honda motorcycles 2005 vtx shadow steering lock

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Filed Under (Uncategorized) by admin on 05-10-2011

TEERING GEAR/STEERING WHEEL REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Page 3 of 4 STEERING GEAR/STEERING WHEEL INSTALLATION PROCEDURES (Cont’d) 2. Center spiral cable. a. Turn the cable counterclockwise by hand until it becomes harder to turn. b. Then rotate the cable clockwise about 2.5 or 3 turns to align the marks. (See Fig. 4) 3. Install the steering wheel. a. Align the matchmarks on the wheel and steering main shaft. b. Temporarily tighten the wheel set nut. c. Connect the spiral cable connector. 4. Bleed Power Steering System (when applicable). 5. Check steering wheel center point. 6. Torque steering wheel set nut. See the applicable vehicle’s repair manual for the torque specification. 7. Install and center steering wheel pad. NOTICE: Make sure the pad is centered and installed to the specified torque. If the pad has been dropped, or there are cracks, dents or other defects in the case or connector, replace the wheel pad with a new one. When installing the pad, take care that the wiring does not interfere with other parts and is not pinched between other parts. a) Connect the airbag wiring connector. b) Install the pad after confirming that torx screws are in the screw case. c) Using a torx socket, torque the screws to the specification in the vehicle’s Repair Manual. (See Fig. 5) d) Install the steering wheel lower cover

Honda VTX 1800 Motorcycles EZ-Steer Installation Manual


Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 16-02-2011

Honda VTX 1800 EZ-Steer Instruction Installation of the Champion EZ-Steer system is similar to the installation of the OEM triple clamps of your Honda VTX 1800 Motorcycle. We strongly recommend that you use your OEM service manual and follow the prescribed disassembly, installation and torque specifications (except where noted below) for the upper and lower clamp assembly. Recommended Procedures • Disconnect all wiring to headlight and remove headlight, windscreen (if so equipped) and brackets from motorcycle. • Remove handle bars from top clamp. • Remove brake caliper and brackets; disconnect all mounting points on brake lines. Secure calipers to frame being careful not to damage brake lines. • The wheel and fork tube assembly can be removed as one complete unit. • Remove steering lock fromOEM bottom clamp and install on Champion’s bottom clamp. • Replacing the upper OEM bearing and race with the Champion supplied bearing and race, install Champion’s lower triple clamp to motorcycle reusing original hardware as removed. Torque bearing lock nut to 35 lb. ft.. • Install covers to bottom forks if supplied with OEM motorcycle. • Install Champion upper clamp with OEM washer and dome nut. Leave loose. • Slide forks up and into the upper clamp until top of forks are flush with top surface of clamp. • Torque dome nut to 75 lb. ft.. • Ensure that fork tube extensions are flush with top of upper clamp. Torque lower 8mm bolts to 20 lb.ft. and upper 10 mm clamp bolts to 30 lb. ft.. • Install handle bars to upper clamp using OEM nut and flat washers. • Reinstall brake line holders to the lower triple clamp. • Reinstall all other OEM parts as removed. • Bleed brakes. • OEM windshield # 08R80-MCH-100 can be used on this kit

Motorcycle Derived Steering / Suspension Systems


Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 29-11-2010

1. Examine the handlebars and fork yokes. 2. Turn the steering from lock to lock with the steered wheel both on a turning plate and clear of the ground. Cont’d Reason for Rejection 1. A handlebar or fork yoke a. deformed b. fractured c. cracked d. excessively corroded e. clamps not tight, or any bolt loose or missing f. handgrips missing or not secure to handlebars g. handlebar flexible mounting excessively deteriorated. 2. a. any fouling or restriction of the free movement of the steering from lock to lock b. handlebar grip/s or handlebar mounted control/s have no clearance with any other part of the machine when the steering is placed on either full lock c. steering movement excessively stiff or rough Reason for Rejection 5 does not apply to fork gaiters or shrouds. . Cont’d Method of Inspection 3. Examine the steering damper. 4. Examine the steering head bearings. 5. Examine the front fork assembly. Cont’d Reason for Rejection 3. A steering damper a. insecure b. ineffective c. impairing the steering action. 4. Excessive free play in the steering head bearings. 5. A fork assembly component which is a. missing b. loose c. cracked d. excessively bent, misaligned, corroded, worn, or has excessive free play between the sliding members of the forks, the pivot bearings or bushes e. restricted in operation f. fouling

Tacoma Power Steering Pump Improving Power Steering Reservoir modification


Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 02-10-2011

For my SAS I decided to add hydraulic steering assist as it comes in real handy for rock crawling. I got the Redneck Ram setup from the folks at West Texas Off-road that includes rebuilding an earlier IFS steering box along with drilling and tapping the box for the included ram. One of the down sides of adding a ram is that it slows the steering down because the stock steering pump has to supply the added volume for the hydraulic ram. Another is that it creates a fluid volume change in the system reservoir that needs to be compensated for in some way. After doing some reading on the West Texas site about how to go about modifying a Saginaw pump and reading up on earlier Toyota pump mods for steering assist setups on the Pirate board, I decided to give it whirl and see what I could do about the Tacoma pump. Chuck Gardella was kind enough to supply me with a blown pump that I could rebuild and submit to my endless fiddling and tinkering. I plan to give him my pump in return when I get this one done and installed. You need to do something to allow for more room in the reservoir for the standard hydraulic ram assist setup so I decided to tackle the reservoir first. The reason you need the extra space is because the ram is unbalanced. That is there is a rod on one side of the cylinder and not on the other side so the volume of the fluid has to change in the system to account for the volume of the rod as it travels back and forth. I calculated the volume of the rod that I have at full stroke to be about 2 oz or so. This would equate to plus or minus up to 2 oz. in the pump reservoir. Well first off, it’s no wonder why so many folks boil their steering pumps over with heavy wheeling and have so many other steering problems. The stock power steering reservoir doesn’t even rate pint sized

Honda RC51 2000-2005 SBK Undertail Kit INSTALLATION


Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 22-11-2011

Carefully remove the tail section body work. Save all bolts, washers and plastic rivets for re-installation of tail. Disconnect and remove the brake light (with all mounting grommets and washers), license plate and turn signals, key lock (with clip) and move all wiring out of the cutting areas. Remove the two bolts at the rear end of the stock fender (inside glove box) to allow the end to hang down for cutting Using a “Dremel” tool or cutting disc (this can also be done using a sharp edged knife, but is not recommended), remove the plastic shown in the photos to the above and below. Your subframe may be different but the cutting position is the same on all years. Be sure to take your time cutting, so that you don’t cut away any more plastic than necessary Replace all bodywork with fasteners loosely installed, mount undertail,
notice at bottom of the tray there are 2 holes, mark and remove tray, then drill holes in battery box 6) Inset lock into undertail using stock lock mounting clip, make sure the lock is in the correct position with the lock cable arm to function
properly. Insert undertail left side first, then right side, be carefull not to crack or scratch undertail. Use your stock plastic screw rivets to hold undertail in place. Attach lock cable to lock, check movement, adjust if necessary. Tighten all hardware on tail section, attach seat. * After this modification your undertail is not returnable. Paint is not war-
rantied against paint chips, flaking or scratches from installation or rocks being thrown from tire into the tray.
6) *Install license plate brackets to back side of license plate as shown. Now hold license plate in desired location on undertail, carefully mark and drill holes, install using the two (2) sets of allen bolts and lock nuts

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