front axel torque specs for a yamaha 2006 1100 vstar classic

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Honda Shadow A.C.E. v. Yamaha V-Star 1100 Middleweight Import Cruiser Shootout

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 25-11-2010

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You want a big cruiser but you don’t need a large 1500 cc behemoth that weighs close to half-a-ton fully loaded. You want something you can cruise down the boulevard on but you want to be able to handle a corner or two. You want classic styling but you insist on reliability as well. If these are your guidelines, then Honda and Yamaha might have what you’re looking for in the guise of the Honda Shadow American Classic Edition and Yamaha V-Star 1100. Shadow ACE 1100 The ACE and V-Star have a few things in common: Both sport requisite V-twin powerplants (75° for the V-Star and 45° for the ACE) and both possess typical Japanese refinement. Aside from these similarities, the two rides are very different machines. While both machines are shaft driven, the ACE uses the shaft housing as the swingarm. Although this arrangement is effective, it’s a bit lacking style-wise. However, the whitewall tires and the classic fenders and tank help to create a traditional design that turns heads when you’re out and about. The V-Star uses a different approach, utilizing a pivoting sub-frame design with a hidden mono-shock that keeps the lines fluid and consistent with the rest of the bike. Although this beast isn’t equipped with whitewall tires, it still cuts a graceful, glittering profile. The only flaw we noticed was the small headlight that

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YAMAHA V-STAR 650/ 1100 CLASSIC F ATS/ SLIMS MOUNTING KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 10-11-2010

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1. Cover gas tank and front fender with towels to avoid damage during installation. 2. Install the two mounting plates onto the windshield, using the bottom and third bolt up. Leave the nylon washers off. The small tab goes to the bottom, big one at the top. (see Figure 1) Tabs face out away from the headlight when installed correctly. 3. Remove the headlight lens and chrome Turn Signal Bar cover and set them in a safe place. (see figure 2) 4. Remove the (3) socket head cap screws that hold the Headlight housing and let it rest carefully so that it does not fall. 5. Remove the turn signal bar by extracting the two socket head cap screws and let it dangle. (see figure 2) 6. Loosely install the throttle-side Bracket and Headlight using one of the (3) new longer 6mm x 30mm socket head cap screws. The nylon washer goes in between Headlight Housing and Headlight Bracket. (see figure 3) Install one of the (2) new 8mm x 45mm SS flat head screw and spacer in the lower hole to mount the turn signal bar. Insert the bolt in this order: bolt – windshield bracket – spacer – turn signal bar, and loosely tighten . (see Figure 3) Repeat these steps for the Clutch side. (See figure 4 for optional Cobra Light Bar installation, or to move Turn Signals forward to mount Lowers closer to the windshield.) 7. Once both windshield brackets are in place and all the new bolts are in place, Tighten all bolts. Re-install the chrome Turn Signal Bar cover. (Leave the chrome cover off if you use the alternate installation for Light Bar or Lowers). Re-Install the Headlight lens. 8. Loosen the (4) anchor bolts on the side of the windshield brackets. Slip the windshield mounting plates onto the brackets starting with the upper slot first then slip the bottom slot in. Adjust height, angle and tighten all bolts. This is a quick change kit. ALWAYS tighten all mounting bolts after removing or installing the windshield

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Yamaha V-Star 1100 Custom and Classic cruisers Floorboard/ Footpeg Extension Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 09-11-2010

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Start on the right (brake) side. 1) Loosen the nut at the end of the brake rod. This will allow you to unscrew the brake rod from the brake lever clevis later. 2) Pull out the cotter pin and remove the pivot pin. Unscrew the clevis 3) Then using a 14mm socket or box-end wrench, remove the two bolts that hold the brake floorboard/footpeg assembly (whichever your bike has) to the frame. These bolts are torqued to 46 ft lbs, so this may be a bit difficult. 1. Loosen this nut 2. Remove the cotter pin (other side of this pivot pin) remove the pivot pin a unscrew the nut to remove the clevis nd 3. Remove these bolts When you remove the floorboard/footpeg bracket, be careful not to pull the brake switch wires loose. You may wish to cut the cable tie for more room, and then rest the bracket, with the footpeg or floorboard attached, on a short box, or block of wood, to keep it handy. Install the new brake rod, to the end of the existing brake rod. Re-install the pivot pin, and the pivot pin cotter pin. Installing the extension bar: Note that the extension bar is bolted so that it rises up in front. Use the new bolts to mount the floorboard/ footpeg bracket to the threaded holes in front. Install the Extension in the proper orientation (angled holes bolt up to the frame, with front of the bar higher than the rear – see photo) using the stock bolts for the extensions to the frame and the new bolts and washers supplied with the kit, on the forward threaded section to relocate the floorboard or footpeg bracket. The use of LocTite ® Blue here is recommended. At this point the right side Floorboard or Footpeg should be secured tightly and the brake lever hanging loose. Now install the Brake rod extension, threading the male end to the original brake rod. Don’t tighten this end yet Place the clevis over the forward most end of the brake rod extension, and threat the clevis nut onto the end of the rod. Bring the brake rod upright, to meet with the clevis at the end of the brake rod extension and replace the pivot pin. Before reinstalling the cotter pin, check the angle of the brake lever, to insure that you have the brake pedal where you want. If necessary, adjust the extension rod in or out, until you are satisfied, and then reinstall the cotter pin into the pivot pin. Check the Brake switch wire and install a new cable tie if required. Note: Due to utilizing a thicker material, 1/2″ versus 3/8″ from our competitor, the Brake rod is now positioned at a greater angle. Even with the angle, braking performance is not affected, but if you wish to bring the master cylinder in line with the brake rod, do this. Loosen the rear, and remove the front Allen bolt. Then place two washers behind the front bolt, under the bracket, and then re-install the bolts To change the angle of the brake rod, 1) loosen and remove the two master cylinder bracket Allen bolts 2) insert two washers behind the front bolt (front of the bike), behind the master cylinder bracket 3) tighten both bolts. Do not install any washers on the rear mounting hole. This will make the angle of the Brake Rod less aggressive. Step Two – Left Side For the left (Shifter) side, 1) use an open-end 10 mm wrench, to unscrew the two nuts that hold the shift rod in place. PLEASE note that one end of the shift rod has a left hand threaded nut. SAVE the nuts, as you will need them on the new longer Polished Stainless Steel Shift Rod. 2) Remove the stock shift rod. 3) Then using a 14mm socket or box-end wrench, remove the two bolts that hold the shifter floorboard/footpeg assembly (whichever your bike has) to the frame.

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V-Star 1100 And Dragstar 1100 Modification V-Star Driving/ Passing Lights Factory Chrome Light Bar Cover Installation

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 08-11-2010

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Modify your factory light bar cover to fit on Yamaha brand driving/passing lights. Use a rotary tool to widen the fastening area of the lower backside clips on the cover. The total width between the clips should be 4 æ inches. Trim off º inch on both inside ends of the lower backside attachment clips. Trim the clips equally. The following picture shows a modified cover. Narrow the clips on both ends to fit over the welds on the bar. The cover will not attach to the bar if the width between the clips is too narrow. If the width is too wide the cover may slide sideways on the bar. Narrow both clips equally to center the cover over the welds on the lower edge of the bar. The top of the cover is modified to allow the cover to fit over the bolts on the light bar. The top edge of the cover is filed æ inch deep and 5/8 inch wide to fit over the bolts. The back top edge is filed or ground 1/8 inch to fit over the light bar fastening bracket. Use care when filing chrome covered plastic. The following picture will help to complete this step in the modification. Modify your factory light bar cover to fit on Yamaha brand driving/passing lights. The ends of the cover are modified to allow the cover to fit over the upward curved light bar. The upper openings on the ends of the cover that fit over the bar must be filed to enlarge the area. Grinding the cover ends will allow the cover to fit and clip onto the bar. The end openings are filed or ground at an angle to match the slope of the bar. This picture shows the outer end of the cover. The ends of this cover have been modified by enlarging the area on the upper edges to fit over the upward curving light bar. The ends must be enlarged 1/8 inch on the top edge. The cover edge can be slanted upward to match the curved bar. Modify the cover ends until it fits without the outer chrome cover touching the bar. Modify your factory light bar cover to fit on Yamaha brand driving/passing lights. Sometimes the modified light bar cover may touch the bottom of the headlight. Modify the cover, or adjust the bar or headlight if you notice the headlight touching the bar cover. This modification makes the V-Star motorcycle with Yamaha driving lights look better. The light bar bolts are covered and the chrome cover improves the appearance of the front of your bike. Other V-Star riders will notice how nice the front of your bike looks with the chrome light bar cover installed

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Yamaha XVS650 and 1100 Drag Star/V-Star Service and Repair Manual

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 27-04-2011

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Fortunately, Haynes cruises to the rescue with the introduction of its new Service and Repair Manual for all Yamaha XVS650 and 1100 models – XVS650 (‘97-’05), XVS650A Classic (‘98-’05), XVS1100 (‘99–’05) and XVS1100A Classic (‘00–’05). Hailed as “… essential reading for any biker tackling his own servicing…” by Motor Cycle News, Haynes manuals have an enviable reputation. The new manual provides fully illustrated, step-by-step instructions for DIY servicing, overhaul and repairs of the engine and transmission, fuel and ignition systems, suspension and steering, the braking system and the electrical system. Each task is given a spanner rating for complexity and experience required. Checking and adjusting the valve clearances is rated as three spanners out of five. There are full-colour sections on the history of the models, on daily preride hecks and those all-important wiring diagrams, plus tools required and Haynes Hints. For instance, when changing the brake fluid how to tell when all the old fluid has been displaced The section guiding readers

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YAMAHA V-Star 1100 Motorcycle Enhancements Remote Oil Filter Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 10-11-2010

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Removing Your Old Filter and Beauty Cover In order to install the new Remote Oil Filter Kit, you’ll need to remove the stock Yamaha “beauty cover” and the old filter and filter cover. Remove the engine parts necessary to access the stock filter as outlined in the V-Star owner’s manual. The parts should come off in this order: 1. Muffler assembly 2. Front exhaust pipe 3. Rear brake reservoir cover bolt and brake cover (the reservoir should not be removed, it can remain in place and be moved aside as needed) 4. Right floorboard (this can be simply loosened, by loosening the two bolts underneath) With the above parts removed, you can remove the Allen bolts holding the beauty cover and filter cap from your engine. There are five Allen bolts holding the beauty cover (so named, because most of the cover just covers the chromed side of the engine There are five bolts holding the cover. Ignore the three on the “Yamaha” cap in the middle – these just hold the Yamaha cap to the beauty cover itself. One bolt is hidd – in this picture – just be the Yamaha ca en low p. The bottommost bolt on the beauty cover will likely leak some oil when you remove it – it holds on the inner oil filter cover. Once you remove the beauty cover, you can remove the oil filter cover, and the oil filter Keep these two “O” rings, you’ll need them for the remote kit Old oil filter. Toss it away; you’ll never need one again! Throw away the old filter, and carefully remove the orange and black “O” rings from the filter cover (see picture above). These two “O” rings will go on the new engine cap in the same order as on the old filter cover. “O” ring for bottom bolt. When the beauty cover and filter cover are removed, be sure not to lose the tiny “O” ring that the bottom bolt goes through. Preparing the Remote Oil Filter Kit Remove the orange and black “O” rings from the stock filter cover plate, and place them on the Remote Oil Filter Kit engine cap – black on the inside, orange on the outside – just like on the stock filter cover.

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ODYSSEY DRYCELL MOTORCYCLE BATTERY COMPATIBILITY

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 30-10-2010

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Yamaha R1 2007-2008 Frame Slider Installation

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 01-01-2012

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Installation Steps: 1. Remove left and right body panels. 2. Remove the left side engine stud. Mount the left side offset using 99-HB-SH10125080 Socket Cap 10 X 1.25 X 80 Main Engine Stud. Tip: Only tighten enough so you can still move the offset by hand. Loosely mount the left side body panel. Adjust the offset so the frame slider when mounted will clear the bodywork. There is also a groove cut in the offset, this is so the body can clear the offset. 3. With the offset in the correct position remove body and torque down to OEM torque specs. 4. Using one drop of blue thread locker mount the left side puck to the offset with 99-HB- SH10150045 Socket Cap 10 X 1.5 X 45 (Holds puck to offset). Torque down to 30 to 32 foot lbs. 5. Remove the right side engine stud. Mount the right side offset using 99-HB-SH10125080 Socket Cap 10 X 1.25 X 80 Main Engine Stud. Tip: Only tighten enough so you can still move the offset by hand. Loosely mount the right side body panel. Adjust the offset so the frame slider when mounted will clear the bodywork. There is also a groove cut in the offset, this is so the body can clear the offset. 6. With the offset in the correct position remove body and torque down to OEM torque specs. 7. Using one drop of blue thread locker mount the right side puck to the offset with 99-HB- SH10150045 Socket Cap 10 X 1.5 X 45 (Holds puck to offset). Torque down to 30 to 32 foot lbs. 8. Mount left and right bodywork

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YAMAHA FJR 1300 2006 GPS-Halter INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 10-01-2012

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Mounting Instructions SW-MOTECH products should be installed by a qualified, experienced motorcycle technician. If you are unsure of your ability to properly install a product, please have the product installed by your local motorcycle dealer. SW Motech takes no responsibility for damages caused by improper installation. All screws, bolts and nuts, including all replacement hardware provided by SW-MOTECH, should be tightened to the torque specified in the OEM maintenance manual for your motorcycle. If no torque specifications are provided in the OEM maintenance manual, the following torques may be used: All screws, bolts and nuts should be checked after driving the first 50 km to ensure that all are tightened to the proper torque. Medium strength liquid thread-locker (i.e., “Locktite”) should be used to secure all screws, bolts and nuts. Alle vom Motorrad gelösten Schrauben sind gemäß Herstellerangaben wieder

2006-2008 Yamaha R6 FK002D512GP ( GP Kit ) INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 29-01-2011

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Step 1: Identify the key components that complete our GP kit: You should have 3-line (front kit), 3 SINGLE banjo bolt and 1 C-CLIP. There are also a total of 8 washers. 6 will be used, and 2 are spares. We strongly suggest having a professional mechanic install these brake lines, all other installations VOID warranty. Inspect your brake system after every race. Step 2: Cover the complete front end of the bike so that if any brake fluid does spill the paint will not be damaged, brake fluid will spill, there is no question!! Step 3: Uninstall stock hoses; be aware of how the stock system was routed in case you need to re-install it. Step 4: Install the GALFER GP 3-Line starting with the master cylinder line (top line). Torque level is 12 to 13 ft pounds. (See picture A2) Step 5: Install the C-CLIP provided to the lower triple tee top line needs to be held by c-clip [see picture A4&A5] . Lower lines will travel in front of the forks to the calipers; two single banjo bolt (see picture A1) are included for master cylinder to each caliper. The positioning sequence on the master cylinder is as follows: Master cylinder, washer, forty-degree banjo (Top line), and washer. Single banjo bolt torque level is 12 FT Pounds. ( See picture A2 for positioning) Make sure that the [ CALIPER fittings ] on each caliper are positioned [ positioning ] (see picture A6- A7) . Thread banjo bolt into the caliper, and torque bolt to 12 to 13 Ft pounds. Before you proceed to the next step, please check for clearance of the lines. Compress the front end to make sure that the lines are not binding with anything. When the front end is fully extended or fully compressed, double check that the lines are traveling correctly and are clear of any obstructions. Once the lines have been checked for clearance. Proceed to step #6 Step 6: Bleed brake system according to owner’s manual, and build appropriate pressure. Finishing with GALFER DOT 4-brake fluid is recommended.

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