pin housing and back out the pin in chamber #1 through the hole in wire seal. 7. Pull the oil sending unit wire through conduit and remove wire. Note the routing of the wire. 8. See Figure 9. Route the jumper (6) pins through the conduit from the kit in the same direction as the original wire noted in Step 7. Use cable straps to secure to the wire bundle. 9. See Figure 5. Locate pin chambers #1 and #2 on pin side of connector. Insert brown/green jumper pin into chamber #2 and feed until it clicks into place. Verify that pin will not back out of the chamber by giving a slight tug on the wire to confirm that it is locked

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HARLEY DAVIDSON FL SOFTAIL REAR BRAKE LEVERS REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 24-03-2011

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REMOVAL 1. See Figure 1. Remove the cotter pin (5) and washer (E) from the master cylinder clevis pin (B). Discard the cotter pin. NOTE The clevis pin has a slight interference fit. It may be necessary to use pliers to pull the clevis pin from the push rod. Be careful not to damage mating parts. 2. Remove the clevis pin (B) from the brake rod. Thoroughly clean and examine parts for wear. Replace if necessary. 3. Remove the brake lever mounting screw (A) and flat washer (D), and save for reinstallation, if necessary. Remove and discard the outer O-ring (2). 4. Remove the brake lever by rotating counter-clockwise and lifting the master-cylinder clevis if necessary. Pull the lever from the shaft. Remove and discard the inner O-ring. 5. Thoroughly clean the lever mounting shaft of grease and dirt. INSTALLATION NOTE These levers are equipped with self-lubricating bushings. It is not necessary to lubricate the mounting shaft or bushings inside the lever prior to installation. 1. See Figure 1. Insert the new O-rings (4) on either side of the lever bushings (2). Install the new brake lever (1) onto the mounting shaft. NOTE There is insufficient clearance to install the clevis pin from the outside, so it must be installed from the inboard side of the brake lever. 2. Align the holes in the lever and brake rod and insert the stock clevis pin (B) from the inboard side. 3. Install the small flat washer (E) onto the clevis pin and insert the new cotter pin (5). 4. Place the large flat washer (D) onto the brake lever mounting screw (A). Apply Loctite 243 (blue) to the threads of the screw, and reinstall into the brake lever mounting shaft. Tighten the screw to 12-16 ft-lbs (16.3-21.7 Nm) . 5. Install the brake pedal pad (C) to the brake lever. After repairing the brake system, test brakes at low speed. If brakes are not operating properly, testing at high speeds can cause loss of control, which could result in death or serious injury. (00289a) 6. Check the brake lever for proper operation and clearance through its full travel

The Honda VTX 1300 Keyless Ignition Switch Installation instructions

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 04-11-2011

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Remove the seat from the motorcycle.2. Lift the ignition module off of the battery cover and let it drape over the side of the motorcycle. 3. Remove the battery cover and disconnect the negative battery cable. 4. Remove the gas tank and set it aside. There is a vent line at the right rear of the tank, a vacuum line and the gas feed line on the left side of the tank at the petcock, and two speedometer connectors at the left front of the gas tank. 5. Remove the clip from the top of the steering head cover and remove the right hand side cover. See picture at right. 6. Remove the headlight to expose the wiring connectors inside the headlight shell. 7. Remove the left-hand side cover. On the left side of the frame is an electrical wire shroud wire tied to the left side of the frame with a reusable wire tie. Inside this cover is the 3-pin connector that connects the ignition switch to the bike’s wiring harness. Pull the small lever back to release the wire tie and remove the wire tie. Pull back the wire shroud to reveal the wire connectors inside. Disconnect the 3-pin connector that comes from the ignition switch. Remove the two bolts holding the ignition switch to the bike’s frame. See Picture at right. Remove the ignition switch from the bike. You may have to remove the connector body from the ignition switch wires to slide the wires through the frame when removing the ignition switch. You may now reinstall the side cover. 8. Lay the new wiring harness along the backbone of the bike with the two 9-pin connectors at the headlight and the 6-pin and 3-pin connectors at the battery. Insert the two 9-pin connectors through the large hole in the back of the headlight shell. Inside the headlight shell is a red 9-pin connector. Disconnect this red 9-pin connector and insert the new wiring harness connecting each side to the red 9-pin connectors. See picture at right

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2000-2002 Aprilia Falco INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 26-10-2010

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1) It is a good idea to use Blue Loc-tite on all bolts you are about to remove and replace. 2) This kit has extremely close tolerances and in order for all the parts to clear the triple clamp and gas tank, you will probably have to loosen and align most of the associated bolts. We have tried very hard to make this as compact as possible but we know the factory varies quite a bit from bike to bike. Be patient, the results are worth it. 3) Remove the large 14mm Allen nut and washer that holds your triple clamp on. You will not re-use either part. 4) Install the new “Triple clamp damper mount” Part # 22-2919-00 into the recess area where the stock, Allen-head bolt was sitting. There is a machined recess or washer on the bottom of our mount to match the recess on your triple clamp. The 2 knubs that hang downward, should match the rear contour of your triple clamp precisely. Use loc-tite and retighten the 14mm Allen nut, without any washer, to your factory specs, usually a minimum of 35 ft lbs. and a maximum of 85 ft.lbs. 5) Grease the tower pin and drop it in the tower pin hole portion of the frame bracket. The tower pin is designed to “float” and requires no retaining devices. Keep the tower pin lightly greased! 6) Remove both front fuel-tank retaining bolts and washers. You will use the longer bolts provided in our kit. 7) Install the frame bracket (part #22-8636-00) that mounts to your front (2) tank bolts holes. Make sure it does not make contact with the triple clamp. We’ve machined a recess on one side of this bracket to allow for extra clearance (see photo below). The casting ridge on the back of your triple clamp can vary from bike to bike, which might require some slight filing of that ridged seam to avoid contact with our frame bracket. 8) Now check to be sure the tower pin is not abrazing the tank. The tank mounts are adjustable, try to position the tank so nothing is touching. In some rare cases you might have to elongate the rear tank mounting brackets to allow clearance at the front. Use Loc-tite on the longer Allen bolts supplied and tighten the frame bracket 9) Install the stabilizer using the (2) 6×20 Allens with the slot in the link arm matching the tower pin. 10) Since the tank is rubber mounted, you want to be sure it won’t push forward and rub the frame bracket. After riding the first time, be sure the tank has not shoved forward by your body making contact with it. Remember, under heavy braking your entire body weight is pushing the tank forward. Until you have verified sufficient clearance between the tank and the tower pin, it might be smart to put something between the tank and tower pin to protect the tank. 11) Read your damper manual for initial settings on the controls. The damper is infinitely adjustable and totally up to the user to find their preference. Start with softer (counter clockwise) settings. Normally where we set the unit, at 8 clicks out on the base valve, is a good starting point.

Pulsar Electronic LED Turn Signal Flasher Unit Installation & Operation Instructions

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Filed Under (Pulsar) by admin on 27-10-2010

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1. Locate the stock flasher unit on your motorcycle and remove it. Refer to your motorcycle’s shop manual. 2. Using either the test light or voltmeter, connect or touch one lead to the chassis or ground. Turn on the ignition switch. 3. Then touch the probe of either the test-light or the other lead of the voltmeter to one of wires or contacts where the flasher was removed from. If using the test-light, the light will light up when the supply line has been located. If using the voltmeter, the meter will indicate a voltage value, if present. Important Notice: Verify which grounding type your motorcycle is using before performing one of the following procedures. This can simply be done by seeing which terminal of the battery is connected to the motorcycle’s chassis or frame. Figure 3 • Positive Earth: Connect the black wire (-V) into the contact that indicated power was present. Plug the white wire (O/P) into the other contact, which did not have any power present. Turn off the ignition switch. Cut off the connector on the red wire w/ fuse holder (+V); strip the insulation back about ¼” (6 mm) and install the ring terminal on the wire, then ground the ring terminal to a chassis bolt or screw. If ground is not available via the chassis, then connect to an earth (ground) wire from the wiring harness. • Negative Ground: Connect red wire w/ fuse holder (+V) into the contact that indicated power was present. Plug the white wire (O/P) into the other contact, which did not have any power present. Turn off the ignition switch. Cut off the connector on the black wire (-V); strip the insulation back about ¼” (6 mm) and install the ring terminal on the wire, then ground the ring terminal to a chassis bolt or screw. If ground is not available via the chassis, then connect to a ground wire from the wiring harness

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Harley-Davidson CHROME FRONT BRAKE CALIPER KIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 25-11-2010

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See Figure 1. Refer to FRONT BRAKE CALIPERS: REMOVAL in the Service Manual, and follow the instructions to: a. remove the banjo bolt with bleeder valve (2) and both gaskets (4), and b. detach the front brake line (3) from the caliper. c. Discard the gaskets. For this installation, the banjo bolt (2) can also be discarded. d. Remove the caliper mounting bolts (1). Lift the brake caliper assembly upward to remove it from the brake disc. -J03529 1 of 4
2 5 3 4 1 is04104 1. Mounting bolt (2) 2. Banjo bolt with bleeder valve 3. Brake line 4. Gasket (2) 5. Screen cover Figure 1. Remove Existing Caliper 2. Remove the brake pads from the caliper. Refer to BRAKE PADS AND DISCS: BRAKE PAD REPLACEMENT, FRONT BRAKE CALIPER in the Service Manual. a. Remove the screen cover (5) from the caliper. b. See Figure 2. Note the orientation of the brake pads, and remove the retaining clip (2), pad pin (1) and brake pads from the caliper. Also note the position of the brake pads at removal, so they can be installed back in the same location. 3. Repeat the procedure for the opposite-side caliper. 2 1 is04105 1. Pad pin 2. Retaining clip Figure 2. Front Caliper Pad Pin Pad and Pin Inspection 1. Refer to BRAKE PADS AND DISCS: INSPECTION in the Service Manual, and follow the instructions given to inspect the brake pads. If any front brake pad is worn to 0.5 mm (0.020 inch) or less above the backing plate, replace all four front pads. 2. Inspect the brake disc thickness, lateral runout and warpage. If necessary, follow the instructions in the Service Manual under FRONT WHEEL to replace the discs. Chrome Caliper Installation 1. See Figure 3. Obtain the correct-side new chrome caliper assembly from the kit. Remove the screen cover (5), retaining clip and pad pin (4) from the caliper. NOTE Do not remove the shipping plug protecting the brake line threaded hole until ready to install the brake line. 2. Place the caliper over the brake disc with the brake line threaded hole (protected by a shipping plug) facing upward. 3. See Figure 1. Obtain two of the brake caliper mounting bolts (1), removed earlier. Loosely install both bolts through the front fork and into the chrome caliper. Alternately tighten the mounting bolts to 38.0-51.5 Nm (28-38 ft-lbs) . 4. Install the brake pads removed earlier or, if necessary, new brake pads into the caliper. 5. See Figure 2. Install the new pad pin (1) through the inner and outer brake pads. Tighten to 8.5-11.5 Nm (75-100 in- lbs ) . 6. Install the new retaining clip (2) onto the pad pin. NOTE Ensure that the screen cover is oriented with the single tab end up, and the double tab end down. 7. See Figure 1. Install the new screen cover (5) onto the caliper.

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CONDOR PIT-STOP / TRAILER-STOP USER INSTRUCTION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 27-11-2010

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Assembly Illustration: Step1: Using parts C, attach the Base Back to the Main Unit. (3/16 allen wrench required, torque between 16 – 18 ft-lbs) Step2: Swing into position the front stop containing the CONDOR logo. Step3: Place Pin F through Main Unit and front stop bracket. The pin may be tight at first use, push it through using light force and twisting it in. (Attach Hair Pin Cotter H once the pin has passed all the way through) Step4: Place cradle as shown in the desired setting and insert Pin E through Main unit and cradle pipe. (Attach Hair Pin Cotter G once the pin has passed all the way through) User Instructions: Confirm that the cradle is set in the optimized position setting for the entering tire and wheel. Adjustment of cradle is crucial for optimum retention. Optimum retention is achieved by trying different settings. Place unit in front of or behind motorcycle. Push or drive motorcycle centered into unit until the cradle of the Pit-Stop has fully engaged the wheel. Once the wheel is cradled, proceed to push further into the Pit- Stop until the wheel has engaged the front stop. If the optimum vertical support is achieved, the motorcycle will hold itself upright. If optimum retention is not achieved try different cradle settings. As an extra precaution, use the Velcro strap to strap the cradled wheel to the front stop. Always strap Velcro through the wheel and around the front stop below the upper front stop flange

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Harley-Davidson Big Twin Evolution and Twin Cam Edelbrock/ JE Sport INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONSsman Pistons

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 07-02-2011

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INSTALLATION PROCEDURE Note: All Evolution® “Big Twin” pistons are marked “Front” or “Rear” and come with rings, wrist pins, and locks. • Note: We highly recommend that a dealer or trained mechanic perform the installation of these pistons. Specialized equipment is required for honing and finishing the cylinders to ensure long life of the piston and cylinder assembly. 1. Remove original equipment cylinders from engine. Refer to a shop manual or other reference book for specific steps, if needed. (Note: Care should be taken not to bend the studs or damage the cylinder during removal of the cylinders.) 2. With a small screwdriver, move the wrist pin retainer around to gain access to the tail of the retainer as it lines up with the notch in the bottom of the wrist pin hole. 3. Use a small screwdriver, pick or awl to roll the wrist pin retainer out of its groove. 4. Push wrist pin out and remove piston. 5. Repeat procedure for the other piston. 6. At this point, take cylinders, new pistons, and piston-to-wall clearance specifications to your dealer or machine shop to perform necessary machining operations. • IMPORTANT NOTE (Evolution® and Twin Cam®): The cylinder bore must be machined/honed to provide .0025″ of piston-to-wall clearance. Measure the piston diameter at a point .500″ up from the lower skirt (See Figure 3). 7. Starting with the front cylinder, install new piston rings and one wrist pin retaining clip (Note: Second ring has a dot which must face up when the ring is installed) . 8. Place the piston over the conecting rod, making sure that the intake valve pocket is towards the intake side. (For Evolution ® , see Figure 1. For Twin Cam ® , see Figure 2) . Coat the wrist pin with engine oil and insert it into the piston. Install the second wrist pin retainer into the groove. 9. Lightly coat the piston skirt with engine oil. Place a piston ring compressor over the piston/ring assembly and compress. Place the cylinder over the piston and gently push down until all rings are in the cylinder. Remove the ring compressor, and push the cylinder the rest of the way down. (Note: Be careful not to get oil onto the base gasket.) 10. Place two nuts and washers on opposite corners of the #1 cylinder to hold it down while you repeat the procedure for cylinder #2. 11. Assemble the rest of the engine per factory specifications. Start the engine and let it run at 2000 rpm for about 10 minutes.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON V-ROD CHROME REAR TURN SIGNAL INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 08-03-2011

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INSTALLATION Prepare the Motorcycle 1. Remove the right cover and the maxi-fuse. 2. Follow Service Manual instructions to remove the air box cover. Remove the Existing Rear Turn Signals 1. For 2006 and Earlier Models: See Figure 1. Insert a screwdriver into middle of hole of license plate light cover. Push forward to release tail lamp housing retaining clip. 2. See Figure 3. Identify the white left [19] (1) and black right [18] (2) 2 pin rear turn signal connectors. 3. See Figure 6. To separate the rear turn signal connector, press the button (1) and separate the pin terminal housing from the socket terminal housing. 4. On the socket terminal housing, press the latch (2) aside and open the secondary lock (3). 5. To remove the rear turn signal wires from the socket terminal housing, insert a pin (6) into the front socket cavity. Compress the tang (4) while gently pulling the wire and socket terminal (5) from the back. 6. See Figure 7. Inside the fender, remove the fasteners (1) and the turn signal support plate (2). Pull the turn signal wiring through holes in license plate mounting bracket and remove turn signals. 7. Repeat for the opposite turn signal. 1. For 2007 and Later Models: See Figure 2. Open seat and remove the nut and washer (3), seat post (2), passenger pillion and passenger seat (1) per the instructions in the Service Manual. 2. See Figure 4. Identify the left (1) and right (2) rear turn signal wires and 6 pin rear turn signal connector [94]. 3. See Figure 6. To separate the rear turn signal connector, press the button (1) and separate the pin terminal housing from the socket terminal housing. 4. On the socket terminal housing, press the latch (2) aside and open the secondary lock (3). 5. See Figure 5. Remove the turn signal wires from the 6 pin socket terminal housing. To remove the wires, insert a pin (6) into the front socket cavity. Compress the tang (4) while gently pulling the wire and socket terminal (5) from the back. Repeat for all four turn signal wires. Do not remove the license light wires from the socket terminal housing. 6. Gently pull the loose turn signal wires through the sheath toward the rear of the vehicle until completely removed from the sheath. 7. See Figure 7. Inside the fender, remove the fasteners (1) and the turn signal support plate (2). Pull the turn signal wiring through holes in license plate mounting bracket and remove turn signals. 8. Repeat for the opposite turn signal

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