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Harley Davidson Honing Plates Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 25-04-2012

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Honing Plate Kits are available for the Harley Davidson Shovel Head, Evolution and Twin-Cam engines. Kits are supplied with a Base Plate, which features side clamping of the spigot area on the Jug to address the recurring problem of spigot deflection during honing. This is especially prevalent in large-bore applications and will eliminate additional clearance that would be necessary to achieve correct piston to cylinder wall clearance. The Plate allows the user to hone straight, round bores through the full length of the Jug. The Plate also has tapped holes in the bottom surface to facilitate clamping onto most honing machines. The Shovel/Evolution Kit is supplied with the above Base Plate machined with a dual bolt pattern to accept both Shovel Head and Evolution Jugs. Two Honing Plates are included, to accommodate each engine type. A Hardware Kit containing all the fasteners needed to simulate the assembled engine condition for both setups is also included. The Twin-Cam Kit is supplied with the above Base Plate machined with the bolt pattern to accept the Twin-Cam Jug and one Honing Plate. A Hardware Kit containing all the fasteners needed to simulate the assembled engine condition is also included.

8950 and 8960 Series High Performance Tire Changer Operation Manual

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 23-11-2010

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GENERAL CAUTIONS A. DURING THE USE AND MAINTENANCE OF THE MACHINE IT IS MANDATORY TO COMPLY WITH ALL LAWS AND REGULATIONS FOR ACCIDENT PREVEN- TION. B. THE ELECTRICAL POWER SOURCE MUST HAVE A GROUND CABLE AND THE GROUND CABLE OF THE MACHINE MUST BE CONNECTED TO THE GROUND CABLE OF THE POWER SOURCE. C. BEFORE ANY MAINTENANCE OR REPAIRS ARE ACCOMPLISHED THE MACHINE MUST BE DISCONNECTED FROM THE AIR AND ELECTRICAL SUPPLY. D. NEVER WEAR TIES, CHAINS OR OTHER LOOSE ARTICLES WHEN USING, MAINTAINING OR REPAIRING THE MACHINE. LONG HAIR IS ALSO DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE KEPT UNDER A HAT. THE USER MUST WEAR PROPER SAFETY ATTIRE – GLOVES, SAFETY SHOES AND GLASSES. 2.0 INSTALLATION Your new JBC 8950 or 8960 Series Tire Changer requires a simple installation procedure requiring only a few moments. Follow these instructions carefully to insure proper and safe operation. The Tire Changer is delivered mounted to a wooden skid. Remove tire changer from its mounts carefully, taking care to avoid any back strain. Place Changer where proper operation will be unobstructed to all sides. Install the machine in a covered and dry place. 2.0.1 Models with SRA attached (8955IN, 8965IN) Once placed in the desired location the tire changer must be bolted to the floor using only the rear two mounting holes. Mounting anchors are provided with those machines with a Safety Restraint Arm. Tire Changer must be anchored to concrete floor if equipped with a “Safety Restraint Arm” BUILDING ELECTRICAL INSTALLATION MUST BE MADE BY A LICENSED ELECTRICIAN. Check that the electrical specifications of the power source are the same of the machine. The machine uses 110v, 60 hz, single phase 20 amp source. Electric specifications are clearly marked on a label at the rear of the machine. FAILURE TO PROVIDE PROPER ELECTRICAL SUPPLY AND GROUNDING WILL CREATE A SHOCK HAZARD TO THE OPERATOR

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Aermacchi IHRO1 Machine Specifications

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Filed Under (Aermacchi) by admin on 13-11-2010

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1. IHRO 1 caters for single cylinder thoroughbred Grand Prix racing motorcycles constructed during the period 1945-1972 inclusive, for the specific purpose of participation in Grand Prix competition during that era. Maximum capacity for any machine is 500cc, and wherever possible it is intended to run three classes, for machines up to 250cc, 350cc and 500cc. 2. Motorcycles must be presented in original, period condition, with no external updating. Period appearance seats, fuel tanks and fairings (if fitted) must be used. No external changes may be made to the appearance of any machine unless it can be proved that such a change was made in the period. Modern safety fixtures required by some federations and modifications mentioned in this document are not covered by this ruling. 3. No disc brakes are allowed. Drum brakes only may be used. 4. No alloy/magnesium wheels are allowed. Wire wheels only may be used. 5. All machines must have twin shock rear suspension: No monoshocks except Vincent Grey Flash. Suspension units must resemble period components, i.e. no external gas reservoirs etc. 6. All frames and swinging arms must conform exactly to period appearance; no box section swinging arms allowed unless fitted by the manufacturer to that machine in the period. 7. The maximum permitted rim width on either wheel is WM3. 8. No slick tyres, hand cut slicks or modern racing tyres designated by the manufacturer as being exclusively for wet weather use are permitted. Only the following rear tyres may be fitted. Any 19″ tyre. The following 18″ tyres, Dunlop 3.50×18, 3.50/3.25×18 KR124 and KR124A, Avon AM22 110/80×18 Rear Fitment and Avon AM18 120×18 9. Choice of carburettor is free, provided that this is of a period type cylindrical slide model, albeit of a later manufacture. Flat slide instruments are not permitted with the exception of Gardner carburettors. Fuel injection is not permitted except if it can be proved that particular motorcycle ran between 1945-72 with the same type of injection system fitted. A Wal Philips injector is classified under this heading. 10. The type of fuel used must conform to the ACU and FIM’s current fuel regulations for 100LL Avgas at 102 MON. See full specifications below. All machines must finish a race with a minimum of 2 litres of fuel in the tank to allow a sample to be taken for analysis. 11. The use of belt primary drives is encouraged.

1945-1957 AJS Pitmans Installaiton Manual

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Filed Under (AJS) by admin on 31-10-2010

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AN A.J.S. O.H.V. single is easy to handle, and even the absolute novice quickly acquires confidence in the saddle. Beware, however, that you do not indulge in big throttle openings until you have had ample road experience. Also do not forget to digest the Highway Code. FIG. 1. A FLEXIBLE AND FAST TOURER WITH CLEAN LINES AND MECHANICAL QUIETNESS – THE 1957 MODEL 18S The 500 c.c. A.J.S. model shown is similar to the 350 c.c. model 16MS. Both models have snappy push rod O.H.V. engines with light-alloy cylinder heads, “Monobloc” carburettors, hairpin valve-springs, and automatic-ignition control. Their specification includes: “Teledraulic” front forks, Girling rear-suspension units, a quickly detachable rear wheel, die-cast light-alloy hubs, a deep secondary-chain guard, a new A.M.C. four- speed gearbox, Lucas headlamp, twin pilot-lights, and other attractive features. * The A.J.S. engine and frame numbers required on Form R.F. 1/2 will be found on the near-side of the crankcase and the off-side of the saddle lug, or on the off-side of the front down-tube (later models). THE BOOK OF THE A.J.S. 1 Essential Preliminaries. Before you can legally ride on the road – (1) Insure against all third-party risks and obtain the vital “certificate of insurance.” With a new machine you cannot get this until the machine is licensed, and an insurance “cover note” must be obtained. If you have a valuable machine, you are advised to take out full comprehensive insurance. (2) Obtain the registration licence and registration book (Form R.F.I/2)* or renew the licence (Form R.F. I/A). (3) Obtain a three-monthly “provisional” or an annual driving licence (Form D.L.I).* (4) Fit a reliable speedometer if one is not fitted (not essential if machine registered prior to 1st Oct., 1937). (5) If you carry a pillion-passenger, see that he or she sits astride a proper pillion seat securely fixed to the machine (all “springers” have dualseats), and that the passenger holds a current annual or substantive driving licence for Group G if you are a “learner.” (6) If you are ineligible for an annual or substantive driving licence, attach “L” plates to the front and back of the machine. (7) If not already provided, fit a red reflector (1½ in. minimum diameter) vertically at the rear of the motor-cycle and, on a sidecar outfit, an additional red reflector and rear lamp at the rear of the sidecar and at the same height as those on the motor-cycle. (8) Use an ignition-suppression type sparking plug or terminal cover if the machine was registered for the first time after 1. st July, 1953. All the official forms referred to above may be obtained from any money-order post office. See also footnote **, with reference to Forms R.F, 1/A or R.F. 112. You are not eligible for a substantive driving licence for Group G unless you are 16 and have complied with one of these conditions- (a) You have held a licence (other than a provisional or Visitor’s licence authorizing the driving of vehicles of the class or description applied for within a period of ten years ending on the date of coming into force of the licence applied for. (b) You have passed the prescribed driving test (this includes a test passed while serving in H.M. Forces) during the said period of ten years

Yamaha 2005 R1 Bike Tech Sheet

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 18-01-2012

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Engine: Type: Liquid cooled, four stroke, transverse four cylinder, DOHC, 5 valves per cylinder. Displacement: 1000cc Year: 2005 Horsepower: 180hp Clutch: PM Exhaust: Vance & Hines Race Exhaust Mufflers: Vance & Hines Frame: Type: Stock Year: 2005 Swing Arm: Performance Machine Chromoly +4 Extended Shocks: Race Tech Modifications: Race Tech Tuned and Lowered. Forks: Stock lowered 2.5″ Rim: Performance Machine Contrast Cut Torque Size: 19″ X 3.0″ Finish: Contrast Cut Fender: None Tire: Dunlop Sportmax D208ZR 120/70ZR19 Brake: Dual Performance Machine 4 piston Radial Calipers Wheels Rear: Rim: Performance Machine Contrast Cut Torque Size: 18″ X 8.5″ Brake: Performance Machine 4 piston Radial Caliper Finish: Contrast Cut Tire: Dunlop Elite3 250/40/R18 Other Parts: Handlebars: Stock Foot Controls: Over Racing Seat: Stock Turn Signals F/R: Anything Extra? Mirrors: Performance Machine Torque chrome Mirrors 19″ FRONT WHEEL! Paint, Chrome, and other F/X’s: Colors: yellow/Black Type: Special Paint: AirTrix Industries The Painter: Chris Wood Powder Coating: A to Z Coatings

HARLEY DAVIDSON XLH 1200cc BIG BORE KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 06-03-2011

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Boring and Honing Procedures 1. Check again for burrs on cylinder gasket surfaces and remove burrs before performing Step 2. 2. Install original head and base gaskets, CYLINDER TORQUE PLATES (Part Number 33446-A) and TORQUE BOLTS (Part Number 33446-4). Tighten TORQUE BOLTS following tightening procedure given in the INSTALLATION, CYLINDER HEAD procedure in the ENGINE section of the Service Manual. NOTE Torque plates, properly tightened and installed with gaskets, simulate engine operating conditions. Measurements will vary as much as 0.001 inch without torque plate. 3. The cylinder must be bored with gaskets and torque plates attached. Bore the cylinder to 0.003 inch under the desired finish size. 1 WARNING CAUTION CAUTION 1 WARNING Kit Number 4. Hone the cylinder to its finished size (See Figure 1) using a 280 grit rigid hone followed by a 240 grit flexible ball hone. Honing must be done with torque plates attached. All honing must be done from the bottom (crankcase) end of the cylinder. Work for a 60 degree crosshatch pattern. 5. See Figure 1. After machining and honing, chamfer the bottom edge of the cylinder liner. the chamfer provides a beveled surface for easier installation of the cylinder over the piston rings. Break leading edge of liner to a flat surface. The bottom edge of the liner will be somewhat sharp after machining. This sharp edge could easily be damaged during installation of the cylinder. Piston Installation The 1200cc pistons have an arrow on the top of the piston. This arrow must face the front of the engine when piston is installed. There is no front cylinder piston or rear cylinder piston. New pistons can be installed in either cylinder. Check piston rings for proper side clearance and end gap (See XLH Service Manual). Be sure end gaps of adjacent rings are installed 90 degrees apart. Assembly Follow assembly and torque specifications given in the ENGINE section of the applicable Service Manual. Replace original gaskets, O-rings and seals with new components furnished in kit. NOTE Push rod covers on 1991 and later models are one-piece and the correct O-rings are as follows: Bottom – Part Number 17944-89 Upper – Part Number 11190 Engine Break In For the first 500 miles, to wear-in critical parts, observe these few simple driving rules: During the first 50 miles, keep the engine speed below 2500 RPM in any gear. Up to 500 miles, vary the engine speed, avoiding any steady speed for long distances. Engine speed up to 3000 RPM is permissible in any gear. Avoid fast starts at wide open throttle. Drive slowly until engine warms up. Avoid running the engine at extremely low RPM in higher gears. 2 of 3 -J00001 1200cc CYLINDER FINAL BORE SIZE AFTER HONING STANDARD BORE DIAMETER 3.4980 inch + 0.0002 inch Figure 1. Bottom Edge of Cylinder Liner Chamfer i04852 Break Edge to Flat Surface

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2006 King Cobra Service Procedure

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Filed Under (Cobra) by admin on 10-11-2010

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Cobra CX50 SR is a close-tolerance high performance machine and break- in time is very important for maximum life and performance. The CX50 SR can be ridden hard after the first ½ hour break-in time but it is recommended that no adjustments are made to the carburetion or suspension until the full 8 hours of bike break-in has elapsed. Also, after the engine, transmission, and drive train have been broken-in for the full 8 hours, the bike will be faster! Use a fuel / oil mixture of 32:1 for the full 8 hour break-in period. Be sure to use high-octane pump gas, with Cobra’s specially formulated Cobra Venom 2-cycle Race Oil . (Part # MCMUOL02) CAUTION: Failure to use proper fuel, oil, or fuel/oil mixture may result in premature engine wear or damage to the machine. Adhering to the following break-in schedule will result in long lasting high performance machine. • Start bike on stand • First 5 minute period, operate the bike on the stand with a combination of idle and high RPM operation. (avoid prolonged high RPM but spin the rear wheel good at least once or twice per minute) • Allow bike to cool • Ride for 15 minutes maximum (avoid prolonged high RPM operation and avoid abusing the clutch with throttle blipping. • Cool and inspect bike for loose fasteners. • Next ½ hour of operation, avoid prolonged operation at Wide Open Throttle. • After 1 hour of operation o Check for loose bolts and nuts on the bike and retighten as necessary (proper toque values are listed under Specifications). o Clean the carburetor bowl. o Change the transmission / clutch lubricant. • After 8 hours of operation o Change the fork oil. o Have a Certified Cobra Mechanic change the shock oil. • Your bike is now ready for the highest level of competition! NOTE: During break-in the bike will likely lose some engine coolant through the radiator overflow hose. Losing up to 4 oz (120 ml, ½ cup) is normal. Proper coolant level will cover the top of the radiator cores. Removing the radiator cap and looking inside is the only way to check the coolant level. 8
Never open the radiator cap of a machine that has a hot or warm engine or one that has recently been ridden. Burning and scalding could occur. CAUTION: It is important that the radiator cap is installed correctly and completely otherwise engine damage could occur. Starting Procedure Before starting the machine inspect the following: • Check for proper tire pressure in both tires. • Observe the chain tension and adjust if necessary. • Observe the coolant level and fill if necessary. • Verify that the chain rollers and sliders do not have improper wear. • Verify that the handlebars are tight. • Check the throttle for smooth operation and that it ‘clacks’ shut properly. • Check for loose bolts and nuts, and re-torque as necessary. • Verify that the air filter is clean and properly saturated with oil. • Insure that the fuel tank contains an adequate volume of fuel / oil mixture to complete the distance required. (High octane pump gas with Cobra’s specially formulated Cobra Venom 2-cycle Race Oil ) • Turn the fuel on by rotating the fuel petcock knob to the vertically downward position (reserve position is horizontally forward) CAUTION: For best results from your Cobra Motorcycle use only the recommended fuels. Testing has shown that most ‘race’ fuels actually degrade performance. Always wear a helmet and other protective riding gear. When your pre-ride inspection is complete the bike may be started. For a cold engine follow this procedure. 1. Place the motorcycle on a stand of sufficient strength that positions the motorcycle in a level upright position with the rear wheel off the ground. 2. Pull up the choke knob and turn it to lock it. 3. Kick start the engine. 4. Rev the engine in short spurts, turning the throttle no more than 1/4 open until the engine will run without the choke.

MACHINE SPECIFICATION FOR 115cc (UNDERBONE) (4-stroke horizontal layout engine)

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 12-12-2010

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(This is for clarification only. Other parts not listed in Art. 2.5 & 2.6 can be altered or replaced. Change of specification means modification, changes or removal of the parts.) 2.6.1 Change of compression ratio is allowed. 2.6.2 Setting of carburetor, attachment or size change of air funnel. 2.6.3 Inlet opening of fuel tank for fuel charge may be modified but cannot be relocated. 2.6.4 Change of fuel pipe and fuel cork. 2.6.5 Change of exhaust pipe and muffler, but must have silencer. 2.6.6 Material of clutch discs and specifications of spring. Hand clutch is allowed. 2.6.7 Gear ratios are free. 2.6.8 Starting device and parts relative to this device may be removed. 2.6.9 Modification or removal of air cleaner box, wire harness and control wires. 2.6.10 Removal of speedometer (including meter gearbox and cable.) 2.6.11 Removal of drive chain case and cover. Change of drive chain is allowed. 2.6.12 Change of final gear ratio is allowed. 2.6.13 Attachment of bead stopper and balance weight to tyre. 2.6.14 Modification and change of rear brake part is allowed. 2.6.15 Frame body may be strengthened. 2.6.16 Modification and change to brackets and pedals including footrest. 2.6.17 Front suspension unit must remain as originally produced by the manufacturer. However, the following internal parts of the fork can be modified: Shims, hydraulic piston, oil passages, springs and spacers. 2.6.18 Attachment of stabilizer to strengthen or reinforcing rear swing arm is allowed. 2.6.19 Removal of dust seals. 2.6.20 Rear suspension unit must remain as originally produced by the manufacturer. However rear suspension unit is free. The rear linkage must remain as originally produced by the manufacturer. 2.6.21 Handle bars, clutch and front brake lever may be changed by an after market copy. Clutch springs may be changed. 2.6.22 Steering dampers may be fitted. They must not act in any way as a steering lock limiting device. 2.6.23 Materials of streamlining and material of seat cowling. (However, expensive materials such as carbon fibre and kevlar are not allowed). 2.6.24 Removal of rear mudguard and side cover. Front mudguard may be cut but not less than 6 inches from the front fork on original part. 2.6.25 All lubricants are free 2.6.26 Adjusting and polishing any parts are allowed. Adjusting is defined as : “To select each part or assembly complete with-in the limit of single or total tolerance” (i.e. that of valve clearance, ignition timing etc.) 2.6.27 Cutting unnecessary stays is

HONDA 420 RANCHER 2×4/4×4 2007-2009 CLUTCH KIT INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 22-12-2011

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Remove key from the ignition switch. Remove the side panels from both sides. Remove both foot wells. 2. Drain coolant. Remove the oil drain plug from the motor; if you carefully drain it into a clean container you should be able to reuse it. 3. Disconnect shift motor (on electric shift models only). Remove coolant hoses. 4. Remove the bolts that mount the front differential to the frame, no other parts need to be removed. Carefully slide the front differential towards the front of the machine; you might need to lift up slightly to get the differential to move. Remove the drive shaft. Remove o-ring on output shaft (on motor). 5. Remove the fuel pump. 6. Loosen the front crankcase cover bolts, keep track of each bolt length and location. Slowly remove the crankcase cover. Carefully watch for o-ring shims and dowel pins that may fall out. 7. Unstake the nut holding the clutch on and remove nut. Using Honda tool #07933-HB3000A thread the large part of the tool into the center of the clutch. Tighten the center bolt on the tool while holding the large part of the tool with a wrench. This will pull the clutch off the machine. Place the clutch on a clean work surface. EPI performance.com
8. Using the c-clamps push down slightly on the outside cover and remove the four e-clips. Keeping track of which way they come off, remove the round metal plates one at a time. This will allow you to see the complete spring. Remove one end of each spring using a spring tool or needle nose pliers and then remove springs. Install the EPI springs by inserting the spring into the outer edge first. Using a spring tool or pliers (45 degree bent pliers work well) pull on the spring and insert the end into the hole. Install the metal plates and the e-clips. If you can’t get the plates to sit flat make sure each clutch arm is flat against the bottom plate of the clutch. Occasionally when you put the springs on, the clutch arms will pop up. Slide the clutch into the machine. The Sprague clutch is marked “outside” when installing make sure this is facing out. Torque clutch nut to 87 ft/lbs. 9. Clean the gasket surface on the motor and on the cover. Put a thin layer of Honda Bond or Yamabond semi-drying liquid gasket (or something similar as long as it is semi-drying) on the crankcase cover. Carefully install crankcase cover, do not force cover on. Torque bolts to 9 ft/lbs. 10. Install the fuel pump. 11. Install the o-ring on the output shaft (on motor) and install the drive shaft. Carefully slide the front differential back into place and mount to the frame. Install the coolant hoses. Refill your engine coolant to the proper level according to your owner’s manual. 12. Install the oil drain plug. Refill your engine to the proper level according to your owner’s manual. You can reuse your oil if it is clean and was drained into a clean container. Only use manufactures recommended oil. 13. Be sure to double check coolant and oil levels and to look for any leaks after the machine has run for a few minutes. 14. Go out and ride your machine. If your performance doesn’t seem right double check to make sure everything has been done properly. 15. EPI is constantly testing our products. Sometimes there is a need to contact the user with new technical information. To ensure that you are receiving this information visit our web site EPIperformance.com to register your clutch kit.

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2007 King 50 Specifications, Owners Parts, Service Tuning

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Filed Under (Cobra) by admin on 03-12-2010

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Use a fuel / oil mixture of 32:1 for the full 8 hour break-in period. Be sure to use high-octane pump gas, with Cobra’s specially formulated Cobra Venom 2-cycle Race Oil . (Part # MCMUOL02) CAUTION: Failure to use proper fuel, oil, or fuel/oil mixture may result in premature engine wear or damage to the machine. Adhering to the following break-in schedule will result in long lasting high performance machine. • Start bike on stand • First 5 minute period, operate the bike on the stand with a combination of idle and high RPM operation. (avoid prolonged high RPM but spin the rear wheel good at least once or twice per minute) • Allow bike to cool • Ride for 15 minutes maximum (avoid prolonged high RPM operation and avoid abusing the clutch with throttle blipping. • Cool and inspect bike for loose fasteners. • Next ½ hour of operation, avoid prolonged operation at Wide Open Throttle. • After 1 hour of operation o Check for loose bolts and nuts on the bike and retighten as necessary (proper toque values are listed under Specifications). o Clean the carburetor bowl. o Change the transmission / clutch lubricant. • After 8 hours of operation o Change the fork oil. o Have a Certified Cobra Mechanic change the shock oil. • Your bike is now ready for the highest level of competition! NOTE: During break-in the bike will likely lose some engine coolant through the radiator overflow hose. Losing up to 4 oz (120 ml, ½ cup) is normal. Proper coolant level will cover the top of the radiator cores. Removing the radiator cap and looking inside is the only way to check the coolant level. 8 Never open the radiator cap of a machine that has a hot or warm engine or one that has recently been ridden. Burning and scalding could occur. CAUTION: It is important that the radiator cap is installed correctly and completely otherwise engine damage could occur. Starting Procedure Before starting the machine inspect the following: • Check for proper tire pressure in both tires. • Observe the chain tension and adjust if necessary. • Observe the coolant level and fill if necessary. • Verify that the chain rollers and sliders do not have improper wear. • Verify that the handlebars are tight. • Check the throttle for smooth operation and that it ‘clacks’ shut properly. • Check for loose bolts and nuts, and re-torque as necessary. • Verify that the air filter is clean and properly saturated with oil. • Insure that the fuel tank contains an adequate volume of fuel / oil mixture to complete the distance required. (High octane pump gas with Cobra’s specially formulated Cobra Venom 2-cycle Race Oil ) • Turn the fuel on by rotating the fuel petcock knob to the vertically downward position (reserve position is horizontally forward