how to adjust linkage 2007 yamaha 90 ttr

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V-Star 1100 Floorboard/ Foot peg Extension Kit Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 08-11-2010

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1. Take notice of the position of the shift peg positions relative to the floorboard or foot-peg. You will be adjusting it back to these locations upon installation of the extended linkage. 2. Loosen the shifter rod jam nuts and remove the OEM shift linkage. 3. Loosen the floorboard/foot-peg assembly by removing the mounting bolts (14mm wrench) 4. Install the Extension Bracket using the OEM bolts and torque to 46 ft. lbs. Figure 1 shows how to orient the bracket relative to the front of the motorcycle. 5. Mount the floorboard/foot-peg assembly to the Extension Bracket using the SS hardware provided and torque to 46 ft. lbs. It is always a good idea to apply thread-locking compound such as lock- tite to ensure that the hardware does not vibrate loose while riding. 6. Remove the jam nuts from the OEM shift linkage and thread them gently on to the new shift linkage. 7. Install the new shift linkage by aligning the control swivel and the shifter swivel and turning the linkage. Be careful not to cross thread the linkage. The linkage will thread into both swivels simultaneously. Adjust to the desired position and tighten the jam nuts that you removed from the OEM linkage. Do not over-tighten or damage will occur to the threads. Right Side Installation: 1. Take notice of the Brake pedal position relative to the floorboard/foot-peg before removal, as it will need to be readjusted upon installation of the kit. 2. Remove the cotter pin from the brake linkage and remove the clevis pin. The brake linkage will now be separate from the brake pedal assembly. Do not discard anything. 3. Loosen the floorboard/foot-peg assembly by removing the mounting bolts (14mm wrench) 4. Install the Extension Bracket using the OEM bolts and torque to 46 ft. lbs. Figure 1 shows how to orient the bracket relative to the front of the motorcycle. 5. Mount the floorboard/foot-peg assembly to the Extension Bracket using the SS hardware provided and torque to 46 ft. lbs. It is always a good idea to apply thread-locking compound such as lock- tite to ensure that the hardware does not vibrate loose while riding. 6. Loosen the jam nut from the brake linkage and remove the linkage bracket. 7. Assemble the threaded brake linkage extension to the coupling nut and tighten using one of the provided jam nuts. Don’t forget the thread locking compound if your using it. 8. Thread the coupling onto the brake cylinder linkage and install the other end of the assembly into the brake pedal end. Tighten the jam nuts. You should be able to adjust the linkage for proper brake pedal location before tightening the jam nuts. 9. Readjust the brake light switch and your ready to roll

Adjusting the Pekar K68 for Dnepr or Ural

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 11-11-2010

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1. Make sure the ignition timing is correct 2. Adjust the valves as necessary to ensure proper operation 3. Run the engine to warm it up a bit 4. Adjust the float setting. To do this, remove the carburetors (leave the throttle cables attached), remove the bowl and turn the carburetor upside down (fuel will spill). The float should look like this: Adjust as necessary by bending the float support (#37 in Figure 1). Reinstall Installation and idle adjustment 1. First you must adjust the idle. It is acceptable per the manual to adjust the idle by using the idle adjust screws (11). This usually involves screwing them then backing out 1 to 1.5 turns. Or you can adjust looking at the sliders 2. If installing the carburetors: a. Remove the cover (2) b. Reomve the slider (3) c. Place the throttle cable through the guide (18) with the spring (4) on the cable. d. Route the cable through the slide catch (6) e. Insert the slide assembly into the chamber and make sure it easily slides up and down. Direct the needle (8) into the opening of the diffuser (angled side visible). f. Screw assembly together and verify via throttle movement that slide moves freely. Attach fuel delivery lines to (12). 3. Using the idle set screw (11) raise the slider so the lower edge is 1-2 mm. 4. Assemble to engine using the proper gaskets (paper – felt – paper). 5. Using the locknut (26) adjust the free play of the throttle cable (2-3 mm) 6. Adjust the idle mixture screw – turn in completely then out 1 to 1.5 turns. * Starting using the K68′s (cold weather) 1. Verify fuel flow. Apply choke (pull 52 in Fig1). 2. Using the ticklers (13) allow fuel to enter the bowl until fuel drains from (14) 3. With the ignition off, kick 1 or 2 times 4. Turn ignition on, and as soon as engine is warmed up (maybe sooner) push choke mechanisms to open choke Idle Adjustment (engine running and warm) 1. Remove one of the spark plug caps, and with the cap shorted, adjust (11) to decrease RPM’s to a point of being minimally steady. 2. Adjust the mixture (15) out until RPM’s decrease. Turn in until RPM’s increase slightly. Then turn in screws ¼ to 1/3 revoultion. 3. Do the same for the second carburetor with the first spark plug cap shorted. 4. With both cylinders, adjust each idle (11) on each carburetor the same amount each until it’s at a steady, minimal RPM. Use small changes. (at this point you can use your airflow tool to check). 5. Sharply increase, then decrease throttle. Then engine must return to low RPMs smoothly. If the engine goes below limits, readjust (11) from step 4. Synchronization of the K68 Note: Rather than using the opposite cylinder shorted to test the pull of the live cylinder carburetor, you can use something like a Twinmax connected to the test ports (27 Fig 1). Or, if you have a model without these ports, use a Synchrometer (Appendix 2) held against the face of the carburetor. These tools merely show airflow passing through each carburetor (which is dependent on the position and wear on the slide). If using these tools, it’s not necessary to do the following steps. You wil want to use a throttle guide (Appendix 1), to show airflow at various throttle settings. Using the flow meter of your choice make sure each carburetor is the same at the various throttle settings. 1. Place the motorcycle on the center stand ensuring the rear wheel is suspended 2. Make sure you have large area to work with (safety issues here) 3. Shift into the highest gear with the engine running 4. Short one spark plug cap to the cylinder (using a nail or something in the fins) 5. Increase the speed to 40-50 km/hr 6. Fix the throttle using the throttle (maybe using a throttle stop screw under the throttle housing). 7. Reconnect other cylinder and using the opposite carburetor determine the speed which should be the same as the first. 8. Adjust the position of this slide to achieve the referenced speed using the locknut at the top of the carburetor.

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YAMAHA TTR 125 SHOCKS REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 08-01-2012

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1. With the bike unloaded on the side stand and the shock fully extended, have an assistant measure from a point at the axle (center point) to a point on the frame, fender or bodywork directly above it. Record this measurement. 2. With the bike off the stand and the rider in the seat, bounce on the suspension and let the bike settle. Have the assistant measure from the same two points. Subtract the second measurement from the first. 3. The amount of settle, or “sag” is a function of the wheel travel. It should only be between 1/4 and 1/3 of the total travel. 4. If the difference is less than the minimum, reduce the spring preload. Measure the distance again starting with Step 2. Adjust again if necessary. 5. If the difference is more than the maximum, increase the spring preload. Measure the distance again starting with Step 2. Adjust again if necessary. Note: If the ride height is too low, the shock will bottom unnecessarily, resulting in a harsh ride. If the ride height is too high, the shock will “top out” too easily when rebounding from a bump or under hard deceleration. NITROGEN PRESSURES IN EMULSION SHOCKS CAUTION: The pressure in these shocks cannot successfully be checked. Concerns with the gauge volume and the gas volume in the shock body create a situation where you cannot accurately determine what pressure was in the shock. In addition when the pressure is lowered (i.e. checking the pressure) the gas and some of the shock oil escapes into the gauge. It is possible to lose a large percentage of the shock oil by depressing the core of a charged shock to the atmosphere. Please note that in order to check the pressure, some of the gas must escape and fill the gauge assembly. The volume of the gas pocket is about half the size of your thumb, so a very small volume change results in a large pressure drop. Because the gauges’ volumes vary, it is not possible to deduce the actual pressure in the shock prior to attaching the gauge. Therefore it is imperative that any attempt to check pressure be accompanied by the capability of refilling the shock. In other words: If you don’t have a nitrogen source handy, don’t check the pressure

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HARLEY DAVIDSON SOFTAIL FRONT SPOILER KITS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 09-03-2011

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This instruction sheet references Service Manual information. A Service Manual for your model motorcycle is required for this installation and is available from a Harley-Davidson Dealer. Kit Contents See Figure 2 and Table 1. INSTALLATION 1. Position the vehicle on a motorcycle lift table. To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, remove maxi-fuse before proceeding. (00251a) 2. Refer to the Service Manual and follow the instructions given to remove the Maxi® Fuse. 3. Raise the vehicle on the lift table to allow access to the lower front portion of the frame. 2008+ 2007 7 8 11 3 3 4 4 12 5 5 1 1 9 2 2 10 6 6 9 9 11 13 is02652c 8. 1. Two-pin voltage regulator connector (2007 only) Voltage regulator 2. 9. Voltage regulator attaching screws (2) Cable strap (2 for 2007, 1 for 2008 and later) 10. 3. Lower voltage regulator cover (2007 only) Voltage regulator bracket 4. 11. Bracket screw to engine crankcase (2) Oxygen sensor connector 12. 5. Crank position sensor connector (2007 only) Voltage regulator caddy 6. 13. Voltage regulator caddy cover Horn connectors (some 2008 and later models) 7. Four-pin voltage regulator connector (2007 only) Figure 1. Original Equipment Voltage Regulator  NOTE For 2007 models: The ground wire on the voltage regulator must be re-attached at the original location when re-installing the voltage regulator to ensure adequate ground. 4. For ALL models: See Figure 1. Remove and discard the voltage regulator caddy cover (6) from the regulator bracket (3) and caddy (5). For 2007 models: In addition, remove the lower voltage regulator cover (10). 5. Remove and retain the hex socket head screw (4) at the top left of the bracket For 2007 models: In addition, disconnect the ground wire. Free the cable straps (9) from the regulator bracket, beneath the regulator. 6. Remove the two hex socket head screws with washers (2) retaining the voltage regulator to the bracket. Remove and save the regulator, but discard the screws. 7. Remove and retain the screw (4) at the top right of the regulator bracket. Remove the bracket from the engine. 8. For 2008 and later models: Free the strap (9) that ties the jiffy stand wiring to the voltage regulator bracket. Unfasten the three-way jiffy stand sensor connector and the two-way crank position sensor connector [79] (12) from the T-studs on the back of the regulator bracket (3). Discard the bracket. Disconnect both plugs from the back of the voltage regulator (1). For 2007 models: Unfasten the four-way (7) and two-way (8) voltage regulator connectors from the T-studs on the back of the regulator bracket (3), and discard the bracket. Disconnect the voltage regulator (1) at both connectors. 9. For 2008 and later models: Unclip the two-way O 2 (oxygen) sensor electrical connector [138] (11) from the voltage regulator caddy (5). For 2007 models: Unfasten the two-way crank position sensor connector [79] (12) from the voltage regulator caddy (5). Remove the caddy from the vehicle frame. a. For 2007 models: Unclamp the bottom of the caddy from the engine mount spacers. b. For ALL models: Unhook the top clips from around the tabs on the front of the engine casting. Remove the original equipment (O.E.) caddy from the vehicle frame, and discard it.

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Yamaha R1 2007-2008 Frame Slider Installation

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 01-01-2012

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Installation Steps: 1. Remove left and right body panels. 2. Remove the left side engine stud. Mount the left side offset using 99-HB-SH10125080 Socket Cap 10 X 1.25 X 80 Main Engine Stud. Tip: Only tighten enough so you can still move the offset by hand. Loosely mount the left side body panel. Adjust the offset so the frame slider when mounted will clear the bodywork. There is also a groove cut in the offset, this is so the body can clear the offset. 3. With the offset in the correct position remove body and torque down to OEM torque specs. 4. Using one drop of blue thread locker mount the left side puck to the offset with 99-HB- SH10150045 Socket Cap 10 X 1.5 X 45 (Holds puck to offset). Torque down to 30 to 32 foot lbs. 5. Remove the right side engine stud. Mount the right side offset using 99-HB-SH10125080 Socket Cap 10 X 1.25 X 80 Main Engine Stud. Tip: Only tighten enough so you can still move the offset by hand. Loosely mount the right side body panel. Adjust the offset so the frame slider when mounted will clear the bodywork. There is also a groove cut in the offset, this is so the body can clear the offset. 6. With the offset in the correct position remove body and torque down to OEM torque specs. 7. Using one drop of blue thread locker mount the right side puck to the offset with 99-HB- SH10150045 Socket Cap 10 X 1.5 X 45 (Holds puck to offset). Torque down to 30 to 32 foot lbs. 8. Mount left and right bodywork

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KAWASAKI TERYX EFI Installation Instructions.

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 08-02-2011

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Basic Tuning Adjustments 1. The following instructions are for basic fuel tuning. Modes 1,2, & 3 are allowing adjustments to increase and decrease the amount of fuel the engine needs. Modes 4 & 5 are for advanced tuning only. DO NOT change modes 4 & 5 when doing basic tuning! 2. To help understand how these modes work, you can think of them as if you were working with a carburetor. 3. Remember each time you push the MODE button you will be advancing to the next mode. Push the MODE button once and you are now in mode 1, push the MODE button again and you are now in mode 2 and so on. You only need to be concerned with modes 1, 2 & 3 for basic tuning. Modes 4 & 5 are for advanced tuning ONLY. 4. If you need to go back to the settings that were pre programmed when you purchased the controller, just look at the picture in each mode, the colored square represents where the settings were when you purchased the controller. 5. Looking at the controller you will see eight lights with numbers under them, this is what you need to look at when changing settings. The #1 light on the controller represents the leanest setting. TRINITY RACING DOES NOT TAKE REPONSIBLITY FOR DAMAGES THAT MAY OCCUR DURING OPERATION OF YOUR VEHICLE UNDER IMPROPER JET SETTINGS. IT IS THE FINAL RESPONSIBLITY OF THE OWNER/RIDER TO ADJUST JETTING TO SPECIFIC RIDING CONDITIONS AND ELEVATION BEFORE RIDING. WARNING! 1.877.FAS TOYS 2.Remove both seats 6. Re-install engine cover and seats. 6. Mode 1 green light represents idle & cruise adjustment (i.e. pilot jet). To adjust this setting push the MODE button once and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. 7. Mode 2 yellow light represents an additional amount of fuel added during acceleration (i.e. needle position). To adjust this setting, push MODE twice and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. 12 34 56 7 8 12 34 56 7 8 8. Mode 3 red light represents more fuel being added during full throttle (i.e. main jet). To adjust this setting push the MODE button three times and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. 9. If you are confident about your tuning skills and feel you need to adjust other parameters, see Advanced Tuning. 12 34 56 7 8 Advanced Tuning Adjustments 1. Advance tuning has two modes in which to adjust. They are called mode 4 and mode 5. In basic tuning, you are changing the amount of fuel that the engine receives, but with advance tuning, you will be changing when the fuel will be available. In each mode you can adjust how soon the fuel delivery occurs. 2. Mode 4 yellow light and blue light represent when the fuel delivery is available during partial throttle acceleration. To adjust this setting, push the MODE button four times and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. Only the yellow light will be changing.

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YAMAHA MOTOR CORPORATION, U.S.A. STREET & ENDURO MOTORCYCLE LIMITED WARRANTY

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 27-12-2011

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GENERALEXCLUSIONS from this warranty shall include any failures caused by: a. Competition or racing use. b. Installation of parts or accessories that are not qualitatively equivalent to genuine Yamaha parts. c. Abnormal strain, neglect, or abuse. d. Lack of proper maintenance. e. Accident or collision damage. f. Modification to original parts. g. Damage due to improper transportation. SPECIFIC EXCLUSIONS from this warranty shall include parts replaced due to normal wear or routine maintenance. THE CUSTOMER’S RESPONSIBILITY under this warranty shall be to: 1. Operate and maintain the motorcycle as specified in the appropriate Owner’s Manual. 2. Give notice to an authorized Yamaha motorcycle dealer of any and all apparent defects within ten (10) days after discovery, and make the machine available at that time for inspection and repairs at such dealer’s place of business. You may locate your nearest authorized Yamaha dealer through your local telephone directory. WARRANTY TRANSFER: To transfer any remaining warranty from the original purchaser to any subsequent purchaser, it is imperative that the machine be inspected and registered for warranty by an authorized Yamaha motorcycle dealer. In order for this warranty to remain in effect, this inspection and registration must take place within ten (10) days after transfer. Areasonable dealer imposed fee may be charged for the inspection. In no case will warranty be extended beyond the original period. EMISSIONS CONTROLSYSTEM WARRANTY Yamaha Motor Corporation, U.S.A. also warrants to the ultimate purchaser and each subsequent purchaser of each Yamaha motorcycle covered by this warranty with a displacement of 50cc or greater, that the vehicle is designed, built, and equipped so as to conform at the time of sale with all U.S. emissions standards applicable at the time of manufacture and that it is free from defects in materials and workmanship which would cause it not to meet these standards within the periods listed immediately below. Failures other than those resulting from defects in material or workmanship which arise solely as a result of owner abuse and/or lack of proper maintenance are not covered by this warranty.

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Yamaha TTR 250 Dual Sport Kit Installation

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 31-12-2011

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1. Get a degree in Mechanical and Electrical Engineering. (Just kidding!) 2. Remove the seat, side panels, and gas tank. If you are color blind or even think you might be a little color blind, now is the time to get someone to assist you. Successful installation of the kit requires good color recognition. You want to go riding this weekend, don’t you? Photo 1 3. Unplug the yellow, blue and black taillight wires from the stock wiring harness (Photo 1). 4. Unplug the headlight from the stock wiring harness and remove. 3 Photo 2 5. Remove the headlight on/off switch. Unplug the red two pin connector with yellow and brown wires (Photo 2) from its mate that was under the fuel tank. 6. Clip the zip tie holding the headlight leads to the fork tube, coil it up and secure it to the frame in front of the voltage regulator as shown in Photos 3 and 4. Remove bracket shown in Photo 3. 4 Headlight Leads Remove this bracket Photo 3 Coil up wires and secure with a zip tie Photo 4 7. Rear Turn Signal Installation: Turn signal mounting requires that you drill a 3/8 inch hole in either side of the rear fender near where it meets the side panels. You can achieve a clean, durable installation using this mounting location. Mount the rear turn signals by drilling a 3/8 hole in the rear fender in the location shown in Photo 5 and Photo 6. Use the templates provided at the back of this instruction manual to determine the hole locations. Note that you will also be drilling a 3/16 hole on each side as well. You may find it easier to remove the fender to drill and attach the turn signals rather than performing this modification while the fender is on the bike

TRIUMPH ROCKET III HEEL / TOE SHIFTER INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Loosen the 10mm nuts at the ends of the shifter linkage rod (notice one end is a left hand thread). Remove the 10mm nut from the shifter arm & disengage the linkage. Remove the shifter pivot bolt using a 8mm hex key wrench. Remove the washer on the threaded side of the shifter pivot bolt. 2. Place one of the wave washers supplied onto the pivot bolt. Place a small amount of grease on the shifter pivot bolt shank and the Heel / Toe shifter pivot hole, insert the pivot bolt into the pivot hole of the toe heel shifter. Use a drop of blue loctite on the shifter pivot bolt threads and install the Heel / Toe shifter, tighten the pivot bolt securely. Check to see that the shifter pivots freely. If the side play is excessive (this is a result of variances in manufacturing tolerances of the stock and supplied components) remove the pivot bolt and install the second wave washer supplied. 3. Unscrew the linkage rod and replace it with the longer rod supplied (NOTE the rod has a left hand thread on one end and right hand threads on the other). Insert the shifter linkage stud into the desired hole in the new shifter being sure the flats on the stud engage the slot on the backside of the bolthole. Install the nut and finger-tighten only at this time. 4. While seated on the motorcycle first find the height setting you prefer for the toe shifter. Using one of the three boltholes for the linkage can set this. You can also gain some adjustment by exposing more or less threads of the new longer shifter linkage rod; however be sue that you have a minimum of 4-5 threads still engaged in the linkage ends. After setting the height, tighten all three 10mm nuts (the two at the ends of the linkage rod and the one which attaches the linkage to the toe/heel shifter) securely. After you have the toe shifter adjusted to your liking you can select the heel shifter height by moving the button head cap screw that secures the toe shifter to the heel shifter (Using a 5/32″ hex key wrench) next to the 10mm linkage nut to any of its three holes

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All 2002 – 2007 Toyota & 2004 – 2007 Scion Models REPAIR MANUAL SUPPLEMENT VEHICLE PULLING TO ONE SIDE

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 23-05-2011

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Relationship Between Tire Characteristics and Vehicle Pulling to One Side When radial tires are rotating, they have the characteristic of generating force in the lateral direction between the tire and the road surface. This lateral force is comprised of two factors: S Ply-steer, which changes direction according to the rotation direction of the tires.
S Conicity, which is generated in a fixed direction regardless of the tire rotation direction. If these lateral forces are too strong, vehicle pulling will occur. A. Ply-Steer Lateral force due to ply-steer is produced by the construction of the belts inside the tire tread. With radial tires, the wire of the belt is slanted as shown in the illustration below. Thus, it is in the lateral direction that tire tread easily changes shape (stretches), and lateral force is generated between the tire and the road surface in the lateral direction.