honda motorcycles 2005 vtx shadow steering lock

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Honda VTX 1800 Motorcycles EZ-Steer Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 16-02-2011

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Honda VTX 1800 EZ-Steer Instruction Installation of the Champion EZ-Steer system is similar to the installation of the OEM triple clamps of your Honda VTX 1800 Motorcycle. We strongly recommend that you use your OEM service manual and follow the prescribed disassembly, installation and torque specifications (except where noted below) for the upper and lower clamp assembly. Recommended Procedures • Disconnect all wiring to headlight and remove headlight, windscreen (if so equipped) and brackets from motorcycle. • Remove handle bars from top clamp. • Remove brake caliper and brackets; disconnect all mounting points on brake lines. Secure calipers to frame being careful not to damage brake lines. • The wheel and fork tube assembly can be removed as one complete unit. • Remove steering lock fromOEM bottom clamp and install on Champion’s bottom clamp. • Replacing the upper OEM bearing and race with the Champion supplied bearing and race, install Champion’s lower triple clamp to motorcycle reusing original hardware as removed. Torque bearing lock nut to 35 lb. ft.. • Install covers to bottom forks if supplied with OEM motorcycle. • Install Champion upper clamp with OEM washer and dome nut. Leave loose. • Slide forks up and into the upper clamp until top of forks are flush with top surface of clamp. • Torque dome nut to 75 lb. ft.. • Ensure that fork tube extensions are flush with top of upper clamp. Torque lower 8mm bolts to 20 lb.ft. and upper 10 mm clamp bolts to 30 lb. ft.. • Install handle bars to upper clamp using OEM nut and flat washers. • Reinstall brake line holders to the lower triple clamp. • Reinstall all other OEM parts as removed. • Bleed brakes. • OEM windshield # 08R80-MCH-100 can be used on this kit

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STEERING GEAR/ STEERING WHEEL REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Uncategorized) by admin on 05-10-2011

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TEERING GEAR/STEERING WHEEL REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Page 3 of 4 STEERING GEAR/STEERING WHEEL INSTALLATION PROCEDURES (Cont’d) 2. Center spiral cable. a. Turn the cable counterclockwise by hand until it becomes harder to turn. b. Then rotate the cable clockwise about 2.5 or 3 turns to align the marks. (See Fig. 4) 3. Install the steering wheel. a. Align the matchmarks on the wheel and steering main shaft. b. Temporarily tighten the wheel set nut. c. Connect the spiral cable connector. 4. Bleed Power Steering System (when applicable). 5. Check steering wheel center point. 6. Torque steering wheel set nut. See the applicable vehicle’s repair manual for the torque specification. 7. Install and center steering wheel pad. NOTICE: Make sure the pad is centered and installed to the specified torque. If the pad has been dropped, or there are cracks, dents or other defects in the case or connector, replace the wheel pad with a new one. When installing the pad, take care that the wiring does not interfere with other parts and is not pinched between other parts. a) Connect the airbag wiring connector. b) Install the pad after confirming that torx screws are in the screw case. c) Using a torx socket, torque the screws to the specification in the vehicle’s Repair Manual. (See Fig. 5) d) Install the steering wheel lower cover

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Motorcycle Derived Steering / Suspension Systems

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 29-11-2010

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1. Examine the handlebars and fork yokes. 2. Turn the steering from lock to lock with the steered wheel both on a turning plate and clear of the ground. Cont’d Reason for Rejection 1. A handlebar or fork yoke a. deformed b. fractured c. cracked d. excessively corroded e. clamps not tight, or any bolt loose or missing f. handgrips missing or not secure to handlebars g. handlebar flexible mounting excessively deteriorated. 2. a. any fouling or restriction of the free movement of the steering from lock to lock b. handlebar grip/s or handlebar mounted control/s have no clearance with any other part of the machine when the steering is placed on either full lock c. steering movement excessively stiff or rough Reason for Rejection 5 does not apply to fork gaiters or shrouds. . Cont’d Method of Inspection 3. Examine the steering damper. 4. Examine the steering head bearings. 5. Examine the front fork assembly. Cont’d Reason for Rejection 3. A steering damper a. insecure b. ineffective c. impairing the steering action. 4. Excessive free play in the steering head bearings. 5. A fork assembly component which is a. missing b. loose c. cracked d. excessively bent, misaligned, corroded, worn, or has excessive free play between the sliding members of the forks, the pivot bearings or bushes e. restricted in operation f. fouling

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Tacoma Power Steering Pump Improving Power Steering Reservoir modification

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 02-10-2011

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For my SAS I decided to add hydraulic steering assist as it comes in real handy for rock crawling. I got the Redneck Ram setup from the folks at West Texas Off-road that includes rebuilding an earlier IFS steering box along with drilling and tapping the box for the included ram. One of the down sides of adding a ram is that it slows the steering down because the stock steering pump has to supply the added volume for the hydraulic ram. Another is that it creates a fluid volume change in the system reservoir that needs to be compensated for in some way. After doing some reading on the West Texas site about how to go about modifying a Saginaw pump and reading up on earlier Toyota pump mods for steering assist setups on the Pirate board, I decided to give it whirl and see what I could do about the Tacoma pump. Chuck Gardella was kind enough to supply me with a blown pump that I could rebuild and submit to my endless fiddling and tinkering. I plan to give him my pump in return when I get this one done and installed. You need to do something to allow for more room in the reservoir for the standard hydraulic ram assist setup so I decided to tackle the reservoir first. The reason you need the extra space is because the ram is unbalanced. That is there is a rod on one side of the cylinder and not on the other side so the volume of the fluid has to change in the system to account for the volume of the rod as it travels back and forth. I calculated the volume of the rod that I have at full stroke to be about 2 oz or so. This would equate to plus or minus up to 2 oz. in the pump reservoir. Well first off, it’s no wonder why so many folks boil their steering pumps over with heavy wheeling and have so many other steering problems. The stock power steering reservoir doesn’t even rate pint sized

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Honda RC51 2000-2005 SBK Undertail Kit INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 22-11-2011

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Carefully remove the tail section body work. Save all bolts, washers and plastic rivets for re-installation of tail. Disconnect and remove the brake light (with all mounting grommets and washers), license plate and turn signals, key lock (with clip) and move all wiring out of the cutting areas. Remove the two bolts at the rear end of the stock fender (inside glove box) to allow the end to hang down for cutting Using a “Dremel” tool or cutting disc (this can also be done using a sharp edged knife, but is not recommended), remove the plastic shown in the photos to the above and below. Your subframe may be different but the cutting position is the same on all years. Be sure to take your time cutting, so that you don’t cut away any more plastic than necessary Replace all bodywork with fasteners loosely installed, mount undertail,
notice at bottom of the tray there are 2 holes, mark and remove tray, then drill holes in battery box 6) Inset lock into undertail using stock lock mounting clip, make sure the lock is in the correct position with the lock cable arm to function
properly. Insert undertail left side first, then right side, be carefull not to crack or scratch undertail. Use your stock plastic screw rivets to hold undertail in place. Attach lock cable to lock, check movement, adjust if necessary. Tighten all hardware on tail section, attach seat. * After this modification your undertail is not returnable. Paint is not war-
rantied against paint chips, flaking or scratches from installation or rocks being thrown from tire into the tray.
6) *Install license plate brackets to back side of license plate as shown. Now hold license plate in desired location on undertail, carefully mark and drill holes, install using the two (2) sets of allen bolts and lock nuts

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HONDA VTX 1800R AND VTX 1300R SOLO RACK INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 21-12-2010

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1. Remove the stock passenger seat. And “U” shaped mounting bracket from the rear fender. 2. Install the 2 “L” brackets provided (NOTE: there is a left and a right) onto the rear fender using the bolts from the stock bracket. Snug the bolts just enough to still allow them to slide. 3. Using the 3 knobs provided re-install the stock seat using the knob with the long stud in the rear hole. Center the slot in the seat and tighten the knob. Install the 2 knobs with the short threaded studs through the front seat mounting holes and into the new brackets. Center the bracket holes to the seat holes and snug the knobs. This will align the forward brackets. Carefully remove all three knobs and the seat. Tighten the forward bracket securely. 4. Install the solo rack starting with the 2 short knobs at the front then the long knob at the rear with the black spacer between the rack and the fender. Tighten all 3 knobs securely, as tight as you can by hand. Lost knobs are not a warrantable item. Now you can switch from your new cool solo rack look back to your stock passenger seat in seconds without any tools. NOTE: when using the stock seat, place the black spacer on the long rear knob and install them over the stock rear seat bracket. This keeps the long stud from extending below the inside of the fender and possibly contacting the rear tire if the rear shocks should bottom out

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HONDA VTX, VTX RETRO AND VALKYRIE DRIVE SHAFT COVER INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 21-12-2010

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1. Place the cover over the drive shaft housing. 2. Hook one end of the springs provided into the lower holes. Wrap the springs around the backside of the drive shaft housing. Using a needle nose pliers stretch the springs and hook them into the upper holes. 3. Note; if springs are too long, shorten and reform end to be able to hook spring in place.

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HONDA VTX DESTINATIONS FUEL SYSTEM INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 10-02-2012

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WHY CHOOSE A VTX? Riders have always chosen Hondas because they want to ride. Really ride. They like the performance. The reliability. The build quality. They know that a Honda is a bike you can rely on for decades, and thousands of miles. Our 2008 Honda VTX® cruisers still offer all that. But along the way, we’ve added another feature: drop-dead-gorgeous good looks. It used to be you had to choose between performance and style. Between reliability and looks. But with a Honda VTX, you can have it all. Maybe you’re content to trailer your bike places, or to just ride it ten minutes at a time and then get off and pose. Hey, whatever turns your crank—it’s your life. But when you want to actually ride, well, then there’s only one choice

Honda VTX 1300 EZ-Steer Installation Instruction

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 16-02-2011

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installation of the Champion EZ-Steer system is similar to the installation of the OEM triple clamps of your Honda VTX 1300 Motorcycle. We strongly recommend that you use your OEM service manual and follow the prescribed disassembly, installation and torque specifications (except where noted below) for the upper and lower clamp assembly. Recommended Procedures • Disconnect all wiring to headlight and remove headlight, windscreen (if so equipped) and brackets from motorcycle. • Remove handle bars from top clamp. • Remove brake caliper and brackets; disconnect all mounting points on brake lines. Secure calipers to frame being careful not to damage brake lines. • The wheel and fork tube assembly can be removed as one complete unit. • Remove caps and install supplied extensions to fork tubes using the supplied o-rings. Apply lubricant to o-rings and extensions prior to installing to fork tubes. Reinstall OEM caps and o-rings. • Remove steering lock from OEM bottom clamp and install on Champion’s bottom clamp. • Replacing the upper OEM bearing and race with the Champion supplied bearing and race, install Champion’s lower triple clamp to motorcycle reusing original hardware as removed. Torque bearing lock nut to 35 lb. ft. • Install fork tube covers to bottom clamp if supplied with OEM motorcycle. • Remove OEM nylon tube cover sliders from lower fork legs and replace with supplied sliders, if required for lower chrome covers on C models. See figure on the right. • Install Champion upper clamp with OEM washer and dome nut. Leave loose. • Slide forks up and into the upper clamp until top of extension is flush with top surface of clamp. • Torque dome nut to 75 lb. ft. • Ensure that fork tube extensions are flush with top of upper clamp. Torque upper 8mm bolts to 20 lb. ft and lower 10 mm clamp bolts to 30 lb. ft. • Install handle bars to upper clamp using OEM nut and flat washers. • Reinstall brake line holders to the lower triple clamp. • Reinstall all other OEM parts as removed. • Bleed brakes.

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Honda VTX 1300 Motorcycles All Models Trike Conversion Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 17-02-2011

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Removal of Original Parts Secure and raise the motorcycle 9 to 10 inches using a quality motorcycle lift. Remove the following from the vehicle. See OEM manual for detailed instructions. Items to be retained for reinstallation after modification are noted. · Rider’s Seat (to be re-installed without modification) · Passenger Seat (to be reinstalled without modification) NOTE: OEM front and rear seat mounting bolts and brackets to be retained and reused. · Left and right passenger foot rests. (to be re-installed later). · Mufflers (to be re-installed and relocated with minor modification) · Rear Fender (complete w/ sub frame and all attaching parts) · Swing Arm, Drive Shaft and Rear Wheel (complete w/ all attaching parts) · Rear brake Line to hard line in front of the Swing Arm. Core Return There are NO core return parts for this model Installation of Champion Trike Conversion Kit 3.1 Modify Frame and Passenger Footrests. a. Cut and remove passenger foot rest mount from OEM frame on both sides (left hand side picture shown) . Figure 1 b. Clean cut frame and paint black. c. Remove and secure Charcoal Canister. d. Cut and remove charcoal canister frame bracket. Figure 2 e. Clean cut frame and paint black f. Install supplied Canister/Regulator bracket with supplied hardware. Figure 3. Make sure the hoses/electrical wires are routed underneath the bracket as shown. Figure 4 Qty Description 2 3/8-24×1-3/4 hex head bolt 4 3/8 SAE flat washers 2 3/8-24 Nyloc nuts g. Install Canister and Regulator with supplied hardware. Figure 4 Qty Description 4 ¼-20×1-1/4 hex head bolt 8 ¼ SAE flat washers 4 1/4-20 Nyloc nuts

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