ducati st2 idle adjust

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Ural carburetors Installation and idle adjustment

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Filed Under (Ural) by admin on 02-11-2010

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1. First you must adjust the idle. It is acceptable per the manual to adjust the idle by using the idle adjust screws (11). This usually involves screwing them then backing out 1 to 1.5 turns. Or you can adjust looking at the sliders 2. If installing the carburetors: a. Remove the cover (2) b. Reomve the slider (3) c. Place the throttle cable through the guide (18) with the spring (4) on the cable. d. Route the cable through the slide catch (6) e. Insert the slide assembly into the chamber and make sure it easily slides up and down. Direct the needle (8) into the opening of the diffuser (angled side visible). f. Screw assembly together and verify via throttle movement that slide moves freely. Attach fuel delivery lines to (12). 3. Using the idle set screw (11) raise the slider so the lower edge is 1-2 mm. 4. Assemble to engine using the proper gaskets (paper – felt – paper). 5. Using the locknut (26) adjust the free play of the throttle cable (2-3 mm) 6. Adjust the idle mixture screw – turn in completely then out 1 to 1.5 turns 1. Remove one of the spark plug caps, and with the cap shorted, adjust (11) to decrease RPM’s to a point of being minimally steady. 2. Adjust the mixture (15) out until RPM’s decrease. Turn in until RPM’s increase slightly. Then turn in screws ¼ to 1/3 revoultion. 3. Do the same for the second carburetor with the first spark plug cap shorted. 4. With both cylinders, adjust each idle (11) on each carburetor the same amount each until it’s at a steady, minimal RPM. Use small changes. (at this point you can use your airflow tool to check). 5. Sharply increase, then decrease throttle. Then engine must return to low RPMs smoothly. If the engine goes below limits, readjust (11) from step 4. Synchronization of the K68 Note: Rather than using the opposite cylinder shorted to test the pull of the live cylinder carburetor, you can use something like a Twinmax connected to the test ports (27 Fig 1). Or, if you have a model without these ports, use a Synchrometer (Appendix 2) held against the face of the carburetor. These tools merely show airflow passing through each carburetor (which is dependent on the position and wear on the slide). If using these tools, it’s not necessary to do the following steps. You wil want to use a throttle guide (Appendix 1), to show airflow at various throttle settings. Using the flow meter of your choice make sure each carburetor is the same at the various throttle settings. 1. Place the motorcycle on the center stand ensuring the rear wheel is suspended 2. Make sure you have large area to work with (safety issues here) 3. Shift into the highest gear with the engine running 4. Short one spark plug cap to the cylinder (using a nail or something in the fins) 5. Increase the speed to 40-50 km/hr 6. Fix the throttle using the throttle (maybe using a throttle stop screw under the throttle housing). 7. Reconnect other cylinder and using the opposite carburetor determine the speed which should be the same as the first. 8. Adjust the position of this slide to achieve the referenced speed using the locknut at the top of the carburetor.

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Adjusting the Pekar K68 for Dnepr or Ural

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 11-11-2010

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1. Make sure the ignition timing is correct 2. Adjust the valves as necessary to ensure proper operation 3. Run the engine to warm it up a bit 4. Adjust the float setting. To do this, remove the carburetors (leave the throttle cables attached), remove the bowl and turn the carburetor upside down (fuel will spill). The float should look like this: Adjust as necessary by bending the float support (#37 in Figure 1). Reinstall Installation and idle adjustment 1. First you must adjust the idle. It is acceptable per the manual to adjust the idle by using the idle adjust screws (11). This usually involves screwing them then backing out 1 to 1.5 turns. Or you can adjust looking at the sliders 2. If installing the carburetors: a. Remove the cover (2) b. Reomve the slider (3) c. Place the throttle cable through the guide (18) with the spring (4) on the cable. d. Route the cable through the slide catch (6) e. Insert the slide assembly into the chamber and make sure it easily slides up and down. Direct the needle (8) into the opening of the diffuser (angled side visible). f. Screw assembly together and verify via throttle movement that slide moves freely. Attach fuel delivery lines to (12). 3. Using the idle set screw (11) raise the slider so the lower edge is 1-2 mm. 4. Assemble to engine using the proper gaskets (paper – felt – paper). 5. Using the locknut (26) adjust the free play of the throttle cable (2-3 mm) 6. Adjust the idle mixture screw – turn in completely then out 1 to 1.5 turns. * Starting using the K68′s (cold weather) 1. Verify fuel flow. Apply choke (pull 52 in Fig1). 2. Using the ticklers (13) allow fuel to enter the bowl until fuel drains from (14) 3. With the ignition off, kick 1 or 2 times 4. Turn ignition on, and as soon as engine is warmed up (maybe sooner) push choke mechanisms to open choke Idle Adjustment (engine running and warm) 1. Remove one of the spark plug caps, and with the cap shorted, adjust (11) to decrease RPM’s to a point of being minimally steady. 2. Adjust the mixture (15) out until RPM’s decrease. Turn in until RPM’s increase slightly. Then turn in screws ¼ to 1/3 revoultion. 3. Do the same for the second carburetor with the first spark plug cap shorted. 4. With both cylinders, adjust each idle (11) on each carburetor the same amount each until it’s at a steady, minimal RPM. Use small changes. (at this point you can use your airflow tool to check). 5. Sharply increase, then decrease throttle. Then engine must return to low RPMs smoothly. If the engine goes below limits, readjust (11) from step 4. Synchronization of the K68 Note: Rather than using the opposite cylinder shorted to test the pull of the live cylinder carburetor, you can use something like a Twinmax connected to the test ports (27 Fig 1). Or, if you have a model without these ports, use a Synchrometer (Appendix 2) held against the face of the carburetor. These tools merely show airflow passing through each carburetor (which is dependent on the position and wear on the slide). If using these tools, it’s not necessary to do the following steps. You wil want to use a throttle guide (Appendix 1), to show airflow at various throttle settings. Using the flow meter of your choice make sure each carburetor is the same at the various throttle settings. 1. Place the motorcycle on the center stand ensuring the rear wheel is suspended 2. Make sure you have large area to work with (safety issues here) 3. Shift into the highest gear with the engine running 4. Short one spark plug cap to the cylinder (using a nail or something in the fins) 5. Increase the speed to 40-50 km/hr 6. Fix the throttle using the throttle (maybe using a throttle stop screw under the throttle housing). 7. Reconnect other cylinder and using the opposite carburetor determine the speed which should be the same as the first. 8. Adjust the position of this slide to achieve the referenced speed using the locknut at the top of the carburetor.

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KAWASAKI TERYX EFI Installation Instructions.

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 08-02-2011

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Basic Tuning Adjustments 1. The following instructions are for basic fuel tuning. Modes 1,2, & 3 are allowing adjustments to increase and decrease the amount of fuel the engine needs. Modes 4 & 5 are for advanced tuning only. DO NOT change modes 4 & 5 when doing basic tuning! 2. To help understand how these modes work, you can think of them as if you were working with a carburetor. 3. Remember each time you push the MODE button you will be advancing to the next mode. Push the MODE button once and you are now in mode 1, push the MODE button again and you are now in mode 2 and so on. You only need to be concerned with modes 1, 2 & 3 for basic tuning. Modes 4 & 5 are for advanced tuning ONLY. 4. If you need to go back to the settings that were pre programmed when you purchased the controller, just look at the picture in each mode, the colored square represents where the settings were when you purchased the controller. 5. Looking at the controller you will see eight lights with numbers under them, this is what you need to look at when changing settings. The #1 light on the controller represents the leanest setting. TRINITY RACING DOES NOT TAKE REPONSIBLITY FOR DAMAGES THAT MAY OCCUR DURING OPERATION OF YOUR VEHICLE UNDER IMPROPER JET SETTINGS. IT IS THE FINAL RESPONSIBLITY OF THE OWNER/RIDER TO ADJUST JETTING TO SPECIFIC RIDING CONDITIONS AND ELEVATION BEFORE RIDING. WARNING! 1.877.FAS TOYS 2.Remove both seats 6. Re-install engine cover and seats. 6. Mode 1 green light represents idle & cruise adjustment (i.e. pilot jet). To adjust this setting push the MODE button once and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. 7. Mode 2 yellow light represents an additional amount of fuel added during acceleration (i.e. needle position). To adjust this setting, push MODE twice and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. 12 34 56 7 8 12 34 56 7 8 8. Mode 3 red light represents more fuel being added during full throttle (i.e. main jet). To adjust this setting push the MODE button three times and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. 9. If you are confident about your tuning skills and feel you need to adjust other parameters, see Advanced Tuning. 12 34 56 7 8 Advanced Tuning Adjustments 1. Advance tuning has two modes in which to adjust. They are called mode 4 and mode 5. In basic tuning, you are changing the amount of fuel that the engine receives, but with advance tuning, you will be changing when the fuel will be available. In each mode you can adjust how soon the fuel delivery occurs. 2. Mode 4 yellow light and blue light represent when the fuel delivery is available during partial throttle acceleration. To adjust this setting, push the MODE button four times and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. Only the yellow light will be changing.

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Ducati ST2/ ST4 Left Side Installation and Removal Instructions

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Filed Under (Ducati) by admin on 28-04-2012

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STEP #1 Remove necessary fairings. STEP #2 Mount the bracket-utilizing factory holes located under the passenger rear set. STEP #3 Route wires starting at the bracket end and finishing at the battery. STEP #4 Look over your work. STEP #5 Check the polarity & test. STEP #6 Put everything you took off back on. Detailed Instruction: STEP #1 – Remove the seat, front, right side, & left side tail fairings. See the Ducati service manual. STEP #2 – (RIGHT side shown, perform on LEFT) If your bike was equipped with a stock outlet unplug the existing harness & tie wrap this up out of the way, it is not used. Also remove the stock bracket from behind the rearset. Attach the new bracket behind the frame utilizing the two holes below the passenger rear set. Install the supplied 6mm hardware into the front hole and just snug them up. Adjust the bracket so rear hole is aligned with the hole in the frame; the tail fairing bolt & spacer go back in this hole later. Tighten the supplied front screw to 6 Nm.

DUCATI ST2/ ST4 Stock Socket Rewire Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Ducati) by admin on 25-10-2010

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STEP #1 Remove necessary fairings. STEP #2 Unplug the stock connector; plug in the new harness. STEP #3 Route wires starting at the bracket end and finishing at the battery. STEP #4 Look over your work. STEP #5 Check the polarity & test. STEP #6 Put everything you took off back on. Detailed Instruction: STEP #1 – Remove the seat, front, right side, & left side tail fairings. See the Ducati service manual. STEP #2 -Locate the white connector on the back of the stock socket. Unplug this connector and ty-wrap it into a safe location. Plug the new wiring harness into the back of the stock socket. The center terminal is plus and the outer ring is negative (see dwg below). Apply either dielectric grease or Vaseline to the terminals. STEP #3 – The harness is designed so the wires leave the connector toward the back of the bike, (this way they will not be seen). Loop the wires up through the gap between the frame & the engine controller (or storage bin). On the left side there is a small gap; do not pinch the wiring. You will need to remove four screws on the engine controller to accomplish this. Next cross over behind the engine controller (or storage bin). Re-tighten the engine controller. The harness is now routed toward the front of the bike [A]. Loosen right tail fairing front clip screw & pass the wiring harness under it [B]. Route the harness between the frame and the engine going towards air box. Using a ty-wrap attach the fuse holder to the back, right, air-box post [C}. In this location the fuse can be easily accessed under the tank. The ground wire is attached to a gas tank hinge bolt [D]. Connect the two wires as follows: RED WIRE = BATTERY POSITIVE BLACK WIRE = GAS TANK HINGE BOLT STEP #4 – Apply the remaining ty-wraps in useful locations. Do NOT allow the harness to directly contact the motor or exhaust

DUCATI ST2 Electronic Cruise Control Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Ducati) by admin on 25-10-2010

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The actuator spool is installed in the CIU housing with the actuator cable. The actuator spool is rotated to fully extend the cable. 2nd step. The carburettor cable and spool are installed and the other end of the carburettor cable is attached to the carburettors. Note the position of the roll pin. It is nearly contacting the end of the groove in the actuator spool. The free play in the carburettor cable must be adjusted so that the cable outer can be pulled out 2 ~ 3mm before the carburettors start to open. This ensures that the cruise control cannot prevent the carburettors returning to idle. If more free play is allowed the response of the cruise control is compromised. This adjustment of free play is usually performed after final assembly of the CIU is completed and the CIU is in its final location. This is because flexing the cable does effect the free play. It is shown at this stage in these diagrams to improve clarity

Ducati 748 – 749 – 999 – 1098 – 848 – 1198 – Streetfighter CGS2 kit installation Manual

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Filed Under (Ducati) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Remove body panels uppers and lowers A B C SP electronics ( CGS2 kit installation procedure on Ducati motorbikes models 748 – 749 – 999 – 1098 – 848 – 1198 Streetfighter ) 2) Place the CGS2 eBox near Dashboard. We recommend to arrange all wiring on the right side (Gear indicator display is optional) – Gear indicator display – CGS2 eBox – CGS2 main wiring – CGS2 accessory wiring (*) *NOTE: keep this wiring away from dashboard’s connector! SP electronics ( CGS2 kit installation procedure on Ducati motorbikes models 748 – 749 – 999 – 1098 – 848 – 1198 Streetfighter ) FEED SPEED CW SP electronics ( CGS2 kit installation procedure on Ducati motorbikes models 748 – 749 – 999 – 1098 – 848 – 1198 Streetfighter ) Arrange the Plug&Play wiring under Airbox and between the two strokes for right to left crossing eBox 3) Connect the Plug&Play CGS2 wiring: RPM CSS sMec SP electronics ( CGS2 kit installation procedure on Ducati motorbikes models 748 – 749 – 999 – 1098 – 848 – 1198 Streetfighter ) sMec Arrange the Plug&Play wiring under Airbox and between the two strokes for right to left crossing sMec SP electronics ( CGS2 kit installation procedure on Ducati motorbikes models 748 – 749 – 999 – 1098 – 848 – 1198 Streetfighter) 4) Connect the CGS2 sensor (sMec label) – Sensor wiring – Ducati lever senso

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DUCATI TITANIUM EXHAUST SYSTEM INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Ducati) by admin on 26-10-2010

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BILLET BRAKE RADIAL MOUNTS Moto Corse brake radial mounts are crafted by precision machine tools as shown, the caliper mount is “box” type precision tooled from single ERGAL 7075 solid piece. The result: performance, reduced weight, quality and beauty unmatched by none used extensively in moto gp as standard technology Moto Corse delivers moto gp technology for the ultimate performance. The kit is available for caliper with bolt distance 108mm or 100mm and includes all the parts to assemble it on the bike. 102143002 102143003 102143005 102143006 102143008 102143009 102143011 raDial MOunt Kit FOr OHlins rOaD &tracK Ø 43 FrOnt FOrKs FOr breMbO racing calipers screW Distance 108MM raDial MOunt Kit FOr OHlins rOaD &tracK Ø 43 FrOnt FOrKs FOr breMbO racing calipers screW Distance 108MM raDial MOunt Kit FOr OHlins rOaD &tracK Ø 43 FrOnt FOrKs FOr breMbO street calipers screW Distance 100MM raDial MOunt Kit FOr OHlins rOaD &tracK Ø 43 FrOnt FOrKs FOr breMbO street calipers screW Distance 100MM raDial MOunt Kit FOr sHOWa Ø 43 FrOnt FOrKs FOr breMbO street calipers screW Distance 100MM raDial MOunt Kit FOr sHOWa Ø 43 FrOnt FOrKs FOr breMbO street calipers screW Distance 100MM raDial MOunt Kit FOr sHOWa Ø 43 FrOnt FOrKs FOr breMbO street calipers screW Distance 100MM Ducati 999s/999r/749r Ducati 748r/996sps/996r/998r/998 eF Ducati 748r/996sps/996r/998r/998 eF Ducati 999s/999r/749/r Ducati 749/749s/999 748/998 – MOnster 1000/s4/s2r Ducati MultistraDa 1000D

How to change a fuel filter on 1998 Ducati ST2

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Filed Under (Ducati) by admin on 26-10-2010

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1. On a cool bike, parked on center-stand, remove the two button-head bolts securing the key cover on the top of the fuel tank. Set cover aside, and save bolts, they will be used later. 2. Remove the seat 3. Un-hook front clip holding the tank down. 4. Lift tank upward, rotating on rear pin, and place prop-rod in place to secure tank in upright position. (If possible, you may want to find a longer prop to put the tank at a higher angle. This allows the fuel pump to be a bit more accessible. I used a long piece of rod iron, and propped the tank up by its rubber side bumpers.) 5. Pad the area directly under the fuel pump very well with paper shop towels or other very absorbent materials, as gas will likely drip. 6. Disconnect the electrical connector going to the fuel pump.
7. There are two fuel lines going to the fuel pump. One is marked with a white collar that has the letter R on it, the other has a M . Take note of which is which. The R line goes in the middle stem, and the M connects to the stem that is closest to the outside edge of the tank. It is a good idea to take a permanent marker, and write a ” R ” and ” M ” near these connections on the bottom of the fuel filter so as to not forget. 8. One at a time, loosen the hose clamps on the lines, and remove them from their stems. Some fuel will spill. It will stop however; have plenty of paper-towels close on hand. (The hose clamps should be 7mm) Also remove the small gas overflow tube that is attached to the fuel pump. 9. Remove the rear latch that the tank rotates on, and lift the tank off of the bike. 10. Lean the tank forward so as to move the gas forward, and remove the drain plug at the very rear of the tank with a 5mm Hex Key

DUCATI MONSTER S4R And DUCATI MONSTER S2R EXHAUST SYSTEM Installation instructions

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Filed Under (Ducati) by admin on 26-10-2010

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REMOVAL OF STOCK EXHAUST SYSTEM: 1. Put the motorcycle on a side stand, we recommend a racing stand. Make sure, that surface is solid and flat. 2. Remove stock heat shields (Figure 1, 2) 3. Unscrew the bolts from the metal clamps at the muffler – collector joints (Figure 3, 4). T-handle 10mm wrench T-handle 12mm wrench T-handle 13mm wrench T-handle 3mm three hexagon key wrench T-handle 5mm three hexagon key wrench Combination 13mm wrench Spring puller Figure 1 Figure 2 Figure 3 Figure 4
NAV – 124 3 Figure 10 Figure 7 Figure 8 4. Unscrew the bolt from the muffler chassis hanging bracket and remove both mufflers with link pipes (Figure 5, 6). INSTALLATION OF THE AKRAPOVIC SLIP-ON EXHAUST SYSTEM: 1. Slide the link pipes onto the stock collector (Figure 7) hand tighten the metal clamps at the Akrapovic link pipe – stock collector joints; coat the interior side of the metal clamps and the clamp bolts with Akrapovic anti-seizing copper paste (black tube) (Figure 8). 2. Install Akrapovic carbon-fiber chassis hanging bracket (Figure 9, 10). 22Nm 16ftlb Figure 5 Figure 6 Figure 9 NAV – 124 4 Figure 15 3. Position the muffler correctly and slide it onto the outlet side of the link pipes and attach the springs; WARNING! make sure, that springs pull the muffler all the way onto the link pipes – use rubber mallet if necessary to tap the connections into place! (Figure 11, 12). 4. Correctly position the carbon-fiber clamp and slide it onto the muffler – bear in mind the left offset of the carbon-fiber clamp viewed from the rear. WARNING: open the clamp slightly wider than the diameter of the outer sleeve of the muffler – do not scrape it along the muffler outer sleeve! (Figure 13). Tighten the carbon-fiber clamp onto the Akrapovic carbon- fiber chassis hanging bracket (Figure 14, 15). Make sure the link pipes or muffler are not touching the frame or any other part of the motorcycle.

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