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HARLEY DAVIDSON SCREAMIN' EAGLE STREET PERFORMANCE TOURING END CAP MUFFLER KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 14-04-2011

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PRODUCT INFORMATION Noise Emission Warranty Harley-Davidson warrants that these mufflers, at the time of sale, meet all applicable United States E.P.A. Federal noise and Emissions standards. This warranty extends to the first person who buys these mufflers for proposes other than resale, and to all subsequent buyers. Warranty claims should be directed to an authorized Harley-Davidson Dealer. Tampering Prohibition Federal law prohibits any modification to this exhaust system which causes the motorcycle to exceed the Federal noise standard. Use of the motorcycle with such a modified exhaust system is also prohibited. NOTE This product should be checked for repair or replacement if the motorcycle noise has increased significantly through use. Otherwise, the owner may become subject to penalties under state and local ordinances. INSTALLATION NOTE Install end caps on mufflers before installing mufflers on vehicle. Install Direct Bolt-On End Caps 1. See Figure 1. Install end cap (2) to muffler (3) with four socket head cap screws (1). Tighten to 82-86 in-lbs (9.3- 9.7 Nm) . 2. Repeat for opposite side muffler. 3 2 1 is05426 1. Socket head screw (4) 2. End cap 3. Muffler Figure 1. Install End Cap on Muffler Install Attachment Ring End Caps 1. See Figure 2. Slide the three U-nuts (2) onto the bosses of the end cap attachment ring cup on the muffler. 2. Install attachment ring (1) to muffler with four socket head cap screws (3). Locate the attachment ring with a U-nut in the 12 o’clock position. Tighten to 82-86 in-lbs (9.3-9.7 Nm) . 3. Slide end cap (5) onto muffler body being careful to align holes in end cap with U-nuts. 4. Install the three countersunk screws (4) and tighten screws securely. 5. Repeat for opposite side muffler

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Adjusting the Pekar K68 for Dnepr or Ural

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 11-11-2010

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1. Make sure the ignition timing is correct 2. Adjust the valves as necessary to ensure proper operation 3. Run the engine to warm it up a bit 4. Adjust the float setting. To do this, remove the carburetors (leave the throttle cables attached), remove the bowl and turn the carburetor upside down (fuel will spill). The float should look like this: Adjust as necessary by bending the float support (#37 in Figure 1). Reinstall Installation and idle adjustment 1. First you must adjust the idle. It is acceptable per the manual to adjust the idle by using the idle adjust screws (11). This usually involves screwing them then backing out 1 to 1.5 turns. Or you can adjust looking at the sliders 2. If installing the carburetors: a. Remove the cover (2) b. Reomve the slider (3) c. Place the throttle cable through the guide (18) with the spring (4) on the cable. d. Route the cable through the slide catch (6) e. Insert the slide assembly into the chamber and make sure it easily slides up and down. Direct the needle (8) into the opening of the diffuser (angled side visible). f. Screw assembly together and verify via throttle movement that slide moves freely. Attach fuel delivery lines to (12). 3. Using the idle set screw (11) raise the slider so the lower edge is 1-2 mm. 4. Assemble to engine using the proper gaskets (paper – felt – paper). 5. Using the locknut (26) adjust the free play of the throttle cable (2-3 mm) 6. Adjust the idle mixture screw – turn in completely then out 1 to 1.5 turns. * Starting using the K68′s (cold weather) 1. Verify fuel flow. Apply choke (pull 52 in Fig1). 2. Using the ticklers (13) allow fuel to enter the bowl until fuel drains from (14) 3. With the ignition off, kick 1 or 2 times 4. Turn ignition on, and as soon as engine is warmed up (maybe sooner) push choke mechanisms to open choke Idle Adjustment (engine running and warm) 1. Remove one of the spark plug caps, and with the cap shorted, adjust (11) to decrease RPM’s to a point of being minimally steady. 2. Adjust the mixture (15) out until RPM’s decrease. Turn in until RPM’s increase slightly. Then turn in screws ¼ to 1/3 revoultion. 3. Do the same for the second carburetor with the first spark plug cap shorted. 4. With both cylinders, adjust each idle (11) on each carburetor the same amount each until it’s at a steady, minimal RPM. Use small changes. (at this point you can use your airflow tool to check). 5. Sharply increase, then decrease throttle. Then engine must return to low RPMs smoothly. If the engine goes below limits, readjust (11) from step 4. Synchronization of the K68 Note: Rather than using the opposite cylinder shorted to test the pull of the live cylinder carburetor, you can use something like a Twinmax connected to the test ports (27 Fig 1). Or, if you have a model without these ports, use a Synchrometer (Appendix 2) held against the face of the carburetor. These tools merely show airflow passing through each carburetor (which is dependent on the position and wear on the slide). If using these tools, it’s not necessary to do the following steps. You wil want to use a throttle guide (Appendix 1), to show airflow at various throttle settings. Using the flow meter of your choice make sure each carburetor is the same at the various throttle settings. 1. Place the motorcycle on the center stand ensuring the rear wheel is suspended 2. Make sure you have large area to work with (safety issues here) 3. Shift into the highest gear with the engine running 4. Short one spark plug cap to the cylinder (using a nail or something in the fins) 5. Increase the speed to 40-50 km/hr 6. Fix the throttle using the throttle (maybe using a throttle stop screw under the throttle housing). 7. Reconnect other cylinder and using the opposite carburetor determine the speed which should be the same as the first. 8. Adjust the position of this slide to achieve the referenced speed using the locknut at the top of the carburetor.

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HAR:EY DAVIDSON FLHR/C/S (Road King) FRONT END LOWERING KIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 01-03-2011

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Removal (Left and Right Forks) 1. Place suitable blocking under frame to raise front wheel several inches off the floor. For best results, use a hydraulic center stand on a level surface. 2. Refer to Touring Model Service Manual and remove front wheel, fender and brakes. 3. Refer to Touring Model Service Manual and remove headlamp nacelle. 4. Loosen fork cap bolt from fork tube plug at top of fork tube, but do not remove. 5. See Figure 1. Standing at front of vehicle, loosen pinch bolt (with lockwasher) on right side of lower fork bracket, but do not remove. 6. Spray glass cleaner on fork tube above the rubber fork stop. After lubricating surfaces, move fork stop up fork tube until it contacts bottom of upper fork bracket. 7. Holding fork slider to prevent fork from dropping, remove fork cap bolt from fork tube plug. Slide fork tube down and out of upper fork bracket, fork stop, lower fork bracket and slider cover. 1 WARNING 1 WARNING 1 WARNING 1 of 5 ® Kit Number 54614-05 Figure 1. Loosen Pinch Bolt on Lower Fork Bracket i04808 1 Fork cap bolt 2 Fork stop 3 Pinch bolt 8. Thread fork cap bolt back into fork tube plug to prevent loss of oil while handling. 9. Move forks to bench area. Place suitable drain pan on floor beneath vise. 10. Repeat Steps 2-6 to remove left fork. Left And Right Fork-Disassembly 1. Remove nuts, lockwashers, flat washers and axle holder from studs at end of fork slider. 2. See Figure 2. Obtain FORK TUBE HOLDER (Part Number HD-41177) and proceed as follows: a. Clamp end of tool in vise in a horizontal position with plastic knobs facing toward you. b. See Figure 3. With the fork cap bolt topside, clamp fork tube between rubber pads on inboard side of tool. Tighten knobs until fork tube is securely held. 3. Remove fork cap bolt from fork tube plug. Remove quad ring seal. Save bolt but discard quad ring seal. 4. Using wrench flat, slowly unthread fork tube plug from fork tube. Be aware that fork tube plug is under spring pressure, so have a firm grasp on plug as the last thread is turned. 5. Remove fork spring from fork tube. 6. Remove fork assembly from fork tube holder. 7. Turning fork upside down, drain fork oil into drain pan. For best results, slowly pump fork tube and slider at least 10 times. 8. Install fork spring back into fork tube. 9. Place a shop rag on the floor, and turning fork assembly upside down, press end of spring against rag. While compressing spring to prevent rotation of damper tube, remove 6mm screw from end of fork slider. Use air impact wrench for best results. 10. Remove and discard fork spring. 11. Remove and discard damper tube. 12. Remove wear ring and rebound spring. Discard rebound spring. Do not expand or stretch retaining clip to remove from fork tube or clip may become bent or distorted. 13. Using pick tool, remove retaining clip between fork slider and fork tube. 14. Remove fork tube from fork slider. NOTE To overcome any resistance, use the fork tube as a slide hammer, that is, first push fork tube into fork slider and then pull it outward with a moderate amount of force. Repeat this sequence until fork tube separates from fork slider. 15. Slide fork oil seal, slider spacer and slider bushing off end of fork tube. Discard fork oil seal and slider bushing. 16. Remove the lower stop. Right and Left Fork-Assembly Exercise caution to avoid scratching or nicking fork tube. Damaging tube can result in fork oil leaks after assembly. 1. See Service Parts Illustration. Obtain new Damper Tube (Item 7, Part Number 46532-04) from kit. Obtain new Rebound Spring (Item 8, Part Number 46273-02) from kit and install on opposite end. Install wear ring removed in step 12. 2. With the wear ring topside, slide new damper tube into fork tube, so that tube end drops through hole at bottom of fork tube. Install lower stop at end of damper tube. 3. Install fork slider in fork tube holder. Slide fork tube into fork slider. 4. If necessary, obtain new slider bushing (14) (Part Number 45940-84, not included). Coat slider bushing ID with clean fork oil. Slide slider bushing down fork tube. 5. Slide slider spacer down fork tube until it contacts slider bushing.

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KAWASAKI TERYX EFI Installation Instructions.

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 08-02-2011

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Basic Tuning Adjustments 1. The following instructions are for basic fuel tuning. Modes 1,2, & 3 are allowing adjustments to increase and decrease the amount of fuel the engine needs. Modes 4 & 5 are for advanced tuning only. DO NOT change modes 4 & 5 when doing basic tuning! 2. To help understand how these modes work, you can think of them as if you were working with a carburetor. 3. Remember each time you push the MODE button you will be advancing to the next mode. Push the MODE button once and you are now in mode 1, push the MODE button again and you are now in mode 2 and so on. You only need to be concerned with modes 1, 2 & 3 for basic tuning. Modes 4 & 5 are for advanced tuning ONLY. 4. If you need to go back to the settings that were pre programmed when you purchased the controller, just look at the picture in each mode, the colored square represents where the settings were when you purchased the controller. 5. Looking at the controller you will see eight lights with numbers under them, this is what you need to look at when changing settings. The #1 light on the controller represents the leanest setting. TRINITY RACING DOES NOT TAKE REPONSIBLITY FOR DAMAGES THAT MAY OCCUR DURING OPERATION OF YOUR VEHICLE UNDER IMPROPER JET SETTINGS. IT IS THE FINAL RESPONSIBLITY OF THE OWNER/RIDER TO ADJUST JETTING TO SPECIFIC RIDING CONDITIONS AND ELEVATION BEFORE RIDING. WARNING! 1.877.FAS TOYS 2.Remove both seats 6. Re-install engine cover and seats. 6. Mode 1 green light represents idle & cruise adjustment (i.e. pilot jet). To adjust this setting push the MODE button once and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. 7. Mode 2 yellow light represents an additional amount of fuel added during acceleration (i.e. needle position). To adjust this setting, push MODE twice and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. 12 34 56 7 8 12 34 56 7 8 8. Mode 3 red light represents more fuel being added during full throttle (i.e. main jet). To adjust this setting push the MODE button three times and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. 9. If you are confident about your tuning skills and feel you need to adjust other parameters, see Advanced Tuning. 12 34 56 7 8 Advanced Tuning Adjustments 1. Advance tuning has two modes in which to adjust. They are called mode 4 and mode 5. In basic tuning, you are changing the amount of fuel that the engine receives, but with advance tuning, you will be changing when the fuel will be available. In each mode you can adjust how soon the fuel delivery occurs. 2. Mode 4 yellow light and blue light represent when the fuel delivery is available during partial throttle acceleration. To adjust this setting, push the MODE button four times and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. Only the yellow light will be changing.

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Yamaha V-Star 1100 Custom and Classic cruisers Floorboard/ Footpeg Extension Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 09-11-2010

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Start on the right (brake) side. 1) Loosen the nut at the end of the brake rod. This will allow you to unscrew the brake rod from the brake lever clevis later. 2) Pull out the cotter pin and remove the pivot pin. Unscrew the clevis 3) Then using a 14mm socket or box-end wrench, remove the two bolts that hold the brake floorboard/footpeg assembly (whichever your bike has) to the frame. These bolts are torqued to 46 ft lbs, so this may be a bit difficult. 1. Loosen this nut 2. Remove the cotter pin (other side of this pivot pin) remove the pivot pin a unscrew the nut to remove the clevis nd 3. Remove these bolts When you remove the floorboard/footpeg bracket, be careful not to pull the brake switch wires loose. You may wish to cut the cable tie for more room, and then rest the bracket, with the footpeg or floorboard attached, on a short box, or block of wood, to keep it handy. Install the new brake rod, to the end of the existing brake rod. Re-install the pivot pin, and the pivot pin cotter pin. Installing the extension bar: Note that the extension bar is bolted so that it rises up in front. Use the new bolts to mount the floorboard/ footpeg bracket to the threaded holes in front. Install the Extension in the proper orientation (angled holes bolt up to the frame, with front of the bar higher than the rear – see photo) using the stock bolts for the extensions to the frame and the new bolts and washers supplied with the kit, on the forward threaded section to relocate the floorboard or footpeg bracket. The use of LocTite ® Blue here is recommended. At this point the right side Floorboard or Footpeg should be secured tightly and the brake lever hanging loose. Now install the Brake rod extension, threading the male end to the original brake rod. Don’t tighten this end yet Place the clevis over the forward most end of the brake rod extension, and threat the clevis nut onto the end of the rod. Bring the brake rod upright, to meet with the clevis at the end of the brake rod extension and replace the pivot pin. Before reinstalling the cotter pin, check the angle of the brake lever, to insure that you have the brake pedal where you want. If necessary, adjust the extension rod in or out, until you are satisfied, and then reinstall the cotter pin into the pivot pin. Check the Brake switch wire and install a new cable tie if required. Note: Due to utilizing a thicker material, 1/2″ versus 3/8″ from our competitor, the Brake rod is now positioned at a greater angle. Even with the angle, braking performance is not affected, but if you wish to bring the master cylinder in line with the brake rod, do this. Loosen the rear, and remove the front Allen bolt. Then place two washers behind the front bolt, under the bracket, and then re-install the bolts To change the angle of the brake rod, 1) loosen and remove the two master cylinder bracket Allen bolts 2) insert two washers behind the front bolt (front of the bike), behind the master cylinder bracket 3) tighten both bolts. Do not install any washers on the rear mounting hole. This will make the angle of the Brake Rod less aggressive. Step Two – Left Side For the left (Shifter) side, 1) use an open-end 10 mm wrench, to unscrew the two nuts that hold the shift rod in place. PLEASE note that one end of the shift rod has a left hand threaded nut. SAVE the nuts, as you will need them on the new longer Polished Stainless Steel Shift Rod. 2) Remove the stock shift rod. 3) Then using a 14mm socket or box-end wrench, remove the two bolts that hold the shifter floorboard/footpeg assembly (whichever your bike has) to the frame.

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Honda GL1000/1100 starter motor Removal/ Over haul Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 08-04-2011

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1. Remove the three long bolts that hold the sections together and separate them. Be careful as there are a series of flat thrust washers on each end of the armature (located in the middle section). 2. The end cap basically performs no function other than to cover the brush plate and commutator area as well as center the armature shaft in a pressed in bushing located in the end of the cap. 3. The drive end contains the reduction gearing and if need be, can be disassembled to replace the bearing. This is extremely unlikely. The shaft should turn freely and normally only requires a cleaning and grease application. If the bearing in fact needs replacing, simply remove the “C” clips on either end, drive out the bearing and reinstall with an appropriate size replacement. Any decent auto parts / industrial supply should be able to supply the correct bearing. 4. Remove the brush plate from the end of the center section by removing the screw at the one brush connection. Before removing the brushes, note that one of them has an insulating sleeve over the braided wire. The replacement must go in the same brush holder. Remove the brushes and replace if necessary and clean the brush plate. ** Brake Cleaner is a good general cleaner for this entire job. 5. Remove the thrust washers from brush plate end of the armature. Count them and ensure they go back on the correct way. 6. The end of the center section that had the drive end on it has a circular plate covering it with a short splined shaft protruding through the plate. Drive the plate out by tapping the opposite end of the section on the shaft – just lightly with a rubber hammer or piece of wood to protect the shaft. Once the plate is out, remove the armature from the section. You will find more thrust washers at this end. Make sure they go back on correctly. 7. In the center of the center section there are four large Philips screws. These hold in the field coils found within the housing. Using an “impact driver”, loosen the four screws that go around the circumference of the center section and remove them. Remove the 10mm nut for the battery connection and the accompanying fiber insulating washers. With the screws and nut removed, the entire field coil assembly should withdraw entirely from the housing. There will be four (4) metal plates that the screws mounted into come falling out. They are easily replaced into the field coils when you slide it back into the housing. Do not be alarmed that you suddenly have four loose metal parts. 8. With everything out of the housing, thoroughly clean everything using the Brake Cleaner. Although the cleaner will dry without leaving a film, it is suggested that the components be dried with compressed air. 9. Get some extremely fine steel wool (“000″ of even “0000″ is better) and gently clean the metal surfaces or bars of the armature and the commutator. Blow with compressed air. 10. Using a volt/ohmeter, test for continuity between pairs of armature bars (the long ones). There should be continuity between the pairs around the entire circumference.

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Ural carburetors Installation and idle adjustment

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Filed Under (Ural) by admin on 02-11-2010

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1. First you must adjust the idle. It is acceptable per the manual to adjust the idle by using the idle adjust screws (11). This usually involves screwing them then backing out 1 to 1.5 turns. Or you can adjust looking at the sliders 2. If installing the carburetors: a. Remove the cover (2) b. Reomve the slider (3) c. Place the throttle cable through the guide (18) with the spring (4) on the cable. d. Route the cable through the slide catch (6) e. Insert the slide assembly into the chamber and make sure it easily slides up and down. Direct the needle (8) into the opening of the diffuser (angled side visible). f. Screw assembly together and verify via throttle movement that slide moves freely. Attach fuel delivery lines to (12). 3. Using the idle set screw (11) raise the slider so the lower edge is 1-2 mm. 4. Assemble to engine using the proper gaskets (paper – felt – paper). 5. Using the locknut (26) adjust the free play of the throttle cable (2-3 mm) 6. Adjust the idle mixture screw – turn in completely then out 1 to 1.5 turns 1. Remove one of the spark plug caps, and with the cap shorted, adjust (11) to decrease RPM’s to a point of being minimally steady. 2. Adjust the mixture (15) out until RPM’s decrease. Turn in until RPM’s increase slightly. Then turn in screws ¼ to 1/3 revoultion. 3. Do the same for the second carburetor with the first spark plug cap shorted. 4. With both cylinders, adjust each idle (11) on each carburetor the same amount each until it’s at a steady, minimal RPM. Use small changes. (at this point you can use your airflow tool to check). 5. Sharply increase, then decrease throttle. Then engine must return to low RPMs smoothly. If the engine goes below limits, readjust (11) from step 4. Synchronization of the K68 Note: Rather than using the opposite cylinder shorted to test the pull of the live cylinder carburetor, you can use something like a Twinmax connected to the test ports (27 Fig 1). Or, if you have a model without these ports, use a Synchrometer (Appendix 2) held against the face of the carburetor. These tools merely show airflow passing through each carburetor (which is dependent on the position and wear on the slide). If using these tools, it’s not necessary to do the following steps. You wil want to use a throttle guide (Appendix 1), to show airflow at various throttle settings. Using the flow meter of your choice make sure each carburetor is the same at the various throttle settings. 1. Place the motorcycle on the center stand ensuring the rear wheel is suspended 2. Make sure you have large area to work with (safety issues here) 3. Shift into the highest gear with the engine running 4. Short one spark plug cap to the cylinder (using a nail or something in the fins) 5. Increase the speed to 40-50 km/hr 6. Fix the throttle using the throttle (maybe using a throttle stop screw under the throttle housing). 7. Reconnect other cylinder and using the opposite carburetor determine the speed which should be the same as the first. 8. Adjust the position of this slide to achieve the referenced speed using the locknut at the top of the carburetor.

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Indian Rocker Arm End Play Rear Cylinder/ Front Cylinder Installation

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Filed Under (Indian) by admin on 12-11-2010

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Rear Cylinder 1Rotate the engine so that the rear piston is at Top Dead Center (TDC), compression stroke, so no load is on the valves. 2Using a 3/16″ allen wrench, remove the four screws securing the rear cylinder rocker cover. 3Remove the cover and inspect both O-ring seals. Discard if damaged or worn. 4Push both rocker arms towards the valve end support bracket (A) and using a feeler gauge check the gap between the rocker arms and the pushrod end support bracket (B). NOTE: The Rocker arm end play specification should be between 0.003″ to 0.012″. 5 Compare the measurement to the specification an determine whether adjustment is necessary. If the end play is within specification, adjustment will not be required. Refit the rocker cover (instructions 14 to 15) and carry out the same inspection on the front cylinder . If the measurement is outside the specification, adjustment will be required and shimming will be necessary (follow the remainder of these instructions). Adjustment 6Using a 1/4″ allen wrench remove the 4 screws securing the rocker shaft assembly.Refit the LH support bracket and reposition the complete assembly on the rocker base. Make sure that the three dowels are in place and the slots in the rocker shafts are properly aligned with the mounting screw holes in the RH support bracket. 11Clean the threads of the 4 support bracket screws and apply Blue Loctite to the first 4 threads. 12Fit the 1-3/4″ screws into the LH support bracket (A) and the 2″ screws to the RH bracket (B). Torque all screws in cross pattern to 16-20 foot-pounds. CAUTION: The rear piston must be at TDC, compression stroke, when tightening the support bracket screws. 13Re-check the rocker end play to ensure it is within specifica- tion. 13Lubricate the two O-rings with clean engine oil and refit them in the grooves in the rocker base. 14Refit the rocker cover.

Triumph Center Mount Oil Pressure Gauge with active oil light Installation

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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Remove the two hex head screws and spacers that secure the handlebars. Attach the oil pressure mounting bracket using the bolts removed earlier. It is not necessary to use the spacers as the bracket is the same thickness as the spacers that were removed. Make sure the oil pressure gauge bracket is clamped securely so that the handlebars cannot rotate. This part of the assembly is complete. Do not tighten the fitting mounted on the far side of the Swivel body. This fitting is designed to rotate and is sealed in place with Loctite 242 thread sealant. Over tightening will shear the threads resulting in destruction of the fitting. Remove oil pressure sending unit. Sit the copper crush washer aside for future use. The Swivel and Swivel Adaptor are supplied assembled. Remove the plug from the rear of the Swivel. Slip the crush washer removed earlier over the end of the Adaptor. There is an ‘O’-ring seal between the Adaptor and the Swivel, leaving the two assembled will prevent damage to the seal. Thread the Adaptor, with Swivel still attached, into the port from where the original sending unit was removed. With the use of a 5/32″ Allan wrench, reach inside the Swivel and tighten the Swivel against the Adaptor. Install the original oil pressure sending unit in the top port as shown using the new copper crush washer supplied. Use a wrench on both the Swivel and the original oil pressure sending unit to prevent imparting stress on the Adaptor to Swivel junction. Reinstall the 1/8 NPT plug in the end of the Swivel using with the use of a 3/16″ Allan wrench. Use Loctite 242 or equivalent semi-permanent thread sealant at this junction. Do not over tighten. Use a 3/16″ Allan wrench on the plug and an open end wrench on the Swivel to prevent imparting stress on the Adaptor to Swivel junction. Next, attach one end of the oil pressure line to the swivel fitting (located far side) by pushing the end of the tubing into the hole at the end of the fitting. FYI: these fittings are quick disconnect and self-clinching. They need only to be pushed in to connect. They will not slip out unless the ferrule at the end of the fitting is pushed back away from the tubing as the tubing is pulled from the fitting. Routing: Next, route the other end of the tube up along the frame and in front of the steering head over to the fitting in the gauge body. Avoid the exhaust pipes when routing the tubing. Push the end of the tube into the gauge fitting as was done at the swivel fitting at the other end of the tube. The tubing can be removed and cut to the length required by your routing. Make sure there is enough service loop remaining so

Kawasaki FI Calibration Tool Instruction Manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 08-02-2011

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System Function Kawasaki FI Calibration Tool (FI Tool) is developed to modify the mapping of the racing machine to gain operating conditions suitable for the course and the rider’s skill. The following are the available setting functions. Table 1 FI Tool Function Model Name Functions Available Setting Range ’04 ZX-10R ’05 ZX-6RR ’05 ZX-10R ’06 ZX-10R ’07 ZX-6R 1) Adjust the injected fuel rate at acceleration -30 % ~ +30 % 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 2) Adjust the injected fuel rate of No.1 and No.4 cylinder -30 % ~ +30 % 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 3) Adjust the injected fuel rate of No.2 and No.3 cylinder -30 % ~ +30 % 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 4) Adjust the injected fuel rate of primary and secondary injector * -30 % ~ +30 % -10 % ~ +10 % — – — 〇 — – — – — 〇 5) Adjust the ignition timing -15°CA~ +5°CA 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 6) Adjust the sub-throttle opening angle -50 % ~ +50 % -45 % ~ +45 % 〇 — – 〇 〇 — 〇 — – 〇 7) Adjust the exhaust device opening angle -50 % ~ +50 % 〇 — 〇 〇 — 8) Adjust the all injected fuel rates of all cylinders and operating are a simultaneously -30 % ~ +30 % 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 9) Adjust the value of engine over revolution limiter 0 ~ +300 rpm -1000 ~ +700rpm -1000 ~+1200rpm — – — 〇 — – — 〇 — – — 〇 〇 — – 10) Set the fuel cut or not at deceleration Use or Not Use 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 11) Set the sub throttle controlled or not Controlled or Full Open Fixed 〇 — – — – 12) Set the exhaust device controlled or not Controlled or Full Open Fixed 〇 〇 〇 〇 〇 13) Set the Auto Shifter Ignition Cut Length Controlled or not, set Ig. Cut Time by gear range — – 〇 〇 〇 14) Set the Pit Road RPM Limit Controlled or not, set Upper Limit RPM by gear range

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