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HARLEY DAVIDSON SCREAMIN' EAGLE STREET PERFORMANCE TOURING END CAP MUFFLER KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 14-04-2011

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PRODUCT INFORMATION Noise Emission Warranty Harley-Davidson warrants that these mufflers, at the time of sale, meet all applicable United States E.P.A. Federal noise and Emissions standards. This warranty extends to the first person who buys these mufflers for proposes other than resale, and to all subsequent buyers. Warranty claims should be directed to an authorized Harley-Davidson Dealer. Tampering Prohibition Federal law prohibits any modification to this exhaust system which causes the motorcycle to exceed the Federal noise standard. Use of the motorcycle with such a modified exhaust system is also prohibited. NOTE This product should be checked for repair or replacement if the motorcycle noise has increased significantly through use. Otherwise, the owner may become subject to penalties under state and local ordinances. INSTALLATION NOTE Install end caps on mufflers before installing mufflers on vehicle. Install Direct Bolt-On End Caps 1. See Figure 1. Install end cap (2) to muffler (3) with four socket head cap screws (1). Tighten to 82-86 in-lbs (9.3- 9.7 Nm) . 2. Repeat for opposite side muffler. 3 2 1 is05426 1. Socket head screw (4) 2. End cap 3. Muffler Figure 1. Install End Cap on Muffler Install Attachment Ring End Caps 1. See Figure 2. Slide the three U-nuts (2) onto the bosses of the end cap attachment ring cup on the muffler. 2. Install attachment ring (1) to muffler with four socket head cap screws (3). Locate the attachment ring with a U-nut in the 12 o’clock position. Tighten to 82-86 in-lbs (9.3-9.7 Nm) . 3. Slide end cap (5) onto muffler body being careful to align holes in end cap with U-nuts. 4. Install the three countersunk screws (4) and tighten screws securely. 5. Repeat for opposite side muffler

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Harley Davidson FL series Electra Glide, Ultra Classic, Road King, Road Glide Left and Right Mounting Plate Installation Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 25-02-2012

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Remove existing control arm end cap and grind the outside flush. See picture below for reference. The swing arm will drop if both sides are removed at the same time. To ease installation, complete one side before starting on the other. Note: there is a left and right. Left and right end caps shown. 2. Install mounting plate assembly 10002351 on top of the end cap using 7/16″ hex head bolt and lock washer in the bottom hole. Use the 7/16″ counter sink bolt in the top hole. Make sure the end cap is seated properly. The end cap notch should fit into the recess on the frame. The pivot arm assembly is shipped on mounting plate assembly; you may remove the pivot arm to make installation easier. 3. Snug up the bolts evenly, make sure the end caps are not crooked in relation to the frame. Tighten both bolts to 25 ft lbs. (Further tightening will be required after the toe in is set). 4. If you removed the left hand pivot arm assembly, remount it now, 10002575-A (pg 20) with seal, bearings (2), washer, nut, cotter pin and dust cover. 5. Repeat for right hand side. 5 Toe In Adjustment Adjustment made with the mounting plates, bolts, pivot arms, and hubs (without wheels and tires) in place

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HARLEY DAVIDSON BLACK ENGINE GUARD KIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 24-02-2011

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REMOVAL NOTE This Instruction Sheet covers several different Harley-Davidson models and years. Be sure to locate and follow the procedures that apply to the motorcycle receiving the new guard. For Models without Lower Fairings 1. Proceed to For All Models section. For Model FLHTCUI (Ultra Classic Electra Glide) with Factory-Installed Lower Fairings 1. Remove the lower fairings following the instructions in the appropriate Service Manual. 2. When the lower fairings have been removed, proceed to For All Models section. For Models FLHR/I (Road King), FLHT (Electra Glide Standard) or FLHTC/I (Electra Glide Classic) with Harley-Davidson Genuine Motor Accessory Lower Fairings 1. See Figure 1. Remove the two black screws (1) that attach the fairing cap (2) to the lower fairing (5). Remove the cap. Set the parts aside for re-installation. 2. Remove the screw (7), rubber washer (8) and locknut (10) and the clamp (9) that attaches the bottom of the lower fairing to the engine guard and set aside. 3. Remove the two locknuts (3), U-bolt (6) and U-bolt retainer (4). 4. Remove the lower fairing by sliding it out from behind the engine guard. 5. Repeat Steps 1 through 4 for the opposite side. 6. Proceed to For All Models section. For Model FLTR/I (Road Glide) with Harley-Davidson Genuine Motor Accessory Lower Fairings Disconnect negative (-) battery cable first. If positive (+) cable should contact ground with negative (-) cable connected, the resulting sparks can cause a battery explosion, which could result in death or serious injury. (00049a) 1. Disconnect the battery, negative (-) battery cable first, following the instructions in the appropriate Service Manual. 2. Remove the seat following the instructions in the appropriate Service Manual. 3. Remove the cable strap holding the clutch cable to the engine guard. 4. See Figure 2. Remove the TORX screw (8), rubber washer (9) and locknut (11) and the clamp (10) that attaches the bottom of the lower fairing (4) to the engine guard and set aside INSTALLATION 1. Hold the engine guard in position, and loosely fasten the top of the guard with the new hex socket screw and flat washer from the kit. 2. Install the bottom brackets to the motorcycle frame with the two new TORX screws and locknuts. 3. Tighten all three screws to 15-20 ft-lbs (20.3-27.1 Nm) . For Model FLHTCUI (Ultra Classic Electra Glide) with Factory-Installed Lower Fairings 1. Install the lower fairings following the instructions in the appropriate Service Manual. For Models FLHR/I (Road King), FLHT (Electra Glide Standard) or FLHTC/I (Electra Glide Classic) with Harley- Davidson Genuine Motor Accessory Lower Fairings 1. Carefully place one lower fairing in position from behind the engine guard. 2. See Figure 1. Install the lower fairing to the top of the new engine guard with the U-bolt (6) from the back, through the holes at the top of the fairing. Install the retainer (4) in position on the U-bolt and secure to the engine guard with the two locknuts (3). Do not tighten the locknuts at this time. 3. Attach the bottom of the fairing to the engine guard with the clamp (9) removed earlier. Install the clamp around the engine guard in the direction shown, with the tabs toward the rear of the vehicle and the flat side of the clamp against the lower fairing. Insert the screw (7) through the lower fairing, rubber washer (8) and clamp (9). Secure the assembly with the locknut (10). Tighten to 12 ft-lbs (16.3 Nm) .

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Harley Davidson 1990 and later HSR Choke Cable Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 28-02-2012

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The majority of HSR42/45 installations use the Harley cable. Installation is simple when the installation instructions are followed, step by step. Those steps are: • Remove the stock Harley choke cable assembly. • Remove the spring and plunger from the stock cable. • Remove the Mikuni “Starter Nut” from the HSR. • Remove the Mikuni spring and plunger from the HSR. • Install the Mikuni spring and plunger on the Harley choke cable. • Install the Harley choke cable with the fitted Mikuni spring and plunger into the HSR carburetor. • DO NOT use the Mikuni Starter Nut; discard it. • DO NOT use the Harley spring or plunger; discard them. Note: If you do not have installation instructions, you may download them from the www.mikuni.com website in the “manuals” section. If the Mikuni Starter Nut is fitted to the Harley cable, the choke plunger is held off its seat and the choke is open all the time. If the Harley spring and plunger are used, the plunger does not seal and the choke is open all the time. The result, in both cases, is very poor fuel mileage (30 mpg or less). Another possible cause of poor mileage, rough idle and fouled spark plugs is incorrect cable routing. The stock Harley choke cable is very stiff and may not be fully seated in the metal elbow at the carburetor end of its run. This condition is easily corrected. On occasion, one of these errors may have been made by someone else at another location. The unfortunate mechanic who inherits the task of correcting the rich condition, poor idle and poor fuel mileage may have no clue as to the mismatch of parts. For this reason, we include the photos and text to help you discover if your installation is correct.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON ELECTRA-GLO LIGHT POD KITS INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 08-02-2011

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INSTALLATION NOTES Clean the controller mounting area and the areas where the light pods will be mounted with soap and water before beginning the installation, and allow to dry thoroughly. Remove debris, dirt and grime from the vehicle areas to be highlighted. Ambient temperature should be at least 50 °F (10 °C) for proper adhesion of the light pods and controller box to vehicle surfaces. Light pods should not be located closer than 2.5 inches (63.5 mm) from exhaust pipes or mufflers, and must have 1.5 inches (38.1 mm) clearance from engine cylinders and heads. Do not install light pods with the light source facing directly away from the vehicle. Installation should be done in a way that allows the light to be seen indirectly by reflecting from chrome or painted surfaces of the vehicle. Prepare the Motorcycle To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect battery cables (negative (-) cable first) before proceeding. (00307a) Disconnect negative (-) battery cable first. If positive (+) cable should contact ground with negative (-) cable connected, the resulting sparks can cause a battery explosion, which could result in death or serious injury. (00049a) 1. Refer to the owner’s manual and follow the instructions given to disconnect the battery cables, negative (-) cable first. NOTE For 2004 and later XL (Sportster®) models, the negative battery cable is most easily disconnected at the engine crankcase . Locate and Install the Controller NOTE Do not mount the controller box in a location where vehicle suspension travel could result in contact with the ON/OFF switch or dimmer control. Damage to the controller box will occur. 2. See Figure 2. Locate the controller box (10) on a flat surface that will allow the red (+) and black (-) leads to reach the battery terminals and the rider to access the controls (with the vehicle parked) and, if necessary, the in-line fuse holder (A). a. Test-fit the controller box to the selected surface before installation. Do not remove the adhesive backing until ready to attach the controller box. b. Clean the controller box mounting area with one of the included alcohol swabs. Allow to dry thoroughly. c. Remove the liner from the adhesive backing of the controller box. Carefully position the controller box to the surface, and press firmly into place. Hold the controller box in position with steady pressure for about one minute. Connect the Battery Cables NOTE Verify that the ignition/light key switch is in the OFF position before attaching the battery cables. 3. Verify that the ignition/key switch is turned to the OFF position. Apply a light coat of Harley-Davidson electrical contact lubricant (part number 99861-02), petroleum jelly or corrosion retardant material to the battery terminals. Connect positive (+) battery cable first. If positive (+) cable should contact ground with negative (-) cable connected, the resulting sparks can cause a battery explosion, which could result in death or serious injury. (00068a) 4. Refer to the owner’s manual and follow the instructions given to install first the vehicle’s positive (+) battery cable then the red (+) light pod controller lead ring terminal to the positive (+) battery terminal. Tighten to owner’s manual specifications. Install first the vehicle’s negative (-) battery cable then the black (-) light pod controller lead ring terminal to the negative (-) battery terminal. Tighten to owner’s manual specifications. Arrange the Electra-Glo Light Pods NOTES Electra-Glo light pods (1) can be installed in a variety of locations. They are best installed on a flat surface to provide indirect lighting illuminating mechanical features, vehicle finish or for ground effects. Refer to the notes at the beginning of the Installation section. 5. Select the area or lines of the motorcycle to highlight, and suitable locations for each light pod. DO NOT permanently affix the light pods at this time. Lightly tape the pods in place temporarily until the desired visual effect is achieved Verify clearance from movement of rubber mounted engine or other moving parts, heat sources, or chafe points

HAR:EY DAVIDSON FLHR/C/S (Road King) FRONT END LOWERING KIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 01-03-2011

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Removal (Left and Right Forks) 1. Place suitable blocking under frame to raise front wheel several inches off the floor. For best results, use a hydraulic center stand on a level surface. 2. Refer to Touring Model Service Manual and remove front wheel, fender and brakes. 3. Refer to Touring Model Service Manual and remove headlamp nacelle. 4. Loosen fork cap bolt from fork tube plug at top of fork tube, but do not remove. 5. See Figure 1. Standing at front of vehicle, loosen pinch bolt (with lockwasher) on right side of lower fork bracket, but do not remove. 6. Spray glass cleaner on fork tube above the rubber fork stop. After lubricating surfaces, move fork stop up fork tube until it contacts bottom of upper fork bracket. 7. Holding fork slider to prevent fork from dropping, remove fork cap bolt from fork tube plug. Slide fork tube down and out of upper fork bracket, fork stop, lower fork bracket and slider cover. 1 WARNING 1 WARNING 1 WARNING 1 of 5 ® Kit Number 54614-05 Figure 1. Loosen Pinch Bolt on Lower Fork Bracket i04808 1 Fork cap bolt 2 Fork stop 3 Pinch bolt 8. Thread fork cap bolt back into fork tube plug to prevent loss of oil while handling. 9. Move forks to bench area. Place suitable drain pan on floor beneath vise. 10. Repeat Steps 2-6 to remove left fork. Left And Right Fork-Disassembly 1. Remove nuts, lockwashers, flat washers and axle holder from studs at end of fork slider. 2. See Figure 2. Obtain FORK TUBE HOLDER (Part Number HD-41177) and proceed as follows: a. Clamp end of tool in vise in a horizontal position with plastic knobs facing toward you. b. See Figure 3. With the fork cap bolt topside, clamp fork tube between rubber pads on inboard side of tool. Tighten knobs until fork tube is securely held. 3. Remove fork cap bolt from fork tube plug. Remove quad ring seal. Save bolt but discard quad ring seal. 4. Using wrench flat, slowly unthread fork tube plug from fork tube. Be aware that fork tube plug is under spring pressure, so have a firm grasp on plug as the last thread is turned. 5. Remove fork spring from fork tube. 6. Remove fork assembly from fork tube holder. 7. Turning fork upside down, drain fork oil into drain pan. For best results, slowly pump fork tube and slider at least 10 times. 8. Install fork spring back into fork tube. 9. Place a shop rag on the floor, and turning fork assembly upside down, press end of spring against rag. While compressing spring to prevent rotation of damper tube, remove 6mm screw from end of fork slider. Use air impact wrench for best results. 10. Remove and discard fork spring. 11. Remove and discard damper tube. 12. Remove wear ring and rebound spring. Discard rebound spring. Do not expand or stretch retaining clip to remove from fork tube or clip may become bent or distorted. 13. Using pick tool, remove retaining clip between fork slider and fork tube. 14. Remove fork tube from fork slider. NOTE To overcome any resistance, use the fork tube as a slide hammer, that is, first push fork tube into fork slider and then pull it outward with a moderate amount of force. Repeat this sequence until fork tube separates from fork slider. 15. Slide fork oil seal, slider spacer and slider bushing off end of fork tube. Discard fork oil seal and slider bushing. 16. Remove the lower stop. Right and Left Fork-Assembly Exercise caution to avoid scratching or nicking fork tube. Damaging tube can result in fork oil leaks after assembly. 1. See Service Parts Illustration. Obtain new Damper Tube (Item 7, Part Number 46532-04) from kit. Obtain new Rebound Spring (Item 8, Part Number 46273-02) from kit and install on opposite end. Install wear ring removed in step 12. 2. With the wear ring topside, slide new damper tube into fork tube, so that tube end drops through hole at bottom of fork tube. Install lower stop at end of damper tube. 3. Install fork slider in fork tube holder. Slide fork tube into fork slider. 4. If necessary, obtain new slider bushing (14) (Part Number 45940-84, not included). Coat slider bushing ID with clean fork oil. Slide slider bushing down fork tube. 5. Slide slider spacer down fork tube until it contacts slider bushing.

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Harley Davidson 6- SPEED CONVERSION KIT FOR BIG TWIN 5- SPEED TRANSMISSIONS INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 05-03-2012

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5/16 Bolt hole boss clearance This can easily be checked with the trap door gasket. Put the gasket on the dowel pins. AII material of the boss around the hole that “sticks outside” the gasket (60 degrees forward to 60 degree backwards) must be removed (see figure A). Primary fork clearance Place the gasket on the housing and remove material as indicated for clearing the shifter fork (see figure B). WWW . ZODIAC . NL PERFORMANCE PRODUCTS FOR HARLEY-DAVIDSON ® INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR 6 SPEED CONVERSION KIT AND 6 SPEED BUILDER KIT speed transmission. Also make sure you have a 1990 or later Factory Service Manual available. Tools The conversion kit should only be used in new or low milage transmissions. If gears or bearings of a used Gear set Removal Refer to the Factory Service Manual Section for Mainshaft and Countershaft removal. When you get to the point of actually sliding the gear set out make sure you properly mark the 5th gear set as described in the Factory Service Manual (for used transmissions only). Further follow the factory removal procedure. Clearance Checks The 6 Speed conversion and builder kit will fit in most OEM or aftermarket transmission housings without may be needed. The following clearances must be checked before assembling the 6 speed transmission. 28-05-2008 We recommend the kits are installed by a qualified mechanic with knowledge of the Harley-Davidson 5 needed are the same as used for a 5 Speed transmission. 5 speed transmission are worn, new ones must be installed, or better, the builder kit should be used. any modification of the housing. However due to casting differences, in some instances some modification
WWW . ZODIAC . NL PERFORMANCE PRODUCTS FOR HARLEY-DAVIDSON ® Pillow block clearance (right side) Make sure there is clearance between the pillow block and the housing. Any clearance is O.K. (see figure C). Fork shaft support clearance Again use the gasket as the template and remove the material as indicated (see figure D). Shift drum end play The end play of the shift drum must be checked prior to final installation. Install the shift drum. Measure the end play with feeler gauges at the right pillow block (see figure E). End play should be between .004″ and .010″, some 1/2″ X 7/8″ 0.008″ thick shims are included to adjust the end play

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Harley Davidson Electra Glides, Ultra Vent (model LV-2,3,4) Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 07-03-2012

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Remove the fairing lower from the engine guard using the procedure provided in your Harley-Davidson user/service manual. Do not remove the glove box from the fairing. Vent Placement, Hole Drilling and Cut-Out: Caution: Place cloth or cushion underneath fairing lower to protect it from getting scratched during the following procedures. LV-2,3,4 Installation Copyright 2003-2004 2 3. Working inside the fairing and using the bottom of the glove box as a guide, position a closed vent parallel to and no more than 1/16″ from the rear edge of the fairing. Position the assembly so that the vent side tabs are no more than 1/8″ below the bottom of the glove box. (You want the vent assembly as close as possible to the glove box but with enough room so that the side tabs do not touch the glove box when the vent is closed! ) Mark the back two holes with a pencil then remove the vent and replace it with the cutting template in the exact same location. See photo to the right to assist in judging the cutting template orientation. 4. Lift out the glove box, steady the template with one hand and using an 11/64″ drill bit carefully drill 1 hole near the back edge of the fairing through the bottom corner hole of the cutting template. Install one screw and nut and tighten slightly to stabilize the template’s location. On the other corner (same edge) , drill the second hole. (You cannot drill the remaining holes from inside the fairing because the front edge of the fairing lower is in the way. ) 5. Remove the screw and nut and re-position the cutting template on the outside of the fairing with the three hole side of the template towards the front of the fairing (away from the edge of the fairing) . Install two screws and nuts into the open holes. Drill the remaining two corner holes and install two screws and nuts. Change drill bit size to 1/8″ to drill the final center latch hole. Next skip down to one of the two following procedures to make the vent opening using either A) Dremel tool/RotoZip router or B) coping saw/frameless hacksaw

HARLEY DAVIDSON DYNA STREET PERFORMANCE SLIP-ON ACCESSORY MUFFLERS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 05-03-2011

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PRODUCT INFORMATION Tampering Prohibition Federal law prohibits any modification to this exhaust system which causes the motorcycle to exceed the Federal noise standard. Use of the motorcycle with such a modified exhaust system is also prohibited. Noise Emission Warranty Harley-Davidson warrants that these mufflers, at the time of sale, meets all applicable United States E.P.A. Federal noise and Emissions standards. This warranty extends to the first person who buys these mufflers for purposes other than resale, and to all subsequent buyers. Warranty claims should be directed to an authorized Harley-Davidson Dealer. NOTE This product should be checked for repair or replacement if the motorcycle noise has increased significantly through use. Otherwise, the owner may become subject to penalties under state and local ordinances. INSTALLATION To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect negative (-) battery cable before proceeding. (00048a) 1. Disconnect negative (-) battery cable. Perform this installation when the engine is cool. Working on or near the exhaust system when the engine is hot could result in severe burns. (00311a) 2. Loosen stock muffler clamps and remove nuts that attach mufflers to muffler support tube. Remove stock mufflers. Save all mounting hardware for reinstallation. 3. Install new kit mufflers using muffler clamps (purchased separately) and stock mounting hardware saved from Step 2. Do not tighten hardware at this time. NOTE Before tightening nuts that attach mufflers to muffler support tubes, make sure the front muffler is positioned as far forward in its brackets slot as possible. This will eliminate any possible contact between the mufflers. 4. Tighten muffler clamp bolts to 45-60 ft-lbs (61-81 Nm) . Tighten nuts that attach mufflers to muffler support tube snugly. 5. Connect the negative (-) battery cable

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Honda GL1000/1100 starter motor Removal/ Over haul Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 08-04-2011

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1. Remove the three long bolts that hold the sections together and separate them. Be careful as there are a series of flat thrust washers on each end of the armature (located in the middle section). 2. The end cap basically performs no function other than to cover the brush plate and commutator area as well as center the armature shaft in a pressed in bushing located in the end of the cap. 3. The drive end contains the reduction gearing and if need be, can be disassembled to replace the bearing. This is extremely unlikely. The shaft should turn freely and normally only requires a cleaning and grease application. If the bearing in fact needs replacing, simply remove the “C” clips on either end, drive out the bearing and reinstall with an appropriate size replacement. Any decent auto parts / industrial supply should be able to supply the correct bearing. 4. Remove the brush plate from the end of the center section by removing the screw at the one brush connection. Before removing the brushes, note that one of them has an insulating sleeve over the braided wire. The replacement must go in the same brush holder. Remove the brushes and replace if necessary and clean the brush plate. ** Brake Cleaner is a good general cleaner for this entire job. 5. Remove the thrust washers from brush plate end of the armature. Count them and ensure they go back on the correct way. 6. The end of the center section that had the drive end on it has a circular plate covering it with a short splined shaft protruding through the plate. Drive the plate out by tapping the opposite end of the section on the shaft – just lightly with a rubber hammer or piece of wood to protect the shaft. Once the plate is out, remove the armature from the section. You will find more thrust washers at this end. Make sure they go back on correctly. 7. In the center of the center section there are four large Philips screws. These hold in the field coils found within the housing. Using an “impact driver”, loosen the four screws that go around the circumference of the center section and remove them. Remove the 10mm nut for the battery connection and the accompanying fiber insulating washers. With the screws and nut removed, the entire field coil assembly should withdraw entirely from the housing. There will be four (4) metal plates that the screws mounted into come falling out. They are easily replaced into the field coils when you slide it back into the housing. Do not be alarmed that you suddenly have four loose metal parts. 8. With everything out of the housing, thoroughly clean everything using the Brake Cleaner. Although the cleaner will dry without leaving a film, it is suggested that the components be dried with compressed air. 9. Get some extremely fine steel wool (“000″ of even “0000″ is better) and gently clean the metal surfaces or bars of the armature and the commutator. Blow with compressed air. 10. Using a volt/ohmeter, test for continuity between pairs of armature bars (the long ones). There should be continuity between the pairs around the entire circumference.

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