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Yamaha YZ 250F Camshafts REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 30-12-2011

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Remove the 4 bolts that hold the exhaust cam cap in place, lift the cam cap off. It may be necessary to pry very lightly on the cap to lift it off its dowel pins. Do not use the cam lobes as the pry point. Be careful not to drop the dowels and also be careful to not lose the half moon shaped retainer for the bearing under the cam cap. Remove the 6 bolts that hold the intake camshaft cap and lift the cam cap off the camshaft, again, be careful to not drop the retainer or dowels. Lift the intake camshaft out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting. Remove the cam chain from the sprocket, set the stock camshaft aside. Lift the exhaust cam out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting and remove the chain from the sprocket. Do not drop the cam chain, dangle it over the side of the engine while keeping slight upward pressure on the chain to maintain its position on the drive sprocket on the crankshaft. Fit the half moon shaped retainers in the grooves of the Hot Cams camshaft bearings to ensure good fit, set retainers aside for the time. Using assembly lube, lube the shim buckets, bearing surfaces for the camshafts in the cylinder head, and pack some in the camshaft bearings. Set the exhaust cam into the cylinder head casting while at the same time fitting the cam chain over the sprocket. Make sure that you keep all the cam chain slack to the back of the engine. The cam chain pulls the camshaft sprockets in a counter clockwise direction and the slack of the chain must be kept on the cam chain tensioner side of the engine. The exhaust cam has two timing marks on it. When correctly installed one mark will be at the 9 o’clock position and the other mark will be at the 12 o’clock position. When correctly timed the mark at 9 o’clock will be aligned with the valve cover gasket surface. Repeat the above process for the intake camshaft. Again, make sure you keep the chain slack to the cam chain tensioner side of the engine. Check to be sure the crankshaft is still at TDC. The intake cam has two timing marks also. One at 12 o’clock and the other at 3 o’clock. When both cams are installed correctly, the valve cover gasket surface will form a straight line through the exhaust timing mark at 9 o’clock and the intake timing mark at 3 o’clock

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Yamaha YZ400/426F Camshafts REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 01-01-2012

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Cleanliness is always a good place to start. Make sure the motorcycle is cleaned thoroughly before you start. It would be advisable to use an engine degreaser on the frame and the engine. This will ensure a clean engine during the assembly process and less of a chance of thread damage and/or dirt contamination in the engine during reassembly. And as always, replace any fiber-based gasket that was moved in any way, i.e.: cam chain tensioner. You will need basic hand tools and a torque wrench, machine towels (rags), some cleaning solvent, and a cam chain tensioner gasket. And the Hot Cams’ Degree Wheel Kit if you so desire. We will start by removing the tank and seat, top engine mount, and the cam cover. Remove the crankshaft cap and timing hole cap on the left engine case cover. Remove the spark plug. Rotate the engine in a counter clockwise (CCW) direction. Position the engine on top dead center (TDC) using the mark on the flywheel or better yet a degree wheel using a positive stop. Be sure to notice that the intake valves were the last to move, this will ensure the engine of being on “true” TDC. True top dead center occurs when both the intake and exhaust valve are closed when the piston is at TDC. This is technically the end of the compression stroke and the Page 1
beginning of the power stroke. The “artificial” TDC is during the overlap when both the intake and exhaust valves would be open. Note the positioning of the cam lobes (their included angle will be close to 170 degrees), this will help during the installation of your new Hot Cams camshafts Remove the cap bolt on the end of the cam chain tensioner block, be aware of the copper washer. Release the spring tension on the cam chain tensioner by turning the flat blade screw slot inside the adjuster block in a clockwise (CW) direction; it will lock in the retracted position. Remove the two 8mm headed bolts that hold the cam chain tensioner to the cylinder block. Remove and discard the gasket. Remove the 4 bolts that hold the exhaust cam cap in place, lift the cam cap off. It may be necessary to pry very lightly on the cap to lift it off its dowel pins. Do not use the cam lobes as the pry point. Be careful not to drop the dowels and also be careful to not lose the half moon shaped retainer for the bearing under the cam cap. Remove the 6 bolts that secure the intake cam cap and lift the cam cap off the camshaft, again, be careful to not drop the retainer or dowels. Lift the intake camshaft out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting. Remove the cam chain from the sprocket, set the stock camshaft aside. Lift the exhaust camshaft out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting and remove the chain from the sprocket. Do not drop the cam chain, dangle it over the side of the engine while keeping slight upward pressure on the chain to maintain its position on the drive sprocket on the crankshaft

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Kawasaki KFX KLX 400 Camshafts Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Remove the plug bolt from the back of the cam chain tensioner assembly. It is under pressure from the spring. Remove the spring and pin. Remove the bolts and tensioner assembly from the cylinder. Release the lock on the tensioner assembly and push the tensioner rod into the assembly so that it is fully retracted. Remove the eight 5mm Allen headed bolts that hold the cam caps in place. Remove the cam caps; be aware of the locating dowels in the caps to keep them from falling into the engine. It may be necessary to pry very lightly on the caps to lift them off their dowel pins. Do not use the cam lobe as the pry point. Lift the intake camshaft out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting. Remove the cam chain from the sprocket, set the stock camshaft aside. Lift the exhaust cam out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting and remove the chain from the sprocket. Do not drop the cam chain; dangle it over the side of the engine while keeping slight upward pressure on the chain to maintain its position on the drive sprocket on the crankshaft. Using assembly lube, lube the shim buckets and bearing surfaces for the camshafts in the cylinder head. Set the exhaust camshaft into the cylinder head casting while at the same time fitting the cam chain over the sprocket. Make sure that you keep all the cam chain slack to the back of the engine. Repeat the above process for the intake camshaft. Again, make sure you keep the chain slack to the cam chain tensioner side of the engine. Check to be sure the crankshaft is still at TDC. Check the location of the cam lobes. The camshafts are marked, and preset to 108-degree centers. If the lobes are not where they should be, adjust the positioning of the camshaft by rotating the sprocket one tooth on the chain. Do this until it is in the correct position as before you removed the camshafts. Check the positioning of the crankshaft for the TDC mark

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BMW R850, R1100, R1150, R1200 Oilhead Maintenance Manual

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 16-11-2010

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cold Engine and Drivetrain Procedures Check Alternator Belt Tools Parts T-handle hex – 4mm none Note: In most cases the alternator belt does not need to be checked any more. Early models should have the pulley and belt upgrade that came out a few years ago. Current recommendations are that the belt is installed and adjusted, then not disturbed until 36K when replacement is specified. 1. Remove the four bolts holding the black plastic alternator belt cover at the front of the engine, 4mm T-handle hex. 2. Remove the cover by sliding it straight down. 3. Check the belt for cracks or shredding. 4. Check the belt tension, quite tight, ~1/4″ deflection when you press on the center. Note: Paul Glaves suggests that proper belt tension is when you can twist the belt ~90 degrees, midway between the pulleys. If you can twist it more than 90 degrees, it is too loose. If you cannot twist it 90 degrees, then it is too tight. 5. Leave the cover off for the valve adjustment procedure on the next page. Change Alternator Belt Tools Parts T-handle hex – 4mm alternator belt socket – 13mm ratchet wrench – 13mm torque wrench 1. Remove the four bolts holding the black plastic alternator belt cover at the front of the engine, 4mm T-handle hex. 2. Remove the cover by sliding it straight down. 3. Loosen the 2 nuts and 1 bolt, 13mm, that hold the alternator – one is on top and one is on each side, thus allowing the alternator to pivot down. 4. Remove the old belt. (Some bikes have a pipe that traps the belt – loosen it enough to get the old belt out and the new belt in) 5. Install the new belt being sure it is properly seated. 6. BMW calls for a tensioning torque of 5.9 ft.lb. (8 Nm) on the adjuster bolt on the left side of the bike. You have to get at this bolt from the alternator side and you may have to lift the tank. Alternatively, you can pry the alternator up with a large screwdriver to tension the belt. 7. Once the belt is under proper tension, tighten the 2 nuts and 1 bolt, 13mm, to 15 ft.lb. (20 Nm). 8. Check the belt for proper tension (see above) and proper seating alignment

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BMW K 1300 S, K 1300 R and K 1300 GT SPECIFICATION

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 17-11-2010

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The K 1300 S with 175 hp, the K 1300 R with 173 hp and the K 1300 GT with 160 hp. The new K bikes feature updated transmission and clutch assembly, plus smoother engine performance and new switchgear. Von Kuenheim continues: “By raising capacity to 1300 cc, our engineers have not only increased output but also torque on all three models. At the same time the driveline was intensively revised from air/fuel mixture formation right through to the exhaust system. In this way we have been able to optimize partial load behavior as well as throttle response. Now the clutch can be operated with even less effort and with greater refinement. Shifting has been improved tangibly due to constructional changes to the gearbox and drive.” BMW is introducing new options for the 2009 as well. The popular Electronic Suspension Adjustment that first appeared on the 2005 K 1200 S has now been updated with even more on-the-fly adjustability and it’s called ESA II. Also new is the quick-shifter option, racing-style gear shift assistant, borrowed from BMW’s race-ready HP2 Sport. Automatic Stability Control (ASC) is also offered as an option on the new K bikes. “Both the K 1300 S and also the R will also have the shift assistant – familiar from the HP2 Sport – available as an option for the first time,” von Kuenheim emphasized. “We have also advanced the chassis. The new lower longitudinal strut is now made of aluminum and is thus considerably lighter. This makes the front wheel guidance response even more sensitive. The result of this comprehensive development work is superior handling, improved rideability and lower fuel consumption. The electronically adjustable suspension – called ESA in short – was launched as a world first on the K 1200 S. Now we are presenting the new, well-proven ESA II as an option for the K Series. Apart from the suspension and damping this unique system also allows the spring rate to be adjusted at the press of a button. The K Series model revision also heralds a new and innovative generation of switches and controls.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON HYBRID CAM PLATE AND HIGH FLOW OIL PUMP KIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 07-02-2011

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REMOVAL To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect battery cables (negative (-) cable first) before proceeding. (00307a) Disconnect negative (-) battery cable first. If positive (+) cable should contact ground with negative (-) cable connected, the resulting sparks can cause a battery explosion, which could result in death or serious injury. (00049a) 1. Refer to the service manual and follow the instructions to remove the seat and disconnect the battery cables, negative (-) cable first. Retain all seat mounting hardware. Gasoline can drain from the carburetor fuel line when disconnected from fuel valve fitting. Gasoline is extremely flammable and highly explosive, which could result in death or serious injury. Wipe up spilled fuel immediately and dispose of rags in a suitable manner. (00256a) NOTES Installing this kit requires removal and installation of the cam support plate. Refer to the service manual for instructions with the following exception pertaining to cam compartment compo- nents: The crank and primary cam sprocket flange bolts are specially hardened, and the flat washers are of a special diameter and have ground surfaces. Use ONLY the parts provided in the Drive Gear Retention Kit (H-D Part Number 25533-99A, sold separately) when installing this kit. -J04804 1 of 7
The cr ank sprocket flange bolts and pr imary cam sproc ket flange bolts ARE NOT interchangeable. 2. Refer to the service manual to remove and discard the crank sprocket flange bolts and primary cam sprocket flange bolts and washers. 3. For 1999 models only: Refer to the service manual to remove and discard the currently installed cam drive sprocket. 4. Refer to the service manual to remove and disassemble the cams from the support plate and oil pump. Discard the support plate and oil pump. 5. For 1999 – 2000 Dyna, 2000 Softail, 1999 – 2000 Touring, and 2001 EFI Touring models only: Inspect the cams, chain, sprockets and chain tensioners for wear, and replace as needed. Refer to the service manual for inspection and replacement procedures. For 2001 – 2005 Dyna, 2001 – 2006 Softail, 2002 – 2006 Touring, and 2001 carbureted Touring models only: Inspect the cams and secondary cam chain for wear, and replace as needed. Refer to the service manual for inspection and replacement procedures. The primary cam chain, primary sprockets and both tensioners will be replaced by new components from the kit. For ALL models and years: Discard the guide, as it will not be used. INSTALLATION 1. ALL models: See Figure 1. Obtain the new Rear Cam Roller Bearing Kit (H-D Part Number 8983) from inside the Cam Service Kit (H-D Part Number 17045-99C, purchased separately), and install as indicated in Step 2. NOTE See Figure 2. If not enough of the splined shaft is exposed to install the sprocket, omit the spacer (4) and proceed to Step 2e. When the bearing inner race is started onto the machined area, remove the flange bolt (5), flat washer (6) and sprocket, then assemble using the spacer (4). Repeat Step 2e to fully install bearing inner race. To center thrust washer, be sure o-ring is installed in relief groove. Damage to bearing cage and engine can occur if thrust washer is not centered. (00473b) 2. See Figure 1. Install the O-ring (5), thrust washer (4) and bearing inner race (3) onto the rear camshaft as follows: a. See Figure 2. To properly locate the thrust washer (2), install the O-ring (3) in the grinding relief groove on the splined end of the rear camshaft between the machined area and the secondary cam sprocket.

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Harley-Davidson Twin Cam Engines Cam Chain Drive System Installation and removal MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 27-03-2012

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Removing the Cam Chain Drive System. NOTES Changing camshafts and cam drives in the 2006-up Harley-Davidson® Twin Cam 88® engines is different than in pervious engines. Procedures require use • of some special tools. Installation should be done by an experienced mechanic with access to factory service manual and required tools. Tighten all fasteners to the correct specifications and in order described. Always use an accurate torque wench. • Incorrect installation can cause engine damage not covered under warranty. CAUTION Failure to install components correctly can result in sudden engine seizure. Engine seizure may result in serous injury to motorcycle operator, passenger, or others. A- Disconnect the battery ground cable to eliminate potential sparks and inadvertently engagement of the starter while working on the motorcycle. B- Remove spark plugs and pushrod cover clips. Collapse the pushrod covers to expose the pushrods. C- Safely elevate and stabilize the rear of the motorcycle. Place the transmission in high gear. Turn the rear wheel to rotate the engine until both lifters and pushrods for either cylinder are at the lowest point on the camshaft (TDC of compression stroke). Both intake and exhaust pushrods for that cylinder will be under pressure from the valve springs and will rotate with light finger pressure. NOTE: 510G camshafts may use stock style non-adjustable pushrods instead of adjustable pushrods. If installing non-adjustable pushrods, disassemble and assemble rocker boxes per H-D® instructions. All other S&S® gear driven cams require installing adjustable pushrods. As a time-saving measure, the stock pushrods can be removed with bolt cutters. Be sure to head caution and warnings of these instructions. D- Cut the pushrods for the cylinder that is at TDC with the bolt cutter and remove the pushrod covers from the engine. Rotate the engine to place the pushrods for the other cylinder at their lowest point. Cut and remove the remaining pushrods. WARNING CAUTION Cutting pushrods with a saw or cutoff wheel may result in debris entering the engine, causing engine damage not covered under warranty. WARNING Cutting pushrods without releasing spring pressure, by rotating the engine until tappets are at the lowest point of travel can result in bodily injury. E- Remove the pushrod covers and lifters form the crankcase. F- Remove engine cam cover and gasket. Secure lifers with a tool made from a large binder clip

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Harley-Davidson EMERGENCY DRIVE BELT REPLACEMENT KIT Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 24-10-2010

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1. Shift transmission to neutral. Before installation of the emergency belt, to avoid personal injury and/or vehicle damage, secure the motorcycle. Both stand and motorcycle must be on solid, level ground. Failure to follow instructions could result in death or serious injury. 2. See Figure 1. Remove spring clip (4) (if present) and loosen rear axle nut (1). 3. Loosen rear axle adjuster (3) (or adjuster nut, if so equipped) on each side of motorcycle, and move rear wheel to full forward position. 4. Remove the damaged/broken belt. 5. Inspect sprockets and belt guard (2) for damage and/or debris. Remove any debris. If sprockets and belt guard are not damaged, proceed with the installation. 6. Remove belt guard. 40171-97,40146-00 1 WARNING i06186 Figure 1. Axle 1. Axle nut 2. Belt guard 3. Adjuster 4. Spring clip 2 4 1 3 7. See Figure 2. Install feeder strip on emergency belt. 8. Feed strip around transmission sprocket in a counterclockwise direction over frame cross support. 9. See Figure 3. Interlock the “v” ends of the emergency belt. a. Insert a hex socket key in the fourth (4) and ninth (6) tooth holes. b. Place the splice block (2) over the seventh (5) tooth hole. c. Install a socket head set screw (3) in the seventh tooth. Tighten using another hex socket key. d. Move the block to the next tooth, and repeat installation steps (b) and (c) in each tooth until all 12 screws are installed. NOTE There are 16 screws included in this kit. However, only 12 screws will actually be installed in the belt. The remaining four screws are spares. 10. See Figure 4. Grasp the emergency belt at the mid point of the lower run between your thumb and forefinger and lift the belt up to take up any slack in the belt. Measure the distance that the belt deflects (2) under tension (1). When two pounds of tension is applied to the lower run of the emergency belt, the belt deflection should be within the following measurements

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MOTORCYCLE ROLLER CHAIN Maintenance and Lubrication

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 27-11-2010

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Cleaning and Relubrication Perhaps the largest contributor to shortened chain life is inadequate lubrica- tion. All working parts of a chain should be lubricated uniformly. The use of the highest viscosity oil that allows for flow between the link plates and coats pin-bushing areas will normally provide the greatest wear resistance. Apply oil to the upper edges of link plates. This allows for the greatest access of oil to pin-bushing joints. For open drives, excess lubrication on outer chain surfaces should be removed, since it will either be thrown off during operation or serve to collect foreign materials. If foreign objects or surplus lubrication accumulates on chain surfaces to the extent of making re-lubrication of the joints impossible, the chain must be cleaned. Standard roller chains may be cleaned by washing in kerosene or any other good petroleum-based solvent. WARNING: These solvents are flammable. Agitate the chain to assure penetration of the solvent and a thorough flushing of the pin-bushing areas. Drain off excess solvent and inspect bushings and pins for wear. Replace the chain if wear is excessive or parts are fractured or missing. O-ring chains may be cleaned externallyby washing in kerosene. Do not use any other cleaning agent or the O-rings may be damaged. When cleaning O- ring chain, clean only the external areas of the chain. Do not attempt to force kerosene into the pin-bush cavity. Do not try to repair a worn-out chain by replacing individual links. The pitch of the new links will be shorter and will most likely result in chain fatigue failure and/or severe sprocket damage. For chains which are still usable, soak them in SAE 40 or 50 automotive engine oil (without additives). Flexing the chain in oil will assure greater penetration of lubricant. Inspect and clean sprockets. If sprockets are worn or damaged, they should be replaced.Installing new chain on worn out sprockets will significantly shorten the chain’s service life. WARNING: always wear eye protection when assembling or disassembling chain

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BMW Poly-V Belt – R 1100 Models

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 16-11-2010

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Information: In an effort to reduce service volume, a maintenance-free ribbed Poly-V belt was adopted on all R1100 models from engine number 38946130 onwards (09/94 production onwards). This belt does not need to be retentioned (even at the 600 mile service). The old belt required replacement every 24,000 miles. The new style belt is to be replaced every 36,000 miles. Use the same torque procedure as the old belt. Replacement of an old style belt with the new maintenance free belt requires the use of the new parts below: Parts Kit: 12 31 1 342 086 (kit consists of the following) In addition to the Poly-V belt, the following parts were also changed: 1. Top pulley new: steel old: Aluminum 2. Bottom pulley new no spot welds: old: steel w/three spot welds on front 3. Belt new: Ribbed, printing on belt (1342059 Fa. Dayco) or (1341779 Fa. Conti) Slight squeaking may be heard for a short time after a cold start when temperature is below 50°F. The belt should reach it’s correct operating tension soon after the start up. The belt only needs retentioned if the slight squeaking does not stop after warm up.

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