front end torque specs 2005 wide gkide

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HARLEY DAVIDSON SCREAMIN' EAGLE STREET PERFORMANCE TOURING END CAP MUFFLER KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 14-04-2011

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PRODUCT INFORMATION Noise Emission Warranty Harley-Davidson warrants that these mufflers, at the time of sale, meet all applicable United States E.P.A. Federal noise and Emissions standards. This warranty extends to the first person who buys these mufflers for proposes other than resale, and to all subsequent buyers. Warranty claims should be directed to an authorized Harley-Davidson Dealer. Tampering Prohibition Federal law prohibits any modification to this exhaust system which causes the motorcycle to exceed the Federal noise standard. Use of the motorcycle with such a modified exhaust system is also prohibited. NOTE This product should be checked for repair or replacement if the motorcycle noise has increased significantly through use. Otherwise, the owner may become subject to penalties under state and local ordinances. INSTALLATION NOTE Install end caps on mufflers before installing mufflers on vehicle. Install Direct Bolt-On End Caps 1. See Figure 1. Install end cap (2) to muffler (3) with four socket head cap screws (1). Tighten to 82-86 in-lbs (9.3- 9.7 Nm) . 2. Repeat for opposite side muffler. 3 2 1 is05426 1. Socket head screw (4) 2. End cap 3. Muffler Figure 1. Install End Cap on Muffler Install Attachment Ring End Caps 1. See Figure 2. Slide the three U-nuts (2) onto the bosses of the end cap attachment ring cup on the muffler. 2. Install attachment ring (1) to muffler with four socket head cap screws (3). Locate the attachment ring with a U-nut in the 12 o’clock position. Tighten to 82-86 in-lbs (9.3-9.7 Nm) . 3. Slide end cap (5) onto muffler body being careful to align holes in end cap with U-nuts. 4. Install the three countersunk screws (4) and tighten screws securely. 5. Repeat for opposite side muffler

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2005 HONDA CBR 600RR Superbike BRAKE LINES INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 03-01-2011

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Step 1: Identify the key components that complete our Super bike KIT, you should have 2 lines (front Kit), and 1 Double banjo bolt and 2 lower adapters. There are also a total of 7 washers, 5 will be used, and 2 are spares. We ALWAYS strongly suggest having a professional mechanic install these brake lines, all other installations VOID warranty. Inspect your brake system after every race. Step 2: Cover the complete front end of the bike so that if any brake fluid does spill the paint will not be damaged, brake fluid will spill, there is no question!! Step 3: Uninstall stock hoses; be aware of how the stock system was routed in case you need to re-install it. Step 4: Install onto the calipers the Galfer adapter, the course thread area threads to the caliper with one washer. Torque level is 12 to 13 ft pounds. (See picture on adapter A) Step 5: Install right and left lines to the master cylinder, the right line is the shortest out of the two lines. These lines will travel from the master cylinder to the calipers; a double banjo bolt is included to run two lines down. (Picture B). This is the sequence on the master cylinder: Master cylinder, washer, straight banjo (from right line), washer, 12 degree banjo (from left line) washer and double banjo hex. Double banjo bolt torque level is 12 FT Pounds . (For positioning see picture G). Banjo 12 on left line must be facing a bit more to the left than the straight banjo of right line, so that the lines can cross at lower triple clamp better. On the calipers, make sure that the 90-degree fittings are pointing out a little bit, thread banjo end to the adapter, torque the end to 6 ½ Ft pounds . (See pictures C, D, E) Before you begin bleeding process, please check for clearance of the lines, push on the front end down, see that the lines are not binding with anything and that when the front end is fully extended or fully under pressure the lines are traveling correctly and clear from any obstructions. Ones the lines have been check for clearance; the two lines are Zip tied together at the same level of the lower triple clamp area. (See pictures F), please make sure that lines cross each other. Step 6: Bleed system, conventional bleeding, pump and release the air from caliper bleed nipples… DOT 4-brake fluid is recommended.

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HAR:EY DAVIDSON FLHR/C/S (Road King) FRONT END LOWERING KIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 01-03-2011

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Removal (Left and Right Forks) 1. Place suitable blocking under frame to raise front wheel several inches off the floor. For best results, use a hydraulic center stand on a level surface. 2. Refer to Touring Model Service Manual and remove front wheel, fender and brakes. 3. Refer to Touring Model Service Manual and remove headlamp nacelle. 4. Loosen fork cap bolt from fork tube plug at top of fork tube, but do not remove. 5. See Figure 1. Standing at front of vehicle, loosen pinch bolt (with lockwasher) on right side of lower fork bracket, but do not remove. 6. Spray glass cleaner on fork tube above the rubber fork stop. After lubricating surfaces, move fork stop up fork tube until it contacts bottom of upper fork bracket. 7. Holding fork slider to prevent fork from dropping, remove fork cap bolt from fork tube plug. Slide fork tube down and out of upper fork bracket, fork stop, lower fork bracket and slider cover. 1 WARNING 1 WARNING 1 WARNING 1 of 5 ® Kit Number 54614-05 Figure 1. Loosen Pinch Bolt on Lower Fork Bracket i04808 1 Fork cap bolt 2 Fork stop 3 Pinch bolt 8. Thread fork cap bolt back into fork tube plug to prevent loss of oil while handling. 9. Move forks to bench area. Place suitable drain pan on floor beneath vise. 10. Repeat Steps 2-6 to remove left fork. Left And Right Fork-Disassembly 1. Remove nuts, lockwashers, flat washers and axle holder from studs at end of fork slider. 2. See Figure 2. Obtain FORK TUBE HOLDER (Part Number HD-41177) and proceed as follows: a. Clamp end of tool in vise in a horizontal position with plastic knobs facing toward you. b. See Figure 3. With the fork cap bolt topside, clamp fork tube between rubber pads on inboard side of tool. Tighten knobs until fork tube is securely held. 3. Remove fork cap bolt from fork tube plug. Remove quad ring seal. Save bolt but discard quad ring seal. 4. Using wrench flat, slowly unthread fork tube plug from fork tube. Be aware that fork tube plug is under spring pressure, so have a firm grasp on plug as the last thread is turned. 5. Remove fork spring from fork tube. 6. Remove fork assembly from fork tube holder. 7. Turning fork upside down, drain fork oil into drain pan. For best results, slowly pump fork tube and slider at least 10 times. 8. Install fork spring back into fork tube. 9. Place a shop rag on the floor, and turning fork assembly upside down, press end of spring against rag. While compressing spring to prevent rotation of damper tube, remove 6mm screw from end of fork slider. Use air impact wrench for best results. 10. Remove and discard fork spring. 11. Remove and discard damper tube. 12. Remove wear ring and rebound spring. Discard rebound spring. Do not expand or stretch retaining clip to remove from fork tube or clip may become bent or distorted. 13. Using pick tool, remove retaining clip between fork slider and fork tube. 14. Remove fork tube from fork slider. NOTE To overcome any resistance, use the fork tube as a slide hammer, that is, first push fork tube into fork slider and then pull it outward with a moderate amount of force. Repeat this sequence until fork tube separates from fork slider. 15. Slide fork oil seal, slider spacer and slider bushing off end of fork tube. Discard fork oil seal and slider bushing. 16. Remove the lower stop. Right and Left Fork-Assembly Exercise caution to avoid scratching or nicking fork tube. Damaging tube can result in fork oil leaks after assembly. 1. See Service Parts Illustration. Obtain new Damper Tube (Item 7, Part Number 46532-04) from kit. Obtain new Rebound Spring (Item 8, Part Number 46273-02) from kit and install on opposite end. Install wear ring removed in step 12. 2. With the wear ring topside, slide new damper tube into fork tube, so that tube end drops through hole at bottom of fork tube. Install lower stop at end of damper tube. 3. Install fork slider in fork tube holder. Slide fork tube into fork slider. 4. If necessary, obtain new slider bushing (14) (Part Number 45940-84, not included). Coat slider bushing ID with clean fork oil. Slide slider bushing down fork tube. 5. Slide slider spacer down fork tube until it contacts slider bushing.

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2004 – 2005 Camry, Highlander, And Solara, 2005 Matrix & Corolla PASSENGER AIRBAG INDICATOR LAMP

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 10-10-2011

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passengers weighing approximately less than 100 pounds, depending on their seating position. It is important for the front seat passengers to know that proper operation of the advanced frontal airbag system is highly dependent on the pressure placed on the seat bottom. Situations that add or subtract sensed weight can result in occupant misclassification. To minimize this situation: Check seating posture. Passengers should be seated upright with their back against the seat back and feet on the floor. Check loading conditions. Extra weight from items, such as bags or groceries or toys, hanging on the seat back can add to the sensed weight of the front seat passenger. A rear seat passenger lifting the front seat with their legs, objects placed under the front seat, or the front seatback in contact with the rear seat can subtract from the sensed weight of the front seat passenger. If the passenger airbag indicator lamp continues to switch ON to OFF after checking the above conditions, perform the following repair procedure. NOTE: The safest place for children is in the rear seat. Please note that Toyota recommends that you never install a rear-facing child restraint in the front passenger seat, even if the passenger “Airbag OFF” lamp is illuminated. Please refer to you Owner’s Manual for additional details. 2004 – 2005 model year Camry, Highlander, and Solara vehicles produced BEFORE the Production Change Effective VINs shown on the following page. 2005 model year Matrix and Corolla vehicles produced BEFORE the Production Change Effective VINs shown on the following page

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HARLEY DAVIDSON XLH 1200cc BIG BORE KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 06-03-2011

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Boring and Honing Procedures 1. Check again for burrs on cylinder gasket surfaces and remove burrs before performing Step 2. 2. Install original head and base gaskets, CYLINDER TORQUE PLATES (Part Number 33446-A) and TORQUE BOLTS (Part Number 33446-4). Tighten TORQUE BOLTS following tightening procedure given in the INSTALLATION, CYLINDER HEAD procedure in the ENGINE section of the Service Manual. NOTE Torque plates, properly tightened and installed with gaskets, simulate engine operating conditions. Measurements will vary as much as 0.001 inch without torque plate. 3. The cylinder must be bored with gaskets and torque plates attached. Bore the cylinder to 0.003 inch under the desired finish size. 1 WARNING CAUTION CAUTION 1 WARNING Kit Number 4. Hone the cylinder to its finished size (See Figure 1) using a 280 grit rigid hone followed by a 240 grit flexible ball hone. Honing must be done with torque plates attached. All honing must be done from the bottom (crankcase) end of the cylinder. Work for a 60 degree crosshatch pattern. 5. See Figure 1. After machining and honing, chamfer the bottom edge of the cylinder liner. the chamfer provides a beveled surface for easier installation of the cylinder over the piston rings. Break leading edge of liner to a flat surface. The bottom edge of the liner will be somewhat sharp after machining. This sharp edge could easily be damaged during installation of the cylinder. Piston Installation The 1200cc pistons have an arrow on the top of the piston. This arrow must face the front of the engine when piston is installed. There is no front cylinder piston or rear cylinder piston. New pistons can be installed in either cylinder. Check piston rings for proper side clearance and end gap (See XLH Service Manual). Be sure end gaps of adjacent rings are installed 90 degrees apart. Assembly Follow assembly and torque specifications given in the ENGINE section of the applicable Service Manual. Replace original gaskets, O-rings and seals with new components furnished in kit. NOTE Push rod covers on 1991 and later models are one-piece and the correct O-rings are as follows: Bottom – Part Number 17944-89 Upper – Part Number 11190 Engine Break In For the first 500 miles, to wear-in critical parts, observe these few simple driving rules: During the first 50 miles, keep the engine speed below 2500 RPM in any gear. Up to 500 miles, vary the engine speed, avoiding any steady speed for long distances. Engine speed up to 3000 RPM is permissible in any gear. Avoid fast starts at wide open throttle. Drive slowly until engine warms up. Avoid running the engine at extremely low RPM in higher gears. 2 of 3 -J00001 1200cc CYLINDER FINAL BORE SIZE AFTER HONING STANDARD BORE DIAMETER 3.4980 inch + 0.0002 inch Figure 1. Bottom Edge of Cylinder Liner Chamfer i04852 Break Edge to Flat Surface

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2008 FLT Police Models Service Manual Supplement

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 25-11-2010

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ITEM SERVICED 14-21 ft-lbs (19.0-28.5 Nm) Drain plug torque Engine oil and filter 4 qt. (3.8 L) Oil capacity Hand tighten 1/2-3/4 turn after gasket contact Filter 63798-99A Chrome filter part number 63731-99A Black filter part number FORMULA+ TRANSMISSION AND PRIMARY CHAIN LUBRICATION (Part No. 99851-05) Lubricant type and capacity Primary chain lubricant Wet: 38 oz. (1124 ml) Dry: 45 oz. (1331 ml) 14-21 ft-lbs (19.0-28.5 Nm) Primary chaincase drain plug torque 1/2-1 turn Adjuster screw free play Clutch adjustment 72-120 in-lbs (8.1-13.6 Nm) Adjuster screw locknut torque 1/16-1/8 in. (1.6-3.2 mm) Free play at hand lever 84-108 in-lbs (9.5-12.2 Nm) Clutch inspection cover torque Dipstick at FULL with motorcycle on jiffy stand and filler plug resting on threads. Lubricant level Transmission lubricant FORMULA+ TRANSMISSION AND PRIMARY CHAIN LUBRICATION (Part No. 99851-05) Lubricant type and capacity 32 oz (0.95 liters) 14-21 ft-lbs (19.0-28.5 Nm) Transmission drain plug torque 25-75 in-lbs (2.8-8.5 Nm) Transmission filler plug/dipstick torque Front: 36 psi (248 kPA) Pressure: solo rider Tire pressure and wear Rear: 36-40 psi (248-276 kPA) Replace if less than 1/32 in. (0.8 mm) of tread pattern Wear 55 in-lbs (6.2 Nm) minimum Spoke nipple torque Wheel spokes 99953-99A (12 oz.) D.O.T. 4 hydraulic brake fluid part number Brake fluid level Front: 0.20 in. (5.0 mm) Fluid level (from top of master cylinder reservoir) Rear: 0.26 in. (6.5 mm) Front: 7-10 in-lbs (0.8-1.1 Nm) Master cylinder reservoir cover screw torque Rear: 12-15 in-lbs (1.4-1.7 Nm) 0.016 in. (0.4 mm) Minimum brake pad thickness Brake pads and discs 75-102 in-lbs (8.5.-11.5 Nm) Brake caliper pad pin torque Front: 0.18 in. (4.5 mm) Minimum brake disc thickness Rear: 0.25 in. (6.3 mm) 0.008 in. (0.2 mm) Maximum brake disc lateral runout (warpage) 10 lb. (4.5 kg) Upward force applied at midpoint of bottom belt strand Drive belt deflection 3/8-7/16 in. (9.5-11.1 mm) FLHTP 1/4-5/16 in. (6.4-7.9 mm) FLHP/FLHPE 40-60 in-lbs (4.5-6.8 Nm) Air cleaner cover bracket screw torque Air cleaner 36-60 in-lbs (4.1-6.8 Nm) Air cleaner cover screw torque LOCTITE MEDIUM STRENGTH THREADLOCKER 243 (BLUE) Air cleaner cover screw Threadlocker Part No. 99642-97 (6 ml) LUBIT-8 SUPER OIL, Part No. 94968-85TV (1/4 fl. oz.) Lubricant part number Clutch cable 35-45 in-lbs (4.0-5.1 Nm) Handlebar switch housing screw torque

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Indian Rocker Arm End Play Rear Cylinder/ Front Cylinder Installation

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Filed Under (Indian) by admin on 12-11-2010

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Rear Cylinder 1Rotate the engine so that the rear piston is at Top Dead Center (TDC), compression stroke, so no load is on the valves. 2Using a 3/16″ allen wrench, remove the four screws securing the rear cylinder rocker cover. 3Remove the cover and inspect both O-ring seals. Discard if damaged or worn. 4Push both rocker arms towards the valve end support bracket (A) and using a feeler gauge check the gap between the rocker arms and the pushrod end support bracket (B). NOTE: The Rocker arm end play specification should be between 0.003″ to 0.012″. 5 Compare the measurement to the specification an determine whether adjustment is necessary. If the end play is within specification, adjustment will not be required. Refit the rocker cover (instructions 14 to 15) and carry out the same inspection on the front cylinder . If the measurement is outside the specification, adjustment will be required and shimming will be necessary (follow the remainder of these instructions). Adjustment 6Using a 1/4″ allen wrench remove the 4 screws securing the rocker shaft assembly.Refit the LH support bracket and reposition the complete assembly on the rocker base. Make sure that the three dowels are in place and the slots in the rocker shafts are properly aligned with the mounting screw holes in the RH support bracket. 11Clean the threads of the 4 support bracket screws and apply Blue Loctite to the first 4 threads. 12Fit the 1-3/4″ screws into the LH support bracket (A) and the 2″ screws to the RH bracket (B). Torque all screws in cross pattern to 16-20 foot-pounds. CAUTION: The rear piston must be at TDC, compression stroke, when tightening the support bracket screws. 13Re-check the rocker end play to ensure it is within specifica- tion. 13Lubricate the two O-rings with clean engine oil and refit them in the grooves in the rocker base. 14Refit the rocker cover.

Honda GL1000/1100 starter motor Removal/ Over haul Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 08-04-2011

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1. Remove the three long bolts that hold the sections together and separate them. Be careful as there are a series of flat thrust washers on each end of the armature (located in the middle section). 2. The end cap basically performs no function other than to cover the brush plate and commutator area as well as center the armature shaft in a pressed in bushing located in the end of the cap. 3. The drive end contains the reduction gearing and if need be, can be disassembled to replace the bearing. This is extremely unlikely. The shaft should turn freely and normally only requires a cleaning and grease application. If the bearing in fact needs replacing, simply remove the “C” clips on either end, drive out the bearing and reinstall with an appropriate size replacement. Any decent auto parts / industrial supply should be able to supply the correct bearing. 4. Remove the brush plate from the end of the center section by removing the screw at the one brush connection. Before removing the brushes, note that one of them has an insulating sleeve over the braided wire. The replacement must go in the same brush holder. Remove the brushes and replace if necessary and clean the brush plate. ** Brake Cleaner is a good general cleaner for this entire job. 5. Remove the thrust washers from brush plate end of the armature. Count them and ensure they go back on the correct way. 6. The end of the center section that had the drive end on it has a circular plate covering it with a short splined shaft protruding through the plate. Drive the plate out by tapping the opposite end of the section on the shaft – just lightly with a rubber hammer or piece of wood to protect the shaft. Once the plate is out, remove the armature from the section. You will find more thrust washers at this end. Make sure they go back on correctly. 7. In the center of the center section there are four large Philips screws. These hold in the field coils found within the housing. Using an “impact driver”, loosen the four screws that go around the circumference of the center section and remove them. Remove the 10mm nut for the battery connection and the accompanying fiber insulating washers. With the screws and nut removed, the entire field coil assembly should withdraw entirely from the housing. There will be four (4) metal plates that the screws mounted into come falling out. They are easily replaced into the field coils when you slide it back into the housing. Do not be alarmed that you suddenly have four loose metal parts. 8. With everything out of the housing, thoroughly clean everything using the Brake Cleaner. Although the cleaner will dry without leaving a film, it is suggested that the components be dried with compressed air. 9. Get some extremely fine steel wool (“000″ of even “0000″ is better) and gently clean the metal surfaces or bars of the armature and the commutator. Blow with compressed air. 10. Using a volt/ohmeter, test for continuity between pairs of armature bars (the long ones). There should be continuity between the pairs around the entire circumference.

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Yamaha V-Star 1100 Custom and Classic cruisers Floorboard/ Footpeg Extension Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 09-11-2010

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Start on the right (brake) side. 1) Loosen the nut at the end of the brake rod. This will allow you to unscrew the brake rod from the brake lever clevis later. 2) Pull out the cotter pin and remove the pivot pin. Unscrew the clevis 3) Then using a 14mm socket or box-end wrench, remove the two bolts that hold the brake floorboard/footpeg assembly (whichever your bike has) to the frame. These bolts are torqued to 46 ft lbs, so this may be a bit difficult. 1. Loosen this nut 2. Remove the cotter pin (other side of this pivot pin) remove the pivot pin a unscrew the nut to remove the clevis nd 3. Remove these bolts When you remove the floorboard/footpeg bracket, be careful not to pull the brake switch wires loose. You may wish to cut the cable tie for more room, and then rest the bracket, with the footpeg or floorboard attached, on a short box, or block of wood, to keep it handy. Install the new brake rod, to the end of the existing brake rod. Re-install the pivot pin, and the pivot pin cotter pin. Installing the extension bar: Note that the extension bar is bolted so that it rises up in front. Use the new bolts to mount the floorboard/ footpeg bracket to the threaded holes in front. Install the Extension in the proper orientation (angled holes bolt up to the frame, with front of the bar higher than the rear – see photo) using the stock bolts for the extensions to the frame and the new bolts and washers supplied with the kit, on the forward threaded section to relocate the floorboard or footpeg bracket. The use of LocTite ® Blue here is recommended. At this point the right side Floorboard or Footpeg should be secured tightly and the brake lever hanging loose. Now install the Brake rod extension, threading the male end to the original brake rod. Don’t tighten this end yet Place the clevis over the forward most end of the brake rod extension, and threat the clevis nut onto the end of the rod. Bring the brake rod upright, to meet with the clevis at the end of the brake rod extension and replace the pivot pin. Before reinstalling the cotter pin, check the angle of the brake lever, to insure that you have the brake pedal where you want. If necessary, adjust the extension rod in or out, until you are satisfied, and then reinstall the cotter pin into the pivot pin. Check the Brake switch wire and install a new cable tie if required. Note: Due to utilizing a thicker material, 1/2″ versus 3/8″ from our competitor, the Brake rod is now positioned at a greater angle. Even with the angle, braking performance is not affected, but if you wish to bring the master cylinder in line with the brake rod, do this. Loosen the rear, and remove the front Allen bolt. Then place two washers behind the front bolt, under the bracket, and then re-install the bolts To change the angle of the brake rod, 1) loosen and remove the two master cylinder bracket Allen bolts 2) insert two washers behind the front bolt (front of the bike), behind the master cylinder bracket 3) tighten both bolts. Do not install any washers on the rear mounting hole. This will make the angle of the Brake Rod less aggressive. Step Two – Left Side For the left (Shifter) side, 1) use an open-end 10 mm wrench, to unscrew the two nuts that hold the shift rod in place. PLEASE note that one end of the shift rod has a left hand threaded nut. SAVE the nuts, as you will need them on the new longer Polished Stainless Steel Shift Rod. 2) Remove the stock shift rod. 3) Then using a 14mm socket or box-end wrench, remove the two bolts that hold the shifter floorboard/footpeg assembly (whichever your bike has) to the frame.

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FLUID SPECS MODEL- YEAR 1994- 2005 FOR TOYOTA CAMRY, COROLLA AND TACOMA

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 17-09-2011

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Toyota Genuine Motor Oil 5W-30 Toyota Genuine Motor Oil 10W-30 Ethylene-Glycol Antifreeze Toyota Long Life Coolant Toyota Super Long Life Coolant 00272-SLLC2 Hypoid API GL-5 75W-90 Gear Lube T-IV Transmission Fluid ATF WS Transmission Fluid 08885-80306 Good brand of 80W-90 gear lube Hypoid API GL-5 80W-90 Gear Lube Castle V160 Gear Lube Sequential Manual Transmission Fluid 08885-01306 08886-02206 Synthetic Hypoid API GL-5 75W-140 Gear Lube Limited Slip Gear Oil

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