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Harley-Davidson S&S Super E and G Series Shorty Carburetors Installation and Jetting Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 24-10-2010

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throttle linkage with no cable modification. S&S Super E and G carb kits for 1936 to 1989 Big Twins contain a throttle cable guide (11-2339) designed for butterfly type throttle cables, and kits for 1990 and later Big Twins contain a taller throttle cable guide (11-2338) designed for CV type throttle cables. See Picture 2. The two throttle cable guides are interchangeable on the carburetor body, and can be changed very easily to update older carburetors or to accommodate custom throttle cables which are not stock for a particular year chassis. 1981 to Present Sportster Models Stock Sportster models from 1981 to 1987 have two cable throttle system designed for butterfly type carburetors. Sportsters from 1988 to present have a two cable throttle system designed for use with the stock constant velocity (CV) type carburetor. Since the taller #11-2338 cable guide bracket can not be used on a Sportster chassis due to insufficient frame clearance, throttle cables on Sportsters originally equipped with a CV type carburetor must be changed to butterfly style cables. S&S can supply the correct style throttle cables. See S&S Throttle Cable Application Chart. Picture 2 S&S THROTTLE CABLE APPLICATION CHART Length Total Housing Length Vinyl Housing Part Number Open Side Part Number Close Side Fitment 36″ 32″ #19-0430 #19-0431 For Buell with 7/8″ handlebars 36″ 32″ #19-0432 #19-0433 To ’95 ’81-’85 FX and FL; All ’81-’85 XL (Also pre-’81 w/2-cable throttle housing replaced.) For Buell with 1″ diameter handlebar 36″ 32″ #19-0436 #19-0437 ’96-Up 883-1200 XL 39″ 35″ #19-0434 #19-0435 To ’95 Softail (FXSTC, FXST, FLSTC, FLSTF) ’86-’94 FXR, ’93-’95 Dyna 39″ 35″ #19-0438 #19-0439 ’96-Up Softail (FXSTS, FXSTC, FLSTC, FLSTF) ’96-Up Dyna 42″ 38″ #19-0446 #19-0447 To ’95 custom application 42″ 38″ #19-0440 #19-0441 ’96-Up custom application 48″ 44″ #19-0462 #19-0463 To ’95 All FLT Models 48″ 44″ #19-0464 #19-0465 ’96-Up All FLT Models ” 1996 to Present Buells 1996 and 1997 Buells require special S&S butterfly style throttle cables for Buells, which are compatible with the stock 1996-1997 throttle assembly. 1998 and later carburated Buells require installation of stock 1996 – 97 throttle grip and the special S&S Buell style throttle cables when installing Super E or G carburetors. S&S Throttle Kits S&S throttle kits fit 1″ handlebars and can be used on most chassis. (An adapter sleeve is available for use with earlier, 7 ⁄ 8 ” OEM handlebars originally equipped with internal throttle cable.) Barrel fittings on S&S cables readily “plug in” to S&S Super E, G, and stock H-D 1981-’90 butterfly type carb throttle linkage. Kits include one opening and one closing side cable, left and right grips, and handlebar clamps. Kits with 36″, 39″, 42″, or 48″ length cables are available. Length specified refers to overall cable length. Vinyl covered outer housing is 4″ shorter than overall length

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2002-2005 Honda VFR800/A Wire Harness Replacement Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 21-04-2011

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If the 18P (light blue) connector is in abnormal condition as shown below, contact TechLine at (800) 421-1900, option 9. FRONT SUB-HARNESS REPLACEMENT 1. Remove the front sub-harness from the cowl stay hooks. Disconnect all the electrical components from the front sub-harness. 2. Temporarily set the main wire harness aside, and disconnect the 6P (natural) con- nector. Then, carefully remove the front sub-harness. 3. Install the new front sub-harness by con- necting the 14P (natural) and 18P (light blue) connectors. NOTE: For routing specifications, refer to the WIRING & HARNESS ROUTING SECTION on pages 7-8. 4. Attach the front sub-harness on the cowl stay hooks. Make sure the front sub-harness is routed elow the main sub-harness. ABNORMAL CONDITION STAY HOOKS 6P (NATURAL) CONNECTOR FRONT UB-HARNESS 14P (NATURAL) CONNECTOR 18P (LIGHT BLUE) CONNECTOR FRONT SUB-HARNESSSTAY HOOK Page 4 VFR800/A #4 4 of 12 NOVEMBER 2007 5. Place the front sub-harness between the radiator and the frame, and below the rec- tifier. Be careful not to damage the front sub-harness or other components. 6. Re-connect the front sub-harness to the 6P (natural) connector. 7. Secure the main wire harness and the front sub-harness using the longer wire band. 8. Secure the main wire harness and the upper side of the front sub-harness using the shorter wire band. Adjust the wire har- ness located within the frame and the radi- ator hose accordingly. 9. Secure the main wire harness fuse box to the front sub-harness using the shorter wire band. FRONT SUB-HARNESS STAY HOOK MAIN-HARNESS FRONT SUB-HARNESS FRONT SUB-HARNESS 6P CONNECTOR (Male) 6P CONNECTOR (Female) WIRE BAND (LONG) WIRE BAND (SHORT)
WIRE BAND (LONG) WIRE BAND (SHORT) MAIN WIRE HARNESS FUSE BO

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1982-2005 Harley Motorcycle Removal and Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 31-03-2012

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” bolt from the mounting stem on the Signal® mirror. While seated on the motorcycle, position the Signal® mirror on the handle bar. Secure the Signal® mirror to the handle bar using the 5/ 16 ” bolt. Make sure the bolt is tight! Guide the Signal® mirror wire harness into the cowling by going along side the existing factory wire harness. 4 Remove any slack in the wire harness. Secure the wire harness to the handle bar using a supplied tie wrap. 5 6 Adjust the position of the Signal® mirror and tighten the ball retention screws. Remove the motorcycle seat. Remove the aft mounting bolts on the fuel tank. 7 Guide the Signal® mirror wire harness along the inside of the fuel tank’s front mounting bolt and between the crossover tube. 8 9 Lift up the aft portion of the fuel tank and guide the Signal® mirror wire harness down the backbone of the motorcycle frame, alongside the existing factory wire harness. The motorcycle’s electrical wiring for turn indicators is located aft of the gas tank on the backbone of the frame. Guide the new wire harness from the Signal® mirror to the electrical wiring. Cut off any excess slack in the wire. Locate the SOLID BROWN wire from the wire connector. Turn the ignition key so that electrical power is on and activate the right side turn indicator. Probe the wire with the wire tester to verify that flashing turn indicator power is present. Label that wire as ‘right side turn’. Repeat all of the previous steps to replace the left side factory mirror with the new Signal® mirror. Locate the SOLID VIOLET wire from the wire connector. Activate the left side turn indicator and probe the wire with the wire tester to verify that flashing turn indicator power is present. Label that wire as ‘left side turn

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1999-2002 Indian Motorcycle Mirror Housing Removal and Replacement

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Filed Under (Indian) by admin on 31-10-2010

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1. Remove seat. 2. Disconnect battery. 3. Remove handlebar cover on top-center of handlebar. 4. Remove left-side clutch-bracket assembly. This exposes an access hole on the underside of the handlebar. 5. Pass the end of the Signal® mirror wires through one of the small holes located on the underside of the clutch-bracket assembly housing. 6. Take piano wire/fish tape and insert at the access hole located on the underside of the handlebar to the center of the handlebar (center handlebar cover removed). 7. Fasten the end of the Signal® mirror wires to the piano wire/fish tape and pull through the handlebars to the center opening. 8. Pull excess wire through the handlebars leaving approximately 2″ of extra wire at the mirror side. 9. Re-assemble clutch-bracket assembly allowing the Signal® mirror wire to wrap around the outside edge of the cover assembly into the underside access hole. Secure Signal® mirror with enclosed 1.5″ long 5/ 16 ” – 24 Allen head bolt. 10. Loosen throttle assembly side and slide back to expose access hole. DO NOT REMOVE THROTTLE ASSEMBLY. Proceed to pass the Signal® mirror wire through the handlebar at the opposite side and re-assemble the throttle assembly. 11. Run both sets of wires under the fuel tank along the topside of the frame to the battery compartment. 12. Connect both black wires to the enclosed ring connector for connection to the battery ground terminal. 13. Locate the male/female electrical connector that is located behind the battery. This wiring assembly is for your tail lamp assembly for braking and turning (see photo). 14. Make sure the harnesses are routed securely to the wire connectors and enough slack is left for splicing or soldering. Cut the heat shrink into (4) equal pieces (approx. 2″ each). 15. Slide the heat shrink over the passenger side Signal® mirror wire. Solder the Right Signal® mirror wire to the Brown wire. Slide the heat shrink over to cover the soldered area. Heat the shrink tube into place with a heat shrink gun or hair dryer. 16. Repeat sliding the heat shrink over the driver side Signal® mirror wire. Solder the Left Signal® mirror wire to the Purple wire. Slide the heat shrink over to cover the soldered area. Heat the shrink tube into place with a heat shrink gun or hair dryer. 17. Connect ground and positive battery connections. 18. Re-install seat.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON DETACHABLE QUARTER FAIRING AND DOCKING HARDWARE KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 10-03-2011

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Installation The rider’s safety depends upon the correct installation of this kit. Use the appropriate service manual procedures. If the procedure is not within your capabilities or you do not have the correct tools, have a Harley- Davidson dealer perform the installation. Improper installation of this kit could result in death or serious injury. (00333a) NOTE If your motorcycle has directional lights mounted on the upper fork bracket they must be relocated to the bottom fork bracket. Some models have front directional lights equipped with three wires, the third black wire is a ground wire. Check to determine how many wires are connected to the front directional lights and follow the following procedure that applies. Ifdirectional lights are not mounted on the upper fork bracket proceed to “ASSEMBLING FAIRING”. Relocating Two Wire Directional Lights 1. Support motorcycle on a center stand such that front wheel is raised slightly off the ground. 2. Remove fork tube pinch screw from right side of lower bracket. 3. Cut wires connected to right directional light about 2 in. away from directional light body. 4. Remove fork tube pinch screw from right side of upper fork bracket. (This is the screw that secures the right directional light.) 5. Install right directional light on right side of lower fork bracket using pinch screw removed in step 4. Install pinch screw removed in step 2 into right side of upper bracket. Tighten both pinch screws to 30-35 ft-lbs. 6. Repeat steps 1 through 5 to relocate left directional light. NOTE Fork tubes may slide downward within fork brackets. If this occurs, front fork tube extension above front fork upper bracket will have to be readjusted according to appropriate Service Manual procedures. 7. Connect the right directional light as follows: Strip approx. 5/16 in. of insulation from the wires cut in step 3. 8. Crimp solderless connectors from kit on two wires coming from motorcycle. 9. Split one end of the 2-conductor polarized wire from kit back about 2 in. and strip 5/16 in. of insulation from wire ends. 10. Slide a piece of shrink tubing from kit over each of the wire ends stripped in step 9 and crimp the wires into the terminals installed in step 8. Make sure you connect the silver and copper colored wires to like colored wires. NOTE Polarized wire is used in this application to ensure correct wiring. One wire is silver, one is copper colored. Wire colors of spliced wire must match wire color of original directional wire leads. 11. Cut polarized wires to the length required for connection to the wires at the relocated directional light. Make certain you leave enough slack in wires to allow routing the harness along the fork tube. 12. Split remaining end of the 2-conductor polarized wire from kit back about 2 in. and strip 5/16 in. of insulation from wire ends. 13. Slide heat shrink tubes over the two wire end. 14. Strip 5/16 in. of insulation from wires connected to directional light and connect like colored wires at directional light with connectors from kit. 15. Slide heat shrink tubing over connectors installed in steps 10 and 14. Activate shrink tubing with heat gun or hair dryer.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON MULTI-FIT BRAIDED THROTTLE/ IDLE CABLE KITS REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 01-02-2011

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REMOVAL To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect negative (-) battery cable before proceeding. (00048a) 1. Disconnect battery cables, negative (-) cable first or remove the main fuse following the instructions in the service manual. NOTE When performing cable disassembly procedures, make careful notes as to the existing cable routing. Pay special attention to existing cable strap locations before removing so new straps can be placed into the same locations. Do not remove or install the master cylinder assembly without first positioning a 5/32-inch (4 mm) thick insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. Removing or installing the master cylinder assembly without the insert in place may result in damage to the rubber boot and plunger on the front stoplight switch. (00324a) 2. See Figure 1. Place the cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. 3. See Figure 2. Loosen cable adjuster jam nuts. Turn cable adjusters in until they are as short as possible. This will provide enough slack for easy removal. 4. Remove the right upper and lower switch housing screws INSTALLATION Throttle and Idle Cable Installation 1. See Figure 3. Apply graphite lightly to the throttle grip inside the switch housing and on the throttle end of the handlebar. NOTE The throttle control cable has a larger diameter retaining ring crimped to the cable end than does the idle control cable. For assembly, apply a drop of light oil on the retaining rings of the crimped inserts. 2. See Figure 7. Push the throttle cable housing and retaining ring into the larger hole of the switch housing, located in front of the tension adjuster screw. 3. Push the idle cable housing and retaining ring into the smaller hole of the switch housing, located behind the tension adjuster screw. 4. Push the throttle and idle control cable housings into the lower switch housing until each snaps into place. NOTE For models not equipped with factory-installed cruise control, if the friction shoe has fallen out or become dislodged, install the shoe with the concave side facing up and position it so the pin hole is over the point of the adjuster screw. 5. Push the throttle control grip over the end of the right handlebar until it bottoms against the closed end. Rotate the grip until the ferrule notches are at the top. To prevent binding, pull the grip back about 0.12 inch (3.2 mm). 6. See Figure 3. Position the lower switch housing beneath the throttle control grip. Install two brass ferrules (Item 3, Figure 11) from this kit onto cables, seating the ferrules in their respective notches on the throttle control grip. The cables must be captured in the grooves molded into the grip. 7. Position the upper switch housing over the handlebar and lower switch housing. Route the wire harness conduit through the depression at the bottom of the handlebar. 8. Tighten the upper and lower switch housing screws finger- tight. 9. Position the brake lever/master cylinder assembly inboard of the switch housing assembly, engaging the tab on the lower switch housing in the groove at the top of the brake lever bracket. 10. Align the holes in the handlebar clamp with those in the master cylinder housing and tighten the lower screw and flat washer finger-tight. Position for rider comfort. Beginning with the top screw, tighten the screws to 60-80 in-lbs (6.8-9.0 Nm)

SR-C400 Motorcycle Security System INSTALLATION MANUAL AND USER'S GUIDE

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 29-01-2011

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Routing the Antenna Wire The MCM includes an 18″ antenna wire. The first 12″ is a coaxial wire; the remaining 6″ is the reception antenna wire. When routing, try to avoid running the antenna along or near metal. For best performance, have the antenna wire as vertical as possible and exposed. Wire Connections The system includes one harness (HAR-1a) that connects directly into the MCM. The harness is split into three plugs: one for the GEN-1a connector, one for the optional SN-5 connector and one for the data output for future expansion. Note: Each plug is unique and will only fit the appropriate component one way. Main Harness Note: If the optional factory connector kit is being used, please disregard this section of the instructions and refer to the instructions supplied with the factory connector kit. The main harness consists of two harnesses. One is labeled (HAR-1a) and the second is labeled (GEN-1a). Plug in the white 4 pin connector from the (HAR-1a) into the matching 4 pin connector from the (GEN-1a). The (HAR-1a) also has a waterproof connector that plugs into the MCM. The wires should be connected as follows: HAR-1a Black wire with fuse and ring terminal – To battery Positive (+). GEN-1a Black wire – To ground (-). Orange wire – To tail light wire or any other wire that is hot (+) when ignition is ON (NOTE: this is an input to the alarm this connection is not designed to flash the tail light). Color Codes: Ground (-) Tail Light Honda Green wire Brown wire Kawasaki Black wire Red wire Suzuki Black/White Brown wire Yamaha Black wire Blue wire Harley Davidson Black wire Blue wire

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HARLEY DAVIDSON MULTI-FIT BRAIDED THROTTLE/IDLE CABLE KITS REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 20-03-2011

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REMOVAL To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect negative (-) battery cable before proceeding. (00048a) To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, remove main fuse before proceeding. (00251b) 1. Disconnect battery cables, negative (-) cable first or remove the main fuse following the instructions in the service manual. NOTE When performing cable disassembly procedures, make careful notes as to the existing cable routing. Pay special attention to existing cable strap locations before removing so new straps can be installed in the same locations. Do not remove or install the master cylinder assembly without first positioning a 5/32-inch (4 mm) thick insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. Removing or installing the master cylinder assembly without the insert in place may result in damage to the rubber boot and plunger on the front stoplight switch. (00324a) 2. See Figure 1. Place the cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. 3 2 1 is00825 1. Brake lever 2.5/32 inch (4 mm) cardboard insert 3. Brake lever bracket Figure 1. Install Cardboard Insert 3. See Figure 2. Loosen cable adjuster jam nuts. Turn cable adjusters in until they are as short as possible. This will provide enough slack for easy removal. 3 4 1 2 5 is 02071 1. Upper switch housing 2. Lower switch housing 3. Throttle cable adjuster 4. Idle cable adjuster 5. Adjuster jam nut Figure 2. Handlebar Throttle Control 4. Remove the right upper and lower switch housing screws. 5. Loosen the upper screw securing the handlebar clamp to the master cylinder housing. Remove the lower clamp screw and flat washer. NOTE If possible, leave the friction shoe in place. The friction shoe is a loose-fit and may fall out or become dislodged if the lower switch housing is turned upside down or shaken. 6. See Figure 3. Remove the brass ferrules from the notches on the inboard side of the throttle control grip. Remove the ferrules from the cable end fittings. 1 2 4 3 is 02072 1. Throttle cable 2. Idle cable 3. Brass ferrule 4. Notch Figure 3. Throttle/Idle Control Cables 7. Pull the crimped inserts at the end of the throttle and idle control cable housings from the lower switch housing. For best results, use a rocking motion while pulling. Remove cables with retaining rings from switch housing. Apply a drop of light oil on the retaining ring, if necessary, to help in removal. NOTE If installing different handlebars, measure the change in distance that will be required from the end of the cable housing to the throttle grip. Compare this additional required length to the cables provided in the kit. If the cables are more than 2.0 inches (51 mm) longer or more than 1.0 inch (25 mm) shorter than the above measured distance, see a Harley-Davidson dealer for the correct cable length. Install proper length throttle cables. Incorrect cable length can adversely affect motorcycle operation, which could cause loss of control resulting in death or serious injury. (00396b) 8. Follow instructions in the applicable service manual and remove air cleaner and backplate.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON WIRE LOOM AND HORNS INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 27-02-2012

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Remove the stock horn and bracket from the stud it is mounted to and unplug the 2 wires. Remove the seat. Route the end of the wire and hose loom without the connectors. Starting in front of the fuel valve, route this loom behind the valve, over the fuel line over the rear cylinder head along the existing wiring or hoses – if your model has any. Follow the frame to where the back bone and seat support rails come together. Route the loom up into the general area where the compressor will mount (i.e. see diagram). Attach the hose to the ‘Y’ connector on the horns themselves. Attach the two black wires from the loom to the relay terminals #87 and #30, located between the air horns behind chrome cover. Attach the wires from the original horn to the remaining terminals #85 and #86 (NOTE: it makes no difference which wire goes to which terminal). Attach the relay to the back of the horn bracket assembly or up under the fuel tank using the small cable tie provided. NOTE: the terminals must point downward to prevent water from entering the relay! Install the horn assembly using the 1/4″ thick chrome washer provided behind the horn mounting bracket. Use the original acorn nut and tighten securely. Check to see that the horns have at least 1/4″ clearance between the engine, shift linkage and choke knob. They should be horizontal or angle down at the front just slightly. Take any slack out of the loom, keeping it up against the frame and away from the engine or exhaust, using several of the small cable ties provided. COMPRESSOR MOUNTING AND WIRING Due to the vast differences in years and models, it is not possible to have one or two brackets that will fit all models. You may need to mount the compressor in a different position or find an alternative location, such as under one of the side covers. On 2001 and newer Tour models there is room in front of the battery to mount it horizontally. On 1997-2000 fuel injected models, under the front portion of the right hand side cover is an excellent location. On most Softtail models you can attach it to the frame tube behind the rear cylinder. On some models such as Sportsters there may not be a place to conceal the compressor; there is a chrome cover and cap available to dress it up for exposed mounting. (RIVCO part no #CMPCR) If mounting the compressor vertically as pictured, try to keep the end with the electrical terminals pointing downward. You can use the long cable ties provided to attach the compressor to the frame or an existing wiring loom. Once the compressor has been mounted securely, route the hose and one of the wires to it and connect the hose to the air outlet barb or fitting. Trim the wire and crimp on one of the female blade terminals and attach to the (+) terminal. Attach the white ground wire supplied to frame close enough to the compressor, so the wire will reach. Trim and crimp another female terminal to it. Attach this wire to the (-) ground terminal. The remaining black wire from the hose/wire loom goes to the battery (+) terminal through the fuse and holder provided. Trim the black wire allowing for the length and placement of the fuse holder. Crimp together and attach to the battery (+) terminal. Turn ignition on and test horns. Check wires and hoses for neat, secure routing and at least 1″ away from exhaust system. Reinstall seat etc.

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Harley-Davidson Road King Handlebar Removal and Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 18-03-2012

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If the wire length appears to be too short, you will have to lengthen the wires. If that’s the case, I must stress that soldering your wires is far superior to using butt splices. Wiring can be pulled from the splices and the splices themselves will take up a lot of room, making your harness bulky. To extend your wires, ensure the wire segments you are going to splice into the harness are of the same gauge as the original harness. Also, it’s a good idea to cut all of the wire segments now, ahead of time, to the same measured length. This will ensure that once all of the new wire Figure 4. Handlebar harness plug wires as they appear from the back of the plug (where the wires enter the plug from the harness) segments are spliced in, all of the finished wires are of the same length and the pins are lined up. Work from wire to wire, cutting them by staggering the cuts about an inch or so apart (see figure 5). This will prevent a bulge in your harness where all the soldering connections are. After cutting each wire, slide on a two-inch piece of heat shrink tubing before starting your soldering. Remove about ¾” of insulation from the ends of the two wire ends (one wire end being the harness, the other being the segment of new wire being spliced in). Halfway down the length of its exposed section, bend each wire 90 degrees and hook the two wire segments together at the bends. Holding the wires securely with a pair of pliers, twist them in opposite directions around each other. Make sure the ends of the wires are wrapped as tight as possible so their sharp points will not cut through the heat shrink tubing when it’s applied. Apply some soldering flux (a little is all you need) and solder the connection by first applying your soldering iron (or gun) to the wire and then applying the solder to the wire. You should not apply the solder directly to the iron as overheating the solder can lead to poorly made solder joints and improper conduction of electricity. When the connection has cooled, slide your heat shrink tubing over the joint and heat it so that the tubing shrinks, making a nice tight seal.

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