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1995 Camry WIPER MOTOR CIRCUIT BREAKER INSPECTION PROCEDURE

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 15-10-2011

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INSPECTION PROCEDURE: Inspect the Wiper Fuse. Verify there is power and ground to the Wiper Motor on all speeds (including “Intermittent” or “Mist” if applicable). After verifying power and ground to the Wiper Motor, follow the procedure below to prevent unnecessary Wiper Motor replacement because of a temporary open in the Wiper Motor Circuit Breaker. 1) Disconnect the Wiper Motor Harness Connector. 2) Wait (10) minutes before checking continuity. 3) Check the continuity of the motor with an ohmmeter. REPRESENTATIVE CHECKING PROCEDURE: NOTE: Continuity check can be performed between either the low speed or high speed terminal and the ground terminal of the wiper motor. The standard resistance of a good wiper motor is approximately 1.5 to 4.5 ohm

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V-Star 1100 And Dragstar 1100 Modification V-Star Driving/ Passing Lights Factory Chrome Light Bar Cover Installation

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 08-11-2010

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Modify your factory light bar cover to fit on Yamaha brand driving/passing lights. Use a rotary tool to widen the fastening area of the lower backside clips on the cover. The total width between the clips should be 4 æ inches. Trim off º inch on both inside ends of the lower backside attachment clips. Trim the clips equally. The following picture shows a modified cover. Narrow the clips on both ends to fit over the welds on the bar. The cover will not attach to the bar if the width between the clips is too narrow. If the width is too wide the cover may slide sideways on the bar. Narrow both clips equally to center the cover over the welds on the lower edge of the bar. The top of the cover is modified to allow the cover to fit over the bolts on the light bar. The top edge of the cover is filed æ inch deep and 5/8 inch wide to fit over the bolts. The back top edge is filed or ground 1/8 inch to fit over the light bar fastening bracket. Use care when filing chrome covered plastic. The following picture will help to complete this step in the modification. Modify your factory light bar cover to fit on Yamaha brand driving/passing lights. The ends of the cover are modified to allow the cover to fit over the upward curved light bar. The upper openings on the ends of the cover that fit over the bar must be filed to enlarge the area. Grinding the cover ends will allow the cover to fit and clip onto the bar. The end openings are filed or ground at an angle to match the slope of the bar. This picture shows the outer end of the cover. The ends of this cover have been modified by enlarging the area on the upper edges to fit over the upward curving light bar. The ends must be enlarged 1/8 inch on the top edge. The cover edge can be slanted upward to match the curved bar. Modify the cover ends until it fits without the outer chrome cover touching the bar. Modify your factory light bar cover to fit on Yamaha brand driving/passing lights. Sometimes the modified light bar cover may touch the bottom of the headlight. Modify the cover, or adjust the bar or headlight if you notice the headlight touching the bar cover. This modification makes the V-Star motorcycle with Yamaha driving lights look better. The light bar bolts are covered and the chrome cover improves the appearance of the front of your bike. Other V-Star riders will notice how nice the front of your bike looks with the chrome light bar cover installed

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HARLEY DAVIDSON LIGHTED MIRRORS REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 08-03-2011

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REMOVAL Prepare for Service Touring Models: Remove left side saddlebag, left side cover, and maxi-fuse. Refer to SADDLEBAG and MAXI-FUSE in Service Manual. Softail and Dyna Models: To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect battery cables (negative (-) cable first) before proceeding. (00307a) Disconnect negative (-) battery cable first. If positive (+) cable should contact ground with negative (-) cable connected, the resulting sparks can cause a battery explosion, which could result in death or serious injury. (00049a) 1. Remove seat according to the instructions in the Service Manual. 2. Disconnect battery cables, negative (-) cable first. 3. Remove fuel tank according to the instructions in the Service Manual. Sportster Models: Remove left side cover and maxi-fuse. Refer to MAXI-FUSE in Service Manual. V-Rod Models: Remove right side cover and maxi-fuse. Refer to MAXI-FUSE in Service Manual. Remove Existing Mirrors Touring and Softail (Except FXSTD, FLSTF) Models Left side: See Figure 1. Remove acorn nut (1), star washer (2), and existing mirror (3) from clutch hand control assembly. Discard star washer and mirror but save acorn nut. Right side: See Figure 2. Remove acorn nut (1), star washer (2), and existing mirror (3) from front brake hand control assembly. Discard star washer and mirror but save acorn nut. 2 1 3 is03431 1. Acorn nut 2. Star washer 3. Mirror, left Figure 1. Remove L.H. Mirror (Except Sportster) 2 1 3 is03432 1. Acorn nut 2. Star washer 3. Mirror, right Figure 2. Remove R.H. Mirror (Touring, Softail – Except FXSTD, FLSTF) Dyna, FXSTD, FLSTF, and VRSC Models 1. Left side: See Figure 1. Remove acorn nut (1), star washer (2), and existing mirror (3) from clutch hand control assembly. Discard star washer and mirror but save acorn nut. 2. Right side: See Figure 3. Loosen ball stud clamp (1) to remove directional lamp assembly (2). Remove retainer (3), star washer (4), and existing mirror (5) from front brake hand control assembly. Discard star washer and mirror but save remaining parts. 2 5 3 1 4 is03428 1. Ball stud clamp 2. Directional lamp assembly 3. Retainer 4. Star washer 5. Mirror, right Figure 3. Remove R.H. Mirror (Dyna, FXSTD, FLSTF, VRSC) Sportster Models Left side: See Figure 4. Remove locknut (1), washer (2), and existing mirror (3) from clutch hand control assembly. Discard washer and mirror but save locknut. Right side: See Figure 4. Remove locknut (1), washer (2), and existing mirror (4) from front brake hand control assembly. Discard washer and mirror but save locknut. 3 2 1 2 1 4 is03414 1. Locknut (2) 2. Washer (2) 3. Mirror, left 4. Mirror, right Figure 4. Remove Mirrors (Sportster) INSTALLATION Install Lighted Mirrors Touring and Softail (Except FXSTD, FLSTF, FXSTS, FLSTS) Models 1. Left side: See Figure 5. Install mirror stem (1) through clutch hand control assembly.

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Yamaha XVS650 and 1100 Drag Star/V-Star Service and Repair Manual

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 27-04-2011

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Fortunately, Haynes cruises to the rescue with the introduction of its new Service and Repair Manual for all Yamaha XVS650 and 1100 models – XVS650 (‘97-’05), XVS650A Classic (‘98-’05), XVS1100 (‘99–’05) and XVS1100A Classic (‘00–’05). Hailed as “… essential reading for any biker tackling his own servicing…” by Motor Cycle News, Haynes manuals have an enviable reputation. The new manual provides fully illustrated, step-by-step instructions for DIY servicing, overhaul and repairs of the engine and transmission, fuel and ignition systems, suspension and steering, the braking system and the electrical system. Each task is given a spanner rating for complexity and experience required. Checking and adjusting the valve clearances is rated as three spanners out of five. There are full-colour sections on the history of the models, on daily preride hecks and those all-important wiring diagrams, plus tools required and Haynes Hints. For instance, when changing the brake fluid how to tell when all the old fluid has been displaced The section guiding readers

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Commonwealth of Massachusetts Registry of Motor Vehicles Motorcycle Manual

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 18-11-2010

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DEFINITIONS MOTORCYCLE Any motor vehicle having a seat or saddle for the rider that is designed to travel with no more than three wheels contacting the ground, including any bicycle with a motor or driving wheels attached. MOTORIZED BICYCLE A pedal bicycle which has a helper motor, or a non-pedal bicycle which has a motor, with a cylinder capacity not exceeding fifty (50) cubic centimeters, an automatic transmission, and which is capable of a maximum speed of no more than thirty (30) miles per hour (mph) . OPERATION OF MOTORIZED BICYCLES Under Massachusetts law, mopeds fall into the category of “motorized bicycles”(with or without pedals) and are therefore regulated by the Registrar of Motor Vehicles. Individuals must have a valid learner’s permit or driver’s license to operate a motorized bicycle or moped. Mopeds must have automatic transmissions and cylinder capacities of no more than 50 cubic centimeters. In addition, mopeds must meet all federal motor vehicle safety standards and have maximum speeds of no more than 30 mph. The following limitations apply:  Individuals may not operate at speeds greater than 25 mph;  Individuals may not operate on state highways or limited- access roads with signs prohibiting bicycles;  Individuals may not operate on off-street recreational paths;  Individuals may use bicycle lanes along roadways;  Individuals must use the proper hand signals before stopping or turning;  Individuals and their passengers must wear United States Department of Transportation (US DOT) approved helmets when operating;  Individuals may not carry passengers while operating on a permit.

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TRIUMPH ROCKET III TIP OVER BARS INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-12-2010

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1. Starting on the right side (towards the front of the motor) locate the three mounting bolts that secure the brake assembly bracket (a chrome tube) to the bottom of the motor. Remove the bottom and front bolts. Repeat for left side. 2. Locate the front motor mount bolt. This is the black bolt located at the very front of the engine about halfway down behind the radiator. Remove the nut from this bolt on the left side. Properly secure the bike and use a jack to lift up on the motor to release the pressure from the motor mount bolt. Remove the bolt. 3. On the right side place the motor mount bolt thru the upper mounting hole of the right tip over bar. Install the tip over bar by feeding the motor mount bolt thru the original hole and inserting the two bolts (supplied) into the bottom mounting holes. (Do not tighten yet.) 4. On the left side install the top of the left tip over bar by inserting it into the right side tip over bar. Align the tip over bar so that the motor mount bolt extends thru the upper mounting hole. Thread the original locking nut onto the motor mount bolt a couple of turns. Now align the bottom of the tip over bar and install the remaining two bolts (supplied). Tighten the motor mount bolt (torque to 28-32 ft/lbs) and the lower four bolts (torque to 14-18 ft/lbs) securely. 5. Re-check all hardware for tightness

Honda Shadow A.C.E. v. Yamaha V-Star 1100 Middleweight Import Cruiser Shootout

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 25-11-2010

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You want a big cruiser but you don’t need a large 1500 cc behemoth that weighs close to half-a-ton fully loaded. You want something you can cruise down the boulevard on but you want to be able to handle a corner or two. You want classic styling but you insist on reliability as well. If these are your guidelines, then Honda and Yamaha might have what you’re looking for in the guise of the Honda Shadow American Classic Edition and Yamaha V-Star 1100. Shadow ACE 1100 The ACE and V-Star have a few things in common: Both sport requisite V-twin powerplants (75° for the V-Star and 45° for the ACE) and both possess typical Japanese refinement. Aside from these similarities, the two rides are very different machines. While both machines are shaft driven, the ACE uses the shaft housing as the swingarm. Although this arrangement is effective, it’s a bit lacking style-wise. However, the whitewall tires and the classic fenders and tank help to create a traditional design that turns heads when you’re out and about. The V-Star uses a different approach, utilizing a pivoting sub-frame design with a hidden mono-shock that keeps the lines fluid and consistent with the rest of the bike. Although this beast isn’t equipped with whitewall tires, it still cuts a graceful, glittering profile. The only flaw we noticed was the small headlight that

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Harley Davidson Dakota Digital HLY-6000 Road Star Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 31-10-2010

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The Road Star wiring is split into 2 different bundles with black connectors on the ends that were used to plug into the stock gauge cluster. Cut off both connectors. They are no longer needed The speed sensor wires on the HLY-6000 have a connector on the end that allows you to plug it directly into Harley Davidson speed sensors by using an appropriate adapter (sold separately). Luckily for us, the Road Star’s stock speed sensor will work just fine without an adapter so go ahead and cut off that connector, you don’t need it.
Ideally, the best location for the “brain box” unit of the HLY-6000 would be under the left side cover. Unfortunately, mine is full of other stuff so I had to improvise the location and decided to mount it to the back portion of the under-seat area. I would recommend that you mount yours under the left side cover though. The wires are the perfect length for that location. The brain box and wires could fit under the right side cover, but I don’t believe that the main gauge connector would reach. Using the wiring scheme on the last page of this guide, match up the wires on the Road Star with the corresponding wires on the HLY-6000 wiring harness and solder them together. Important Wiring Information: Both BLACK wires on the brain box need to be connected directly to the (-) terminal on the battery. Don’t connect them to anything else. The following wires from the Road Star are not used and can be taped off: • BLACK • RED / GREEN • BROWN The following wires from the HLY-6000 are not used and can be taped off: • GRAY • WHITE/ BLUE • WHITE (on main harness) • BROWN (*optional) The HLY-6000 has a “dimmer” function which is controlled by the BROWN wire. If you want the gauge to be bright all the time, then leave this wire disconnected. If you want the gauge to dim for night driving, then connect this wire to the GREEN Low Beam (+12v) wire

CUSTOM LED 2004-2006 YAMAHA ROAD STAR INTEGRATED TAIL KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 10-11-2010

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1 ) REMOVE THE SCREWS ON THE BACK SIDE OF THE TAIL LIGHT THAT HOLD THE CHROME TRIM TO THE TAIL LIGHT. 2 ) POSITION YOUR CUTTING WHEEL AS SHOWN IN THE PICTURE TO THE LEFT WHERE THE CLEAR PART OF THE LENS TURNS 90 DEGREES. THE CUTTING WHEEL SHALL REMAIN IN THE PLANE OF THE LENS. 3 ) PROCEED TO CUT INTO THE CLEAR LENS APPROXIMATELY HALF OF THE THICKNESS, ALL THE WAY AROUND THE PERIMETER OF THE LENS – BE SURE NOT TO CUT ALL THE WAY THROUGH BECAUSE IT WILL NOT GLUE BACK TOGETHER PROPERLY. SEE “TIPS FOR CUTTING YOUR LENS” BEFORE BEGINNING. TIPS FOR CUTTING YOUR LENS A) KEEP THE CUTTING WHEEL MOVING AND APPLY LIGHT PRESSURE. SITTING IN ONE SPOT WILL JUST MELT THE PLASTIC. WHEN YOU MAKE YOUR WAY AROUND THE ENTIRE PERIMETER, CLEAN ALL THE BURRED PLASTIC FROM AROUND THE EDGES AND FROM INSIDE THE GROOVE YOU’VE MADE. OPENING THE LENS 4 ) PLACE THE TIP OF A FLAT HEAD SCREWDRIVER IN THE GROOVE YOU HAVE CREATED. 5 ) GENTLY TWIST THE SCREWDRIVER TO CRACK THE GLUE ALONG THE GROOVE. NOTE: AS SOON AS YOU HEAR THE SOUND OF THE GLUE GIVING (A CRACK), MOVE THE SCREWDRIVER SLIGHTLY AND ADVANCE THE CRACK. SLOW AND STEADY IS THE NAME OF THE GAME HERE. IF YOU FIND A HARD SPOT, WEAKEN IT WITH THE CUTTING WHEEL AS NECESSARY. THE HARD PART IS OVER! YOU CAN RELAX NOW! 2 ©2005 Custom LED LLC. All Rights Reserved. 6 ) REMOVE THE SCREWS HOLDING THE STOCK LED BOARDS TO THE HOUSING (YOU WILL BE REUSING SOME OF THE SCREWS SO PUT THEM TO THE SIDE). 7 ) REMOVE THE STOCK LED ASSEMBLY FROM THE LENS HOUSING. YOU WILL NO LONGER NEED THE STOCK LED BOARD, DISPOSE OF IT AS YOU WISH. 8 ) GENTLY PRY OFF THE PLASTIC COVER TO EXPOSE THE DRIVER BOARD UNDERNEATH. 9 ) REMOVE THE SCREWS SUPPORTING THE DRIVER BOARD AND SNIP OFF THE THREE WIRES (BLUE, BLACK, YELLOW) AS SHOWN AS CLOSE TO THE CIRCUIT BOARD AS POSSIBLE! YOU WILL NEED TO CONNECT TO THESE WIRES LATER. 10 ) POP OUT THE LITTLE BLACK PLUG AS SHOWN IN THE PICTURE. YOU CAN POKE IT OUT FROM THE INSIDE OF THE HOUSING. WIRING UP YOUR CUSTOM LED BOARD PLACE YOUR CUSTOM LED INTEGRATED TAIL BOARD NEXT TO THE HOUSING AND MATCH THE WIRE COLORS AS FOLLOWS: TRY TO HANDLE THE CIRCUIT BOARD AS LITTLE AS POSSIBLE AS FINGERPRINTS AND DIRT WILL HINDER THE PERFORMANCE. • BLACK ON HARNESS TO 6″ BLACK ON CUSTOM LED BOARD • BLUE ON HARNESS TO 6″ BLUE ON CUSTOM LED BOARD • YELLOW ON HARNESS TO 6″ YELLOW ON CUSTOM LED BOARD USE THE THREE (3 OF 5) SUPPLIED ORANGE SPLICE CONNECTORS. PUSH THE TWO WIRES TO BE SPLICED TOGETHER INTO THE OPEN END. BE SURE TO PUSH THE WIRES ALL THE WAY IN (UNTIL YOU CAN SEE THEY HAVE REACHED THE OTHER SIDE). NOTE: YOU WILL NEED TO SEPARATE THE THREE WIRES FIRST BY CUTTING THE PLASTIC COLLAR THAT BINDS THEM. FOR THE WIRES TO FIT PROPERLY INTO THE CONNECTORS, YOU MUST ALSO REMOVE THE REMNANTS OF THE COLLAR FROM THE WIRES. NOTE: THE SPLICE IS MORE RELIABLE IF THE WIRE IS NOT STRIPPED. BE SURE TO SNIP OFF THE BARE ENDS OF THE WIRES ON THE CUSTOM LED TAIL TO ENSURE THAT THERE IS INSULATION WHERE THE SPLICE WILL OCCUR. THE SUPPLIED SPLICE CONNECTORS AUTOMATICALLY DISPLACE THE INSULATION AS NECESSARY. ONCE YOU DOUBLE CHECK YOUR COLOR MATCHING AND ARE ABSOLUTELY SURE THAT THE WIRES ARE FULLY INSERTED INTO THE SPLICE CONNECTORS DO THE FOLLOWING: 11 ) SQUEEZE THE SPLICE CONNECTORS FIRMLY WITH PLIERS. VISUALLY INSPECT YOUR CONNECTIONS TO SEE THAT THEY HAVE BEEN SPLICED PROPERLY INSIDE. 12 ) RUN THE GREEN AND BROWN WIRES THROUGH THE HOLE YOU OPENED UP IN STEP 9

YAMAHA V-Star 1100 Carburetor Bowl Screw Repair and Removal After Stripping and Pilot Cap Removal

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 19-01-2012

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When I first started working on bike many years ago, I learned the danger of stripping the heads of Philips screws when removing or installing them on motorcycles. I remember the two worst screws were the casing side-cover aluminum screws and carburetor bowl screws. I think I tried every method of screw removal after they were stripped. Vice grips, better tipped screwdriver, hammer, drill, and other tools were used. One way I learned to remove stripped screws is to re-make the Philips head into a flathead screw. Cutting a slot in the top of the screw and then use a flat-head screwdriver to remove the screw. On some parts this technique can work, other parts and screws it may not. The Philips screws on the bottom of the V-Star carburetor bowls are VERY prone to stripping. In fact, I will not start a carburetor cleaning without new hex head screws to replace the original Philips bowl screws. Replace the bowl screws for yourself if you keep the bike, or for the next rider that will appreciate the hex-head screws when they clean the carburetors. Not many other parts on a V-Star have screws that are prone to stripping. This documentation is to help riders with motorcycle maintenance. Some riders will find themselves with the problem of removing stripped screws. A carburetor cleaning can quickly double in time when you realize the hardest part of the job is removing bowl screws after they strip. And then realizing you do not have the replacement hex-head screws available and must now go to the hardware store.

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