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HARLEY DAVIDSON MULTI-FIT BRAIDED THROTTLE/ IDLE CABLE KITS REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 01-02-2011

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REMOVAL To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect negative (-) battery cable before proceeding. (00048a) 1. Disconnect battery cables, negative (-) cable first or remove the main fuse following the instructions in the service manual. NOTE When performing cable disassembly procedures, make careful notes as to the existing cable routing. Pay special attention to existing cable strap locations before removing so new straps can be placed into the same locations. Do not remove or install the master cylinder assembly without first positioning a 5/32-inch (4 mm) thick insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. Removing or installing the master cylinder assembly without the insert in place may result in damage to the rubber boot and plunger on the front stoplight switch. (00324a) 2. See Figure 1. Place the cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. 3. See Figure 2. Loosen cable adjuster jam nuts. Turn cable adjusters in until they are as short as possible. This will provide enough slack for easy removal. 4. Remove the right upper and lower switch housing screws INSTALLATION Throttle and Idle Cable Installation 1. See Figure 3. Apply graphite lightly to the throttle grip inside the switch housing and on the throttle end of the handlebar. NOTE The throttle control cable has a larger diameter retaining ring crimped to the cable end than does the idle control cable. For assembly, apply a drop of light oil on the retaining rings of the crimped inserts. 2. See Figure 7. Push the throttle cable housing and retaining ring into the larger hole of the switch housing, located in front of the tension adjuster screw. 3. Push the idle cable housing and retaining ring into the smaller hole of the switch housing, located behind the tension adjuster screw. 4. Push the throttle and idle control cable housings into the lower switch housing until each snaps into place. NOTE For models not equipped with factory-installed cruise control, if the friction shoe has fallen out or become dislodged, install the shoe with the concave side facing up and position it so the pin hole is over the point of the adjuster screw. 5. Push the throttle control grip over the end of the right handlebar until it bottoms against the closed end. Rotate the grip until the ferrule notches are at the top. To prevent binding, pull the grip back about 0.12 inch (3.2 mm). 6. See Figure 3. Position the lower switch housing beneath the throttle control grip. Install two brass ferrules (Item 3, Figure 11) from this kit onto cables, seating the ferrules in their respective notches on the throttle control grip. The cables must be captured in the grooves molded into the grip. 7. Position the upper switch housing over the handlebar and lower switch housing. Route the wire harness conduit through the depression at the bottom of the handlebar. 8. Tighten the upper and lower switch housing screws finger- tight. 9. Position the brake lever/master cylinder assembly inboard of the switch housing assembly, engaging the tab on the lower switch housing in the groove at the top of the brake lever bracket. 10. Align the holes in the handlebar clamp with those in the master cylinder housing and tighten the lower screw and flat washer finger-tight. Position for rider comfort. Beginning with the top screw, tighten the screws to 60-80 in-lbs (6.8-9.0 Nm)

KTM 250/ 300/ 380 SX,MXC,EXC ENGINE REPAIR MANUAL

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 12-11-2010

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Repair manual KTM 250 / 300 / 380 Art No 3206004 -E 2-2C main jet jet needle jet needle air control screw idle adjusting screw idle jet throttle valve Idling range A Operation with closed throttle valve. This range is influenced by the position of the air control screw 1 and the idle adjusting screw 2 . Only make adjustments when the engine is hot. To this end, slightly increase the idling speed of the engine by means of the idle adjusting screw. Turning it clockwise produces a higher idling speed and turning the screw counterclockwise produces a lower idling speed. Create a round and stable engine speed using the air control screw (basic position of the air control screw = open by 1.5 turns). Then adjust to the normal idling speed by means of the idle adjusting screw. Opening up B Engine behavior when the throttle opens. The idle jet and the shape of the throttle valve influences this range. If, despite good idling-speed and part-throttle setting, the engine sputters and smokes when the throttle is fully opened and develops its full power not smoothly but suddenly at high engine speeds, the mixture to the carburetor will be too rich, the fuel level too high or the float needle is leaking. Part-throttle range C Operation with partly open throttle valve. This range is only influenced by the jet needle (shape and position). The optimum part-throttle setting is controlled by the idling setting in the lower range and by the main jet in the upper range. If the engine runs on a four-stroke cycle or with reduced power when it is accelerated with the throttle partly open, the jet needle must be lowered by one notch. If then the engine pings, especially when accelerating under full power at maximum engine revs, the jet needle should be raised. If these faults should occur at the lower end of the part throttle range at a four-stroke running, make the idling range leaner; if the engine pings, adjust the idling range richer. Full throttle range D Operation with the throttle fully open (flat out). This range is influenced by the main jet and the jet needle. If the porcelain of the new spark plug is found to have a very bright or white coating or if the engine rings, after a short distance of riding flat out, a larger main jet is required. If the porcelain is dark brown or black with soot the main jet must be replaced by a smaller one. mixture too rich: too much fuel in proportion to air mixture too lean: not enough fuel in proportion to air 1 2 OPERATING RANGES OF THE CARBURETOR 2-3C Carburetor adjustment Basic information on the original carburetor setting The original carburetor setting was adapted for an altitude of approx. 500 meters (1600 ft.) above sea level, and the ambient temperature of approx. 20°C (68°F), mainly for off-road use and central European premium-grade fuel (ROZ 95 MOZ). Mixing ratio 2-stroke motor oil : super fuel 1:40 – 1:60. Basic information on a change of the carburetor setting Always start out from the original carburetor setting. Essential requirements are a clean air filter system, air-tight exhaust system and an intact carburetor. Experience has shown that adjusting the main jet, the idling jet and the jet needle is sufficient and that changes of other parts of the carburetor will not greatly affect engine performance. RULE OF THUMB:

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Ural carburetors Installation and idle adjustment

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Filed Under (Ural) by admin on 02-11-2010

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1. First you must adjust the idle. It is acceptable per the manual to adjust the idle by using the idle adjust screws (11). This usually involves screwing them then backing out 1 to 1.5 turns. Or you can adjust looking at the sliders 2. If installing the carburetors: a. Remove the cover (2) b. Reomve the slider (3) c. Place the throttle cable through the guide (18) with the spring (4) on the cable. d. Route the cable through the slide catch (6) e. Insert the slide assembly into the chamber and make sure it easily slides up and down. Direct the needle (8) into the opening of the diffuser (angled side visible). f. Screw assembly together and verify via throttle movement that slide moves freely. Attach fuel delivery lines to (12). 3. Using the idle set screw (11) raise the slider so the lower edge is 1-2 mm. 4. Assemble to engine using the proper gaskets (paper – felt – paper). 5. Using the locknut (26) adjust the free play of the throttle cable (2-3 mm) 6. Adjust the idle mixture screw – turn in completely then out 1 to 1.5 turns 1. Remove one of the spark plug caps, and with the cap shorted, adjust (11) to decrease RPM’s to a point of being minimally steady. 2. Adjust the mixture (15) out until RPM’s decrease. Turn in until RPM’s increase slightly. Then turn in screws ¼ to 1/3 revoultion. 3. Do the same for the second carburetor with the first spark plug cap shorted. 4. With both cylinders, adjust each idle (11) on each carburetor the same amount each until it’s at a steady, minimal RPM. Use small changes. (at this point you can use your airflow tool to check). 5. Sharply increase, then decrease throttle. Then engine must return to low RPMs smoothly. If the engine goes below limits, readjust (11) from step 4. Synchronization of the K68 Note: Rather than using the opposite cylinder shorted to test the pull of the live cylinder carburetor, you can use something like a Twinmax connected to the test ports (27 Fig 1). Or, if you have a model without these ports, use a Synchrometer (Appendix 2) held against the face of the carburetor. These tools merely show airflow passing through each carburetor (which is dependent on the position and wear on the slide). If using these tools, it’s not necessary to do the following steps. You wil want to use a throttle guide (Appendix 1), to show airflow at various throttle settings. Using the flow meter of your choice make sure each carburetor is the same at the various throttle settings. 1. Place the motorcycle on the center stand ensuring the rear wheel is suspended 2. Make sure you have large area to work with (safety issues here) 3. Shift into the highest gear with the engine running 4. Short one spark plug cap to the cylinder (using a nail or something in the fins) 5. Increase the speed to 40-50 km/hr 6. Fix the throttle using the throttle (maybe using a throttle stop screw under the throttle housing). 7. Reconnect other cylinder and using the opposite carburetor determine the speed which should be the same as the first. 8. Adjust the position of this slide to achieve the referenced speed using the locknut at the top of the carburetor.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON MULTI-FIT BRAIDED THROTTLE/IDLE CABLE KITS REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 20-03-2011

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REMOVAL To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect negative (-) battery cable before proceeding. (00048a) To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, remove main fuse before proceeding. (00251b) 1. Disconnect battery cables, negative (-) cable first or remove the main fuse following the instructions in the service manual. NOTE When performing cable disassembly procedures, make careful notes as to the existing cable routing. Pay special attention to existing cable strap locations before removing so new straps can be installed in the same locations. Do not remove or install the master cylinder assembly without first positioning a 5/32-inch (4 mm) thick insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. Removing or installing the master cylinder assembly without the insert in place may result in damage to the rubber boot and plunger on the front stoplight switch. (00324a) 2. See Figure 1. Place the cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. 3 2 1 is00825 1. Brake lever 2.5/32 inch (4 mm) cardboard insert 3. Brake lever bracket Figure 1. Install Cardboard Insert 3. See Figure 2. Loosen cable adjuster jam nuts. Turn cable adjusters in until they are as short as possible. This will provide enough slack for easy removal. 3 4 1 2 5 is 02071 1. Upper switch housing 2. Lower switch housing 3. Throttle cable adjuster 4. Idle cable adjuster 5. Adjuster jam nut Figure 2. Handlebar Throttle Control 4. Remove the right upper and lower switch housing screws. 5. Loosen the upper screw securing the handlebar clamp to the master cylinder housing. Remove the lower clamp screw and flat washer. NOTE If possible, leave the friction shoe in place. The friction shoe is a loose-fit and may fall out or become dislodged if the lower switch housing is turned upside down or shaken. 6. See Figure 3. Remove the brass ferrules from the notches on the inboard side of the throttle control grip. Remove the ferrules from the cable end fittings. 1 2 4 3 is 02072 1. Throttle cable 2. Idle cable 3. Brass ferrule 4. Notch Figure 3. Throttle/Idle Control Cables 7. Pull the crimped inserts at the end of the throttle and idle control cable housings from the lower switch housing. For best results, use a rocking motion while pulling. Remove cables with retaining rings from switch housing. Apply a drop of light oil on the retaining ring, if necessary, to help in removal. NOTE If installing different handlebars, measure the change in distance that will be required from the end of the cable housing to the throttle grip. Compare this additional required length to the cables provided in the kit. If the cables are more than 2.0 inches (51 mm) longer or more than 1.0 inch (25 mm) shorter than the above measured distance, see a Harley-Davidson dealer for the correct cable length. Install proper length throttle cables. Incorrect cable length can adversely affect motorcycle operation, which could cause loss of control resulting in death or serious injury. (00396b) 8. Follow instructions in the applicable service manual and remove air cleaner and backplate.

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Adjusting the Pekar K68 for Dnepr or Ural

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 11-11-2010

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1. Make sure the ignition timing is correct 2. Adjust the valves as necessary to ensure proper operation 3. Run the engine to warm it up a bit 4. Adjust the float setting. To do this, remove the carburetors (leave the throttle cables attached), remove the bowl and turn the carburetor upside down (fuel will spill). The float should look like this: Adjust as necessary by bending the float support (#37 in Figure 1). Reinstall Installation and idle adjustment 1. First you must adjust the idle. It is acceptable per the manual to adjust the idle by using the idle adjust screws (11). This usually involves screwing them then backing out 1 to 1.5 turns. Or you can adjust looking at the sliders 2. If installing the carburetors: a. Remove the cover (2) b. Reomve the slider (3) c. Place the throttle cable through the guide (18) with the spring (4) on the cable. d. Route the cable through the slide catch (6) e. Insert the slide assembly into the chamber and make sure it easily slides up and down. Direct the needle (8) into the opening of the diffuser (angled side visible). f. Screw assembly together and verify via throttle movement that slide moves freely. Attach fuel delivery lines to (12). 3. Using the idle set screw (11) raise the slider so the lower edge is 1-2 mm. 4. Assemble to engine using the proper gaskets (paper – felt – paper). 5. Using the locknut (26) adjust the free play of the throttle cable (2-3 mm) 6. Adjust the idle mixture screw – turn in completely then out 1 to 1.5 turns. * Starting using the K68′s (cold weather) 1. Verify fuel flow. Apply choke (pull 52 in Fig1). 2. Using the ticklers (13) allow fuel to enter the bowl until fuel drains from (14) 3. With the ignition off, kick 1 or 2 times 4. Turn ignition on, and as soon as engine is warmed up (maybe sooner) push choke mechanisms to open choke Idle Adjustment (engine running and warm) 1. Remove one of the spark plug caps, and with the cap shorted, adjust (11) to decrease RPM’s to a point of being minimally steady. 2. Adjust the mixture (15) out until RPM’s decrease. Turn in until RPM’s increase slightly. Then turn in screws ¼ to 1/3 revoultion. 3. Do the same for the second carburetor with the first spark plug cap shorted. 4. With both cylinders, adjust each idle (11) on each carburetor the same amount each until it’s at a steady, minimal RPM. Use small changes. (at this point you can use your airflow tool to check). 5. Sharply increase, then decrease throttle. Then engine must return to low RPMs smoothly. If the engine goes below limits, readjust (11) from step 4. Synchronization of the K68 Note: Rather than using the opposite cylinder shorted to test the pull of the live cylinder carburetor, you can use something like a Twinmax connected to the test ports (27 Fig 1). Or, if you have a model without these ports, use a Synchrometer (Appendix 2) held against the face of the carburetor. These tools merely show airflow passing through each carburetor (which is dependent on the position and wear on the slide). If using these tools, it’s not necessary to do the following steps. You wil want to use a throttle guide (Appendix 1), to show airflow at various throttle settings. Using the flow meter of your choice make sure each carburetor is the same at the various throttle settings. 1. Place the motorcycle on the center stand ensuring the rear wheel is suspended 2. Make sure you have large area to work with (safety issues here) 3. Shift into the highest gear with the engine running 4. Short one spark plug cap to the cylinder (using a nail or something in the fins) 5. Increase the speed to 40-50 km/hr 6. Fix the throttle using the throttle (maybe using a throttle stop screw under the throttle housing). 7. Reconnect other cylinder and using the opposite carburetor determine the speed which should be the same as the first. 8. Adjust the position of this slide to achieve the referenced speed using the locknut at the top of the carburetor.

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Harley-Davidson S&S Super E and G Series Shorty Carburetors Installation and Jetting Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 24-10-2010

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throttle linkage with no cable modification. S&S Super E and G carb kits for 1936 to 1989 Big Twins contain a throttle cable guide (11-2339) designed for butterfly type throttle cables, and kits for 1990 and later Big Twins contain a taller throttle cable guide (11-2338) designed for CV type throttle cables. See Picture 2. The two throttle cable guides are interchangeable on the carburetor body, and can be changed very easily to update older carburetors or to accommodate custom throttle cables which are not stock for a particular year chassis. 1981 to Present Sportster Models Stock Sportster models from 1981 to 1987 have two cable throttle system designed for butterfly type carburetors. Sportsters from 1988 to present have a two cable throttle system designed for use with the stock constant velocity (CV) type carburetor. Since the taller #11-2338 cable guide bracket can not be used on a Sportster chassis due to insufficient frame clearance, throttle cables on Sportsters originally equipped with a CV type carburetor must be changed to butterfly style cables. S&S can supply the correct style throttle cables. See S&S Throttle Cable Application Chart. Picture 2 S&S THROTTLE CABLE APPLICATION CHART Length Total Housing Length Vinyl Housing Part Number Open Side Part Number Close Side Fitment 36″ 32″ #19-0430 #19-0431 For Buell with 7/8″ handlebars 36″ 32″ #19-0432 #19-0433 To ’95 ’81-’85 FX and FL; All ’81-’85 XL (Also pre-’81 w/2-cable throttle housing replaced.) For Buell with 1″ diameter handlebar 36″ 32″ #19-0436 #19-0437 ’96-Up 883-1200 XL 39″ 35″ #19-0434 #19-0435 To ’95 Softail (FXSTC, FXST, FLSTC, FLSTF) ’86-’94 FXR, ’93-’95 Dyna 39″ 35″ #19-0438 #19-0439 ’96-Up Softail (FXSTS, FXSTC, FLSTC, FLSTF) ’96-Up Dyna 42″ 38″ #19-0446 #19-0447 To ’95 custom application 42″ 38″ #19-0440 #19-0441 ’96-Up custom application 48″ 44″ #19-0462 #19-0463 To ’95 All FLT Models 48″ 44″ #19-0464 #19-0465 ’96-Up All FLT Models ” 1996 to Present Buells 1996 and 1997 Buells require special S&S butterfly style throttle cables for Buells, which are compatible with the stock 1996-1997 throttle assembly. 1998 and later carburated Buells require installation of stock 1996 – 97 throttle grip and the special S&S Buell style throttle cables when installing Super E or G carburetors. S&S Throttle Kits S&S throttle kits fit 1″ handlebars and can be used on most chassis. (An adapter sleeve is available for use with earlier, 7 ⁄ 8 ” OEM handlebars originally equipped with internal throttle cable.) Barrel fittings on S&S cables readily “plug in” to S&S Super E, G, and stock H-D 1981-’90 butterfly type carb throttle linkage. Kits include one opening and one closing side cable, left and right grips, and handlebar clamps. Kits with 36″, 39″, 42″, or 48″ length cables are available. Length specified refers to overall cable length. Vinyl covered outer housing is 4″ shorter than overall length

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How To Adjust the Accelerator Pump On the 40mm Mikuni Carburetor

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 21-01-2012

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1) The “blue” colored screw in the image is the duration adjustment screw. Underneath the head of the screw is a lock nut and the bracket arm that the screw is threaded into. To decrease the amount of fuel squirted the adjustment screw is turned “clockwise” or in. To increase the amount of fuel squirted the adjustment screw is turned “counter clockwise” or out. To get the max, amount of decrease remove the screw and take the lock nut off of the screw. Then replace the screw into the cam arm, then replace the lock nut underneath the arm on the screw. this gives you another 3/32″ of an inch in which the screw can be screwed in.
2) Turn the adjustment screw fully clockwise or IN. Start your engine, Blip your throttle open, if the engine stutters, (hesitates), it is not getting enough fuel so turn the screw counter clockwise to increase the amount of fuel squirted from the accelerator pump into the carburetor. Keep blipping the throttle and adjusting the screw till the carburetor starts to cough. Stop here and turn the screw back in till the coughing stops. Tighten down the lock nut. This should give you the best throttle response with the least amount of coughing and backfiring out the carburetor. Timing Adjustment Screw This is the “Green” colored screw just above the Blue duration adjustment screw. The” Mucker” said it best,,,,, This upper screw adjusts the “timing” of the squirt. By altering it’s setting, you can advance or delay the onset of the fuel squirt. But probably, it won’t have to be touched

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2004 Honda CRF450R OWNER'S MANUAL

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 21-11-2010

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motorcycle can be kickstarted with the transmission in gear by disengaging the clutch before operating the kickstarter. Check the engine oil, transmission oil and coolant levels before starting the engine (page 21, 23, 24). Cold Engine Starting: 1. Turn the fuel valve ON. 2. Shift the transmission into neutral. 3. If the temperature is 35°C (95°F) or below, pull the choke knob fully out. 4. If the temperature is below 0°C (32°F), open the throttle two or three times. (The engine requires a richer mixture for starting in cold weather. When the throttle is so opened, the accelerator pump will feed extra fuel to the cylinder, thereby facilitating starting in cold weather.) 5. With the throttle closed, operate the kickstarter starting from the top of the kickstarter stroke, kick through to the bottom with a rapid, continuous motion. (Do not open the throttle, As the carburetor is equipped with an accelerator pump, excessive fuel will be charged into the engine, and the spark plug will be fouled if the throttle is opened and closed repeatedly. Excessive fuel in the engine makes kick- starting difficult.) 6. About a minute after the engine starts, push the choke knob back all the way to fully OFF. If idling is unstable, open the throttle slightly. (1) FUEL FILL CAP (2) BREATHER TUBE WARNING (1) FUEL VALVE (2) CHOKE KNOB Warm Engine Starting: 1. Turn the fuel valve ON. 2. Shift the transmission into neutral. 3. Pull the hot start lever and kick-start the engine. (Do not open the throttle.) 4. As soon as the engine starts, release the hot start lever 1. Shift the transmission into neutral. 2. Pull the hot start lever and kick-start the engine. (Do not open the throttle.) 3. As soon as the engine starts, release the hot start lever. Starting the engine excessively charged with fuel by throttle blipping or other reasons: 1. Shift the transmission into neutral. 2. With the throttle fully opened, repeat kickstarter operation approximately 10 times very slowly to discharge excessive fuel from the engine. 3. Pull the hot start lever and kick-start the engine (Do not open the throttle.) 4. As soon as the engine starts, release the hot start lever. Stopping The Engine 1. Shift the transmission into neutral. 2. Turn the fuel valve OFF. 3. Lightly open the throttle 2 – 3 times, and then close it. 4. Depress and hold the engine stop button until the engine stops completely. NOTE: • Failure to close the fuel valve may cause the carburetor to overflow. (1) THROTTLE GRIP (2) ENGINE STOP BUTTON Break-In Procedure Help assure your CRF’s future reliability and performance by paying extra attention to how you ride during the first operating day or 15 miles (25 km). During this period, avoid full-throttle starts and rapid acceleration. This same procedure should be followed each time when: • Piston is replaced • Rings are replaced • Cylinder is replaced • Crankshaft or crank bearing are replaced

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HARLEY DAVIDSON UNIVERSAL VISTA INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 12-03-2012

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1. Turn Harley Davidson thumb screw control all the way off. 2. Remove screw (A) from the motorcycle throttle housing. Position the mounting bracket, as shown in drawing. Replace throttle housing screw through the hole in the foot of the mounting bracket and into the throttle housing. Loosely tighten screw. 3. Slide the cruise control’s slip ring assembly over the end of the throttle grip up to the switch housing. NOTE: Metal band on slip ring assembly is next to switch housing not set screws. Insert correct size rubber filler between slip ring assembly and grip with “joint” of filler on bottom side, midway between two set screws. Tighten all set screws into rubber filler until tight or flush. 4. Place thumb lever slot over eye bolt. Depress spring to line up holes, and insert socket head screw. 5. Insert thumb lever screw into the hole in the head of mounting bracket that keep screw parallel to grip. Install the washer then the locknut on the thumb lever screw. Tighten locknut until mounting bracket and thumb lever are snug BUT loose enough to let thumb lever move freely up and down. 6. Secularly tighten the throttle housing screw (A) in step 1. 7. Twist throttle back and forth to insure there is no binding, slip ring is “SQUARE” with switch housing and thumb lever operates smoothly between “ON” and “OFF”. 8. CRUISE CONTROL ADJUSTMENTS – Twist throttle to half position and push thumb lever down to “SET” position. Throttle should hold snugly in this position. Flipping thumb lever to “OFF” position, releases cruise control hold, throttle should return to “OFF” position. Tightening acorn nut (B) will increase cruise control hold. Loosening acorn nut will decrease cruise control hold. Always check to make sure that throttle can be rotated both ways in “SET” position after adjustments.

BMW R1200RT Sport/ Touring 1100X Kit Installation Manual

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 17-12-2010

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Step 1 — Locate ‘mold circle’ indentation on each side fairing panel (Pic 1). With panel mounted on bike, this indentation is center, at rear inside panel edge, and faces inside. Temporarily install bracket as shown in (Pic 2), align bottom bracket hole over indentation and mark for hole. Remove brackets at this time. Step 2 — Remove fairing body side panels. Four screws per side required for removal, see owners manual. Drill a 3/8″ hole at mark. If harness kit has not been installed, do not re-install left side panel until finished unless you remove tank to install harness. Removal of the tank is the best option to route harness from battery area to front of the bike. Step 3 — As required, re-install fairing body side panels. Do not re-install the top factory inner panel Torx Screw yet, as you will re-use this screw to secure the top light bracket mounting hole to the fairing panel. Step 4 — Using 10/32×1/2 screws and black shoulder washers from Hardware package, secure lights to PIAA Ezy-Mount® brackets (See Pics 3 & 4). Right side bracket is stamped ‘EZY-MOUNT’. See note below for Powersports lights. Due to close proximity of the light body to fairing side panel, access to the vertical adjustment screw on the panel side of the light will not be possible after installation. To prepare for this; before installing bracket/light assembly to panel, make sure this screw is tightened so that you can barely move the light body. After bracket is installed, final vertical adjustment can be secured with the inside screw. Torque on this screw is adequate to hold vertical adjustment, and the screw that faces the panel will not come loose. NOTE: WHEN INSTALLING POWERSPORTS LIGHTS, YOU MUST INSERT THE SHOULDER ADAPTER WASHER INTO THE LIGHT FOOT, BEFORE INSERTING SCREW TO SECURE LIGHT FOOT TO BRACKET. THIS ADAPTER CENTERS LIGHT FOOT OVER PEMNUT (TIGHTEN THIS SCREW SECURELY). Step 5 — Insert well nut into previously drilled 3/8″ hole. Place bracket assembly against fairing, aligning top hole with the top fairing mounting position; re-install the factory Torx screw at this location. Adjust as necessary and install the second supplied SS 10/32 x 5/8 Torx screw thru the lower bracket mounting hole to the well nut. With constant pressure on the screw, tighten securely. Constant pressure ensures that the rear expandable section of the well nut captures the back of the plastic inner panel as you tighten the screw. Future removal of fairing panels is now possible with light assembly installed (utilizing the bottom bracket mounting screw), thus re-alignment of lights is not required after normal maintenance.