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KTM Preload Adjuster frontfork Disassembly And assembling

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 13-02-2011

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Product Exploded View Disassembly & Assembling Workshop manual Preload Adjuster frontfork 5 Preload Adjuster Frontfork 03/2002 Screw the screw-cap to the right so that the spring washer is turning out of the screw-cap PA. Remove the spring washer. Pay attention to the assembling direction!!! Turn the plastic adjustment tube holder out of the screw-cap. 12_021 12_022 12_023Product Exploded View Disassembly & Assembling Workshop manual Preload Adjuster frontfork 6 Preload Adjuster Frontfork 03/2002 1. Remove the O-ring inside. Unscrew the air release plug. 12_024 12_025 12_026 2. Remove the O-ring.Product Exploded View Disassembly & Assembling Workshop manual Preload Adjuster frontfork 7 Preload Adjuster Frontfork 03/2002 Disassemble the adjusting knob from the screw-cap. Pay attention to the steel balls and spring!!! 12_027 12_028 12_029 Heat the steel nut. Unscrew the nut (size 32) clockwise .Product Exploded View Disassembly & Assembling Workshop manual Preload Adjuster frontfork 8 Preload Adjuster Frontfork 03/2002 The nut. Pay attention to the assembling direction!!! Remove the O-ring. 12_030 12_031 12_032 Push the holder rebound PA out of the screw-cap.Product Exploded View Disassembly & Assembling Workshop manual Preload Adjuster frontfork 9 Preload Adjuster Frontfork 03/2002 – springring – spring washer – O-rings – holder rebound adjustment tube – rebound adjusting knob with steel balls and spring – air release screw with O-ring – nut – holder rebound adjustment cpl. with O-ring – screw-cap PA

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HARLEY DAVIDSON PREMIUM SUSPENSION KIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 09-03-2011

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REMOVAL Front Fork Assembly 1. Refer to the XR model section of the service manual and remove the front forks. INSTALLATION Front Fork Assembly 1. Install front forks from kit to motorcycle according to service manual instructions but do not tighten the fork bracket pinch screws at this time. 2. See Figure 1. Measure the distance from the top of upper fork bracket to top of fork assembly. Both sides must be exactly the same and measure 0.388-0.468 inch (9.85- 11.89 mm) above the top fork bracket. Align the adjustment screws inline with the handlebars (see Figure 5). is06083a Figure 1. Fork Installation Height Measurement. NOTE If new pinch screws are not readily available, use a wire grinder wheel to remove all remaining lock patch from original pinch screws, wash screws in clean solvent and dry thoroughly. Apply two drops of LOCTITE® 262 to the first 1/4 in. (6.35 mm) of the end threads. 3. Install pinch screws to upper and lower fork brackets. 4. Verify fork tube installation measurement is 0.388-0.468 inch (9.85-11.89 mm). 5. Tighten pinch screws to 30-35 ft-lbs ( (40.7-47.5 Nm)) See Figure 2. The top edge of reflector should be 1-1/2 inches (38.10 mm) below the lower edge of the bottom fork clamp. 6. Remove the adhesive backing. Place reflector in position and press reflector firmly into place to activate the adhesive. Repeat for reflector on opposite fork. REMOVAL OEM Rear Shock Absorbers 1. Refer to the XR model section of the service manual and remove the rear shock absorbers. INSTALLATION Rear Shock Absorbers 1. See Figure 3. Install the rear shock absorbers according to service manual instructions. The shocks are installed with the external gas reservoir to the rear of the shock absorbers and the thick side of the grommet installed to the frame rail mounts. is06142 Figure 3. Install Thick Side Of Grommet To Frame Rail SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS Front Fork Suspension Adjustment Whenever a wheel is installed and before moving the motorcycle, pump brakes to build brake system pressure. Insufficient pressure can adversely affect brake performance, which could result in death or serious injury. (00284a) Adjust both forks equally. Improper fork adjustment can lead to loss of control, which could result in death or serious injury. (00124c) Compression and rebound adjusting valves may be damaged if too much force is used at either end of the adjustment range. (00237a) NOTES Damping is set at the factory for the average solo rider under normal riding conditions. The rider may make adjustments to compensate for individual riding styles and varying road conditions. Evaluating and changing the rebound and compression damping is a very subjective process with many variables and should be approached carefully. The front and rear preload setting will need to be adjusted for the rider’s weight and cargo. This adjustment should be made before the motorcycle is ridden any distance and after changing the overall vehicle weight (adding saddlebags, etc.). If the preload adjustment is correct, and you have the rebound and compression damping set at the factory recommended points, the motorcycle should handle and ride properly. Changes in the load carried requires changes in the preload setting(s). Carrying less weight than was used for setting up the suspension requires decreasing the amount of preload. Increasing the load carried requires adding more preload. The following tools are needed to make suspension adjust- ments. • 5 mm hex key (front fork preload adjustment tool). • Spanner wrench with extension handle (shock absorber preload adjustment). • Screw driver (front fork damping adjustment). 1. Front fork preload adjustment: a. See Figure 4 and Table 1. Using the 5 mm hex key, turn the preload adjuster counterclockwise until it stops. This is the minimum preload setting. b. Turn the preload adjuster clockwise the recommended amount specified for the rider weight

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Ultima Billet Rear Shocks Installation Instruction Sheet

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 30-11-2010

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Unloading the rear suspension Use a jack under a flat part of the motorcycle and lift until the rear tire is barely resting on the surface. This ensures that the shocks are unloaded. They are now ready for removal. Remove the old shocks Refer to the service manual specific to your motorcycle for this process. Unbolt the old shocks. Save the necessary hardware if you have not purchased new hardware. Installation Shocks should be installed with the preload adjuster on top (see Preload Adjustment). With the new shocks in hand; please go over the hardware configuration diagram (Figure 3) to decide which configuration best fits your application. Spacers are included to provide clearance between the shocks and your motorcycle (Figure 4). Typically start on which ever side the final drive is located. This side normally causes the clearance issues. Each eye and each side should be configured the same way. Make sure to use the proper hardware so that the shock- bushings fit the shock-bolts as snugly as possible. Shocks come with a 1/2″ ID bushing installed. This is needed for all applications. An optional bushing is included and should be used in addition when 3/8″ bolts are used instead of the larger 1/2″bolts. Unless new hardware was purchased, you will use the stock bolts from your old shocks to install the new shocks. Use Red Locktite (or equivalent) and use a torque wrench to tighten as follows: Models that use 1/2″ bolts: 65ft-lbs Models that use 3/8″ bolts: 30ft-lbs (Figures 1 & 2) Be sure to check clearance between the shock and the belt-guard. If there is any contact you will need to alter your spacer arrangement to accommodate this. Check tire to fender clearance as well. This clearance will be reduced when lowering shocks are used. Preload Adjustment Your new Ultima Billet Shocks are preload adjustable. Adjustment should be done once the shocks are installed. To adjust use a strap wrench and turn the top part of the shock (Figure 6) clock-wise to tighten or provide more preload (this stiffens the suspension), or counter-clockwise to loosen or subtract preload (this softens the suspension). Hand adjustments may be sufficient on models with smaller spring rates while the strap wrench will be required on the high spring rate shocks. You will see notches (Figure 6) that appear on the shock as the shock is preloaded. These should help you obtain the same preload for both sides of the motorcycle. Both shocks should be adjusted to the same level of preload.

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BMW F650GS / F800GS Slip-On Exhaust System with M-2 Exhaust Canister Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 09-11-2010

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1. Make sure the bike is completely cool before starting the installation. Make sure the bike is secure on a centerstand or ideally a service lift. 2. Remove muffler joint springs, set aside to re-use later. 3. Remove muffler mounting bolt and decorative washer, set aside to re-use washer later. 4. Attach TBR slip tube to TBR muffler using the 2 piece X-Rings and 6x14mm socket head cap screws with lock washer that are provided. Leave loose enough to make some adjustments on the motorcycle. 5. Attach muffler assembly to motorcycle using the OEM springs and supllied muffler clamp. Use the supplied 8x20mm socket head cap screw and OEM washer to secure muffler clamp. *a small amount of high temp silicone on slip joint may be used. 6. Align muffler and tighten the 4 X-Ring bolts. 7. Double check your work to ensure everything is tight and properly installed. 8. Before you run the bike, clean off all fingerprints and dirt, as any oily residue will etch the metal and become somewhat permanent when the system gets hot. Run the bike and enjoy. It is normal for some white smoke to appear the first time you start the bike. This is packing/ manufacturing oil from inside the pipe burning off. Check for gaps or leaks. If you find a leak, a little high temperature silicon sealant should fix it. After 50 to 100 miles, recheck all fasteners for tightness. 2008-09 BMW F650GS / F800GS V.A.L.E.™ Slip-On Exhaust System with M-2 Exhaust Canister Part # 005-2630406V / 005-2630407V / 005-2630408V Qty. Description Part Number 1 M-2 Muffler Canister Varies 1 Slip-On Tube Assembly 005-26304S 1 Muffler Clamp Varies 1 HARDWARE KIT 005-263-3 2 X-Ring (half) 005-7-2-3 4 6x14mm Socket Head Cap Screw 005-SH614 4 6mm Split Washer 005-WL6 1 8×20 Sockey Head Cap Screw

HARLEY DAVIDSON SOFTAIL ULTIMA STYLE ADJUSTABLE SHOCKS MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 03-03-2011

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ADJUSTING SPRING PRELOAD (STIFFNESS). NOTE: Shocks typically come set at their loosest (softest) setting. Adjustment range is approximately 4 full rotations. Step 1: Loosen preload adjustment locknut. (see fig. 1) Step 2: Using supplied special tool with a 3/8 ratchet, turn adjusting plate clockwise to stiffen preload & counter-clockwise to loosen preload. (see fig. 2) Step 3: Once preload has been set, lock down preload adjusting nut using blue (med strength) thread locker ADJUSTING RIDE HEIGHT. NOTE: Extending shock assembly lowers frame/fender height. Shortening shock assembly will raise frame/fender height. NOTE: Always check clearances during & after adjusting ride height. Step 1: Loosen ride height adjusting locknut. (see fig. 3) Step 2: Rotate end to desired height. Always leave at least 1 inch of threads engaged in the female threaded shaft. (see fig. 4) Step 3: Lock down ride height adjusting locknut using blue (med strength) threadlocker. (see fig. 5) Step 4: After adjusting ride height on both shocks, verify that they are the same length by measuring from their mounting points. (see fig. 6)

STROKE DOWNHILL MOUNTAIN BIKE SHOCK SPECIFICATIONS

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 01-12-2010

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The shock has an adjustable rebound and standard Hi/low compression. The optional independent hi/ low compression adjuster has a low speed brass screw and a seperate blue high speed hex. The rebound adjuster is at the bottom of the shock. The standard setting is 8 clicks out (counter clockwise) from full hard. To increase rebound damping turn the adjuster in (clockwise), this will slow the extension of the shock. To decrease rebound damping turn the adjuster out (counter clockwise) this will quicken the extension of the shock. The standard compression adjuster has a the slotted brass screw on the reservoir. The standard setting is 12 clicks out low/hi speed brass screw(counter clockwise) and 1.75 turns out on the blue hex high speed adjuster from full hard. To increase compression damping turn the adjuster in (clockwise) – this will stiffen the compression of the shock. The low speed compression adjuster will soften small bumps and improve traction. The optional high speed adjuster will firm up the damping for big hits with no loss in small bump compliance, firmer settings will improve pedaling as well, lighter settings will smooth out square edge hits. Spring preload can also be changed to tune the shock to the weight of the rider. The shock spring preload can be varied by tightening or loosening the preload collars. The standard preload is 1.5 turns, (min 1 turn / max 3 turns). The rider sag must be adjusted to 1/3 of the total stroke with the rider sitting on the bike. This is the difference from fully extended position to the rider sitting. The ride height can be raised or lowered ± 5 mm to quicken or slow steering within the range of preload settings

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Kawasaki Vulcan 400/ 800 Preload Improvement Kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 01-12-2010

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1. Begin by removing both side compartment covers. The RH compartment cover requires the use of the ignition key for removal; the LH compartment cover is secured by a large Phillips screw. Once you’ve removed the LH cover, place the Phillips screw back into the hole in the frame (so you don’t misplace it) and set both covers aside. In many applications, you must remove the upper exhaust pipe (from the rear cylinder), and loosen the other pipe, to remove the inner parts of the RH side compartment cover (see below). Before attempting step #2 below, try step #3 first… depending on the brand of exhaust pipes you have, you may be able to avoid removal in step #2, if you are successful with step #3 first. Some brands of exhaust pipes provide access to the fasteners securing the RH side covers, eliminating the requirement to remove pipes for rear suspension access. 2. Remove the rear cylinder’s exhaust pipe. To do so, remove the two Allen nuts on the exhaust header, where it attaches to the engine, using an 8mm Allen wrench. Most often, this goes much more smoothly if you first spray the inside of the allen nut with a penetrating lubricant like WD-40. Remove the black acorn nut from the discharge end of the exhaust pipe (under the upper exhaust pipe, near the discharge end of the pipe) using a 12mm open-end wrench or socket. You’ll find a black metal spacer, through which the bolt goes, that is pressed through the rubber grommet. To avoid the potential of having it fall out unnoticed, remove it and place it aside with the nut. Remove the black bolt from the pipe just aft (to the rear) of where the pipe enlarges and above the pipe. This is actually a bracket that holds the two pipes together at a joint. Loosen the bolt using a 12mm socket, then slide it back onto the pipe you’re removing. Once you have the pipe off of the bike, the clamp will be loose. Be sure to keep it with the pipe, along with the rest of the removed parts. Loosen the pipe from the front cylinder BEFORE trying to remove the pipe from the rear cylinder. By loosening the header nuts on the pipe from the front cylinder, and removing the two black Allen bolts (6mm Allen wrench) under the forward pipe that attach it to the frame, you will be able to remove the rear pipe. There are more spacers in grommets where the 6mm Allen bolts secure the lower pipe to the frame (like those used in the rearmost connection o

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Honda 400EX Hub installation instructions

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 20-12-2011

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Remove all contents from its packaging and verify that all parts are present and free from damage. You should have the following items: (2) wheel hubs (2) smaller tapered bearings (2) large tapered bearings (2) wheel bearing nuts (2) dust caps (2) inner bearing seals (6) M3 x .5 screws (2) cotter pins (2) inner bearing spacers 2. Completely remove the old hubs from your quad and clean the spindle and the surrounding areas. It is very important to keep the new bearings and seals clean during installation for long life. Be sure to remove the factory inner bearing spacers from the spindle and discard. They will not be used in re-assembly. 3. Pack your new Timken tapered wheel bearings with a liberal amount of high quality wheel bearing grease. A wheel bearing packer works best, however you can accomplish the task by placing the grease in the palm of your hand and manually working it in between the bearing rollers. We also recommend that you pack the area between the bearing races in the hub with grease for additional lubrication and protection against moisture. 4. Place the large wheel bearing (inner) into the hub and install the inner seal. The seal should bottom out against the step in the bore and the face should be flush with the hub. 5. Remove the brake rotors from your old hubs. Re-install the rotors on your new hubs and be sure to use medium strength Loctite on the threads. 6. Apply a light film of grease or oil to the large diameter of the spindle stud. Install the new o-ringed bearing spacer onto the spindle. 7. Apply a thin film of grease to the seal surface on the bearing spacer and the inside diameter of the seal to prevent the seal from running dry. Install the hub onto the spindle and slide the outer bearing over the spindle and install the new bearing nut furnished with your hubs. Do not use the factory nut or washer. 8. SETTING THE BEARING PRELOAD: It is first necessary to seat the bearing before setting the preload. This aligns the rollers and prevents the bearings from loosening after a short period of use. To seat the bearing, tighten the spindle nut while you rotate the hub until the hub becomes difficult to spin. With the bearing now seated, you must set the bearing preload. Preload means placing a small amount of force against the bearings to remove any clearance between the bearing race and the rollers. This is done by backing the nut off completely and re-tightening it with your fingers. Do not rotate the hub while setting the preload . If a hole in the spindle is not accessible for installation of the cotter pin, adjust the nut tighter to bring a hole into alignment. Install the cotter pin and bend the pin around the outside of the nut. Do not attempt to bend the pin toward you (over the end of the spindle) or it may rub on the inside of the dust cap.

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ATK 50MX INSTALLATION AND ADJUSTMENT TIPS

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Filed Under (Atk) by admin on 01-11-2010

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PRELOAD ADJUSTMENT— On some Works shocks a threaded preload is standard. This allows the adjustment of the ride height of the motorcycle. The preload is changed by turning a threaded nut down towards the spring (higher ride height) or up away from the spring (lower ride height). The nut is a right-hand thread. CHECKING RIDE HEIGHT— 1. With the bike unloaded on the side stand and the shock fully extended, have an assistant measure from a point at the axle (center point) to a point on the frame, fender or bodywork directly above it. Record this measurement. 2. With the bike off the stand and the rider in the seat, bounce on the suspension and let the bike settle. Have the assistant measure from the same two points. Subtract the second measurement from the first. HM CRX50 / BAJA & ATK 50MX INSTALLATION AND ADJUSTMENT TIPS Continued on next page. #HM50 – 5/27/99 #HM50 – 5/27/99 To Front Valve Mounting channel Spacer Flange Shock eye Top View of Shock Mount Fig. 1 Top view of upper shock mount. The flange on the shock bushing must face toward the spacer. The valve should point toward the front of the bike Fig. 1 Top view of upper shock mount. The flange on the shock bushing must face toward the spacer. The valve should point toward the front of the bike 3. The amount of settle, or “sag” is a function of the wheel travel. It should only be between 1/4 and 1/3 of the total travel. 4. If the difference is less than the minimum, reduce the spring preload. Measure the distance again starting with Step 2. Adjust again if necessary. 5. If the difference is more than the maximum, increase the spring preload. Measure the distance again starting with Step 2. Adjust again if necessary. Note: If the ride height is too low, the shock will bottom unnecessarily, resulting in a harsh ride. If the ride height is too high, the shock will “top out” too easily when rebounding from a bump or under hard deceleration. NITROGEN PRESSURES IN EMULSION SHOCKS CAUTION: The pressure in these shocks cannot successfully be checked. Concerns with the gauge volume and the gas volume in the shock body create a situation where you cannot accurately determine what pressure was in the shock. In addition when the pressure is lowered (i.e. checking the pressure) the gas and some of the shock oil escapes into the gauge. It is possible to lose a large percentage of the shock oil by depressing the core of a charged shock to the atmosphere. Please note that in order to check the pressure, some of the gas must escape and fill the gauge assembly. The volume of the gas pocket is about half the size of your thumb, so a very small volume change results in a large pressure drop. Because the gauges’ volumes vary, it is not possible to deduce the actual pressure in the shock prior to attaching the gauge. Therefore it is imperative that any attempt to check pressure be accompanied by the capability of refilling the shock. In other words: If you don’t have a nitrogen source handy, don’t check the pressure! PRESSURIZING EMULSION SHOCKS The pressure setting for Works gas shocks is 250 p.s.i. of dry nitrogen. To pressurize a shock with some residual pressure in it, bring the gauge manifold up to 250 p.s.i. and depress the core with the T-handle. This will either equalize the pressure or refill the shock without transferring oil from the shock into the gauge assembly. The best gauges for this purpose screw on to the valve and incorporate a T-handled core depressor to isolate the shock from the gauge. This allows a leak-free separation once the desired pressure is reached. For simplified operation, an extra valve is provided for the filling apparatus, allowing pressure adjustment with the gauge in place. Works offers a suitable gauge and filling manifold. Most motorcycle shops that deal with dirt bikes can pressurize the shock

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KTM 990 SUPER DUKE 950 SUPERMOTO 950 SUPER ENDURO REPAIR MANUAL

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 22-11-2010

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Adjusting the position of the compression and rebound damping Rebound damping: -Turn in the adjusting screw 1 in a clockwise direction all the way to the stop. -Turn back the respective number of clicks in a counterclockwise direction. Compression damping, low speed: -Turn in the adjusting screw 2 in a clockwise direction all the way to the stop. -Turn back the respective number of clicks in a counterclockwise direction. Compression damping, high speed: -Turn in the adjusting screw 3 in a clockwise direction all the way to the stop. -Turn back the respective number of clicks in a counterclockwise direction. Adjusting the spring preload NOTE: the spring preload is the difference between the unloaded and preloaded length of the spring. -Tighten the adjusting nut 4 with the special tool T106 until you have the prescribed spring preload. -Tighten the lock screw on the adjusting nut Disassembling the shock absorber -Write down the spring preload. -Write down the rebound and compression damping settings, counting the clicks or number of turns while turning in a clockwise direction. -Unscrew all of the adjusting screws in a counterclockwise direction. -Clamp the upper part of the shock absorber in a vise as shown in the photo, using protective jaws. -Loosen the lock screw 1 (AH 4 mm), loosen the adjusting nut 2 using the special tool T106 3 and relieve the spring. NOTE: mark the position of the lock screw. -Press the spring down with the special tool T101S and pull out the spring retainer 4 . -Remove the washers 5 and spring 6 . 4-2 Repair manual WP Shock absorber 990 Super Duke, 950 Supermoto, 950

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