drawing and labelling of moldboard ridger

You search Auto repair manual PDF drawing and labelling of moldboard ridger, if there are search results will appear below. If search results do not exist, please search by others keyword.



  drawing and labelling of moldboard ridger Direct Download speed 5282 Kb/s

  drawing and labelling of moldboard ridger Full Version speed 6162 Kb/s



2007 Kawasaki ZX6R Full System Installation

0

Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 05-11-2010

download
1. Remove the faring lowers (save STD bolts for reuse) , side faring (save STD bolts for reuse) , seat faring (save front 2 STD bolts for reuse) and right silencer cover. 2. Detach the turn signal assy, (unplug the cable coupler of turn signal and brake light at the same time) 3. Remove the radiator under bracket and lightly unscrew the radiator mounting bolt. Move the radiator forward. This will make you to have enough room for detaching exhaust pipes and flange nuts. Then, take off the standard headpipes. Detach the cable of the exhaust device and l eave servomotor stayed in the motorbody. (save (3) STD bolt and nut and (8) flange nuts for reuse) 4. Assemble the enclosed head pipes 1,2,3 and 4 by matching the 4-2-1 joint. Do not install the exhaust springs at this time. Lightly attach the assembled head pipe sections to the exhaust ports. Make sure the ends of the head pipes fit snug in the ports. 5. Install the tail joint and tail pipe to the joints. Do not install the exhaust springs yet. Jiggle the whole assemble for better fitting. Lightly attach the tail pipe by standard bolt and nut saved in step 3, but do not tighten the bolt fully. (see Image 1) *Recommend to use new gasket to prevent from leaking the exhaust. *Lightly screw the (8) STD flange nuts saved in step 3. * Cylinder number is 1, 2, 3 and 4 from the left hand side with you on the motorbike. 6. Attach enclosed silencer stay A to the place where the standard silencer mounted by (2) STD bolts and nuts saved in step 3. Reinstall the seat faring and penetrate the (2) 5x45mm to the hole of a seat faring mounted. Fix the Silencer stay A by enclosed (2) M5 nuts and (2) aluminum collar using the thread of penetrated M5x45bolts. (see Image 2 and drawing 1) Image 2 7. Insert the TiForce silencer to the tail pipe. Put silencer band and band rubber to the assembled silencer stay A by enclosed (2) M8x20mm bolt and (2) M8 washer. (see drawing 1) 8. Attach the supplied springs to all the joints. Use a spring puller to prevent damage to the springs that could lead to future failure. Put the radiator back to the original position. 9. Attach the L and R license number stay to the silencer stay A. (see Image 3) (see drawing 1) 10. Reinstall the firings detached in step 1. Attach the right silencer cover to the frame by using enclosed faring stay and (1) M6x20mm. (see drawing 1) 11. Make sure the exhaust system is free and clear of the faring. If necessary, adjust for proper clearance.. Removed the fairings reinstalled in step 10. 12. Securely tighten all fasteners in this order (from exhaust pipe flange to silencer stay) Image 3 14. Attach the turn signal assy detached in step 2 to the license number stay. (Use (4) M6x15mm) (See Image 4) Plug the cable couplers.

HARLEY DAVIDSON FLSTS MUD FLAP KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

0

Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 14-02-2011

download
Installation For installation on rear fender with marker light: 1. Cut out Rear Fender Template. 2. Use a paper punch to punch out holes marked A and C . Holes A are the locations of the marker light screws, and hole C is the location of the marker light wiring. Cut along centerline of template from top down to hole C . 3. Remove light lens by carefully pressing down on top center of light to disengage tab. 4. Remove the two screws, washers, and nuts that hold the marker light assembly in place and carefully pull the light assembly away from the fender. Disconnect the wire connector and remove the light assembly. 5. Slip template over marker light wires, align holes marked A with marker light holes, and align lower edge of template with lower edge of fender. Tape template in place. 6. Prick punch holes marked B at indicated centers on template. 7. Carefully, and as accurately as possible, drill holes marked B in two steps. First drill holes with a 1/16″ drill, then finish holes with a 7/32″ drill. 8. See Service Parts illustration. Place the mud flap and reinforcement inside fender and secure outer holes with buttonhead screws (3), washers (6), and locknuts (7) contained in kit. The mud flap is split to fit around light assembly wires. 9. Using the longer panhead screws provided in the kit, install fender tip light and check that light is operational. For installation on rear fender without marker light: 1. Using a high quality masking tape, mask the lower three inches of the middle of the fender for the purpose of drawing a centerline on the fender. 2. Using a machinist’s square, locate the centerline of the fender by measuring in from each side of the fender flats. Mark the centerline on the masking tape. 3. Cut out Rear Fender Template. 4. Align centerline of template with centerline drawn on fender. Align lower edge of template with lower edge of fender. Tape template in place. 5. Prick punch holes marked B and C at indicated centers on template. 6. Carefully, and as accurately as possible, drill holes marked B and C in two steps. First drill holes with a 1/16″ drill, then finish holes with a 7/32″ drill. 7. See Service Parts illustration. Place the mud flap and reinforcement inside fender and secure with buttonhead screws (3), washers (5 and 6), and locknuts (7) contained in kit. For installation on front fender (FLSTS only): 1. Using a high quality masking tape, mask the lower three inches of the middle of the fender for the purpose of drawing a centerline on the fender. 2. Using a machinist’s square, locate the centerline of the fender by measuring in from each side of the fender flats. Mark the centerline on the masking tape. 3. Cut out Front Fender Template. 4. Align centerline of template with centerline drawn on fender. Align lower edge of template with lower edge of fender. Tape template in place. 5. Prick punch holes at indicated centers on template. 6. Carefully, and as accurately as possible, drill holes marked in two steps. First drill holes with a 1/16″ drill, then finish holes with a 7/32″ drill. 7. See Service Parts illustration. Place the mud flap and reinforcement inside fender and secure with buttonhead screws (3), washers (5 and 6), and locknuts (7) contained in kit

Incoming search terms:

GAS VENT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

0

Filed Under (S&S) by admin on 29-10-2010

download
1. Appliances . Carefully review the appliance manufacturer’s installation instructions for positioning the unit, any special venting or connector requirements, and verify that it is a Category I appliance or an appliance that requires the use of Type B gas vent. 2. Placement . The placement of the vent and fittings must be in accordance with Local Codes, as well as accepted venting practices. If more than one appliance is to be connected to one venting system, the common vent must be correctly sized. It is a good idea to make a sketch of the proposed installation, labelling the components you will need. Adjustable Pipe Lengths are available to make up odd lengths. Minimize the number of turns and lateral runs, as the National Fuel Gas Code places limitations on these. A 45° turn is preferable to a 90° turn. The appliance reference material should be consulted at this time, as well as any Local Authority having jurisdiction. In most localities, building permits are required for any new appliances, or modifications to existing venting systems.
3 3. Figures 1 , 2, & 3 show examples of some typical residential installations . 4. Clearance to Combustibles . A 1-inch clearance (air space) to combustible materials must be maintained , when using Simpson Dura-Vent Round B- Vent, regardless of the pipe diameter. 5. Combustion Air . Refer to appliance installation instructions and local building codes to ensure compliance with required volume of combustion air for each appliance installed . 6. Slope . If the venting system contains lateral (horizontal) components, they shall be positioned so they have an upwards slope away from the appliance of not less than 1/4- inch rise per foot of run. (Horizontal vent installed in attics, unconditioned area, or between floors have further restrictions, please consult your local building codes for specific limitations.)

AJS Fork Seal and Top Bush Removal Repair/ Service Procedure

0

Filed Under (AJS) by admin on 31-10-2010

download
For those of you, like me (writes old Tom, of the doughty Bristol Section), who have to dismantle the front forks, and have got to the stage when the seals and bush have to be removed… Here the workshop manual states that a swift jerk or upward movement of the stanchion should shock out the seal and bush. It is more likely that nothing happens! I have always managed to remove the seals and bush by the following method: Obtain one block of wood 3″ x 3″ or 4″ x 3″ and 5″ long. Drill a hole 1 1/8″ or 1 ¼” and then saw the wood in half along the centre line of the hole. Glue in two pieces of emery cloth to aid grip on your stanchion. Place into a vice with a dummy tube of the right diameter (same as your fork leg) and leave for the glue to set the emery cloth into place. Then obtain two pieces of hardwood or 1″ ply, 8″ x 6″ and drill 1 1/8″ or 1 ¼” hole in centre. Also obtain a piece of hardwood 1ft x 6″ x 1″ and cut to form two wedges as shown in the drawing. To use the withdrawal jig, place the two large blocks over the inner stanchion to butt against the lower stanchion. Now fit the two halves of the split block inner stanchion. Clamp the split blocks in a vice while a colleague tensions the rebound spring. The wedges are now placed between the larger blocks and the lower stanchions, which is heated to aid removal. Drive in the wedges to push the lower stanchion away from the fixed inner stanchion

1928 AJS Installation Instruction Manual

0

Filed Under (AJS) by admin on 31-10-2010

download
Oil delivered at “6″ goes to the big end, while that delivered at “5″ goes up to the cam box. The bottom end of the plunger also has a slot, which registers alternately with inlet ” 7 ” and outlet ” 8,” and is responsible for returning the oil from the sump to the tank. It is of greater capacity than the supply pump. To dismantle the pump, proceed as follows :— 1. Remove all pipes from the pump. 2. Remove pump from engine. 3. Remove the two nuts “A” and the pin” 3 ” from the pump. 4. Gently push the plunger out of the pump body in the direction of the arrow “C” on the drawing. To re-assemble, the reverse sequence of these operations is, of course, followed. Should it be required to remove the worm ” 2,” the brass bush ” D ” which screws into the body with a R.H. thread, must be removed first. It is of the utmost importance that the nut “A” always makes an air-tight joint with the body ; and should there be no oil returning to the tank at any time, check this joint immediately. Occasionally go over all the oil pipe unions and nuts to see that everything is tight. Should one of the unions come loose, especially on the inlet side of the pump, of course, the whole system of lubrication fails. As will be seen from the illustration, the oil pump itself is very simple. There are only two moving parts, and it is most unlikely that anything in this pump will get out of order. Should the oil not be circulating and running back to the tank, be quite sure that there is plenty of oil in the tank and that the filters are clean, before dismantling the pump. Should it be necessary to take the oil pump from the engine, make certain that the short piece of square tube which drives the pump spindle from the engine is replaced. The pump delivers oil to the big end via holes drilled down the driving side of the crank­ case, then through holes in the main shaft, up web of flywheel, and through the crank pin into the big end. Oil is also taken to the cam box. A portion of the cam box projects inside the chaincase—the end of this projection is open ; the oil from the cam box falls on to the vertical chain—from there it falls through holes in the crankcase into the sump, and is returned to the oil tank. The piston and little end of connecting rod are lubricated in the ordinary way by splash from the big end, but we have found it necessary for continued high speeds on track or in road race, above (say) 60 m.p.h. average, to take an extra supply of oil direct to the cylinder walls

2003 Ducati ST4s Timing Belt Adjustment

0

Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 31-10-2010

download
This instruction on cam belt adjustment starts after you remove the fairing pieces. Plan on an hour to remove these. Since you are performing your own service, buying Ducati belts may not be that expensive. There may be another belt source, but I have not confirmed this for the 996 engine of the 02-03 ST4s. Fig 1 – ST4s ready for belt adj./ repl. Fig 2 – Crank tool installed. See dwg. 1) Ensure maximum of ½ tank of gas. Fuel will leak into the charcoal canister, then onto the floor if the tank is over half full and the tank is tilted up on its hinge. So put the tank up on its hinge. 2) Remove spark plugs. Cover sparkplug wells with boots or rags. This is a great time to toss out those Champions for a set of NGK DCPR8E’s. 3) Remove the front shield from the horizontal cylinder head. 4) Remove crankshaft cover on Riders LH side and insert crank tool. A crank tool can be made by following the drawing at the end of this document. See Fig 2 above. The flat head screws used are kind of soft so beware on their removal. 5) Remove oil pressure sending unit cable and remove oil sending unit. No oil should pour out. 6) Remove battery and remove bolts fastening battery box to engine/frame. You can let the battery box dangle or partially support it via a bungee cord. Be careful of the cable on the ground of the ECU. By dangling the battery box excess stress could be placed on this cables connector and you don’t want to troubleshoot an intermittent electrical issue. 7) Remove cam belt covers. The two covers over the cams are real easy. The center piece is removed by pulling it down. You may have to move some hoses and cables out Timing belt adj. doc 1
of the way because it is a tight fit. Removing the oil pressure sending unit gave clearance for the removal. Fig 1 shows bike ready to be worked on. On the Rider’s LH is a window on the case cover. Using a flashlight to illuminate the area, marks can be rotated into view using the engine turning tool. There are two marks denoting the TDC of each of the cylinders. When a mark in the window aligns with the pointer, look at the crank driving pulley on the Rider’s RH of the engine. If the driving pulley’s mark is aligned with the pointer on the engine case, you are at TDC horizontal cylinder. If the pulley mark and the pointer on the engine do not align, rotate the engine until the mark in the window on the Rider’s LH side case cover aligns as well as the pulley’s mark and the engine’s pointer. Fig 3 shows the engine pulley and pointer. You can check that the horizontal piston is at TDC by inserting a welding rod into the spark plug well and touch the top of the piston with it to sense its position. Timing marks on cam pulleys are clearly stamped on all four pulleys. When the crank driving pulley aligns with its corresponding pointer on the engine case and the marks on the pulleys align with their corresponding marks on both cylinders, you are in position for belt adjustment and replacement

Incoming search terms:

BMW Motorcycle R 1100 RS – Rear Frame

0

Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 16-11-2010

download
Complaint: On R 1100 RS models (above serial numbers only) with luggage racks, a crack may develop in the rear section of the frame (see drawing) if a load exceeding the permitted 11 lb. is applied to the luggage rack, or if a top case is used. Remedy: Please check all R 1100 RS models (in serial number range above) which pass through your workshops for cracks on the rear section of the frame. Cracked frames should be exchanged with the new part listed below. The new rear frame has been reinforced to use with larger loads. New Part: 46 51 2 320 698 (reinforced rear frame) Caution: Since the introduction of the rear luggage grid to accommodate the 33 liter removable top box, it is vital that this luggage grid and 33 liter top box not be installed on any of the above unless the reinforced rear frame is fitted, or a frame reinforcement kit is installed (a kit will be made available in the future to reinforce the rear frame of the above models, in order to install the 33 liter top box). The new reinforced rear frame (46 51 2 320 698) has been fitted since May 1995 production. Use of the new rear section of frame on an earlier production bike requires a new rear section of the dual seat as follows: Parts 52 53 2 325 121 Flash Green 52 53 2 325 122 Red Needed: 52 53 2 325 123 Black 52 53 2 325 120 Light Gray 52 53 2 325 211 Anthracite Warranty: Please explain to your customers that the top case can only be installed on bikes with reinforced rear frames. Claims for frame cracks which result from operation with large loads beyond specification will not be honored under the terms of the Limited Motorcycle Warranty.

MC 1200 Motorcycle Trailer – 1200 lbs Assembly Instructions

0

Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 29-01-2011

download
Tongue: Remove tongue assembly from the frame bundle. Insert into the tongue channel and slide into the front cross member of the frame. Secure with two (2) 3/8″ X 4″ carriage bolts and 3/8″ flange lock nuts. Tighten. Thread the tongue wire harness through the front top hole in the tongue and pull out the hole provided in the left side of the tongue towards the rear. Connect to the frame harness with the plugs provided. Install grommets. Safety Chains: Insert a 3/8″ X 1-1/4″ hex bolt into a 3/8″ flat washer, safety chain and then through the lower hole on the front of the tongue. Place on a 3/8″ flat washer on the inside of the tongue and secure with 3/8″ flange lock nuts. Repeat procedure on the opposite side of the tongue. Tighten. Coupler: Mount the coupler onto the tongue with a 1/2″ X 4″ hex bolt trough the rear mounting holes of the coupler. Using two (2) 1/2″ X 1″ hex bolt attach the coupler to the tongue using the front mounting holes. Secure with flange lock nuts. Tighten. Axle: Attach the spring busing in the rear spring shackles with 1/2″ X 3- 1/4″ hex bolts and 1/2″ flange lock nuts. Position the axle under the trailer with spring eye to the front of the trailer. Slip the flat end of the spring in the rear spring shackle above the bushing just installed. Secure the front spring eye to the front spring shackle with 98/16″ X 3-1/4″ hex bolts and 9/16″ hex lock nuts. Tighten. Mount the tire and rim assemblies to the axle assembly with 1/2″ lug nuts and tighten to 80-90 ft./lbs. of torque using the rotation pattern as shown in the Shore Land’r Owners Manual . Retorque the lug nuts after 50 miles of driving and then periodically thereafter. Ramps: Locate the loading ramp. Note that one end has two holes punched in the bottom of the channel. (See parts drawing) Insert a 3/8″ X 1-1/2″ full threaded carriage bolt into one of these holes. Secure in this position using a 3/8″ flange lock nut. Tighten Place a second 3/8″ flange lock nut onto the same bolt only until the threads of the bolt are exposed through the nut locking it in

2003-2004 HONDA GL 1800/A Frame Weld Safety Recall

0

Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 15-12-2010

download
there is no punch mark on the VIN plate as specified in this Service Bulletin, proceed to the REPAIR PROCEDURE section of this Service Bulletin. IMPORTANT: Due to the complexity of this campaign it is imperative that you check iN and your Dealer Responsibility Report before you begin repairs. If iN or your Dealer Responsibility Report indicate the Safety Recall has been performed, but you confirm the unit is not punched and the repair has actually been done (by inspecting the weld), please contact the Warranty HelpLine at (800) 421-1900, option 7. IMPORTANT: For complete Dealer and Welder Repair procedures, refer to the following items: • 2002-2003 GL1800/A Frame Weld Safety Recall Dealer Booklet (S0510)  Frame Weld Inspection Chart (S0516) You MUST provide your TIG welder with the following items:  2002-2003 GL1800/A Frame Weld Safety Recall Welding Manual (S0511)  2002-2003 GL1800/A Frame Weld Safety Recall Cracked Weld Repair Manual (S0515) Welding Template Box (S0512) All of the above items were shipped to you with Service Bulletin GL1800 #14. If you need additional copies of these materials, you may order them from Resolve at (440) 572-0725. For your reference, a brief repair procedure overview is provided below. DISASSEMBLY OVERVIEW You will be removing the following components from the vehicle as instructed in the Dealer Booklet : Handlebar weights Rear view mirrors Swingarm pivot covers Rider foot pegs Seat Side covers/Engine side covers Fairing pockets Fairing molding Meter panel Top shelter Battery Fuel tank Main wiring harness ground Front lower fairing Front exhaust pipe protector Muffler/exhaust pipe Antenna Whip(s) Coolant reserve tank Center stand NOTE: You will need to remove any accessories that may contact the ground during the Welding and Re-assembly procedures. IMPORTANT: Before you send the motorcycle to the welder, you MUST check for lower crossmember frame weld cracks.  If your inspection reveals no cracks in or on either the Left or Right lower cross- member frame welds, proceed to the REPAIR PROCEDURE OVERVIEW section of this Service Bulletin.  If your inspection identifies a crack or cracks in or on either the Left or Right lower crossmember frame welds, perform the following procedure: Place the grinding template (S0512) on the crossmember. Using a suitable felt marker, draw a line on the weld with the crack, drawing the line along the entire edge of the the template (this line will be 89 mm long). If the crack falls within the length of this line (89 mm) , prepare the motorcycle for welding per the Dealer Procedures and advise the welder to use the Cracked Weld Repair Manual (S0515). After the bike has returned from the welder, prepare the frame and re-assemble the motorcycle per the Dealer Procedures . Then, proceed

POWER SHIFT Installation and instruction manual

0

Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 26-10-2010

download
1. Shorten the shift lever rod of 34mm. and make a new thread with a M6 tap, the sensor must be installed on the engine side, (see picture). 2. Screw up the sensor between the ball joint and the rod (use the provided M6 joint if necessary). You can also make a male thread on the rod with a M6 die. IMPORTANT: when the ball joint and rod are screwed up, keep the no. 10 spanner on the side of the sensor which is being locked, so that the sensor itself is not subjected to torque which might damage it irreparably. The sensor must therefore never be between the two spanners. 3. Position the Control Unit under or near the seat. 4. Connect the sensor to the fitting 4 PIN connector placed on the Power Shift Control Unit. 5. Find the common cable of the Coils on the bike harness. 6. Split the common cable of the Coils and connect it in series to the Power Shift Control Unit (see the drawing). On many motorcycles (ex. Ducati 749-999 etc.) it’s possible to wire in the same way directly to the stand switch or to the engine run switch, some tuners prefer the conection to the common wire of the injectors. 7. Connect to ground the Black “GND” wire through the proper ring. 8. Connect the Red “+12V” wire to a positive of the harness (if possible with the key switched but not timed so that it is possible to make regulations with the engine off), a positive which is usually available is the rear brake light sensor power supply.