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Honda 400EX Hub installation instructions

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 20-12-2011

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Remove all contents from its packaging and verify that all parts are present and free from damage. You should have the following items: (2) wheel hubs (2) smaller tapered bearings (2) large tapered bearings (2) wheel bearing nuts (2) dust caps (2) inner bearing seals (6) M3 x .5 screws (2) cotter pins (2) inner bearing spacers 2. Completely remove the old hubs from your quad and clean the spindle and the surrounding areas. It is very important to keep the new bearings and seals clean during installation for long life. Be sure to remove the factory inner bearing spacers from the spindle and discard. They will not be used in re-assembly. 3. Pack your new Timken tapered wheel bearings with a liberal amount of high quality wheel bearing grease. A wheel bearing packer works best, however you can accomplish the task by placing the grease in the palm of your hand and manually working it in between the bearing rollers. We also recommend that you pack the area between the bearing races in the hub with grease for additional lubrication and protection against moisture. 4. Place the large wheel bearing (inner) into the hub and install the inner seal. The seal should bottom out against the step in the bore and the face should be flush with the hub. 5. Remove the brake rotors from your old hubs. Re-install the rotors on your new hubs and be sure to use medium strength Loctite on the threads. 6. Apply a light film of grease or oil to the large diameter of the spindle stud. Install the new o-ringed bearing spacer onto the spindle. 7. Apply a thin film of grease to the seal surface on the bearing spacer and the inside diameter of the seal to prevent the seal from running dry. Install the hub onto the spindle and slide the outer bearing over the spindle and install the new bearing nut furnished with your hubs. Do not use the factory nut or washer. 8. SETTING THE BEARING PRELOAD: It is first necessary to seat the bearing before setting the preload. This aligns the rollers and prevents the bearings from loosening after a short period of use. To seat the bearing, tighten the spindle nut while you rotate the hub until the hub becomes difficult to spin. With the bearing now seated, you must set the bearing preload. Preload means placing a small amount of force against the bearings to remove any clearance between the bearing race and the rollers. This is done by backing the nut off completely and re-tightening it with your fingers. Do not rotate the hub while setting the preload . If a hole in the spindle is not accessible for installation of the cotter pin, adjust the nut tighter to bring a hole into alignment. Install the cotter pin and bend the pin around the outside of the nut. Do not attempt to bend the pin toward you (over the end of the spindle) or it may rub on the inside of the dust cap.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON WHEEL BEARING REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION TOOL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 19-02-2011

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BEARING REMOVAL 1. Place the wheel vertically in a vise and protect the rim from being marred. NOTE See Figure 1 for the tool lubrication locations before using. 2. Assemble the remover tool. a. Install wheel bearing puller (1), (2) or (16) depending on the bearing I.D. See the service parts table for the size reference. Install the wheel bearing puller into the bearing by hand or use a rubber mallet ( not a hard-faced hammer) to push through the bearing I.D. Stop pushing on the bearing puller as soon as it has cleared the inside of the bearing race. There will be a slight click. b. Place main body puller (3) over bearing puller with the fingers of main body puller facing the wheel. Lightly oil all threads. c. Place the large brass washer (10) and nut (13) onto the puller and hand-tighten the nut until it stops at the top face of the bridge. 3. Remove the front wheel bearings. a. Apply a small amount of oil to the taper at the hex end of the expander dowel. Insert the expander dowel (7) through the other side of wheel bearings, and through the bearing puller. b. Install the washer (15 and nut (14) to the expander dowel and torque to 100 in-lbs (11.3 Nm) with a 11/16 inch wrench or socket while holding the other side of the expander dowel by reaching the opposite side of the wheel with a 3/8 inch hex key. c. Align the main body puller support fingers centered over the bearing to be removed. If main body puller will be directly on a finished chrome surface, protect the surface area. d. If resistance is felt with a torque wrench set at 40 ft- lbs (54.2 Nm) of torque, you will need to apply heat to the hub area surrounding the bearing. Prior to applying heat, place 2 to 3 temperature stickers (P/N 94146-10) around the circumference of the hub. Apply indirect heat using a heat gun. Do not exceed 210°F. With a 1-1/8 inch socket and torque wrench, turn the nut (13) until the bearing is pulled free from the wheel hub. e. Using a 3/8 in. hex key on an extension and torque wrench set on the expander dowel (7) and a 1-1/8 inch wrench. Turn the nut (13) until the bearing is free of the wheel hub. 4. Remove the wheel bearing spacer from the I.D. of the wheel hub. 5. Repeat steps 1 through 4 for the opposite bearing. NOTE Remove rear wheel belt sprocket before removing the bearings. 6. Rear wheel bearing removal is the same as steps 1 through 4 by using the correct size wheel bearing puller

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KTM Front Wheel Bearing Installation Manuals

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 31-01-2012

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1 Place motorcycle on a stand so that the front wheel is off the ground. 2 Using a 27mm socket remove the front axle nut. Using a 10mm socket, loosen the four front axle pinch bolts. Slide front axle out of forks and remove front wheel. 3 Insert a long punch (with a good square edge) into the center of the aluminum wheel bearing spacers and push up against the inner edge of the spacer on the opposite side of the wheel (Fig. 1). Using a hammer, tap the punch around the entire circumference of the spacer until it completely slides out of the bearing (Fig. 2). Turn the wheel over and remove the other spacer in the same way. 4 Use a long screwdriver or narrow pry bar and pry the seals out of each side of the wheel (Fig. 3). 5 Using snap ring pliers, remove the bearing retaining snap ring from the brake rotor side of the wheel. (Fig. 4) NOTE: 2003 – CURRENT MODELS USING # 16-092 KIT DO NOT USE THIS SNAP RING. 6 Insert a long punch (with a good square edge) into the center of the wheel bearing, and push up against the inner edge of the bearing on the opposite side of the wheel. Using a hammer, tap the punch around the entire circumference of the bearing until it completely slides out of the hub. Turn the wheel over and remove the other bearing in the same way. NOTE: It may be necessary to tap on the punch sideways at first to knock the center aluminum sleeve off center so that you are able to get the punch on the edge of the bearing. 7 Clean areas where bearings will be inserted back into hub and apply a thin coat of grease around the machined hub surface. Tap the bearing on the snap ring (if used, either side if not) side of the hub into the machined hub surface, making sure to keep it square with the hub as it goes in and only tap on the outer race of the bearing. Once you get the bearing flush with the outer edge of the hub, use a socket or piece of pipe that is just smaller than the outside diameter of the bearing to finish tapping the bearing into the hub. (Fig. 5) 8 Install the bearing retainer snap ring (if used) into the groove machined in the hub, and then tap the seal in place over the snap ring with the spring on the seal in towards the center of the wheel. Tap in the aluminum spacer in the center of the seal.

KTM Rear Wheel Bearing Installation and REMOVAL

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 23-01-2012

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1 Insert a long punch (with a good square edge) into the center of the aluminum wheel bearing spacers and push up against the inner edge of the spacer on the opposite side of the wheel (Fig. 1). 2 Using a hammer, tap the punch around the entire circumference of the spacer until it completely slides out of the bearing (Fig. 2). Turn the wheel over and remove the other spacer in the same way. 3 Use a long screwdriver or narrow pry bar and pry the seals out of each side of the wheel (Fig. 3). 4 Using snap ring pliers, remove the bearing retaining snap ring from either the disc or sprocket side of the wheel (Fig. 4). 5 Insert a long punch (with a good square edge) into the center of the wheel bearing, and push up against the inner edge of the bearing on the opposite side of the wheel. Using a hammer, tap the punch around the entire circumference of the bearing until it completely slides out of the hub. Turn the wheel over and remove the other bearing in the same way. NOTE: It may be necessary to tap on the punch sideways at first to knock the center aluminum sleeve off center so that you are able to get the punch on the edge of the bearing. 6 Clean areas where bearings will be inserted back into hub and apply a thin coat of grease around the machined hub surface. Tap the bearing on the snap ring side of the hub into the machined hub surface, making sure to keep it square with the hub as it goes in and only tap on the outer race of the bearing. Once you get the bearing flush with the outer edge of the hub, use a socket or piece of pipe that is just smaller than the outside diameter of the bearing to finish tapping the bearing into the hub. (Fig. 5)

AJS DISMANTLING AND REBUILDING FULL-WIDTH FRONT WHEEL HUBS INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (AJS) by admin on 31-10-2010

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Removal of the Brake-side Bearing Cup The bearing cup (5) is located endwise by a circlip (1), and between the cup and circlip arc an oil-seal retaining washer (4), oil seal (3), and oil-seal cup washer (2) Before these parts can be removed from the hub the bearing cup must be moved inwards for a very short distance (3/16-inch) so that the circlip can be withdrawn. (n) Gently heat the hub shell. (i) Place a soft metal rod (e.g. brass) against the oil-seal cup washer (2) and apply pressure with a hand press or hammer blows. It is only necessary to move the bearing cup (5) inwards about 1/16-inch. (j) Extract the circlip by inserting a narrow pen-knife blade under one end of the circlip; lift it upwards and outwards and prise the clip out of its groove. (k) Remove the oil-seal cup washer (2), oil seal (3) and oil-seal retaining washer (4). They can be hooked out with the shank of a small and narrow screw­ driver, (l) The bearing cup can now be ejected by placing a suitable rod of soft metal (e.g. brass) in the hub tunnel from the right-hand side and pressing it — with a press or hammer blows — against the bearing cup until the cup is forced out of the bearing. This must be done with care so that the cup remains square with the housing. Reassembly To facilitate replacement of the bearing cups gently heat the hub shell. Just too hot to hold is about the right temperature. (a) Place the brake-side bearing cup squarely in the hub shell — the open end faces inwards — and press it into the hub tunnel A short length of brass rod, slightly less than the outside dia­ meter of the cup, should be interposed between the cup and ram of the press, or hammer head. Press the cup in until the outer face is approximately half-an-inch below the mouth of the hub tunnel. This will allow sufficient room to allow [he circlip to be inserted into its groove. (b) Refit in the following order: oil-seal retaining washer (4), oil seal (3), oil-seal cup washer (2). (c) The circlip can now be replaced. In the interest of reliability use a new circlip, for it is possible that the existing circlip was strained when it was re­ moved. (d) Insert into the hub tunnel from the right-hand side a brass rod of suitable length, and press the bearing cup firmly against the circlip. (e) Before inserting the spindle complete with the roller races, pack them with clean and fresh grease of a suitable grade (Mobilgrease No. 4. Castrolease heavy, Energrease C3, Esso Pressure Gun Grease. Shelf Retinax Grease CD or A). (0 Insert the spindle into the hub. (g) Place the right-hand side bearing cup in the hub tunnel; the open end faces inwards, It may be necessary to re-heat the hub to allow the cup to go into position without difficulty. (h) Press the cup into position, but do not force it fully home, leave some end play on the spindle. (i) Refit in the following order: oil-seal retaining washer (6), oil-seal (7) and oil-seal cup washer (8). (j) Screw into the hub the adjusting sleeve (9) until it comes into contact with the bearing cup (5)

AJS WHEEL BEARING ADJUSTMENT

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Filed Under (AJS) by admin on 31-10-2010

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Front Wheel (a) With the machine on the centre stand, disconnect the brake cable and remove the wheel. (b) Slacken the circular lock-nut (10). (c) Turn the adjusting sleeve (9) clockwise until all the slackness is just taken up. (d) Turn the adjusting sleeve (9) anticlockwise one-half a turn. It will now be necessary to drive the bearing back against the sleeve and this is done by:— (e) placing the wheel under a press and pressing the end of the spindle (on the brake-side) downwards. or: (f) jarring the end of the spindle on the brake-side with a weighty lead hammer. Whichever method is used the greatest of care must be exercised otherwise the bearing may be damaged, (g) Tighten the circular lock-nut (10). Hold the sleeve in position while this is being done otherwise the sleeve may move and the adjustment will be in- correct. (h) Refit the wheel and check for end-float. Front Wheel Bearing Assembly T www.ajs-matchles s.info ISSUED BY A·J·S MOTOR CYCLES, LONDON, S.E.18. Rear Wheel Bearing Assembly for Quickly Detachable Wheels Rear Wheel (a) Disconnect the speedometer driving cable. (b) Remove the lock-nut (16) which secures the speedometer-drive gear­ box in position. (c) Remove the wheel. (d) Grasp the speedometer-drive gearbox (15) with the fingers and firmly pull it away from the hub. (e) Proceed as described in the instructions for the front wheel (b) to (d). Note that in the illustrations for the rear wheel the circular lock-nut is (13) and the adjusting sleeve is (14), It will now be necessary to drive the bearing back against the sleeve and this is done in the following manner: Quickly Detachable Wheels (f) place the wheel under a press, brake- side uppermost, and apply pressure to the oil-seal distance piece (6), or; (g) jarr the end of the oil-seal distance piece (6) with a weighty lead hammer. Whichever method is used the greatest of care must be exercised otherwise the bearing may be damaged. Wheels for Rigid-Frame Models (h) Remove the brake-side spindle nut (19), washer (18), fork-end spacer (17), outer spacer (20), and the brake plate (21). (i) Place the wheel, brake-side uppermost. under a press and apply pressure to the oil-seal distance piece (6). or; (j) jarr the end of the oil-seal distance piece (6) with a weighty lead hammer. Whichever method is used the greatest of care must be exercised otherwise the bearing may be damaged. All Rear Wheels (k) Refit the speedometer-drive gearbox. It is pushed on. The two dogs must engage with the slots in the end-face of the adjusting sleeve. (l) Refit the lock nut (16). (m) Refit the wheel into the frame and check for end-float. (n) Tighten the lock-nut (16) and refit the speedometer driving cable

HARLEY DAVIDSON FRONT FORK STEM BOLT CHROME COVER KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 17-04-2011

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INSTALLATION 1. See Figure 1. Remove stock front fork stem bolt and washer (if equipped). 2. Install front fork stem bolt (2) and washer (3) from this kit. Properly adjust fork stem bearings. Improper adjustments affect stability and handling, which could result in death or serious injury. (00301a) 3. Perform the steering head bearing adjustment procedure following the instructions in the service manual. 4. Apply a small amount of LOCTITE 243 Threadlocker and Sealant (Blue) (purchased separately) to the threaded stud inside the chrome cover (1). 5. Install chrome cover to fork stem bolt. Tighten cover hand- tight. Do not over-tighten. SERVICE PARTS 1 2 3 is06245 Figure 1. Service Parts: Upper Fork Bracket Bolt Cover Kit (Typical Bracket Shown) Table 1. Kit Contents Part Number Description (Quantity) Item 45668-90 Cover, front fork stem bolt chrome 1 4453 Bolt, 5/8-18 x 1.0 inch 2 6655 Washer, 5/8 inch

HARLEY DAVIDSON ENGINE/TRANSMISSION INTERFACE AND TOP COVER INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 19-04-2011

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INSTALLATION Perform this installation when the engine is cool. Working on or near the exhaust system when the engine is hot could result in severe burns. (00311a) 1. Refer to the Owner’s Manual and follow the instructions given to remove the maxi-fuse. 1 4 3 2 is03621 1. Transmission top cover screw (3) 2. Upper and lower rear bearing housing screw (2) 3. Upper front bearing housing screw 4. Lower front bearing housing screw Figure 1. Interface Cover Installation 2. See Figure 1. Remove the two rear bearing housing screws (2) from the side of the transmission case. 3. Remove the oil level dipstick from the oil spout on the side of the transmission housing, wipe off and set it aside for later installation. NOTE Insert a clean shop rag into the oil spout opening while the dipstick is not installed. With the dipstick removed, small parts or other foreign material could fall into the transmission, leading to equipment damage or malfunction. 4. See Figure 2. Obtain the rear interface mounting bracket (1) from the kit. 5. Apply a few drops of Loctite 243 (Blue) to the threads of the two bearing housing screws removed in Step 2. Install the rear interface mounting bracket to the bearing housing with the screws, and tighten to 13-18 ft-lbs (17.6-24.4 Nm) . 6. See Figure 1. Remove the upper front bearing housing screw (3) from the side of the transmission case. Loosen the lower front bearing housing screw (4). 7. See Figure 2. Obtain the front interface mounting bracket (2) from the kit. 8. Apply a few drops of Loctite 243 (Blue) to the threads of the upper front bearing housing screw removed in Step 6. Hook the slot in the front interface mounting bracket under the loosened lower screw head. Install the bracket to the bearing housing with the upper screw, and tighten both screws to 13-18 ft-lbs (17.6-24.4 Nm) . 9. See Figure 1. Remove and retain the three socket head cap screws (1) that fasten the right side and left front corner of the transmission cover. 10. Remove and retain the screw fastening the rear brake line P-clamp to the rear fork bracket. 11. See Figure 2. Obtain the right rear interface cover (3), two chrome 1/4-20 screws (6) and two flat washers (7) from the kit. 12. From the rear of the motorcycle, bring the right rear interface cover into position behind the rear exhaust pipe, over the bearing housing. The hole in the top surface of the cover should be positioned over the right rear transmission top cover hole. 13. Loosely fasten the interface cover to the rear interface mounting bracket with the two chrome screws and flat washers. 14. Obtain the chrome top interface cover (4) from the kit. 15. Position the top interface cover over the transmission top cover, overlapping the tab at the top front of the chrome right rear interface cover

Honda Motorcycle Na vigation Kit

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 28-11-2010

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Honda Motorcycle Na vigation Kit Honda Motorcycle Navigation Kit G e n e r i c A c c e s s o r i e s 2 0 0 8 For your peace of mind Honda Genuine Accessories are carefully designed, researched and stringently test ed tot he highest standards. And since they’re all Honda approved you’llknowthat they’rejustastoughand well made as your Honda motorcycle. Please Note -All prices quoted are correct at time of printing and are subject to change without prior notice. y e a r w a r r a n t y GENUINE ACCESSORIES Honda Motorcycle Navigation Kit Model Part Number Description RRP Remarks NAKED CBF 600 08A 40MER800B CONTAINSNAVI GAT ION UNIT COMPONENT, CONTROLLER, £549.99 EARPHONE, MANUAL, MCC AR KIT, UN I TAT TACHM ENT KIT, BATTERY CBF 600 08A 40MER800A CONTAINSNAVI GAT ION UNIT COMPONENT, CONTROLLER, £549.99 EARPHONE, MANUAL, MCC AR KIT, UN I TAT TACHM ENT KIT, BATTERY ON/OFF XL700V 08A 40MFF800 * CONTAINS NA VI GAT ION UNIT COMPONENT, £549.99 Must be combined with quartet harness CONTROLLER, EARPH ONE, MANUAL, 08A 30MFF800 MCCAR KIT, UNI TAT TACH ME NT KIT, BATTERY XL 1000V 08A 40MBT800 CONTAINSNAVI GAT ION UNIT COMPONENT, £549.99 Must be combined with quartet harness CONTROLLER, EAR PH ONE, MANUAL, 08A 30MBT800 MCCAR KIT, UNI TAT TACH ME NT KIT, BATTERY TOURERS/SPORT TOUR ERS DN-01 08A 40MEH800 CONTAINSNAVI GAT ION UNIT COMPONENT, CONTROLLER, EARPHONE, £549.99 Must be combined with quartet harness MANUAL, MC CAR KIT, UNI TAT TACH MEN T KIT, AND BATTERY -CONTAINS 08A 30MEW800 ADDITIONALSTE ERIN G HANDLE C LAMPS FORV ISU AL INTE GRAT ION OF THE COMPONENT NT700V 08A 40MEW800 CONTAINSNAVI GAT ION UNIT COMPONENT, CONTROLLER, EARPHONE, £549.99 Must be combined with quartet harness MANUAL, MC CAR KIT, UNI TAT TACH MEN T KIT, BATTERY

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Steering Stem Nut Installation Instructions & Owners Manual

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 26-11-2010

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Sport Bike Damper Kit Installation Instructions DISCLAIMER: All GPR Sport Bike damper kits are manufactured to be used ONLY w/ the stock top triple clamp and frame. If either is modded, aftermarket or crash damaged, the kit will not install properly and GPR will not be held responsible for the consequences of improper installation due to this or any other improper mounting or modifying. The provided instructions must be followed precisely, as failure to do so can result in the GPR damper kit being installed incorrectly. An improper installation may lead to a variety of undesirable steering problems. Please take your time and carefully follow the installation instructions. As always, give us a call if you have any questions, we’re more than happy to assist you in getting the damper kit mounted on your bike properly 1. Remove the stock Steering Stem Nut (SSN) and washer from the stock top triple clamp steering stem. Carefully set the stock nut aside, as you may be using it later. Bikes requiring a specific GPR SSN to replace the stock SSN are listed at the end of this installation sheet. If your bike is on the chart, throw you stock SSN in the toolbox along w/ the washer, as you may need it at a later date if for any reason you need to remove the GPR kit from your bike. Stock SSN’s that are either ‘domed’ at the top or ‘flanged’ at the bottom will definitely NOT work, may lead to problems and should NOT be reinstalled during the baseplate installation. See #2 below for further instructions about both SSN/Steering stem and arm clearance issues 2. With the stock SSN and washer removed, place the GPR Baseplate over the steering stem on the top triple clamp and reinstall either the stock SSN or the GPR SSN provided. Torque SSN down to the recommended specs as per the owner’s manual for your particular bikes make and model. NEVER reinstall the stock washer that came on the bike! The baseplate is now your new washer. If you do accidentally use the stock washer, the arm on the stabilizer will most likely ‘rub’ on the nut. It will be too high, potentially locking the steering and handlebars, thus making your bike un steerable and unridable. DO NOT ride your bike until all installation steps have been completed and you can visually verify that there is clearance between the arm of the stabilizer and the steering stem and/or SSN. Once the installation is complete, at the #1 setting you

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