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Harley-Davidson S&S Super E and G Series Shorty Carburetors Installation and Jetting Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 24-10-2010

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throttle linkage with no cable modification. S&S Super E and G carb kits for 1936 to 1989 Big Twins contain a throttle cable guide (11-2339) designed for butterfly type throttle cables, and kits for 1990 and later Big Twins contain a taller throttle cable guide (11-2338) designed for CV type throttle cables. See Picture 2. The two throttle cable guides are interchangeable on the carburetor body, and can be changed very easily to update older carburetors or to accommodate custom throttle cables which are not stock for a particular year chassis. 1981 to Present Sportster Models Stock Sportster models from 1981 to 1987 have two cable throttle system designed for butterfly type carburetors. Sportsters from 1988 to present have a two cable throttle system designed for use with the stock constant velocity (CV) type carburetor. Since the taller #11-2338 cable guide bracket can not be used on a Sportster chassis due to insufficient frame clearance, throttle cables on Sportsters originally equipped with a CV type carburetor must be changed to butterfly style cables. S&S can supply the correct style throttle cables. See S&S Throttle Cable Application Chart. Picture 2 S&S THROTTLE CABLE APPLICATION CHART Length Total Housing Length Vinyl Housing Part Number Open Side Part Number Close Side Fitment 36″ 32″ #19-0430 #19-0431 For Buell with 7/8″ handlebars 36″ 32″ #19-0432 #19-0433 To ’95 ’81-’85 FX and FL; All ’81-’85 XL (Also pre-’81 w/2-cable throttle housing replaced.) For Buell with 1″ diameter handlebar 36″ 32″ #19-0436 #19-0437 ’96-Up 883-1200 XL 39″ 35″ #19-0434 #19-0435 To ’95 Softail (FXSTC, FXST, FLSTC, FLSTF) ’86-’94 FXR, ’93-’95 Dyna 39″ 35″ #19-0438 #19-0439 ’96-Up Softail (FXSTS, FXSTC, FLSTC, FLSTF) ’96-Up Dyna 42″ 38″ #19-0446 #19-0447 To ’95 custom application 42″ 38″ #19-0440 #19-0441 ’96-Up custom application 48″ 44″ #19-0462 #19-0463 To ’95 All FLT Models 48″ 44″ #19-0464 #19-0465 ’96-Up All FLT Models ” 1996 to Present Buells 1996 and 1997 Buells require special S&S butterfly style throttle cables for Buells, which are compatible with the stock 1996-1997 throttle assembly. 1998 and later carburated Buells require installation of stock 1996 – 97 throttle grip and the special S&S Buell style throttle cables when installing Super E or G carburetors. S&S Throttle Kits S&S throttle kits fit 1″ handlebars and can be used on most chassis. (An adapter sleeve is available for use with earlier, 7 ⁄ 8 ” OEM handlebars originally equipped with internal throttle cable.) Barrel fittings on S&S cables readily “plug in” to S&S Super E, G, and stock H-D 1981-’90 butterfly type carb throttle linkage. Kits include one opening and one closing side cable, left and right grips, and handlebar clamps. Kits with 36″, 39″, 42″, or 48″ length cables are available. Length specified refers to overall cable length. Vinyl covered outer housing is 4″ shorter than overall length

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1982-2005 Harley Motorcycle Removal and Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 31-03-2012

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” bolt from the mounting stem on the Signal® mirror. While seated on the motorcycle, position the Signal® mirror on the handle bar. Secure the Signal® mirror to the handle bar using the 5/ 16 ” bolt. Make sure the bolt is tight! Guide the Signal® mirror wire harness into the cowling by going along side the existing factory wire harness. 4 Remove any slack in the wire harness. Secure the wire harness to the handle bar using a supplied tie wrap. 5 6 Adjust the position of the Signal® mirror and tighten the ball retention screws. Remove the motorcycle seat. Remove the aft mounting bolts on the fuel tank. 7 Guide the Signal® mirror wire harness along the inside of the fuel tank’s front mounting bolt and between the crossover tube. 8 9 Lift up the aft portion of the fuel tank and guide the Signal® mirror wire harness down the backbone of the motorcycle frame, alongside the existing factory wire harness. The motorcycle’s electrical wiring for turn indicators is located aft of the gas tank on the backbone of the frame. Guide the new wire harness from the Signal® mirror to the electrical wiring. Cut off any excess slack in the wire. Locate the SOLID BROWN wire from the wire connector. Turn the ignition key so that electrical power is on and activate the right side turn indicator. Probe the wire with the wire tester to verify that flashing turn indicator power is present. Label that wire as ‘right side turn’. Repeat all of the previous steps to replace the left side factory mirror with the new Signal® mirror. Locate the SOLID VIOLET wire from the wire connector. Activate the left side turn indicator and probe the wire with the wire tester to verify that flashing turn indicator power is present. Label that wire as ‘left side turn

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HARLEY DAVIDSON MULTI-FIT BRAIDED THROTTLE/ IDLE CABLE KITS REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 01-02-2011

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REMOVAL To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect negative (-) battery cable before proceeding. (00048a) 1. Disconnect battery cables, negative (-) cable first or remove the main fuse following the instructions in the service manual. NOTE When performing cable disassembly procedures, make careful notes as to the existing cable routing. Pay special attention to existing cable strap locations before removing so new straps can be placed into the same locations. Do not remove or install the master cylinder assembly without first positioning a 5/32-inch (4 mm) thick insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. Removing or installing the master cylinder assembly without the insert in place may result in damage to the rubber boot and plunger on the front stoplight switch. (00324a) 2. See Figure 1. Place the cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. 3. See Figure 2. Loosen cable adjuster jam nuts. Turn cable adjusters in until they are as short as possible. This will provide enough slack for easy removal. 4. Remove the right upper and lower switch housing screws INSTALLATION Throttle and Idle Cable Installation 1. See Figure 3. Apply graphite lightly to the throttle grip inside the switch housing and on the throttle end of the handlebar. NOTE The throttle control cable has a larger diameter retaining ring crimped to the cable end than does the idle control cable. For assembly, apply a drop of light oil on the retaining rings of the crimped inserts. 2. See Figure 7. Push the throttle cable housing and retaining ring into the larger hole of the switch housing, located in front of the tension adjuster screw. 3. Push the idle cable housing and retaining ring into the smaller hole of the switch housing, located behind the tension adjuster screw. 4. Push the throttle and idle control cable housings into the lower switch housing until each snaps into place. NOTE For models not equipped with factory-installed cruise control, if the friction shoe has fallen out or become dislodged, install the shoe with the concave side facing up and position it so the pin hole is over the point of the adjuster screw. 5. Push the throttle control grip over the end of the right handlebar until it bottoms against the closed end. Rotate the grip until the ferrule notches are at the top. To prevent binding, pull the grip back about 0.12 inch (3.2 mm). 6. See Figure 3. Position the lower switch housing beneath the throttle control grip. Install two brass ferrules (Item 3, Figure 11) from this kit onto cables, seating the ferrules in their respective notches on the throttle control grip. The cables must be captured in the grooves molded into the grip. 7. Position the upper switch housing over the handlebar and lower switch housing. Route the wire harness conduit through the depression at the bottom of the handlebar. 8. Tighten the upper and lower switch housing screws finger- tight. 9. Position the brake lever/master cylinder assembly inboard of the switch housing assembly, engaging the tab on the lower switch housing in the groove at the top of the brake lever bracket. 10. Align the holes in the handlebar clamp with those in the master cylinder housing and tighten the lower screw and flat washer finger-tight. Position for rider comfort. Beginning with the top screw, tighten the screws to 60-80 in-lbs (6.8-9.0 Nm)

Harley-Davidson Electronic Ignition Module Installation instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 23-04-2012

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Step 1: Switch main dashboard switch to “off” position (Ignition& light switch) Step 2: Disconnect negative (ground) cable from the Battery Step 3: Remove the Condenser and Breaker points from the circuit breaker timing base. Step 4: Disconnect advance/ retard cable from timing base Step 5: Remove timing base from timer shaft and housing (see your manual for instructions) Step 6: Remove circuit breaker wire stud or circuit breaker to coil wire assembly from timing base Step 7: Remove circuit breaker wire from Ignition coil, and mark terminal on coil with piece of tape. Step 8: Install the Electronic Ignition Module on the timing base. Mount this short black wire to one on the timer base screws by keeping some slack in this wire so the timing base can turn free. Solder the flag terminal to this short black wire and mount it under the timer to motor bolt. This way of mounting provides a much better grounding. Do NOT use the screws (number 1 or 2 screws from picture below) from the timing base!!!! Step 9: Now three wires pass this hole via the rubber grommet. Figure 1 Figure 2 Step 10: Reinstall the timer base on the timer shaft housing, and keep some slack in the wires before protruding the hole in the timer shaft housing, and secure with ground spring and cover retainer. Reconnect the advance/retard cable to the timer base. Step 11: Route the two long wires to the ignition coil. Check in the HD service manual for a proper route to the ignition coil. (Keep away from hot surfaces like exhaust systems). Cut the wires to the exact length necessary for mounting. Step 12: Determine the exact length of the wire loom. Keep in mind that one end of the loom enters the timer shaft housing by 1cm. Cut the loom to the proper length. Step 13: Insert both wires in the loom. Strip both wire ends and solder the two flag terminals on the wires. Step 14: Connect the red wire to the ignition coil, on the terminal where the 6 or 12 volt is supplied to. This terminal has at minimum one wire connected which runs to the main switch. Step 15: Connect the black wire to the ignition coil on the terminal which is empty, and has piece of tape on it. (Old place where the circuit breaker wire was connected to) Step 16: Install the trigger rotor on the timer shaft cam, and tighten the hex screw by using the hex key tool. Do not over tighten the screw! Step 17: Check for clearance between trigger rotor and Electronic Ignition Module. Appropriate clearance is between 0,5mm and 1,5mm . Minor adjustments can be made by unlocking the two screws and slightly shift/move the Electronic Ignition Module. Check if the rotor moves free. Timing instructions: Remove the spark plugs from the engine, but keep them connected to the spark coil cables and engine ground. This enables normal operation of the spark, and prevents unwanted engine firing on compression stroke. See service manual or handbook for timing instructions of your model Step 18: Reconnect the negative (ground) cable to the battery. Step 19: Switch main power to “on” position. The red light in the Electronic Ignition Module might already light up. If not, turn the kick starter slowly. The red light is on while charging (closed points)the Ignition coil, facing solid metal of the trigger rotor. The light goes off (open points) when the end of the solid surface of the trigger rotor passes the centre of the Electronic Ignition Module. At that point a spark is generated by the coil

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BMW R1200GS Dual Function LED Running Lights and Flashing Brake Lights installation instructions

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 08-11-2010

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The flasher is set to flash continuously as long as the brake is applied. To convert to a 5 second flash and then stay solid while the brake is applied, cut the green wire loop on the flasher. Use electrical tape to protect and secure the green wires to the other wires. 2. Remove the rider’s seat. Locate the wire bundle that starts at the rear of the motorcycle. At the most accessible spot carefully remove 3″ to 3½” of protective wire loom. I know, I know…it’s really beautifully done. Cowboy up! Take it off! 3. Mount the flasher in a location that will not crimp wires or interfere with the other bike assemblies. Locate the +12 volt wire ( GRAY wire with BLACK stripe and YELLOW banding) from the brake light Attach the kit RED wire to the brake light positive wire using one of the Posi-Tap connectors in the kit. 4. Locate the Ground wire ( BROWN wire) from the brake light. Attach the kit BLACK wire to the motorcycle ground wire using a Posi-Tap connector. 5. If you have a Fuse Block with ignition switched relay installed, route the Hyper-Lite GRAY wire to a fused circuit on the (relay activated) fuse block . 6. If you do not have a Fuse Block installed, find the alarm circuit connector under the seat . The alarm circuit has a rectangular connector and five wires, White with Black stripe; White with Brown stripe; Red with White; Brown with White; and Green with White stripe. Use a Posi-Tap to attach the Hyper-Lite GRAY wire to the green wire with white stripe. Pull the wire loom back from the wire. Tap into the wire with the Posi-Tap provided. . 7. If using the Hyper-Lite License Plate Mounting bracket, install it now. OR: Clean the side facing reflectors at the rear of the bike with alcohol. Mount the LED modules vertically on the reflectors so that the LEDs point straight back. Press in place for about 5 seconds. The tape can be used only once! If you goof, new tape is required. 8. Route the BLUE and BROWN wires from the flasher and the LED modules. Trim the Blue and Brown wires to remove any excess wire . Use a Posi-Twist to connect the 3 BLUE wires together. Use a Posi-Twist to connect the 3 BROWN wires together. (see Posi-Twist Connector instructions)

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HARLEY DAVIDSON WIRE LOOM AND HORNS INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 27-02-2012

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Remove the stock horn and bracket from the stud it is mounted to and unplug the 2 wires. Remove the seat. Route the end of the wire and hose loom without the connectors. Starting in front of the fuel valve, route this loom behind the valve, over the fuel line over the rear cylinder head along the existing wiring or hoses – if your model has any. Follow the frame to where the back bone and seat support rails come together. Route the loom up into the general area where the compressor will mount (i.e. see diagram). Attach the hose to the ‘Y’ connector on the horns themselves. Attach the two black wires from the loom to the relay terminals #87 and #30, located between the air horns behind chrome cover. Attach the wires from the original horn to the remaining terminals #85 and #86 (NOTE: it makes no difference which wire goes to which terminal). Attach the relay to the back of the horn bracket assembly or up under the fuel tank using the small cable tie provided. NOTE: the terminals must point downward to prevent water from entering the relay! Install the horn assembly using the 1/4″ thick chrome washer provided behind the horn mounting bracket. Use the original acorn nut and tighten securely. Check to see that the horns have at least 1/4″ clearance between the engine, shift linkage and choke knob. They should be horizontal or angle down at the front just slightly. Take any slack out of the loom, keeping it up against the frame and away from the engine or exhaust, using several of the small cable ties provided. COMPRESSOR MOUNTING AND WIRING Due to the vast differences in years and models, it is not possible to have one or two brackets that will fit all models. You may need to mount the compressor in a different position or find an alternative location, such as under one of the side covers. On 2001 and newer Tour models there is room in front of the battery to mount it horizontally. On 1997-2000 fuel injected models, under the front portion of the right hand side cover is an excellent location. On most Softtail models you can attach it to the frame tube behind the rear cylinder. On some models such as Sportsters there may not be a place to conceal the compressor; there is a chrome cover and cap available to dress it up for exposed mounting. (RIVCO part no #CMPCR) If mounting the compressor vertically as pictured, try to keep the end with the electrical terminals pointing downward. You can use the long cable ties provided to attach the compressor to the frame or an existing wiring loom. Once the compressor has been mounted securely, route the hose and one of the wires to it and connect the hose to the air outlet barb or fitting. Trim the wire and crimp on one of the female blade terminals and attach to the (+) terminal. Attach the white ground wire supplied to frame close enough to the compressor, so the wire will reach. Trim and crimp another female terminal to it. Attach this wire to the (-) ground terminal. The remaining black wire from the hose/wire loom goes to the battery (+) terminal through the fuse and holder provided. Trim the black wire allowing for the length and placement of the fuse holder. Crimp together and attach to the battery (+) terminal. Turn ignition on and test horns. Check wires and hoses for neat, secure routing and at least 1″ away from exhaust system. Reinstall seat etc.

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DRAG SPECIALTIES MINI SPEEDOMETER WITH LED INDICATOR LIGHTS INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Place the motorcycle on a level and secure area. Disconnect the battery. 2. Refer to the appropriate factory service manual and remove the OEM speedometer and indicator lights. The indicator lights usually unplug either in the rear of the headlight or under the gas tank area. 3. Mount the new speedometer in the desired location. 4. Locate the OEM wire for the high beam indicator light. Connect it with the blue wire from the wire harness on the speedometer. Connect the blue/black wire from the speedometer to ground. 5. Locate the OEM wire for the gauge illumination (back) lighting. Connect this wire to the orange wire on the speedometer. Connect the black wire on the speedometer to ground. 6. Locate the OEM wires for the turn signals. Usually they are brown and violet wires. NOTE: You will notice only one bulb for the turn signals in the gauge and two wires from the bike to the harness. If you connect both of these wires directly to the yellow wire on the speedometer, this will allow feedback and cause all the signals to flash at once. To prevent this, you will need to add a diode between each OEM turn signal wire and the yellow wire coming from the speedometer. We recommend that you utilize a Dyna tach adapter, Part #D-101, available separately. This tach adapter includes the diodes necessary to allow the turn signal indicator light to operate correctly. Follow the instructions for the tach adapter, substituting the wires from the original wire harness found in step 6 for the two ignition terminals shown in the wire schematic. Hook the white wire on the tach adapter to the yellow wire for the turn signal indicator on the speedometer. If you use the D-101 adapter, skip steps 7-9 and go directly to step 10. 7. Take one of the diodes, making sure to observe the correct polarity, and attach it to the brown turn signal wire on the bike. 8. Take the remaining diode, again making sure to observe the correct polarity, and attach it to the violet turn signal wire on the bike

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2008 Harley Davidson Touring models with an electronic throttle Grips Installation manual

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 08-03-2012

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1. Using a sharp knife, remove the rubber from your current grip by carefully cutting it away from the existing plastic throttle sleeve. The rubber that is adhered to the plastic sleeve must be ” shaved” resulting in a smooth plastic sleeve with no rubber. 2. Apply glue to the throttle sleeve. Use about 1/4 of the tube of glue on each side. Most of the glue should be applied to the end of the sleeve away form the throttle housing. 3. Slide the grip on to the throttle sleeve with one strong push. Use a rubber mallet if needed. Be sure not to get any of the glue into the space between the throttle sleeve and the throttle housing as well as the space between the throttle sleeve and the handlebar. *Wipe up any excess glue immediately

2006-up Harley-Davidson Single Bore Induction System Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 10-11-2010

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Remove the stock fuel induction system, including the manifold and disconnecting all wire connections. It is up to the technician as to whether the gas tank should be removed or just raised up in the rear. Picture 1 2- You will need to disassemble the stock induction system to remove the pre-listed parts for re-use. 3- Verify the new manifold size is appropriate for your motorcycle by sliding it in place. Picture 2 Picture 3 4 5- Slide the MAP sensor in place, being sure not to pinch the orange rubber seal—some clean engine oil may make this easier. Install the cable guide and verify it is aligned with the throttle cable actuator. Once alignment is satisfactory, apply Loctite® 222 to the 10-24 x 1/4″ screws and tighten to 18-22 in-lbs. 4- Install the new O-ring into the throttle body. A light film of clean engine oil can be used to help hold the O-ring in place. Align the manifold to the throttle body, use purple 222 Loctite® on the 10-24 x 1″ socket-head assembly screws (with flat washers) and tighten them to 35-40 in-lbs. 6- Using the new S&S® supplied gasket, slide the S&S supplied intake air temperature (IAT) sensor in place. Use Loctite 222 on the T10 Torx button head M3 x .5 x 10mm screws and tighten to 6-8 in-lbs. Picture 4 Picture 5 Picture 6 5 7- For the stock throttle position sensor attach the “C” shaped spacer to the end of the throttle shaft, put a 4mm flat washer on each T20 Torx button head M4 x .7 x 12mm screw, apply some Loctite® 222 and torque screws to 18-23 in-lbs. 8- Install the new O-ring on the IAC motor. Lubricate the OD of the O-ring with a light film of clean engine oil. Put a 4mm flat washer on each T20 Torx button head M4 x .7 x 12mm screw, coat the threads with Loctite 222. Install the IAC motor and tighten the screws to 18-23 in-lbs. 9- Partially install the fuel injectors in the fuel rail. Be sure to orient the black O-rings to the rail and align the clocking tabs with their holes. It may be helpful to lubricate the O-rings with clean engine oil. See Picture 9. NOTE : These are special O-rings that seal pressurized gasoline. If you see one with damage or an abrasion—replace it immediately. Picture 7 Picture 8 Picture 9 6 10- Connect the Injectors to the manifold with a light squeezing action. Lubricate the O-rings with clean engine oil. Once in place, use Loctite® 222 on the threads of two 8-32 x 5/8″ slotted panhead screws and tighten to 15-20 in-lbs. 11- Install the backing washer and O-ring on the fuel supply tube. Lubricate the O-ring with clean engine oil. When the tube is in place, position the Y-shaped clip on the fuel rail and tighten the Loctite 222 coated T20 Torx button head M4 x 7 x 12mm screw to 18-23 in-lbs – Gently push the injectors downward toward the manifold to increase clearance for connecting the wire connectors. Cut the existing injector connectors from the motorcycle harness. Slide the sleeveing onto the injector harness. Slide heat shrink tubing on to each wire of the injector harness wires. Crimp the butt splices to the motorcycle harness. Move the heat shrinks over the splices and shrink with a heat gun. Slide the sleeve into place. Picture 10 Picture 11a Picture 11b Picture 12 Picture 12a 7 13- Put the stock manifold flanges on the manifold. YOU MUST USE THE S&S® RUBBER GASKETS ON THEM. Be sure to orient the tapered end towards the manifold and the flat end to the heads. 14- Hold the manifold up in its basic mounting position and connect all of the wiring harness connectors at this time. Install the manifold using the stock mounting flange bolts (from the primary side of the motorcycle) coated with Loctite® 242 and the new S&S cam side screws (1/4″ socket head, 5/16-18 x 3/4″). If a screw longer than 3/4″ is used, damage to the heads will result. Lightly snug all four manifold mounting bolts but DO NOT TIGHTEN AT THIS TIME. Connect the throttle cables and cruise control bracket (if applicable) at this time. NOTE: The Harley-Davidson® service manual for your model motorcycle will be helpful during this step. 15- Install the breather system now. On 4.00-inch bore or smaller engines the breather uses banjo fittings with hollow bolts and connects across the heads to the intake with a T-hose. This hose will need to be trimmed and have spring clamps attached as shown in photo. Torque the hollow bolts to 10-12 ft-lbs. On 41/8-inch bore or larger engines, install the sharp bent hose on the rear head and install the check valve with the white end towards the head. Mount the other hose on the black end of the check valve and connect it to the throttle body using spring clamps to secure the connections. Picture 13 Picture 14 Picture 15 8 16- Once the breathers are secure, install the fuel line per the factory service manual you are working with. Connect the battery and verify the fuel pump turns on to pressurize the system and there are no gas leaks, but DO NOT START THE ENGINE. At this time, PC software may also be used to verify sensor readings and adjust the throttle position sensor voltage if necessary. 17- Install two 242 Loctite® coated pipe plugs (included in kit) in the air cleaner backplate as shown in Picture 16. Torque to 35-45 in-lbs. Also, two pan screws coated with Loctite® 222 must be installed in the backplate in place of the enrichment device. See Picture 16a. Torque them to 12-18 in-lbs. Failure to install these screws could allow dirt and debris into the intake system. 18- Use a new gasket on the backplate and put it in place noting the number of shims required. Once you select the appropriate shims (included) mount the backing plate to the engine but DO NOT INSTALL THE SCREWS YET

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HI-4 DUAL FIRE MOTORCYCLE IGNITION INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 09-11-2010

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Turn ignition switch off and disconnect battery ground cable. 2. Refer to Figure 3. Remove OE ignition module and wire harness (items 1-4). You will disconnect two wires at the coil (15), a wire going to the VOES (Vacuum Operated Electrical Switch) (18), a black ground wire at the ignition module, and the 3 pin plug (20) that connects to the sensor plate (11). Refer to shop manual for locations. 3. Remove ignition cover plates and gasket (items 5- 9). This will require drilling out two rivets. The rivets will later be replaced with two supplied self- threading screws. 4. In order to remove the sensor plate cable, the cable plug (20) must be removed first. Use needle nose pliers to pull the terminals out of the plug. Then pull the cable through the exit hole at the bottom of the timing cover. 5. Note location of sensor plate (11). There is a V notch in the sensor plate used for alignment. When you install the HI-4, you should align the V notch in the same location. This should set the timing close enough to start the engine. Remove and save the two standoffs and washers (10). Remove the sensor plate (11). HI-4 INSTALLATION Refer to Figure 4. The HI-4 requires use of the OE timing rotor P/N 32402-83 (used only on 1985 and newer models). If you have an older model or are not sure, check the rotor (9) for the correct part number. For models prior to 1980, use the supplied 10-32 x ¾”bolt and washer to mount the rotor. 1. Install the HI-4 system in place of the OE breaker or sensor plate. Rotate the HI-4 about 90 degrees to give better access to the cable exit hole. Install the HI-4 first, then push the cable through the hole. On some early models it may be necessary to enlarge the wire harness exit hole in the gear cover. Align the V notch on the HI-4 same as the OE plate you removed. Use the OE standoffs to secure the HI-4. You must use lockwashers under the standoffs for proper clearance between the HI-4 and cover plate. Do not fully tighten the standoffs until the timing has been set. 2. Route the HI-4 wire harness along the frame rails up to the coil. Make sure that harness will not be chafed or burned by exhaust heat. Secure harness with tie wraps. Do not install timing cover. HI-4 HOOKUP Crimp terminals and hardware are supplied for your convenience. Use the ring terminals for coil hookup. Use male-female quick disconnects for connections to the tach and vacuum switch (VOES). Tape up any unused wires. 1. Circuit Breaker Cover Screws (2) 2. Circuit Breaker Cover 3. Circuit Breaker Cover Gasket 4. Breaker Plate Screws (2) 5. Breaker Plate Screw Lockwashers & Washers (2 each) 6. Retainer (1971 to early 1972) 7. Circuit Breaker Cam Bolt 8. Breaker Plate Assembly 9. Breaker Cam 10. Advance Assembly 11. Gear Case Cover 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 NOTE: Damage will result if the brown tach wire comes in contact with +12V. Figure 1. Harley-Davidson®OE Points System
9000-4002A REV A 3 2/05 1. Identify switched +12 volt wire and tach wire (if equipped) going to the coil. Refer to your service manual, or reconnect the battery and use a test light or voltmeter. The switched +12 volt wire will be hot when the ignition key is turned on. 2. Refer to Figure 5. Connect the HI-4 red wire and switched +12 volt wire to Coil positive. 3. The HI-4 white wire is not used and should be taped. 4. Connect the HI-4 black wire to the Coil negative terminal. 5. Connect the HI-4 green wire to the vacuum switch (Figure 3, item 18), if used. 6. Connect the HI-4 brown wire to the tach wire, if equipped with tach. Tape up if unused. 7. The HI-4 is grounded via the timing housing; a separate ground connection is not required. 8. Reconnect battery ground cable. Verify proper ground connections to the frame and engine. VOES HOOKUP The OE vacuum switch (VOES) is normally an open circuit. Above 3-5 inch-Hg vacuum, the VOES closes and grounds the vacuum input on the OE ignition module. This increases the total advance generated by the OE ignition module. Vacuum advance improves part throttle 17 16 1. Cover Screws (2) 2. Ignition Timer Cover 3. Ignition Module 4. Timer Plate Screws (2) 5. Washers (2) 6. Screws & Washers (2 each) 7. Shield 8. Sensor 9. Trigger Rotor Bolt 10. Timer Plate 11. Trigger Rotor 12. Advance Assembly 13. Gear Case Cover 14. Ignition Coil 15. Spark Plug Wires (2) 16. Ignition Coil Terminal (FX) 17. Ignition Coil Terminal (FL) 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 NOTE: Most motorcycle coils do not have terminals marked. Use either terminal for Coil+ (positive) and the other one for Coil- (negative). Warning: The HI-4 (8-1100) Dual Fire ignition will not work with 2 plugs per head, dual coil application. Damage will result if attempted. Use the HI-4 (8-2100) single fire ignition for 2 plugs per head applications

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