do you set ninja 650r idle while in nuetral or first gear

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HARLEY DAVIDSON GEAR SHIFTER SHAFT COVER INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 30-03-2011

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Models This kit fits 1982 and later Touring and FL Softail model motorcycles. Kit Contents Table 1. Kit Contents Part Number Description (Quantity) Not Sold Separately Gear shifter shaft cover Not Sold Separately Screw, set There are no Service Parts available with this kit. INSTALLATION 1. Remove the stock heel shift lever from the gear shifter shaft. 2. Install the set screw into the gear shifter shaft cover. 3. Install gear shifter shaft cover with installed set screw over the end of the gear shifter shaft. 4. Tighten the set screw until light contact is made with the shaft groove. 5. Loosen the set screw slightly to allow the gear shifter shaft cover to rotate. Rotate the cover until the set screw faces down, then tighten the set screw.

HARLEY DAVIDSON SHIFTER SHAFT COVER WITH INSERT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 03-02-2011

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INSTALLATION 1 2 4 3 5 6 7 is01872 1. Shifter shaft 2. Inner cover 3. Toe shifter lever 4. Outer cover 5. Set screw (for outer cover) 6. Set screw (for inner cover) 7. Casting Figure 1. Shifter Shaft Covers 1. See Figure 1. Remove the stock heel shift lever and toe shift lever (3) from the gear shifter shaft (1). 2. Install the set screw (6) into the inner gear shifter shaft cover (2). 3. Install inner gear shifter shaft cover with installed set screw over the casting (7) in-board of the shifter shaft (1). 4. Tighten the set screw until light contact is made with the casting. Do not overtighten. 5. Re-install toe shift lever on the gear shifter shaft. Tighten the shifter retaining screw to 18-22 lb-ft (24-30 Nm) . 6. Install the set screw (5) into the outer gear shifter cover (4). 7. Install outer gear shifter shaft cover with installed set screw over the end of the gear shifter shaft (1). 8. Loosen the set screw slightly to allow the gear shifter shaft cover to rotate. Rotate the cover until the set screw faces down, then tighten the set screw. SERVICE PARTS

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Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Upgrading the Suspension on the Kawasaki ER6-F/ N

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 30-11-2010

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Top fork is as removed. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Before removing the fork from the clamps on the yokes I loosened the fork top. Before removing the fork top the fork-slider was placed in a vice and the bottom bolt loosened….. … before finally being removed with the fork upside down. Because the springs were still in situ this gave sufficient tension on the damper-rod to prevent it from turning and allow the bolt to be removed. When I turned the fork the right-way up to remove the fork-top I did it over a container to catch the oil. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource All the OE components that will no longer be required. Left to right. Fork-top, spacer tube, washer, spring, damper-rod. Bottom bolts get re-used. Old and new, laid-out for comparison. The damper unit, minus spring and fork-top, drops inside the stanchion and slider. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Then the bolt goes back in, as tight as possible, to secure it. Top fork is done, second one awaits. Note the spring seat on the right, just below the spring. This drops over the damping rod after the oil has been added. The small locking-nut screws over the threaded part of the damping-rod next, all the way to the bottom. Spring drops in and then the fork-top screws on to the damping-rod as well, all the way down to the lock-nut which is used to secure it. At this point the stanchion is extended to the fork-top which is screwed in. Job done.

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2007 Ural Models Gear Up Patrol Tourist Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Ural) by admin on 02-11-2010

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Font Brake Control Lever Clutch control lever: When the clutch lever is squeezed, the engine is disengaged from the gearbox. When the lever is released, the engine and gearbox are engaged. WARNING: MAKE SURE FINGERS ARE NOT POSITIONED BETWEEN HAND CONTROL LEVERS AND HANDLEBAR GRIPS OR OPERATION OF VEHICLE COULD BE IMPAIRED . WARNING: B EFORE STARTING ENGINE , ALWAYS SHIFT TRANSMISSION TO NEUTRAL TO PREVENT ACCIDENTAL MOVEMENT WHICH COULD CAUSE POSSIBLE DAMAGE TO MOTORCYCLE AND PERSONAL INJURY . Caution: Always engage the clutch release lever when shifting. Serious internal damage may result to the transmission if the clutch release lever is not engaged. Front brake control lever: When the lever is squeezed, the front wheel brake is actuated. The front brake should be used together with rear brake. When the brake lever is squeezed, the stop signal lights are switched on. 19 Kickstart lever : Designed to start the engine. Upon kicking the lever the crankshaft is actuated through the gearbox. The lever is returned to its initial position by the spring inside the gearbox. Gear shift lever: This is a heal shift type of lever. To shift up from a low gear to a high gear the rear arm(heal shift) is pressed. To shift down from a high gear to a low gear the from arm is depressed. Since the heel-toe shift lever is short-coupled, it is much easier to shift up using the heal shift, and to shift down using the toe shift with the ball of your foot. The neutral gear is between the 1st and 2nd gears. It is important to shift smoothly with a constant force, and not to kick the gear shift pedal. Serious damage may result to the shifting mechanism if the gear shift pedal is kicked, rather than pressed. NOTE: The neutral lamp will illuminate when the transmission is in neutral. (see “Starting the Engine”). Gear Shift Foot Pedal Kick Lever 20 Parking Brake Sidecar Drive Lever Rear Brake Pedal Parking Brake: Used to hold the bike when parked. To engage, press the rear brake pedal, push down and twist the parking brake lever counter clockwise. Sidecar drive engagement lever: Used to engage the drive axle to the sidecar wheel on the Patrol and Gear Up model motorcycles. WARNING: Never engage sidecar drive on concrete or hard surface. Severe damage to drivetrain will result if the sidecar drive is engaged on pavement. Rear brake lever: Actuates the rear brakes on both the motorcycle and sidecar. WARNING: DO NOT APPLY EITHER BRAKE STRONGLY ENOUGH TO LOCK THE WHEELS BECAUSE THIS MAY CAUSE POSSIBLE LOSS OF CONTROL OF THE MOTORCYCLE . ALWAYS USE BOTH BRAKES . NEVER STOP WITH FRONT OR REAR BRAKE ONLY . WARNING: AN IMPROPERLY ADJUSTED REAR BRAKE PEDAL COULD INTERFERE WITH PROPER REAR BRAKE OPERATION RESULTING IN POOR BRAKE ACTION

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Harley-Davidson Motorcycle Reverse Gear Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 31-10-2010

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2.1 Obtain a small tube of Loctite® #262 (red) for use later. 2.2 Drain the transmission oil. 2.3 Remove the clutch adjustment cover (left side). 2.4 Remove rear exhaust header pipe (cross over exhaust pipe). 2.5 Remove the muffler support bracket. 2.6 Remove the clutch release cover (right side). 2.7 Remove clutch push rod and oil slinger. To be disassembled and modified later. 2.8 Remove the two nuts from the main (rear) and counter (front) transmission shafts. 2.9 Remove the transmission bearing housing (puller available from Champion Sidecars). To be replaced with new reverse gear transmission bearing housing (Trap Door). 2.10 Cover the exposed gears in the transmission with a cloth in preparation to cut the shifter fork shaft. 3 Install New Main and Countershaft Gears NOTE: Gears and Tapered Split Rings are factory matched sets. Do not mix!. 3.1 Locate the shifter fork rod, mark fork rod flush at transmission case and pull out 1/4″. Figure 1 Figure 2. Exposed Shoulders Mark shifter fork rod flush with case Remove Spacers Vehicle Transmission Counter Shaft Main Shaft Front of Motorcycle Figure 1
Reverse Gear Installation Instructions For EVO / 5 Speed and Twin Cam Harley-Davidson® Motorcycle Page 3 of 6 Revision 7 © 2007 Champion Motorcycle Accessories International, Inc. dba Champion Sidecars 11841 Monarch Street Garden Grove, CA 92841 (800) 875-0949 (714) 847-0949 www.championsidecars.com www.championtrikes.com Figure 6 CAUTION: Do not pull the shifter fork rod out of the transmission more than 1/4″. If you pull the shifter fork rod out too far, it will be difficult to realign it with the internal shifter fork. 3.2 Cut the shaft at the mark and push it back in. The shaft end MUST NOT stick out of the transmission case. If the shaft is in deeper, fill the hole with silicone to prevent the shaft from moving in and out. NOTE: Shifter fork is made of non-tempered metal and may be cut with a hacksaw or Dremel® cutting tool. 3.3 Important: Remove stock spacers from main and counter shafts. Spray with silicon remover (Brake-Clean) then, using supplied cleaning pad, clean shafts, new counter and main shaft gears and tapered lock rings (inside and outside) Figure 1 3.4 With motorcycle in neutral, pull both the shafts out and simultaneously push the OEM outermost gears in until seated completely to expose the shoulders of both shafts. The countershaft shoulder should be flush with the gear face. For the main shaft the gear would “hang over” the shoulder a small bit. Figure 2 3.5 Apply supplied Champion Super-Lock retaining compound to the inside and outside surfaces of the large gear tapered split ring, to the inside of the new countershaft gear (large gear) and to the transmission countershaft (the forward most shaft). 3.6 Install new countershaft gear to the transmission countershaft. Insert tapered split ring (tapered end first) into the countershaft gear. Install ring seat tool and spring to counter shaft and new countershaft gear. Torque ring seat tool to 40 ft-lb’s. Figures 3 and 4

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Moto Guzzi Sport 1100i Owners Manual

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Filed Under (Moto Guzzi) by admin on 29-11-2010

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General features Identification data Instruments and controls Riding your motorcycle Break-in Maintenance and adjustments Wheel removal Service schedule Cleaning – Storing Cleaning the windscreen Lubrication Valve gear WEBER injectionignition system (I.A.W.) Electrical equipment Wiring diagram Illustrations Lubrication Pressure fed by gear pump. Oil filters: wire mesh inside sump and replaceable cartridge filter outside sump. Normal lubrication pressure 3.8Ö 4.2 [5] kg/cm2, pressure valve, thermostat and cooler. Low oil pressure sensor (electrical) on crankcase. Generator/Alternator On front of crankshaft (1 4V – 25A). Ignition “WEBER MARELLI” electronic digital induced discharge, with high efficiency coil. Spark plugs: Spark plug gap: 0,7 mm. SPORT 1100 DAYTONA R NGK BPR 6 ESI NGK DR9 E IMS Starting Electric starter (12V-1,2 kW) with solenoid engagement. Ring gear bolted on flywheel. Starter button (START) on right of handlebars. Driveline data Clutch Twin driven plates, dry type, on flywheel. Hand controlled by lever on left of handlebars. Primary drive By gears. Ratio: 1 to 1.3529 (tooth ratio 17/23). Gearbox 5-speed, with constantly meshed gears with front dog clutch. Incorporated cush drive. Pedal operated on the left side of the motorcycle. Gear ratios: Low gear = 1 to 1,812 (tooth ratio 16/29) 2nd gear = 1 to 1,250 (tooth ratio 20/25) 3rd gear = 1 to 1 (tooth ratio 23/23) 4th gear = 1 to 0,833 (tooth ratio 24/20) 5th gear = 1 to 0,730 (tooth ratio 26/19) Ratio: 1:4,125 (tooth ratio 8/33) Overall gear ratios (Engine-wheel): Low gear = 1 to 10,1150 2nd gear = 1 to 6,9761 3rd gear = I to 5,5809 4th gear = 1 to 4,6507 5th gear = 1 to 4,0783 Frame Rectangular section single-beam in NiCrMo steel. Semisupporting engine base. Suspensions Front: White Power upside-down hydraulic telescopic fork with individually adjustable rebound and compression; Rear: steel swing arm with oval cross section. Single shock absorber White Power with separate adjustment of spring preload and of hydraulic rebound and compression damping. Wheels Light alloy castings with 3 hollow spokes (rear wheel with cush drive unit). Rim sizes: – front: 3,50x 17 MT H2 – rear: 4,50×17 MT H2 Tires -front: 120/70 ZR 17 – rear: 160/70 ZR 17 [160/60 ZR 17] Type: Tubeless Front: two Brembo drilled semi-floating disc brakes in stainless steel for SPORT I 100; [two Brembo drilled floating discs, Racing type for DAYTONA RS] with fixed 4 differential piston calipers. Adjustable manual control lever on the right side of the handle-bar; – disc 320 mm;

COMPUFIRE 1084 GEAR SETS INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 26-11-2010

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1. Remove the seat and disconnect the cables at the battery. Remove the ground cable first and then the positive (+) cable. 2. Drain the oil in the outer primary case and remove the outer primary cover following instructions in the Factory Shop manual. 3. Bend the tab on the jackshaft bolt away from the bolt head. Remove the starter pinion gear with the jackshaft bolt, lock plate and washer. 4. Remove the clutch assembly using the procedure found in the Factory Shop manual. 5. Remove the original equipment ring gear from the clutch basket by drilling out the rivets with a 5/16-inch drill bit. Drill through the rivet head and tap the ring gear off the clutch basket using a hammer. 6. Drill out the six holes in the clutch basket with the 5/16-inch drill bit. RING AND STARTER PINION GEAR INSTALLATION 1. Attach the new 84-tooth ring gear to the clutch basket using the six 5/16×24 socket head cap screws supplied. NOTE… The bevel side of the ring gear (identified by the three dots) faces away from the starter motor. Torque the socket head cap screws to 29 ft lbs. 2. Assemble and install the primary drive assembly following the instructions in the factory Shop manual. 3. Install the new 10-tooth pinion gear with the jackshaft bolt, lock plate and thrust washer. Torque the jackshaft bolt to 7 – 9 ft lbs. Bend the lock tab on the lock plate against a flat on the jackshaft bolt head. 4. Measure and adjust the air gap between the ring gear and the pinion gear. See Fig-1 . The correct gap is .075 – .125 inch. If the gap is larger than .125 inch, use the supplied shim washers inside the jackshaft coupler. See Fig-2 . If the air gap is smaller than .075 inch, the jackshaft must be shortened by removing material from the splined end of the shaft. See Fig-3 . 5. Install the outer primary cover following instructions in the Factory Shop manual and refill the primary case with the proper amount of primary oil. 6. Re-install the battery cables in the reverse order they were removed. Re-install the seat

HARLEY-DAVIDSON BIG TWINS COMPUFIRE 1084 GEAR SETS INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 26-11-2010

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1. Remove the seat and disconnect the cables at the battery. Remove the ground cable first and then the positive (+) cable. 2. Drain the oil in the outer primary case and remove the outer primary cover following instructions in the Factory Shop manual. 3. Bend the tab on the jackshaft bolt away from the bolt head. Remove the starter pinion gear with the jackshaft bolt, lock plate and washer. 4. Remove the clutch assembly using the procedure found in the Factory Shop manual. 5. Remove the original equipment ring gear from the clutch basket by drilling out the rivets with a 5/16-inch drill bit. Drill through the rivet head and tap the ring gear off the clutch basket using a hammer. 6. Drill out the six holes in the clutch basket with the 5/16-inch drill bit. RING AND STARTER PINION GEAR INSTALLATION 1. Attach the new 84-tooth ring gear to the clutch basket using the six 5/16×24 socket head cap screws supplied. NOTE… The bevel side of the ring gear (identified by the three dots) faces away from the starter motor. Torque the socket head cap screws to 29 ft lbs. 2. Assemble and install the primary drive assembly following the instructions in the factory Shop manual. 3. Install the new 10-tooth pinion gear with the jackshaft bolt, lock plate and thrust washer. Torque the jackshaft bolt to 7 – 9 ft lbs. Bend the lock tab on the lock plate against a flat on the jackshaft bolt head. 4. Measure and adjust the air gap between the ring gear and the pinion gear. See Fig-1 . The correct gap is .075 – .125 inch. If the gap is larger than .125 inch, use the supplied shim washers inside the jackshaft coupler. See Fig-2 . If the air gap is smaller than .075 inch, the jackshaft must be shortened by removing material from the splined end of the shaft. See Fig-3 . 5. Install the outer primary cover following instructions in the Factory Shop manual and refill the primary case with the proper amount of primary oil. 6. Re-install the battery cables in the reverse order they were removed. Re-install the seat

ULTIMA 6 SPEED BUILDERS KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 03-03-2011

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DISASSEMBLY For 5 speed gear set removal refer to your factory service manual. You willneed to remove the main drive gear, main drive gear bearings, retaining clip & countershaft needle bearings. NOTE: Removal of the shifter arm is notnecessary for 99 & earlier transmissions. NOTE: Removal of the shifter arm isnecessary for 2000 & later transmissions. After trans. housing is disassembled thoroughly clean & inspect. ASSEMBLY For 2000 & later models removal of approximately 1/4 of an inch off of the shifter arm bushing is likely required. Doing so will allow installation of the retaining clip & washer onto the shifter arm. It is good practice to double check how much material should be removed before cutting the bushing. See fig. 1 & 2 Install supplied Main drive gear bearings & countershaft needle bearings using special tool # 97-164 NOTE: Lightly coat bearings with assembly lube or gear oil for easier installation. Install supplied Main drive gear retaining clip & verify that it is fully seated and cannot come out. Do not re-use old bearings or retaining clip. Install supplied Main drive gear into bearings using special tool # 97-166 See fig. 3 Install supplied trap door gasket & verify that it is on correctly. Install supplied 6 speed gear set making sure to align the countershaft with the needle bearing assembly. Slowly slide in gear set until the mainshaft & countershaft will not slide in any further. Lightly tapping on the trap door (while verifying that there is no interference) with a soft blow hammer will then fully seat the shafts & trap door. See fig. 4 Once gear set is installed use the supplied 5/16-18×1-1/2 & 1/4-20×1-1/2 bolts to secure the trap door. Torque the 5/16 bolts to 15 ft-lbs w/ red loctite (high strength) Torque the 1/4 bolts to 9 ft-lbs w/ red loctite (high strength) See fig. 5

Ural carburetors Installation and idle adjustment

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Filed Under (Ural) by admin on 02-11-2010

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1. First you must adjust the idle. It is acceptable per the manual to adjust the idle by using the idle adjust screws (11). This usually involves screwing them then backing out 1 to 1.5 turns. Or you can adjust looking at the sliders 2. If installing the carburetors: a. Remove the cover (2) b. Reomve the slider (3) c. Place the throttle cable through the guide (18) with the spring (4) on the cable. d. Route the cable through the slide catch (6) e. Insert the slide assembly into the chamber and make sure it easily slides up and down. Direct the needle (8) into the opening of the diffuser (angled side visible). f. Screw assembly together and verify via throttle movement that slide moves freely. Attach fuel delivery lines to (12). 3. Using the idle set screw (11) raise the slider so the lower edge is 1-2 mm. 4. Assemble to engine using the proper gaskets (paper – felt – paper). 5. Using the locknut (26) adjust the free play of the throttle cable (2-3 mm) 6. Adjust the idle mixture screw – turn in completely then out 1 to 1.5 turns 1. Remove one of the spark plug caps, and with the cap shorted, adjust (11) to decrease RPM’s to a point of being minimally steady. 2. Adjust the mixture (15) out until RPM’s decrease. Turn in until RPM’s increase slightly. Then turn in screws ¼ to 1/3 revoultion. 3. Do the same for the second carburetor with the first spark plug cap shorted. 4. With both cylinders, adjust each idle (11) on each carburetor the same amount each until it’s at a steady, minimal RPM. Use small changes. (at this point you can use your airflow tool to check). 5. Sharply increase, then decrease throttle. Then engine must return to low RPMs smoothly. If the engine goes below limits, readjust (11) from step 4. Synchronization of the K68 Note: Rather than using the opposite cylinder shorted to test the pull of the live cylinder carburetor, you can use something like a Twinmax connected to the test ports (27 Fig 1). Or, if you have a model without these ports, use a Synchrometer (Appendix 2) held against the face of the carburetor. These tools merely show airflow passing through each carburetor (which is dependent on the position and wear on the slide). If using these tools, it’s not necessary to do the following steps. You wil want to use a throttle guide (Appendix 1), to show airflow at various throttle settings. Using the flow meter of your choice make sure each carburetor is the same at the various throttle settings. 1. Place the motorcycle on the center stand ensuring the rear wheel is suspended 2. Make sure you have large area to work with (safety issues here) 3. Shift into the highest gear with the engine running 4. Short one spark plug cap to the cylinder (using a nail or something in the fins) 5. Increase the speed to 40-50 km/hr 6. Fix the throttle using the throttle (maybe using a throttle stop screw under the throttle housing). 7. Reconnect other cylinder and using the opposite carburetor determine the speed which should be the same as the first. 8. Adjust the position of this slide to achieve the referenced speed using the locknut at the top of the carburetor.

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