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INDIAN MOTORCYCLE EQUIPMENT LISTING

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Filed Under (Indian) by admin on 28-11-2010

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INDIAN MOTORCYCLE, INC. EQUIPMENT LISTING QTY DESCRIPTION SERIAL # 1 VIPER VT-25 CNC LATHE FANUC 18-T CONTROL MACHINE CENTER 3398080101 1 MIGHTY COMET MILLING 3VHG 98017/98025 1 SHARP MILL PACKAGE LMV 9 X 42 61124334/61124335/31124336 1 VIPER V-1000G CNC MILL MDL VMC 206506 1 CLAUSING C12AX KHS BANDSAW INV328172 LC889967 1 CNC ROTARY HYDRAULIC TUBE BENDING MACHINE – HMT 992L3055 3 AXIS 005B 1 JANCY COLD SAW T315 21006 1 KALAMAZOO AH9W BANDSAW GEI TECHNOLOGY SOLIDWORKS & PDM WORKS, EASTMAN M9000 STATIC TABLE SYSTEM 1 MITUTOYO CORDINATE MEASURING MACHINE 1006804 2 KHS JET DRILL PRESS 2 MOTOMAN -SK16 ROBOT S99354/S994351 LOT TENNESSEE RAND – SCOUT SWING ARM MANUAL WELD FIXTURE, CHIEF SWING ARM MANUAL WELD FIXTURE, SCOUT REAR STRUT MANUAL WELD FIXTURES, CHIEF REAR STRUT MANUAL WELD FIXTURE, ERGONOMIC TOUCH UP AND REPAIR STANDS – BOTH CHIEF & SCOUT INDIAN MOTORCYCLE, INC. EQUIPMENT LISTING QTY DESCRIPTION SERIAL # 1 CROWN FORKLIFT SC4040-35 ISLE PICKER TROJAN BATTERY HOBART CHARGER FORKLIFT – SC4040-35 BATTERY 63257 CHARGER 100C62388 1 CROWN FORKLIFT SP3210-210 1 NISSAN ELECTRIC FORKLIFT – MODEL PE30Y CSPO1-9A1555 1 NISSAN ELECTRIC FORKLIFT – MODEL PE50YSC CWPO2-9C2180 1 NISSAN LIFT TRUCK MODEL P50LP – USED KP50YLP-901370 CROWN FORKLIFT ISLE PICKER 1A206705 KOMUTSU FORKLIFT 506718A 2000 CHEVY FLATBED

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Vespa GTS Super Specification

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Filed Under (Vespa) by admin on 11-11-2010

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Gts super 300 ie Gts super 125 ie s 125cc s 50cc Gts 250 ie Gts 125cc LX 125cc LX 50cc 2 stroke Engine Single-cylinder, catalised, QUASAR 4 stroke, 4 valve electronic injection Single-cylinder LEADER 4 stroke with electronic injection Single-cylinder LEADER 4 stroke Single-cylinder HI-PER 2 stroke Single-cylinder, catalised, QUASAR 4 stroke, 4 valve electronic injection Single-cylinder, catalised, LEADER 4 stroke, 4 valve Single-cylinder LEADER 4 stroke Single-cylinder HI-PER 2 stroke Capacity 278cc 124cc 124cc 50cc 249cc 124cc 124cc 49cc Power 16.4 kW / 7500 rpm 10.5 Kw / 9500 rpm 7.65 Kw / 8250 rpm 3.2 Kw / 7500 rpm 15.7 Kw / 8500 rpm 7.65 Kw / 8250 rpm 7.65 Kw / 8250 rpm 2.5 Kw / 8500 rpm Max Torque 22Nm / 6500 rpm 12 Nm / 8000rpm 9.6 Nm / 7250 rpm 4.4 Nm / 6500 rpm 20.1 Nm / 6500 rpm 9.6 Nm / 7250 rpm 9.6 Nm / 7250 rpm 3.3 Nm / 6500 rpm Cooling Liquid Liquid Forced Air Forced Air Liquid Liquid Forced Air Forced Air Starter Electric Electric Electric and kick starter Electric and kick starter Electric Electric Electric and kick starter Electric and kick starter Transmission Automatic twist and go Automatic twist and go Automatic twist and go Automatic twist and go Automatic twist and go Automatic twist and go Automatic twist and go Automatic twist and go Front Suspension Single arm, dual chamber hydraulic shock absorber with coaxial spring Single arm link with coil spring and double hydraulic shock absorber Single arm link with coil spring and double hydraulic shock absorber Single arm link with coil spring and double hydraulic shock absorber Single sided trailing link with hydraulic shock absorber Single sided trailing link with hydraulic shock absorber Single sided trailing link with hydraulic shock absorber Single sided trailing link with hydraulic shock absorber Rear Suspension Two dual effect shock absorbers with adjustable preload Coil spring and double hydraulic shock absorber Coil spring and double hydraulic shock absorber Coil spring and double hydraulic shock absorber Twin hydraulic shock absorbers with preload adjuster Twin hydraulic shock absorbers with preload adjuster Hydraulic shock absorbers with preload adjuster Hydraulic shock absorber Front Brake ø 220mm disc brake 220mm disc brake ø 200mm disc brake ø 200mm disc brake ø 220mm disc brake ø 220mm disc brake ø 200mm disc brake ø 200mm disc brake Rear Brake ø 220mm disc brake 220mm disc brake ø 110mm drum brake ø 110mm drum brake ø 220mm disc brake ø 220mm disc brake ø 110mm drum brake ø 110mm drum brake Front Tyre Tubeless 120/70-12″ Tubeless 120/70 – 12″ Tubeless 110/70 – 11″ Tubeless 110/70 – 11″ Tubeless 120/70-12″ Tubeless 120/70-12″ Tubeless 110/70 – 11″ Tubeless 110/70-11″ Rear Tyre Tubeless 130/70-12″ Tubeless 130/70 – 12″ Tubeless 120/70 – 10″ Tubeless 120/70 – 10″ Tubeless 130/70-12″ Tubeless 130/70-12″ Tubeless 120/70 – 10″ Tubeless 120/70-10″ Running weight 158kg 158kg 114kg 96kg 151kg 145kg 114kg 96kg Length/Width/Height 2230mm / 755mm / 1170mm 1930mm / 755mm / 1930mm 1770mm / 740mm / 1140mm 1755mm / 740mm / 1140mm 1930mm / 755mm / 1170 mm 1940mm / 755mm / 1180 mm 1770mm / 740mm / 1140mm 1755mm / 740mm / 1140mm Fuel Tank Capacity 9 litres 9 litres 8.5 litres 8.5 litres 9.2 litres 10 litres 8.5 litres 8.5 litres Emmissions Euro 3 Euro 3 Euro 3 Euro 2 Euro 3 Euro 3 Euro 3 Euro 2 Colours Rosso Dragon Nero Lucido Montebianco Rosso Dragon Nero Lucido Montebianco Taormina Nero Lucido Montebianco Taormina Nero Lucido Montebianco Marrone Terra Di Toscana Bronzo Perseo Nero Vulcano Blu Midnight

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KAWASAKI MULE Electric Steering Installation Manual And Removal

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 05-05-2012

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Remove plastic center cap on steering wheel by prying off with a small screwdriver. Remove steering wheel nut and remove steering wheel by pulling up on wheel. If wheel is tight have a partner tap on the shaft while pulling up on wheel. Note: Do not mushroom threads on shaft. Remove all screws that retain dash to body of vehicle. Disconnect all electrical connections at back of dash. Mark all wires to ensure easy install. Remove lower steering shaft bolt at rack and pinion. Remove upper bolt at base of steering column. Remove the 2 bolts that retain the steering column to the frame and remove the column and the shaft assembly. Remove lower u-joint on steering column shaft & replace it with supplied u-joint. There is a welded wire retainer on the lower dash tube where the electric motor will sit. You will need to grind off this piece and smooth. Remove the master cylinder bolt closest to the driver side and discard bolt. Your motor and module has been shipped together bolted to the bracket. It is important to follow the install sequence to ensure a proper installation. The lower shaft on the steering motor is marked on the shaft and on the motor. These marks must not be changed. If you remove the shaft it needs to be installed back in the same spot.

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ADLY Electric corrosion problem solved

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Filed Under (Adly) by admin on 27-10-2010

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makes the most patient equipment manager’s jaw get tight. It’s a messy process that involves draining, disassembly, flushing, and days of downtime. Now, our dealership offers a new, more thorough, less invasive solution to hydraulic contamination that can be brought right to your jobsite. It’s called the Ultra Clean®System. The innovative Ultra Clean hose and tube cleaning system removes contamination by using a pneumatic launcher to shoot a projectile through hydraulic lines and hoses. A “shelled” pump can send a lot of metal debris downstream with the last few gallons of oil that flow through the system. Flushing hydraulic lines with solvent and air can be tedious, and sometimes ineffective, but the Ultra Clean system makes decontaminating hydraulic systems fast and easy. It also lets you skip the hassle of handling and disposing harsh chemicals. It is as simple as disconnecting both ends of a line or hose and launching the specially designed projectile through it. “The Ultra Clean system is more efficient than any other method we’ve tried,” says Scott Dickey, Service Manager, Murphy Tractor, the John Deere dealership in Lincoln, Nebraska. “We no longer worry about the time and expense of hose replacement and tube disassembly for repair service. Ultra Clean is clearly superior than flushing with solvents and air blow-down.” Dickey says the Ultra Clean system is also used to prepare fabricated hose assemblies for over-the-counter sales at his dealership. He points out it has increased the value of parts and service by assuring delivery of cleaned assemblies that are ready for service. Logo sealing tape covers the open assembly ends and assures the customer that the assembly has been cleaned. It also serves as a reminder to keep contamination out of the system when the new assembly is put into place. Cleaning fabricated hoses right after they are constructed is another way in which dealers are taking a proactive approach to reducing contamination in hydraulic systems and reducing the risk of contam- ination. DataTrending Is A Road Map to Less Downtime. It’s important to understand that a little dirt can cost a lot of money if you let it get into your hydraulic system. Dirt circulating in your hydraulic fluid grates like a belt sander on internal machine parts. Trending, along with a proactive approach to contamination control and elimination, can help you prevent this scary scenario. “A little bit of contamination can cause lots of wear and tear in just a short time,” explains Mike Daly, fluid analysis program marketing manager for John Deere Construction & S

VICTORY HAMMER, KINGPIN, VEGAS AND JACKPOT ELECTRIC HORN INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Victory) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Remove the left and right plastic side covers and the seat (two allen bolts located below the sides of the seat). Unplug and remove the stock horn (located over the oil cooler). Connect the female ends of the jacketed two wire cable supplied to the original horn wires. Route the other end of the cable up over the engine and back to where the relay will mount as shown in photo (1). 2. Using the relay supplied with this kit and the wiring diagram provided with the horn set, identify the terminals of the relay (there are very small numbers next to each of the terminal). Connect the two (2) wires from the cable to terminals #85 & 86 on the relay. Locate the fuse holder wire assembly supplied and connect the blade terminal to the relay terminal #87 or #30. Connect the other end of the fuse wire to the battery positive terminal (+). 3. Working under the left side of the motorcycle, refer to photo (2) and install the black bracket supplied as shown onto the engine mount. Locate the four thin flat brackets and two (2) 6mm nuts supplied with the horn set and two lock washers supplied with the kit. Bolt two (2) of the brackets to each of the horns using a lock washer and 6mm nut on each and make them snug. Using the remaining 6 x 12mm bolt, nut and lock washer install the horns onto the black bracket and align as shown in photo (3). Adjust the horn location so that they are free to vibrate and do not come in contact with other parts of the motorcycle then tighten all three 6mmm bolts securely. 4. Using the two remaining wire assembles supplied, connect the larger terminals with double wires to one of the horns and the terminals with the single wire to the other horn. Route these wires up thru the frame to the relay. Connect the wire with the female blade connector to the relay terminal #30 or #87. Connect the ring terminal to the battery negative (-) terminal
or any 6m bolt on the frame. Turn on the ignition and test the horns. Secure the relay to the frame or other wiring and all loose wires using the cable ties supplied. Replace the seat and side covers

1982 Kawasaki KZ550C Electric Motorcycle Conversion Notes

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 03-12-2010

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Starting point: • 1982 Kawasaki KZ550C that I found in an alley near my house. Frame rust sanded and repainted. • Rebuilt front suspension ($25 for front fork oil seals, 1 weekend for repair) • Need-to-be-rebuilt front brake caliper • Need-to-be-replaced front master brake cylinder (expected ~$80) • Need-to-be-refurbished electrical wiring system and 12V battery • Working rear brake • Flat rear tire, patched with fix-a-flat (temporary repair), 77″ circumference. • In-tact 530 size 62″ chain with 36 tooth driven sprocket • Miscellaneous spare parts from 1978 Kawasaki KZ450, most of which fit on the 1982 frame, including an ignition switch and key. I started with a chassis I found in an alley near my house. It was in rough shape and needed some refurbishment before I could start the conversion. Most of refurbishment steps are listed above in bullets. In addition to the repainting and repair of important aspects of the bike, I also needed to remove the IC engine components and the grease caked on from years of IC use. The Clymer manual for this bike was helpful in this process, which was about $18 from [13]. Steps for removing the engine were as follows. I removed the seat and the gas tank. I removed the electrical system wiring and 12V battery holder. I then removed the carburetors (which took a lot of pushing and shoving) and air filter box. I then removed the drive socket cover and removed the drive socket from the engine drive shaft. This allowed me to slip the chain off of the drive socket after loosening the rear wheel to put slack into the chain. I slipped the chain off and let it rest on the rear wheel swing arm and drained the old motor oil. I then removed all of the engine mounting bolts and pushed the entire engine out of the right side of the bike. This took a lot of effort but it is possible to remove the engine without removing the piston heads as recommended in the Clymer manual. The engine weights about 60-70 lbs, so it was possible to handle with one person. I suggest using a flat car jack to help with engine removal. I will eventually sell the IC parts through Ebay

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TRIUMPH ROCKET III ELECTRIC HORN HARDWARE KIT INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 24-12-2010

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1. Remove the seat and left hand side cover. (held in place by two (2) 10mm bolts) Remove the chrome cover from the stock horn located below the headlights. (held in place by two (2) 5mm allen screws at the top of the cover) 2. Unplug the wires from the stock horn. Locate the supplied jacketed cord and attach the end with the piggyback jumpers to the horn wires. Plug these back onto the horn terminals as shown in photo (1). Remove the black plastic left side steering head frame cover (held in place with two (2) 5mm allen screws). Route the cord behind the headlights, along the left side of the frame and over the engine keeping it neatly out of sight. Route the end if the cord to where the relay will mount as shown in photo (2A). Replace chrome horn cover and steering head frame cover. 3. Using the relay supplied, refer to the wiring diagram included with the horn set and the small numbers next to the terminals on the relay. Connect the 2 wires from the jacketed cord to terminals #85 & #86. Connect the blade terminal of the fuse wire assembly (supplied) to terminal #30 on the relay. Attach the other end of the fuse holder to the positive (+) battery terminal. 4. On the horns bend the wire terminals outward so that they will be parallel to the mounting brackets when installed. Refer to photo (3) and assemble the horns onto their supplied mounting brackets as shown. Bolt two (2) of the four (4) flat silver brackets on each of the horns using the 6mm nuts and lock washers supplied. Bolt the black bracket to the left hand horn using the 6x12mm bolt and nyloc nut supplied. Place the 6 x 35mm bolt with a washer and lock washer thru the right hand horn bracket then the left hand black bracket and place the 3/8″ flange nut over the back of the bolt. Remove the bolt where the horns will mount (see photo 2B) and bolt the horn set on as assembled with the flange nut on the back side of the black bracket. Align the horns as shown in photo (2) being careful that the horns do not make contact with each other or any other parts as this will significantly reduce their output then tighten the bolt securely.

Pulsar XR 650R ELECTRIC-START KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Pulsar) by admin on 27-10-2010

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1. Remove the seat, fuel tank, side panels, muffler, and headers. 2. Disconnect the stator wires from their corresponding mates underneath the seat (trace the wires up from the left side case.) Un-route the stator wiring so it hangs free from the left side case. 3. Remove the stock shift lever and the left side engine case cover. You do not need to drain the oil from the engine. 4. Unbolt and remove the stator and wiring from the stock cover. Do not cut any wires. 5. The stock pulsar coil (small black box hanging from the stator) will have to be modified slightly to clear the ring gear before installation into the new cover. Remove (file or grind) about .030 inches of material from the base of the pulsar coil so that the base is flush with the face of the rest of the coil as shown in Photos 1 and 2. File Here Photo 2 Make flush with this surface Remove material here Photo 1 6. Install the stator and modified pulsar coil into the new engine case cover as shown in Photo 3. Use the three provided Phillips head bolts, split lock-washers, and plastic cable clamps to secure the wiring as shown. You will need to pull about ½” of extra wire through the grommet (Photo 4) to give you enough wire length for the grommet to sit in its case cutout. To do this, remove the electrical tape from the end of the stator wires and pull each wire individually through the grommet. Neither of the stock metal wire guides will be used when reinstalling the stator into the new case (Photo 5). 5/16″ cable clamps 1/8″ cable clamp Photo 3 Photo 5 Not Used Pull extra wire through grommet Photo 4 7. Remove the stock flywheel nut (An air impact tool works best to remove this nut without turning the motor). Remove the flywheel using the flywheel puller provided. 8. Locate the T and F marks on the stock flywheel (Photo 6). The T mark is used to adjust valve clearances and its location needs to be transferred to the ring gear. Scribe a line in the edge of the flywheel in line with the T mark as shown in Photo 7

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KTM Starter Gear Maintenance Instructions

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 26-11-2010

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Checking the electric starter motor for wear -Check Bendix 1 for smooth operation and signs of wear. -Check the sprocket of the electric starter for wear and radial clearance. -Replace O-ring 2 of the electric starter. -Replace gasket 3 . -Check starter idler gear 4 for smooth operation and wear, check that the bearing bushings are seated firmly. Electric starter motor – checking for and adjusting play -Mount the electric starter and the starter idler gear. -Mount the tighten cover 5 . -Move starter idler gear 4 back and forth in the direction of rotation, the maximum play may not exceed half the width of a tooth. -If play is larger, cover 5 must be removed and as many shims 6 with a thickness of 0.10 mm as necessary must be added to eliminate all play. Then remove one shim again. -Check the play again; the maximum play may not exceed more than half of the width of a tooth. 1 2 3 4 5 4 5 6

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ELECTRIC SCOOTER Assembly and User's Manual

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 26-11-2010

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l Output: 250W l Voltage: 24V DC l Rated current: 14.0A l Non-loading rotate speed: 3350±5% l Rated rotate speed: 2500 RPM l Rated torsion: 0.90 Battery l 12V 12Ah/5hr x (2) Qty l Sealed lead acid FEATURES & SPECIFICATIONS Performance l Maximum speed: 11 MPH l Range: Nine (9) miles l Incline rating: 40 l Net Weight: 45 lbs. l Maximum load cap.: 178 lbs. Tires l Tire Size: 2 1/4″ x 12 1/2″ l Tire Pressure: 45-50 PSI Key Ignition Headlight Turn Signals Turn Signals Brake Light Mag Wheels Footrests Working Gauges Quick Connect Charging 3
4 l One (1) SCOOT – N – GO™ l User/assembly manual l Tool kit containing 2 open ended wrenches, combination Phillips/Flathead head screwdriver l Spare fuses (30 Amp x 3 qty) l 24V Battery charger . Remove scooter from carton and all protective materials from the unit. 2. Use tool kit provided for installation FRONT WHEEL INSTALLATION: 1. Place wheel (D) in the center of the forks 2. Insert one (1) spacer (C) between wheel (D) and fork 3. Carefully insert axle (E) through fork, spacer (C), and wheel (D) 4.Insert one (1) spacer (C) on opposite side between fork and wheel (D) 5. Continue to insert axle (E) through fork on opposite side 6. Place washers (B) and nuts (A) on both ends of axle and tighten with open ended wrench provided in the tool kit. 7. Check nuts are tight and wheel moves freely Parts Needed A Nut Qty- 2 Lockwasher Qty- 2 B Spacer/ Bearing-holder Qty- 2 C D Front Wheel Qty- 1 E Axle Qty- 1 *Photos are not to scale Spacer Spacer Axle Washer Washer Nut Nut
10 ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS HANDLEBARS INSTALLATION: 1. Insert handlebar post through tightening clamp 2. Insert the top of the fork base into bottom of handlebar post. 3. Line up handlebars and front wheel 4. Slide tightening clamp down to open end of fork base 5. Insert bolt and hand tightening nut into clamp and tighten. 6. Be sure that handlebars and wheel move at the same time

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