how check the ignition timing on an 88 cubic inch motor

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Harley-Davidson Electronic Ignition Module Installation instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 23-04-2012

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Step 1: Switch main dashboard switch to “off” position (Ignition& light switch) Step 2: Disconnect negative (ground) cable from the Battery Step 3: Remove the Condenser and Breaker points from the circuit breaker timing base. Step 4: Disconnect advance/ retard cable from timing base Step 5: Remove timing base from timer shaft and housing (see your manual for instructions) Step 6: Remove circuit breaker wire stud or circuit breaker to coil wire assembly from timing base Step 7: Remove circuit breaker wire from Ignition coil, and mark terminal on coil with piece of tape. Step 8: Install the Electronic Ignition Module on the timing base. Mount this short black wire to one on the timer base screws by keeping some slack in this wire so the timing base can turn free. Solder the flag terminal to this short black wire and mount it under the timer to motor bolt. This way of mounting provides a much better grounding. Do NOT use the screws (number 1 or 2 screws from picture below) from the timing base!!!! Step 9: Now three wires pass this hole via the rubber grommet. Figure 1 Figure 2 Step 10: Reinstall the timer base on the timer shaft housing, and keep some slack in the wires before protruding the hole in the timer shaft housing, and secure with ground spring and cover retainer. Reconnect the advance/retard cable to the timer base. Step 11: Route the two long wires to the ignition coil. Check in the HD service manual for a proper route to the ignition coil. (Keep away from hot surfaces like exhaust systems). Cut the wires to the exact length necessary for mounting. Step 12: Determine the exact length of the wire loom. Keep in mind that one end of the loom enters the timer shaft housing by 1cm. Cut the loom to the proper length. Step 13: Insert both wires in the loom. Strip both wire ends and solder the two flag terminals on the wires. Step 14: Connect the red wire to the ignition coil, on the terminal where the 6 or 12 volt is supplied to. This terminal has at minimum one wire connected which runs to the main switch. Step 15: Connect the black wire to the ignition coil on the terminal which is empty, and has piece of tape on it. (Old place where the circuit breaker wire was connected to) Step 16: Install the trigger rotor on the timer shaft cam, and tighten the hex screw by using the hex key tool. Do not over tighten the screw! Step 17: Check for clearance between trigger rotor and Electronic Ignition Module. Appropriate clearance is between 0,5mm and 1,5mm . Minor adjustments can be made by unlocking the two screws and slightly shift/move the Electronic Ignition Module. Check if the rotor moves free. Timing instructions: Remove the spark plugs from the engine, but keep them connected to the spark coil cables and engine ground. This enables normal operation of the spark, and prevents unwanted engine firing on compression stroke. See service manual or handbook for timing instructions of your model Step 18: Reconnect the negative (ground) cable to the battery. Step 19: Switch main power to “on” position. The red light in the Electronic Ignition Module might already light up. If not, turn the kick starter slowly. The red light is on while charging (closed points)the Ignition coil, facing solid metal of the trigger rotor. The light goes off (open points) when the end of the solid surface of the trigger rotor passes the centre of the Electronic Ignition Module. At that point a spark is generated by the coil

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POLINI X1 GENERAL INFORMATION AND SPECIFICATIONS

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Filed Under (Polini) by admin on 02-12-2010

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Air cleaner – Clean and reoil daily or after each moto to prevent motor failure and reduced performance. Transmission oil – change after every race, or at end of riding day. Chain – check tension and lubricate before every ride, adjust or replace as needed. Reoil after riding in damp conditions. Clutch – disassemble and clean clutch assembly frequently, every 2-3 races at least. Inspect kickstarter gears at this time. Ignition cover – remove cover and wipe dry after each ride or after washing bike to remove condensation. Piston rings – replace as often as every 3-5 races with expert rider, less often with less aggressive riders. Piston, pin, rod bearing & circlips – replace as often as every 8-10 races with expert rider, less often with less aggressive riders. Coolant – change yearly, make sure there is at least a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze if freezing temperatures are possible. Steering bearings – Check daily for looseness or play. Adjust and regrease as needed. Swingarm – Check often for looseness. Regrease several times a year. Replace bushings if any play is evident. Sprockets – check for worn or curved teeth each time chain is adjusted. Chain roller& wear pads – check roller for free rotation when checking chain. Make sure roller is not bent or damaged. Check chain wear strips on swingarm and chain guide frequently. Replace as needed to prevent chain from damaging motorcycle. Spokes – Check after each race or after each day of riding for looseness or damage. Wheels & tires – check wheels after each race for dents, cracks or other damage. Check tires for cuts, damage or wear. Check tire pressure daily and adjust for riding conditions. Shock – Check shaft area daily for signs of oil leakage or damage. Check swingarm and shock bushings for looseness. Forks – Check forks daily for leaking oil or damage to tubes. Make sure forks are not twisted check for smooth operation. Spark plug – check sparkplug color and condition after each race or end of riding day. Adjust jetting to keep plug from fouling or overheating. Silencer – If bike seems to be getting louder, replace packing and decarbonize inner tube. Expansion pipe – check daily for large dents, damage or leakage. Remove carbon from headpipe when pipe is removed. Have large dents fixed, or any dents within 8″ of the cylinder. Replace o-rings on pipe as needed to maintain a good seal. Footpegs – check daily for proper operation, pegs should spring back into place. Make sure pegs are not bent or overly dull. Handlebars – check bars after any crash for bending. Look for cracks near bar clamps. Replace bars that have been straightened more than 2 or three times, or if bar is badly bent. Aweakened bar can snap suddenly causing injury to rider. Throttle – check throttle for proper operation each time before bike is started. Remove and clean inside of grip and bar as needed. Grips – check grips daily for wear or looseness. Replace as needed. Use grip glue & safety wire to help hold grips in position. Calipers & pads – check pad wear and caliper function daily or after each race. Replace pads and clean calipers as needed. Brake lever – check lever daily for damage or wear. Make sure lever is at proper angle for both seated and standing positions. Leave lever clamp loose enough to allow clamp to rotate during crash rather than breaking lever. Check and adjust freeplay as needed. Brake pedal – Check pedal daily for damage and proper freeplay. Adjust rear caliper as needed. Reeds – Remove and inspect reed block during every ring change. Check reeds for signs of wear, fraying and cracking. Make sure reeds sit flat and seal well. Replace at any sign of wear or damage or at least once a year, more often for expert riders. Nuts & bolts – Check all nuts and bolts regularly. Make sure to check engine mounting bolts and swingarm bolt frequently

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HI-4 DUAL FIRE MOTORCYCLE IGNITION INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 09-11-2010

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Turn ignition switch off and disconnect battery ground cable. 2. Refer to Figure 3. Remove OE ignition module and wire harness (items 1-4). You will disconnect two wires at the coil (15), a wire going to the VOES (Vacuum Operated Electrical Switch) (18), a black ground wire at the ignition module, and the 3 pin plug (20) that connects to the sensor plate (11). Refer to shop manual for locations. 3. Remove ignition cover plates and gasket (items 5- 9). This will require drilling out two rivets. The rivets will later be replaced with two supplied self- threading screws. 4. In order to remove the sensor plate cable, the cable plug (20) must be removed first. Use needle nose pliers to pull the terminals out of the plug. Then pull the cable through the exit hole at the bottom of the timing cover. 5. Note location of sensor plate (11). There is a V notch in the sensor plate used for alignment. When you install the HI-4, you should align the V notch in the same location. This should set the timing close enough to start the engine. Remove and save the two standoffs and washers (10). Remove the sensor plate (11). HI-4 INSTALLATION Refer to Figure 4. The HI-4 requires use of the OE timing rotor P/N 32402-83 (used only on 1985 and newer models). If you have an older model or are not sure, check the rotor (9) for the correct part number. For models prior to 1980, use the supplied 10-32 x ¾”bolt and washer to mount the rotor. 1. Install the HI-4 system in place of the OE breaker or sensor plate. Rotate the HI-4 about 90 degrees to give better access to the cable exit hole. Install the HI-4 first, then push the cable through the hole. On some early models it may be necessary to enlarge the wire harness exit hole in the gear cover. Align the V notch on the HI-4 same as the OE plate you removed. Use the OE standoffs to secure the HI-4. You must use lockwashers under the standoffs for proper clearance between the HI-4 and cover plate. Do not fully tighten the standoffs until the timing has been set. 2. Route the HI-4 wire harness along the frame rails up to the coil. Make sure that harness will not be chafed or burned by exhaust heat. Secure harness with tie wraps. Do not install timing cover. HI-4 HOOKUP Crimp terminals and hardware are supplied for your convenience. Use the ring terminals for coil hookup. Use male-female quick disconnects for connections to the tach and vacuum switch (VOES). Tape up any unused wires. 1. Circuit Breaker Cover Screws (2) 2. Circuit Breaker Cover 3. Circuit Breaker Cover Gasket 4. Breaker Plate Screws (2) 5. Breaker Plate Screw Lockwashers & Washers (2 each) 6. Retainer (1971 to early 1972) 7. Circuit Breaker Cam Bolt 8. Breaker Plate Assembly 9. Breaker Cam 10. Advance Assembly 11. Gear Case Cover 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 NOTE: Damage will result if the brown tach wire comes in contact with +12V. Figure 1. Harley-Davidson®OE Points System
9000-4002A REV A 3 2/05 1. Identify switched +12 volt wire and tach wire (if equipped) going to the coil. Refer to your service manual, or reconnect the battery and use a test light or voltmeter. The switched +12 volt wire will be hot when the ignition key is turned on. 2. Refer to Figure 5. Connect the HI-4 red wire and switched +12 volt wire to Coil positive. 3. The HI-4 white wire is not used and should be taped. 4. Connect the HI-4 black wire to the Coil negative terminal. 5. Connect the HI-4 green wire to the vacuum switch (Figure 3, item 18), if used. 6. Connect the HI-4 brown wire to the tach wire, if equipped with tach. Tape up if unused. 7. The HI-4 is grounded via the timing housing; a separate ground connection is not required. 8. Reconnect battery ground cable. Verify proper ground connections to the frame and engine. VOES HOOKUP The OE vacuum switch (VOES) is normally an open circuit. Above 3-5 inch-Hg vacuum, the VOES closes and grounds the vacuum input on the OE ignition module. This increases the total advance generated by the OE ignition module. Vacuum advance improves part throttle 17 16 1. Cover Screws (2) 2. Ignition Timer Cover 3. Ignition Module 4. Timer Plate Screws (2) 5. Washers (2) 6. Screws & Washers (2 each) 7. Shield 8. Sensor 9. Trigger Rotor Bolt 10. Timer Plate 11. Trigger Rotor 12. Advance Assembly 13. Gear Case Cover 14. Ignition Coil 15. Spark Plug Wires (2) 16. Ignition Coil Terminal (FX) 17. Ignition Coil Terminal (FL) 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 NOTE: Most motorcycle coils do not have terminals marked. Use either terminal for Coil+ (positive) and the other one for Coil- (negative). Warning: The HI-4 (8-1100) Dual Fire ignition will not work with 2 plugs per head, dual coil application. Damage will result if attempted. Use the HI-4 (8-2100) single fire ignition for 2 plugs per head applications

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Lambretta UNO50 Owners Manual

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Filed Under (Lambretta) by admin on 25-11-2010

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brakes: Inspect brake cables/hoses/linkage for correct mounting, chafing, leaks and damage. Check and adjust both front and rear brakes. If hydraulic, check fluid level and correct if necessary (DOT 4 fluid only). Engine: Check and correct the engine oil level. Fuel system: Check fuel tank, carburetor, fuel valve and all hoses for leaks. Throttle system: Check for correct throttle cable routing. Throttle operates smoothly and self-returns to idle from all handlebar positions. Wheels/tires: Check wheels, tires and valve stem for damage, etc. Check and adjust tire pressures. 11 Suspension: Check for smooth suspension operation. Lubricate all grease points using correct specification grease. Check for correct suspension adjustments. Inspect fork and shock seals for leaks. Steering: Check for smooth steering operation and handlebar bearings for proper adjustments. Electrical Systems: Check for correct function of all side, headlight (high/low beam) and taillights, turn indicators, brake lights, warning lights and instrument illumination. Check for correct horn operation. Check harnesses for correct routing. Check for correct function of starter lockout system. Check for correct engine stop switch operation. Check for correct function of the low oil warning light. (2 stroke only) Emission Systems: Check connections and hoses for routing and kinks.
12 Fastening hardware: Check front and rear axle nut and bolt torque. Check torque of drain plug and oil filter bolt. Check torque of all brake system nuts and bolts. Check torque of all steering system mounting hardware. Check torque of exhaust mounting hardware. Check torque of all remaining nuts, bolts & screws. Road test Front and rear brake operation. (approx. 10km): Check cold engine start performance. Evaluate performance, handling and braking. After road testing: Check hot engine starting. Check and adjust idle speed. Check for oil and fuel leaks. Make necessary adjustments and repair any defects seen or observed before, during and after test drive. Retest as necessary. Clean the vehicle prior to deliver

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NORTON LIGHTWEIGHT TWIN ELECTRONIC IGNITION Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Norton) by admin on 31-10-2010

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1. All connections must be of the highest quality, use crimped or soldered connections; twisted wires will not give a satisfactory operation. 2. Remove the petrol tank and/or seat to gain access to the ignition coils, condensers and wiring. 3. For safety, disconnect the battery (preferably both terminals). 4. Remove timing cover. 5. Disconnect the two wires (usually black-white & black-yellow) and remove the contact-breaker plate. At the other end, these two wires must be disconnected from the ignition coils & condensers. The condensers are no longer required and can be removed. They should not be connected to the electronic ignition system. 6. Remove auto-advance unit. 7. Disconnect the remaining wires from the ignition coils. These come from the ignition switch supply. The colour of this ignition supply wire may be different on some machines; if so check using a test lamp or meter to find the live wire when the ignition is switched on. 8. Find a suitable place for the ignition module, preferably near to the ignition coils. Secure the ignition module to the frame using one or more large cable ties. An adhesive mounting base is provided; this can be affixed to the underside of the module and the cable tie passed through and around the module and frame. Do not completely wrap the module in foam rubber. 9. Using the black coil link wire, connect the negative (—) terminal of one ignition coil to the positive (+) terminal of the other ignition coil. See figs. 1/2 on page 7. • BLACK COIL LINK WIRE • RED EARTHING WIRE • CRIMP CONNECTORS & INSULATORS • LARGE & SMALL CABLE TIES • CABLE TIE ADHESIVE MOUNTING BASE 3 10. Take the black wire from the ignition module, cut to length and fit an insulator and female spade connector to the end. Connect to the negative (—) terminal on ignition coil #2. See figs. 1/2 on page 7. 11. Take the red wire from the ignition module, cut to length and fit an insulator and female spade connector to the end. Connect to the positive (+) terminal on ignition coil #1. See figs. 1/2 on page 7. 12. For NEGATIVE EARTH electrics go to step 15. 13. For POSITIVE EARTH electrics (standard): Take the white wire from the ignition module, cut to length and fit an insulator and male spade connector to the end. Connect to one of the negative ignition feed wires previously removed in step 7. The other wire (if fitted) is spare and should be covered with insulation to prevent shorting to the frame etc. 14. Take the red earthing wire, fit an insulator and female spade connector on one end and connect to the positive (+) terminal on ignition coil #1. Cut to length and fit a ring terminal on the other end and connect to a good earth point on the frame, ideally the battery positive (+) terminal. See fig.1 GOTO STEP 17.

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Kawasaki Sxi/ SXR Ignition twin cylinder Jet Ski ignition Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1. Remove electronics enclosure from its mounting location. 2. Unplug and remove the OEM ignition. 3. Set the programming switches on the T3 to your settings. 4. Install the T3 Ignition in the same location in the electronics enclosure. 5. Test the T3 Ignition. 6. Close the electronics enclosure cover plate and mount the module in the PWC. Installation Remove electronics enclosure from its Mounting Location 1. Using a 10mm socket remove the mounting bolts on each side of the electronics enclosure. 2. Remove the enclosure cover and set aside the screws, 2 mounting flanges, ‘O” ring, and enclosure top. Unplug and Remove the OEM Ignition 1. Using 10mm socket, remove bolts from each side of the OEM ignition. Lift out the ignition and unplug all connectors attached to the OEM ignition. Now remove the protective metal plate that was under the ignition and two 3/16″ thick washers under that plate. 2. On 2004 models and newer remove the wire harness for the two black connectors just unplugged from the OEM ignition. Trace each wire from each black connector back to in-line connectors and separate each of these connectors. Set the two harnesses aside. Install the T3 Ignition in the Electronics Enclosure 1. Install the T3 ignition into the mounting bracket supplied with your T3. Slide the end of the ignition module under the lip at the rear of the bracket an press the wire end of the ignition firmly into the bracket. Attach the keeper bracket using two 5mm bolts supplied. Place the ignition/bracket in the location where the OEM ignition and metal plate were removed. Secure the ignition in place with the supplied bolts

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NORTON TWIN CYLINDER MOTORCYCLES ELECTRONIC IGNITION SYSTEM INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Norton) by admin on 31-10-2010

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1. All connections must be of the highest quality, use crimped or soldered connections; twisted wires will not give a satisfactory operation. 2. Remove the petrol tank and/or seat to gain access to the ignition coils, condensors and wiring. 3. For safety, disconnect the battery (preferably both terminals). 4. Remove timing cover. (The Atlas engine has the points housing behind the cylinder head). 5. Disconnect the two wires (usually black-white & black-yellow) and remove the contact-breaker plate. At the other end, these two wires must be disconnected from the ignition coils & condensors. The condensors are no longer required and can be removed. They should not be connected to the electronic ignition system. 6. Remove auto-advance unit. 7. Disconnect the remaining wires from the ignition coils. These come from the ignition switch supply. On the Norton Commando, remove the white-blue wire from the ballast resistor between the two ignition coils; the ballast resistor is no longer required. The colour of this ignition supply wire may be different on some machines; if so check using a test lamp or meter to find the live wire when the ignition is switched on. 8. Find a suitable place for the ignition module, preferably near to the ignition coils. Secure the ignition module to the frame using one or more large cable ties. An adhesive mounting base is provided; this can be affixed to the underside of the module and the cable tie passed through and around the module and frame. Do not completely wrap the module in foam rubber. 9. Using the black coil link wire, connect the negative (—) terminal of one ignition coil to the positive (+) terminal of the other ignition coil. See figs. 1/2 on page 7. 10. Take the black wire from the ignition module, cut to length and fit an insulator and female spade connector to the end. Connect to the negative (—) terminal on ignition coil #2. See figs. 1/2 on page 7. 11. Take the red wire from the ignition module, cut to length and fit an insulator and female spade connector to the end. Connect to the positive (+) terminal on ignition

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TRIUMPH TWIN CYLINDER MOTORCYCLES WITH POINTS IN THE SIDE CASING INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 30-10-2010

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1. All connections must be of the highest quality, use crimped or soldered connections; twisted wires will not give a satisfactory operation. 2. Remove the petrol tank and/or seat to gain access to the ignition coils, condensors and wiring. 3. For safety, disconnect the battery (preferably both terminals). 4. Remove timing cover. (The Atlas engine has the points housing behind the cylinder head). 5. Disconnect the two wires (usually black-white & black-yellow) and remove the contact-breaker plate. At the other end, these two wires must be disconnected from the ignition coils & condensors. The condensors are no longer required and can be removed. They should not be connected to the electronic ignition system. 6. Remove auto-advance unit. 7. Disconnect the remaining wires from the ignition coils. These come from the ignition switch supply. On the Norton Commando, remove the white-blue wire from the ballast resistor between the two ignition coils; the ballast resistor is no longer required. The colour of this ignition supply wire may be different on some machines; if so check using a test lamp or meter to find the live wire when the ignition is switched on. 8. Find a suitable place for the ignition module, preferably near to the ignition coils. Secure the ignition module to the frame using one or more large cable ties. An adhesive mounting base is provided; this can be affixed to the underside of the module and the cable tie passed through and around the module and frame. Do not completely wrap the module in foam rubber. 9. Using the black coil link wire, connect the negative (—) terminal of one ignition coil to the positive (+) terminal of the other ignition coil. See figs. 1/2 on page 7. 10. Take the black wire from the ignition module, cut to length and fit an insulator and female spade connector to the end. Connect to the negative (—) terminal on ignition coil #2. See figs. 1/2 on page 7. 11. Take the red wire from the ignition module, cut to length and fit an insulator and female spade connector to the end. Connect to the positive (+) terminal on ignition • BLACK COIL LINK WIRE • RED EARTHING WIRE • CRIMP CONNECTORS & INSULATORS • LARGE & SMALL CABLE TIES • CABLE TIE ADHESIVE MOUNTING BASE 3 coil #1. See figs. 1/2 on page 7. 12. For NEGATIVE EARTH electrics go to step 15. 13. For POSITIVE EARTH electrics (standard): Take the white wire from the ignition module, cut to length and fit an insulator and male spade connector to the end. Connect to one of the negative ignition feed wires previously removed in step 7 (white-blue wire for Norton Commando). The other wire (if fitted) is spare and should be covered with insulation to prevent shorting to the frame etc. 14. Take the red earthing wire, fit an insulator and female spade connector on one end and connect to the positive (+) terminal on ignition coil #1. Cut to length and fit a ring terminal on the other end and connect to a good earth point on the frame, ideally the battery positive (+) terminal. For the Norton Commando, the earth tag on the end of the condensor pack can be used (fit a female spade connector to the end of the red earthing wire). See fig.1 GOTO STEP 17

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ULTIMA IGNITION MODULE AND KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL FOR HARLEY DAVIDSON

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 03-03-2011

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Disconnect battery. 2. Mark location of timing plate in relation to inside of cam cover. This will give a starting point for timing on new module. Remove old ignition if applicable (see manual) Clymer, Haynes. 3. If your bike is not equipped with timing rotor M/W# 53-528 OEM#32402-83 you must buy one (included in kit). Also a single fire coil is needed (included in kit) M/W# 53-632. Any single fire coil rated 2-4 ohms can be used. NO SOLID CORE PLUG WIRES (copper, silver) they will damage the unit. 4. Install module: helpful hints, early model nose cones, i.e. Shovel Heads, the hole for the wire may need to be drilled out. Align with previously scripted mark for timing. Use lockwashers for stand offs for correct clearance of cover plate. Run wire loom. 5. Connect wires, see wiring diagram. Tape unused wires, green or brown. 12v to tach (brown) will damage module. Set timing. 1996 and later should not be timed 20˚ BTDC as the OEM module, but at 35˚ BTDC. Use this mark when using timing light. If VOESswitch is not used you must ground VOES wire (green) while timing. Refer to manual for correct identification of timing marks. At start up and timing, set spark advance in middle position. FUNCTION SWITCHES LED timing indicator light: When out, shows TDC. When ignition is on, LED will light up. When engine is cranking LED will blink. Electric Start/Kickstart: Set accordingly. VOES/Race mode: VOES switch lets the motor run smoother and improves gas mileage. If you don’t use it or add one tape up green wire and switch to race. VOES switch to use, M/W# 53-652. Spark advance: High compression motors should use race mode and 93 octane or better gas. Changing from VOES to race changes advance curves. Agood rule of thumb is if the engine knocks when throttle is applied in high gear, turn back spark advance curve until it stops engine knock. RPMlimiter: Set at desired RPM to cut engine power. Rear Cylinder: This is for racing and should be set at a dyno. +/-5˚. Rear cylinder timing is achieved through this adjuster. Most should dial to middle setting and leave alone. After all switches are set, install cover with supplied gasket and feel the increased performance of a solid state single fire ignition. Again, we remind you, if you don’t feel confident about installing this unit, let a qualified mechanic do it and be assured you are getting the best performance and gas mileage possible.

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4-STROKE TRIUMPH SINGLE CYLINDER MOTORCYCLES ELECTRONIC IGNITION SYSTEM INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 27-10-2010

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1. Remove the petrol tank (and seat if necessary) to gain access to the ignition coil, condensor and wiring. 2. For safety, disconnect the battery, if fitted (preferably both terminals). 3. Remove the spark plug. 4. Remove the alternator rotor cover (if fitted). 5. Loosen the auto-advance centre bolt. Rotate the engine to the correct full advance timing position for your machine (see table on page 6), using one of these methods: • Models from 1967 on: use the marks provided for strobe timing on the rotor & chaincase (inside the rotor cover). Unless these marks are known to be accurate it is recommended that they are checked for correct alignment. These marks should line up at the full advance position, check using one of the methods below and, if necessary, re-mark the rotor. • Models from 1969 on: use the timing plug on the left-hand crankcase • Use a degree disc on the crankshaft / camshaft (see table on page 6) • Use a dial guage down the spark plug hole (see table on page 6) 5. Remove kickstart, gear lever and outer timing cover. 6. Remove the contact-breaker plate and lead from the outer timing cover. 7. Taking the ignition trigger assembly, insert a small cable tie into the two holes in front of the connector block on the ignition trigger. This will be used later to secure the two wires to the plate. 8. Fit the ignition trigger plate with the adjustable slots at approx. 6 & 12 o’clock, using the original pillar fixings & washers, positioned in the centre of the slots (to allow for adjustment in either direction). Handle the trigger with care. • RED EARTHING WIRE • CRIMP CONNECTORS & INSULATORS • LARGE & SMALL CABLE TIES • CABLE TIE ADHESIVE MOUNTING BASE 3
9. Remove the centre bolt securing the auto-advance unit. Remove the complete auto-advance unit with an extractor bolt or by tapping it gently sideways. 10. Fit the magnetic rotor in place of the auto-advance unit, with the magnets/ red marks positioned at approx. 3 & 9 o’clock. The magnetic rotor has a male taper which fits into the taper in the end of the camshaft. There is no keyway, allowing it to be fitted in any desired position. 11. Using the ¼” washer and the appropriate bolt (UNF or BSF), pass the bolt through the centre of the magnetic rotor and into the thread in the camshaft. Finger tighten only at this stage. The magnetic rotor centre thread (metric M8) is provided for attaching a puller, if the rotor should need to be removed for engine servicing, etc. 12. Replace the outer timing cover, gear lever & kickstart. 13. Check that the engine is still at the correct full advance position, then adjust the magnetic rotor position so that one of the red marks is centrally behind the static timing hole at 9 o’clock (see fig. 4, page 7). If your machine’s camshaft rotates clockwise, refer to fig. 3. Gently tap the rotor into the taper & tighten the centre bolt, using a 3/16″ allen key. WIRING: 14. All connections must be of the highest quality, use crimped or soldered connections; twisted wires will not give a satisfactory operation. Avoid coiling up surplus lead.

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