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How to Replacing Rear Main Seal 1

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 24-11-2010

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The next day I woke up early and drank lots of coffee before going out to the garage. I knew I had two distinct problems confronting me. First, I would have to purchase an impact tool in order to loosen the six bolts holding the clutch together. Also, I would have to purchase at least three 8mm by 50mm bolts and nuts in order to prevent the clutch from exploding when the six bolts were unscrewed. For the third time in two days, I went to Sears and asked the salesman, (who I now I knew as Art,) where I could find an impact tool. He did not know what it was I was looking for, but he asked another employee and soon I had the tool as well as a 6mm Allen socket. Unfortunately, the Allen socket only came in 3/8″ drive, and the impact tool only came in 1/2″ drive. Thinking quickly, I purchased a 1/2″ to 3/8″ adapter, as well as a 3lb. dead- blow hammer. On the way home, I stopped at a Chief Auto Parts to buy the bolts I would need. The closest size they had were 8mm by 40mm, which was nearly 10mm too short. I was unsure whether the clutch cover bolts were coarse thread or fine thread, so I bought three of each, along with corresponding nuts. Finally, around 11 o’clock in the morning, I was back at the garage ready to work. I prepared the impact tool and placed the adapter and the Allen socket on it. I began to hammer on the end of the tool, trying to loosen each of the six bolts. None of them seemed to move, even though it seemed the impact tool was turning. Finally, I put the Allen socket on the breaker bar and found that all of the bolts had actually come loose. The tension from the clutch spring made it nearly impossible to see, however. I removed three of the bolts in a triangular pattern. Into these empty holes I threaded the fine- thread 40mm bolts with nuts attached and tightened them evenly. I was now able to remove the remaining Allen bolts. By slowly turning and loosening the nuts evenly on the 40mm bolts, I relieved the pressure from the clutch spring until the cover plate was free. I removed the cover plate, the clutch, the pressure plate, and finally the clutch spring. I had already marked each of the elements with Whiteout to insure that they would fit together the same way on installation. Apparently, this is essential as the flywheel could be rendered out-of-balance if the clutch components are not installed correctly. The flywheel itself was now exposed. I could see the five bolts that attached it to the crankshaft. I now used a tool I had fabricated. Although the manual describes two possible tools that can be fabricated, I found a piece of metal that resembled the tool and decided to use it. Unfortunately it was not strong enough and broke. I turned and looked at my workbench, and noticed a bracket which I had previously fabricated for mounting a mirror on my Vespa. The piece of steel was extremely strong and was already pre-drilled with correct-sized holes. It fit perfectly, so I placed it over the exposed bolt which protruded from the case, and placed the other end on one of the 40mm bolts, which I then bolted into the flywheel itself. I used the breaker bar again and removed the five bolts. The flywheel came loose after inserting two more 40mm bolts and tugging on them evenly

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1999-2001 DUCATI Monster INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Ducati) by admin on 25-10-2010

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It is essential to use Blue Loc-tite on all nuts and bolts. Remove any other steering stabilizers. 2) Cover the tank with an old sweatshirt or protective device so you don’t scratch it. 3) General concept for this mount: The new key cover is the anchor point for the stabilizer, so it must be fitted correctly as per the instructions below. The base of the new key cover must sit flush all the way around to provide the support needed. The bolt lengths are critical, so be sure you read the instructions carefully so you know which bolts go in which spots! 4) Remove the (4) 8x85mm Allen bolts that hold your handlebars tight. There are plastic plugs in the tops of these bolts that must be removed before you can access the Allen head. Replace the stock top barclamp with the one provided in the kit. 5) Tighten the 4 bolts evenly so the gaps between upper and lower perches, front to back, are even. 6) Remove the (2) 6x12mm Allen bolts and the plastic key cover that covers your key switch. 7) Fit the new billet aluminum key cover over the key switch and be sure the new cover is sitting down flush all the way around on the frame. It needs to be touching the frame to function properly. We’ve machined this part to fit precisely on the bike but each bike can vary slightly due to machining variations from the Ducati Factory. The new key cover should center itself by locating on the 2 spacer/nuts underneath. You might need to loosen the 2 bolts on the underside of the frame to allow those spacer/nuts to find their centering point on our key cover. 8) Note: Your stock key switch itself has a casting knub near its base that could restrict our new cover from sitting all the way down flush. We’ve machined a clearance notch inside our part for this knub to fit into, but it is possible it could vary from bike to bike, which might require a bit more clearance filing. Be sure the key cover is sitting down flush against the frame. 9) We’ve machined the key cover to fit over a 20mm spacer nut / .805″. If for some reason the stock “spacer/nuts” are too tall, you may have to file them slightly to allow the Billet key cover to sit down flush and touch the frame. 10) Once the key switch cover is flush against the frame, all the way around it’s base, retighten the bolts that hold the spacer/nuts secure from the under side of the frame using Loc-tite. Reinstall the (2) 6x12mm stock key cover bolts to a maximum of 6-ft/lbs . The stock key cover bolts are designed to engage 6mm of thread in the spacer nut. Do not be tempted to use any longer bolts than 6x12mm or they can prematurely bottom out which will keep the key cover from tightening. Shorter than 6×12 or if the cover is not flush, makes it possible to damage the threads. Double check these key-cover bolts after your first ride, as they may loosen after initial movement from the damper

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Yamaha V-Star 650 Outlaw Part Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 09-11-2010

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Remove both Allen bolts that hold the muffler together (Fig. 1) . Also Loosen clamp from the front muffler to front head pipe (Fig. 2) , and remove allen bolts from rear head pipe and remove in one peace carefully (Fig. 3) . Figure 1 Figure Figure 3 2. Once the two mufflers are removed with the rear head pipe, remove bracket by removing two 8mm bolts as shown and remove bracket. (Fig 4) Figure 4 3. Remove spring from brake light switch to the brake rod located on the right side footrest. (Fig 5) Figure 5 4. Remove two bolts holding the footrest, and brake pedal (Fig. 6) . Carefully rest right side footrest on the floor or you can use a two by four to rest the footrest onto. Figure 6 5. Remove front head pipe by removing two nuts on the head pipe flange as shown in figure (Fig 7). Now your stock exhaust should be fully remove as shown in (Fig.8) Figure 7 Figure 8 6. Remove right side exhaust stud with a stud remover or double nut two 8mm nuts and remove stud. (Fig. 9 & 10) Note: We supply two 8mm x 1.25 flange nuts in the hardware kit so you can remove the stud. Figure 9 Figure 10 Assembly 7. Tape off your frame and parts of the motor before installing the Roadhouse exhaust, this will prevent any scratches on your V-Star. (Fig. 11) Figure 11 8. Mount Roadhouse muffler bracket on bike with supplied two 8mm x 1.25 x 20mm flange bolts as shown in (Fig. 12). Figure 12 9. Slide front head flange onto Roadhouse front head pipe as shown in (Fig. 13) . Once head flange is mounted on head pipe mount head pipe into port as shown in (Fig. 14) and use from hardware kit (one) 8mm x 1.25 x 25mm flange bolts and one of the stock nuts to mount on the stud (Fig. 15) . Make collar is flush with the front port and tighten flange bolt and nut.

HONDA TRX 650 RINCON 4X4, TRX 680 Rincon BLADE HARDWARE MOUNTING REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUALS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 26-12-2011

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Push tube/ Swivel/ Blade Assembly Instructions 1. Install the blade swivel (15) onto the front of the push tube (14) using the 1/2″ shoulder bolt (4), two 1/2″ washers (5), and a 3/8″ Nylock nut (3) from the bolt bag per diagram #1. Make sure the flat washers seat properly on the bottom of the shoulder bolt while tightening the nut. Make sure the blade turns freely. 2. Remove the 2 bottom flanged nuts (I) from the u-bolt (D) and 2 from the 3/8″ bolts (H) on the blade position pin assembly (23). Run the 2 top flanged nuts up the threads of the u-bolt. Place the blade position pin assembly on the push tube as shown in the Diagram, sliding the blade position pin through one of the oval holes on the swivel and through the rear blade position pin support bracket on the push tube. 3. Re-install the u-bolt and 3/8″ bolts and flanged nuts per the Diagram. On the u-bolt, thread the bottom nuts up until they are flush with the bottom of the threads then run the top ones down, making sure the bottom nuts remain flush with the bottom of the u-bolt. Tighten all 4 bottom nuts. 4. Remove the two shoulder bolts (18) from the pivot point brackets on the back of the blade (1). Attach the blade to the swivel by sliding the ears on each side of the swivel into the pivot point brackets on the blade, reinstall the two shoulder bolts and Nylock nut (3) and tighten. 5. Hook the blade springs (6) to the two round holes on either side of the 5 oval holes on the swivel. Hook the eyebolts through the other end of the springs, push the eyebolts through the spring attaching points on the back of the blade and install 3/8″ Nylock nuts (3). Spring tension may be increased by tightening both Nylock nuts on the eyebolts evenly. 6. Install the blade stops (16) with the two 3/8″ x 1″ bolts (17) and 3/8″ nuts (3) per the Diagram. Rotating the stops allows you to change the blade pitch to suit changing conditions or materials

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1999-2007 Yamaha V Star 1100 3" Res-Tec Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 08-11-2010

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Stock Exhaust System Removal 1. Remove right side Foot peg assembly or Floorboard. (Whichever is applicable to your model.) 2. Remove O2 sensors from each muffler and cover with supplied cap plug. 3. Loosen clamps at mufflers. 4. Remove bolts that are holding mufflers at rear mounting bracket. 5. Remove mufflers. 6. Remove the two nuts that secure the rear exhaust header pipe to the rear cylinder head. 7. Remove rear pipe assembly. 8. Remove the two nuts that secure the front exhaust header pipe to the front cylinder head. 9. Remove front pipe assembly. Hard-Krome Exhaust System Installation NOTE: Take care when fitting this Hard-Krome aftermarket exhaust system on your motorcycle. It has been designed to replace a STOCK exhaust system on a motorcycle with its engine, frame and other components in their STOCK design, configuration and location. WARNING : Re-check and re-tighten ALL fasteners and supports after 50 miles, then re-check and tighten as necessary on a periodic basis to ensure proper operation and performance. NOTE: All fasteners should be loose during initial installation to ensure proper fit and location of the new exhaust system. 1. Install new exhaust gaskets. 2. Install mounting bracket using Bolts with flat & lock washers. (See Illustration) 3. Install Front exhaust header pipe, taking care to not scratch chrome surfaces on pipe, engine or motorcycle — use masking tape as needed. 4. Install the two nuts to secure the flange that holds the exhaust header pipe to the front cylinder head — DO NOT TIGHTEN NUTS! 5. Install 3/8-16 Square nut into each slotted bracket of front pipe and start the 3/8-16×3/4″ Bolt with flat & lock washer through backside of mounting bracket. — DO NOT TIGHTEN BOLTS! 6. Carefully install rear pipe. 7. Install the two nuts to secure the flange that holds the exhaust header pipe to the front cylinder head — DO NOT TIGHTEN NUTS! 8. Install 3/8-16 Square nut into each slotted bracket of rear pipe and start the 3/8-16×3/4″ Bolt with flat & lock washer through backside of mounting bracket. — DO NOT TIGHTEN BOLTS! 9. Tighten the two bolts that secure the rear exhaust header pipe flange. 10. Tighten the two bolts that secure the front exhaust header pipe flange. 11. Tighten front pipe bolts at mounting bracket. 12. Tighten rear pipe bolts at mounting bracket. 13. Reinstall foot peg assembly or floorboard. 14. If applicable to your model install foot peg relocating brackets and foot pegs as shown in illustration. 15. Before starting bike wipe off any fingerprints and grease off pipes. Start bike and check for any exhaust leaks

Harley davidson American Classic Straights on a 1988-2001 VLX 600 Shadow Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 01-03-2012

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Remove right side Foot peg assembly or Floorboard. (Whichever is applicable to your model.) 2. Remove bolts that are holding pipes at rear mounting bracket. 3. Loosen clamps at mufflers. 4. Remove mufflers. 5. Remove the two nuts that secure the rear exhaust header pipe to the rear cylinder head. 6. Remove rear exhaust pipe assembly. 7. Remove the two nuts that secure the front exhaust header pipe to the front cylinder head. 8. Remove front exhaust pipe assembly. 9. Remove exhaust-mounting bracket from frame. Hard-Krome Exhaust System Installation NOTE: Take care when fitting this Hard-Krome aftermarket exhaust system on your motorcycle. It has been designed to replace a STOCK exhaust system on a motorcycle with its engine, frame and other components in their STOCK design, configuration and location. WARNING : Re-check and re-tighten ALL fasteners and supports after 50 miles, then re-check and tighten as necessary on a periodic basis to ensure proper operation and performance. NOTE: All fasteners should be loose during initial installation to ensure proper fit and location of the new exhaust system.
1. Install new exhaust gaskets. 2. Install mounting bracket using Bolts with flat & lock washers. (See Illustration) 3. Install Front exhaust header pipe, taking care to not scratch chrome surfaces on pipe, engine or motorcycle — use masking tape as needed. 4. Install the two nuts to secure the flange that holds the exhaust header pipe to the front cylinder head — DO NOT TIGHTEN NUTS! 5. Install nut strip into slotted bracket of front pipe and start the 3/8-16×3/4″ Bolt with flat & lock washer through backside of mounting bracket. — DO NOT TIGHTEN BOLTS! 6. Carefully install rear pipe. 7. Install the two nuts to secure the flange that holds the exhaust header pipe to the rear cylinder head — DO NOT TIGHTEN NUTS! 8. Install nut strip into slotted bracket of rear pipe and start the 3/8-16×3/4″ Bolt with flat & lock washer through backside of mounting bracket. — DO NOT TIGHTEN BOLTS! 9. Tighten the two bolts that secure the rear exhaust header pipe flange. 10. Tighten the two bolts that secure the front exhaust header pipe flange. 11. Tighten front pipe bolts at mounting bracket. 12. Tighten rear pipe bolts at mounting bracket. 13. Reinstall foot peg assembly or floorboard. 14. If applicable to your model install foot peg relocating brackets and foot pegs as shown in illustration. 15. Before starting bike wipe off any fingerprints and grease off pipes. Start bike and check for any exhaust leaks.

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2007 Yamaha V-Star 1300 Classic Straights Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 08-11-2010

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Stock Exhaust System Removal 1. Remove right side Foot peg assembly or Floorboard. (Whichever is applicable to your model.) 2. Remove bolts that are holding pipes at rear mounting bracket. 3. Loosen clamps at mufflers. 4. Remove mufflers. 5. Remove the two nuts that secure the rear exhaust header pipe to the rear cylinder head. 6. Remove rear exhaust pipe assembly. 7. Remove the two nuts that secure the front exhaust header pipe to the front cylinder head. 8. Remove front exhaust pipe assembly. 9. Remove exhaust-mounting bracket from frame. Hard-Krome Exhaust System Installation NOTE: Take care when fitting this Hard-Krome aftermarket exhaust system on your motorcycle. It has been designed to replace a STOCK exhaust system on a motorcycle with its engine, frame and other components in their STOCK design, configuration and location. WARNING : Re-check and re-tighten ALL fasteners and supports after 50 miles, then re-check and tighten as necessary on a periodic basis to ensure proper operation and performance. NOTE: All fasteners should be loose during initial installation to ensure proper fit and location of the new exhaust system. 1. Install new exhaust gaskets. 2. Install mounting bracket using Bolts with flat & lock washers. 3. Install Front exhaust header pipe, taking care to not scratch chrome surfaces on pipe, engine or motorcycle — use masking tape as needed. 4. Install the two nuts to secure the flange that holds the exhaust header pipe to the front cylinder head — DO NOT TIGHTEN NUTS! 5. Install Nut strip into each slotted bracket of front pipe and start the 3/8-16×3/4″ Bolt with flat & lock washer through backside of mounting bracket. — DO NOT TIGHTEN BOLTS! 6. Carefully install rear pipe. 7. Install the two nuts to secure the flange that holds the exhaust header pipe to the front cylinder head — DO NOT TIGHTEN NUTS! 8. Install Nut strip into each slotted bracket of rear pipe and start the 3/8-16×3/4″ Bolt with flat & lock washer through backside of mounting bracket. — DO NOT TIGHTEN BOLTS! 9. Tighten the two bolts that secure the rear exhaust header pipe flange. 10. Tighten the two bolts that secure the front exhaust header pipe flange. 11. Tighten front pipe bolts at mounting bracket. 12. Tighten rear pipe bolts at mounting bracket. 13. Reinstall foot peg assembly or floorboard. 14. If applicable to your model install foot peg relocating brackets and foot pegs as shown in illustration. 15. Before starting bike wipe off any fingerprints and grease off pipes. Start bike and check for any exhaust leaks. NOTE: To achieve optimum performance from your Hard-Krome exhaust system we suggest installing the Dynojet jet kit for carbureted models

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Yamaha Stratoliner 2006 3" Big Straights REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 02-01-2012

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1. Remove right side Foot peg assembly or Floorboard. (Whichever is applicable to your model.) 2. Remove bolts that are holding muffler at rear mounting bracket. 3. Remove Cables from exhaust valve. 4. Remove O2 Sensor from pipe. 5. Remove the two nuts that secure the rear exhaust header pipe to the rear cylinder head. 6. Remove the two nuts that secure the front exhaust header pipe to the front cylinder head. 7. Remove complete pipe assembly. Hard-Krome Exhaust System Installation NOTE: Take care when fitting this Hard-Krome aftermarket exhaust system on your motorcycle. It has been designed to replace a STOCK exhaust system on a motorcycle with its engine, frame and other components in their STOCK design, configuration and location. WARNING : Re-check and re-tighten ALL fasteners and supports after 50 miles, then re-check and tighten as necessary on a periodic basis to ensure proper operation and performance. NOTE: All fasteners should be loose during initial installation to ensure proper fit and location of the new exhaust system. 1. Install new exhaust gaskets. 2. Install mounting bracket using Bolts with flat & lock washers. (See Illustration) 3. Install O2 Sensor onto front pipe and install front pipe onto front cylinder, taking care to not scratch chrome surfaces on pipe, engine or motorcycle. 4. Install the two nuts to secure the flange that holds the exhaust header pipe to the front cylinder head — DO NOT TIGHTEN NUTS! 5. Install 3/8-16 Square nut into each slotted bracket of front pipe and start the 3/8-16×3/4″ Bolt with flat & lock washer through backside of mounting bracket. — DO NOT TIGHTEN BOLTS! 6. Carefully install rear pipe onto rear cylinder. 7. Install the two nuts to secure the flange that holds the exhaust header pipe to the rear cylinder head — (Remove chrome plastic valve cover to access top nut) — DO NOT TIGHTEN NUTS! 8. Install 3/8-16 Square nut into each slotted bracket of rear pipe and start the 3/8-16×3/4″ Bolt with flat & lock washer through backside of mounting bracket. — DO NOT TIGHTEN BOLTS! 9. Tighten the two bolts that secure the rear exhaust header pipe flange. 10. Tighten the two bolts that secure the front exhaust header pipe flange. 11. Tighten front pipe bolts at mounting bracket. 12. Tighten rear pipe bolts at mounting bracket. 13. Reinstall foot peg assembly or floorboard. 14. If applicable to your model install foot peg relocating brackets and foot pegs as shown in illustration.

HARLEY DAVIDSON TRIBAR LED TAIL LIGHT KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 28-02-2011

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INSTALLATION To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, remove main fuse before proceeding. (00251b) 1. Remove main fuse. Refer to service manual for location. 2. Remove seat using service manual instructions. 3. Remove rear tail light using service manual instructions. 4. Remove rear turn signals using service manual instruc- tions. 5. See Figure 1. Clip the cable strap (1) to free the rear harness from the chassis seat pan. 6. Unplug the 8-place connector (2) from the rear harness connector. 1 2 is05510 1. Cable strap 2. Harness connector Figure 1. Rear wire harness 1 2 4 3 is05511 1. Screws 2. Fender cover 3. Frame rail 4. Mounting bracket Figure 2. Remove Fender NOTE The fender support covers do not have to be removed from the upper shock absorber bolts. 7. See Figure 2. Remove the two rear fender support cover screws (1) and remove covers (2) and fender mounting -J04721 bracket (4). Repeat for opposite side and carefully remo ve fender and place it on a non-scratch surface. 8. See Figure 3. Clip and remove two cable straps (1). Pull wire harness three inches towards the license plate bracket. 9. Remove flange nuts (2) from both sides of license/tail light bracket stud plates (3) and remove bracket. Save stud plates and flange nuts. 1 3 2 is05517 1. Cable straps 2. Flange nuts 3. Stud plates Figure 3. Rear Harness Cable Straps, Flange Nuts and Stud Plates 10. Install new license/tail light bracket using stud plates and flange nuts previously removed. Tighten nuts to 5-6 ft-lbs (6.8-8.1 Nm) . 11. See Figure 2. Install rear fender by installing two screws (1) on each side through the fender support covers (2), frame rails (3) and into the fender mounting brackets (4). Tighten to 12-18 ft-lbs (16.3-24.4 Nm) 12. See Figure 1. Connect rear harness connector to 8-place connector on main harness. 13. Use a large cable tie strap from kit to secure the rear harness to seat pan. 14. Install rear turn signal lights using service manual instructions. 15. Verify that there is no excess wire harness near the stud plate then secure the harness with a large cable strap where the straps were previously removed. 16. See Figure 4. Secure the turn signal harness (3) to the stud plate (1) using small cable strap (2) and route the turn signal wire through the tail light bracket clip (4) as shown.

1995 – 2004 Toyota Tacoma Body Lift Kit Installation and REMOVAL

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 24-09-2011

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RADIATOR FAN SHROUD: Only raise body high enough to remove and replace body mounts. Always watch the fan shroud for sufficient clearance when raising the body. 2. Remove the 12mm bolts and nuts from the upper steering coupler on the rack and pinion noting the position of the steering column. Note: do not let the steering column turn, keep the column and rack aligned to its original position, mark if necessary. See figure 2. 3. Loosen body mount bolts on the driver’s side of vehicle and remove bolts from opposite side for positions 1,2 and 3, see Figure 1. Place a 2×4 between the jack and body to pread out load. 4. Raise the body on the driver’s side just far enough to remove mounts. Temporarily prop up the cab between cab and the frame with a wooden 2×4 or spacer. (This is to avoid cab from falling while working on body mounts.) The bolts on the opposite side will help ensure that the body does not shift. Make sure cab doesn’t contact bed when lifting. 5. Remove factory mounts one at a time.
6. Install the new S10321 steel bracket, polyurethane body mounts, and steel sleeves in positions 1, 2 and 3. Refer to the diagrams for positions. NOTE: On 2001 and newer models you will need to invert the #2 position bushings so that the M02787 is on top. 7. Install the supplied aluminum steering coupler with the round bosses pointing down. Note: you may have to loosen the pinch bolt at the top of the steering coupler so that it will slide up enough to install the steering coupler. See figure 2. 8. Lower the driver’s side and START the new bolts into the new mounts. Reconnect the steering coupler with the supplied 5/16” bolts from the top and nuts. DO NOT TIGHTEN!
9. Now remove bolts from passenger side of vehicle and repeat steps 3 through 6. 10. Tighten the steering coupler bolts and nuts to 35ft lbs also tighten the upper steering bolt to 35ft lbs

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