how to adjust a carburetor honda shadow 1100

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Adjusting the Pekar K68 for Dnepr or Ural

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 11-11-2010

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1. Make sure the ignition timing is correct 2. Adjust the valves as necessary to ensure proper operation 3. Run the engine to warm it up a bit 4. Adjust the float setting. To do this, remove the carburetors (leave the throttle cables attached), remove the bowl and turn the carburetor upside down (fuel will spill). The float should look like this: Adjust as necessary by bending the float support (#37 in Figure 1). Reinstall Installation and idle adjustment 1. First you must adjust the idle. It is acceptable per the manual to adjust the idle by using the idle adjust screws (11). This usually involves screwing them then backing out 1 to 1.5 turns. Or you can adjust looking at the sliders 2. If installing the carburetors: a. Remove the cover (2) b. Reomve the slider (3) c. Place the throttle cable through the guide (18) with the spring (4) on the cable. d. Route the cable through the slide catch (6) e. Insert the slide assembly into the chamber and make sure it easily slides up and down. Direct the needle (8) into the opening of the diffuser (angled side visible). f. Screw assembly together and verify via throttle movement that slide moves freely. Attach fuel delivery lines to (12). 3. Using the idle set screw (11) raise the slider so the lower edge is 1-2 mm. 4. Assemble to engine using the proper gaskets (paper – felt – paper). 5. Using the locknut (26) adjust the free play of the throttle cable (2-3 mm) 6. Adjust the idle mixture screw – turn in completely then out 1 to 1.5 turns. * Starting using the K68′s (cold weather) 1. Verify fuel flow. Apply choke (pull 52 in Fig1). 2. Using the ticklers (13) allow fuel to enter the bowl until fuel drains from (14) 3. With the ignition off, kick 1 or 2 times 4. Turn ignition on, and as soon as engine is warmed up (maybe sooner) push choke mechanisms to open choke Idle Adjustment (engine running and warm) 1. Remove one of the spark plug caps, and with the cap shorted, adjust (11) to decrease RPM’s to a point of being minimally steady. 2. Adjust the mixture (15) out until RPM’s decrease. Turn in until RPM’s increase slightly. Then turn in screws ¼ to 1/3 revoultion. 3. Do the same for the second carburetor with the first spark plug cap shorted. 4. With both cylinders, adjust each idle (11) on each carburetor the same amount each until it’s at a steady, minimal RPM. Use small changes. (at this point you can use your airflow tool to check). 5. Sharply increase, then decrease throttle. Then engine must return to low RPMs smoothly. If the engine goes below limits, readjust (11) from step 4. Synchronization of the K68 Note: Rather than using the opposite cylinder shorted to test the pull of the live cylinder carburetor, you can use something like a Twinmax connected to the test ports (27 Fig 1). Or, if you have a model without these ports, use a Synchrometer (Appendix 2) held against the face of the carburetor. These tools merely show airflow passing through each carburetor (which is dependent on the position and wear on the slide). If using these tools, it’s not necessary to do the following steps. You wil want to use a throttle guide (Appendix 1), to show airflow at various throttle settings. Using the flow meter of your choice make sure each carburetor is the same at the various throttle settings. 1. Place the motorcycle on the center stand ensuring the rear wheel is suspended 2. Make sure you have large area to work with (safety issues here) 3. Shift into the highest gear with the engine running 4. Short one spark plug cap to the cylinder (using a nail or something in the fins) 5. Increase the speed to 40-50 km/hr 6. Fix the throttle using the throttle (maybe using a throttle stop screw under the throttle housing). 7. Reconnect other cylinder and using the opposite carburetor determine the speed which should be the same as the first. 8. Adjust the position of this slide to achieve the referenced speed using the locknut at the top of the carburetor.

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Honda Shadow A.C.E. v. Yamaha V-Star 1100 Middleweight Import Cruiser Shootout

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 25-11-2010

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You want a big cruiser but you don’t need a large 1500 cc behemoth that weighs close to half-a-ton fully loaded. You want something you can cruise down the boulevard on but you want to be able to handle a corner or two. You want classic styling but you insist on reliability as well. If these are your guidelines, then Honda and Yamaha might have what you’re looking for in the guise of the Honda Shadow American Classic Edition and Yamaha V-Star 1100. Shadow ACE 1100 The ACE and V-Star have a few things in common: Both sport requisite V-twin powerplants (75° for the V-Star and 45° for the ACE) and both possess typical Japanese refinement. Aside from these similarities, the two rides are very different machines. While both machines are shaft driven, the ACE uses the shaft housing as the swingarm. Although this arrangement is effective, it’s a bit lacking style-wise. However, the whitewall tires and the classic fenders and tank help to create a traditional design that turns heads when you’re out and about. The V-Star uses a different approach, utilizing a pivoting sub-frame design with a hidden mono-shock that keeps the lines fluid and consistent with the rest of the bike. Although this beast isn’t equipped with whitewall tires, it still cuts a graceful, glittering profile. The only flaw we noticed was the small headlight that

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Ural carburetors Installation and idle adjustment

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Filed Under (Ural) by admin on 02-11-2010

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1. First you must adjust the idle. It is acceptable per the manual to adjust the idle by using the idle adjust screws (11). This usually involves screwing them then backing out 1 to 1.5 turns. Or you can adjust looking at the sliders 2. If installing the carburetors: a. Remove the cover (2) b. Reomve the slider (3) c. Place the throttle cable through the guide (18) with the spring (4) on the cable. d. Route the cable through the slide catch (6) e. Insert the slide assembly into the chamber and make sure it easily slides up and down. Direct the needle (8) into the opening of the diffuser (angled side visible). f. Screw assembly together and verify via throttle movement that slide moves freely. Attach fuel delivery lines to (12). 3. Using the idle set screw (11) raise the slider so the lower edge is 1-2 mm. 4. Assemble to engine using the proper gaskets (paper – felt – paper). 5. Using the locknut (26) adjust the free play of the throttle cable (2-3 mm) 6. Adjust the idle mixture screw – turn in completely then out 1 to 1.5 turns 1. Remove one of the spark plug caps, and with the cap shorted, adjust (11) to decrease RPM’s to a point of being minimally steady. 2. Adjust the mixture (15) out until RPM’s decrease. Turn in until RPM’s increase slightly. Then turn in screws ¼ to 1/3 revoultion. 3. Do the same for the second carburetor with the first spark plug cap shorted. 4. With both cylinders, adjust each idle (11) on each carburetor the same amount each until it’s at a steady, minimal RPM. Use small changes. (at this point you can use your airflow tool to check). 5. Sharply increase, then decrease throttle. Then engine must return to low RPMs smoothly. If the engine goes below limits, readjust (11) from step 4. Synchronization of the K68 Note: Rather than using the opposite cylinder shorted to test the pull of the live cylinder carburetor, you can use something like a Twinmax connected to the test ports (27 Fig 1). Or, if you have a model without these ports, use a Synchrometer (Appendix 2) held against the face of the carburetor. These tools merely show airflow passing through each carburetor (which is dependent on the position and wear on the slide). If using these tools, it’s not necessary to do the following steps. You wil want to use a throttle guide (Appendix 1), to show airflow at various throttle settings. Using the flow meter of your choice make sure each carburetor is the same at the various throttle settings. 1. Place the motorcycle on the center stand ensuring the rear wheel is suspended 2. Make sure you have large area to work with (safety issues here) 3. Shift into the highest gear with the engine running 4. Short one spark plug cap to the cylinder (using a nail or something in the fins) 5. Increase the speed to 40-50 km/hr 6. Fix the throttle using the throttle (maybe using a throttle stop screw under the throttle housing). 7. Reconnect other cylinder and using the opposite carburetor determine the speed which should be the same as the first. 8. Adjust the position of this slide to achieve the referenced speed using the locknut at the top of the carburetor.

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HSR Carburetor Total Kits Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Mikuni) by admin on 31-10-2010

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Intake Manifold: 1. Install MAP sensor in Mikuni manifold (Twin Cam only). 2. Attach the Mikuni manifold to the engine. Align the manifold before tightening the bolts. The flange surface of the Mikuni manifold should be parallel with the front of the engine’s cam cover. Use a level or angle meter to check this. Tighten the manifold bolts. 3. Attach the rubber flange to the Mikuni manifold with the furnished 5/16″x3/4″ bolts and washers. Choke Cables: Mikuni & Harley-Davidson Route the cable with largest radius bends possible. Check the cable for free-play after installation. If there is no free-play, the engine may run rich and deliver poor performance or low fuel mileage. Harley Cable (Twin Cam Kits: 42-19, 45-4) : 1. Remove the Harley choke cable from the stock carb. 2. Remove the spring and plunger from the cable. 3. Remove the spring and plunger from the Mikuni. 5. Install the Mikuni spring and plunger onto the Harley choke cable. Change nothing else; be sure to use the Harley plastic nut, not the Mikuni nut (See Figure 1). Total Kit Installation Instructions The HSR series carburetors are precise yet durable instruments; however, like any other piece of fine equipment, they require correct installation and reasonable care to assure optimum performance and long life. Extra time spent during installation will pay off in both short and long term performance and reliability. This Mikuni HSR carburetor kit is designed to be a bolt-on application, and as such, is set-up and jetted properly for most applications. However, since Harley-Davidson motors are often highly modified, alternate tuning settings may be required. The Mikuni Tuning Manual helps make jetting alterations and adjustments an easy matter. NOTE: Carburetor Kits not designated as C.A.R.B. exempt, are not legal for motor vehicles operated on public highways in the state of California, or in any other states and countries where similar laws apply. WARNING NOTE: NOTE: WARNING CAUTION NOTE: NOTE: TK-2 6. Install the new assembly into the Mikuni carburetor. Be careful to only gently tighten the plastic nut. 7. Loosen the knurled plastic friction nut behind the choke knob and check for free-play (see Figure 2). Figure 1: Harley nut with Mikuni spring & plunger Figure 2: Choke cable adjustments Mikuni Cable (Evo Kits: 42-8, 45-2 & 45-3) : 1. Remove nut, spring and plunger from the Mikuni. 2. Install the nut, spring and plunger onto the cable. 3. Install the assembly into the Mikuni HSR carburetor. Be careful to only gently tighten the plastic nut. 4. Check for free-play. Adjust the cable as necessary. An optional choke cable mounting bracket is included in the Evo kits for custom installations. Carburetor Installation: 1. Insert the carb fully into the rubber flange, align with engine and tighten the clamp. 2. Slip the fuel hose onto the carburetor’s fuel fitting and secure with the enclosed hose clamp. NOTE: Some Twin Cam installations may require removal of a small amount of fin material from the cylinders to clear the float bowl. Throttle Cables The HSR carburetor uses stock 1990 and later Harley- Davidson cables. However, if your Harley is fitted with some other carburetor, you may need to purchase a set of cables. See your dealer for the correct cable set. 1. Route the throttle cables with large radius curves and so they do not interfere with other components. 2. Screw the cable adjusters together to make them as short as possible. 3. Connect the “close” cable first (see Figure 3). 4. Install the “open” cable next (see Figure 3). 5. Adjust the opening cable until the slide can be opened fully. Snug the adjuster lock nut. 6. Turn the handlebar to the right and adjust the throttle free-play with the closing cable adjuster to approximately 1/8″ (see Figure 4)

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1998 Honda Shadow Aero Specifications And Review

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 24-11-2010

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can fix it – let us help. The color combo that would have been featured here, had we not got rained on. As light as the morning precipitation was, a rainsuit seemed silly, and surely jeans and a leather jacket would be enough. However, at the crest of the peninsula, El Nino let his wrath be felt. A full-on downpour of Florida- like proportions dropped from the sky, without the benefit of gulf-stream warmth. Suddenly, wearing geeky-looking Gore-Tex seemed like a very good idea. Riding through six inch deep floodwaters at about 15 mph, the Aero kept a very even keel. The floorboards (first ever on a Honda) kept the feet drier than they would have been otherwise. After a brief stop at a military museum, we headed back to Honda’s HQ for a van ride to lunch at Hollywood’s House of Blues. Detail 101: Witness the huge chrome headlight/speedo assembly, with matching idiot lights set into the triple clamp. We couldn’t form much of a riding impression from our rain-soaked 30 mile jaunt, but we liked what we found. If you’re a big fan of the ACE 750, you’ll be a big fan of the Aero. Although the styling is not ground-breaking, it isn’t a carbon copy of you-know-who (hint: They’re based out of Milwaukee). The detail on the Aero is beautiful, with tasteful chrome accents and well-finished pieces. We hope to get the big 1100 back for a full test against Suzuki’s new Intruder 1500LC, Harley’s new Road King Classic, and all the other cruiser big boys some time this spring, after El Nino goes away … Manufacturer: Honda Model: 1998 Shadow Aero Price (two-tone): $9,995.00 Engine: liquid-cooled 45 degree V-twin, single crank pin Bore and Stroke: 87.5 x 91.4mm Displacement: 1099cc Carburetion: Two 36mm CV Transmission: 5 speed Wheelbase: 66.1 in Seat Height: 28.5 in Fuel Capacity: 4.2 gal with .8 gal reserve Claimed Dry Weight: 623 lbs

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YAMAHA V-Star 1100 Carburetor Bowl Screw Repair and Removal After Stripping and Pilot Cap Removal

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 19-01-2012

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When I first started working on bike many years ago, I learned the danger of stripping the heads of Philips screws when removing or installing them on motorcycles. I remember the two worst screws were the casing side-cover aluminum screws and carburetor bowl screws. I think I tried every method of screw removal after they were stripped. Vice grips, better tipped screwdriver, hammer, drill, and other tools were used. One way I learned to remove stripped screws is to re-make the Philips head into a flathead screw. Cutting a slot in the top of the screw and then use a flat-head screwdriver to remove the screw. On some parts this technique can work, other parts and screws it may not. The Philips screws on the bottom of the V-Star carburetor bowls are VERY prone to stripping. In fact, I will not start a carburetor cleaning without new hex head screws to replace the original Philips bowl screws. Replace the bowl screws for yourself if you keep the bike, or for the next rider that will appreciate the hex-head screws when they clean the carburetors. Not many other parts on a V-Star have screws that are prone to stripping. This documentation is to help riders with motorcycle maintenance. Some riders will find themselves with the problem of removing stripped screws. A carburetor cleaning can quickly double in time when you realize the hardest part of the job is removing bowl screws after they strip. And then realizing you do not have the replacement hex-head screws available and must now go to the hardware store.

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KTM 60 SX / 65 SX REPAIR MANUAL ENGINE

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 12-11-2010

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Carburetor adjustment Basic information about the original carburetor setting The original carburetor setting was adapted for an altitude of approx. 500 meters (1600 ft.) above sea level, and the ambient temperature of approx. 20°C (68°F), mainly for off-road use and central European premium-grade fuel (ROZ 95). Mixing ratio 2-stroke motor oil : super fuel 1:40 . Basic information of changing the carburetor setting Always start out from the original carburetor setting. Essential requirements are a clean air filter system, air-tight exhaust system and an intact carburetor. Experience has shown that adjusting the main jet, the idling jet and the jet needle is sufficient and that changes of other parts of the carburetor will not greatly affect engine performance. RULE OF THUMB: high altitude or high temperatures  choose leaner carburetor adjustment low altitude or low temperatures  choose richer carburetor adjustment * WARNING * -ONLYUSE PREMIUM – GRADE GASOLINE ROZ 95 MIXED WITH HIGH – GRADE TWO – STROKE ENGINE OIL . OTHER TYPES OF GASOLINE CAN CAUSE ENGINE FAILURE , AND USE OF SAME WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY . -ONLYUSE HIGH – GRADE 2- STROKE ENGINE OIL OF KNOWN BRANDS ( I . E .SHELL ADVANCE RACING X). -NOTENOUGH OIL OR LOW – GRADE OILCAN CAUSE EROSION OF THE PISTON . USING TOO MUCH OIL , THE ENGINE CAN START SMOKING AND FOUL THE SPARKPLUG . -INTHE CASE OFA LEANER ADJUSTMENT OF THE CARBURETOR PROCEED CAUTIOUSLY . ALWAYSREDUCETHEJETSIZEINSTEPSOFONENUMBERTOAVOID OVERHEATING AND PISTON SEIZURE . NOTE: If despite a changed adjustment the engine does not run properly, look for mechanical faults and check the ignition system. Basic information on carburetor wear As a result of engine vibrations, throttle valve, jet needle, and needle jet are subjected to increased wear. This wear may cause carburetor malfunction (e.g., overly rich mixture). Therefore, these parts should be replaced after 1000 hours of using. Idling range – A Operation with closed throttle valve. This range is influenced by the idle adjusting screw 1 . Only make adjustments when the engine is hot. The idling speed can be changed by turning the idle adjusting screw. Turning it clockwise produces a higher idling speed and turning the screw counterclockwise produces a lower idling speed. Opening up – B Engine behavior when the throttle opens. The idle jet and the shape of the throttle valve influences this range. If, despite good idling-speed and part-throttle setting, the engine sputters and smokes when the throttle is fully opened and develops its full power not smoothly but suddenly at high engine speeds, the mixture to the carburetor will be too rich, the fuel level too high or the float needle is leaking. Part-throttle range – C Operation with partly open throttle valve. This range is only influenced by the jet needle (shape and position). The optimum part-throttle setting is controlled by the idling setting in the lower range and by the main jet in the upper range. If the engine runs on a four-stroke cycle or with reduced power when it is accelerated with the throttle partly open, the jet needle must be lowered by one notch. If then the engine pings, especially when accelerating under full power at maximum engine revs, the jet needle should be raised. If these faults should occur at the lower end of the part throttle range at a four-stroke running, make the idling range leaner; if the engine pings, adjust the idling range richer

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HONDA ATV Carburetor Repair Kits Installation

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 21-12-2011

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ATV Carburetor Repair Kits Complete kits to rebuild one OEM carburetor. Each kit contains necessary gaskets/o-rings, needle valve or needle valve set, and jets. Made in Japan. Note: Check all parts before installation. Honda Model Year Order No AT C70 78-85 025-001 AT C90 70-71 025-003 ATC90K1/K2/K3 72-75 025-003 AT C90 76-78 025-003 TRX90 Fourtrax 90 93-98 025-084 ATC110 79-83 025-005 ATC110 84-85 025-061 ATC125M 84-85 025-062 TRX125 Fourtrax 85-86 025-050 TRX125 Fourtrax 87-88 025-063 ATC185 1980 025-009 ATC185S 81-83 025-009 AT C200 81-82 025-008 AT C200 1983 025-009 ATC200E Big Red 82-83 025-064 ATC200ES Big Red 1984 025-064 AT C200M 84-85 025-064 AT C200S 84-86 025-065 AT C200X 83-85 025-012 AT C200X 86-87 025-014 TRX200 Fourtrax 200 90-91 025-066 TRX200D Fourtrax 200 Type II 1991 025-066 TRX200D Fourtrax 200 Type II 92-93 025-067 TRX200D Fourtrax 200 Type II 94-97 025-068 TRX200SX Fourtrax 87-88 025-069 ATC250R 81-82 025-017 ATC250R 83-84 025-018 AT C250R 1985 025-019 ATC250ES Big Red 85-87 025-029 AT C250SX 1985 025-070 TRX250 Fourtrax 250 1985 025-071 TRX250 Fourtrax 250 86-87 025-072 TRX250EX Sportrax 250EX 01-04 025-085 TRX250R Fourtrax 250R 86-87 025-060 TRX250R Fourtrax 250R 1988 025-073 TRX250X 91-92 025-074 TRX300 Fourtrax 300 1988 025-075 TRX300 Fourtrax 300 91-92 025-076 TRX300 Fourtrax 300 93-95 025-078 Honda Model Year Order No TRX300EX Fourtrax 300EX 93-98 025-081 TRX300FW Fourtrax 300 4×4 1988 025-075 TRX300FW Fourtrax 300 4×4 91-92 025-076 TRX300FW Fourtrax 300 4×4 93-95 025-078 AT C350X 1985 025-035 TRX350 Fourtrax 4×4 86-87 025-079 TRX350FE Fourtrax Rancher 4×4 ES 00-03 025-082 TRX350FM Fourtrax Rancher 4×4 00-03 025-082 TRX350TE Fourtrax Rancher ES 00-03 025-082 TRX350TM Fourtrax Rancher 00-03 025-082 TRX350D Fourtrax Foreman 4×4 87-89 025-079 TRX400FW Fourtrax Foreman 95-00 025-080 TRX450ES Fourtrax Foreman ES 98-01 025-083 TRX450FE Fourtrax Foreman ES 02-03 025-083 TRX450FM Fourtrax Foreman S 02-03 025-083 TRX450S Fourtrax Foreman S 98-01 025-083 TRX500FAFourtrax Rubicon 01-04 025-086

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ODYSSEY DRYCELL MOTORCYCLE BATTERY COMPATIBILITY

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 30-10-2010

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BMW 1200 1200 1150 1100 1100 1000 1000 1000 1000 900 850 800 800 800 750 750 750 750 750 650 650 600 600 500 BUELL 1200 1200 1200 1000 DUCATI 860 750 500 HARLEY DAVIDSON 1570 1570 1450 1450 1340 1340 1340 1200 883 HONDA 1800 1500 1200 1100 1000 1000 900 750 750 650 650 650 600 400 200 150 150 125 K1200RS, LT R1200C R1150GS, R R1100GS/R R1100RS/T/S/LT “K” Models R100/7 100RS R100GS, R, RS, RT R90/6, R90S R850R R80GS, R80ST R80, R80RT R80/7/RT K75, RT K75C, S R75/5 R75/7 R75/6 R65 R65LS R60/5 R60/6, R60/7 R50/5 S1 Lightning X1, S3, S3T, M2 S2/T, RS1200, RR1200 RR1000 GT, GTS GT, Laguna Seca GTL, GTV, Sport FXST, FLST FXD FXD FXST, FLST FXD FXST, FLST FL/H/T/HT XL, XLH XLH, XLH GL1800, VTX1800C Gold Wing-All Gold Wing-All Gold Wing-GL1100 CBX1000, SS opt. Gold Wing-GL1000 CBR900R,RR CB750A (Hondamatic) VFR740R/ RVF750R NT650, SLR650, NX650 Vigor 650 XR650L VT600C, CD, CBR600 CBR400F CB-1 TR200 Fat Cat CH150 Elite FES150 FES125, Pantheon (97 -) (98 -) (00 -) (94-00) (90 -) (83-93) (76-84) (83) (87-95) (69-76) (95-97) (80-96) (84-95) (78-84) (85-95) (85-95) (70-73) (76-84) (69-76) (84-95) (78-84) (70-73) (69-84) (70-73) (96-99) (ALL) (ALL) (87) (2007) (2007) (99-06) (00-06) (97-99) (91-99) (80-96) (97-03) (97-02) (01-06) (88-00) (84-87) (80-83) (82) (75-79) (93-99) (76-78) (90/94) (88-91) (ALL) (93-06) (87-03) (89-90) (86) (87) (ALL) (ALL) #3561 #3561 #3561 #3561 #3561 #4989 #4989 #3561 #4989 #4989 #3561 #3561 #4989 #4989 #4989 #3561 #3561 #4989 #4989 #4989 #3561 #3561 #4989 #3561 #3591** #3591 #3591 #3591 #4989 #4989 #3561 #3591 #2528 #2528 #3591 #2528 #3591 #3560 #2528** #2528** #2528 #3560* #3560* #3560* #3560* #3560* #2519* #3560* #2519* #2519* #2519* #2519* #2519* #2519* #2519* #2519* #2519* #2519* PC680 PC680 PC680 PC680 PC680 PC925L PC925L PC680 PC925L PC925L PC680 PC680 PC925L PC925L PC925L PC680 PC680 PC925L PC925L PC925L PC680 PC680 PC925L PC680 PC545MJ PC545MJ PC545MJ PC545MJ PC925L PC925L PC680 PC545MJ PC545 PC545 PC545MJ PC545 PC545MJ PC680MJ PC545 PC545 PC545 PC680MJ PC680MJ PC680MJ PC680MJ PC680MJ PC310 PC680MJ PC310 PC310 PC310 PC310 PC310 PC310 PC310 PC310 PC310 PC310 cc model (year) cat. # mfg sku # KAWASAKI 1500 1500 1300 1000 1000 900 900 750 750 650 636 600 600 KTM 640 620 400 400 MOTO GUZZ I 1100 1100 1100 1000 1000 850 850 750 650 650 650 500 POLARIS All SUZUKI 1400 900 750 750 750 650 600 600 600 600 400 TRIUMPH 600 YAMAHA 1600 1300 1300 1200 1100 1100 1100 920 600 600 VN 1500-A Vulcan VN 1500-C Vulcan KZ 1300 Touring KZ 1000-P Police Z1000 ZX900-C, Ninja ZX900-E, F Ninja KZ750-L, Ninja Zx750 Ninja ZX, 7RR KLX650C, R ZX636-B Ninja ZX-6R ZX600-G, J Ninja ZX ZX600-K Ninja ZX Adventure, Duke, RXC Adventure, Duke, LC4 LC4 E/XC RXC LC4 Cali/Spc/Jackl/Stone/EV Quota/Sport 1100 VII EV/Bassa California III,Quota,Millie Convert,Daytona, LeMans LeMans T3, T4, T5 Nevada,NTX,Strada,V7,V75 NTX V65 V65 Florida V50 Victory GV 1400GC RF900, R, S, ZS GSX750F Katana GSX-R750 GSXR750W DR650SE GSF600S Bandit GSX600F Katana GSX-R600 RF600R, S GSF400 Bandit Daytona 600 XV 1600 Road Star 1300 Royal Star XVZ Venture Royale XVZ12T Venture XJ1100 Maxim XS 1100, L, S XV 1100, S/ Virago XV 920/R/M Virago XJ600S Seca II XT600E (87-98) (96-97) (79-82) (82-05) (03-04) (98-99) (00-04) (93) (91-97) (93-96) (03-04) (98-02) (03) (99-02) (96-98) (96-98) (96-01) (94-05) (97-02) (98-99) (ALL) (86-88) (94-97) (98-03) (96-99) (94-95) (96-04) (96-03) (98-04) (97-03) (94-96) (91-93) (03-04) (99-03) (96-03) (86-92) (83-85) (82) (78-92) (86-99) (81-83) (92-98) (90-95) #3560 #3560 #3560 #3560 #2519* #2519* #2519* #2519* #2519* #2519* #2519* #2519* #2519* #2519* #2519* #2519* #2519* #4989 #2528 #4989 #4989 #4989 #4989 #4989 #3561 #3561 #4989 #3561 #4989 #2519* #3560 #2519* #2519* #2519* #2519* #2519* #2519* #2519* #2519* #2519* #2519* #2519* #2528*** #2528*** #3560 #3560 #3560 #3560 #3560 #3560 #2519* #2519* PC680MJ PC680MJ PC680MJ PC680MJ PC310 PC310 PC310 PC310 PC310 PC310 PC310 PC310 PC310 PC310 PC310 PC310 PC310 PC925L PC545 PC925L PC925L PC925L PC925L PC925L PC680 PC680 PC925L PC680 PC925L PC310 PC680MJ PC310 PC310 PC310 PC310 PC310 PC310 PC310 PC310 PC310 PC310 PC310 PC545 PC545 PC680MJ PC680MJ PC680MJ PC680MJ PC680MJ PC680MJ PC310 PC310

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How To Adjust the Accelerator Pump On the 40mm Mikuni Carburetor

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 21-01-2012

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1) The “blue” colored screw in the image is the duration adjustment screw. Underneath the head of the screw is a lock nut and the bracket arm that the screw is threaded into. To decrease the amount of fuel squirted the adjustment screw is turned “clockwise” or in. To increase the amount of fuel squirted the adjustment screw is turned “counter clockwise” or out. To get the max, amount of decrease remove the screw and take the lock nut off of the screw. Then replace the screw into the cam arm, then replace the lock nut underneath the arm on the screw. this gives you another 3/32″ of an inch in which the screw can be screwed in.
2) Turn the adjustment screw fully clockwise or IN. Start your engine, Blip your throttle open, if the engine stutters, (hesitates), it is not getting enough fuel so turn the screw counter clockwise to increase the amount of fuel squirted from the accelerator pump into the carburetor. Keep blipping the throttle and adjusting the screw till the carburetor starts to cough. Stop here and turn the screw back in till the coughing stops. Tighten down the lock nut. This should give you the best throttle response with the least amount of coughing and backfiring out the carburetor. Timing Adjustment Screw This is the “Green” colored screw just above the Blue duration adjustment screw. The” Mucker” said it best,,,,, This upper screw adjusts the “timing” of the squirt. By altering it’s setting, you can advance or delay the onset of the fuel squirt. But probably, it won’t have to be touched

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