fuse for starter clock on bmw 2002 r1150r

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YAMAHA FJR1300N PERIODIC MAINTENANCE AND MINOR REPAIR

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 17-12-2010

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Always keep the battery charged. Storing a discharged battery can cause permanent battery damage. ● To charge a sealed-type (MF) battery, a special (constant- voltage) battery charger is required. Using a conventional battery charger will damage the battery. If you do not have access to a sealed-type (MF) battery charger, have a Yamaha dealer charge your battery. EAU04076* Replacing the fuses The fuse box, which contains the fuses for the individual circuits, is located under panel D. The fuel injection system fuse box is located under panel D. The main fuse box is also located under panel D, beside the battery. (See page 6-7 for panel removal and installation procedures.) If a fuse is blown, replace it as follows. 1. Turn the key to “OFF” and turn off the electrical circuit in question. 2. Remove the blown fuse, and then install a new fuse of the specified amperage. 1. Fuel injection system fuse 2. Spare fuel injection system fuse 1. Headlight fuse 2. Signaling system fuse 3. Ignition fuse 4. Windshield motor fuse 5. Radiator fan fuse 6. Backup fuse (odometer and clock) 7. Spare fuse (〈 4)
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE AND MINOR REPAIR 6-31 6 EC000103 CAUTION: Do not use a fuse of a higher amperage rating than recommended to avoid causing extensive damage to the electrical system and possibly a fire. 3. Turn the key to “ON” and turn on the electrical circuit in question to check if the device operates. 4. If the fuse immediately blows again, have a Yamaha dealer check the electrical system. EAU04099 Replacing a headlight bulb This motorcycle is equipped with quartz bulb headlights. If a headlight bulb burns out, replace it as follows. 1. Remove panel B (if replacing the left headlight bulb) or panel C (if replacing the right headlight bulb). (See page 6-7 for panel removal and installation procedures.) 2. Disconnect the headlight coupler, and then remove the headlight bulb cove

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1994 – 2004 BMW Motorcycle History

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 17-11-2010

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1994 brought many changes to BMW, most obviously by the introduction of the “R259″ series twins and the elimination of the old standby “Airhead” twins that had been BMW’s trademark for seven decades. While it is interesting to look at all the technologies introduced during the 1994 to 2004 time block, it is also exciting to look into what was going on as far as changes in BMW more esoteric than measurable. In this author’s opinion there were unspoken changes in BMW’s mindset and philosophy. BMW had forged it’s reputation for long lasting, simple machines built to the highest standards and quality; aimed at a dwindling, older (OK, Jeff, more mature) market of enthusiastic but eccentric riders. They built motorcycles that were easy for the owners to maintain and modify to fit their specific wants. BMW had always built their bikes their way; often it seemed like they did so in spite of what the younger and upwardly mobile riders were looking for. By 1994, the airhead was simply not a sellable motorcycle; the buying market was younger and wanted performance in line with what the Japanese products offered at much lower prices. The K 75/100 series that were so far ahead of their time in 1984 when they were introduced were also showing their age. No doubt, BMW knew this was coming many years before the new “Oil Head” was introduced. They knew that the riding community had reduced its mean age substantially. The younger riders had money to spend on a bike that had to be BMW, yet had to be totally more modern both in performance and in perception than what BMW had been selling. Thus, the R259 was born. The Birth of the R259 Twins The new BMW corporate mindset, if you will, was no longer concerned with selling motorcycles that would be handed down from one generation to the next, nor was BMW concerned about ease of maintenance with standard hand tools. Although the new bikes were still able to outlast the riders, the concern for building units to last a quarter-million miles was not so much in the forefront of the design. The new models would have to be powerful, fast, handle better than anything on the road; they would need to offer a standard of technology that the Japanese would never build. They should be complex pieces of rolling art. Most obvious, though, was that they would build a product aimed at an entirely new market of riders who would likely not be interested in maintaining the bikes themselves or really understanding the nuances of design. The new customers BMW was looking for were serious riders who were more interested in the fun and excitement of riding than they were in savoring the history of the older designs

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HARLEY DAVIDSON BILLET CLOCK, FRONT BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER MOUNT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 21-02-2011

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INSTALLATION 1. See Figure 1. Clean the face of the front master cylinder reservoir with denatured alcohol and a paper towel. 2. Remove the paper backing from the adhesive strip, and line the clock up squarely to the master cylinder reservoir as shown. Press firmly into place and hold for a few seconds. 3. Let the adhesive set for a while before setting the time. SETTING THE TIME ON THE CLOCK 1. Using the hex key included in the kit, remove the two screws securing the faceplate to the clock housing 2. Lift off the faceplate and “O”-ring, and set aside. Lift the clock face and movement assembly out of the housing. 3. Pull out the stem carefully, and turn it until the hands indicate the correct time. Carefully push the stem back in to start the clock. 4. Check that the “O”-ring is in place in the faceplate, and re-install the faceplate to the clock housing. Do not over- tighten. REPLACING THE CLOCK BATTERY The clock battery (Type SR626SW) is a common type, available wherever watch batteries are sold. When storing the motorcycle for a long period, pull out the stem carefully to stop the clock and save battery life

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Integral ABS and ASC – new Riding Dynamic Control Systems for BMW Motorcycles

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 16-11-2010

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Entering its next generation, BMW Motorrad Integral ABS is taking a quantum leap in the process of evolution, advancing from a stand-alone solution acting only on the brakes into a fully networked all-round system. Offering the new generation of Integral ABS, BMW Motorrad provides the foundation for additional dynamic riding control systems with a reduction in technical requirements and features. And following the customer’s wishes, this new generation also opens up the option in future for further-reaching rider assistance functions. The first step in this direction is BMW Motorrad ASC Automatic Stability Control available as of 2007. This system serving to control drive spin on a production motorcycles is being introduced as an optional extra on the touring models in the BMW K and Boxer Series. Once again, therefore, BMW is acting as the pioneer in the introduction of advanced safety technologies on the motorcycle. This further enhances the leadership which BMW Motorrad has shown in the area of active safety for more than 15 years. Choosing the right development partner for both systems, BMW Motorrad obviously had to focus on that partner’s specific competence in control technology and the networking of functions within the vehicle. In recent years, major car suppliers have become aware of the technical challenges presented by the motorcycle with its specific riding dynamics and the growing potential for motorcycle control systems in the market. The decisive point in preselection of the development partner was the willingness and ability to develop specialised solutions suitable for use on BMW motorcycles. So taking this into account, joint development of the new generation of ABS brake technology started together with Continental-Teves in early 2003. Integral ABS. BMW Motorrad’s new Integral ABS technology has been developed separately from the previous system and the entire layout of the system has been newly conceived from the ground up. Capitalising on progress in technology in both hydraulics and electronics, the development engineers have succeeded in simplifying the architecture of the system while at the same time enhancing its functions to an even higher standard. The result is supreme stopping power and very short stopping distances even without electrical power assistance on the brakes.

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BMW R1150R Roadster CargoRest FitKit Installation Manual

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 26-10-2010

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Check to determine if the BMW system case mounts have been properly installed and that all fasteners and fittings are properly tightened. Inspect for signs of stress, fracture, bending, or other failure. If found, return the mounts to your dealer for replacement. Do not attempt to mount the BestRest FitKit if the BMW system case saddlebag mounts are damaged, defective, or improperly installed. If the BMW luggage rack is in place, remove it from the system case mounts. Removal is accomplished by removing the 4 torx screws, 2 on each side. Use the torx wrench from your toolkit. Once the stock “luggage” rack is removed, you’ll be mounting the Roadster FitKit using those same 4 holes. You’ll be replacing the stock torx head screws with the longer socket head hex screws found in the parts package. Place a flat washer on the 6mm screws and start the screws into the 4 holes. The 4 screws may need some gentle help to get them thru the holes. Work patiently and do not use brute force! Once the screws have started in the holes, turn them clockwise with a hex wrench to help them pass thru the saddlebag mounts and the FitKit Plate. Place a flat washer and 6mm nylon locknut on the end of each screw and tighten the nuts <<<<>>>>. From the rear, lift up on the FitKit Plate and “wiggle” it up and down <<<>>> a few times to remove any tension between the FitKit Plate and the system case brackets. You’ll find a point where everything feels “neutral” and where the screws are aligned in their holes. Tighten the nuts fully. Use common sense and do not over-tighten. Do not use extensions on the hex wrench. As a final tightening technique, hold the hex wrench stationary while you tighten the nuts another ¼ turn, using the box wrench. From the rear, wiggle the FitKit Plate up and down again. If it’s loose, tighten the screws and nuts again. Repeat until the FitKit Plate is snug and secure between the bag mounts. Place a CargoRest over the top of the FitKit Plate. Installation is the same for all 3 models of CargoRest. Align the 5 holes shown in the photo with the holes in the FitKit Plate.

KTM Starter Gear Maintenance Instructions

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 26-11-2010

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Checking the electric starter motor for wear -Check Bendix 1 for smooth operation and signs of wear. -Check the sprocket of the electric starter for wear and radial clearance. -Replace O-ring 2 of the electric starter. -Replace gasket 3 . -Check starter idler gear 4 for smooth operation and wear, check that the bearing bushings are seated firmly. Electric starter motor – checking for and adjusting play -Mount the electric starter and the starter idler gear. -Mount the tighten cover 5 . -Move starter idler gear 4 back and forth in the direction of rotation, the maximum play may not exceed half the width of a tooth. -If play is larger, cover 5 must be removed and as many shims 6 with a thickness of 0.10 mm as necessary must be added to eliminate all play. Then remove one shim again. -Check the play again; the maximum play may not exceed more than half of the width of a tooth. 1 2 3 4 5 4 5 6

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HARLEY DAVIDSON THERMOMETER/ CLOCK, HAND LEVER BRACKET CLAMP MOUNT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 08-02-2011

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INSTALLATION NOTE The figures show the gauge mounted to the clutch (left-hand) lever clamp. The gauge can be mounted on either the clutch or brake lever side, using the upper or lower clamp mounting screw per customer preference. 5 3 1 2 4 is01874 1. Gauge 2. Bracket (bent backward) 3. Socket head set screw from this kit 4. Original equipment screw 5. Original equipment washer (front of bracket) Figure 1. Gauge Bracket Mounted to Upper Screw (Left-Hand Shown) 1. See Figure 1 and Figure 2. Using a T27 TORX drive head, remove the desired screw (upper or lower) with flat washer securing the handlebar clamp to the hand lever bracket. NOTE When mounting the gauge bracket to the lower clamp mounting screw, install the original flat washer behind the bracket. 2. Install the handlebar clamp screw with flat washer through the larger hole in the gauge bracket, and tighten to 60-80 in-lbs (6,8-9,0 Nm). 3. Rotate the gauge to the desired angle, then tighten the gauge attaching screw securely. SETTING THE TIME ON THE CLOCK NOTE The clock is shipped with the stem pulled out, which stops clock operation. If the stem has been pushed in, pull out the stem carefully, and turn it until the hands indicate the correct time. Carefully push the stem back in to start the clock. REPLACING THE CLOCK BATTERY The clock battery (Type SR626SW) is a common type, available wherever watch batteries are sold. It is recommended that the battery be replaced at a watch repair facility, as the screw back cover requires a special tool for removal and replacement. The clock is waterproof, and requires special attention when re-assembled.

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Suspension Basics for BMW Motorcycles

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 30-11-2010

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tires: Tires are the first part of any suspension system. The design of the tire and even the pressure you run can have a profound affect on the way your motorcycle handles. Stiff, low profile tires will give a sharper feel to the bike, as will higher tire pressures. Those of us who ride our GS’s off the road will decrease the tire pressure to about 50% of the street spec when we are in the dirt. The tire then becomes a very active part of the suspension, but will wallow like an old pig if not re-inflated when pressed back into pavement duty. It still surprises me when we have a customer complain that his BMW needs new shocks when they come in with nearly flat tires. It is possible that the best dollars-per- unit improvement you can make to your BMW may be in keeping the tires inflated. Chassis: There is not much that we can do about the chassis design, unless we are Troy the Welder, but it is a fact that different frames and swing arms flex differently and therefore are part of the suspension. On the Airheads, we often braced various parts of the frame and swing arms, resulting in improved handling that even mere mortals could appreciate. On the latest BMW’s it would take the likes of a Valentino Rossi to even notice if the parts were stiffened. Stiffer is not always better. One of the Japanese racing bike manufactures controls the stiffness of the frame in various areas to allow some flex for better handling. So, Mr. Rossi might not even like it if Troy stiffened his new BMW. Springs: Springs control the ride height of the motorcycle and the ability to allow for different loads. On most BMW’s there is a way to adjust the spring preload to some extent so that the ride can be optimized for a light rider or two-up operation with luggage. Dampers: Dampers control the speed and frequency at which the suspension operates by changing the kinetic (moving) energy to thermal (heat) energy. Without the damper, the suspension would oscillate as each movement occurred, resulting in decreased vehicle control. Dampers on BMW’s fall into two main groups. On airheads, older K bikes, F and G models, and the R1200 HP-2, the front dampers are integrated into the forks. On the rear of the above mentioned -3 – models, and on both ends of all the rest of the bikes, there is a more common shock absorber, around which the spring is located. The HP-2 uses an air spring and air dampened rear shock. Seat: OK, folks, this is here for my old buddy Jeff. We know that a seat isn’t part of suspension, but a bad one sure can make you miserable. We have sent dozens of seats to our friend Mike Harris for inexpensive mods that might improve your riding enjoyment more than any suspension changes you could make! Let us know if we can help you with this most important item

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BMW R 1200 C And R 850 C REPAIR MANUAL

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 22-11-2010

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BMW Inspection 1000 km/600 miles I -BMW Service II -BMW Inspection III -BMW Annual Service IV Reading out MoDiTeC fault memory (Inspections I, II, III and IV) • Remove the left air cleaner trim panel. • Connect MoDiTeC to diagnostic plug. • Read out the fault memory. • Perform any repair work indicated. Checking throttle cable play, adjusting if necessary (Inspections I and III) • Check throttle cable for free movement and freedom from abrasion or kinking; renew if neces- sary. • With the steering turned to various angles, open the throttle twistgrip fully and allow it to close again. • When released, the twistgrip must return to the closed position by itself. • Pull back the protective cap. • Preset throttle cable play with the engine cold to 1.5 mm (0.06 in). • Warm the engine up to its regular operating tem- perature. • Adjust throttle cable play to 0.5mm (0.02 in) Changing engine oil, renew oil filter element (Inspections I, II, III and IV) L Note: If the motorcycle is ridden only for short distances or outside temperatures are below 0°C (32°F): change the oil and renew the oil filter element every 3 months, but at least every 3 000 km (1 800 miles). • Change the oil while it is at regular operating temperature. • Remove screw plug. • Unscrew oil drain plug and drain off oil. • Fit new seal and screw in drain plug. • Use oil filter wrench, BMW No. 11 4 650 , to unscrew and remove the oil filter. • Coat sealing ring on new oil filter element with oil and screw in. • Add oil. • Insert and tighten the screw plug. • Check engine oil level with the motorcycle in a horizontal position; use the auxiliary stand, BMW No. 001550 . e Caution: Never add engine oil above the MAX mark. X Tightening torque: Oil filter………………………………………………… 11 Nm Oil drain plug………………………………………… 32 Nm Fill quantity for engine: With oil filter change.. 3.75 l (6.6 Imp. pints/3.96 US quarts) Without oil filter change.. 3.50 l (6.2 Imp. pints/3.69 US quarts) Oil volume between MIN and MAX marks……0.50 l (0.88 Imp. pint/0.52 US quart) Engine oil grade: Brand-name HD oil for four-stroke spark-ignition engine, API classifications SE, SF, SG; combination with CC or CD specification

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TRIUMPH AMERICA AND SPEEDMASTER PASSENGER FLOORBOARDS INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 25-12-2010

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1. Remove the 12mm nuts located behind the stock foot peg assemblies and remove the peg sets. 2. Starting on the left side locate the left floorboard assembly and left round chrome spacer block. These will be stamped with an” L” on the back side. Insert two of the 3/16″ x 1/2″ dowel pins supplied into the two holes where the foot peg was mounted at one o’clock and seven o’clock. Place the spacer blocks backside (stamped with the L) onto the pins 3. Place two more of the dowel pins in the holes on the outside of the block using the holes at twelve o’clock and six o’clock. Place the left floorboard assembly onto the spacer block and pins so that it is parallel to the ground or horizontal (this will be the holes closest to six and twelve o’clock on the backside of the floorboard assembly). Insert one of the 5/16″ x 2″ socket head bolts into the center-mounting hole. Place one of the 5/16″ washers, lock washers and nuts onto the bolt and make finger tight. Recheck to be sure the floorboard is parallel to the ground. 4. On the right side install two more of the dowel pins supplied into holes where the foot peg was mounted at eleven o’clock and five o’clock. Place the remaining spacers backside (stamped with an R) onto the pins 5. Place the remaining two dowel pins supplied into the holes of the spacer block at six o’clock and twelve o’clock. Place the right floorboard assembly onto the spacer block and pins so that it is parallel to the ground or horizontal (this will be the holes closest to six and twelve o’clock on the backside of the floorboard assembly). Insert one of the 5/16″ x 2″ socket head bolts into the center-mounting hole. Place one of the 5/16″ washers, lock washers and nuts onto the bolt and make finger tight. Recheck to be sure the floorboard is parallel to the ground. NOTE; if you are also installing the TA005-5 relocation arms, follow those instructions next. Finally be sure to tighten all bolts securely

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