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HONDA GL1500 Headlamp Adjustments Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 08-04-2011

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Headlamp Adjusting Procedure Tools needed • Long, slender #1 Phillips screwdriver (for adjusters behind the rubber plugs) • #2 Phillips screwdriver (for the other adjuster screw) • 12-inch square of cardboard • Flat wall or garage door • Paper, tape, marker NOTE: All adjustments are very fine. You have to turn the screws A LOT to see changes in adjustment. This procedure is best done after dark, because you will need to do some test rides. Preparation 1. Set the bike on its center stand, 10 feet away from an unobstructed wall or garage door, and square to the wall or door. 2. Remove the front fairing cover and lower vent grille to gain access to the headlamp adjusters. 3. Idle the engine or connect a battery charger to the battery, to prevent battery drain. Headlamp assembly viewed from the front, showing positions of mirrors and adjusters (pretend the lens has been removed) . Low Beam Vertical Alignment 1. With the lights on low beam, cover the right half of the lamp assembly with the cardboard square, so only the left bulb is shining on the wall. 2. Using a marker, mark the top of the left low beam on the wall (use paper taped to the wall if you don’t want to mark the wall itself) . 3. Move the cardboard so it blocks the left bulb, so only the right bulb is shining on the wall. 4. The top of the right low beam should be even with the mark you made for the left low beam. If it’s not, adjust by turning the screw behind the rubber plug at the top of the lamp assembly, using a long, slender #1 Phillips screwdriver. 5. Move the cardboard back and forth between the bulbs to verify that the low beams are at the same height. On high beam, the two hotspots should line up vertically. High Beam Vertical Adjustment 1. With the lights on high beam, note the position of the beams’ hot spots on the wall in relation to the mark you made in step 5 above. 2. Most owners complain about their low beams being too low on the roadway. To correct this, lower the high beams by turning the screw behind the rubber plug at the bottom of the headlamp assembly, using a long, slender #1 Phillips screwdriver. You can watch the high beam hot spot being lowered on the wall in relation to the mark you made. 3. Take a test ride. Get out on a dark street, and adjust the high beams using the dash knob until you like what you can see. Then switch to low beam and see how that looks. 4. Repeat these steps until you get the low beam pattern you want. Left/Right Adjustment 1. Back to the wall. Set the bike on its center stand at a distance of 25 feet from the wall and square to the wall. Center the front wheel. 2. Shine the high beams on the wall. 3. Step to the back of the bike, and level your eye with the center of the passenger backrest. Use the center of the backrest and the center of the windshield like a gunsight. The center of the hotspot of the high beam should hit the wall in this line. 4. Adjust by turning the uncovered screw at the bottom of the headlamp assembly, using a #2 Phillips screwdriver.

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SUGGESTED WIRING FOR DL35 HI/ LOW DRIVING LIGHTS

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 29-01-2011

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CHASSIS GROUND DRIVING LIGHT WHITE/LOW BROWN/PARK BATTERY 86 85 87 30 86 87a HEAD LAMP HEADLAMP/LOW HEADLAMP/HIGH SUGGESTED WIRING FOR DL35 HI/LOW DRIVING LIGHTS AMP RELAYS 30 TO FRONT SIGNAL RUNNING LIGHTS OR ANY WIRE THAT HAS POWER WITH IGNITION ON BLUE/HIGH DRIVING LIGHT BLUE/HIGH BROWN/PARK WHITE/LOW 30A FUSE 85 30 87 87a SWITCH

2007 Harley-Davidson Softail Family Specifications

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 02-11-2010

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frame Mild steel tubular frame; rectangular section backbone; stamped, cast and forged junctions; forged fender supports; MIG welded Mild steel tubular frame; rectangular section backbone; stamped, cast and forged junctions; forged fender supports; MIG welded Mild steel tubular frame; rectangular section backbone; stamped, cast and forged junctions; forged fender supports; MIG welded Swingarm Mild steel, round tube sections, forged junctions, MIG welded Mild steel, round tube sections, forged junctions, MIG welded Mild steel, round tube sections, forged junctions, MIG welded Front Fork 41.3 mm telescopic, “beer can” covers 41.3 mm telescopic, “beer can” covers 41.3 mm telescopic, “beer can” covers Rear Shocks Hidden, horizontal-mounted, coil-over Hidden, horizontal-mounted, coil-over Hidden, horizontal-mounted, coil-over Caliper Type 4-piston front and rear 4-piston front and rear 4-piston front and rear Rotor Type: (diameter x width) Patented, uniform expansion rotors Patented, uniform expansion rotors Patented, uniform expansion rotors Front 292 mm x 5.08 mm 292 mm x 5.08 mm 292 mm x 5.08 mm Rear 292 mm x 5.84 mm 292 mm x 5.84 mm 292 mm x 5.84 mm Front (mm) 130 130 130 Rear (mm) 109 109 109 Engine Torque (EU standard EC95/1)5 86 ft. lb / 117 Nm @ 3200 rpm 89 ft. lb / 120 Nm @ 3300 rpm 89 ft. lb / 120 Nm @ 3300 rpm Right 29° 30° 28° Left 26° 28° 26° Battery Sealed, maintenance-free, 12V, 19-amp/hour, 270 cca (per Battery Council International Rating) Sealed, maintenance-free, 12V, 19-amp/hour, 270 cca (per Battery Council International Rating) Sealed, maintenance-free, 12V, 19-amp/hour, 270 cca (per Battery Council International Rating ) Charging Three-Phase, 38-amp system (439W @ 13V, 2000 rpm, 489W max power @ 13V) Three-Phase, 38-amp system (439W @ 13V, 2000 rpm, 489W max power @ 13V) Three-Phase, 38-amp system (439W @ 13V, 2000 rpm, 489W max power @ 13V) Starting 1.2 kW electric with solenoid shift starter motor engagement 1.2 kW electric with solenoid shift starter motor engagement 1.2 kW electric with solenoid shift starter motor engagement Headlamp Headlamp Headlamp Quartz Halogen, 55-watt low beam, 60-watt high beam Quartz Halogen, 55-watt low beam, 60-watt high beam Quartz Halogen, 55-watt low beam, 60-watt high beam Tail/Stop Lights Tail/Stop Lights Tail/Stop Lights 8W/28W (5W/21W) 8W/28W (5W/21W) 8W/28W (5W/21W) Turn Signal Lights Turn Signal Lights Turn Signal Lights 28W (21W) self-canceling 28W (21W) self-canceling 28W (21W) self-canceling Indicator Lamps Indicator Lamps Indicator Lamps High beam, neutral, low oil pressure, turn signals, engine diagnostics, security system6, 6-speed (overdrive), low fuel warnings High beam, neutral, low oil pressure, turn signals, engine diagnostics, security system6, 6- speed (overdrive), low fuel warnings High beam, neutral, low oil pressure, turn signals, engine diagnostics, security system6, 6-speed (overdrive), low fuel warnings Passing Lamps Chrome Vivid Black Vivid Black Vivid Black Black Cherry Pearl Black Cherry Pearl Black Cherry Pearl Deep Cobalt Pearl Black Pearl Black Pearl Pewter Pearl Fire Red Pearl Deep Cobalt Pearl White Gold Pearl Deep Cobalt Pearl Olive Pearl & Vivid Black Suede Blue Pearl & Vivid Black Suede Blue Pearl White Gold Pearl & Vivid Black Black Cherry Pearl & Pewter Pearl Olive Pearl White Gold Pearl & Deep Cobalt Pearl Fire Red Pearl & Black Pearl Pacific Blue Pearl Deep Cobalt Pearl & Pewter Pearl Pewter Pearl Yellow Pearl White Gold Pearl

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Harley-Davidson The WHEELDOCK EZ-UP Center Stand Installation MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 21-03-2012

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Unlike other center stands, the WHEELDOCK EZ UP stand requires very little effort to operate and can usually be done while still on the bike by simply pushing down on the foot lever with your left foot. Once you feel both feet of the center stand in contact with the ground, transfer your weight up off of the seat and onto the foot lever of the center stand. The stand should rotate under the bike and a bit forward lifting the bike quite easily. CAUTION: Never attempt to raise the bike with a passenger on board, as you will damage the foot lever. You can also raise the bike on the center stand by using the following traditional method: Place the bike on the side stand and step off to the side. From the left side of the bike, push the bike up to the vertical position and press down on the foot lever until both feet of the stand are in contact with the ground. Now apply weight to the foot lever while lifting up on the bike. For cleaning the rear wheel: first place a ½-inch piece of plywood under the stand and use this (beside the bike) method for placing the bike up on the plywood spacer; this will allow the wheel to rotate freely for cleaning. Do not try this while on the bike, as it will require too much foot pressure on the lever. You now have two options to get the bike off of the stand: You can simply rock the bike forward, or put the bike in gear and drive off in most cases as long as you are parked on a flat, level surface. Tips for solving common questions: If you have the correct height stand and you still have difficulty getting the bike up on the stand check the following: the bike must be in neutral, the wheel should be straight forward and not cocked, do not hold the front brake lever and make sure you have 15 lb or more air pressure in the rear suspension. These are the most common problems we encounter

Harley-Davidson touring bikes WHEELDOCK EZ-UP Center Stand Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 18-04-2012

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Unlike other center stands, the WHEELDOCK EZ UP stand requires very little effort to operate and can usually be done while still on the bike by simply pushing down on the foot lever with your left foot. Once you feel both feet of the center stand in contact with the ground, transfer your weight up off of the seat and onto the foot lever of the center stand. The stand should rotate under the bike and a bit forward lifting the bike quite easily. CAUTION: Never attempt to raise the bike with a passenger on board, as you will damage the foot lever. You can also raise the bike on the center stand by using the following traditional method: Place the bike on the side stand and step off to the side. From the left side of the bike, push the bike up to the vertical position and press down on the foot lever until both feet of the stand are in contact with the ground. Now apply weight to the foot lever while lifting up on the bike. For cleaning the rear wheel: first place a ½-inch piece of plywood under the stand and use this (beside the bike) method for placing the bike up on the plywood spacer; this will allow the wheel to rotate freely for cleaning. Do not try this while on the bike, as it will require too much foot pressure on the lever. You now have two options to get the bike off of the stand: You can simply rock the bike forward, or put the bike in gear and drive off in most cases as long as you are parked on a flat, level surface. Tips for solving common problems: If you have the correct height stand and you still have difficulty getting the bike up on the stand check the following: the bike must be in neutral, the wheel should be straight forward and not cocked, do not hold the front brake lever and make sure you have 15 lb or more air pressure in the rear suspension. These are the most common problems we encounter.

Triumph T595 Daytona and T509 Speed Triple Specifications

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 06-11-2010

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1. Tachometer 8. Turn Indicator light 2. Tachometer ‘Red Zone’ 9. Low Oil Pressure Warning Light 3. Speedometer 10. High Beam Indicator Light 4. Odometer 11. Neutral Indicator Light 5. Trip Meter 12. Low Fuel Level Indicator Light 6. Trip Meter Reset Knob 13. Engine Management Malfunction 7. Coolant Temperature Gauge Indicator Light SPEEDOMETER The speedometer indicates the road speed of the motorcycle. In the speedometer face are the odometer and trip meter. The odometer shows the total distance that the motorcycle has travelled. The trip meter shows the distance travelled since the meter was last reset to zero. The trip meter can be reset to zero by rotating the reset knob situated on the left hand side of the speedometer. TACHOMETER The tachometer shows the engine speed in revolutions per minute – rpm (r/min). On the right side of the tachometer face is the ‘red zone’. Engine rpm (r/min) in the red zone is above maximum recommended engine speed and is also above the range for best performance. / f&it. ::;:%M,to %:th:’z zone as severe engme damage may NOTE The ‘Red Zone’ position for Daytona is different to that on the Speed Triple. Page 16
General Information COOLANT TEMPERATURE GAUGE The coolant temperature gauge indicates the temperature of the engine coolant. On the right -hand side of the gauge face is the ‘red zone. If the temperature gauge needle moves into the ‘red zone’ this indicates that the engine is overheating. needle enters the ‘red zone’ as severe WARNING LIGHTS I a0 INDICATORS When the indicator switch is turned to left or right, the corresponding direction indicator light flashes on and off. cl ~ LOW OIL PRESSURE: The low oil pressure warning light becomes illuminated whenever the oil pressure is dangerously low (or the ignition switch is in the ‘ON’ position with the engine not running). When the engine is running, the light will remain off when sufficient oil pressure is present. When starting the motorcycle, check that the light comes on when the ignition is in the ‘ON’ position, but goes out as soon as the engine starts A! CAUTION: Stop the engine immediately if the low oil pressure warning light comes on during normal operation. Do not restart the engine until the fault has been rectified. Severe engine damage will result from running the engine when the oil warning light is illuminated. HIGH BEAM: When the headlights are switched on and the headlight dip switch is set to ‘high beam’, the high beam warning light will illuminate. IElI NEUTRAL: The neutral warning light indicates when the transmission is in neutral (no gear selected). The warning light will illuminate when the transmission is in neutral with ignition switch in the ‘ON’ position. ml LOW FUEL: The low fuel indicator will illuminate when there are approximately 3.7 litres of fuel remaining in the tank. Et3 ENGINE MANAGEMENT SYSTEM MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LIGHT: The malfunction indicator light for the engine management system illuminates when the ignition is switched on, remains illuminated during starting, and goes out shortly after the engine starts. If the malfunction indicator light becomes illuminated during riding, a fault has occurred in the engine management system. In this case the system will switch to ‘limp-home’ mode so that riding may continue. Contact an authorised Triumph dealer as soon as possible to have the fault checked out and rectified

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PIAGGIO VESPA ACCESSORIES Top Case

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Filed Under (Vespa) by admin on 28-10-2010

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623698M0F2 Gray GTS Top Case 623698M0R7 Dragon Red GTS Top Case 623698M092 Black 94 GTS Top Case 623698M0DE Midnight Blue GTS Top Case 623698M0RI Vintage Red GTS Top Case 602959M GTS Full Chrome Kit 598979 GT/GTS Windscreen 602927M GT/GTS Top Case Bag 602935M0BR GTS Leather Seat 602938M0BR Matching Leather Backrest (for top case)
PIAGGIO VESPA ACCESSORIES – Vespa GTS cont. 23 605108M GT/GTS Flyscreen 602942M Vehicle Lock 602734M GT/GTS Floor Mat 602845M002 Electronic Alarm “E-Power” for GT/GTS

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HARLEY DAVIDSON FL SOFTAIL PROFILE LOW FRONT SUSPENSION KIT INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 30-11-2010

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Fork Spring Removal 1. Elevate and support the vehicle so the front tire is off the floor and the forks are fully extended. 4 9 3 1 10 11 2 5 6 7 8 is04004 1. Slider tube cap 2. Spacer washer 3. Oil seal 4. Clamp bolt and washer 5. Fork tube plug 6. O-ring 7. Fork spring 8. Tight-wound end of spring 9. Fork slider tube 10. Fork slider 11. Drain screw and washer Figure 1. Front Fork NOTE Remove the brake caliper from the fork slider. DO NOT remove the brake line from the caliper. 2. Remove the front wheel. See FRONT WHEEL: FLSTC/FLSTF/FLSTN in the Service Manual. 3. Remove the front fender. See FRONT FENDER in the Service Manual. 4. See Figure 1. Remove the slider tube cap (1), spacer (2) and oil seal (3) from the top of one fork side. Save the cap and spacer. The oil seal can be discarded. 5. Loosen the clamp bolt (4) and pull the fork from the brackets. 6. Repeat Steps 4 and 5 for the other fork side. -J00280 1 of 4 Wear saf ety glasses or gog gles when ser vicing f ork assembly. Do not remove slider tube caps without relieving spring preload or caps and springs can fly out, which could result in death or serious injury. (00297a) NOTE Be careful not to damage the O-ring. 7. See Figure 1. Remove the fork tube plug (5) and O-ring (6). Pull the spring (7) out of the slider tube (9). Remove the drain screw and washer (11), and drain the fork. Reinstall the drain screw and washer, and tighten to 52-78 in-lbs (5.9-8.9 Nm). 8. Repeat Step 7 for the other fork side. NOTE The Profile® Low Front Suspension Kit requires a different amount of H-D TYPE E FORK OIL than is listed in the Service Manual. NOTE Measure the oil level from the top of the fork tube with the fork spring removed and the fork fully compressed. 9. See FRONT FORK OIL in the Service Manual, but substitute the measures below. Fill the forks with Harley- Davidson TYPE E FORK OIL: • 1986 through 1999 models: •11.7 oz (345 cc) of oil, or •5.2 inch (132 mm) from top of oil level to top of tube. • 2000 and later models: •13.4 oz (396 cc) of oil, or •4.1 inch (104 mm) from top of oil level to top of tube. Fork Spring Installation 1. Insert a new Profile Low spring (7) from the kit into each slider tube (9), with the tight-wound portion (8) toward the bottom of the fork slider. NOTE Be careful not to damage the O-ring. 2. Install the fork tube plug (5) and O-ring (6) assembly into the slider tube and tighten securely. Be sure that one flat on each fork tube plug faces toward the inside of the fork. 3. Insert both fork side assemblies up through the slider covers, the fork stem and bracket, and the upper bracket. 4. Obtain two new oil seals (3), H-D Part Number 45733-48, and the spacer washers (2) and slider tube caps (1) saved earlier. Place an oil seal, followed by a spacer washer, onto each fork tube plug. 5. Insert the threads of a slider tube cap through each washer and seal, and into the fork tube plugs. Tighten to 40-60 ft- lbs (54.2-81.3 Nm). 6. Tighten the fork stem bracket clamp bolts (4) to 30-35 ft- lbs (40.7-47.5 Nm). 7. Install the front fender. See FRONT FENDER in the Service Manual. Install the front wheel and brake caliper. See FRONT WHEEL: FLSTC/FLSTF/FLSTN in the Service Manual. Jiffy Stand Removal/Installation 1. Move the jiffy stand to the retracted (up) position. Wear safety glasses or goggles when removing or installing spring. Spring tension can cause spring, attached components and/or hand tools to fly out which could result in death or serious injury. (00477c) 2. See Figure 3. Unfasten the jiffy stand leg spring (A) from the vehicle. Remove the hex bolt (B), lock washer (C), flat washer (D) and leg stop (E) from the threaded end of the jiffy stand leg. Discard the jiffy stand leg, but retain all other components. 3. Clean and inspect the jiffy stand attaching parts and mounting bracket for wear or damage. If parts replacement is necessary, refer to the Jiffy Stand section of your Service Manual for replacement procedures

HARLEY DAVIDSON SPORTSTER LOW REAR SUSPENSION KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 13-02-2011

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INSTALLATION NOTE Internal shock absorber components are not repairable beyond the Service Parts listed on this instruction sheet. Consult your Harley-Davidson dealer if further service is required. The installation procedures for this kit are the same as the original equipment (OE) installation procedures in the Service Manual. Refer to the appropriate Service Manual for the rear suspension system removal and installation procedures. The OE hardware will be re-used in the kit installation. Installation of any accessory suspension components can affect cornering clearance. This could distract the rider, causing loss of control and death or serious injury. (00431b) SHOCK PRELOAD (SPRING) ADJUSTMENT Refer to the appropriate Service Manual for spring adjustment. Spanner wrench (94700-52L) is required for spring adjustment. SERVICE PARTS 1 is04854 Figure 1. Service Parts: Sportster Low Rear Suspension Kit Table 1. Service Parts: Sportster Low Rear Suspension Kit Part Number Description (Quantity) Item 54734-04 Rear shock (2)

1981-1983 Yamaha Virago 750 & 920 Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 11-02-2012

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Start by loosening the rear cylinder down tube bolt located on the top of the old mufflers center collector in front of the rear tire. 2. Remove both of the front cylinder exhaust pipe head nuts and set them to the side for reuse with the MAC exhaust system. 3. Remove the right side passenger’s foot peg. Set the foot peg aside as you will need to reinstall it. 4. Remove the left side passenger’s foot peg. Set this foot peg aside as it will also need to be reinstalled. Note: When you remove this bolt the entire exhaust system will be loose and may fall. You will need to support the old exhaust at this point to keep from injuring yourself. Gently move the old exhaust system side to side to remove it from the rear cylinder down tube. Once the exhaust system is loose from the down tube remove the system from under the Virago. 5. Remove the bolt holding the rear brake pedal in place and remove the brake pedal from the motorcycle. Note: Set both the bolt and the pedal aside for reinstallation. 6. Next loosen the nut on the drivers right foot peg, 1 full turn to start with. Then remove the rear nut on the same foot peg. (Note: The bolt that this nut is on goes completely through the motorcycle. This is the center stand mounting bolt.) Now remove the front nut and set both aside for reuse with the MAC system. 7. Install the center stand stop bracket under the left passenger foot peg. Install this bracket with the 90° bend facing down and towards the rear tire. (Note: Center stand sop bracket in provided in the hardware kit and is approx. 5″ long with a 90° bend in it.) Adjust the bracket by one of the large bolts through the foot peg then through the bracket and then install it into the stock location. Put on one of the washers and a nut and snug up the nut. Lower the center stand until the center stand come in to contact with the bottom of the bracket. Tighten the nut until it will hold the bracket securely. 8. Install the rear down tube clamp onto the rear muffler and install the medium sized nut/bolt/washer onto the clamp just finger tight. 9. Install the (2) small bolts into the channel bracket on the rear muffler. Install the rear mounting bracket onto the two bolts and then install the washers and nuts onto each. Tighten the (2) nuts only slight amount so that you can slide the bracket front to rear to insure that when you install the bracket you position it properly. 10. Slide the rear pipe onto the rear down tube about ¼”to ¾” past the pre-cut slots on the rear muffler pipe. Slightly snug the clamp making sure that the position of the bolt and nut will not interfere with any moving parts. The final position of this bolt can hit the tire if it is not positioned properly. 11. Install the other large bolt into the right passenger and then through the top hole in the rear muffler mounting bracket. Insert the bolt into the stock location and install the washer and the nut. 12. Align the rear muffler and you can then tighten the nuts on the rear muffler mounting bracket, the cylinder down tube and the right side passenger foot peg.
13. Install the front muffler on the rear most mounting bolt of the drivers foot peg and put the stock nut back onto the bolt. Hand tighten the bolt only at this time. Note: Install the nut at this time is only to support the muffler and to insure that the pipe does not fall on the ground while you complete the next step. 14. Lift the front head pipe into position and start the stock nuts onto the studs. It is strongly recommended that you install new exhaust gasket at this time. Note: The new exhaust gaskets are not included in the kit but are available at your local Yamaha Dealer. After gaskets are installed hand tighten the front head pipe. 15. Remove the nut from the drivers foot peg bolt and reinstall the drivers foot peg. Note: Hand tighten only at this time. 16. Finish tightening the nuts on the front head pipes. (Install these nuts according to Yamaha’s Factory specifications.) Once the nuts are tightened on the head pipe you can then tighten the drivers foot peg nuts. 17. Reinstall the rear brake pedal and tighten the bolt that holds it on to factory specifications. 18. Check all of the bolts that you have installed of removed to insure that they are tight. 19. Start the motorcycle and check for any leaks. 20. You are finished with your new MAC Exhaust System.

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