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Honda Goldwing GL1800 Solid Rear Axle Trike Conversion Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 16-02-2011

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Specifications Overall Width: 57.75″ Overall Length: 108″ Overall Length w/EZ-Steer 109.5 Wheel Base: 71″ Extended 4.5″ At Rear Axel Wheel Base w/EZ Steer 72.5″ Load Capacity: 500 Lb Tire Size: 205 / 70 / R15 Wheel Size (15″) Offset +35 mm 15x7JJ 4×4.5 Tire Pressure 20 PSI Suspension: “Zero-Flex” Internal Swing Arm utilizing 3 shocks, OEM shock absorber plus 2 coil over shock absorbers. Rear Differential: Champion Lightweight rear axle / differential assembly. Gear Ratio 2.93:1 gear ratio Brakes: Original front plus 2 high performance disc brakes at rear. Storage Capacity: 6.75 cubic feet. 3 full-face helmets and additional storage. Trike Conversion Installation Kit Honda Goldwing GL1800 Champion Trikes Page 7 of 28 Revision 10 4 Removal of Original Parts Most tasks necessary in this guide can be accomplished with the vehicle on its center stand. Secure the center stand to one of the forward crash bars with a ratchet strap to keep vehicle from rolling forward and off the center stand. Be sure that the vehicle is laterally stable as well. Remove the following from the vehicle. See OEM manual for detailed instructions. Items to be retained for return of deposit or re-installation after modification shall be duly noted. • Seat (to be re-installed without modification) • Left and right side covers (to be re-installed without modification) • Battery and battery box (to be re-installed without modification) • Left and right saddle bags • Remove taillight and locking assemblies from saddlebags (to be returned for refund of deposit) • Trunk (to be re-installed without modification) • Left and right passenger foot rests (to be re-installed without modification) • Left and right foot rest under covers (to be modified and re-installed) • Left and right rear crash bars • Saddle bag trunk stay (to be modified and re-installed) • Left and right mufflers (Mufflers only, do not remove decorative covers) • Rear wheel • Left and right pivot bolt covers (to be re-installed without modification) • Reverse resistor (to be relocated) • Swing Arm – Note : Carry out brake system modifications (Section 5) prior to removing Swing Arm. • Note : Upper bolt of mono shock can be removed without removing the fuel tank. • Note : Do not remove actuator hose from actuator pump or shock absorber. Dismounting shock actuator pump will allow more movement of shock absorber when removing swing arm.Trike Conversion Installation Kit Honda Goldwing GL1800 Champion Trikes Page 8 of 28 Revision 10 5 Brake System Modification Note : Modification to the vehicle brake system should be carried out prior to removal of the swing arm. From the manufacturer, your Honda Gold Wing brake system utilizes both front and rear brakes when the foot brake is applied. In order to insure safe operation of your Gold Wing when converted to a Champion Sidecars Trike, the brake system must be modified to isolate the front and rear brake systems from each other. Once modification is complete, four of the six pistons in the front calipers operate only when the hand brake lever is applied. The rear brakes operate only when the foot brake pedal is applied. The diagrams below outline the difference between the GL1800 OEM brake system and the system as modified by the Champion Sidecars Trike Conversion Kit.

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1999-2008 FLHT Series Harley- Davidson Trike Conversion Kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 04-12-2010

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1. Place the motorcycle on the lift. 2. Place a suitable Jack under the Frame of the Motorcycle and tie down securely. 3. Remove Drain Plug from Primary Cover Assembly and drain oil. 4. Slide Rubber Boot off of the Clutch Cable Adjuster. Loosen and back the Jam nut away from the Clutch Cable Adjuster. Move Clutch Cable Adjuster towards the Jam Nut to introduce free play in the Clutch Lever. 5. Remove the ¼ – 20 Phillips head screw and Seat. 6. Disconnect negative Battery Terminal. 7. Remove two ¼ – 20 flanged hex nuts from the Stud Plate. Save the Passenger Handrail and two nuts. 8. Remove the Saddle Bags. 9. Remove the Right and Left Side Covers. 10. Remove Inner Tour Pak Molded Liner. 11. Disconnect the Tour Pak wiring. 12. Remove five ¼ – 20 HHCS, ¼ – 20 nyloc nuts, and Aluminum Spacers. 13. Remove Tour Pak from Top Support Tube. 14. Loosen Muffler Clamp on both Mufflers and remove 2 5/16 – 18 HHCS per Muffler. Remove and discard both Mufflers. Save Muffler Clamps. 15. Remove and discard Muffler Support Plates. 16. Remove both ¼ – 20 HHCS and Front Saddle Bag Brackets. 17. Remove the twelve 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS six 5/16 – 18 nuts, and the Left and Right Saddle Bag Guards. 18. Remove the Air Line Junction from the Rear Fender. 19. Disconnect the Rear Lamp Wiring Harness and remove from T-stud Clip.
6 20. Remove two 5/16 – 18 Phillips head screws. Remove the Left and Right Frame Covers. 21. Remove two 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS. Remove and save the Top Tour Pak Support Tube Top. 22. Remove four 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS. Remove the Left and Right Rear Saddle Bag Guard Support Bracket. 23. Remove four 5/16 – 18 HHCS. Remove and save the Tour Pak Support Tube Bottom. 24. Remove and discard the Air Valve Assembly Bracket. 25. Remove four ½ – 13 HHCS and washers. Remove and discard both Rear Air Shock Absorbers. NOTE: if ABS equipped refer to separate instructions. NOTE: if ABS equipped refer to separate instructions. NOTE: if ABS equipped refer to separate instructions. NOTE: if ABS equipped refer to separate instructions. 26. Drain all Brake Fluid from the Rear Brake System. 27. Cut and remove Cable ties and un-clamp Wire Harness Loops from the Rear Brake Line along its length, including Clamps on Swing Arm. 28. Remove the 10 – 24 flanged HHCS and Rear Brake Hose Clamp from the Right Rear Fork Bracket. 29. Remove ¼ – 20 SHCS from Rear Stop Lamp Switch Bracket. 30. Remove and discard Banjo Bolt and Crush Washers on Rear Brake Caliper. 31. Remove the Spring Clip and nut from the Rear Axle. 32. Remove Rear Axle and Rear Wheel Spacers. 33. Push Rear Wheel Assembly forward and slip Rear Belt off of the Rear Sprocket. 34. Remove Rear Brake Caliper. 35. Slide Rear Wheel Assembly rearward. Remove one 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS from inside the Rear Fender well. 36. Slide Rear Wheel Assembly forward. Remove two 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS. Remove Rear Fender. 37. Remove and save the two Retaining Washers from the Stud Plate. Remove and save the Stud Plate

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Triumph Bonneville America And Speedmaster The Freak Installation Instructions and Parts List

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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INSTALLATION In order to install The Freak, the factory air-box must be removed. Because of it’s design, the factory air-box is not an item that is easily removed. There are several parts that must be removed in order to get the air-box out of the bike in one piece. We recommend using the following method to remove your air box without having to cut it into smaller pieces in order to get it out of the frame. 1. PARTS REMOVAL In order to gain access to the air-box, it is necessary to remove certain parts of the motorcycle to gain access to the air-box area of the frame. Removing the following parts should be the first steps you take. A. Seats – Remove both seats starting with the passenger pillion, if applicable. B. Side cover and grommets – Remove the plastic side cover on the right side (throttle side) of your motorcycle. This is the faux oil-tank cover that has the name of your bike on it. Underneath the side cover there are three rubber grommets (1 on the frame tab, and two on the air-box) that support the side cover. Remove the two that are on the air-box and leave the one on the frame. You will attach the two that you removed to the right side bracket in Section 4C . C. Faux air filter covers – On the right side of the bike, remove the chrome faux air filter covers, by removing the one allen head screw that holds it onto the air-box. On the left hand side (clutch side) remove the faux air filter cover in the same manner, you removed the one on the right. D. Plastic shrouds – on the left side, remove the black plastic air-box shroud, by removing the two allen head screws holding it in place. Then remove the plastic shroud covering your fuse box (this is the piece that surrounds your ignition terminal next to the battery). E. Battery – Remove the battery by unscrewing the torx-head bolt that holds the chrome bracket in place. Remove the chrome bracket and the black plastic cap. Tilt the battery out of the box with the top towards you. Disconnect both battery terminal connectors, negative (-) terminal first. Remove the battery. F. Battery box – Remove the two bolts that hold the battery box to the frame. Pull the battery box out as far as you can, then remove the the ignition terminal from the battery box, by removing the two allen screws that hold it in place from the back. Next, remove the fuse box from the battery box, by pushing it out from the back. It is not necessary to disconnect any of the wiring going to the fuse box, or the ignition terminal. G. Rear fender – Remove the rear fender, by first disconnecting the taillight wires. Follow the wires from the tail light assembly on the inside of the rear fender (left side) towards the front of the bike until you come to the box connector. Disconnect the tail light wires at this connector, being careful not to break it. Once the wiring is disconnected, remove the 6 bolts that hold it to the struts. Have someone hold the fender for you while you are removing all of the bolts so that it does not drop once the bolts are removed. Slide the fender out the rear of the bike. 2. PREPARE THE MOTORCYCLE FOR AIR-BOX REMOVAL To remove the factory air-box without damaging it, it is necessary to lift the bike. We recommend the use of a multi-position ATV/motorcycle jack with a minimum lift height of 10″. A. Setting up the lift – Place the lift under your bike and secure your bike to the lift according to the lift manufacturer’s instructions. B. Raise slightly – Lift the motorcycle to the point where the rear springs are without tension, but NOT to where the rear tire is off the ground. C. Remove the rear springs – Take off each of the rear springs by removing the the two bolts on each spring. Once all the bolts are removed gently pull the springs out off of the studs. If they do not pull off easily, you can raise or lower the bike slightly with the lift to ease tension on the spring. Remember, you should not have the rear tire off the ground at this point. The bike should only be raised enough to relax the tension in the springs. D. Remove the mufflers – Remove the mufflers by loosening the clamp at the exhaust header, and by removing the rear foot peg hangers. If the mufflers are not removed, they can become damaged by the axles in Section 2H . E. Disconnect the carburetors – With a small flathead screwdriver, pull the retainer springs out of the channel of the carburetor intake tubes (the two large black tubes coming from the air box into the back of each carburetor), and simply push them towards the air box off of the carbs

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Honda 2007-2010 Rancher 420 ATV Rear Bumper Installation

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 22-12-2011

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Honda Rancher 420 ATV Rear Bumper (2007-2010) Installation Instructions 1. Attach top bumper attachments to top rack. 2. Attach the rear bumpers lower attachment point to vertical bars

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Harley-Davidson touring bikes WHEELDOCK EZ-UP Center Stand Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 18-04-2012

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Unlike other center stands, the WHEELDOCK EZ UP stand requires very little effort to operate and can usually be done while still on the bike by simply pushing down on the foot lever with your left foot. Once you feel both feet of the center stand in contact with the ground, transfer your weight up off of the seat and onto the foot lever of the center stand. The stand should rotate under the bike and a bit forward lifting the bike quite easily. CAUTION: Never attempt to raise the bike with a passenger on board, as you will damage the foot lever. You can also raise the bike on the center stand by using the following traditional method: Place the bike on the side stand and step off to the side. From the left side of the bike, push the bike up to the vertical position and press down on the foot lever until both feet of the stand are in contact with the ground. Now apply weight to the foot lever while lifting up on the bike. For cleaning the rear wheel: first place a ½-inch piece of plywood under the stand and use this (beside the bike) method for placing the bike up on the plywood spacer; this will allow the wheel to rotate freely for cleaning. Do not try this while on the bike, as it will require too much foot pressure on the lever. You now have two options to get the bike off of the stand: You can simply rock the bike forward, or put the bike in gear and drive off in most cases as long as you are parked on a flat, level surface. Tips for solving common problems: If you have the correct height stand and you still have difficulty getting the bike up on the stand check the following: the bike must be in neutral, the wheel should be straight forward and not cocked, do not hold the front brake lever and make sure you have 15 lb or more air pressure in the rear suspension. These are the most common problems we encounter.

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Harley-Davidson The WHEELDOCK EZ-UP Center Stand Installation MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 21-03-2012

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Unlike other center stands, the WHEELDOCK EZ UP stand requires very little effort to operate and can usually be done while still on the bike by simply pushing down on the foot lever with your left foot. Once you feel both feet of the center stand in contact with the ground, transfer your weight up off of the seat and onto the foot lever of the center stand. The stand should rotate under the bike and a bit forward lifting the bike quite easily. CAUTION: Never attempt to raise the bike with a passenger on board, as you will damage the foot lever. You can also raise the bike on the center stand by using the following traditional method: Place the bike on the side stand and step off to the side. From the left side of the bike, push the bike up to the vertical position and press down on the foot lever until both feet of the stand are in contact with the ground. Now apply weight to the foot lever while lifting up on the bike. For cleaning the rear wheel: first place a ½-inch piece of plywood under the stand and use this (beside the bike) method for placing the bike up on the plywood spacer; this will allow the wheel to rotate freely for cleaning. Do not try this while on the bike, as it will require too much foot pressure on the lever. You now have two options to get the bike off of the stand: You can simply rock the bike forward, or put the bike in gear and drive off in most cases as long as you are parked on a flat, level surface. Tips for solving common questions: If you have the correct height stand and you still have difficulty getting the bike up on the stand check the following: the bike must be in neutral, the wheel should be straight forward and not cocked, do not hold the front brake lever and make sure you have 15 lb or more air pressure in the rear suspension. These are the most common problems we encounter

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HONDA FURY FRONT HEADPIPE W/HEATSHIELD, REAR HEADPIPE / MUFFLER W/HEATSHIELD INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 15-11-2010

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Remove your stock exhaust system and stock exhaust mount. Save the (4) acorn nuts that attach the headpipes to the cylinders for later use during installation. 2. Install exhaust mounting bracket onto outside of frame, where stock mounting bolts were removed, by inserting the supplied M10 x 70 mm bolt into the top mounting hole and the shorter M10 x 45 mm into the lower and thru the frame, see Figure 1. Start threading the supplied M10 Nylock nut onto lower and upper bolts but DO NOT FULLY TIGHTEN. 3. Loosen the right footpeg/floorboard assembly to help provide installation clearance for the front headpipe. 4. Slide the supplied exhaust flange over the front headpipe and bolt to cylinder using stock hardware from Step 1. DO NOT TIGHTEN at this time. 5. Place the supplied 27-61msc clamp onto the lower muffler slip collar then slide the rear headpipe / muffler assembly onto the front headpipe and into the rear exhaust port. Bolt rear headpipe to the rear cylinder using the stock acorn nuts from Step 1. See Figure 2 for clamp orientation. 6. Bolt the muffler assembly to the mounting bracket using the supplied 5/16 bolts. DO NOT TIGHTEN . 7. Make sure the front headpipe is inserted properly into the rear assembly and make sure the pipes are parallel with each other. Fully tighten the exhaust bracket to the frame first, then the front and rear cylinder acorn nuts attaching the exhaust flanges, then the muffler to the exhaust bracket. Then tighten the 27-61msc clamp last. (NOTE: If the muffler clamp is slid past the slots on the slip collar the clamp will not tighten properly.) 8. Unscrew the remaining hose clamps and feed the tail end of the clamp through the clips on the inside of the heatshields, the larger clamps go to the rear of the heatshields where they will rest on the muffler bodies, smaller ones to the front for the headpipes. The screw end of the hose clamp should be accessible for tightening but not visible when heatshields are mounted to the pipes, see Figure 3. 9. To install the front heatshield, first slide the rear portion of the heatshield over the muffler, continue to slowly slide it forward pushing the front of the shield gently into place between the frame and motor (Hint: Spread the hose clamps apart slightly to make it easier to slide them over the muffler assembly and headpipes). Make sure the muffler clamp doesn’t interfere with the heatshields and is aligned as shown in Figure 2. Snug the heatshield clamps but DO NOT TIGHTEN . 10. Install the rear heatshield in the same manor as the front heatshield. Tighten all hose clamps.

1981-1983 Yamaha Virago 750 & 920 Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 11-02-2012

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Start by loosening the rear cylinder down tube bolt located on the top of the old mufflers center collector in front of the rear tire. 2. Remove both of the front cylinder exhaust pipe head nuts and set them to the side for reuse with the MAC exhaust system. 3. Remove the right side passenger’s foot peg. Set the foot peg aside as you will need to reinstall it. 4. Remove the left side passenger’s foot peg. Set this foot peg aside as it will also need to be reinstalled. Note: When you remove this bolt the entire exhaust system will be loose and may fall. You will need to support the old exhaust at this point to keep from injuring yourself. Gently move the old exhaust system side to side to remove it from the rear cylinder down tube. Once the exhaust system is loose from the down tube remove the system from under the Virago. 5. Remove the bolt holding the rear brake pedal in place and remove the brake pedal from the motorcycle. Note: Set both the bolt and the pedal aside for reinstallation. 6. Next loosen the nut on the drivers right foot peg, 1 full turn to start with. Then remove the rear nut on the same foot peg. (Note: The bolt that this nut is on goes completely through the motorcycle. This is the center stand mounting bolt.) Now remove the front nut and set both aside for reuse with the MAC system. 7. Install the center stand stop bracket under the left passenger foot peg. Install this bracket with the 90° bend facing down and towards the rear tire. (Note: Center stand sop bracket in provided in the hardware kit and is approx. 5″ long with a 90° bend in it.) Adjust the bracket by one of the large bolts through the foot peg then through the bracket and then install it into the stock location. Put on one of the washers and a nut and snug up the nut. Lower the center stand until the center stand come in to contact with the bottom of the bracket. Tighten the nut until it will hold the bracket securely. 8. Install the rear down tube clamp onto the rear muffler and install the medium sized nut/bolt/washer onto the clamp just finger tight. 9. Install the (2) small bolts into the channel bracket on the rear muffler. Install the rear mounting bracket onto the two bolts and then install the washers and nuts onto each. Tighten the (2) nuts only slight amount so that you can slide the bracket front to rear to insure that when you install the bracket you position it properly. 10. Slide the rear pipe onto the rear down tube about ¼”to ¾” past the pre-cut slots on the rear muffler pipe. Slightly snug the clamp making sure that the position of the bolt and nut will not interfere with any moving parts. The final position of this bolt can hit the tire if it is not positioned properly. 11. Install the other large bolt into the right passenger and then through the top hole in the rear muffler mounting bracket. Insert the bolt into the stock location and install the washer and the nut. 12. Align the rear muffler and you can then tighten the nuts on the rear muffler mounting bracket, the cylinder down tube and the right side passenger foot peg.
13. Install the front muffler on the rear most mounting bolt of the drivers foot peg and put the stock nut back onto the bolt. Hand tighten the bolt only at this time. Note: Install the nut at this time is only to support the muffler and to insure that the pipe does not fall on the ground while you complete the next step. 14. Lift the front head pipe into position and start the stock nuts onto the studs. It is strongly recommended that you install new exhaust gasket at this time. Note: The new exhaust gaskets are not included in the kit but are available at your local Yamaha Dealer. After gaskets are installed hand tighten the front head pipe. 15. Remove the nut from the drivers foot peg bolt and reinstall the drivers foot peg. Note: Hand tighten only at this time. 16. Finish tightening the nuts on the front head pipes. (Install these nuts according to Yamaha’s Factory specifications.) Once the nuts are tightened on the head pipe you can then tighten the drivers foot peg nuts. 17. Reinstall the rear brake pedal and tighten the bolt that holds it on to factory specifications. 18. Check all of the bolts that you have installed of removed to insure that they are tight. 19. Start the motorcycle and check for any leaks. 20. You are finished with your new MAC Exhaust System.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON TRI-BAR AUXILIARY RUNNING LIGHT/ BRAKE LIGHT ASSEMBLY REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 02-03-2011

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REMOVAL 1. Remove the saddlebags and left side cover. To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, remove main fuse before proceeding. (00251b) 2. Remove the main fuse. 3. See Figure 1. Remove six flange nuts (1) from the right and left fender stud plates (2). 1 2 3 5 4 is04366a 1. Nut 2. Stud plate 3. Rear fascia 4. TORX screw 5. Lamp assembly Figure 1. FLHX Rear Fascia and Lamp 4. On the left side of the motorcycle, loosen the set screw and unscrew the radio antenna mast. 5. Gently open the adhesive conduit at the split line to release the rear fascia light harness. 6. At the rear of the motorcycle, spread the top of the fascia to release from the top studs at the side of the fender and then pull the bottom in a downward direction to release the fascia from the fender. If necessary, gently wiggle the fascia while pulling. 7. 2006-2008 models only: On the left side of the motorcycle, remove the bolt (with flat washer) to remove the passenger seat strap and saddlebag front mounting bracket from the chrome frame tube cover. 8. Remove the screw and chrome frame tube cover. NOTE ALL models: Make note of the wire routing and location of all cable straps. New light wiring installs the same way. 9. See Figure 2. Release the rear fascia light wires from the wire clip (1). Cut the cable straps (2) to release the rear fascia light harness (3) and radio antenna cable. 10. 2006-2008 models: Disconnect the rear fascia light connector [12B] located inboard of the upper frame tube. 2009 and later models: Disconnect the rear fascia light connector [12B] located to the rear of the fuse panel. 11. See Figure 1. Remove the two T-20 TORX® screws to release the light assembly from the fascia. Save the screws for installation of the new light. 1 3 4 2 is04378 1. Wire clip 2. Cable strap 3. Fascia light harness 4. Flange nut Figure 2. Rear Fascia Light Harness INSTALLATION 1. Route the rear fascia light wires forward through the cable clip at the top of the radio antenna bracket and then upward in front of the saddlebag rear mounting bracket to the inboard side of the upper frame tube. 2. 2006-2008 models: On the inboard side of the upper frame tube, mate the pin and socket housings of the rear fascia light connector [12]. 2009 and later models: To the rear of the fuse panel, mate the pin and socket housings of the rear fascia light connector [12]. 3. Using the slotted hole, install a new cable strap to secure the rear fascia light wires and radio antenna cable to the rear fender support. 4. Install a new cable strap to secure the rear fascia light wires and radio antenna cable to the shoulder of the upper frame tube (just in front of the air valve mounting bracket).

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Honda Goldwing GL1800 Independent Rear Suspension Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 16-02-2011

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Removal of Original Parts Most tasks necessary in this guide can be accomplished with the vehicle on its center stand. Secure the center stand to one of the forward crash bars with a ratchet strap to keep vehicle from rolling forward and off the center stand. Be sure that the vehicle is laterally stable as well. Remove the following from the vehicle. See OEM manual for detailed instructions. Items to be retained for return of deposit or re-installation after modification shall be duly noted. □ Seat (to be re-installed without modification) □ Left and right side covers (to be re-installed without modification) □ Battery and battery box (to be re-installed without modification) □ Left and right saddle bags □ Remove taillight and locking assemblies from saddlebags (to be returned for refund of deposit) □ Trunk (to be re-installed without modification) □ Left and right passenger foot rests (to be re-installed without modification) □ Left and right foot rest under covers (to be modified and re-installed) □ Left and right rear crash bars □ Saddle bag trunk stay (to be modified and re-installed) □ Left and right mufflers (Mufflers only, do not remove decorative covers) . Retain OEM muffler rubber mounting bushings and flanged spacers for re-installation of the mufflers. □ Rear wheel □ Left and right pivot bolt covers (to be re-installed without modification) □ Reverse resistor (to be relocated) □ Swing Arm and Driveshaft IMPORTANT : Carry out brake system modifications (See Section 5) prior to removing Swing Arm. Evacuating all the brake fluid from the system will prevent brake fluid spills when the OEM swing arm is removed. Note : Upper bolt of mono shock can be removed without removing the fuel tank. □ Rear Shock and Hydraulics. Unscrew angle sensor from OEM shock and secure to frame with cable tie. □ Shock arm and shock link Note : You may need to cut out the bolt that attaches the shock link to the frame Brake System Modification Note : Modification to the vehicle brake system should be carried out prior to removal of the swing arm . 5.1 Explanation of OEM brake system and changes From the manufacturer, your Honda Gold Wing brake system utilizes both front and rear brakes when the foot brake is applied. In order to insure safe operation of your Gold Wing when converted to a Champion Trike, the brake system must be modified to isolate the front and rear brake systems from each other. Once modification is complete, four of the six pistons in the front calipers operate only when the hand brake lever is applied. The rear brakes operate only when the foot brake pedal is applied. The diagrams below outline the difference between the GL1800 OEM brake system and the system as modified by the Champion Trike Conversion Kit.

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