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INDIAN MOTORCYCLE EQUIPMENT LISTING

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Filed Under (Indian) by admin on 28-11-2010

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INDIAN MOTORCYCLE, INC. EQUIPMENT LISTING QTY DESCRIPTION SERIAL # 1 VIPER VT-25 CNC LATHE FANUC 18-T CONTROL MACHINE CENTER 3398080101 1 MIGHTY COMET MILLING 3VHG 98017/98025 1 SHARP MILL PACKAGE LMV 9 X 42 61124334/61124335/31124336 1 VIPER V-1000G CNC MILL MDL VMC 206506 1 CLAUSING C12AX KHS BANDSAW INV328172 LC889967 1 CNC ROTARY HYDRAULIC TUBE BENDING MACHINE – HMT 992L3055 3 AXIS 005B 1 JANCY COLD SAW T315 21006 1 KALAMAZOO AH9W BANDSAW GEI TECHNOLOGY SOLIDWORKS & PDM WORKS, EASTMAN M9000 STATIC TABLE SYSTEM 1 MITUTOYO CORDINATE MEASURING MACHINE 1006804 2 KHS JET DRILL PRESS 2 MOTOMAN -SK16 ROBOT S99354/S994351 LOT TENNESSEE RAND – SCOUT SWING ARM MANUAL WELD FIXTURE, CHIEF SWING ARM MANUAL WELD FIXTURE, SCOUT REAR STRUT MANUAL WELD FIXTURES, CHIEF REAR STRUT MANUAL WELD FIXTURE, ERGONOMIC TOUCH UP AND REPAIR STANDS – BOTH CHIEF & SCOUT INDIAN MOTORCYCLE, INC. EQUIPMENT LISTING QTY DESCRIPTION SERIAL # 1 CROWN FORKLIFT SC4040-35 ISLE PICKER TROJAN BATTERY HOBART CHARGER FORKLIFT – SC4040-35 BATTERY 63257 CHARGER 100C62388 1 CROWN FORKLIFT SP3210-210 1 NISSAN ELECTRIC FORKLIFT – MODEL PE30Y CSPO1-9A1555 1 NISSAN ELECTRIC FORKLIFT – MODEL PE50YSC CWPO2-9C2180 1 NISSAN LIFT TRUCK MODEL P50LP – USED KP50YLP-901370 CROWN FORKLIFT ISLE PICKER 1A206705 KOMUTSU FORKLIFT 506718A 2000 CHEVY FLATBED

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Vengeance Motorcycle Specification And Owner's Manual

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Filed Under (Vengeance) by admin on 20-11-2010

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Vengeance Maxis • Vengeance Raven • Vengeance Banshee • Vengeance Whiplash • Hotrod Drifter • Hotrod CalChop • Hotrod Teacher • Hotrod Bone Shifting Gears Starting off and changing gears requires coordination of the clutch and throttle and gearshift lever. If you don’t do things right, the amount of control you have over the bike is lessened. To start off, pull in the clutch, shift into first gear, roll on the throttle a little, and ease out the clutch. You will become familiar with the friction zone (that’s where the clutch begins to take hold and move the bike), and you add a bit more throttle. You don’t want to stall the engine, nor do you want to over-rev it. There’s a sweet spot in there; find it. Shift while traveling in a straight line. Shifting in a curve is not good practice, and something to be avoided. Become familiar with the sound of your engine, so you can tell when you should shift without looking at your instruments. When you downshift to a lower gear, you should (in one swift, smooth movement) be able to squeeze the clutch, rev the engine a little to let it catch the lower gear smoothly, and shift down. When you come to a stop in traffic, leave the bike in first gear with the clutch disengaged (just in case you want to accelerate out of there in a hurry). Who knows what may be coming up behind you. Braking Don’t ever forget: The front brake on your motorcycle can supply as much as 70 percent or more of your stopping power. The single most important thing you can learn about braking is to use that front brake every single time you want to slow down. Turning When you are riding along the road, you lean a motorcycle into a turn. Learning to lean is an essential part of riding a motorcycle. It is a normal function of the bike when you are changing its path of travel – and quite different from turning the steering wheel of your car. To get the motorcycle to lean in a normal turn, press the handlebar in the direction of the turn and maintain slight pressure on that handlebar to take you smoothly through that particular turn. In other words: press right to go right; press left to go left. Your instincts to keep the motorcycle on a smooth path while keeping it from falling over usually take care of this without you even noticing it. (Demonstrate to yourself how a motorcycle moves by pressing a handlebar slightly while traveling in a straight line. The motorcycle will move in the direction of the handlebar you pushed.) • Slow down before you enter the turn; look as far ahead as possible through the turn. • Keep your feet on the pegs, and grip the gas tank with your knees. • Lean with the motorcycle; don’t try to sit perpendicular to the road while the motorcycle is leaning over. • Keep an even throttle through the turn, or even accelerate a little bit. Checking the Bike before the Ride It’s not fun to have things go wrong on a motorcycle, but if you spend a minute before you go off on a ride, you can increase the chances that nothing will.

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Harley Davidson 2004-Up Sportster EZ-Steer Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 16-02-2011

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Installation Notes • Remove front fender, wheel, brake caliper, and fork tubes. • Remove all components attached to stock triple clamps, then the triple clamps themselves. • Remove upper and lower bearings including race. • Install new steering stem bearing races into neck. • Install new upper steering stem bearing with seal into neck. • Install Top and Bottom triple clamps into neck and snug steering stem bolt with washer. • Remove fork tube cap from both forks. • Install fork extensions with o-ring into fork tubes and tighten until fully seated. • Install fork tube caps with o-rings and tighten (see torque table). • Slide fork tubes into triple clamps until the top of each tube cap extends 0.42-0.50 in. above top surface of upper triple clamp. • Tighten 3/8-16 x 1.5″ bolts on upper triple clamp (see torque table). • Tighten steering stem bolt (see torque table). • Tighten pinch bolts on lower triple clamp (see torque table). • Install front wheel assembly and front brake caliper. • Install front fender. Item # Part Description Torque Spec (Lb. Ft.) – Fork Tube Cap 22-58 8 Bolt, Steering Stem, SP 30-35 11 3/8 – 16 X 1.5″ Socket Head Cap Screw 30-35 EZ-Steer Maintenance The bearings in your EZ-Steer rake kit are normal wear items, not subject to replacement under Champion’s one year Limited Warranty for the product. Failure to follow your motorcycle manufacturer’s recommendations for periodic OEM triple-tree maintenance will accelerate the wear on these bearings. Checking/adjustment of the steering stem nut torque with the front end lifted, in accordance with your motorcycle manufacturer’s recommendations, is important to reliable bearing service. Windshield Notes Please note that this EZ-Steer kit accommodates all known windshield types with the exception of a minor modification to Quick Release Compact Windshield, example part no. 58063-04. You will need to oblong the lower bolt holes as shown in figure

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SUZUKI SV1000 PERIODIC MAINTENANCE

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 26-02-2011

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MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP PRO- CEDURES This section describes the servicing procedures for each item of the Periodic Maintenance requirements. AIR CLEANER I Inspect every 6 000 km (4 000 miles, 6 months) and replace every 18 000 km (11 000 miles, 18 months) . • * Remove the seat. (LF6-7) • * Lift and support the feul tank . (C-74-65) • * Remove the air cleaner box cap O. • * Remove the air cleaner element O. • * Carefully use air hose to blow the dust from the cleaner ele- ment. CAUTION Always use air pressure on the throttle body side of the air cleaner element . If air pressure is used on the other side, dirt will be forced into the pores of the air cleaner element thus restricting air flow through the air cleaner element . PERIODIC MAINTENANCE 2-5 2-6PERIODIC MAINTENANCE • * Reinstall the cleaned or new air cleaner element in the reverse order of removal . CAUTION If driving under dusty condition, clean the air cleaner element more frequently. The surest way to accelerate engine wear is to use the engine without the element or to use a ruptured element. Make sure that the air cleaner is in good condition at all times. Life of the engine depends largely on this component! NOTE: When cleaning the air cleaner element, drain water from the air cleaner by removing the drain plug . SPARK PLUG Inspect every 6 000 km (4 000 miles, 6 months) and replace every 12 000 km (7 500 miles, 12 months) . No. 1 (FRONT) SPARK PLUG REMOVAL • * Remove the radiator mounting bolt O. • * Move the radiator forward. • * Remove the spark plug cap O. NOTE: Be careful not to damage the radiator fins . A WARNING The hot radiator and the hot engine can burn you . Wait until the radiator and the engine are cool enough to touch . • * Remove the spark plug with a spark plug wrench. 1 6 I It No. 2 (REAR) SPARK PLUG REMOVAL • * Remove the seat. (r–,-6-7) • * Lift and support the fuel tank . (=4-65) 4-65) • * Disconnect the camshaft position sensor 1O and breather hose (Z. • * Remove the rubber heat shield ® . • * Remove the spark plug cap . • * Remove the spark plug with a spark plug wrench . HEAT RANGE • * Check to see the heat range of the plug . CARBON DEPOSIT •Check to see if there are carbon deposits on the plugs . If carbon is deposited, remove it with a spark plug cleaner machine or carefully using a tool with a pointed end . SPARK PLUG GAP • * Measure the plug gap with a thickness gauge . If out of specification, adjust it to the following gap . 09900-20803 : Thickness gauge Spark plug gap OA Standard: 0.6 – 0 .7 mm (0.024 -0.028 in) ELECTRODES CONDITION •Check to see the worn or burnt condition of the electrodes . If it is extremely worn or burnt, replace the plug . And also replace the plug if it has a broken insulator, damaged thread . CAUTION Confirm the thread size and reach when replacing the plug. If the reach is too short, carbon will be deposited on the screw portion of the plug hole and engine damage may result

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Honda GL1500 EZ Steer Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 16-02-2011

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1. Use the Parts Checklist included with your hardware to verify the contents of the box 2. Remove the front wheel, fender, forks and triple clamps as shown in the Honda Shop Manual. Torque head bearings to 30 ft-lb. 3. Replace the stock fork caps using new seals with the extended caps provided. If you do not already have Progressive fork springs we suggest they be installed for the best results. 4. Install the new triple clamps. Remember to grease the new lower steering bearing. 5. Install the forks into the new triple clamps. Be sure to torque all pinch bolts to factory specifications. Do not over tighten as this can cause undue stress on the new triple clamps. 6. Check the steering lock action by turning the forks fully in both directions. Because of manufacturing tolerances in the fairing mounting bracket the fork tubes sometimes make contact with it at full lock. Usually this can be overcome by giving the handlebar a slight push while engaging the lock. 7. Because the fork tubes are now longer than stock, DO NOT use the clamps that held the brake lines to the stock lower triple clamp. Some models have a temperature sensor mounted under the fairing that may interfere with the plastic cable guide. If interference is noted trim the guide as required. 8. Install the fender and wheel assembly. Be sure the brake hoses are routed to allow full travel of the forks. It is necessary to trim the two upper ears off of the fender upper cover to prevent contact with the fairing during turns. 9. If you have questions please call our EZ-Steer Maintenance The bearings in your EZ-Steer rake kit are normal wear items, not subject to replacement under Champion’s one year Limited Warranty for the product. Failure to follow your motorcycle manufacturer’s recommendations for periodic OEM triple-tree maintenance will accelerate the wear on these bearings. Checking/adjustment of the steering stem nut torque, with the front end lifted, in accordance with your motorcycle manufacturer’s recommendations, is key to reliable bearing service

2004 Vengeance MOTORCYCLE OWNERS MANUAL

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Filed Under (Vengeance) by admin on 21-11-2010

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Vengeance Warrior • Vengeance Raider • Vengeance Vertebreaker • Vengeance Striker • Vengeance Vendetta • Vengeance Vindicator Shifting Gears Starting off and changing gears requires coordination of the clutch and throttle and gearshift lever. If you don’t do things right, the amount of control you have over the bike is lessened. To start off, pull in the clutch, shift into first gear, roll on the throttle a little, and ease out the clutch. You will become familiar with the friction zone (that’s where the clutch begins to take hold and move the bike), and you add a bit more throttle. You don’t want to stall the engine, nor do you want to over-rev it. There’s a sweet spot in there; find it. Shift while traveling in a straight line. Shifting in a curve is not good practice, and something to be avoided. Become familiar with the sound of your engine, so you can tell when you should shift without looking at your instruments. When you downshift to a lower gear, you should (in one swift, smooth movement) be able to squeeze the clutch, rev the engine a little to let it catch the lower gear smoothly, and shift down. When you come to a stop in traffic, leave the bike in first gear with the clutch disengaged (just in case you want to accelerate out of there in a hurry). Who knows what may be coming up behind you. Braking Don’t ever forget: The front brake on your motorcycle can supply as much as 70 percent or more of your stopping power. The single most important thing you can learn about braking is to use that front brake every single time you want to slow down. Always apply both the front and the rear brakes at the same time. If necessary, apply them hard, but not so hard that you lock up either wheel. A locked wheel, as well as causing the bike to skid, results in downright inefficient braking. Turning When you are riding along the road, you lean a motorcycle into a turn. Learning to lean is an essential part of riding a motorcycle. It is a normal function of the bike when you are changing its path of travel – and quite different from turning the steering wheel of your car. To get the motorcycle to lean in a normal turn, press the handlebar in the direction of the turn and maintain slight pressure on that handlebar to take you smoothly through that particular turn. In other words: press right to go right; press left to go left. Your instincts to keep the motorcycle on a smooth path while keeping it from falling over usually take care of this without you even noticing it. (Demonstrate to yourself how a motorcycle moves by pressing a handlebar slightly while traveling in a straight line. The motorcycle will move in the direction of the handlebar you pushed.)

KTM 250/300/380 SX,MXC,EXC ENGINE REPAIR MANUAL

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 19-11-2010

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Carburetor adjustment Basic information on the original carburetor setting The original carburetor setting was adapted for an altitude of approx. 500 meters (1600 ft.) above sea level, and the ambient temperature of approx. 20°C (68°F), mainly for off-road use and central European premium-grade fuel (ROZ 95 MOZ). Mixing ratio 2-stroke motor oil : super fuel 1:40 – 1:60. Basic information on a change of the carburetor setting Always start out from the original carburetor setting. Essential requirements are a clean air filter system, air-tight exhaust system and an intact carburetor. Experience has shown that adjusting the main jet, the idling jet and the jet needle is sufficient and that changes of other parts of the carburetor will not greatly affect engine performance. Checking the setting of the TVC system The function of the TVC system is checked with the engine running. This test checks the start of advance and the end of advance. -For this, remove the left control cover. -Connect a rev counter (either to the ignition cable or to the blue/white cable in the electronics box, depending on the rev counter design). -Start engine, accelerate gently and observe when the TVC system starts to advance (tooth segment creeps upwards) Bleeding of the hydraulic clutch -Take off cover together with rubber bellows. -At the slave cylinder of the clutch, remove the bleeder nipple 2 . It its place, mount the bleeder syringe 3 which is filled with SAE 10 hydraulic oil

REKLUSE MOTOR SPORTS Pro Start Clutch Harley-Davidson OWNER'S MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 24-11-2010

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REAK-IN PERIOD The ProStart clutch requires a short break-in period. During the break-in period, the ProStart should not be operated at steady engine speeds above 3000 RPMs for more than 10 minutes. Breaking-in the ProStart clutch equires start and stop cycles. Riding the ProStart clutch in stop-and-go city traffic for one hour will provide sufficient break-in. If you would like to accelerate the break-in period, find an empty parking lot with ample room and no other traffic. From a stop, bring the motorcycle to 20 miles per hour and then back to a stop. Repeat this process at least 20 times. MAINTENANCE Proper maintenance is important to ensure the longevity of the Rekluse ProStart clutch and the rest of the stock clutch components in your Harley- Davidson Motorcycle. Refer to your owner’s manual for proper primary chaincase oil levels and oil type. Rekluse recommends the use of Harley- Davidson Primary Chaincase lubricant with the Rekluse ProStart clutch. Do not use oils designed for use as automotive engine oil in your Primary Chaincase. If Harley-Davidson Primary Chaincase lubricant is not readily available, a premium-quality Diesel engine oil, such as Shell Rotella T, that does not contain friction modifiers may be substituted. Inspection and adjustment of the Rekluse ProStart clutch should only be performed by a service center trained in Harley-Davidson and Rekluse ProStart repair and maintenance. The Rekluse ProStart clutch should be inspected for adjustment after 1,000 miles of operation. Thereafter, inspection for adjustment should be performed at 5,000 mile intervals

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