fz1 front sprocket removal procedure

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HARLEY DAVIDSON CHROME BELT SPROCKET COVER KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 11-02-2011

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Installation 1. Remove rear wheel. Refer to the applicable Service Manual for the proper removal procedure. 2. Remove bolts and washers from sprocket. •If you intend to install Acorn Nut and Stud Kit (Part No. 91734-85), refer to that Instruction Sheet at this time (please note that this Acorn Nut and Stud Kit does not fit Sportster (XL) models). •If you do not intend to install Acorn Nut and Stud Kit (Part No. 91734-85), retain bolts and washers for reassembly. Proceed to Step 3. 3. Position sprocket cover so that its mounting holes align with the holes in the sprocket. NOTE There is only one position which allows each hole in the cover to align with a hole in the sprocket. If replacement bolts, washers, or nuts are required, use only genuine Harley-Davidson parts specified for your particular model. Aftermarket fasteners can adversely affect performance, which could result in death or serious injury. NOTE • See Harley-Davidson service manual for proper torque val- ues; •Aftermarket fasteners may not have the specific property requirements to perform properly. 4. Install bolts with washers through holes in sprocket cover and sprocket, and into threaded holes in wheel hub. Depending on the tensile strength grade of the bolts in your particular application, tighten bolts in a crosswise pattern to one of the torque values listed in the following table: 5. Refer to the applicable Service Manual for the proper procedure and perform the following: •Install axle. •Align belt. •Adjust belt tension. •Tighten rear axle nut to 60 – 65 ft-lbs torque. 6. Check sprocket for radial runout (eccentricity). If runout is visible, mark outer edge of sprocket at the location of runout. Loosen sprocket bolts and tap the marked location with a rubber mallet. Tighten sprocket bolts in a crosswise pattern to the applicable torque specified in Step 4.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON CHROME SPROCKET HARDWARE KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 14-02-2011

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INSTALLATION For 1991 through 1996 XL with Laced Wheels For 1993 through 1996 Softail with Laced Wheels For 1993 through 1997 Dyna with Laced Wheels 1. Remove the rear wheel. Refer to REAR WHEEL REMOVAL in the Service Manual. 2. Remove all stock sprocket mounting screws, washers and locknuts. 3. Place a new chrome washer onto the threads of each new chrome screw from the kit. Install the sprocket onto the wheel. 4. See Figure 1. Obtain new original equipment locknuts and install on the screws. See Figure 2. Tighten all screws in the sequence shown to 45-55 ft-lbs (61-75 Nm). 5. Install the rear wheel. See REAR WHEEL INSTALLATION in the service manual. Verify the correct axle alignment and check belt deflection per service manual instructions INSTALLATION For 1997 and Later XL with Laced Wheels For 1997 through 1999 Softail with Laced Wheels For 1998 through 1999 Dyna with Laced Wheels For ALL Models with Cast Wheels 1. Remove the rear wheel. Refer to REAR WHEEL REMOVAL in the Service Manual. 2. Remove all stock sprocket mounting screws and washers. 3. Place a new chrome washer onto the threads of each new chrome screw from the kit. Apply 2-3 drops of Loctite 262 (red) to the screw threads, and install the sprocket onto the wheel. Tighten all sprocket screws finger-tight. 4. See Figure 3. Tighten the bolts in the sequence shown to 23 ft-lbs (31.2 Nm). NOTE If 23 ft-lbs (31.2 Nm) is reached before screw is fully seated, remove screw and examine screw and wheel for thread damage. Replace screw or wheel if threads are damaged. 5. After all screws have been tightened to 23 ft-lbs (31.2 Nm), mark a straight line, with a grease pencil, on all sprocket screw heads continuing the line over onto the sprocket. 1 4 2 5 3 30 is04009 Figure 3. Tightening Sequence (Later Laced Wheels and All Cast Wheels) 6. Mark a second line at 30° clockwise from the lines on the sprocket at each screw. NOTE For best results, use Snap-on Torque Angle Gauge TA360 or equivalent. 7. Using the marks as a guide, and using the tightening sequence shown in Figure 3+, turn each screw an additional 1/12 turn or 30° clockwise. 8. Install the rear wheel. See REAR WHEEL INSTALLATION in the service manual. Verify the correct axle alignment and check belt deflection per service manual instructions

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HARLEY DAVIDSON HYBRID CAM PLATE AND HIGH FLOW OIL PUMP KIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 07-02-2011

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REMOVAL To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect battery cables (negative (-) cable first) before proceeding. (00307a) Disconnect negative (-) battery cable first. If positive (+) cable should contact ground with negative (-) cable connected, the resulting sparks can cause a battery explosion, which could result in death or serious injury. (00049a) 1. Refer to the service manual and follow the instructions to remove the seat and disconnect the battery cables, negative (-) cable first. Retain all seat mounting hardware. Gasoline can drain from the carburetor fuel line when disconnected from fuel valve fitting. Gasoline is extremely flammable and highly explosive, which could result in death or serious injury. Wipe up spilled fuel immediately and dispose of rags in a suitable manner. (00256a) NOTES Installing this kit requires removal and installation of the cam support plate. Refer to the service manual for instructions with the following exception pertaining to cam compartment compo- nents: The crank and primary cam sprocket flange bolts are specially hardened, and the flat washers are of a special diameter and have ground surfaces. Use ONLY the parts provided in the Drive Gear Retention Kit (H-D Part Number 25533-99A, sold separately) when installing this kit. -J04804 1 of 7
The cr ank sprocket flange bolts and pr imary cam sproc ket flange bolts ARE NOT interchangeable. 2. Refer to the service manual to remove and discard the crank sprocket flange bolts and primary cam sprocket flange bolts and washers. 3. For 1999 models only: Refer to the service manual to remove and discard the currently installed cam drive sprocket. 4. Refer to the service manual to remove and disassemble the cams from the support plate and oil pump. Discard the support plate and oil pump. 5. For 1999 – 2000 Dyna, 2000 Softail, 1999 – 2000 Touring, and 2001 EFI Touring models only: Inspect the cams, chain, sprockets and chain tensioners for wear, and replace as needed. Refer to the service manual for inspection and replacement procedures. For 2001 – 2005 Dyna, 2001 – 2006 Softail, 2002 – 2006 Touring, and 2001 carbureted Touring models only: Inspect the cams and secondary cam chain for wear, and replace as needed. Refer to the service manual for inspection and replacement procedures. The primary cam chain, primary sprockets and both tensioners will be replaced by new components from the kit. For ALL models and years: Discard the guide, as it will not be used. INSTALLATION 1. ALL models: See Figure 1. Obtain the new Rear Cam Roller Bearing Kit (H-D Part Number 8983) from inside the Cam Service Kit (H-D Part Number 17045-99C, purchased separately), and install as indicated in Step 2. NOTE See Figure 2. If not enough of the splined shaft is exposed to install the sprocket, omit the spacer (4) and proceed to Step 2e. When the bearing inner race is started onto the machined area, remove the flange bolt (5), flat washer (6) and sprocket, then assemble using the spacer (4). Repeat Step 2e to fully install bearing inner race. To center thrust washer, be sure o-ring is installed in relief groove. Damage to bearing cage and engine can occur if thrust washer is not centered. (00473b) 2. See Figure 1. Install the O-ring (5), thrust washer (4) and bearing inner race (3) onto the rear camshaft as follows: a. See Figure 2. To properly locate the thrust washer (2), install the O-ring (3) in the grinding relief groove on the splined end of the rear camshaft between the machined area and the secondary cam sprocket.

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Harley-Davidson BAKER COMPENSATING SPROCKET INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 19-04-2012

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1) Remove the primary chain case cover. Refer to your Factory Service Manual for this procedure. 2) Remove the compensating sprocket nut with a 1-1/2″ socket. A ½” impact gun is best for this task. *) Remove the 1-3/16″ clutch nut. This is a left handed nut so loosen it by turning it in the clockwise direction (as viewed from the left side of the motorcycle). 4) With one hand on the compensating sprocket and one on the clutch assembly, remove the primary drive assembly (compensating sprocket, primary chain, tensioner assembly, and clutch as shown in figure a and set it on a clean surface. 5) Flip the adjuster shoe bracket on the chain tensioner assembly. figure b shows the stock orientation of the adjuster show and bracket. Figure C shows the adjuster show bracket flipped 180°. To flip the shoe bracket, remove the two ¼-28×2 bolts that hold the bracket assembly together. This will allow you to separate the chain tensioner assembly components from the primary chain. Flip the bracket around as shown in figure c . PAGE 4 Figure B Figure A BAKER COMPENSATING SPROCKET INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS 6) install the new compensating sprocket, chain, and clutch onto the motor sprocket shaft and the transmission input shaft. The flipped chain tensioner assembly (as shown in figure c ) is not ‘captured’ on the primary chain like the stock configuration. Loosely install the chain tensioner assembly onto the anchor plate bolt. Tighten the compensating sprocket nut to 157+ 7 ft-lbs and the clutch hub nut to 75+ 5 ft-lbs using red Loctite on the threads.

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TOYOTA FJ CRUISER Procedure removal and installation

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 05-10-2011

Care must be taken when installing this accessory to ensure damage does not occur to the vehicle. The installation of this accessory should follow approved guidelines to ensure a quality installation These guidelines can be found in the “Accessory Installation Practices” document. This document covers such items as: • Vehicle Protection (use of covers and blankets, cleaning chemicals, etc.). • Safety (eye protection, rechecking torque procedure, etc.). • Vehicle Disassembly/Reassembly (panel removal, part storage, etc.). • Electrical Component Disassembly/Reassembly (battery disconnection, connector removal, etc.). Please see your Toyota dealer for a copy of this document

HARLEY DAVIDSON DYNA SPROCKET KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 25-02-2011

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1991-1992 Dyna models: Screw (5) 3739A 1993-1995 FXDL, 1995 FXD and FXDS, all 1997-1999 Dyna models: Screw (5) 3730A 1993-1995 FXDWG and all 1996 Dyna models: Screw (5) 3769 1991-2005 Dyna models: Washer (5) 6516HW 2000-2006 Dyna models: Screw, with lock patch (5) 3737A 2006 Dyna models: Screw, with lock patch (5) 3873 2007 and later Dyna models: Screw, with lock patch (5) 3109 The rider’s safety depends upon the correct installation of this kit. Use the appropriate service manual procedures. If the procedure is not within your capabilities or you do not have the correct tools, have a Harley-Davidson dealer perform the installation. Improper installation of this kit could result in death or serious injury. (00333a) NOTE This instruction sheet references service manual information. A service manual for your model motorcycle is required for this installation and is available from a Harley-Davidson Dealer. Do not re-use sprocket mounting screws. Re-using sprocket mounting screws can result in torque loss and damage to the sprocket and/or belt assembly. (00480b) Kit Contents There are no Service Parts available with this kit. INSTALLATION NOTES The cotter pin or spring clip for the rear axle nut must be replaced during assembly and is available for purchase from a Harley-Davidson dealer. The five sprocket mounting screws must be replaced when replacing the sprocket. Remove existing sprocket according to service manual instructions. Remove all residual threadlocking agent from fastener holes using an appropriate thread chasing device and compressed air.

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1987 to Current Harley Davidson Softail (FLST Only) Motorcycle Trike Conversion removal and Installation Guide

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 03-11-2010

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Removal of Original Parts Secure and raise motorcycle 9 to 10 inches using a quality motorcycle lift. Remove the following from the vehicle. See OEM manual for detailed instructions. Items to be retained for reinstallation after modification are noted. • Seat (to be re-installed without modification). • Left and right saddle bags (if so equipped). • Left and right rear crash bars, saddlebag rails (if so equipped). • Left and right passenger foot rests (to be re-installed without modification) • Complete exhaust system (to be replaced with new system). • Rear wheel NOTE: Prior to removing rear wheel, depress foot brake and secure in down position (e.g., zip-tie to floor board). This will prevent fluid flow when rear brake caliper is removed • Remove Rear Caliper (disconnect brake line at caliper) NOTE: Cap line to prevent introduction of dust / debris into line. Remove caliper. • Rear Drive Pulley (1987-99 models to be re-installed without modification). • Rear Fender (2000 and newer models, fender mount plates to be reused). • Swing Arm NSTALLING TRIKE CONVERSION KIT 3.1 Sprockets and Drive Belts Specifications See following table for belt installation (1987-99 will use a 4 tooth longer belt) Note : See OEM manual for belt replacement procedure. Year Drive Sprocket OEM Belt New Belt / Sprocket 1987-92 70 T 132 T 136 1993-94 61 T 128 T 132 1995-99 65 T 130 T 136/70TOEM 2000-06 Champion Sprocket, 70 T 135 T Use OEM 2007 Up Champion Sprocket, 66 T Use OEM 3.2 Install Swing Arm É Noting size and location of bolts, remove Cross Assembly from Champion Swing Arm. Do not discard hardware. Figure 1 3.2.1 1987-99 Model Years • Remove bearings from OEM Swing Arm using OEM shop tools and hydraulic press. Note : Although original bearings can be re-used, it is HIGHLY recommended that NEW bearings be installed to Champion Swing Arm a. b. Press bearings into Champion Swing Arm in the same way as the OEM Swing Arm. Using OEM Spacer Tube and supplied washers (four ¾” flat washers), install Champion Swing Arm using OEM bolt, outside washers and nut. Do not torque pivot bolt nut at this time. Figure 2 Note : Insure belt path is over and under Swing Arm pivot. c. d. Replace cross assembly and hardware (previously removed in step 3.2) to Champion Swing Arm. Note that the 2 upper left hand side bolts are countersunk. Torque pivot bolt to OEM specification

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2001-2003 XV16 Fuel Pump and Carburetor Removal

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 31-12-2011

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Disconnect the carburetor fuel line hose at the fuel pump. •Disconnect the fuel pump wire coupler. •Remove the choke cable from fuel pump bracket. •Remove the upper engine mount, leaving the fuel pump attached to the mount. •Disconnect the TPS and carburetor wire couplers.       Disconnect the throttle cables, and then remove the carburetor. NOTE: The idle adjuster can be removed from its bracket without loosening the bracket screws. PAGE 3 of 12 HIDDEN 6mm SCREW 6mm BOLT UPPER ENGINE MOUNT/ FUEL PUMP CARBURETOR PAGE 4 of 12 Right-Hand Footrest Removal: •Disconnect and remove the brake light switch. •Remove the forward-most tie wrap around the brake hose and frame. •Remove the footrest assembly. NOTE: Leave the brake hose attached. Move the hose to the underside of the foot rest mount and support it as necessary so that it is out of the way Cylinder Head Oil Pipe Removal/ Installation: •Slightly loosen all three banjo bolts before removing them to prevent oil line deformation. NOTE: When loosening the upper banjo bolts, hold the line in place using a wrench at the flat surface on the fitting. Air Injection System (AIS) Removal: •Remove the electric starter motor. •Remove the regulator/rectifier assembly. Remove the AIS pipes from the cylinder head, but leave them attached to the AIS assembly. •Remove the three screws with 8mm heads, and then remove the AIS air filter from the right side. •Remove the three Phillips head screws holding    the AIS assembly on the frame. •Remove the AIS assembly from the left side. FOOTREST ASSEMBLY UPPER BANJO BOLT AIS AIR FILTER AIS ASSEMBLY
PAGE 5 of 12 Transfer Case Removal: •Remove the transfer case bracket first. Then remove the outer chrome cover, inner cover, and drive-sprocket nut. NOTE: There is a sealing washer between the inner case and the transfer case at the 8mm stud. Be sure to replace it during re-assembly. •Remove the two chrome oil lines between the engine and oil tank. NOTE: Retain the four O-rings for re-use. •Remove the drive pulley cover and remove the drive pulley nut. •Loosen the drive belt tension. •Remove the drive pulley, inner cover, collar, and O-ring. NOTE: The collar has a bevel on its inside diameter     for the O-ring facing inward and a bevel on the outside diameter facing the pulley. •Remove the drive and driven sprockets with chain as an assembly. •Remove the collar and O-ring. NOTE: Collar has a bevel on its inside diameter that faces inward for the O-ring. •Remove oil tank filler neck. •Remove the relay bracket on the right-hand side. NOTE: Leave the relays connected. Simply move them out of the way to allow room for transfer case removal. •Slide the transfer case out from the right side.

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AJS Fork Seal and Top Bush Removal Repair/ Service Procedure

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Filed Under (AJS) by admin on 31-10-2010

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For those of you, like me (writes old Tom, of the doughty Bristol Section), who have to dismantle the front forks, and have got to the stage when the seals and bush have to be removed… Here the workshop manual states that a swift jerk or upward movement of the stanchion should shock out the seal and bush. It is more likely that nothing happens! I have always managed to remove the seals and bush by the following method: Obtain one block of wood 3″ x 3″ or 4″ x 3″ and 5″ long. Drill a hole 1 1/8″ or 1 ¼” and then saw the wood in half along the centre line of the hole. Glue in two pieces of emery cloth to aid grip on your stanchion. Place into a vice with a dummy tube of the right diameter (same as your fork leg) and leave for the glue to set the emery cloth into place. Then obtain two pieces of hardwood or 1″ ply, 8″ x 6″ and drill 1 1/8″ or 1 ¼” hole in centre. Also obtain a piece of hardwood 1ft x 6″ x 1″ and cut to form two wedges as shown in the drawing. To use the withdrawal jig, place the two large blocks over the inner stanchion to butt against the lower stanchion. Now fit the two halves of the split block inner stanchion. Clamp the split blocks in a vice while a colleague tensions the rebound spring. The wedges are now placed between the larger blocks and the lower stanchions, which is heated to aid removal. Drive in the wedges to push the lower stanchion away from the fixed inner stanchion

YAMAHA V-Star 1100 Carburetor Bowl Screw Repair and Removal After Stripping and Pilot Cap Removal

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 19-01-2012

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When I first started working on bike many years ago, I learned the danger of stripping the heads of Philips screws when removing or installing them on motorcycles. I remember the two worst screws were the casing side-cover aluminum screws and carburetor bowl screws. I think I tried every method of screw removal after they were stripped. Vice grips, better tipped screwdriver, hammer, drill, and other tools were used. One way I learned to remove stripped screws is to re-make the Philips head into a flathead screw. Cutting a slot in the top of the screw and then use a flat-head screwdriver to remove the screw. On some parts this technique can work, other parts and screws it may not. The Philips screws on the bottom of the V-Star carburetor bowls are VERY prone to stripping. In fact, I will not start a carburetor cleaning without new hex head screws to replace the original Philips bowl screws. Replace the bowl screws for yourself if you keep the bike, or for the next rider that will appreciate the hex-head screws when they clean the carburetors. Not many other parts on a V-Star have screws that are prone to stripping. This documentation is to help riders with motorcycle maintenance. Some riders will find themselves with the problem of removing stripped screws. A carburetor cleaning can quickly double in time when you realize the hardest part of the job is removing bowl screws after they strip. And then realizing you do not have the replacement hex-head screws available and must now go to the hardware store.

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