Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 25-11-2010
You want a big cruiser but you don’t need a large 1500 cc behemoth that weighs close to half-a-ton fully loaded. You want something you can cruise down the boulevard on but you want to be able to handle a corner or two. You want classic styling but you insist on reliability as well. If these are your guidelines, then Honda and Yamaha might have what you’re looking for in the guise of the Honda Shadow American Classic Edition and Yamaha V-Star 1100. Shadow ACE 1100 The ACE and V-Star have a few things in common: Both sport requisite V-twin powerplants (75° for the V-Star and 45° for the ACE) and both possess typical Japanese refinement. Aside from these similarities, the two rides are very different machines. While both machines are shaft driven, the ACE uses the shaft housing as the swingarm. Although this arrangement is effective, it’s a bit lacking style-wise. However, the whitewall tires and the classic fenders and tank help to create a traditional design that turns heads when you’re out and about. The V-Star uses a different approach, utilizing a pivoting sub-frame design with a hidden mono-shock that keeps the lines fluid and consistent with the rest of the bike. Although this beast isn’t equipped with whitewall tires, it still cuts a graceful, glittering profile. The only flaw we noticed was the small headlight that
Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 08-11-2010
Modify your factory light bar cover to fit on Yamaha brand driving/passing lights. Use a rotary tool to widen the fastening area of the lower backside clips on the cover. The total width between the clips should be 4 æ inches. Trim off º inch on both inside ends of the lower backside attachment clips. Trim the clips equally. The following picture shows a modified cover. Narrow the clips on both ends to fit over the welds on the bar. The cover will not attach to the bar if the width between the clips is too narrow. If the width is too wide the cover may slide sideways on the bar. Narrow both clips equally to center the cover over the welds on the lower edge of the bar. The top of the cover is modified to allow the cover to fit over the bolts on the light bar. The top edge of the cover is filed æ inch deep and 5/8 inch wide to fit over the bolts. The back top edge is filed or ground 1/8 inch to fit over the light bar fastening bracket. Use care when filing chrome covered plastic. The following picture will help to complete this step in the modification. Modify your factory light bar cover to fit on Yamaha brand driving/passing lights. The ends of the cover are modified to allow the cover to fit over the upward curved light bar. The upper openings on the ends of the cover that fit over the bar must be filed to enlarge the area. Grinding the cover ends will allow the cover to fit and clip onto the bar. The end openings are filed or ground at an angle to match the slope of the bar. This picture shows the outer end of the cover. The ends of this cover have been modified by enlarging the area on the upper edges to fit over the upward curving light bar. The ends must be enlarged 1/8 inch on the top edge. The cover edge can be slanted upward to match the curved bar. Modify the cover ends until it fits without the outer chrome cover touching the bar. Modify your factory light bar cover to fit on Yamaha brand driving/passing lights. Sometimes the modified light bar cover may touch the bottom of the headlight. Modify the cover, or adjust the bar or headlight if you notice the headlight touching the bar cover. This modification makes the V-Star motorcycle with Yamaha driving lights look better. The light bar bolts are covered and the chrome cover improves the appearance of the front of your bike. Other V-Star riders will notice how nice the front of your bike looks with the chrome light bar cover installed
Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 27-04-2011
Fortunately, Haynes cruises to the rescue with the introduction of its new Service and Repair Manual for all Yamaha XVS650 and 1100 models – XVS650 (‘97-’05), XVS650A Classic (‘98-’05), XVS1100 (‘99–’05) and XVS1100A Classic (‘00–’05). Hailed as “… essential reading for any biker tackling his own servicing…” by Motor Cycle News, Haynes manuals have an enviable reputation. The new manual provides fully illustrated, step-by-step instructions for DIY servicing, overhaul and repairs of the engine and transmission, fuel and ignition systems, suspension and steering, the braking system and the electrical system. Each task is given a spanner rating for complexity and experience required. Checking and adjusting the valve clearances is rated as three spanners out of five. There are full-colour sections on the history of the models, on daily preride hecks and those all-important wiring diagrams, plus tools required and Haynes Hints. For instance, when changing the brake fluid how to tell when all the old fluid has been displaced The section guiding readers
Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 08-03-2011
REMOVAL Prepare for Service Touring Models: Remove left side saddlebag, left side cover, and maxi-fuse. Refer to SADDLEBAG and MAXI-FUSE in Service Manual. Softail and Dyna Models: To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect battery cables (negative (-) cable first) before proceeding. (00307a) Disconnect negative (-) battery cable first. If positive (+) cable should contact ground with negative (-) cable connected, the resulting sparks can cause a battery explosion, which could result in death or serious injury. (00049a) 1. Remove seat according to the instructions in the Service Manual. 2. Disconnect battery cables, negative (-) cable first. 3. Remove fuel tank according to the instructions in the Service Manual. Sportster Models: Remove left side cover and maxi-fuse. Refer to MAXI-FUSE in Service Manual. V-Rod Models: Remove right side cover and maxi-fuse. Refer to MAXI-FUSE in Service Manual. Remove Existing Mirrors Touring and Softail (Except FXSTD, FLSTF) Models Left side: See Figure 1. Remove acorn nut (1), star washer (2), and existing mirror (3) from clutch hand control assembly. Discard star washer and mirror but save acorn nut. Right side: See Figure 2. Remove acorn nut (1), star washer (2), and existing mirror (3) from front brake hand control assembly. Discard star washer and mirror but save acorn nut. 2 1 3 is03431 1. Acorn nut 2. Star washer 3. Mirror, left Figure 1. Remove L.H. Mirror (Except Sportster) 2 1 3 is03432 1. Acorn nut 2. Star washer 3. Mirror, right Figure 2. Remove R.H. Mirror (Touring, Softail – Except FXSTD, FLSTF) Dyna, FXSTD, FLSTF, and VRSC Models 1. Left side: See Figure 1. Remove acorn nut (1), star washer (2), and existing mirror (3) from clutch hand control assembly. Discard star washer and mirror but save acorn nut. 2. Right side: See Figure 3. Loosen ball stud clamp (1) to remove directional lamp assembly (2). Remove retainer (3), star washer (4), and existing mirror (5) from front brake hand control assembly. Discard star washer and mirror but save remaining parts. 2 5 3 1 4 is03428 1. Ball stud clamp 2. Directional lamp assembly 3. Retainer 4. Star washer 5. Mirror, right Figure 3. Remove R.H. Mirror (Dyna, FXSTD, FLSTF, VRSC) Sportster Models Left side: See Figure 4. Remove locknut (1), washer (2), and existing mirror (3) from clutch hand control assembly. Discard washer and mirror but save locknut. Right side: See Figure 4. Remove locknut (1), washer (2), and existing mirror (4) from front brake hand control assembly. Discard washer and mirror but save locknut. 3 2 1 2 1 4 is03414 1. Locknut (2) 2. Washer (2) 3. Mirror, left 4. Mirror, right Figure 4. Remove Mirrors (Sportster) INSTALLATION Install Lighted Mirrors Touring and Softail (Except FXSTD, FLSTF, FXSTS, FLSTS) Models 1. Left side: See Figure 5. Install mirror stem (1) through clutch hand control assembly.
Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 10-11-2010
Removing Your Old Filter and Beauty Cover In order to install the new Remote Oil Filter Kit, you’ll need to remove the stock Yamaha “beauty cover” and the old filter and filter cover. Remove the engine parts necessary to access the stock filter as outlined in the V-Star owner’s manual. The parts should come off in this order: 1. Muffler assembly 2. Front exhaust pipe 3. Rear brake reservoir cover bolt and brake cover (the reservoir should not be removed, it can remain in place and be moved aside as needed) 4. Right floorboard (this can be simply loosened, by loosening the two bolts underneath) With the above parts removed, you can remove the Allen bolts holding the beauty cover and filter cap from your engine. There are five Allen bolts holding the beauty cover (so named, because most of the cover just covers the chromed side of the engine There are five bolts holding the cover. Ignore the three on the “Yamaha” cap in the middle – these just hold the Yamaha cap to the beauty cover itself. One bolt is hidd – in this picture – just be the Yamaha ca en low p. The bottommost bolt on the beauty cover will likely leak some oil when you remove it – it holds on the inner oil filter cover. Once you remove the beauty cover, you can remove the oil filter cover, and the oil filter Keep these two “O” rings, you’ll need them for the remote kit Old oil filter. Toss it away; you’ll never need one again! Throw away the old filter, and carefully remove the orange and black “O” rings from the filter cover (see picture above). These two “O” rings will go on the new engine cap in the same order as on the old filter cover. “O” ring for bottom bolt. When the beauty cover and filter cover are removed, be sure not to lose the tiny “O” ring that the bottom bolt goes through. Preparing the Remote Oil Filter Kit Remove the orange and black “O” rings from the stock filter cover plate, and place them on the Remote Oil Filter Kit engine cap – black on the inside, orange on the outside – just like on the stock filter cover.