how to adjust primary chain oiler on a 1955 pan head

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MOTORCYCLE ROLLER CHAIN Maintenance and Lubrication

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 27-11-2010

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Cleaning and Relubrication Perhaps the largest contributor to shortened chain life is inadequate lubrica- tion. All working parts of a chain should be lubricated uniformly. The use of the highest viscosity oil that allows for flow between the link plates and coats pin-bushing areas will normally provide the greatest wear resistance. Apply oil to the upper edges of link plates. This allows for the greatest access of oil to pin-bushing joints. For open drives, excess lubrication on outer chain surfaces should be removed, since it will either be thrown off during operation or serve to collect foreign materials. If foreign objects or surplus lubrication accumulates on chain surfaces to the extent of making re-lubrication of the joints impossible, the chain must be cleaned. Standard roller chains may be cleaned by washing in kerosene or any other good petroleum-based solvent. WARNING: These solvents are flammable. Agitate the chain to assure penetration of the solvent and a thorough flushing of the pin-bushing areas. Drain off excess solvent and inspect bushings and pins for wear. Replace the chain if wear is excessive or parts are fractured or missing. O-ring chains may be cleaned externallyby washing in kerosene. Do not use any other cleaning agent or the O-rings may be damaged. When cleaning O- ring chain, clean only the external areas of the chain. Do not attempt to force kerosene into the pin-bush cavity. Do not try to repair a worn-out chain by replacing individual links. The pitch of the new links will be shorter and will most likely result in chain fatigue failure and/or severe sprocket damage. For chains which are still usable, soak them in SAE 40 or 50 automotive engine oil (without additives). Flexing the chain in oil will assure greater penetration of lubricant. Inspect and clean sprockets. If sprockets are worn or damaged, they should be replaced.Installing new chain on worn out sprockets will significantly shorten the chain’s service life. WARNING: always wear eye protection when assembling or disassembling chain

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Harley-Davidson CHAIN DRIVE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 15-04-2012

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1) Assemble & install the chain tensioner assembly over the primary chain as shown in figure 1. 2) Install the compensator sprocket with extender & spacer (numbers 5, 6, & 7, FIG 2)(#7 is not included in this kit), primary chain, chain tensioner, and clutch basket simultaneously onto the motor drive shaft & transmission main shaft. Rotate the chain drive slightly as needed to allow the splines to line-up. 3) Install the chain tensioner nut loosely on the chain tensioner bolt. 4) Install the sliding cam onto the compensator sprocket, & slide the compensating sprocket cover-assembly (#3) over the cam. 5) Apply 2 drops of Rivera “Red” thread-lock on the threads of the motor drive shaft, & install the motor nut loosely with the fingers at this time. The hex spacer (#7) and spacer (#2) as seen in fig.2 are not provided in Rivera Engineering’s chain drive kit. These components are required with some applications, and can be purchased from your local Harley-Davidson dealer. FIG 2 6) Apply 2 drops of Rivera “red” thread-lock on the threads of the transmission main-shaft and loosely install the clutch hub nut (left hand threads). 7) Place the HD “Primary Drive Locking Tool” HD-41214 on the primary chain as shown in figure XXX and tighten the motor sprocket nut to 150-165 foot-pounds. 8)Turn the locking tool 180 degrees and move it to the clutch sprocket. Tighten the clutch hub nut to 70-80 foot pounds (left- hand thread). Adjust chain tension so that the top strand has 5/8″- to-7/8″ of up and down play (cold drive train). Tighten the center bolt nut to 21-29 foot pounds of torque.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON CHROME INNER PRIMARY HOUSING INSTALLATION INSTRUCTION

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 29-01-2011

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Kit Contents Table 1. Kit Contents Part Number Description (Quantity) Not sold separately Chrome Inner Primary Housing 786A Sealing fastener (5) INSTALLATION NOTES Whenever the sealing fasteners are loosened or removed, they must be replaced. Always replace using Harley-Davidson® Original Equipment sealing fasteners part 786A. Do not use part 786. The primary housing included in this kit installs in the same manner as the stock inner primary housing with the following exception: Use the five sealing fasteners included with this kit. Install and tighten fasteners to the torque specified below. For 2006 Dyna model motorcycles: Remove dowel pins from the chrome inner primary housing before attempting installation. Using a pair of pliers or vice grips, remove the dowel pins by carefully twisting and pulling on the pins. Be careful not to scratch or mar the chrome or sealing surfaces of the chrome inner primary housing. Remove the chain tensioner anchor plate, bolt and screws from the stock inner primary housing after it has been removed, then install it on the chrome inner primary housing. See the appropriate Service Manual for the proper tightening procedure, and torque specifications. 1. See the Drive section of the appropriate Service Manual, and remove the stock inner primary housing. Clean the internal threads in the crankcase and transmission case where the sealing fasteners were removed using a wire brush. Install the chrome inner primary housing as indicated below. Replace the five stock sealing fasteners with the five bolts included in this kit. Put a light coat of primary oil under the head of the sealing fasteners and then tighten to 23-25 ft- lbs (31-34 Nm)

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Yamaha YZ 250F Camshafts REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 30-12-2011

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Remove the 4 bolts that hold the exhaust cam cap in place, lift the cam cap off. It may be necessary to pry very lightly on the cap to lift it off its dowel pins. Do not use the cam lobes as the pry point. Be careful not to drop the dowels and also be careful to not lose the half moon shaped retainer for the bearing under the cam cap. Remove the 6 bolts that hold the intake camshaft cap and lift the cam cap off the camshaft, again, be careful to not drop the retainer or dowels. Lift the intake camshaft out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting. Remove the cam chain from the sprocket, set the stock camshaft aside. Lift the exhaust cam out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting and remove the chain from the sprocket. Do not drop the cam chain, dangle it over the side of the engine while keeping slight upward pressure on the chain to maintain its position on the drive sprocket on the crankshaft. Fit the half moon shaped retainers in the grooves of the Hot Cams camshaft bearings to ensure good fit, set retainers aside for the time. Using assembly lube, lube the shim buckets, bearing surfaces for the camshafts in the cylinder head, and pack some in the camshaft bearings. Set the exhaust cam into the cylinder head casting while at the same time fitting the cam chain over the sprocket. Make sure that you keep all the cam chain slack to the back of the engine. The cam chain pulls the camshaft sprockets in a counter clockwise direction and the slack of the chain must be kept on the cam chain tensioner side of the engine. The exhaust cam has two timing marks on it. When correctly installed one mark will be at the 9 o’clock position and the other mark will be at the 12 o’clock position. When correctly timed the mark at 9 o’clock will be aligned with the valve cover gasket surface. Repeat the above process for the intake camshaft. Again, make sure you keep the chain slack to the cam chain tensioner side of the engine. Check to be sure the crankshaft is still at TDC. The intake cam has two timing marks also. One at 12 o’clock and the other at 3 o’clock. When both cams are installed correctly, the valve cover gasket surface will form a straight line through the exhaust timing mark at 9 o’clock and the intake timing mark at 3 o’clock

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Kawasaki KFX KLX 400 Camshafts Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Remove the plug bolt from the back of the cam chain tensioner assembly. It is under pressure from the spring. Remove the spring and pin. Remove the bolts and tensioner assembly from the cylinder. Release the lock on the tensioner assembly and push the tensioner rod into the assembly so that it is fully retracted. Remove the eight 5mm Allen headed bolts that hold the cam caps in place. Remove the cam caps; be aware of the locating dowels in the caps to keep them from falling into the engine. It may be necessary to pry very lightly on the caps to lift them off their dowel pins. Do not use the cam lobe as the pry point. Lift the intake camshaft out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting. Remove the cam chain from the sprocket, set the stock camshaft aside. Lift the exhaust cam out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting and remove the chain from the sprocket. Do not drop the cam chain; dangle it over the side of the engine while keeping slight upward pressure on the chain to maintain its position on the drive sprocket on the crankshaft. Using assembly lube, lube the shim buckets and bearing surfaces for the camshafts in the cylinder head. Set the exhaust camshaft into the cylinder head casting while at the same time fitting the cam chain over the sprocket. Make sure that you keep all the cam chain slack to the back of the engine. Repeat the above process for the intake camshaft. Again, make sure you keep the chain slack to the cam chain tensioner side of the engine. Check to be sure the crankshaft is still at TDC. Check the location of the cam lobes. The camshafts are marked, and preset to 108-degree centers. If the lobes are not where they should be, adjust the positioning of the camshaft by rotating the sprocket one tooth on the chain. Do this until it is in the correct position as before you removed the camshafts. Check the positioning of the crankshaft for the TDC mark

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Kawasaki 900/1100 Billet Head Installation And REMOVAL Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1) Remove stock head and clean the top surface of the cylinder. 2) Remove the stock water fitting from the stock head and install it in the ADA Racing® billet head in the center cylinder location. Install the 1/8″ npt brass plugs in the 2 outer cylinder locations. 3) Install all o’rings in the ADA Racing® billet head, use small amounts of grease to hold them in place, do not use super glue or silicone. 4) Apply a small amount of grease to the small (OR020) o’ring at the top of the dome. This will allow the dome to easily slip into the head shell. Be careful when turning the head upside down to install onto the cylinder, as the domes can slide out of the head shell. 5) Make sure all the o’rings are in place and place the head on top of the cylinder with the water outlet on the intake side. You must be sure that none of the o’rings slip out of their groove, as this will cause an o’ring to get pinched and a water or compression leak could result. 7) Torque all of the nuts to 15ft/lbs, in a center-out criss-cross pattern. Now, torque them again to 18ft/lbs. 8) After the 1st time out riding the head should be re-torqued. 9) The 2 additional 1/8″ npt holes in the ADA Racing® billet head come with brass plugs, but barbed fittings can be installed for custom water routing applications.

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YAMAHA VIRAGO 700/ 1100 2 into 2 EXHAUST SYSTEM REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 20-12-2010

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REMOVING THE STOCK EXHAUST SYSTEM 1. Loosen the slip joint clamp on the front and rear head pipe, which are located at the muffler box. 2. Remove the two nuts that hold the front head pipe to the engine. Slip the head pipe out of the muffler box and set it aside. Note: Do not remove the rear head pipe, it has been incorporated in the design of the new exhaust system. 3. Remove the muffler box mounting bolt located in front of the passenger foot rest on the left side. 4. Remove two bolts from the right passenger foot rest assembly and set the foot rest aside. 5. Slide the muffler box off of the rear head pipe and set it aside. 6. Replace the muffler box mounting bolt (from step #3) using the washer and nut (supplied) on the back side. INSTALLING YOUR NEW VANCE & HINES EXHAUST SYSTEM 1. Attach the mounting bar to the motorcycle frame behind the right passenger foot rest. Align the two holes in the largest bracket on the mounting bar with the two holes on the frame, be sure the bend in the mounting bar is pointing to the center of the motorcycle. 2. Install the round steel spacer (supplied) to the rear most hole in the bracket. 3. Attach the foot rest using the two 8mm x 1.25 x 25mm bolts (supplied). 4. Slide the new exhaust flange (supplied) onto the front head pipe. 5. Install the two heat shields to the front head pipe using the four hose clamps (supplied). Unscrew all of the hose clamps (supplied) until they are completely loose. Feed the tail end of the hose clamp into the clips on the inside of both heat shields. Place the heat shields onto the front head pipe. Note: Be sure the bend in the heat shield matches the bend in the head pipe exactly. Wrap the hose clamp around the head pipe and give the screw three to four turns, leaving heat shield loose on the head pipe. Repeat this step with the heat shield on the rear head pipe. Note: The screw end of the hose clamp should be accessible, but not visible when pipe is mounted on the bike. 6. Check the stock exhaust gaskets to be sure they are in good shape. If you have any doubts as to their condition, replace them. 7. Slide a chrome pinch clamp (supplied) onto the expanded end of the new rear head pipe. Install a 3/8″ x 1″ bolt with a flat washer on either side of the clamp followed by a lock nut (hardware supplied). Repeat this step on the inlet end of each muffler using the two muffler clamps with 5/16″ x 1 1/4″ bolts (hardware supplied) but leave the clamp loose at this time. 8. Slip the new rear head pipe with the heat shield attached, over the stock rear pipe and gasket, but leave the clamp loose at this time. 9. Install the front head pipe, with the heat shield attached and stock gasket in place, to the front cylinder using the stock nuts, leave them loose at this time

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HARLEY DAVIDSON SADDLEBAG SUPPORT (DRESSER BAR) KIT CHROME INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 18-03-2011

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INSTALLATION To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect negative (-) battery cable before proceeding. (00048a) 1. Refer to the Service Manual and follow the instructions to remove the seat and disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the saddlebags. Refer to SADDLEBAG REMOVAL in the Service Manual. NOTE See Figure 1. Item 12 covers saddlebag side rails, front guard and lower support removal for FLHT/C/CI/CUI, FLTR/I, FLHR/C and FLHR/I/CI models and item 13 cover removal for lower saddlebag support and front guard for FLHR/I/CI models. 3. See Figure 1. Gently pull one side cover (1) from the frame downtubes (no tools are required). 4. Remove the 5/16-18 hex head screws (not shown) and lockwashers (not shown) that secure the muffler to the muffler support (2). Save the muffler mount bracket, rubber mount from the old saddlebag lower support, 5/16-18 hex head screws and lockwashers. 5. With a T-40 TORX® driver, remove and discard the outside 5/16-18 TORX pan head screw (3) and 5/16-18 locknut (4) that secure the lower saddlebag support to the rear bumper and fender support. 6. Remove and discard the inside 5/16-18 locknut (5). Leave in, the inside 5/16-18 TORX pan head screw (6), to keep alignment TORX driver, remove and discard the 3/8- 16 TORX pan heaof the rear bumper rail to the rear bumper and fender support. 7. With a T-40 TORX driver, remove and discard 5/16-18 TORX pan head screws (7) that secure the horizontal side rail saddlebag guards to the fender mounting support. 8. With a T-40 d screw (8) and 3/8-16 locknut (9) that fastens the lower flange of the front saddlebag guard to the motorcycle frame. 9. With a T-40 TORX driver, remove and discard the 3/8- 16 TORX pan head screw (10) that fastens the upper flange of the front saddlebag guard to the frame. Remove the saddlebag guard with the rails and discard. 10. Repeat Steps 3 through 9 for the opposite side. 11. See Figure 2. The new chrome saddlebag supports are side-specific. Take the chrome left (1) (not shown) or right (2) side support from the kit and place it in position on the vehicle frame. Insert a 3/8-16 x 7/8 in long TORX pan head screw (5) and 3/8-16 locknut (6) from the kit through the front flange of the new support and into the vertical frame tube. Do not tighten the screw at this time. 12. Obtain the 5/16-18 x 1in long TORX hex socket screw (3) and 5/16-18 locknut (4) from the kit. Insert screw through the outside hole (A) mounting tab on bumper and fender bracket and also through rear flange in new support and thread locknut onto screw and finger tighten. 13. See Figure 1. Remove old screw (6) from the inside hole of bracket. See Figure 2. From the kit, insert new 5/16-18 screw (4) into the inside hole (B) of bracket and thread locknut (5) on screw. 14. Tighten the front screw, then the rear screws and locknuts to 15-20 ft lbs (20.3-27.1 Nm) . 15. Install the muffler mount bracket and rubber mount saved from Step 4, into the new lower chrome support bracket (8). 16. Secure the muffler to the new chrome support bracket (8) with 5/16-18 hex head screws and 5/16 lockwashers (not shown) saved from Step 4. 17. Tighten the screws and locknuts to 15-20 ft lbs (20.3-27.1 Nm) . 18. Repeat Steps 11 through 16 for the opposite side

Harley-Davidson BAKER COMPENSATING SPROCKET INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 19-04-2012

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1) Remove the primary chain case cover. Refer to your Factory Service Manual for this procedure. 2) Remove the compensating sprocket nut with a 1-1/2″ socket. A ½” impact gun is best for this task. *) Remove the 1-3/16″ clutch nut. This is a left handed nut so loosen it by turning it in the clockwise direction (as viewed from the left side of the motorcycle). 4) With one hand on the compensating sprocket and one on the clutch assembly, remove the primary drive assembly (compensating sprocket, primary chain, tensioner assembly, and clutch as shown in figure a and set it on a clean surface. 5) Flip the adjuster shoe bracket on the chain tensioner assembly. figure b shows the stock orientation of the adjuster show and bracket. Figure C shows the adjuster show bracket flipped 180°. To flip the shoe bracket, remove the two ¼-28×2 bolts that hold the bracket assembly together. This will allow you to separate the chain tensioner assembly components from the primary chain. Flip the bracket around as shown in figure c . PAGE 4 Figure B Figure A BAKER COMPENSATING SPROCKET INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS 6) install the new compensating sprocket, chain, and clutch onto the motor sprocket shaft and the transmission input shaft. The flipped chain tensioner assembly (as shown in figure c ) is not ‘captured’ on the primary chain like the stock configuration. Loosely install the chain tensioner assembly onto the anchor plate bolt. Tighten the compensating sprocket nut to 157+ 7 ft-lbs and the clutch hub nut to 75+ 5 ft-lbs using red Loctite on the threads.

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Harley-Davidson Softail Conversion Kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 02-12-2010

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1. Place the motorcycle on the lift. 2. Place a suitable Jack under the Frame of the Motorcycle and tie down securely. 3. Remove Drain Plug from Primary Cover Assembly and drain oil. 4. Slide Rubber Boot off of the Clutch Cable Adjuster. Loosen and back the Jam nut away from the Clutch Cable Adjuster. Move Clutch Cable Adjuster towards the Jam Nut to introduce free play in the Clutch Lever. 5. Remove the fasteners that secure the seat. Remove seat. 6. Disconnect negative Battery Terminal. 7. Remove the Saddle Bags. And their hardware. If equipped. 8. Loosen Muffler Clamp on both Mufflers and other attaching hardware. Remove and discard both Mufflers. 9. Loosen the 4 exhaust stud nuts and save. Remove and discard head pipes and exhaust gaskets. 10. Disconnect the Rear Lamp Wiring Harness. 11. Remove any fasteners from Electrical Box. 12. Remove and discard Rear Fender, Fender Support and fasteners. NOTE: 2008-Current various models. Remove ECM from Fender and save nuts. 13. Drain all Brake Fluid from the Rear Brake System. 14. Un-clamp Rear Brake Line from the frame and Rear Fork. 15. Remove and discard both Banjo Bolts and Crush Washers from the Rear Brake Caliper and the Rear Brake Master Cylinder. 16. Remove Brake Light Switch from the Brake line, Save for reassembly. 17. Remove the Torx screw from the Brake Line bracket, Save the Torx screw for reassembly. 18. Remove and Discard Brake Line. 19. If Lower Controls option. Remove and Discard right and left floorboards/foot pegs, brake pedal, shifter, and shift linkage. Remove and Discard Passenger Foot pegs or Floorboards and their mounts. Then skip to step 24. 20. If Lower Controls Not purchased. Continue. 21. Remove acorn nut from Shift Linkage. 22. Remove 3 fasteners from Drivers Floorboard and remove. 23. Remove and discard Jiffy Stand. 24. Remove the Primary Cover by first removing the top and rear inspection cover screws. 25. Continue by removing remaining fasteners. 14 total. 26. Remove and discard Primary Cover Gasket. 27. Clean residual gasket material from both surfaces. 28. Loosen the Top Center Nut on the Primary Chain Adjuster. Lower the Primary Chain Adjuster until it rests flat on the Inner Primary Cover. 29. Remove the Clutch Lifter Retaining Ring from the Clutch Basket. Remove Clutch Lifter Assembly. 30. Using the Primary Drive Locking Tool. Loosen the Compensating Sprocket Nut. 31. Using the Primary Drive Locking Tool. Loosen the Clutch Hub Main shaft Nut. WARNING: This nut is LEFT HAND threaded. 32. Remove the Primary Drive Locking Tool, Compensating Sprocket Nut, and Clutch Hub Main shaft Nut. 33. Remove the Sprocket cover and Sliding Cam from the Crank Shaft Extension. 34. Remove the Clutch Assembly, Primary Chain, Compensating Sprocket, and Crank Shaft Extension in one assembly.

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