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harley- davidson DYNA BLACK FORWARD CONTROL KIT installation Manual

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 15-03-2012

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1. Disconnect battery cable, negative (-) cable first. 2. Remove the left side rider footrest assembly. Save the footrest and fasteners for installation. Discard the remaining hardware. 3. From the kit, press hole plugs (8) into the screw holes on the frame where the stock footrest assembly was mounted. 4. Remove plugs from forward control frame mount (I) and discard. 5. Remove the foot shifter lever (A) and shifter peg (D). Discard the old foot shifter lever (A). Save the foot shifter lever hardware and shifter peg (D) for future use. 6. See Figure 2. Remove the primary chaincase cover (6) and primary chaincase housing (1). Refer to your model motorcycles Service Manual for removal procedures. NOTE See Figure 1. Before removing the gear shifter lever (1) ((H) in Table 1), it is necessary to mark the correct orientation of the lever. Using a marking tool, draw a location marking (4) on the end of the splined shaft (2) across from the casting split (3). This will allow the new gear shifter lever to be installed in the same orientation as the old lever. 5 3 4 1 2 is 02083 1. Gear shifter lever 2. Splined shaft 3. Casting split 4. Location marking 5. Lever bolt Figure 1. Gear Shifter Lever Orientation 7. After marking the gear shifter lever orientation, loosen the lever bolt (5) and remove the old shifter lever. Discard the old gear shifter lever but keep the lever bolt. From the kit, install the new gear shifter lever onto the splined shaft in the same orientation as the old shifter lever. Tighten the lever bolt to 18-22 ft-lbs (24.4-29.8 Nm)

BMW Poly-V Belt – R 1100 Models

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 16-11-2010

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Information: In an effort to reduce service volume, a maintenance-free ribbed Poly-V belt was adopted on all R1100 models from engine number 38946130 onwards (09/94 production onwards). This belt does not need to be retentioned (even at the 600 mile service). The old belt required replacement every 24,000 miles. The new style belt is to be replaced every 36,000 miles. Use the same torque procedure as the old belt. Replacement of an old style belt with the new maintenance free belt requires the use of the new parts below: Parts Kit: 12 31 1 342 086 (kit consists of the following) In addition to the Poly-V belt, the following parts were also changed: 1. Top pulley new: steel old: Aluminum 2. Bottom pulley new no spot welds: old: steel w/three spot welds on front 3. Belt new: Ribbed, printing on belt (1342059 Fa. Dayco) or (1341779 Fa. Conti) Slight squeaking may be heard for a short time after a cold start when temperature is below 50°F. The belt should reach it’s correct operating tension soon after the start up. The belt only needs retentioned if the slight squeaking does not stop after warm up.

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YAMAHA V-Star 1100 Motorcycle Enhancements Remote Oil Filter Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 10-11-2010

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Removing Your Old Filter and Beauty Cover In order to install the new Remote Oil Filter Kit, you’ll need to remove the stock Yamaha “beauty cover” and the old filter and filter cover. Remove the engine parts necessary to access the stock filter as outlined in the V-Star owner’s manual. The parts should come off in this order: 1. Muffler assembly 2. Front exhaust pipe 3. Rear brake reservoir cover bolt and brake cover (the reservoir should not be removed, it can remain in place and be moved aside as needed) 4. Right floorboard (this can be simply loosened, by loosening the two bolts underneath) With the above parts removed, you can remove the Allen bolts holding the beauty cover and filter cap from your engine. There are five Allen bolts holding the beauty cover (so named, because most of the cover just covers the chromed side of the engine There are five bolts holding the cover. Ignore the three on the “Yamaha” cap in the middle – these just hold the Yamaha cap to the beauty cover itself. One bolt is hidd – in this picture – just be the Yamaha ca en low p. The bottommost bolt on the beauty cover will likely leak some oil when you remove it – it holds on the inner oil filter cover. Once you remove the beauty cover, you can remove the oil filter cover, and the oil filter Keep these two “O” rings, you’ll need them for the remote kit Old oil filter. Toss it away; you’ll never need one again! Throw away the old filter, and carefully remove the orange and black “O” rings from the filter cover (see picture above). These two “O” rings will go on the new engine cap in the same order as on the old filter cover. “O” ring for bottom bolt. When the beauty cover and filter cover are removed, be sure not to lose the tiny “O” ring that the bottom bolt goes through. Preparing the Remote Oil Filter Kit Remove the orange and black “O” rings from the stock filter cover plate, and place them on the Remote Oil Filter Kit engine cap – black on the inside, orange on the outside – just like on the stock filter cover.

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Fitting Hondaline Heated Grips to Honda GL1800

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 08-04-2011

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Then remove the right side fairing trim piece, starting at the bottom inner and working your way upwards. Unscrew the single Allen head bolt holding the lock panel in place and remove the panel. Now to remove the old grips. Tip; If you have chrome cap ends fitted, protect the chrome on the screw by putting some tape on the end of the screwdriver If you’re a cheapskate, and want to save the old grips, run a thin screwdriver or a hacksaw blade around the inside of the grip to loosen the old glue and it will come away easily. Repeat on the right side grip. The Honda instructions tell you to remove the whole throttle grip & boss but you don’t need to go to all that hassle of unscrewing the switch assembly to get at it. Just remove the rubber grip same as described for the left side After removing the switch panel from the Goldwing, drill a 45mm hole with a holesaw. The spot to drill is marked on the inside of the panel. Then just screw the controller knob assembly into position with the three screws provided (second picture) Spread some glue (the Honda stuff if you can get it, or just plain old rubber cement as I’ve used on my last four Goldwings without problems). Spread it more towards the ends and middle of the bar as it will get pushed inward as you push the grips on anyway

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BMW R1150RT TECHNICAL SPECIFICATION

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 12-11-2010

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miles on his beloved 1150 before trading it in for a new R1200 earlier this year. JOHN TAYLOR, 55 JOHN owned a R1150RT for four years and wishes he had kept it instead of buying the R1200RT. GEORGE EDWARDS, 43 GEORGE runs www.rtrider. co.uk, a website dedicated to BMW RT owners. He owned an 1150 for four years, covering nearly 50,000 miles, and is already up to 6000 miles on the new 1200RT. PERFORMANCE Paul: “The new model feels smoother straight away. It fires quickly, the throttle is lighter and the engine feels more responsive. On the move it just gets up and goes, and it really thrives above 5000rpm. At first I was arriving at corners much quicker than I realised – and two-up performance is a revelation compared to the 1150.” John: “I’m not that impressed with the new model. The 1150 would cruise at 5000rpm-plus like a turbine. By comparison, the new 1200 feels very harsh above 4400rpm in top. The 1200 has more power, but lacks the low down grunt that the older bike had. However, once you rev it there’s noticeably more power. “Fuel consumption varies from 58 to 46 miles to the gallon, depending on the terrain and my right hand.” George: “I always ride two-up with the wife, and usually fully loaded, so the extra power is really noticeable. There’s much more punch out of corners, compared to the old 1150 which felt a bit sluggish. “With the new bike there’s a surge of power, especially above 6000rpm, but there’s still plenty of low down grunt, too. It also means that you don’t have to change down the gearbox so often. On the old 1150 I used to drop down to fifth gear on A and B roads, as it didn’t have the grunt for overtaking in top. The new 1200 is far better, I just leave it in top most of the time.” RIDING Paul: “The 1200′s seat is slightly higher than the 1150, but the new bike is still easier to manoeuvre at low speeds and the top heavy feeling has virtually gone. “The back brake is also improved, and the front feels more progressive than the 1150 – but I wouldn’t say it was better, only different. The suspension takes care of rougher surfaces in a more gentle way and it’s better two-up, too – less likely to ground out. There’s been many a time when we’ve scraped the 1150′s centrestand during fast cornering.” John: “The weight reduction has made the new bike easier to ride, especially on back roads. However, on long fast sweepers it doesn’t feel as planted as the old 1150. “Low speed handling is much better on the new bike and the rear brake is much better as well. I hated the old linked-brake system – it was too sharp, a nightmare in a gravelly car park two-up. The non-linked brakes on the new bike are far better. “The low beam is also much better

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HARLEY DAVIDSON COMBINATION SPEEDOMETER/TACHOMETER GAUGE KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 17-04-2011

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Removing the Old Speedometer NOTE This Instruction Sheet covers several different Harley- Davidson models and years. Make sure you locate and follow the procedures that apply to the motorcycle receiving the new gauge. 1. Apply power to motorcycle and record the odometer reading. 2. Remove the seat according to the procedure in the applicable Service Manual. To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect battery cables (negative cable first) before proceeding. (00048a) Disconnect negative (-) battery cable first. If positive (+) cable should contact ground with negative (-) cable connected, the resulting sparks can cause a battery explosion, which could result in death or serious injury. (00049a) 2. Disconnect battery cables, negative cable first. NOTE Cover the fuel tank with clean shop towels to prevent scratching. Damage to the finish could result. 3. Remove the instrument console acorn nut (and mounting screw with a flat washer on some models). Lay clean shop towels on the fuel tank. Lift the console from the fuel tank, turn it upside down and lay it on the towels. NOTE If necessary, bend back the flexible metal clip to free the harness conduit from the underside of the console. 4. Unplug the 12-terminal connector (39B) from the back of the speedometer. Depress the external latches and use a rocking motion to separate the pin and socket halves. 5. Remove the back clamp: All models except FXSTD: Gently pry the three latches upward to release the back clamp from the back of the speedometer. FXSTD: Depress the three external legs of the lock ring, then gently pry the three latches upward to release the back clamp from the back of the speedometer. 6. Unscrew the trip-meter reset button, and pull the harness from the clamp (remove the screw if necessary). 7. Lift the console and remove the old speedometer from the console. Discard the old speedometer, but retain the rubber gasket and back clamp for use with the new gauge. NOTE Set the console securely on the towel-covered fuel tank, and take care that it doesn’t fall off during the following opera- tions. 8. Set the console securelyon the fuel tank. Installation and Final Check NOTE Apply window cleaning fluid or mild soapy water to the speedometer gasket as needed to aid installation. 1. Turn the console over, facing upward. 2. Place the speedometer gasket into position around the console speedometer bore. 3. Fit the new gauge into the bore so that it fits snugly against the rubber gasket. Rotate the gauge into approximate visual alignment. The back clamp will complete the alignment. 4. Turn the console over, face down. 5. Install the back clamp

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HARLEY DAVIDSON COMBINATION SPEEDOMETER/ TACHOMETER GAUGE KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 11-02-2011

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REMOVING THE OLD SPEEDOMETER NOTE This Instruction Sheet covers several different Harley-Davidson models and years. Make sure you locate and follow the procedures that apply to the motorcycle receiving the new gauge. 1. Apply power to motorcycle and record the odometer reading. 2. Remove the seat according to the procedure in the applicable Service Manual. To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect negative (-) battery cable before proceeding. (00048a) Disconnect negative (-) battery cable first. If positive (+) cable should contact ground with negative (-) cable connected, the resulting sparks can cause a battery explosion, which could result in death or serious injury. (00049a) 3. Disconnect battery cables, negative cable first. NOTE Cover the fuel tank with clean shop towels to prevent scratching. Damage to the finish could result. 4. Remove the instrument console acorn nut (and mounting screw with a flat washer on some models). Lay clean shop towels on the fuel tank. Lift the console from the fuel tank, turn it upside down and lay it on the towels. NOTE If necessary, bend back the flexible metal clip to free the harness conduit from the underside of the console. 5. Unplug the 12-terminal connector [39B] from the back of the speedometer. Depress the external latches and use a rocking motion to separate the pin and socket halves. 6. Remove the back clamp. All models except FXSTD: Gently pry the three latches upward to release the back clamp from the back of the speedometer. FXSTD: Depress the three external legs of the lock ring, then gently pry the three latches upward to release the back clamp from the back of the speedometer. 7. Unscrew the trip-meter reset button, and pull the harness from the clamp (remove the screw if necessary). 8. Lift the console and remove the old speedometer from the console. Discard the old speedometer, but retain the rubber gasket and back clamp for use with the new gauge. NOTE Set the console securely on the towel-covered fuel tank, and take care that it does not fall off during the following operations. 9. Set the console securely on the fuel tank

HARLEY DAVIDSON XL PULLBACK HANDLEBAR KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 31-03-2011

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Installation Removing the Existing Front Brake Line To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect negative (-) battery cable before proceeding. (00048a) 1. Refer to the Service Manual and follow the instructions given to remove the seat and disconnect the negative battery cable. Retain all seat mounting hardware. Direct contact of D.O.T. 5 brake fluid with eyes can cause eye irritation, swelling, and redness. Avoid eye contact. In case of eye contact flush with large amounts of water and get medical attention. Swallowing large amounts of D.O.T. 5 brake fluid can cause digestive discomfort. If swallowed, obtain medical attention. Use in well ventilated area. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN. (00144a) 2. See Figure 1. Open the bleeder nipple cap on the front brake caliper. Obtain a length of plastic tubing. Install one end of the tubing over the caliper bleeder valve (1). Place the free end of the tubing into a suitable container. Open the bleeder valve about 1/2-turn and pump the front-brake hand lever to drain the fluid out of the front brake system. Do not reuse brake fluid. NOTE Cover the front fender and the front of the fuel tank with clean shop towels to prevent scratching. Damage to the finish could result. Avoid leakage. Be sure gaskets, banjo bolt(s) and clutch line are clean and undamaged before assembly. (00329a) 3. Disconnect the brake line from the front brake caliper and the front brake master cylinder assembly. Discard the brake line sealing washers, but retain the banjo bolts. The brake line kit contains all new sealing wash- ers. CAUTION 1 CAUTION 1 WARNING 1 WARNING 1 WARNING ® Kit Number 56021-04B 1 of 6 Figure 1. Draining Brake Fluid i01986 i05811.tif 1 1. Caliper bleeder valve NOTE Carefully compare the new brake line to the old line before removing the old linefrom the motorcycle. Make sure the banjo fittings on the new brake line will be oriented the same as the fittings on the old line. 4. Make note of the front brake line routing and the orientation of the banjo fittings, then unfasten the brake line clamps at the right side of the front fork upper bracket and the underside of the front fork lower bracket, and remove the brake line assembly from the vehicle. Save the upper clamp and all attaching parts, but discard the brake line.

Ultima Billet Rear Shocks Installation Instruction Sheet

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 30-11-2010

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Unloading the rear suspension Use a jack under a flat part of the motorcycle and lift until the rear tire is barely resting on the surface. This ensures that the shocks are unloaded. They are now ready for removal. Remove the old shocks Refer to the service manual specific to your motorcycle for this process. Unbolt the old shocks. Save the necessary hardware if you have not purchased new hardware. Installation Shocks should be installed with the preload adjuster on top (see Preload Adjustment). With the new shocks in hand; please go over the hardware configuration diagram (Figure 3) to decide which configuration best fits your application. Spacers are included to provide clearance between the shocks and your motorcycle (Figure 4). Typically start on which ever side the final drive is located. This side normally causes the clearance issues. Each eye and each side should be configured the same way. Make sure to use the proper hardware so that the shock- bushings fit the shock-bolts as snugly as possible. Shocks come with a 1/2″ ID bushing installed. This is needed for all applications. An optional bushing is included and should be used in addition when 3/8″ bolts are used instead of the larger 1/2″bolts. Unless new hardware was purchased, you will use the stock bolts from your old shocks to install the new shocks. Use Red Locktite (or equivalent) and use a torque wrench to tighten as follows: Models that use 1/2″ bolts: 65ft-lbs Models that use 3/8″ bolts: 30ft-lbs (Figures 1 & 2) Be sure to check clearance between the shock and the belt-guard. If there is any contact you will need to alter your spacer arrangement to accommodate this. Check tire to fender clearance as well. This clearance will be reduced when lowering shocks are used. Preload Adjustment Your new Ultima Billet Shocks are preload adjustable. Adjustment should be done once the shocks are installed. To adjust use a strap wrench and turn the top part of the shock (Figure 6) clock-wise to tighten or provide more preload (this stiffens the suspension), or counter-clockwise to loosen or subtract preload (this softens the suspension). Hand adjustments may be sufficient on models with smaller spring rates while the strap wrench will be required on the high spring rate shocks. You will see notches (Figure 6) that appear on the shock as the shock is preloaded. These should help you obtain the same preload for both sides of the motorcycle. Both shocks should be adjusted to the same level of preload.

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DUCATI CLUTCH INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Ducati) by admin on 25-10-2010

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When a vehicle is so equipped, the pilot must be replaced. The pilot is located in either the engine’s crankshaft or in the center of the flywheel. To remove a flywheel-fit pilot, remove the flywheel from the engine and drive or press out the pilot from the backside of the flywheel. Press or gently tap new pilot into flywheel after flywheel has been machined (where applicable). For crankshaft-fit pilots, an effective means for removal is to select a drift punch or wooden dowel that fits snugly into the old pilot. Then, pack the old pilot tightly with grease. Using the drift punch (or dowel) and a hammer, drive the grease toward the engine. The grease will not compress and will in turn push the old pilot out of the crankshaft. Install the new pilot carefully using a bearing driver. NOTE: Do not grease new pilots. New pilot bearings come pre-greased (often with special synthetic grease). Bronze pilot bushings have oil in the pores of the material that grease will clog. For bushings, a few drops of 30W oil can be used if desired. PRESSURE PLATE AND DISC Install flywheel (refer to flywheel section above) . Always tighten flywheel to crankshaft bolts in a star pattern to manufacturer’s torque specification. Before installing the disc, make sure that it slides smoothly on the transmission input shaft. Apply a thin coat of high temperature grease (such as wheel bearing grease) to the splines of the input shaft. DO NOT USE ANTI-SEIZE! It does not cling to rotating parts. Slide the disc back and forth on the input shaft and remove any extra grease that squishes out of the splines of the disc. Do not get grease or oil on the disc facing. Any grease or oil on a disc facing can be removed with alcohol or brake cleaner if done quickly. Lay the disc on the flywheel noting the flywheel side of the disc and hold it in place with the alignment tool. Clean the pressure ring of the pressure plate with brake cleaner to remove the rust inhibiting coating. Do not spray the entire pressure plate with brake cleaner as lube for internal parts will be removed. Set the pressure plate on the flywheel dowel pins (if equipped) and hand tighten the hold-down bolts. With hand tools, tighten pressure plate bolts ½ turn at a time in a star pattern until the manufacturer’s torque specification is met. Remove the alignment tool. NOTE: Different brands of the same pressure plate may have a difference in appearance and uninstalled lever height. These are not issues. Appearance can vary greatly and the installed lever height will be the same.

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